Iam lost hear, at first you said a coating causes a raised area that causes water to pool and causes that area to rust. Then you go and apply a thick layer around all the screws with silicone. Won't that thick layer of silicone cause water to pool on the top area of all those screws and cause that area to rust out eventually. I mean your doing the very same thing that you said should not be done in the first place
blocking a seam in straight line will hold off water but screws desperately need sealing and a rounded area will not hold water that much, also he is using large dabs, i would just use very compact and little material just barely going around the screws
You my man Flat Roof Doctor! Every coated roof I have inspected has had the same problems you describe in your videos. Installation defects are disturbingly common, even in new construction. Question: How would you coat or seal a galvanized metal roof with surface corrosion throughout the panels? I have never seen it done correctly and typically recommend my clients install sheathing over the metal and a PVC, TPO or EPDM membrane over the sheathing.
We have a metal roof nailed on the rib that have been subsequently sealed with silicone caulk. Because of that our only option is to coat the roof with silicone. I hope being on the rib will allay the issue you found here.
I like what you did. However I would have gone over the entire roof afterwards with an aluminum coat or elastomeric coating. Depending on what the owner wanted. I’m sure you presented that as an option, but maybe unnecessary lip stick on a pig considering it needed replacement eventually.
So, question, Dr: 1. Should you cover the fastener, generally, with anything or leave it as it is? 2. overlaps, should they be sealed, generally, ( with tape or cement or silicone ) or left unsealed?
I think fasteners should all be covered to protect the neoprene washer from drying out and cracking. On this roof we found that all the screws and washer were pretty good, so we did not have to replace them. The leaks were because water was trapped around the screws causing rust. Seams should not be sealed on slanted roofs but would be good to seal it on relative flat roofs. Water can back up on flat roofs into the seams but not on high pitch roofs
Only roof coating for a roof that's good is aluminum roof coating . My roof with acrylic coating now has silver dollar size air bubbles all in it where it's seprerated from the metal . That's $400 I'll never get back
The metal came with a protective coating from the manufacturer. The only time you want to paint a metal roof, is when the protective coating is not good anymore and rust start to show up everywhere.
Then can you please tell me, what was used as the protective coating from the manufacturer? I would really like to know, so I could re-apply it if possible, when it is not good anymore.
If you were to build a home with a slight slope like 1/2 inch pitch what kind of roof would you put on it? Metal? Rubber membrane, 2 layer peel and stick roll roofing, ipo?
1/2 " pitch is too little for anything to be called sloped. You need a 3" pitch to make it worth it. Then the choice of material will also depend on other factors. Climate, weather, obstacles on the roof, and maintenance as in cleaning leaves and other debris. 1. I like metal roofs, but the panels have to be 1 continuous panel from top to bottom. 2. I like Peel and Stick, but you must know how to install around penetrations and flashings. 3. I like TPO, but the tools and equipment are expensive, and details do matter. 4. I don't like EPDM, I think it is the worst I think it is more important to find a roofer that knows what he is doing and that specializes in any one of the materials. That would be the key to getting the best roof. Not many roofers that fit that category
what a disaster that roof is. i bet it was expensive to coat and now even more expensive to tear all that stuff off and re-do with something else. i did mine with henry tropicool (100% silicone). hopefully that lasts a good while.
I just finished a 12k sq. steel roof with Henry's Acrylic 10 year coating...if you pressure wash it properly and your base coat gets a good bond you will be fine. The greatest attribute is the metal itself doesn't heat up which causes all of the exspansion and contraction which backs out the screws and opens cap seams etc... this guy is showing a roof that was coated probably 20 years ago.
I'm buying a double-wide in Florida, the last time the roof was replaced was 2012. I want to give it a Rubberized coating - what Product should I use please??
Strongly disagree. From the looks of the roof coating that was done they did a HORRIBLE job. Looks like they did not seal any seams or fasteners before coating. Hell they probably did not even use a primer coat. 100% silicone or elastomeric coating work great if done properly. Acrylic is definitely a no go.
Henrys elastomeric / Acrylic is fine IF you do the prep work....GOT TO pressure wash every inch and remove and replace any screws that are even questionable...I just finished a 12k square steel building it came out beautiful.
Iam lost hear, at first you said a coating causes a raised area that causes water to pool and causes that area to rust. Then you go and apply a thick layer around all the screws with silicone. Won't that thick layer of silicone cause water to pool on the top area of all those screws and cause that area to rust out eventually. I mean your doing the very same thing that you said should not be done in the first place
blocking a seam in straight line will hold off water but screws desperately need sealing and a rounded area will not hold water that much, also he is using large dabs, i would just use very compact and little material just barely going around the screws
You my man Flat Roof Doctor! Every coated roof I have inspected has had the same problems you describe in your videos. Installation defects are disturbingly common, even in new construction. Question: How would you coat or seal a galvanized metal roof with surface corrosion throughout the panels? I have never seen it done correctly and typically recommend my clients install sheathing over the metal and a PVC, TPO or EPDM membrane over the sheathing.
U said don’t seal joints ??? And you seal them in all videos ????😢
This guy just saved the owner alot of money and now hes bob villa.
Im coating my metal roof.
We have a metal roof nailed on the rib that have been subsequently sealed with silicone caulk. Because of that our only option is to coat the roof with silicone. I hope being on the rib will allay the issue you found here.
I like what you did. However I would have gone over the entire roof afterwards with an aluminum coat or elastomeric coating. Depending on what the owner wanted. I’m sure you presented that as an option, but maybe unnecessary lip stick on a pig considering it needed replacement eventually.
Great job, thanks for the video!
What about the metal you exposed grinding
So, question, Dr:
1. Should you cover the fastener, generally, with anything or leave it as it is?
2. overlaps, should they be sealed, generally, ( with tape or cement or silicone ) or left unsealed?
I think fasteners should all be covered to protect the neoprene washer from drying out and cracking. On this roof we found that all the screws and washer were pretty good, so we did not have to replace them. The leaks were because water was trapped around the screws causing rust.
Seams should not be sealed on slanted roofs but would be good to seal it on relative flat roofs. Water can back up on flat roofs into the seams but not on high pitch roofs
Only roof coating for a roof that's good is aluminum roof coating . My roof with acrylic coating now has silver dollar size air bubbles all in it where it's seprerated from the metal . That's $400 I'll never get back
The $400 is nothing in materials. It is the labor to try and fix things after the mistake
How would you change the color of your metal roof?
40.000 six days , that’s 😂pretty good my dude , feel me ?
silicone coating ?
But the metal will start to rust in a various other places if it is not protected with something..
The metal came with a protective coating from the manufacturer. The only time you want to paint a metal roof, is when the protective coating is not good anymore and rust start to show up everywhere.
Then can you please tell me, what was used as the protective coating from the manufacturer?
I would really like to know, so I could re-apply it if possible, when it is not good anymore.
I thought you were supposed to change/retighten roofing screws every 10 years or so.
With this stuff, maybe they don’t loosen. In 10 years, maybe they grind off the paste.
There’s other videos where you say using silicone is good
In other videos you use the poly seal. In which cases should you use silicone patch vs the polyurethane patch?
If you were to build a home with a slight slope like 1/2 inch pitch what kind of roof would you put on it? Metal? Rubber membrane, 2 layer peel and stick roll roofing, ipo?
1/2 " pitch is too little for anything to be called sloped. You need a 3" pitch to make it worth it. Then the choice of material will also depend on other factors. Climate, weather, obstacles on the roof, and maintenance as in cleaning leaves and other debris.
1. I like metal roofs, but the panels have to be 1 continuous panel from top to bottom.
2. I like Peel and Stick, but you must know how to install around penetrations and flashings.
3. I like TPO, but the tools and equipment are expensive, and details do matter.
4. I don't like EPDM, I think it is the worst
I think it is more important to find a roofer that knows what he is doing and that specializes in any one of the materials. That would be the key to getting the best roof. Not many roofers that fit that category
what a disaster that roof is. i bet it was expensive to coat and now even more expensive to tear all that stuff off and re-do with something else. i did mine with henry tropicool (100% silicone). hopefully that lasts a good while.
I just finished a 12k sq. steel roof with Henry's Acrylic 10 year coating...if you pressure wash it properly and your base coat gets a good bond you will be fine. The greatest attribute is the metal itself doesn't heat up which causes all of the exspansion and contraction which backs out the screws and opens cap seams etc... this guy is showing a roof that was coated probably 20 years ago.
@@josephmythen3844 yeah, mine's been good so far. Also lucked out before prices exploded...
Would you recommend on seams
I'm buying a double-wide in Florida, the last time the roof was replaced was 2012. I want to give it a Rubberized coating - what Product should I use please??
Super Silicone Seal. There is nothing that comes close to that
How many people in 6 days?
Looks like my house. Do you work in U.P. Michigan?
Strongly disagree. From the looks of the roof coating that was done they did a HORRIBLE job. Looks like they did not seal any seams or fasteners before coating. Hell they probably did not even use a primer coat. 100% silicone or elastomeric coating work great if done properly. Acrylic is definitely a no go.
Henrys elastomeric / Acrylic is fine IF you do the prep work....GOT TO pressure wash every inch and remove and replace any screws that are even questionable...I just finished a 12k square steel building it came out beautiful.
I’ve herd a thing or 2 cause you’ve said a thing or 2 blah blah blah 😅
You forgot your eye wear 🤦🏽♂️