Really great tutorial. One of the best I have ever seen. Simple and really step-by-step informative. You have no idea how many guys you're helping out this video great job!
Thank You. You took the time to explain most things so I could understand them. Too many postees rush through, and it does not help when they important steps. Thank You again.
So many alleged mechanics try and tell you need to COMPLETELY disassemble your carbs and dip them when you do a cleaning. That is a nightmare compared to doing just what is necessary and appropriate for the bike you have,like what mrmaxstorey showed here. Good video,thanks.
ive been looking on youtube and the internet for about a week how to clean carbs and how to do it step by step and youve been the most helpful great video
I just bought an '89 Suzuki Katana, I can't wait to get into the carbs to smooth out the rough idle it currently has. Thank you very much for the video!
Excellent video! Just bought an 83 Nighthawk 650 that would die under 3000rpm...Previous owner left it sitting for ? years. It was so bad I had to drive it home with the choke on. I followed your video to the letter (the one on bench syncing also). Now she idles at 1100rpm...drives like a champ! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
Really informative and well thought out process. I think that if i get lost on re-assembling a carb, i got the next one to look at, sort of like a blue print! Thanks for posting this video.
mrmaxstorey, i finally got a bike. Been watching oyur vids now for about a year, building the courage to buy myself a bike. You inspired me to step out. I got a 1986 Yamaha xj700 maxim that I love!!!! hope you dont stay gone to long cause your vids are helpfull to us wanna b do it ur selfers. Ken
Hey man thank you so much, I have a1977 Kawasaki Kz 650, no shop wants to do the job, watching your video on how to clean carbs, I’m confident I can do the job my self in my Garage
Good morning @mrmaxstorey. I had a couple of questions about my 1982 Suzuki GS750. I watched a lot of your videos after I bought this bike and they were very informative. I appreciate you putting all them up there! After I bought it, I watched your videos on how to clean the carbs and other miscellaneous videos on how to take things apart. I changed the gasket on about everything except the cylinder head. I also took apart the carbs and cleaned them just like you did in the videos. I also bench synced them like you showed. I put everything back together and refilled it with new oil. After I primed the carbs and turned the petcock back to ON, I tried to start the bike up with the choke all the way open. It started fine and I pulled the choke back off but the bike still idled very high. Then gas started coming out of the carbs like it was over flowing somewhere. I turned the bike off and let it sit for about 15 minutes. I started it again and it still idled at a very high RPM even with the choke off and the idle adjustment screw being turned to the right or the left. I couldn’t get it to get below 3500 RPM. There was no more gas leak though. After about 5 minutes of trying to get the idle right, white smoke started to come from under the bike. It looked like it was coming from the carbs or at the carb boots. I immediately shut the bike off and put a fan to it so to try and cool it off. It stopped smoking but I was afraid to turn it back on so as to not damage anything. I did take the exhaust pipes off while changing a lot of the gaskets but I don’t think they were clogged because I felt a lot of air coming out of them while the bike was on. Also the clutch is very loose and it seems like the clutch doesn’t engage to put it in neutral. Could I have possibly messed something up in the crankcase cover that holds the clutch pin in? And about the carbs, could I have messed something up there? I tried to do the website thing but I couldn’t get a direct answer from it. I would appreciate your help!! Thanks so much man!
Id start with the carbs, and worry about the clutch adjustment later. Even if the bike is no longer overflowing, it was at one point, so the carbs will need to be recleaned, and the float heights properly adjusted. Its possible the bike was just burning off some crud or spilled fluid and thats what the smoke was, so mess with the carbs some more, bench sync them, and see if you can get it to behave. While you are in there do a compression test and let me know how it goes
mrmaxstorey thank you for your quick reply man, I really appreciate it! I am gunna try and get them recleaned this weekend so I will definitely let you know how it goes. As far as the clutch not being tight anymore, would that be a cable adjustment issue? I feel like the cover wouldn't have gone on if the pin wasn't aligned right. Right?! Again, I really appreciate your help and all your videos! They are definitely a life saver!
mrmaxstorey hey man, so I know its been awhile but I've had to work a bunch so I haven't been able to do a lot with the bike. I did fix the clutch, it was a cable issue so thank you! but I can not get the bike to idle right. when the bike is on the center stand after I put the carbs back on from cleaning, once I prime it and start the bike, it idles fine with the choke off which is weird. I adjusted the float height back to specs since it looked like the previous owner changed them. everything seems to be in place and cleaned thoroughly. but once I put the bike down from the center stand and it warms up a bit, the bike starts idling high at about 3,500. the mains have been changed since the PO took the airbox off and put pods on. it ran fine when I bought it, some sluggish throttle response but overall really good. I have checked the diaphragms for holes but everything looks good there. I just don't know what to do from here man. I could really use your help. I am gunna try Saturday to do the vacuum leak test you have on the intake boots to see if there is a leak there but I am just lost. Thank you for your previous help man, really appreciate your advice and videos!
***** It doesnt sound like the mixture is right. Check out my video on adjusting carburetor jets, towards the end I show a test on how to determine if you are rich or lean
The shop told me they charge an hour and a half per carb at $80 an hour and then $100 for a kit so $420. I think I will try to duplicate what you did here in this video first. Thanks for making it!!
For stubborn small and fragile screws, I found the quickest least invasive method of loosening them is by simply putting a blowtorch/lighter directly on them for 2 seconds, rubbing some wax in and then try unscrewing once it hardens. Hasn't failed me yet
Thanks a lot for this step by step video ! Brilliant explanations that helped me greatly in achieving the cleaning of my gsxf1100 carbs. I was curious, but a bit apprehensive, as I had no experience in this kind of work. Now my bike is purring like a cat ! Thanks again !
i didn't realize the true value of these vids until I pulled cleaned and replaced carbs over the last 2 days. Ratchet straps were a life saver. Shit would have gotten bad out there. If your ever are near minneapolis and need anything, place to crash, job reference, help moving whatever. Ill send you my number/email. Mechanical slide carbs are a little different huh. I think 80 was the last year honda made em so mine are very complex and mechanically. Cool as shit...three questions...
Dude, I'm so glad I found your channel! One of the best DIY moto restoration channels I've seen lately! Keep up the videos, you've got one more subscriber :) Thank you!
Another amazing video - thank you! One small point: WD-40 shouldn't be used as a lubricant, at least on its own. From what I've read, it's best used for getting rid of rust and the like. Then follow that up with a true lubricant. Anyway, good stuff - thanks again!
I saw a neat trick where if you find out that someone has reamed out the jets, you can reduce the jet size with solder. all you do is flux the jet, and melt a drop of solder into it with a torch. then just blow air through the jet so it reopens and a thin layer of solder is left behind, effectively reducing the jet size. haven't had to use it, but thought you might benefit from the knowledge
Wow, your video is one of THE most down to earth easy to understand video I have ever seen, well done. I have a '78 Kawasaki kz650 that has rough idle, (unfortunately, I put in Sea Foam d'oh) I have been nervous about getting into the carb (first time doing it), but with your video I have no worrys, hopefully I will have success, thanks much for your info :)
mrmaxstorey It went smooth as butter, was surprised how clean it actually was. I figured that the air screws were not adjusted together properly, runs real well except for some backfiring, I figure that I will have to adjust the air screws until it does not backfire. Thanks for your video, it was VERY helpful.
I know they cost a few bones, and not everyone has space for one, but I tell you the air compressor and shop-vac are two of the BEST tool investments I've made, and I have a fair amount of tools. I say this even though I almost never run actual tools on the compressor, primarily just air-chuck and tire filler. If you can swing it I'd recommend at least a little pancake compressor... maybe even Harbor Freight or Wallie World, as you don't need to spend a lot of money.
to loosen screws that may be stuck in place one can put the screwdriver in the screwhead and then impact it with a hammer . it gives the impact wrench treatment to a screw . hope I dont seem a know it all here and thanx for your vid . your great .
I might just... It's currently not running due to the carb situation, but digging through it last night, it looks like it just needs a little TLC. I'm intending to go Cafe racer with it, and really the bike is quite complete and seems to have good compression. I will let you know if I need any parts, or if I just need to pick your brain with mechanical questions. I appreciate it!
Great video. Just in the nick of time. Couldn't figure out why my Honda Pacific Coast would run but wouldn't idle. Turned out it was two clogged low speed jets. Bike had sat for a while with StaBil in the tank but forgot to run the carbs bowls dry. Thanks!
Cool thank! Watched a couple of your vids and saw how often it's used so I will be putting that on my list to grab before I star the major work on a great barn find I just got my hands on. Thank you your vids make motorcycle mechanics made easy!
Wonderful to watch on a friday night! You got me planning to get another bike this fall/winter to work on so I can do the carbs. I just got my honda back on the road this week to get some more riding experience - check it out if you get bored. I'm bricking going on the thing cuz it's been a coupla years. The thing is on my drive cos of you buddy :)
Note from watching this happen myself that when you do have to resort to using an impact driver to undo the float bowls or vacuum cap screws make sure you support the opposite side or you can break the corners off from the impact.
There are very few moving parts or places that grime can develop inside these carbs, so if a piece of grit gets blown inside its not such a big deal to get it out. I hear what you're saying and its a valid argument, but to me its not a differentiation I spend too much time worrying about
Yes most do, unless they are sealed from the factory. However, the screw only adjusts the mixture at idle. If you are fouling plugs, its far more likely that you have a rich running condition, caused by improper float heights, dirty air filters, improper jetting, improper timing, choke circuit stuck open, or perhaps oil burning a little
Thanks for the tip. There is a Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club here in the Twin Cities that I threw out a call to. I may have found someone local who has it. I appreciate the hook up though I may need that down the road.
Products like WD-40 are typically a mixture of a light neutral base oil (typically a 100SUS viscosity lubricant) and C9 solvent. The solvent helps carry the lube into tight spaces, but doesn't hang around long and leaves the lube behind. Eventually the lube will go as well.
Hey bro thanks for the video , i have a CB 360 that's been sitting for about 30 years and I hope I can clean them out like you did and it works out..lol..it's also good to know that you do not have to replace the parts when you clean the carbs...
@@MultiCarlosRodriguez if you have problems with hard vacuum slide diaphragms, soak them in wintergreen rubbing alcohol you find at rite aid and itll bring them back from shriveled to supple again
1- Yes 2- Pretty good! I love the work and I'll definitely be seeking similar employment after our move. 3. Usually its not a problem, however if you do have to clean it, I use rubbing alcohol and then blast it with my air compressor
one thing i'd like to add. on the main jet, after removing that you can actually push the cylinder out. i know as i had to take the carb out 4 times of my Suzuki GS250FW as it didn't want to start properly, the problem was with that cylinder that has like 6 tiny wholes that were all plugged up. It purrs like a kitten now:D
Yeah, I hear ya. That forum and the writeups got me through my very first carb cleaning on my GS850, about 10 years ago. Perhaps over the years Ive gotten lazier and omitted some of the steps that I didn't find were very necessary. There are some guys who only do it like that, some guys who use ultrasonic cleaning, etc, and then guys like me who do it quick n dirty
Great vid, I have a 1985 Kawasaki zl900, carbs are in need of cleaning, one of the floats keep sticking, never done this myself, bit will be giving it a try.
Hey Max! Awesome video! I think the fellas over at GS Resources would be up in arms at your methods, though! They have a very good guide on rebuilding these carbs and recommend that the carbs be completely separated and disassembled (including the mixture screws under the seals on top!) and _all_ metal parts dunked in a can of carb dip for at least a few hours. Rebuild kits for these carbs are junk, but you can (and should) get a new set of o-rings since the originals are rarely in good shape.
Well you said before that the plug are wet. This means that one or more are not firing in the cylinders, so I don't think turning on the fuel screw is going to help much. Put the screw settings back to stock. Really scrub up the screws with some sandpaper. Gap them appropriately. Do the carbs again, making sure that all slides are good, jets are clear, floats are at the right height. Do a float bench test, fill the carbs with gas and make sure they don't overflow. Then...
A old trick on paper gaskets on float bowls is to lightly coat 1 side, usually bowl side with chapstick, it will let you remove the bowl again without tearing the gaskets
It's a good video... He's good... I prefer to have the carburetors cleaner when I started cracking them open they look pretty filthy on the outside that way the inside stays clean and none of that filth gets on the inside of the car..
Thank You. My Honda CM 450E would start and run with choke on but would die as soon as the throttle was turned. I cleaned the carbs and now she runs again. There is still some hesitation though.
Great vid Max! Quick note from experience though, be very careful using an impact driver to get the diaphragm top and float bowl screws out on carbs like these, I used one trying to get the screws out on my old Kawasaki 550 CV carbs many years ago, more or less like these, and although I didn't whack it too hard (I thought!), I managed to snap a top corner off one of the bodies! Ouch! Expensive mistake! Use the spring grips or drill it out!!!!
Thanks for sharing your wisdom. On one of your vids you mentioned a site where you can purchase replacement jets but I can't seem to find it. Can you repeat it for me? Thanks again.
It is when the fuel line runs too close to the hot engine. When the engine heats up, it warms the fuel which turns into a gas, forms a bubble, and prevents or partially prevents liquid gasoline from flowing through the fuel line
I was just watching this because I was bored really, but I learned something new! thanks alot. on my moped I'll be using before I get a bigger bike. I have a carb with 3 jets. and I hate it. have no idea of what they do, it wont pull right and stuff like that. i had one bedre with just one jet, and it was working flawless! but I'm missing a part for it, so I cant use it. but anyways. nice video :) !
I would advise cleaning or replacing the spark plugs, they may have gotten wet and fouled and are no longer sparking good. This often happens after carburetor work.
Just want to say I really appreciate your videos. Really detailed and easy to understand for new guys like me. I do have one question though, is it necessary to clean the diaphragms? If so, what type of solution will not damage them? Ive read that pine sol is safe? Pulling my carbs on Friday, figured Id ask. Thanks!
Thanks so much for all your vids as they have helped me greatly with trying to tackle things myself. I do have a question though. I have a 1997 Suzuki Bandit which only fires on the first three cylinders. I have checked compression which is 120psi, have a new spark plug, have a great spark, cleaned carbs, checked carb bowls are three quarters full of fuel but am still not getting the fourth cylinder working? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
If you are concerned about it you can take all the diaphragms out first, no harm in that. But really I dont see very much carb spray going into the fuel inlet, over to the next carb, down through the needles, into the bowls, up into the main jet, past the slide needle, around the metal slide, and up to the diaphragm.
Thats a major bummer man. Vibrations of the motor will eventually cause that crack to grow, and it will break all the way, causing that carb to flood. Some guys use JB Weld to fix it, but thats a temporary solution and the best solution is to replace that one carb body
This is a well-done video by a pro. You are a pro; definitely. I have a question: my throttle slide works as if there is no spring. What I mean is there are no "whooshy" sounds when I push it up. And I don't have much compression in it. What should I do? By the way, this is a 1981 Yamaha Maxim 650 carb.
Very helpful video. You make it look easy. I’m afraid I’ll take things apart and not be able to get them back together correctly. Lots of little parts in there. If I take off the carbs on my cb 750 to clean them, do I need to synch them afterward with one those syncing tools? I don’t have one of those, but I guess I should get one now that I own an older bike. Thanks.
Well done. Would have appreciated seeing how you handle the emulsion tubes. Darn. Also, I'd like to know how to clean the choke circuit intake brass tube that sucks fuel from the bottom of the float bowl on an '89 FJ1200. I'm afraid that ethanol crap has clogged it up leaving the chokes non-functional. Any suggestions welcomed! Thanks again.
Before you tear down, wash the whole assembly with a degreaser (simple green, purple power, etc). Carb cleaners dont work on dirt-dirt. they remove oils and other dirty petroleum products. Besides it helps keep the crud from getting into everything you are taking apart.
Awesome video! I was just wondering tho: my bike is '01 has 30k, runs fine. Not sure if the carbs were ever cleaned. Would you recommend cleaning them for good measure?
Great video man. what was the aerosol can you used at the end to clean the gunk off of the outside of the carb? or was that just the carb cleaner as well?
Great video. Question: 1993 Suzuki GSX1100G vs 1998 Honda CB750 Nighthawk. Looking to buy one or the other. Suggestions? Is one particularly easier or harder to work on? Easier or harder to find parts for? Both have about 48K miles and appear to be in decent shape. Thanks for any guidance you may have.
Both great bikes, I say ride them and see if you like the sport or standard ride better. The only major difference is removing the plastics to get to the motor on the katana, something you dont have to do to service the nighthawk, but its not hard and not a big deal.
Check that there are no pinched cables, the idle knob is set correctly, the intake is all hooked up with air filter properly attached, and that the slides are able to move free with the "whoosh whoosh" sound
Really helpful video. I have a 1982 GS 1100G with Mikuni's almost the same as the ones in the video. I can't get 2 of the pins out that hold the floats. Even by tapping them gently. I have also tried squeezing them with needle nose pliers. Any other suggestions?
I think I was being too careful with the hammer. I was afraid of breaking the posts. After a good soaking of WD40 I was able to whack them out. Thanks again.
Hey thanks for the video I'm about to do this to cbr 600 f3 n I'm kind of scared but Ima go for it. This really helped and I've been watching ur other videos to get more info. Thanks again.
Ace Medina Cool let me know how it goes for you. For mor einfo about the components of your bike you can look at the cbr600 f3 assembly video I did where I built your bike from the frame up
To avoid stripping out the tops of Philips/crosscut screws on Japanese products, but a set of Japanese Industrial Standard(JIS), screw drivers. The Japanese's Philips is a different blade depth, angle and width than US Philips. You don't get full penetration into the head of the Japanese screw using a US Philips, thus you are only in contact with a small portion of the upper wall of the crosscut. Using the correct JIS crosscut screwdriver will allow full penetration into the screw slot, thus allowing full wall contact between screwdriver blade and screw. No more stripping out the tops of screws. Don't run to your favorite parts store, or tool outlet, looking for JIS drivers, you'll only get a duh with a blank stare. You can buy them online from different sources, not that expensive, and it will save your screws!
There's a lot of ' how to clean carburetors ' videos on the internet. This one is the best. Many thanks.
No, is not the best.
never cleaned a carburator...watched this video and cleaned my in line 4 the following day with ease..thanks brother
Really great tutorial. One of the best I have ever seen. Simple and really step-by-step informative. You have no idea how many guys you're helping out this video great job!
Thank You. You took the time to explain most things so I could understand them. Too many postees rush through, and it does not help when they important steps. Thank You again.
You have given me hope! I have searched the whole internet and this video is the very best. No skipping, just good video! Thanks man!
So many alleged mechanics try and tell you need to COMPLETELY disassemble your carbs and dip them when you do a cleaning. That is a nightmare compared to doing just what is necessary and appropriate for the bike you have,like what mrmaxstorey showed here. Good video,thanks.
inkydoug l
ive been looking on youtube and the internet for about a week how to clean carbs and how to do it step by step and youve been the most helpful great video
I just bought an '89 Suzuki Katana, I can't wait to get into the carbs to smooth out the rough idle it currently has. Thank you very much for the video!
Excellent video! Just bought an 83 Nighthawk 650 that would die under 3000rpm...Previous owner left it sitting for ? years. It was so bad I had to drive it home with the choke on. I followed your video to the letter (the one on bench syncing also). Now she idles at 1100rpm...drives like a champ!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome
Your Motorcycle Medic website is pure gold.
Exactly what I needed. Very informative and great camera work too. Thank you for doing this video for us.😁
Really informative and well thought out process. I think that if i get lost on re-assembling a carb, i got the next one to look at, sort of like a blue print! Thanks for posting this video.
After pulling my carbs 8 times I FINALLY got my bike running right. Thank you mrmaxstory...thank you. Time to ride!!!
mrmaxstorey, i finally got a bike. Been watching oyur vids now for about a year, building the courage to buy myself a bike. You inspired me to step out. I got a 1986 Yamaha xj700 maxim that I love!!!! hope you dont stay gone to long cause your vids are helpfull to us wanna b do it ur selfers. Ken
Wow, this was awesome. I'm buying an old motorcycle soon and this kind of stuff is just what I need to know. You're a great teacher.
Hey man thank you so much, I have a1977 Kawasaki Kz 650, no shop wants to do the job, watching your video on how to clean carbs, I’m confident I can do the job my self in my Garage
Good morning @mrmaxstorey. I had a couple of questions about my 1982 Suzuki GS750. I watched a lot of your videos after I bought this bike and they were very informative. I appreciate you putting all them up there! After I bought it, I watched your videos on how to clean the carbs and other miscellaneous videos on how to take things apart. I changed the gasket on about everything except the cylinder head. I also took apart the carbs and cleaned them just like you did in the videos. I also bench synced them like you showed. I put everything back together and refilled it with new oil. After I primed the carbs and turned the petcock back to ON, I tried to start the bike up with the choke all the way open. It started fine and I pulled the choke back off but the bike still idled very high. Then gas started coming out of the carbs like it was over flowing somewhere. I turned the bike off and let it sit for about 15 minutes. I started it again and it still idled at a very high RPM even with the choke off and the idle adjustment screw being turned to the right or the left. I couldn’t get it to get below 3500 RPM. There was no more gas leak though. After about 5 minutes of trying to get the idle right, white smoke started to come from under the bike. It looked like it was coming from the carbs or at the carb boots. I immediately shut the bike off and put a fan to it so to try and cool it off. It stopped smoking but I was afraid to turn it back on so as to not damage anything. I did take the exhaust pipes off while changing a lot of the gaskets but I don’t think they were clogged because I felt a lot of air coming out of them while the bike was on. Also the clutch is very loose and it seems like the clutch doesn’t engage to put it in neutral. Could I have possibly messed something up in the crankcase cover that holds the clutch pin in? And about the carbs, could I have messed something up there? I tried to do the website thing but I couldn’t get a direct answer from it. I would appreciate your help!! Thanks so much man!
Id start with the carbs, and worry about the clutch adjustment later. Even if the bike is no longer overflowing, it was at one point, so the carbs will need to be recleaned, and the float heights properly adjusted. Its possible the bike was just burning off some crud or spilled fluid and thats what the smoke was, so mess with the carbs some more, bench sync them, and see if you can get it to behave. While you are in there do a compression test and let me know how it goes
mrmaxstorey thank you for your quick reply man, I really appreciate it! I am gunna try and get them recleaned this weekend so I will definitely let you know how it goes. As far as the clutch not being tight anymore, would that be a cable adjustment issue? I feel like the cover wouldn't have gone on if the pin wasn't aligned right. Right?! Again, I really appreciate your help and all your videos! They are definitely a life saver!
*****
Yeah probably a cable issue
mrmaxstorey hey man, so I know its been awhile but I've had to work a bunch so I haven't been able to do a lot with the bike. I did fix the clutch, it was a cable issue so thank you! but I can not get the bike to idle right. when the bike is on the center stand after I put the carbs back on from cleaning, once I prime it and start the bike, it idles fine with the choke off which is weird. I adjusted the float height back to specs since it looked like the previous owner changed them. everything seems to be in place and cleaned thoroughly. but once I put the bike down from the center stand and it warms up a bit, the bike starts idling high at about 3,500. the mains have been changed since the PO took the airbox off and put pods on. it ran fine when I bought it, some sluggish throttle response but overall really good. I have checked the diaphragms for holes but everything looks good there. I just don't know what to do from here man. I could really use your help. I am gunna try Saturday to do the vacuum leak test you have on the intake boots to see if there is a leak there but I am just lost. Thank you for your previous help man, really appreciate your advice and videos!
*****
It doesnt sound like the mixture is right. Check out my video on adjusting carburetor jets, towards the end I show a test on how to determine if you are rich or lean
Thank you so much for your video. My wife just bought a 1980 Suzuki GS850, that'll be my project for her first bike.
2013 vid, but still the best today for my ancient 1984 650 Katana - Thanks a lot!
Went online to check your channel because I am about to clean my carbs for the kz1100 and I found this updated video. Thank you very much
The shop told me they charge an hour and a half per carb at $80 an hour and then $100 for a kit so $420. I think I will try to duplicate what you did here in this video first. Thanks for making it!!
Looks like you have a ton of experience "buffing the needle". I think I'm gonna go lay down and buff my needle now.
For stubborn small and fragile screws, I found the quickest least invasive method of loosening them is by simply putting a blowtorch/lighter directly on them for 2 seconds, rubbing some wax in and then try unscrewing once it hardens. Hasn't failed me yet
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. very informative and well laid out.
Thanks a lot for this step by step video ! Brilliant explanations that helped me greatly in achieving the cleaning of my gsxf1100 carbs. I was curious, but a bit apprehensive, as I had no experience in this kind of work. Now my bike is purring like a cat ! Thanks again !
Hey thats awesome!
i didn't realize the true value of these vids until I pulled cleaned and replaced carbs over the last 2 days. Ratchet straps were a life saver. Shit would have gotten bad out there. If your ever are near minneapolis and need anything, place to crash, job reference, help moving whatever. Ill send you my number/email. Mechanical slide carbs are a little different huh. I think 80 was the last year honda made em so mine are very complex and mechanically. Cool as shit...three questions...
Awesome to have the real time on this. Thank you so much!!
Dude, I'm so glad I found your channel! One of the best DIY moto restoration channels I've seen lately! Keep up the videos, you've got one more subscriber :)
Thank you!
Another amazing video - thank you! One small point: WD-40 shouldn't be used as a lubricant, at least on its own. From what I've read, it's best used for getting rid of rust and the like. Then follow that up with a true lubricant. Anyway, good stuff - thanks again!
I saw a neat trick where if you find out that someone has reamed out the jets, you can reduce the jet size with solder. all you do is flux the jet, and melt a drop of solder into it with a torch. then just blow air through the jet so it reopens and a thin layer of solder is left behind, effectively reducing the jet size. haven't had to use it, but thought you might benefit from the knowledge
Finally I know how to put the choke bracket back on! Forgot how it went when I pulled the carbs off my Katana GS550m LOL!
Wow, your video is one of THE most down to earth easy to understand video I have ever seen, well done.
I have a '78 Kawasaki kz650 that has rough idle, (unfortunately, I put in Sea Foam d'oh) I have been nervous about getting into the carb (first time doing it), but with your video I have no worrys, hopefully I will have success, thanks much for your info :)
Good luck let me know how it goes
mrmaxstorey
It went smooth as butter, was surprised how clean it actually was. I figured that the air screws were not adjusted together properly, runs real well except for some backfiring, I figure that I will have to adjust the air screws until it does not backfire. Thanks for your video, it was VERY helpful.
coleman9081
OK thanks for watching
I know they cost a few bones, and not everyone has space for one, but I tell you the air compressor and shop-vac are two of the BEST tool investments I've made, and I have a fair amount of tools. I say this even though I almost never run actual tools on the compressor, primarily just air-chuck and tire filler. If you can swing it I'd recommend at least a little pancake compressor... maybe even Harbor Freight or Wallie World, as you don't need to spend a lot of money.
to loosen screws that may be stuck in place one can put the screwdriver in the screwhead and then impact it with a hammer . it gives the impact wrench treatment to a screw . hope I dont seem a know it all here and thanx for your vid . your great .
Best video I've seen. When you said cross thread though I was like wtf no! Don't try to cross thread them 😂
just bought a 1979 cb400T Hawk1, followed along with the clean, good job
Need any parts? I have a ton of old Hawk stuff lying around
I might just... It's currently not running due to the carb situation, but digging through it last night, it looks like it just needs a little TLC. I'm intending to go Cafe racer with it, and really the bike is quite complete and seems to have good compression. I will let you know if I need any parts, or if I just need to pick your brain with mechanical questions. I appreciate it!
notthebread
Sounds good, best of luck with it
Great video. Just in the nick of time. Couldn't figure out why my Honda Pacific Coast would run but wouldn't idle. Turned out it was two clogged low speed jets. Bike had sat for a while with StaBil in the tank but forgot to run the carbs bowls dry. Thanks!
Cool thank! Watched a couple of your vids and saw how often it's used so I will be putting that on my list to grab before I star the major work on a great barn find I just got my hands on. Thank you your vids make motorcycle mechanics made easy!
You sir, are one of the most helpful humans on the inter webs, thank you!!!!
Wonderful to watch on a friday night! You got me planning to get another bike this fall/winter to work on so I can do the carbs. I just got my honda back on the road this week to get some more riding experience - check it out if you get bored. I'm bricking going on the thing cuz it's been a coupla years. The thing is on my drive cos of you buddy :)
Note from watching this happen myself that when you do have to resort to using an impact driver to undo the float bowls or vacuum cap screws make sure you support the opposite side or you can break the corners off from the impact.
There are very few moving parts or places that grime can develop inside these carbs, so if a piece of grit gets blown inside its not such a big deal to get it out. I hear what you're saying and its a valid argument, but to me its not a differentiation I spend too much time worrying about
Cereal boxes work good to make gaskets for your bowl
Yes most do, unless they are sealed from the factory. However, the screw only adjusts the mixture at idle. If you are fouling plugs, its far more likely that you have a rich running condition, caused by improper float heights, dirty air filters, improper jetting, improper timing, choke circuit stuck open, or perhaps oil burning a little
Thanks for the tip. There is a Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club here in the Twin Cities that I threw out a call to. I may have found someone local who has it. I appreciate the hook up though I may need that down the road.
Products like WD-40 are typically a mixture of a light neutral base oil (typically a 100SUS viscosity lubricant) and C9 solvent. The solvent helps carry the lube into tight spaces, but doesn't hang around long and leaves the lube behind. Eventually the lube will go as well.
Dude...you said "fixin to clean them" and for like 5 seconds i thought i was back in texas in the middle of DFW where we lived for 12 years XD
Hey bro thanks for the video , i have a CB 360 that's been sitting for about 30 years and I hope I can clean them out like you did and it works out..lol..it's also good to know that you do not have to replace the parts when you clean the carbs...
After watching your video, I'm going to have a crack at my 650 Maxim..Thanks for sharing this
Hey buddy I just read your comment I have a 650 Maxim how did your carpet cleaning job come out?
@@luisvasquez2245 3 years later and I begin the same quest!
@@MultiCarlosRodriguez if you have problems with hard vacuum slide diaphragms, soak them in wintergreen rubbing alcohol you find at rite aid and itll bring them back from shriveled to supple again
Thanks for posting. I'm getting ready to tear into a seton carbs from a 1984 Suzuki GS1100GK and this video will come in handy.
Will be cleaning the carbs on my 02 ZX7R now! Thanks for this video!!
just got my first bike, this video is a huge help. thank you
When I took my carbs apart the plastic floats were broken been fun trying to match up replacements here in the uk
1- Yes
2- Pretty good! I love the work and I'll definitely be seeking similar employment after our move.
3. Usually its not a problem, however if you do have to clean it, I use rubbing alcohol and then blast it with my air compressor
one thing i'd like to add. on the main jet, after removing that you can actually push the cylinder out. i know as i had to take the carb out 4 times of my Suzuki GS250FW as it didn't want to start properly, the problem was with that cylinder that has like 6 tiny wholes that were all plugged up. It purrs like a kitten now:D
Thanks for the video. Helped me with my 77 suzuki gs750. Only has 6800 miles on her.
Yeah, I hear ya. That forum and the writeups got me through my very first carb cleaning on my GS850, about 10 years ago. Perhaps over the years Ive gotten lazier and omitted some of the steps that I didn't find were very necessary. There are some guys who only do it like that, some guys who use ultrasonic cleaning, etc, and then guys like me who do it quick n dirty
Great vid, I have a 1985 Kawasaki zl900, carbs are in need of cleaning, one of the floats keep sticking, never done this myself, bit will be giving it a try.
Hey Max! Awesome video! I think the fellas over at GS Resources would be up in arms at your methods, though! They have a very good guide on rebuilding these carbs and recommend that the carbs be completely separated and disassembled (including the mixture screws under the seals on top!) and _all_ metal parts dunked in a can of carb dip for at least a few hours. Rebuild kits for these carbs are junk, but you can (and should) get a new set of o-rings since the originals are rarely in good shape.
Well you said before that the plug are wet. This means that one or more are not firing in the cylinders, so I don't think turning on the fuel screw is going to help much. Put the screw settings back to stock. Really scrub up the screws with some sandpaper. Gap them appropriately. Do the carbs again, making sure that all slides are good, jets are clear, floats are at the right height. Do a float bench test, fill the carbs with gas and make sure they don't overflow. Then...
Impact driver work sooooo amazingly well
Thanks for the posting the video, I think I'm ready to tackle the carbs on my newly acquired 83" GS 750L
A old trick on paper gaskets on float bowls is to lightly coat 1 side, usually bowl side with chapstick, it will let you remove the bowl again without tearing the gaskets
You scared me when you said "I like to cross-thread them."
TheNeckasaurus Boo
It's a good video... He's good... I prefer to have the carburetors cleaner when I started cracking them open they look pretty filthy on the outside that way the inside stays clean and none of that filth gets on the inside of the car..
Thank You. My Honda CM 450E would start and run with choke on but would die as soon as the throttle was turned. I cleaned the carbs and now she runs again. There is still some hesitation though.
Great vid Max! Quick note from experience though, be very careful using an impact driver to get the diaphragm top and float bowl screws out on carbs like these, I used one trying to get the screws out on my old Kawasaki 550 CV carbs many years ago, more or less like these, and although I didn't whack it too hard (I thought!), I managed to snap a top corner off one of the bodies! Ouch! Expensive mistake! Use the spring grips or drill it out!!!!
Yikes!
Thanks for sharing your wisdom. On one of your vids you mentioned a site where you can purchase replacement jets but I can't seem to find it. Can you repeat it for me? Thanks again.
jetsrus.com
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Thank you so much for this video I have an 82 gs650 and it uses the same carb set up and this video helped a ton.
It is when the fuel line runs too close to the hot engine. When the engine heats up, it warms the fuel which turns into a gas, forms a bubble, and prevents or partially prevents liquid gasoline from flowing through the fuel line
Good work, and thanks for the good video. Now i know how to clean the carbs on my CBX650.
Cheers!
I was just watching this because I was bored really, but I learned something new! thanks alot. on my moped I'll be using before I get a bigger bike. I have a carb with 3 jets. and I hate it. have no idea of what they do, it wont pull right and stuff like that. i had one bedre with just one jet, and it was working flawless! but I'm missing a part for it, so I cant use it. but anyways. nice video :) !
If you want to uncork it you can and try to clean it out, but it must be re-plugged before you close the carbs back up
This is going to help a bunch when I throw a set of these on my car!
thanks for helping me get my 1986 yamaha fz600 sport bike running!
Awesome video. I did that work, my bike is very smooth now.
Thank you for share that knowlage, u save me some money.
I would advise cleaning or replacing the spark plugs, they may have gotten wet and fouled and are no longer sparking good. This often happens after carburetor work.
Subbed man, just bought a '94 gsxr 750 yesterday as a project bike. Thanks for the vids!
Awesome bike!
Awesome Video man! Rf600r Has carb issues and i wasn't sure how to do it. Your video was super helpfull
Just want to say I really appreciate your videos. Really detailed and easy to understand for new guys like me. I do have one question though, is it necessary to clean the diaphragms? If so, what type of solution will not damage them? Ive read that pine sol is safe? Pulling my carbs on Friday, figured Id ask. Thanks!
Another great video Max, hope to see a new one soon
Thanks so much for all your vids as they have helped me greatly with trying to tackle things myself. I do have a question though.
I have a 1997 Suzuki Bandit which only fires on the first three cylinders. I have checked compression which is 120psi, have a new spark plug, have a great spark, cleaned carbs, checked carb bowls are three quarters full of fuel but am still not getting the fourth cylinder working? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
If you are concerned about it you can take all the diaphragms out first, no harm in that. But really I dont see very much carb spray going into the fuel inlet, over to the next carb, down through the needles, into the bowls, up into the main jet, past the slide needle, around the metal slide, and up to the diaphragm.
Thats a major bummer man. Vibrations of the motor will eventually cause that crack to grow, and it will break all the way, causing that carb to flood. Some guys use JB Weld to fix it, but thats a temporary solution and the best solution is to replace that one carb body
This is a well-done video by a pro. You are a pro; definitely. I have a question: my throttle slide works as if there is no spring. What I mean is there are no "whooshy" sounds when I push it up. And I don't have much compression in it. What should I do? By the way, this is a 1981 Yamaha Maxim 650 carb.
great video cleaned mine but the slides have absolutely zero vacuum think i need to just replace those diaphragms?
Try re-seating them if you can
Very helpful video. You make it look easy. I’m afraid I’ll take things apart and not be able to get them back together correctly. Lots of little parts in there. If I take off the carbs on my cb 750 to clean them, do I need to synch them afterward with one those syncing tools? I don’t have one of those, but I guess I should get one now that I own an older bike. Thanks.
Usually not unless you change the settings while you are cleaning it
Well done. Would have appreciated seeing how you handle the emulsion tubes. Darn. Also, I'd like to know how to clean the choke circuit intake brass tube that sucks fuel from the bottom of the float bowl on an '89 FJ1200. I'm afraid that ethanol crap has clogged it up leaving the chokes non-functional. Any suggestions welcomed! Thanks again.
+SoulDaddy33 Squirt with carb cleaner, squirt with air
Before you tear down, wash the whole assembly with a degreaser (simple green, purple power, etc). Carb cleaners dont work on dirt-dirt. they remove oils and other dirty petroleum products. Besides it helps keep the crud from getting into everything you are taking apart.
your videos help a lot, keep making the how to vidoe's I love them, and subscribed ! Kind regards Joe
Awesome video! I was just wondering tho: my bike is '01 has 30k, runs fine. Not sure if the carbs were ever cleaned. Would you recommend cleaning them for good measure?
Great video man. what was the aerosol can you used at the end to clean the gunk off of the outside of the carb? or was that just the carb cleaner as well?
+C Flux Yeah same stuff
+mrmaxstorey great. thanks man.
Great video. Question: 1993 Suzuki GSX1100G vs 1998 Honda CB750 Nighthawk. Looking to buy one or the other. Suggestions? Is one particularly easier or harder to work on? Easier or harder to find parts for? Both have about 48K miles and appear to be in decent shape. Thanks for any guidance you may have.
Both great bikes, I say ride them and see if you like the sport or standard ride better. The only major difference is removing the plastics to get to the motor on the katana, something you dont have to do to service the nighthawk, but its not hard and not a big deal.
Check that there are no pinched cables, the idle knob is set correctly, the intake is all hooked up with air filter properly attached, and that the slides are able to move free with the "whoosh whoosh" sound
very informative and to the point. great video thanks for sharing
Really helpful video. I have a 1982 GS 1100G with Mikuni's almost the same as the ones in the video. I can't get 2 of the pins out that hold the floats. Even by tapping them gently. I have also tried squeezing them with needle nose pliers. Any other suggestions?
Hmm that usually does the tick for me. Make sure to soak them down liberally with carb spray, wiggle the float back and forth, and try again
I think I was being too careful with the hammer. I was afraid of breaking the posts. After a good soaking of WD40 I was able to whack them out. Thanks again.
Hey thanks for the video I'm about to do this to cbr 600 f3 n I'm kind of scared but Ima go for it. This really helped and I've been watching ur other videos to get more info. Thanks again.
Ace Medina Cool let me know how it goes for you. For mor einfo about the components of your bike you can look at the cbr600 f3 assembly video I did where I built your bike from the frame up
To avoid stripping out the tops of Philips/crosscut screws on Japanese products, but a set of Japanese Industrial Standard(JIS), screw drivers. The Japanese's Philips is a different blade depth, angle and width than US Philips. You don't get full penetration into the head of the Japanese screw using a US Philips, thus you are only in contact with a small portion of the upper wall of the crosscut. Using the correct JIS crosscut screwdriver will allow full penetration into the screw slot, thus allowing full wall contact between screwdriver blade and screw. No more stripping out the tops of screws.
Don't run to your favorite parts store, or tool outlet, looking for JIS drivers, you'll only get a duh with a blank stare. You can buy them online from different sources, not that expensive, and it will save your screws!
your video was a great help to me also easy to follow. tnx