We hope you found this video helpful! Read More Here: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-diy-replace-bmw-e90-325xi-transfer-case-fluid Shop Parts Used In This Video: BMW DTF1 Transfer Case Fluid (1 Liter) - Genuine BMW 83222409710: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transfer-case-fluid-83220397244? BMW Differential Drain/Fill Plug - OE Supplier 33117525064: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-differential-drain-plug?
I finally get this job done yesterday and would like to share something here: 1. Before draining the fluid, I disconnected the battery just in case. I've heard a lot of people got into trouble after they replaced the transfer case fluid, especially for the vehicles made after 2007. Some people argue that it's important to make sure the car is in "sleeping mode" during the process. So I just disconnected the battery and reconnected it after the job was finished. 2. I scanned the computer with Carly right after the engine was started (no fault code on the dashboard). I saw one fault code (0055C3) in Transmission section, saying that "No DXC desired torque setting". I deleted it and did another test drive and scanned the computer again. This time I got a fault code in ECU 55 (00DE50) which is just an unknown DTC fault. I deleted it and test drive and scanned the computer again and did not see any fault code. 3. I found that it's much easier to remove the 18mm long bolt with some of the 13mm bolts are still on. So the weight can be distributed and not on the 18mm bolt 100%. With the helps of 13mm bolts and a bottle jack under the transfer case, I was able to remove the 18mm bolt just by my hand. But I did reinstall the 18mm bolt in reverse lol. Thanks for the idea. Again, many thanks for this video!
Gareth/FCP team, thanks for the detailed video and explanations, this helped me big time to complete the job. For those of you who are planning on taking this job here is a couple of remarks and tips to make sure you don't get surprises. Vehicle shown in this video has a manual transmission which does not have fluid pan next to the transfer case. If you are performing this job on the vehicle with automatic transmission (AT) make sure you have L shape allen wrench (14mm) which would be the ideal tool to use. In my case I had 1'' driven socket with 14mm allen, but due to the AT oil pan being in the way there was no way to undo the drain plug since the socket with rachet won't fit because of limited room. I ended up using same size allen socket bit (with 3/8" end) which did fit in between the oil pan and the drain plug. I placed 14mm close-end wrench on the inserted allen bit (drain plug is quite shallow so there is still a bit of allen bit sticking out) which did the trick. Another pain was 18mm long bolt. With AT you won't be able to secure the bolt different way like shown in the video. I had to use leverage on the exhaust pipes to get the bolt out and back in again (tip - make sure bracket is jacked up to the right level and meets the screw hole before trying to push in the screw). Other than that it should be pretty similar to what Gareth shows in the video. Hope this will save someone some time.
@@fcpeuro Kudos to Karvas! Thank you so much you are 1000% correct for those who have AT please read Karxas's remarks & tips before monkeying around the transfer case for AT enthusiasts. "Another pain was 18 mm long bolt. With AT you won't be able to secure the bolt different way like shown in the video." - Thanks Karxas
@@albertpimentel8230 Good for DIY and engineering best practice to keep the car without expensive repairs due to metal shavings from the gears and AWD never prematurely gives up.
I managed to get this done without removing the mount (saved so much time took less than an hr in total. What I’ve done: Like a few of people are saying in the comments, I got a 14mm hex socket and pressed the hex bit out of the metal socket. I then fiddled the hex bit on the fill plug first to ensure I can crack it open before draining the fluid. It’s a little tight spot but it’s doable with some fiddling. It was on there super hard so I had to loosen it with a metal bar and a 10mil wrench, then continued to loosen it by a rachet wrench. Let the fluid drain then installed a new drain bolt, pumped fluid into the fill hole until it starts leaking out, then installed a new fill bolt also. Took about 1 litre approx. Make sure your car is jacked up and leveled front and rear so you’ll fill up the right amount of fluid. Overall great video!
18mm mount bolt - I wrestled with it for half an hour, eventually worked it out by twisting the mounting bracket, turning the bolt (with a wrench )pulling the bolt BELOW the exhaust pipe. Changed height of jack support on transfer case a few times too.
thank you for this tip! I went back to TH-cam after struggling with the 18mm bolt for awhile trying to pull it out over the exhaust without success. The rubber bushing on the transfer case was flexible enough once the mounting bracket bolts are removed to wrestle the bolt out from below.
For those who do not want to struggle with the exhaust being in the way of the 18mm long bolt, there are only 3 bolts and one nut holding the exhaust up. A 10 e-torx right by the transfer case (that brace was missing from this video), another 10 e-torx near the bumper, a 13mm bolt and 18mm nut, and one cross-brace with 4 torx bolts. You can rest the muffler on a box if you are on jack stands. You then have free and clear access to that 18mm long bolt.
The 18mm bolt he's saying to install the opposite side will only work on Manual Transmission , I have the GM transmission and there's is no way you could reverse install that 18mm Bolt .
Just started this procedure today on my X1 35i (E84) and was pleasantly surprised to find there is no drain plug for the transfer case on this model. :( I've only been able to extract about 500mL using a handheld mityvac through the fill plug, but don't know if I'm actually sucking from the bottom of the case. A complete fluid replacement might not be possible on the X1. Just a warning for any X1 owners reading this!
You made this look a lot easier than it is. Just finished it on. 2010 528ix and it was a pain in the ass to say the least. Heat shield was in the way had to cut and remove it. And the drain nut wasn’t able to use the socket.
Changed the transfer case fluid two days ago on 2007 E92, I wasn’t able to remove the bracket, I struggled with it for over one hour, I then ended up cutting about 1" of my 14mm Hex key “L” shape handle, used a hose removal pliers to fit it into plug, used a 14mm “Ratchet Wrench”, it was tight, but worked just fine without removing the bracket. You have to remove all the 13 mm bolts and loosen the 18mm bolt on the bracket to create a space to insert the Hex key. P.S. I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel to cut off the 1” Hex.
It's possible to remove the fill plug without removing the transfer case bracket. Get a 14mm hex socket. Press the hex bit out of the socket. Without the socket the bit is small enough to slide past the transfer case bracket and fit in the fill plug. Use a 14mm swival head racheting combination wrench to turn the bit and remove the plug. It's not easy but certainly no more difficult than removing that 18mm bolt.
There is no way to put that long pin from the oposite side on e90 335xi. Gearbox oilpan is in the way, however it's pretty easy to put it back from lower side of exhaust. When I was disassembling, I put that long 18 bolt/pin over the exhaust, but to put it back it was not possible over exhaust, but easy under it
Hello Frank, we'll keep that in mind for upcoming videos. The specialty tool to remove that bushing is available from Baum Tools under part number B221010PLUS.
@fcpeuro I have vibrations coming from my crankshaft pulley for some reason and it's seems alittle wopplly would you please post a video how to replace it I have 2006 e90 N52
I have no idea how this happened. Two of the Three long 13mm bolts had about a tablespoon of oil come out from them. 168k mile 09 328i. Transfer case and automatic transmission were bone dry. I have a slight rear main seal leak, but there isnt oil anywhere between these two points. I have a hunch someone poured oil into the frame at some point and these 13mm bolt holes are the lowest point
I'm not sure if the car you worked on was a stick, but if it is an automatic you can't reverse the long bolt, the transmission is in the way. if it is an automatic then it is completely different when you hit 2010's...
+george yannelis I believe this car was manual transmission. When I looked to see if anything would be in the way it was perfectly clear. I did a favor for the next person who has to remove this bolt because removing it the other way is not so much fun. In theory you can drop the exhaust for clearancing but one does not simply remove an exhaust from a car driving in New England year round.
+FCP Euro it was still a great video, helped me out a ton, only problem I had was taking that bolt out then putting it back in again due to the interference with the exhaust. I was able to do it without removing the exhaust at least
Mine is a 2007 328xi and couldnt take this bold out. The exhaust pipe was blocking it. Any any other alternative to remove this bold that you have figure out? Appreciate your help:)
Been trying to contact FCPEURO but haven't got an answer. I came here for a question: How much fluid do I need??! I have a 2013 328i, 3.0L 6-cylinder, xDrive coupe version. Thank you in advance.
Went through all this and couldnt get the drain plug of all loose. Said screw it and sucked it out with an extractor. Ps. That big bolt was a 16mm for me. Weird.
Nice video thanks, I did this job but I did not reset the tranfer case service because my foxwell 510 elite says the vehicle does not support this fuction, but now The car has a code for tc oil wear and I can t just erase it, it keeps COMMING back. Do you have any sugestions? Will it damage my tc driving with that code? THE OIL was changed 5000 Miles ago, less than 6months.
@@fcpeuro thats what i had to do. But they changed the fluid as well, because they had to make sure it was the right fluid. The Cost was $120. Had i invested a little more Money in better scanner, it would have it paid off. Thanks a lot, you helped lots.
@@jeanibiuna I have Protool from Bimmergeeks with KDCAN cable. It was like $200. It's an app you can use on your phone. It seems to be a lot more capable than most other scanners. Not sure if it does the transfer case code but I guess I will find out once I do mine. So far it has been great. I got 2 codes for my water pump before the car ever overheated or gave me any lights on the dash which I think was worth it just for that.
I'm constantly getting 4x4 an abs warning light , scanner says oil wear transfer case, so my question is will replacing fluid solve the issue? What prompted the oil to be changed on this car ?
The fluid change was preventative. With code 54C6 the fluid must be replaced and all adaptation values for the transfer case actuator must be reset after the drain and fill procedure. Assuming no damage has occurred to the internals of the transfer case a fluid change and adaptation value reset should resolve the problem.
Thanks for this video. I had the VGT Oil Wear error code that stayed on after the oil service. The Schwaben Scanner, also known as Foxwell NT510 can reset transfer case adaptation. I just found the path and completed this on my 2007 X3. First, in the Main Groups select SERVICE. Then select DRIVE. Then select TRANSMISSION CONTROL VTG. Then select OIL Change. Then you will see text stating to turn ignition on and do not start engine, select OK. The you will see text stating that next step is adaptation, select OK. I could hear mechanical movement under the vehicle. After this. I cleared the oil wear error code and it has stayed off. Fill and drain plugs on the X3 were easy to get to.
@@jeanibiuna You need to go through a few windows. First in "Main Group" select "Service". In "Service Function" select "Drive". In "Drive" select "Transmission Control VTG". In "Transmission Control VTG" select "Oil Change". Then you get "Procedure to Turn Ignition On" OK. Then you get "Adapt" OK. Listen carefully and you will hear mechanical adjustment from under the car. The oil wears indicator light will then be off when you scan. I did this successfully for two of my high mileage e83 X3s. A 2007 and 2010. Good luck!
@Michael Maloney, I did go to the service menu, I was able to reset the transmission oil service, but when I try the same procedure in the vtg control I only get the text that the vehicle does not support this function. Now I am realy worried because I do not know How to reset the vtg service. I only have the code for oilwear, I can see every thing else in the vtg with the foxwell 510, but I can not reset service. Thanks for you help.
Great video ! I've been watching all your C300 videos and I was wondering if you would do a similar video on how to change the fluid in the transfer case for the C300 (W204) ? Thanks !! Keep up making great, funny, knowledgeable, interesting DIY's !!!
Hi, Thank you so much for this great video! I was wondering if the transfer case reset is necessary? I searched for the answer for several days and it seems some people were able to replace the fluid without resetting the transfer case and without any problem while others encountered a lot of warning lights after the transfer case fluid change. Thank you!
+Edward Chou You do not need to re-calibrate or reset anything when changing the fluid. The only time coding/calibration is required is when the transfer case actuator motor is replaced.
@@fcpeuro I had this same question. Pelican Auto Parts also has a write-up of this procedure on their website. I posted this question and they responded with the exact opposite: The transfer case control module adaptations reset needs to be performed whenever the fluid is changed. Who is right?
What mileage do you typically change it at??? I just got the code at 134k and it’s not an error code, just general info which still surprised me because at older generations bmw described these as lifetime fluids,
Lifetime means 10 years or 100,000 miles. Lifetime doesn't mean forever. And vtg fluid isn't a lifetime fluid. A code is stored in the vtg control unit when the fluid is worn out. No MIL (malfunction indicator warning lamp) will come on in the dash to notify you that the vtg fluid is due to be replaced because it's worn out, well because nothing is malfunctioning. BMW probably should have put the vtg fluid monitoring into the CBS (condition based services) data monitoring, located in the instrument cluster or MID (multi information display) so that customers could more easily determine for themselves when the vtg fluid is due to be changed on their own. Instead of having to rely on a tech with bmw software to fetch the vtg code which more clearly states that the vtg fluid is officially worn out.
Great video as usual but dear god get that man some eye protection. All that crap falling from the cover plates or the brake cleaner will take you eye out. LOL.
Don't listen to them. If you have an AT, it's so much harder. They used a MT in this video. It would take forever to take the bolt in and out if you dont drop the exhaust.
First time took me about an hour, with automatic transmission, bolt came out easy, at max extention it makes contact with the exhaust, but easily clears it with just a little movement. 2nd time with a lift I was in and out in 30 minutes. Though I wasnt doing fluids, I was changing the actuator motor that requires these same steps.
Hello please help, I have a 330xi 2006 bmw. I had the abs, brake 4*4 lights, took it to mechanic and codes read transfer case malfunction and fluid low . I replaced the transfer case actuator myself but my lights still came on. Would it be the fluid that needs to be drain and fill? Please help? I put the new transfer motor but did not touch the fluid?
There's no way for us to really know 100% what the issue is. But with a fault indicating a fluid issue it is likely the fluid needs to be replaced and topped off. In addition, adaptation values must be reset with the installation of a new transfer case actuator. If the adaptation values were not reset this could also be causing an issue as well.
Pablo Amaya no bro local mechanic change the transfer oil and transfer case motor and lights still on so I’m still driving it like that it just won’t go away
Great video! Do y’all have the torque specs on the bracket bolts? I snapped one & haven’t found the right torque specs online. Dealer wasn’t much help.
So when trying to reinstall the long through bolt, you cannot do it in reverse if you have the GM transmission since the housing gets in the way. I have been trying to reinstall the long bolt and literally have no idea how to get it to pass through. I took off the torx bolts that is attached the exhaust to the transmission and tried to jack up the transfer case BUT for some weird reason the exhaust still lifts up. I'm probably gonna have to remove the exhaust, to get the long bolt through. Please help with any suggestions if you have done this work on an E90 LCI 328i xDrive.
Gareth i do have a 2011 535Xi is it going to be quite similar? Please advise. May I have the list of tools and parts used for this tutorial to order them at FCP!
Hi, Gopal. Yes this will be a similar process on your 535Xi. Here is the fluid: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transfer-case-fluid-83220397244 Here is a drain plug: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-differential-drain-plug
Technically, you are supposed to re initialize and adapt the vtg clutch mechanism electronically with the bmw software and tell the vehicle that you changed the vtg fluid so that a diagnostic trouble code will not come up stating that your vtg fluid is worn out. And doing that alone is worth $100
@@fcpeuro 👍 Since you are from FCPEuro, I have an account with you guys. I want to change the Rear Differential Fluid and put the inquiry what kind of Fluid I need to purchase from you, somehow she gave me the Fluid information which does not fit my car. I want the Fluid from BMW Group. Would you tell me which one I should purchase?
I can't seem to find a comprehensive maintenance schedule...I'm considering buying a 328xi with 55k miles. What maintenance do you guys suggest at 60k?
+K Kshithij Kamal BMW doesn't really offer what you would call a comprehensive maintenance schedule. In addition, some of their service intervals are either way too long or non existent. Truthfully, I believe most vehicle manufacturers limit their concern with maintenance on vehicles past the warranty period. For an E9X 328xi these are the service intervals that in our experience work best: Oil change: Every 5000 to 7500 miles with BMW LL-01 rated 5W30 synthetic oil, also change oil filter Cabin filter change: Yearly if carbon activated Engine filter change: BMW says every 3rd oil change at their designated 15K mile oil change interval, best to do it every 30K miles in reality Transfer case fluid change: Every 30-35K miles Manual trans fluid change: Every 30-35K miles Automatic fluid change: Every 50,000 miles or 8 years, whichever comes first Differential fluid change: Every 30-35K miles Spark plug change: 75K miles on the N51/N52 engine used in the 328i/328xi/328i xDrive All other item replacements are as needed.
I need advice! A guy wants 4500 for a 2006 325xi (he wanted 5500 for it originally) I took it to the dealership for a PPI. It has 130k miles on it and here is what is wrong with it: Oil pan gasket, under shield of right side, air bag control unit, transfer case service (idk what this is). but everything else is fine on the car, so should I get it?
Hello Bralon, it sounds like a good deal. The only thing I would be concerned with is the air bag control unit because a replacement will cost over $500 and will require coding from the dealer.
i have 330xi 2006 abs brake dsc 4x4 are on all time .. i scan the car . it show code 5f39 transfer case internal. any advice . what this coul be .?? thanks..
Most likely an issue with the transfer case actuator. Pretty common fault where the gear in the transfer case actuator strips. www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/330xi/Transfer-Case-Motor?year=2006&e=2053&m=20&page=1
hey dude . i like your videos .. very nice information .i have question . what happend if you dont . change the fluid .. what this can couse .... any problem whit 4x4 or what ???? .. thanks ..
Fluid gets old. Transfer case fluid lasts longer than most other operating fluids but still wears out. The code associated with old fluid is 54C6 which translates to "worn transfer case fluid". This code means the fluid should be replaced and all adaptations should be reset after replacement.
A trouble code will be stored. It can be read by a BMW scan tool or a higher end scan tool. Also need a BMW scan tool to register the fluid as having been changed to get the code to go away.
@@okallup8012 That is correct I don’t have the E90 now but I think I use a ratchet box I seem to remember that I had to cut off - shorten-the tool that goes in the hex been yrs. I’ve also heard of people loading it from the drain hole with a big suction/ plunger filled with the correct amount. Just got to be quick with the drain plug
Hi Francisco, you only need a 1-liter bottle. Fill the fluid until it is level with bottom of fill hole or very little leaks out. Here is our kit that includes fluid, and new drain and fill plugs: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transfer-case-service-kit-atc300svckit#fitment
+Jose Mendiolaza Yes, if your BMW is an xDrive equipped model it will have a transfer case. It is recommended to perform fluid changes to ensure proper service life.
+Jose Mendiolaza BMW unfortunately publishes service intervals on components that are out of line with the industry average. In some cases they say components are "lifetime fill" which is simply untrue. Other vehicle manufacturers do this as well to artificially lower the maintenance cost and also reduce their cost on servicing vehicles under warranty. A good example of this is BMW says 6HP automatic transmissions have a lifetime fill rating. However, ZF, the manufacturer of the transmission publishes information which can be found on their own website that says the service interval on the 6HP transmission is 8 years or 80K kilometers, whichever comes first. In regards to transfer cases on all wheel drive BMW models I believe most of them are designed and manufactured by Borg Warner. While Borg Warner does not publish service information online I have found it best to treat transfer cases just like manual transmissions. Fluid changes should be done every 30K miles.
Didn't even say what torque to tight the fill or drain plug. You just yanked on the wrench hard and that is enough to strip the plug or overtighten it. BMWs are very sensitive when it comes to torque. I own X1, X3 and X5 currently and maintain them myself most of time. Good video though.
F@ck paying $50 plus per quart for Farfignueggen fluid without the typical gear oil stink. Anyone see any adverse effects or experience shortened lifespan issues running cheaper GM Autotrac 2 transfercase oil or regular full synthetic 75w90 gear oil?LOL
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We hope you found this video helpful!
Read More Here: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-diy-replace-bmw-e90-325xi-transfer-case-fluid
Shop Parts Used In This Video:
BMW DTF1 Transfer Case Fluid (1 Liter) - Genuine BMW 83222409710:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transfer-case-fluid-83220397244?
BMW Differential Drain/Fill Plug - OE Supplier 33117525064:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-differential-drain-plug?
I finally get this job done yesterday and would like to share something here:
1. Before draining the fluid, I disconnected the battery just in case. I've heard a lot of people got into trouble after they replaced the transfer case fluid, especially for the vehicles made after 2007. Some people argue that it's important to make sure the car is in "sleeping mode" during the process. So I just disconnected the battery and reconnected it after the job was finished.
2. I scanned the computer with Carly right after the engine was started (no fault code on the dashboard). I saw one fault code (0055C3) in Transmission section, saying that "No DXC desired torque setting". I deleted it and did another test drive and scanned the computer again. This time I got a fault code in ECU 55 (00DE50) which is just an unknown DTC fault. I deleted it and test drive and scanned the computer again and did not see any fault code.
3. I found that it's much easier to remove the 18mm long bolt with some of the 13mm bolts are still on. So the weight can be distributed and not on the 18mm bolt 100%. With the helps of 13mm bolts and a bottle jack under the transfer case, I was able to remove the 18mm bolt just by my hand. But I did reinstall the 18mm bolt in reverse lol. Thanks for the idea.
Again, many thanks for this video!
Gareth/FCP team, thanks for the detailed video and explanations, this helped me big time to complete the job. For those of you who are planning on taking this job here is a couple of remarks and tips to make sure you don't get surprises.
Vehicle shown in this video has a manual transmission which does not have fluid pan next to the transfer case. If you are performing this job on the vehicle with automatic transmission (AT) make sure you have L shape allen wrench (14mm) which would be the ideal tool to use. In my case I had 1'' driven socket with 14mm allen, but due to the AT oil pan being in the way there was no way to undo the drain plug since the socket with rachet won't fit because of limited room. I ended up using same size allen socket bit (with 3/8" end) which did fit in between the oil pan and the drain plug. I placed 14mm close-end wrench on the inserted allen bit (drain plug is quite shallow so there is still a bit of allen bit sticking out) which did the trick.
Another pain was 18mm long bolt. With AT you won't be able to secure the bolt different way like shown in the video. I had to use leverage on the exhaust pipes to get the bolt out and back in again (tip - make sure bracket is jacked up to the right level and meets the screw hole before trying to push in the screw).
Other than that it should be pretty similar to what Gareth shows in the video. Hope this will save someone some time.
You're welcome! Glad the video helped.
Karxas so what this service is good for
@@fcpeuro Kudos to Karvas! Thank you so much you are 1000% correct for those who have AT please read Karxas's remarks & tips before monkeying around the transfer case for AT enthusiasts. "Another pain was 18 mm long bolt. With AT you won't be able to secure the bolt different way like shown in the video." - Thanks Karxas
@@albertpimentel8230 Good for DIY and engineering best practice to keep the car without expensive repairs due to metal shavings from the gears and AWD never prematurely gives up.
YES!!! I should have read your comment before buying up a bunch of sockets and wrenches to fit between then at pan and transfer case. THANK YOU!!!
I managed to get this done without removing the mount (saved so much time took less than an hr in total.
What I’ve done:
Like a few of people are saying in the comments, I got a 14mm hex socket and pressed the hex bit out of the metal socket.
I then fiddled the hex bit on the fill plug first to ensure I can crack it open before draining the fluid. It’s a little tight spot but it’s doable with some fiddling. It was on there super hard so I had to loosen it with a metal bar and a 10mil wrench, then continued to loosen it by a rachet wrench.
Let the fluid drain then installed a new drain bolt, pumped fluid into the fill hole until it starts leaking out, then installed a new fill bolt also. Took about 1 litre approx.
Make sure your car is jacked up and leveled front and rear so you’ll fill up the right amount of fluid.
Overall great video!
18mm mount bolt - I wrestled with it for half an hour, eventually worked it out by twisting the mounting bracket, turning the bolt (with a wrench )pulling the bolt BELOW the exhaust pipe. Changed height of jack support on transfer case a few times too.
thank you for this tip! I went back to TH-cam after struggling with the 18mm bolt for awhile trying to pull it out over the exhaust without success. The rubber bushing on the transfer case was flexible enough once the mounting bracket bolts are removed to wrestle the bolt out from below.
For those who do not want to struggle with the exhaust being in the way of the 18mm long bolt, there are only 3 bolts and one nut holding the exhaust up. A 10 e-torx right by the transfer case (that brace was missing from this video), another 10 e-torx near the bumper, a 13mm bolt and 18mm nut, and one cross-brace with 4 torx bolts. You can rest the muffler on a box if you are on jack stands. You then have free and clear access to that 18mm long bolt.
The 18mm bolt he's saying to install the opposite side will only work on Manual Transmission , I have the GM transmission and there's is no way you could reverse install that 18mm Bolt .
Thing is a massive pain in the ass
You can if you close your eyes and make a wish.
Just started this procedure today on my X1 35i (E84) and was pleasantly surprised to find there is no drain plug for the transfer case on this model. :( I've only been able to extract about 500mL using a handheld mityvac through the fill plug, but don't know if I'm actually sucking from the bottom of the case. A complete fluid replacement might not be possible on the X1. Just a warning for any X1 owners reading this!
You made this look a lot easier than it is. Just finished it on. 2010 528ix and it was a pain in the ass to say the least. Heat shield was in the way had to cut and remove it. And the drain nut wasn’t able to use the socket.
You're so right. Lol they suck. I have special allen socket and wrench made by Hazet tools.
Please please include torque specs for bolts
Thanks
Changed the transfer case fluid two days ago on 2007 E92, I wasn’t able to remove the bracket, I struggled with it for over one hour, I then ended up cutting about 1" of my 14mm Hex key “L” shape handle, used a hose removal pliers to fit it into plug, used a 14mm “Ratchet Wrench”, it was tight, but worked just fine without removing the bracket. You have to remove all the 13 mm bolts and loosen the 18mm bolt on the bracket to create a space to insert the Hex key.
P.S. I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel to cut off the 1” Hex.
It's possible to remove the fill plug without removing the transfer case bracket. Get a 14mm hex socket. Press the hex bit out of the socket. Without the socket the bit is small enough to slide past the transfer case bracket and fit in the fill plug. Use a 14mm swival head racheting combination wrench to turn the bit and remove the plug. It's not easy but certainly no more difficult than removing that 18mm bolt.
great idea, but what do you use to press out the bit?
@@limbowebby4126 Just a vise, a bolt, and another socket
Yoooo I'm doing this, got a shop press already. Many thanks! Finding comments like yours is why I'm a boss🤠😎
Thanks for the upload hope you have a diy of waterpump and thermostat replacement.
Nice to see your transfer case has a drain plug. My 2013 F30 does not. makes changing this fluid tougher.
There is no way to put that long pin from the oposite side on e90 335xi. Gearbox oilpan is in the way, however it's pretty easy to put it back from lower side of exhaust. When I was disassembling, I put that long 18 bolt/pin over the exhaust, but to put it back it was not possible over exhaust, but easy under it
CAN YOU DO A VIDEO ON HOW TO CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT ON 330XI
It's on our to-do list!
thanks.
FCP Euro Cn't seem to find it. Can you paste link for me? Thanks
How often do we need to change the Transfer Case oil on a BMW X3? Thanks
I'm sure you already looked it up, but it's around 50,000 miles.
nice vid, i was killing myself trying to the the bushing bolt in the way it came out
Hopefully, the video was able to help, Peter!
Great... how about a video on how you get that transfer case bushing out?
Hello Frank, we'll keep that in mind for upcoming videos. The specialty tool to remove that bushing is available from Baum Tools under part number B221010PLUS.
I second this request 😁
@fcpeuro
I have vibrations coming from my crankshaft pulley for some reason and it's seems alittle wopplly would you please post a video how to replace it
I have 2006 e90 N52
I have no idea how this happened. Two of the Three long 13mm bolts had about a tablespoon of oil come out from them. 168k mile 09 328i. Transfer case and automatic transmission were bone dry. I have a slight rear main seal leak, but there isnt oil anywhere between these two points.
I have a hunch someone poured oil into the frame at some point and these 13mm bolt holes are the lowest point
Do you have similar video for a F32 435i xdrive?
how often should I need to change my transfer case fluid?
Baris Metin 60 000km
I'm not sure if the car you worked on was a stick, but if it is an automatic you can't reverse the long bolt, the transmission is in the way. if it is an automatic then it is completely different when you hit 2010's...
+george yannelis I believe this car was manual transmission. When I looked to see if anything would be in the way it was perfectly clear. I did a favor for the next person who has to remove this bolt because removing it the other way is not so much fun. In theory you can drop the exhaust for clearancing but one does not simply remove an exhaust from a car driving in New England year round.
+FCP Euro it was still a great video, helped me out a ton, only problem I had was taking that bolt out then putting it back in again due to the interference with the exhaust. I was able to do it without removing the exhaust at least
Mine is a 2007 328xi and couldnt take this bold out. The exhaust pipe was blocking it. Any any other alternative to remove this bold that you have figure out? Appreciate your help:)
I think you dont need to remove bracket from tc whats the point leave it on, just unbolt from car body
@@georgeyannelis1030 so i know this is 5 years later but how did you get the long bolt back in ive been trying for hours
what about resetting the Oil Code??
Can you show the transfer case refill for Mercedes Benz C300 as well?
Been trying to contact FCPEURO but haven't got an answer. I came here for a question:
How much fluid do I need??!
I have a 2013 328i, 3.0L 6-cylinder, xDrive coupe version.
Thank you in advance.
do you have a video to replace the transfer case motor?
Never seen one go bad. The Transfer case goes bad when you get codes for vtg.
Went through all this and couldnt get the drain plug of all loose. Said screw it and sucked it out with an extractor. Ps. That big bolt was a 16mm for me. Weird.
do you have to reset anything after changing the fluid ?
No transfer case on rwd models?
Differentials next? :)
Do you happen to know the torque for t case bolts? I couldn't find them in bendy manual
Thanks
60Nm (44 ft lbs).
Thanks!
@@fcpeuro You replied to a different comment with 24 ft lbs. Now I'm confused.
Nice video thanks, I did this job but I did not reset the tranfer case service because my foxwell 510 elite says the vehicle does not support this fuction, but now The car has a code for tc oil wear and I can t just erase it, it keeps COMMING back. Do you have any sugestions? Will it damage my tc driving with that code? THE OIL was changed 5000 Miles ago, less than 6months.
Maybe you can try and find a shop that will reset the code for you?
@@fcpeuro thats what i had to do. But they changed the fluid as well, because they had to make sure it was the right fluid. The Cost was $120. Had i invested a little more Money in better scanner, it would have it paid off. Thanks a lot, you helped lots.
@@jeanibiuna I have Protool from Bimmergeeks with KDCAN cable. It was like $200. It's an app you can use on your phone. It seems to be a lot more capable than most other scanners. Not sure if it does the transfer case code but I guess I will find out once I do mine. So far it has been great. I got 2 codes for my water pump before the car ever overheated or gave me any lights on the dash which I think was worth it just for that.
What did you use to take the drain plug out?
Awesome video, thanks for sharing, I am from Recife in Brazil South America, very informative..
Does this work for a 2008 325xi
I'm constantly getting 4x4 an abs warning light , scanner says oil wear transfer case, so my question is will replacing fluid solve the issue? What prompted the oil to be changed on this car ?
The fluid change was preventative. With code 54C6 the fluid must be replaced and all adaptation values for the transfer case actuator must be reset after the drain and fill procedure. Assuming no damage has occurred to the internals of the transfer case a fluid change and adaptation value reset should resolve the problem.
Great video! The ZF oil you are using is it the same as in the Transmission gearbox?
No
Totally different
Should the Transfer Box be resetet or adaptet after the oil change? best regards from Germany
Typically recommended on higher mileage vehicles, and or if the vehicle had issues with the transfer case prior to the service.
Thanks for this video. I had the VGT Oil Wear error code that stayed on after the oil service. The Schwaben Scanner, also known as Foxwell NT510 can reset transfer case adaptation. I just found the path and completed this on my 2007 X3. First, in the Main Groups select SERVICE. Then select DRIVE. Then select TRANSMISSION CONTROL VTG. Then select OIL Change. Then you will see text stating to turn ignition on and do not start engine, select OK. The you will see text stating that next step is adaptation, select OK. I could hear mechanical movement under the vehicle. After this. I cleared the oil wear error code and it has stayed off. Fill and drain plugs on the X3 were easy to get to.
You're welcome, Michael. Thanks for the tips on clearing the Oil Wear error code!
My foxwell 510 elite says that the vehicle does not support tranfer case maintenance reset. What should I do?
@@jeanibiuna You need to go through a few windows. First in "Main Group" select "Service". In "Service Function" select "Drive". In "Drive" select "Transmission Control VTG". In "Transmission Control VTG" select "Oil Change". Then you get "Procedure to Turn Ignition On" OK. Then you get "Adapt" OK. Listen carefully and you will hear mechanical adjustment from under the car. The oil wears indicator light will then be off when you scan. I did this successfully for two of my high mileage e83 X3s. A 2007 and 2010. Good luck!
@Michael Maloney, I did go to the service menu, I was able to reset the transmission oil service, but when I try the same procedure in the vtg control I only get the text that the vehicle does not support this function. Now I am realy worried because I do not know How to reset the vtg service. I only have the code for oilwear, I can see every thing else in the vtg with the foxwell 510, but I can not reset service. Thanks for you help.
Great video ! I've been watching all your C300 videos and I was wondering if you would do a similar video on how to change the fluid in the transfer case for the C300 (W204) ? Thanks !! Keep up making great, funny, knowledgeable, interesting DIY's !!!
Hi,
Thank you so much for this great video! I was wondering if the transfer case reset is necessary? I searched for the answer for several days and it seems some people were able to replace the fluid without resetting the transfer case and without any problem while others encountered a lot of warning lights after the transfer case fluid change. Thank you!
+Edward Chou You do not need to re-calibrate or reset anything when changing the fluid. The only time coding/calibration is required is when the transfer case actuator motor is replaced.
Thanks a lot!
@@fcpeuro I had this same question. Pelican Auto Parts also has a write-up of this procedure on their website. I posted this question and they responded with the exact opposite: The transfer case control module adaptations reset needs to be performed whenever the fluid is changed. Who is right?
What mileage do you typically change it at??? I just got the code at 134k and it’s not an error code, just general info which still surprised me
because at older generations bmw described these as lifetime fluids,
134k on original fluid would definitely be a good time to change it.
FCP Euro thanks to your 2day delivery replaced it Thursday, thanks for quick turnaround 👍
Lifetime means 10 years or 100,000 miles. Lifetime doesn't mean forever. And vtg fluid isn't a lifetime fluid. A code is stored in the vtg control unit when the fluid is worn out. No MIL (malfunction indicator warning lamp) will come on in the dash to notify you that the vtg fluid is due to be replaced because it's worn out, well because nothing is malfunctioning. BMW probably should have put the vtg fluid monitoring into the CBS (condition based services) data monitoring, located in the instrument cluster or MID (multi information display) so that customers could more easily determine for themselves when the vtg fluid is due to be changed on their own. Instead of having to rely on a tech with bmw software to fetch the vtg code which more clearly states that the vtg fluid is officially worn out.
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7 Lifetime DOES mean forever............not for BMW....but it does for every part that FCP sells, and thank goodness!
@@saganworshipper6062 I'm not talking about FCP. I'm talking about what automobile manufacturers consider the term "lifetime," to be defined as.
Great video as usual but dear god get that man some eye protection. All that crap falling from the cover plates or the brake cleaner will take you eye out. LOL.
Great video ty
Thank you too!
any idea what the actual time required was to complete this job?
As long as the transfer bolt comes out smoothly, this is a 1.5 hour job for a first timer with the required tools.
Don't listen to them. If you have an AT, it's so much harder. They used a MT in this video. It would take forever to take the bolt in and out if you dont drop the exhaust.
First time took me about an hour, with automatic transmission, bolt came out easy, at max extention it makes contact with the exhaust, but easily clears it with just a little movement. 2nd time with a lift I was in and out in 30 minutes. Though I wasnt doing fluids, I was changing the actuator motor that requires these same steps.
@@HaggertyCustoms i know it’s been 2 years but can you explain how you put the long bolt back in without dropping the exhaust
@@aaron7575 I probably did what the video mentions and put it in from the front instead
Hello please help, I have a 330xi 2006 bmw. I had the abs, brake 4*4 lights, took it to mechanic and codes read transfer case malfunction and fluid low . I replaced the transfer case actuator myself but my lights still came on. Would it be the fluid that needs to be drain and fill? Please help? I put the new transfer motor but did not touch the fluid?
There's no way for us to really know 100% what the issue is. But with a fault indicating a fluid issue it is likely the fluid needs to be replaced and topped off. In addition, adaptation values must be reset with the installation of a new transfer case actuator. If the adaptation values were not reset this could also be causing an issue as well.
Hello Bruce I'm having the same problem did you get it figured out?
Pablo Amaya no bro local mechanic change the transfer oil and transfer case motor and lights still on so I’m still driving it like that it just won’t go away
@@fcpeuro What are adaptation values?
i hear some noises from differential when i clutch, will the an oil change help a little bit ?
i have almost 200.000 kilometers shall i try?
It's possible the oil change could help with the noise.
Great video! Do y’all have the torque specs on the bracket bolts? I snapped one & haven’t found the right torque specs online. Dealer wasn’t much help.
Hi A.B, for those types of brackets usually 19-20NM is a safe bet for those small 13mm bolts.
@@fcpeuro including the longer ones on passenger side? Thank you!
So when trying to reinstall the long through bolt, you cannot do it in reverse if you have the GM transmission since the housing gets in the way. I have been trying to reinstall the long bolt and literally have no idea how to get it to pass through. I took off the torx bolts that is attached the exhaust to the transmission and tried to jack up the transfer case BUT for some weird reason the exhaust still lifts up. I'm probably gonna have to remove the exhaust, to get the long bolt through. Please help with any suggestions if you have done this work on an E90 LCI 328i xDrive.
Did you find a way?
Gareth i do have a 2011 535Xi is it going to be quite similar? Please advise. May I have the list of tools and parts used for this tutorial to order them at FCP!
Hi, Gopal. Yes this will be a similar process on your 535Xi.
Here is the fluid: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transfer-case-fluid-83220397244
Here is a drain plug: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-differential-drain-plug
Hello I have a 2006 525xi /e60 I wanted to know if you know how much oil is needed for transfer case after it’s drained?
1L is enough
@@Christopher9835 how much oil must to put inside the transfer case?
@@Christopher98351L or less.
Excluding parts, what is a fair "labor" cost at an INDY for this? I know it will vary but what is a fair price range?
Between $51-$81 is fair.
Technically, you are supposed to re initialize and adapt the vtg clutch mechanism electronically with the bmw software and tell the vehicle that you changed the vtg fluid so that a diagnostic trouble code will not come up stating that your vtg fluid is worn out. And doing that alone is worth $100
Great video. Thank you.
I have a 2014 535i X Drive with 61K miles, it is just normal driving. You think I need to change the Transfer Case Fluid or until it hit 100K?
Every 50k miles would be best, so you can preform the service now, and then do it again near the 100k mark!
@@fcpeuro 👍
Since you are from FCPEuro, I have an account with you guys. I want to change the Rear Differential Fluid and put the inquiry what kind of Fluid I need to purchase from you, somehow she gave me the Fluid information which does not fit my car. I want the Fluid from BMW Group.
Would you tell me which one I should purchase?
I can't seem to find a comprehensive maintenance schedule...I'm considering buying a 328xi with 55k miles.
What maintenance do you guys suggest at 60k?
+K Kshithij Kamal BMW doesn't really offer what you would call a comprehensive maintenance schedule. In addition, some of their service intervals are either way too long or non existent. Truthfully, I believe most vehicle manufacturers limit their concern with maintenance on vehicles past the warranty period. For an E9X 328xi these are the service intervals that in our experience work best:
Oil change: Every 5000 to 7500 miles with BMW LL-01 rated 5W30 synthetic oil, also change oil filter
Cabin filter change: Yearly if carbon activated
Engine filter change: BMW says every 3rd oil change at their designated 15K mile oil change interval, best to do it every 30K miles in reality
Transfer case fluid change: Every 30-35K miles
Manual trans fluid change: Every 30-35K miles
Automatic fluid change: Every 50,000 miles or 8 years, whichever comes first
Differential fluid change: Every 30-35K miles
Spark plug change: 75K miles on the N51/N52 engine used in the 328i/328xi/328i xDrive
All other item replacements are as needed.
Is this a MT E90? I couldn't put the long bolt back in due to the lack of space (I have an AT E90)
Hello, that vehicle has a manual transmission.
and after the change reset adaptation values for the transfercase actuator?
Yes
noticed the lack of that info too..
Hey thanks for the Video!! Just one question, I only need one liter ?
Thanks
Hello Rafael, there's only one liter required for the transfer case.
FCP Euro thanks!! I already bought it
I need advice! A guy wants 4500 for a 2006 325xi (he wanted 5500 for it originally) I took it to the dealership for a PPI. It has 130k miles on it and here is what is wrong with it: Oil pan gasket, under shield of right side, air bag control unit, transfer case service (idk what this is). but everything else is fine on the car, so should I get it?
Hello Bralon, it sounds like a good deal. The only thing I would be concerned with is the air bag control unit because a replacement will cost over $500 and will require coding from the dealer.
FCP Euro wow thanks the dealer quoted 716 for the air bag I have about 1600 right now for repairs idk if it's worth the trouble though
I would double check the blue book value to see if it would make sense. The other repairs needed are common of a vehicle of that age.
i have 330xi 2006 abs brake dsc 4x4 are on all time .. i scan the car . it show code 5f39 transfer case internal. any advice . what this coul be .?? thanks..
Most likely an issue with the transfer case actuator. Pretty common fault where the gear in the transfer case actuator strips.
www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/330xi/Transfer-Case-Motor?year=2006&e=2053&m=20&page=1
looks abt same as E90 328x and i never removed the big bracket
hey dude . i like your videos .. very nice information .i have question . what happend if you dont . change the fluid .. what this can couse .... any problem whit 4x4 or what ???? .. thanks ..
Fluid gets old. Transfer case fluid lasts longer than most other operating fluids but still wears out. The code associated with old fluid is 54C6 which translates to "worn transfer case fluid". This code means the fluid should be replaced and all adaptations should be reset after replacement.
Great video, thanks!
this doesn't work on the 12+ 750li. trans pan is in the way of the drain plug.
How do u know when to change the transfer case fluid?
A trouble code will be stored. It can be read by a BMW scan tool or a higher end scan tool. Also need a BMW scan tool to register the fluid as having been changed to get the code to go away.
i never take that off, its tough but one can get to the fill plug and use a box wrench
Are you saying that you can get to the fill plug and drain plug without removing the bracket?
@@okallup8012 That is correct
I don’t have the E90 now but I think I use a ratchet box I seem to remember that I had to cut off - shorten-the tool that goes in the hex
been yrs. I’ve also heard of people loading it from the drain hole with a big suction/ plunger filled with the correct amount. Just got to be quick with the drain plug
Any reason you didn't replace that shot front driveshaft while you were there?
It's mint.
super merci pour l'info...top
Where could I️ get the screws for the splash shield ?
We have most of the hardware available in Genuine. You'll be able to find diagrams and OEM part numbers using this site.
www.etkbmw.com/
whats the torque spec for drain and fill plug?
Torgue spec is 24 nm or 18 ft lbs.
@@fcpeuro On a different comment for this same video you replied 44 ft lbs. You might want to clarify.
Is this job the same on a 2011 bmw 535i xdrive?
Hi Dante, while it is probably a similar process, the 2011 5 series is a bit different.
@@fcpeuro thanks for the feedback!
Honestly don't know how much the dealership would have ripped me of if it weren't for you guys.
thanx
How many litter do I need for 2011 E90?
Hi Francisco, you only need a 1-liter bottle. Fill the fluid until it is level with bottom of fill hole or very little leaks out. Here is our kit that includes fluid, and new drain and fill plugs: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transfer-case-service-kit-atc300svckit#fitment
Whats the price to change the transfercase fluid
Hi, Steven. You can find the kit here and save a lot of money doing it yourself: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transfer-case-service-kit-atc300svckit
Please tell me yall seen the bad u joints/driveshaft dust? Lol good vid. But Also doable without removing the bracket. Cheers guys!
i have 2008 btw 328xi coupe ... does my car need to change oil in the 4 wheel drive? does my car have transfer case?
+Jose Mendiolaza Yes, if your BMW is an xDrive equipped model it will have a transfer case. It is recommended to perform fluid changes to ensure proper service life.
+FCP Euro how often should I change it, I asked the dealer and said don't do unless leaking damage, is it true
+Jose Mendiolaza BMW unfortunately publishes service intervals on components that are out of line with the industry average. In some cases they say components are "lifetime fill" which is simply untrue. Other vehicle manufacturers do this as well to artificially lower the maintenance cost and also reduce their cost on servicing vehicles under warranty. A good example of this is BMW says 6HP automatic transmissions have a lifetime fill rating. However, ZF, the manufacturer of the transmission publishes information which can be found on their own website that says the service interval on the 6HP transmission is 8 years or 80K kilometers, whichever comes first. In regards to transfer cases on all wheel drive BMW models I believe most of them are designed and manufactured by Borg Warner. While Borg Warner does not publish service information online I have found it best to treat transfer cases just like manual transmissions. Fluid changes should be done every 30K miles.
Hey bud! Do you have a video about how to replace the transfer case of bmw 325xi 2002? Could be nice to watch it!!
Unfortunately, we do not have a video on a transfer case replacement at this time.
CT Bimmer!!
Came here because of the blooper reel video.
I totally wanted to flick that chunk of spiderweb off the floor jack.
🕷
Break cleaner wears bushings careful with that one
my car doesnt have this drain plug kkkk
Compliqué à faire
Ok that’s cool and all but how the fuck do I get that bolt back in the mount
Hope you have a minute to help me with this tough situation . What is your suggestion to get the bolt back in ?
Don't do it this way, remove servo motor and fill there !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
where is servo motor
@@kingsconsultingcarrepair2884 the only electric motor mounted to the transfer case. And not a bad idea
Yeah... I'm not doing this. 😂
Didn't even say what torque to tight the fill or drain plug. You just yanked on the wrench hard and that is enough to strip the plug or overtighten it. BMWs are very sensitive when it comes to torque. I own X1, X3 and X5 currently and maintain them myself most of time. Good video though.
F@ck paying $50 plus per quart for Farfignueggen fluid without the typical gear oil stink. Anyone see any adverse effects or experience shortened lifespan issues running cheaper GM Autotrac 2 transfercase oil or regular full synthetic 75w90 gear oil?LOL
Yeah ok. How about using a Automatic instead of Manual to do a video.
Bullshit amount of work for regular maintenance. Cant wait to sell this turd.
Thanks for this video
hi
is this similar to 2011 328i xDrive?