this is an excellent reference video that will save boat owners ,that make their own repairs, from common mistakes assembling hardware. in your tool box, these items could also be available for the right job; anti-seize compound(there are different types); split locking washers; wave washers; . tip hose clamps have a torque setting (laughing spot here) 7 foot pounds(84 inch pounds) as Over tightening can damage a hose. we use to have a break away torque wrench(air force ). big kudos kevin
Funny you should bring up this episode. It's actually one of my favorites. Nowadays I have four of those blue boxes, one each for electric crimp connectors, metric fasteners, Imperial fasteners, and a final one for swages and misc. I'll probably need another soon. But the point is to keep what you need often in these cases, not everything. Once I get past the blue organizers I have Tupperware style plastic boxes for everything else, which is a lot. I don't kid when I estimate that half of our on-board stowage is hardware and spares. As for hose clamp torque, I do it by feel. But I will mention that you cannot usually get the force you need with only a screwdriver. Small socket wrenches with extensions work best for me.
I use allen head where I can. Also the markup for stainless hardware is very high at hardware or marine stores. I prefer to buy at industrial fastener places. Generally you need to buy a box but the savings can be 400%
Good deal. All boaters should restore a boat at one time or another. It'll give you a new appreciation of how labor intensive it is, as well as instilling the confidence to fix problems of all sizes on the fly.
Yes great, widely applicable info in this video, thanks. Probably going to be doing a (hopefully only partial) restoration on a C-22 or C-25. I've got the skills, do I have the will?
Like what you have done with the Cat 22 and was wondering if you had more videos on the retro fit? I just picked up one myself and it needs most everything do and would have like to see the wire diagram you did on it? Thanks for your ideas. Robert
Great to have you Robert. As you can see from our channel we're moving into a bigger boat soon. We actually just sold our C-22, but boy was she a fun ride! Check out Stingy Sailor Ken at stingysailor.com/
I'm not too sure about TH-cam, but he's documented his projects in an admirable way. Before doing ANY work, check his site. If it's worth doing he's already done it and will have pics of how it was done and which parts he used. He truly is stingy, and the whole affair is about finding the best balance of money and quality. His recommendations on bringing back weathered teak were of immense value to us. For us, the C-22 was a practice boat in terms of learning the skill sets we were going to need when we stepped up to a real boat (we already knew how to sail).
Another great video with some great tips. I am interested in your use of cotter rings in place of cotter pins. Cotter rings are not recomended for securing highly stressed critical componentry such as standing rigging or for use on main sheet blocks etc. . Cotter rings are well documented failure points in these applications. In intances where a poorly installed cotter pin causes injury or damage to sails, lines or clothing, a cotter ring can be damaged or even removed in the same circumstances. A correctly installed (as per aviation standard as there are no "marine standards") cotter pin should not snag. Any perceived snagging can be further mitigated by using a dab of silicon, shrink tubing or tape to the ends of the pin. Yes they are more time consuming to both install and remove and they are single use only but when used correctly they are far superior to cotter rings. Nb. I am a former sailor who hopes to be again in the not too distant future. I have experience boat maintenance and have worked professionally as an AME maintaining and servicing vintage aircraft. And yes I'm subscribing! Love your videos, keep up the good work.
Hi David. Thanks so much for your informed comment. We use cotter rings only on small to medium load fasteners for the reasons you mention. However, there are time when the ability to remove the pin easily outweighs other considerations. For example, I have a couple on our traveler (mainsheet). I have often felt that the boom might be needed to extract a sailor from the water and in this case I want to be able to do so easily and without tools. Conversely, turnbuckles and such receive cotter pins as they must remain in adjustment no matter the situation.
Great video. Just one question. It sounds like you are saying 1808 and 316. I work with stainless piping and the classifications I am familiar with are A108 and A316. I think that would cross over to Marine hardware but I may be wrong.
I think it's 18-8 and 316. See here www.boltdepot.com/Hex_bolts.aspx?nv=l&gclid=Cj0KEQjw-ezKBRCGwqyK0rHzmvkBEiQAu-_-LLbHmahEil79z1MilT1eZo1HPkT0rwByESia4064sg8aAinJ8P8HAQ
this is an excellent reference video that will save boat owners ,that make their own repairs, from common mistakes assembling hardware. in your tool box, these items could also be available for the right job; anti-seize compound(there are different types); split locking washers; wave washers; . tip hose clamps have a torque setting (laughing spot here) 7 foot pounds(84 inch pounds) as Over tightening can damage a hose. we use to have a break away torque wrench(air force ). big kudos kevin
Funny you should bring up this episode. It's actually one of my favorites. Nowadays I have four of those blue boxes, one each for electric crimp connectors, metric fasteners, Imperial fasteners, and a final one for swages and misc. I'll probably need another soon. But the point is to keep what you need often in these cases, not everything. Once I get past the blue organizers I have Tupperware style plastic boxes for everything else, which is a lot. I don't kid when I estimate that half of our on-board stowage is hardware and spares. As for hose clamp torque, I do it by feel. But I will mention that you cannot usually get the force you need with only a screwdriver. Small socket wrenches with extensions work best for me.
I use allen head where I can. Also the markup for stainless hardware is very high at hardware or marine stores. I prefer to buy at industrial fastener places. Generally you need to buy a box but the savings can be 400%
Thanks great tips in there. Appreciate you taking the time!
Yes indeed. The marine tips vid might be dry, but I continue to see people doing small things wrong all the time.
Wow. This is really good info. Thanks for this vid. I am bidding on a 23' Glastron Spirit and hope to begin restoring it soon!
Good deal. All boaters should restore a boat at one time or another. It'll give you a new appreciation of how labor intensive it is, as well as instilling the confidence to fix problems of all sizes on the fly.
Yes great, widely applicable info in this video, thanks. Probably going to be doing a (hopefully only partial) restoration on a C-22 or C-25. I've got the skills, do I have the will?
Like what you have done with the Cat 22 and was wondering if you had more videos on the retro fit? I just picked up one myself and it needs most everything do and would have like to see the wire diagram you did on it? Thanks for your ideas. Robert
Great to have you Robert. As you can see from our channel we're moving into a bigger boat soon. We actually just sold our C-22, but boy was she a fun ride! Check out Stingy Sailor Ken at stingysailor.com/
Thanks for the reply and congrats on your new endeavors. Do they have a TH-cam post were I can see the projects they've done?
I'm not too sure about TH-cam, but he's documented his projects in an admirable way. Before doing ANY work, check his site. If it's worth doing he's already done it and will have pics of how it was done and which parts he used. He truly is stingy, and the whole affair is about finding the best balance of money and quality. His recommendations on bringing back weathered teak were of immense value to us. For us, the C-22 was a practice boat in terms of learning the skill sets we were going to need when we stepped up to a real boat (we already knew how to sail).
Another great video with some great tips. I am interested in your use of cotter rings in place of cotter pins.
Cotter rings are not recomended for securing highly stressed critical componentry such as standing rigging
or for use on main sheet blocks etc. . Cotter rings are well documented failure points in these applications.
In intances where a poorly installed cotter pin causes injury or damage to sails, lines or clothing, a cotter ring
can be damaged or even removed in the same circumstances. A correctly installed (as per aviation standard as there are no "marine standards") cotter pin should not snag. Any perceived snagging can be further mitigated by using a dab of silicon, shrink tubing or tape to the ends of the pin. Yes they are more time consuming to both install and remove and
they are single use only but when used correctly they are far superior to cotter rings. Nb. I am a former sailor who
hopes to be again in the not too distant future. I have experience boat maintenance and have worked professionally as
an AME maintaining and servicing vintage aircraft. And yes I'm subscribing! Love your videos, keep up the good work.
Hi David. Thanks so much for your informed comment. We use cotter rings only on small to medium load fasteners for the reasons you mention. However, there are time when the ability to remove the pin easily outweighs other considerations. For example, I have a couple on our traveler (mainsheet). I have often felt that the boom might be needed to extract a sailor from the water and in this case I want to be able to do so easily and without tools. Conversely, turnbuckles and such receive cotter pins as they must remain in adjustment no matter the situation.
SYT, Thankyou for your clarification. I had not considered the potential need to remove pins while
underway. All the best and enjoy your travels.
Great video. Just one question. It sounds like you are saying 1808 and 316. I work with stainless piping and the classifications I am familiar with are A108 and A316. I think that would cross over to Marine hardware but I may be wrong.
I think it's 18-8 and 316. See here www.boltdepot.com/Hex_bolts.aspx?nv=l&gclid=Cj0KEQjw-ezKBRCGwqyK0rHzmvkBEiQAu-_-LLbHmahEil79z1MilT1eZo1HPkT0rwByESia4064sg8aAinJ8P8HAQ
I bow to your great knowledge. I was wrong. Thank you for clearing up my confusion on this. It will help me greatly in the future.