Let me know your thoughts on the front baffle! I am thinking either the same figured curly maple but keeping it in its natural color for more of a 2 tone look or going high gloss piano black.
Matt, you are a real craftsman. I remember the great job you did with that curved top project. That was a bold choice and it tuned out great! I have finished many gunstocks and only one in maple. That was the hardest one I ever did.
Thanks Mike, if I could go back I might go about it slightly different, maybe a slightly different black tone of dye on the second coat to highlight the figure in the maple but either way I am pretty happy with the result.
I hope you rounded over the Speaker Through Holes...as sharp internal edges create diffraction waves. Which is way Baffle Edges are rounded over. The internal as I understand it shows as ringing in spectral analysis.
Great video Matt. These are excellent sounding DIY speakers! I built a pair of Critons with the upgraded x-over for post-covid ‘therapy’ and they are my most audiophile-sounding speakers. I enjoy them over my Elac Unifis and Wharfedale Lintons. They are smooth and refined and handle as much power as I can throw at them. I would encourage anyone interested in end-game bookshelf sound on a budget to give these serious consideration. And no, I don’t work for CSS. But they are that GOOD.
This one will have the upgraded crossover as well, comments like these make me excited to wrap these up and bring them into my system. Thanks for sharing!
@@MattCoykendall1I went into my first DIY speaker build cold turkey, had to buy lots of clamps, a router, several bits and of course learn how to use them, then came the soldering etc. But the CSS kit makes it easy and enjoyable. It is TH-camrs like yourself that made it approachable for someone relatively inexperienced, like I was. I hot press-veneered my set with a traditional walnut and finished with a matte finish lacquer - about 8 coats with sanding in between. I will look forward to your finished speaker and your review👍
How are these speakers for low volume listening? I’ve seen in reviews they take quite a bit of power to open up…does that mean these aren’t great for lower volume listening?
@it’s like driving a Ferrari in low speed traffic. There are much cheaper options that will get you the same experience. But when you get on the highway, or in this case, turn up the volume, that’s when you are getting what you paid for.
Looks like a fun build! Right up my alley. Combines two great hobbies. I think you may have just inspired me to try this. FYI Titebond Titebrush might come in handy. Glu Bot is also invaluable.
I always wonder why no one seems to use a small air nailer for the build process of a cabinet, just to help hold everything together till the glue sets up or until you can clamp it. Looks good!
May I ask? You glued the boxes together without the front panel. Was there concern the front panel wouldn't have enough clearance to slip in afterwords? Thx.
Its certainly an option but as long as you use enough glue you should have a good seal. Also keep in mind these are ported so at the end of the day sealing these with a silicone may be a mute point.
I just got hold of a pair of Tannoy Eatons from my wifes uncle, which were rotting away in his garage.The cabinets are toast, but miraculously, the drivers are intact and working, as are the electronics (though the crossovers and controls will need rebuilt, which I can do). If I had the skills, the tools, and the workspace, I would love to build new cabinets myself. As it is, I will need to recruit some help. They are too nice to bin or sell for parts. Happily my wife has lots of uncles, one of whom is a cabinetmaker.
I completely get that feeling, when I run into interesting gear from the 70’s it’s hard for me to just let it rot away. I picked up a complete system, receiver, turntable and speakers from a gentlemen who purchased it while deployed and brought it back to the US in the early 70’s, I fixed everything back up but truthfully don’t really have a use for it, still glad I bought it.
The titebond II I used is also a PVA glue, it’s just difficult to wipe off when you have 120 clamps in the way like me haha. I agree though , it’s the way to go.
I do have a decent amount in tools here like clamps but the good news is since kits like this are CNC cut you could actually put it together with tape and still get everything sealed up.
@MattCoykendall1 ... Doesnt answer my question. 😇 You nailed the spirit of the " You don't need pricey tools to make it ".. but I genuinely want to know.
Awsome work! Love the finish! I went with their Baltic Birch flat pack and finished it with Bee Nooba hard wax. It came out great! Here's the reason and the review on why I went with the brand th-cam.com/video/6zpJJri1XOM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xy0RLcUCZaM-4yBl Edit: where is part II? 😆
Let me know your thoughts on the front baffle! I am thinking either the same figured curly maple but keeping it in its natural color for more of a 2 tone look or going high gloss piano black.
This is the best "how to" video I've ever seen on these DIY speaker builds - well done!
Really appreciate that, thanks for watching Dan
Matt, you are a real craftsman. I remember the great job you did with that curved top project. That was a bold choice and it tuned out great! I have finished many gunstocks and only one in maple. That was the hardest one I ever did.
Thanks Mike, if I could go back I might go about it slightly different, maybe a slightly different black tone of dye on the second coat to highlight the figure in the maple but either way I am pretty happy with the result.
I hope you rounded over the Speaker Through Holes...as sharp internal edges create diffraction waves. Which is way Baffle Edges are rounded over. The internal as I understand it shows as ringing in spectral analysis.
Great video Matt. These are excellent sounding DIY speakers! I built a pair of Critons with the upgraded x-over for post-covid ‘therapy’ and they are my most audiophile-sounding speakers. I enjoy them over my Elac Unifis and Wharfedale Lintons. They are smooth and refined and handle as much power as I can throw at them. I would encourage anyone interested in end-game bookshelf sound on a budget to give these serious consideration. And no, I don’t work for CSS. But they are that GOOD.
This one will have the upgraded crossover as well, comments like these make me excited to wrap these up and bring them into my system. Thanks for sharing!
@@MattCoykendall1I went into my first DIY speaker build cold turkey, had to buy lots of clamps, a router, several bits and of course learn how to use them, then came the soldering etc. But the CSS kit makes it easy and enjoyable. It is TH-camrs like yourself that made it approachable for someone relatively inexperienced, like I was. I hot press-veneered my set with a traditional walnut and finished with a matte finish lacquer - about 8 coats with sanding in between. I will look forward to your finished speaker and your review👍
How are these speakers for low volume listening? I’ve seen in reviews they take quite a bit of power to open up…does that mean these aren’t great for lower volume listening?
@it’s like driving a Ferrari in low speed traffic. There are much cheaper options that will get you the same experience.
But when you get on the highway, or in this case, turn up the volume, that’s when you are getting what you paid for.
Looking forward to the acoustic impressions video!
Me too!
Looks like a fun build! Right up my alley. Combines two great hobbies. I think you may have just inspired me to try this.
FYI Titebond Titebrush might come in handy.
Glu Bot is also invaluable.
I have almost bought that titebrush a couple times, always forget about it though. I do have a glu bot, just need to fill it back up, they are handy.
4:07 Stereo-Typical.
Man, that's a great name for a HiFi channel.
I bet somebody already has that. lol
Yep, I just Googled it. Of course it's already used.
There's one that's a podcast channel, and another small channel.
That would be a good one!
I always wonder why no one seems to use a small air nailer for the build process of a cabinet, just to help hold everything together till the glue sets up or until you can clamp it. Looks good!
Generally it’s just to avoid filling nail holes if you’re going for a paint finish but ya that does work well too.
I you are nervous about the open assembly time of Titebound 2 glue, like I was,, Titebound 3 gives you a longer open time and is superior strenght
Right on !
May I ask? You glued the boxes together without the front panel. Was there concern the front panel wouldn't have enough clearance to slip in afterwords? Thx.
It was definitely a concern going into it but decided to risk it for the design I was going for. Thankfully it all fit without issue.
Would it benefit the sound at all to use a silicone sealant for the cabinets?
Its certainly an option but as long as you use enough glue you should have a good seal. Also keep in mind these are ported so at the end of the day sealing these with a silicone may be a mute point.
@ I didn’t think of that. You’re right! 😂
build the gr research encores and compare them to this critons....that would be awesome. cant wait to see this critons finished
I just got hold of a pair of Tannoy Eatons from my wifes uncle, which were rotting away in his garage.The cabinets are toast, but miraculously, the drivers are intact and working, as are the electronics (though the crossovers and controls will need rebuilt, which I can do). If I had the skills, the tools, and the workspace, I would love to build new cabinets myself. As it is, I will need to recruit some help. They are too nice to bin or sell for parts. Happily my wife has lots of uncles, one of whom is a cabinetmaker.
I completely get that feeling, when I run into interesting gear from the 70’s it’s hard for me to just let it rot away. I picked up a complete system, receiver, turntable and speakers from a gentlemen who purchased it while deployed and brought it back to the US in the early 70’s, I fixed everything back up but truthfully don’t really have a use for it, still glad I bought it.
Which dust capture system do you recommend? Is that Festool?
I'd use a pva glue for assembly, you can just wipe off any excess with a damp cloth as long as it hasn't hardened yet. Also it doesn't expand.
The titebond II I used is also a PVA glue, it’s just difficult to wipe off when you have 120 clamps in the way like me haha. I agree though , it’s the way to go.
Let me make a guess ... The cost of the clamps total is more than the kit itself? Just curious.
I do have a decent amount in tools here like clamps but the good news is since kits like this are CNC cut you could actually put it together with tape and still get everything sealed up.
@MattCoykendall1 ... Doesnt answer my question. 😇
You nailed the spirit of the " You don't need pricey tools to make it ".. but I genuinely want to know.
I would say around 300 in clamps here, some second hand, some budget friendly harbor freight ones as well.
@@MattCoykendall1 .. 🙏🙏👍🏻👍🏻
Love the finish.. and the insight for applying veneer. Thank you. 🙏🙏
Good Job. Great tools, are you a carpenter or apprentice ?
None of the above, just a hobbyist who likes to dabble in woodworking.
Algorithm
Awsome work! Love the finish! I went with their Baltic Birch flat pack and finished it with Bee Nooba hard wax. It came out great! Here's the reason and the review on why I went with the brand th-cam.com/video/6zpJJri1XOM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xy0RLcUCZaM-4yBl
Edit: where is part II? 😆