Great video! My experience with BVS2 is about a 15% fail rate. I stopped using them and moved on to Copper Crimps with DryConn GTSR Connections. Never have to worry about call backs for a bad connection. Heat shrinks are awesome too!
Thanks for the nice summary. The Nano connectors also come as Micro and Macro. Basically, instead of being able to connect 3 12 gauge wires (or smaller) they can connect 5 and 8 respectively. I like the 8 for creating a hub and spoke wiring layout.
I have 26 lamps around the house on one main wire and don't like to cut the main wire for every lamp. Using those connectors that puts a pin through the main wire have worked now for more than 2 years, but in last months water is getting in and causing failed connections, even I used some liquid tape to seal it. I really love the idea of not cutting the main wire as it avoid any added resistance in all those T connections that become critical for my quantity of lamps on a single wire. So what is best solution for anyone who don't want to cut the main wire?
Disclaimer: I am not a contractor, which means I can spend as much time on my home projects as I need to, in order to get the job done the way I want to. There is no way anyone could make a living using my methods. What I did for my landscape lighting was to slip a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wires, solder the ends of the wires together, put some hot melt glue on the solder connection, slip the heat-shrink back over the connection, the hit it with a heat gun and wait until the hot melt glue squishes out of both ends. It takes time, but it creates a permanent connection that's mechanically sound, and 100% waterproof. Necessary tools: Milwaukee M12 cordless soldering iron, Milwaukee M18 cordless heat gun, and a generic M18 hot-melt glue gun (since Milwaukee doesn't their own yet).
Super helpful. Do you have any tips for what do to when a prior homeowner used the "puck/crimp" style ones that put holes in the wire? I'd prefer not to re-run the entire main wire line, so is there a good video or tip for "upgrading" to the BVS2s?
Which one would you recommend for 18 AWG sprinkler wires? Really want the connection to last...and thinking one of these (even though you mainly do lighting) would be good. Thank you!
Hi I just sent you a super sticker. Thank you for your great videos on low voltage landscape lighting. I tried to send a message on your website. I will try again as I have a question about a small lighting project with flush ground mount lights under small gravel - 12 V.
I’m trying to find low voltage waterproof wire connectors… it’s for connecting lights in a large fountain .. I’m trying to T off 10 lights that are underwater ???? Do you know of any????
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Love it! Landscape lighting is my new obsession!
Great video! My experience with BVS2 is about a 15% fail rate. I stopped using them and moved on to Copper Crimps with DryConn GTSR Connections. Never have to worry about call backs for a bad connection. Heat shrinks are awesome too!
Thanks for the nice summary. The Nano connectors also come as Micro and Macro. Basically, instead of being able to connect 3 12 gauge wires (or smaller) they can connect 5 and 8 respectively. I like the 8 for creating a hub and spoke wiring layout.
Yes, they are very versatile with aot of options. A little expensive but well worth the money long ter.
I have 26 lamps around the house on one main wire and don't like to cut the main wire for every lamp. Using those connectors that puts a pin through the main wire have worked now for more than 2 years, but in last months water is getting in and causing failed connections, even I used some liquid tape to seal it. I really love the idea of not cutting the main wire as it avoid any added resistance in all those T connections that become critical for my quantity of lamps on a single wire. So what is best solution for anyone who don't want to cut the main wire?
We have been expecting your new videos for a long time!
thank you nice and clear info
Thanks
great video 💪🏽
Thanks
Disclaimer: I am not a contractor, which means I can spend as much time on my home projects as I need to, in order to get the job done the way I want to. There is no way anyone could make a living using my methods.
What I did for my landscape lighting was to slip a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wires, solder the ends of the wires together, put some hot melt glue on the solder connection, slip the heat-shrink back over the connection, the hit it with a heat gun and wait until the hot melt glue squishes out of both ends. It takes time, but it creates a permanent connection that's mechanically sound, and 100% waterproof. Necessary tools: Milwaukee M12 cordless soldering iron, Milwaukee M18 cordless heat gun, and a generic M18 hot-melt glue gun (since Milwaukee doesn't their own yet).
Thanks!
Super helpful. Do you have any tips for what do to when a prior homeowner used the "puck/crimp" style ones that put holes in the wire? I'd prefer not to re-run the entire main wire line, so is there a good video or tip for "upgrading" to the BVS2s?
Which one would you recommend for 18 AWG sprinkler wires? Really want the connection to last...and thinking one of these (even though you mainly do lighting) would be good. Thank you!
Solder sleeves it’s what’s use on commercial aircraft
Hi I just sent you a super sticker. Thank you for your great videos on low voltage landscape lighting. I tried to send a message on your website. I will try again as I have a question about a small lighting project with flush ground mount lights under small gravel - 12 V.
Great
Tinned wiring is the best
I’m trying to find low voltage waterproof wire connectors… it’s for connecting lights in a large fountain .. I’m trying to T off 10 lights that are underwater ???? Do you know of any????