I’ve loved the model engine series; we get to see theory and practice pertaining to full-size machining work, except scaled down to the smallest workable engines. It’s like the best of all worlds and I can’t wait to see what’s on for a sequel!
Hi Mark, thanks for the brilliant work! I just finished watching the Titan series, and the bits where you were talking about the stormy weather coming in were especially poignant (greetings from Lismore!). I have a little Taipan 1.5cc twin ballrace from the same era, and you have inspired/prodded me into restoring it. I ran the little bugger for so many hours as a callow youth that the con rod bushing hole is visibly bigger than the crank pin, so a new one is in order. Incidentally, the engine had been gummed up for some 30 years, but Ed Holly, who designed the Holly Buddy 2.5cc engine, advised me to simply use a heat gun to free it up. That works like magic, and you may like to pass on that tip to your viewers.
Thanks and well done for getting your old Taipan running again. I hadn't thought about using heat to free up the engine. Good tip. I hope you weren't flooded too badly. We are very fortunate to live on top of a ridge so we never have to worry about flooding. Fire maybe but it's just our gardens and road that suffer in the heavy rain. Lismore really copped it this time. Regards, Mark
Mark, your production quality and presentation are improving with every posting. Thank you for keeping with it! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with next.
Takes me back Mark. I still have a Taipan 1.5cc diesel engine I purchased in the 60's. Dome shaped cylinder cooling (alloy - red) I was really keen on model aircraft. I will again watch your videos with interest!!
I didn't make the Turnado freehand turning attachment. I bought it from Eccentric Engineering. www.eccentricengineering.com.au/shop/The-Turnado-Freehand-Metal-Turning-System-c46075015 I have seen versions made in a home shop but the commercially available kit is very well engineered and reasonably priced. They don't sponsor me but I am a very satisfied customer. Regards, Mark
My father was mates with Gordon Burford and they were founders of the Constellation Model Flying Club. My father used to make his own engines including a diesel and a petrol engine with spark plug. I remember seeing them as a child, but they have been lost. I still have my first 2.5cc Taipan glow plug engine attached to my first control line plane.
It's great that you still have the aircraft. My parents disposed of all my models when I left home to start my teaching career. I am sure that Gordon Burford was well known in the model aircraft community. I have been very surprised by the love for his engines and his support for the hobby. Regards, Mark
You need a vapor blaster for those aluminum parts. Make it look brand new easily. It's amazing how well they clean up aluminum without hurting the surfaces.
I was almost sure that we were going to get to see you take apart the P-trap underneath the sink , but I’m glad you didn’t have to . Speaking from experience those little parts get pretty yukky down there . 😉 !
Hi Mark, I still have a Taipan 2.5 diesel from the 1960's. I built & crashed many planes when I was young but the engine always survived. Found some fuel in Melbourne a couple of years ago and it started & ran ok on the bench
Hi Mark. I loved watching you working on that engine. When I was a young lad I was in to model plane's and engine's. I've still got an old Frog 500 glow plug engine and a diesel Cox Pee Wee and both still run. Looking forward to the next episode.
That little Tyro was truly a rugged little engine. It survived many a vertical landing and more than once I picked dirt out of the venturi and the exhaust ports. Regards, Mark
I find your videos very interesting, as mentioned before. Well presented, but more importantly you explain the techniques very well. The preparation to perform a task is beyond the norm. You do not rush the job. This is what makes your channel unique. Well in my eyes it is. Really enjoy your quality channel.
Thanks Graham. The thing is that I enjoy what I do. Some of my earliest memories are of me making things. My aim is to encourage others to do the same. I believe that making things is good for one's mental health. Regards, Mark
Oh, Mark, you're overwhelming me with nostalgia tonight. Back in the early '70s my brothers and I flew control line planes in the (US) back yard, with various Cox .049 engines. I'll bet our engines were a lot more beat up than your Tyro. Special shout out to Colin, for teaching us the proper pronunciation for Toowoomba, too!
Robert, the nostalgia is strong with the topic of model aircraft. I too have very fond memories of building and crashing many, many planes. Good fun. Regards, Mark
The Turnado is such a joy to watch. I really must invest in one. Enjoyable beginning to what promises to be an interesting restoration. Thank you Mark 👏👏👍😀 Andrew
Well, who knew that model aircraft engines were so universally popular? Certainly I didn't know it at the time I started the Titan series. Regards, Mark
I remember Taipan glass filled nylon props the shaped looked cool. In the UK the beginners go to engine was the PAW ( Progress Aero Works) 1.5cc Diesel. I too love the smell of ether paraffin and castor oil!
Tony, I couldn't help taking the cap off that fuel and having a good sniff. I must say it smelled a bit fishy but I don't know what sort of oil Colin used in it. I do recall the Aeroflyte fuel we bought was quite clear and had a very sharp smell. Regards, Mark
You’re the milk man. Loving it! I think I’m mostly watching you for your ease and honesty. I’m a scientist (bio-medical engineering) and about 10 or 15 years or so (guessing) behind you in live. I hope I will find purpose like you do in my retirement. Greetings from Philadelhpia USA from a German expatriate. Appreciate the nature that surrounds you.
Thanks Hans. I can thoroughly recommend retirement. If you have a hobby you enjoy you will look forward to every day. Making things is good for one's mental health. Regards, Mark
G’day Mark I can remember these engines when I was flying RC when I was 16 now I’m 65 . My first engine was a 10cc Enya and it was a beautiful engine, I really like your channel as I am still interested in RC engines particularly the older ones. You have a great channel and I have subscribed and look forward to watching many more, thank you for showing this engine and how you went about restoring it. Kind regards John
Thanks John. I must say I have been very surprised by the enthusiasm and nostalgia demonstrated by model aircraft engine enthusiasts out there. When I was going to school it seemed like there were just a handful of us who flew planes regularly. Regards, Mark
Good Show Mate: Cleaning up something and restoring it to work is a thrill. I have done it many times because it was the only way I could afford to do what I wanted to. At the time buying new stuff didn't seem to be on the agenda. Interesting to see what the fuel for a diesel model airplane engine is. Patiently waiting for the start up on this engine.
Thanks. I just finished up anodising the cooling fins and the spinner today and it goes into reassembly tomorrow. I've even made a mid century modern display stand for it. Regards, Mark
I have one still I bought new in mid seventies the only difference is mine has a black head and I thought it was 2.5 cc Great to see you work on this engine
I think the version with the black anodised head was a later model than the one I have. Later still they added a spring wire tensioner against the compression screw. Regards, Mark
I remember seeing these advertised in Aeromodeller mag. Diesel fuel should have a couple of percent amyl nitrate to help it run better. We used to make our own at school. Amyl nitrate was hard to get as it's a heart medicine. But one of our schoolmates' father was a dispensing chemist... Castor oil is a great lubricant. But gums up the engines with varnish very quickly. We used 20W/50 motor oil. Worked well. You're really taking me back. I've still got 2 PAW diesels and an Oliver Tiger from the 60s. There's a little Cox glow motor as well somewhere.
I used to buy the Aeromodeller magazine regularly. It was interesting to look at all the advertisements for different engines in the back pages. I recall that the Super Tigre racing engines looked super exotic and unobtainable given my meagre pocket money at the time. I did check out a few recipes for home brew diesel fuel when I realised it was hard to buy commercially available fuel and it was interesting to see the substitutions you could make to get a workable fuel. Regards, Mark
Brillant video, Mark! And your new outfit looks fantastic too. Have a great weekend and thank you for this interesting restoration project. Greetings from Germany. Cheers Ulf
Hi, I recently came across a Tyro engine which looks similar to the one you have, but it has a piece of wire running across the head alongside the T plug. Thanks for the great info. think I need to do more digging to find out more about this.
Another great watch thank's Mark. Yep, brave not having the plug in the sink :-). I use ethylene glycol in a pot, and simmer the engine bits in that for an hour or so. Really gets rid of the goo, especially the gummy castor. A sink of warm water, dish washing liquid and a tooth brush takes care of any left overs. Cheers Pete' New Zealand.
Thanks. I realised afterwards that my clumsy fingers may have let one of those parts end up in the S bend. I do have a strainer and I should have used it. Luckily, no engine parts were harmed in the process. So, I just googled ethylene glycol and found out that it's anti-freeze. I must say I have never had anything to do with it before possibly because we live in a subtropical climate! I also read that it's quite toxic but I have probably used far worse products before. I guess the Ajax is cheap and easy to get. Thanks for watching. Regards, Mark
Gday Preso, what an awesome video, Colin has a great collection there and I could imagine the amount of knowledge that this gentleman has, my Mum has an aircraft engine somewhere in her house, I did ask her about this when you were building the titan 60 but so far she hasn’t found it, fingers crossed it’ll show up, thanks for sharing mate, throughly enjoyed watching, cheers
Thanks Matty. I had so much fun with that engine when I was a kid I thought it should be restored and put on display. I gave my Taipan 3.5cc glow engine to my nephew and I'm pretty sure he lost it or dumped it. I wish I still had it now. Regards, Mark
Mark, most of the old diesel engines that I owned had a locking lever for the compression adjusting screw as these were known to unscrew them selves when running. I can't remember if Taipan engines had them. I was always careful to replace the piston and liner in the same orientation as original when reassembling as they are a run in fit and due to airflow over the cooling fins wore unevenly.
Gary, the later iteration of the Tyro engine had a wire spring which was fitted into holes on both sides of the cooling fin cap. It kept the compression screw from vibrating loose although on my engine which had no such device, I cannot remember it being a problem. I didn't realise that there would be uneven wear on the cylinder liner and to be honest I didn't mark the orientation when I dismantled the engine. I guess the wear would even out but the engine most likely won't run again. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 Hi Mark, I have not seen the spring retainer but I only ever had a couple of Taipans, a 1.5 and 2.5 from memory. Most of the engines I had were glow plug OS motors but I think there is still a Mills diesel somewhere. I should get them out and clean them up and properly preserve them.
After this engine it would to see what is takes a old spark plug engine running. In high school I did some guy's back home work for a spark plug model engine. I bought the ignition kit, but could never get it to run. That guys model shop looks like Moyer's Model Shop Lebanon, Pa. USA in the early 1960's. Great video
David, I would like to build a multi cylinder petrol engine one day. I have a book by E.T. Westbury with lots of good designs. Perhaps a future project but I have a ton of other jobs on the to do list in the meantime. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 My first job was working on airplanes. One of people who's airplanes I worked on built a P51 engine (about 8 inches long) that ran. He built everything down to the spark plugs. This is in the mid 1970's. His home shop had no special equipment. This is before DRO's. On the lathe he used the compound feed set at a very low angle to get his proper cut. When making the crankshaft he nicked one balance weight. The crank was finished, but that night he could not sleep. That nick kept him awake. He went to his shop and cut the crank in half. He went to bed and started a new one the next day.
Long ago I used glass beads to prepare metal for paint. I had problems with silica dust, so I changed to plastic media. Basically the holes punched out of plastic buttons in a very large drum. It was a LOT more expensive than glass beads, but it solved my silica dust problem and didn't etch the metal surface. It was so successful for my purpose, that I used it to clean zinc cast carburetor bodies. It never caused any problems the silica did, never changed casting dimensions, never clogged any holes or threads, and never damaged a tool used to clean holes and threads. Might be worth a shot if you really want to preserve the original casting but still get it immaculately clean.
What I have found is that the glass bead produces almost no dust compared to crushed glass and garnet. Although I have a vacuum attached to the blast cabinet, I find it's hardly necessary when using the glass bead media. Also, the beads don't fracture so they don't break down into smaller particles. The process I would really like to try is vapour blasting which uses high pressure water mixed with air and crushed glass. It's perfect for die cast parts as used on motorcycles. Check out this channel for some examples of how it works th-cam.com/users/ArnoldsDesign Regards, Mark
Wow that is awsome! Very cool that you are doing a restoration! I am a rc pilot and I love the challenge of doing restorations. Especially nitro engines. Hey I will keep watching after this though! I really enjoy your videos.
Cool Aussie engine! I always wanted a go at a Diesel but keeping two fuels stocked seemed a hassle. My mom used to scrub the porcelain off the tubs with that abrasive cleaner. Seeing you scrubbing parts with it prompted me to look for a can last time I was at the market. I was surprised they still make the stuff here. A can of Comet set me back $0.88 US! Apparently inflation hasn't reached 100 year old cleaning products yet, haha.
I have heard from a number of viewers that Ajax is getting hard to find. I couldn't get any last time I looked in Woolworths but put it down to Covid and supply chain issues. I found it at another grocery store and maybe I should stock up on it since it is a very good metal cleaner and grease remover. I actually saw that tip on Dan Gelbart's channel and I regard him as the ultimate guru of engineering. If you haven't seen his channel you can get it here th-cam.com/users/dgelbartvideos Regards, Mark
People often puncture spray cans of quick start fluid inside another container to gather the Ether. Since it is tricky to acquire. The Davis diesel conversion heads always intrigued me. I never did acquire one.
I had never heard of the Davis conversion heads before but I just googled it. It's interesting that people might want to convert a glow motor to diesel. Back when I was flying model planes, the diesel engines were considered to be inferior to glow engines although I felt that not having to lug a battery with you was a big plus. Regards, Mark
Back in the late 70s when I was in college (and really had better things to do), I got a kit to mount a Cox .049 drive train from a dune buggy to a toy tractor to make a puller. When this farm boy heard about a diesel head for it, I just had to have one! The tiny recoil starter really tore up my fingers trying to start that temperamental thing, but I was thrilled when it did run. Thanks for bringing back the memories!
I have only just learned about the diesel conversion heads for some glow plug engines. I always felt that the diesel engines were the poor cousins in the model engine families. However, diesels will start without too much paraphernalia like glow plugs and batteries so maybe that was the attraction. Regards, Mark
I'm looking forward to this. My first experience of a model engine was a diesel. I hated it. Almost impossible to start. When it did start after about three hours, it ran away and blew out the compression screw thread. It was impossible to control. When I moved over to a glow plug engine it was night and day. Why anyone would bother with a model diesel is beyond me. However, looking forward to this.
That seems odd. I ran that engine for several years and from what I remember it started and ran quite well. I only stopped using it because I grew out of the hobby. I did transition to a glow plug engine but the requirement to lug a battery around was what inspired me to start with a diesel. Just need fuel and a flicking finger! Regards, Mark
I preferred diesels, and found them easier to start. Yes, the power weight ratio wasn’t as good as a glow plug, but the airframe didn’t need fuel proof varnish. I didn’t have to carry around a starter battery, and I could mix my own fuel.
I ran mine a couple months back after a 20 something year rest. Started after only a couple flicks. Ran it on mix of castor oil, kerosene and John deer starter fluid(ether).
And we start a new, very promising, adventure🙂 Those parts you resurfaced certainly look better than originally. Colin does stock an impressive lot of model engine and aircraft parts - would be worth a visit, if not so far away. I'm curious how you will clean between the cylinder cooling fins - I would use a brass strip with a size slightly thinner than the gaps and polishing compound.
Jose, I am just about to start on the cylinder cap tomorrow. I have made a threaded mandrel to go in the lathe and I can screw the cap onto it to clean up the surfaces. I will try to clean in between the fins with some sort of sanding stick. I am not sure how that will work but I also have an aluminium brightener which is a nitric acid dip. It should clean up the oxidation but it won't polish the surface. Regards, Mark
Best model engine cleaner I have ever used is K2R microwave oven cleaner. It is a non caustic formulation & foams when sprayed on the parts. Old castor oil will just disapear befor your eyes. Leave for a few minutes & scrub any very tough stains (burnt on castor oil) with a toothbrush or stiff brush. Wash off with COLD water. Your alloy parts witll look like new. When disassembling an engine it is a good idea to use some heat (i.e. a heat gun) to soften old castor oil.
@@Preso58 Great. Let me know if you are impressed with the cleaning results after using K2R. Remember not to leave it on any longer than say 5 minutes on aluminium parts ( also, it can fade anodized parts & remove certain engine paints) & to use cold water to rinse
Hi Preso, I didn’t see you mark the conrod, gudgeon pin, piston or cylinder head when you disassembled the engine. Hopefully you can determine exactly the orientation of the parts when you reassemble the engine as all of those parts have running surfaces mated to each other through the break in process. You also don’t seemed to have removed to contra piston… Not sure if you simply not got around to it yet. When you do run the engine you will probably need to explain a bit about the tuning of the compression screw and the needle valve. As with the plug heat in the Titan, this is about timing of the combustion and getting a clean burn rather than an explosion (pre detonation or pinking)
Stuart. it's fair to say I have forgotten a lot about starting and running this engine. I am hoping it comes back to me. I haven't removed the contra piston but it is free to move up and down in the liner and it's still a good tight fit. I didn't mark the orientation of any of the parts but given that it will only run for a short time I think it will be OK. I just want to show it running and then it will go into a display case that I have for some of my other engines. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 Hi Mark, in which case you'll just have to follow the normal break in procedure i.e. short runs at first and keep it rich so it doesn't rev too hard. You would normally prime through the exhaust port, back off the compression screw a quarter turn and then flick the prop until your arm hurts... When the thing eventually decides to run then tighten down the compression screw just a little. Basically you're flicking the prop whilst simultaneously holding the compression screw. When it's running, the aim is to get the engine running at full revs (after break in) with the minimum compression and leanest fuel mix. So basically you've got one hand adjusting the compression screw and the other adjusting the needle valve. Hours of fun, almost better than flying 🙂. These old diesels are usually painful if you're not eperienced with them. The best of the bunch came (arguably) from Irvine in the 90's where they used an ABC construction (Aluiminium piston, Brass liner Chrome plated). The liner was tapered to the top when cold so that when at running temperature it becomes parallel due to the thermal gradient down the liner. These were quite docile engines for diesels and throttled well (not an easy feat given they are a compression igntion engine and the compression ratio varies when you throttle an engine. You're not up there tweaking the compression screw when you change the throttle setting). The advantages of the diesel are that your glow plug battery is never flat, your glow plug never burns out, the fuel lasts twice as long (so you get the same flight times with a smaller fuel load) and the fuel smells better (or is that the smell of nostalgia). Also you're not handling methanol which is a cumulative poison which is absorbed through your skin and destroys your liver (amongst other things). At least with Kerosene you'll 'only' get dermatitis... I look forward to watching you start the Taipan (and don't be tempted to use anything other than your finger or a chicken stick...) Oh, one last thing, the diesel fuel won't last long in a plastic bottle as the ether will evaporate through the plastic. It really needs to be kept in a tin with a tin lid. If the ether content reduces in the fule then you'll never get it to start. Believe me, I've flicked one of these things for hours with old fuel...
Hi Mark It's a pity that the mounting holes have been drilled out why they drilled out holes I do not know not hard to find the correct size bolt, I did fly these engines many years ago when I started in control line, Keep up the good work great job Regards Wayne (Oasis Model Engine Repairs & Restoration.)
Wayne, the mounting holes are just a bit worn. They weren't drilled over size. The tops of the holes have indentations where the screw heads would have clamped down onto the mounting flanges but I measured them today and they are still very close to 1/8" although slightly oval shaped. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 Ok thank you Mark, Just looks like they where drilled out in the video hard to tell sometime with video's. Anyway if you need any help with model engines at anytime you can find my contact details on RC Trader under services I know you have your friend not far away but I may know something he does not and vice versa, and thank you again for the video's I will keep watching.
Ian, I did build a very large RC vintage style high winged monoplane about 15 years ago. Months in the building and just 15 minutes in the air before the wing collapsed and it fell to the ground in a flurry of balsa wood and solarfilm. I still have the wreckage under the house to remind me that I shouldn't try it again. Regards, Mark
Hi Mark: At 24:00, is that the "Acute" tool sharpening table from Eccentric Engineering? If so, how do you like it. I have a set of the plans and want to do one (as soon as the shop is set up again). Thanks, Bob
Bob, the tool that I used is the Turnado freehand turning system with the tracer arm option. www.eccentricengineering.com.au/shop/Turnado-With-The-Lot-p178595904 I did look at purchasing the acute tool sharpener but bought a Deckel clone tool and cutter grinder instead. The Turnado is a lovely tool and easy to use. Regards, Mark
Great video Mark - it was a real trip down memory lane for me. As a boy (nearly sixty years ago) I had one of those engines, complete with white propellor and aeroflight fuel tank. It fitted into a balsawood "Mustang" control line model plane. I cut my fingers several times on the sharp edge of the propellor and always found the motor hard to start. The compression setting was very finicky. Gordon Burford was an associate of my grandfather who was a precision engineer in Adelaide. My grandfather was taught by Gordon how to use the new automatic grinding machine he had purchased and was using to make various precision tools back in the 1950's. Thank you for this video. I loved it.😀
Wow! That's cool. From what I gleaned from the book, Gordon Burford must have been a prolific and very committed engineer and businessman. I recall seeing that Mustang kit on the display shelves where I bought my Tyro engine. It was beyond my budget but some years later I scratch built a P40 Kittyhawk which flew beautifully. Fun times indeed. Regards, Mark
Good Evening Mr. Presling. Di-ethyl Ether can be purchased from Science Essentials in Brisbane. Not too sure of the quantities it comes in though. If you're really stuck, I have several litres of the stuff that I use for various chemistry processes but I am not too sure about how I might get it to you.
Thanks for that offer. I do have a small quantity of diesel fuel which is sufficient to test run the engine. Once I get it to run it will go into a cabinet as a display. My flying days are over I am afraid. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 My days of flying are over too. Been too long since I put a boot full of rudder in and I would never pass the flight medical. Getting too old.
I did find it was hard to get in Woolworths last time I went looking for it. I guess it's probably a bit old fashioned nowadays. I did get a supply though. Maybe I should stock up before it goes away for good. Regards, Mark
Ron, the original plane was a Taipan Trainer supplied in kit form by Aeroflyte. Here is a link to the design. I recall that it was very hard to fly and on my first attempt I stacked it and broke the engine mounts off at the bulkhead. The maiden flight must have lasted just minutes. picclick.co.uk/Aero-Flyte-Taipan-trainer-mk-1-and-mk-133367506713.html#&gid=1&pid=1 Regards, Mark
Brandon. I bought a set of three of these tools from Burfitt tools here in Australia. They supplied a brass, fibreglass and a steel version in a set of three. I used the brass one on the Tyro engine. burfitt.com.au/product/scratch-brush-set-3-steel-brass-fibreglass/ They are great for delicate cleaning jobs in tight spaces. Regards, Mark
Nice engine .. deserves to be restored .. am a little disappointed that I didn't see it come to life in this video yet. ;) And I'm envying that guys collection there. I have only 41 engines in varying states of disrepair so far, and nothing really special. For some, I should also combat the oxidation. Unfortunately I have no beadblasting equipment, and no lathe. It's a little sad that all those manufactures are going away. Started flying in 2002, and well .. Webra is gone, Super Tigre went out of business and came back a few years producing in China, but now seems to be gone for good, too. MVVS stopped doing small (glow/diesel) engines at some point. OS has sadly discontinued a significant part of their portfolio, especially in the small displacement section (due to less demand, of course) Sanye (the one behind thes "brand" Magnum, ASP, SC engines and a lot of "store brands" .. all the same thing with different labels) has stopped doing RC engines, too. And then I go on sceptreflight and see lots of names, long gone and mostly forgotten. Can be depressing at times. While the modern electric drives are really nice, and certainly the way to go if you just want to FLY .. they are just .. boring in a way. The growing legal issues around glow engines don't help either.
I didn't realise there were legal restriction on model aircraft engines. I do recall that we were banned from flying on the high school oval because of the noise. A nearby resident complained to the Principal and that was the end of our flying days. None of us were old enough to drive and the nearest club was miles away. Some of the names you mentioned do bring back memories of reading through the old Aeromodeller magazines. Happy days! Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 I live in Europe and they love rules .. the more complicated, the better. They made fuels over 16% NM (per weight, thats 12-13% per volume) illegal recently. You need a "semi-official" document (can be issued by certified persons in your flying club) documenting the noise level. This technically becomes invalid as soon as you change the make of the airscrew on it. So many people who would be interested in it for the fun of it don't even bother and stay electric.
Interestingly, I mentioned the first plane I built to Colin Maybury and he immediately knew the name of the kit. It was called the Taipan Trainer and I was able to find the original plans for it. Regards, Mark
Another excellent video mate! I know little to nothing about model aircraft engines. Never heard of running one on diesel! And... the little 'T' handle in the glow plug hole... what is that for? Also a shout out to Colin.. another valuable resource. Cheers!
Jay, the screw in the cylinder cap is to adjust the compression of the engine. It bears down on a "contra piston" fitted to the top of the cylinder liner. Lowering the compression makes it easier to start the engine and then once it's running you can screw the contra piston down into the combustion space to make the engine run more efficiently. Regards, Mark
Very lovely video and channel.I am sure, you know my channel as well...I love the Taipans and have a lot of them,,,Just will work soon on a MK 4 rear valve engine, but must cast the front housing,as it is missing. Many best regards to Australia mate! Peter
Peter, I had been watching a few of your videos, particularly the anodising content. It's amazing how many manufacturers got into model aircraft engines. Keep up the great work. Regards, Mark
I was surprised that there was just the one spacer inside the piston and now I don't know which side it came from but it would serve no purpose being on the side closest to the prop so I can assume it is to prevent too much rubbing against the back plate. There is no discernible wear on the back plate, just some minor scuffing so It must be doing some good. Regards, Mark
This video was great, I really enjoy watching your videos especially when it involves model engines, RC, and CNC. I’m currently in the process of restoring an OS MAX FP 40. Unfortunately the piston was seized in cylinder sleeve and required an extensive WD40 soak time to remove the sleeve. I also found that the wrist pin was seized in the piston and at the con rod which forced me to cut the con rod to remove the piston. With further inspection I learned that the piston sleeve was chrome plated and the con rod appears to be a stamped part. I was considering purchasing NOS piston, sleeve and con rod but the materials used for these parts are substandard in my opinion. I think I will make these parts from Duracast for the piston, Aluminium bronze for the con rod and possibly D.O.M. for the sleeve. I would prefer to use a material that would have better wear resistance but not sure what I would use. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone.
From the little experience I have had in building the Titan engine, I would think that most of the materials you have listed would be fine. I do believe that aluminium bronze can be brittle though. Maybe a good wrought aluminium alloy would be better for the connecting rod. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 I think the aluminium alloy they use for chain rings on lightweight bikes would be a good choice. It will be tough and also wear resistant as it needs to be for the stress and strain it gets all the time. Not tried it and not sure if it will be thick enough.
I usually get it from IGA or Woolworths. Last time I looked in Woolies though the shelves were empty. Could be a supply chain issue but it's probably a bit old fashioned for some consumers. Regards, Mark
Chris, I didn't remove the contra piston. It is free to move and still quite tight as it should be but I felt it was best to leave it in place. I will talk more about that part of the engine in the next video. Regards, Mark
dear mark hi my name is clinton, loved the video. i have a few engines my self. i was wondering if i could get in contact with colin as i am seeking a few parts. and infomation on some engines, i have k&b engine tiapan enya and a hirtenberg which i think is now longer available.looking forward for the next vid as i am a beginner to see how to fix and restore these engines. kind regards clinton
Clinton, I did ask Colin if he would be interested in taking on requests for engine repairs and parts and he agreed. If you email me at mark.presling@gmail.com I can forward your email to Colin. He may charge for his time or parts but you can negotiate directly with him. Regards, Mark
What liquid did you put in your sandwich bag in the ultrasonic cleaner? I pick 16 motors 6 months ago. A lot diesels, for $40AUD. woman want $200, they were her father's. A lot my mates were interested but didn't want part with 200 as it looks like they been under water. My son collects old motor he got nice collection. I forgot all about them until I saw it video. I thinking either Puting ATF in a sandwich bag with a whole motor or mix of atf and acetone (if it doesn't eat the bag/ or jar) Puting it in my ultrasonic cleaner, until I have time to get around to looking at them. Cheers Graham
I use "Simple Green" concentrate from Bunnings. It is a citrus based cleaner and it's relatively cheap. I just wash it down the drain when it's used. We have a home sewage treatment plant and it's safe for that system. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 ur simple green is orange the one I seen at Bunnings is green. They do you have a special order for a commercial grade simple green. 4l makes 40l are you just using it neat?
The Taipan Tyro share most of its design with the Titan 60 engine. But I assume it is just the best/cheapest way to make a model airplane internal combustion engine.
From what I have seen with three different engines (the other is a Fox Control Line Special from the 1960's) they all have similarities. The Fox is just a slightly smaller version of the Titan but the cooling fins around the liner are cast integrally with the crankcase which makes it a bit harder to assemble. Regards, Mark
Hi Mark, I'm trying to track down a PB engine 0.33cc made by Peter burford, Gordon's burfords son. He made a very small batch of engines, but were made exceptionally well. Would you happen to have one you're willing to part with? Or know someone who would?
Sorry, I only have the one Taipan engine left. I did have a 3.5cc glow engine but I gave it to my nephew and I suspect he never did anything with it. I would try getting in touch with one of the model aircraft clubs to see if you can find an enthusiast. Regards, Mark
Always a good day when I get to watch one of your videos. Thank you.
I’ve loved the model engine series; we get to see theory and practice pertaining to full-size machining work, except scaled down to the smallest workable engines. It’s like the best of all worlds and I can’t wait to see what’s on for a sequel!
Great episode, thanks.
Braver man than I cleaning a small part over a sink. Very interesting video as always.
I know! Luckily, no engine parts were lost.... this time.
Regards,
Mark
I was thinking the same! 😄
Hi Mark, thanks for the brilliant work! I just finished watching the Titan series, and the bits where you were talking about the stormy weather coming in were especially poignant (greetings from Lismore!).
I have a little Taipan 1.5cc twin ballrace from the same era, and you have inspired/prodded me into restoring it. I ran the little bugger for so many hours as a callow youth that the con rod bushing hole is visibly bigger than the crank pin, so a new one is in order. Incidentally, the engine had been gummed up for some 30 years, but Ed Holly, who designed the Holly Buddy 2.5cc engine, advised me to simply use a heat gun to free it up. That works like magic, and you may like to pass on that tip to your viewers.
Thanks and well done for getting your old Taipan running again. I hadn't thought about using heat to free up the engine. Good tip. I hope you weren't flooded too badly. We are very fortunate to live on top of a ridge so we never have to worry about flooding. Fire maybe but it's just our gardens and road that suffer in the heavy rain. Lismore really copped it this time.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, your production quality and presentation are improving with every posting. Thank you for keeping with it! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with next.
Takes me back Mark. I still have a Taipan 1.5cc diesel engine I purchased in the 60's. Dome shaped cylinder cooling (alloy - red) I was really keen on model aircraft. I will again watch your videos with interest!!
I LOVE that free-turning set up you made!! Fabulous bit of kit!
I didn't make the Turnado freehand turning attachment. I bought it from Eccentric Engineering. www.eccentricengineering.com.au/shop/The-Turnado-Freehand-Metal-Turning-System-c46075015
I have seen versions made in a home shop but the commercially available kit is very well engineered and reasonably priced. They don't sponsor me but I am a very satisfied customer.
Regards,
Mark
My father was mates with Gordon Burford and they were founders of the Constellation Model Flying Club. My father used to make his own engines including a diesel and a petrol engine with spark plug. I remember seeing them as a child, but they have been lost.
I still have my first 2.5cc Taipan glow plug engine attached to my first control line plane.
It's great that you still have the aircraft. My parents disposed of all my models when I left home to start my teaching career. I am sure that Gordon Burford was well known in the model aircraft community. I have been very surprised by the love for his engines and his support for the hobby.
Regards,
Mark
You need a vapor blaster for those aluminum parts. Make it look brand new easily. It's amazing how well they clean up aluminum without hurting the surfaces.
I know! I have been a big fan of a channel called Arnold's Designs. He does a lot of vapor blasting of motorcycle parts. One day!
Regards,
Mark
I was almost sure that we were going to get to see you take apart the P-trap underneath the sink , but I’m glad you didn’t have to . Speaking from experience those little parts get pretty yukky down there . 😉 !
Trust me, I have been there and done that. A smarter man would fit a filter over the sink outlet.
Regards,
Mark
I had the same thought...
I had visions of those little parts going down the plug hole, that’s what would happen to me. Great set of videos!
I now put a strainer over the plug hole. Nobody wants to go sticking their fingers in the S trap of my sink!
Regards,
Mark
Another excellent video - as an aero modeller for 60 years, this is great stuff!
Loving this continued model aircraft topic. As an RC pilot myself I love the history this series is starting off with.
Hi Mark, I still have a Taipan 2.5 diesel from the 1960's. I built & crashed many planes when I was young but the engine always survived. Found some fuel in Melbourne a couple of years ago and it started & ran ok on the bench
With an anodised red cylinder head.
Hi Mark. I loved watching you working on that engine. When I was a young lad I was in to model plane's and engine's. I've still got an old Frog 500 glow plug engine and a diesel Cox Pee Wee and both still run. Looking forward to the next episode.
Great to see you picked on an Aussie engine , got to save as many as possible this series will surely help. Thanks Mark will pay close attention.
That little Tyro was truly a rugged little engine. It survived many a vertical landing and more than once I picked dirt out of the venturi and the exhaust ports.
Regards,
Mark
I find your videos very interesting, as mentioned before. Well presented, but more importantly you explain the techniques very well. The preparation to perform a task is beyond the norm. You do not rush the job. This is what makes your channel unique. Well in my eyes it is. Really enjoy your quality channel.
Thanks Graham. The thing is that I enjoy what I do. Some of my earliest memories are of me making things. My aim is to encourage others to do the same. I believe that making things is good for one's mental health.
Regards,
Mark
Oh, Mark, you're overwhelming me with nostalgia tonight. Back in the early '70s my brothers and I flew control line planes in the (US) back yard, with various Cox .049 engines. I'll bet our engines were a lot more beat up than your Tyro.
Special shout out to Colin, for teaching us the proper pronunciation for Toowoomba, too!
Robert, the nostalgia is strong with the topic of model aircraft. I too have very fond memories of building and crashing many, many planes. Good fun.
Regards,
Mark
The Turnado is such a joy to watch. I really must invest in one. Enjoyable beginning to what promises to be an interesting restoration. Thank you Mark 👏👏👍😀 Andrew
Just love what you do what ever you do. I am fascinated of shaping metal.
Well, that's my aim here. I hope to encourage others to have a crack at making things.
Regards,
Mark
Very nice using the edge finder in the tool post drill.
Glad you found a niche and happy that I found your channel.
Well, who knew that model aircraft engines were so universally popular? Certainly I didn't know it at the time I started the Titan series.
Regards,
Mark
Great to see Colin and his workshop is beyond amazing. My first engine was a glo Tiapan .15 in about 1969 or 70.
Colin's workshop is like the Tardis. It looks small on the outside but the contents seem to go on forever.
Regards,
Mark
I remember Taipan glass filled nylon props the shaped looked cool. In the UK the beginners go to engine was the PAW ( Progress Aero Works) 1.5cc Diesel. I too love the smell of ether paraffin and castor oil!
The smell of the nats. Can't wait for it to be on again so I can fill my nostrils with nostalgia.
Tony, I couldn't help taking the cap off that fuel and having a good sniff. I must say it smelled a bit fishy but I don't know what sort of oil Colin used in it. I do recall the Aeroflyte fuel we bought was quite clear and had a very sharp smell.
Regards,
Mark
A nice look at Australian RC modelling history, pre ARF days. Thanks for posting.
Cheers,
I have a Taipan Tyro Diesel engine I bought 30 yrs ago. I was helped with some parts for it from a guy in Aus. Looking forward.
Very interesting. Enjoy the work and history.
Alright ! We get another Adventure ! Thank you Mark
Love this series Mark. I had a Gemini RC like in the video on the shelf. I turned it back into a kit. LOL
what a pair of cool guys you are sir
You’re the milk man. Loving it!
I think I’m mostly watching you for your ease and honesty. I’m a scientist (bio-medical engineering) and about 10 or 15 years or so (guessing) behind you in live. I hope I will find purpose like you do in my retirement.
Greetings from Philadelhpia USA from a German expatriate. Appreciate the nature that surrounds you.
Thanks Hans. I can thoroughly recommend retirement. If you have a hobby you enjoy you will look forward to every day. Making things is good for one's mental health.
Regards,
Mark
G’day Mark I can remember these engines when I was flying RC when I was 16 now I’m 65 . My first engine was a 10cc Enya and it was a beautiful engine, I really like your channel as I am still interested in RC engines particularly the older ones. You have a great channel and I have subscribed and look forward to watching many more, thank you for showing this engine and how you went about restoring it. Kind regards John
Thanks John. I must say I have been very surprised by the enthusiasm and nostalgia demonstrated by model aircraft engine enthusiasts out there. When I was going to school it seemed like there were just a handful of us who flew planes regularly.
Regards,
Mark
Nice work Preso !!
Excellent project Mark, I really like these model engine series. 👍
Good Show Mate: Cleaning up something and restoring it to work is a thrill. I have done it many times because it was the only way I could afford to do what I wanted to. At the time buying new stuff didn't seem to be on the agenda. Interesting to see what the fuel for a diesel model airplane engine is. Patiently waiting for the start up on this engine.
Thanks. I just finished up anodising the cooling fins and the spinner today and it goes into reassembly tomorrow. I've even made a mid century modern display stand for it.
Regards,
Mark
I have one still I bought new in mid seventies the only difference is mine has a black head and I thought it was 2.5 cc
Great to see you work on this engine
I think the version with the black anodised head was a later model than the one I have. Later still they added a spring wire tensioner against the compression screw.
Regards,
Mark
I remember seeing these advertised in Aeromodeller mag. Diesel fuel should have a couple of percent amyl nitrate to help it run better. We used to make our own at school. Amyl nitrate was hard to get as it's a heart medicine. But one of our schoolmates' father was a dispensing chemist... Castor oil is a great lubricant. But gums up the engines with varnish very quickly. We used 20W/50 motor oil. Worked well. You're really taking me back. I've still got 2 PAW diesels and an Oliver Tiger from the 60s. There's a little Cox glow motor as well somewhere.
I used to buy the Aeromodeller magazine regularly. It was interesting to look at all the advertisements for different engines in the back pages. I recall that the Super Tigre racing engines looked super exotic and unobtainable given my meagre pocket money at the time. I did check out a few recipes for home brew diesel fuel when I realised it was hard to buy commercially available fuel and it was interesting to see the substitutions you could make to get a workable fuel.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark, first time I have seen one of those engines stripped. I was waiting for you to drop the con rod down the plug hole.
I like to live dangerously!
Regards,
Mark
Looking forward to the episodes you described in closing.
Brillant video, Mark! And your new outfit looks fantastic too. Have a great weekend and thank you for this interesting restoration project. Greetings from Germany. Cheers Ulf
Glad you enjoyed it
Regards,
Mark
Hi, I recently came across a Tyro engine which looks similar to the one you have, but it has a piece of wire running across the head alongside the T plug. Thanks for the great info. think I need to do more digging to find out more about this.
That Tyro was one of the later revisions. It is the one on the title thumbnail.
Regards,
Mark
Another great watch thank's Mark. Yep, brave not having the plug in the sink :-). I use ethylene glycol in a pot, and simmer the engine bits in that for an hour or so. Really gets rid of the goo, especially the gummy castor. A sink of warm water, dish washing liquid and a tooth brush takes care of any left overs.
Cheers
Pete' New Zealand.
Thanks. I realised afterwards that my clumsy fingers may have let one of those parts end up in the S bend. I do have a strainer and I should have used it. Luckily, no engine parts were harmed in the process. So, I just googled ethylene glycol and found out that it's anti-freeze. I must say I have never had anything to do with it before possibly because we live in a subtropical climate! I also read that it's quite toxic but I have probably used far worse products before. I guess the Ajax is cheap and easy to get. Thanks for watching.
Regards,
Mark
Gday Preso, what an awesome video, Colin has a great collection there and I could imagine the amount of knowledge that this gentleman has, my Mum has an aircraft engine somewhere in her house, I did ask her about this when you were building the titan 60 but so far she hasn’t found it, fingers crossed it’ll show up, thanks for sharing mate, throughly enjoyed watching, cheers
Thanks Matty. I had so much fun with that engine when I was a kid I thought it should be restored and put on display. I gave my Taipan 3.5cc glow engine to my nephew and I'm pretty sure he lost it or dumped it. I wish I still had it now.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, most of the old diesel engines that I owned had a locking lever for the compression adjusting screw as these were known to unscrew them selves when running. I can't remember if Taipan engines had them. I was always careful to replace the piston and liner in the same orientation as original when reassembling as they are a run in fit and due to airflow over the cooling fins wore unevenly.
Gary, the later iteration of the Tyro engine had a wire spring which was fitted into holes on both sides of the cooling fin cap. It kept the compression screw from vibrating loose although on my engine which had no such device, I cannot remember it being a problem. I didn't realise that there would be uneven wear on the cylinder liner and to be honest I didn't mark the orientation when I dismantled the engine. I guess the wear would even out but the engine most likely won't run again.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Hi Mark, I have not seen the spring retainer but I only ever had a couple of Taipans, a 1.5 and 2.5 from memory. Most of the engines I had were glow plug OS motors but I think there is still a Mills diesel somewhere. I should get them out and clean them up and properly preserve them.
never used a diesel, but I had quite a few glow engines ...nice to see the work you do I may have even learned a few things > THANK YOU!
Very enjoyable video.
Thanks for the restoration video. I tried model airplanes when I was young but was never all that successful at flying them.
Thanks for sharing 👍 I wish I had a Mechanist friend with a lathe when I did RC flying.
Me too. My father once started to look for a cheap metal lathe but changed his mind at the last minute. I was devastated!
Regards,
Mark
After this engine it would to see what is takes a old spark plug engine running. In high school I did some guy's back home work for a spark plug model engine. I bought the ignition kit, but could never get it to run. That guys model shop looks like Moyer's Model Shop Lebanon, Pa. USA in the early 1960's.
Great video
David, I would like to build a multi cylinder petrol engine one day. I have a book by E.T. Westbury with lots of good designs. Perhaps a future project but I have a ton of other jobs on the to do list in the meantime.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 My first job was working on airplanes. One of people who's airplanes I worked on built a P51 engine (about 8 inches long) that ran. He built everything down to the spark plugs. This is in the mid 1970's. His home shop had no special equipment. This is before DRO's. On the lathe he used the compound feed set at a very low angle to get his proper cut. When making the crankshaft he nicked one balance weight. The crank was finished, but that night he could not sleep. That nick kept him awake. He went to his shop and cut the crank in half. He went to bed and started a new one the next day.
Love that manual tracer. I’ve never seen that trick before.
Thanks. It's a very cool tool. I have only scratched the surface of what it can do.
Regards,
Mark
Long ago I used glass beads to prepare metal for paint. I had problems with silica dust, so I changed to plastic media. Basically the holes punched out of plastic buttons in a very large drum. It was a LOT more expensive than glass beads, but it solved my silica dust problem and didn't etch the metal surface. It was so successful for my purpose, that I used it to clean zinc cast carburetor bodies. It never caused any problems the silica did, never changed casting dimensions, never clogged any holes or threads, and never damaged a tool used to clean holes and threads. Might be worth a shot if you really want to preserve the original casting but still get it immaculately clean.
What I have found is that the glass bead produces almost no dust compared to crushed glass and garnet. Although I have a vacuum attached to the blast cabinet, I find it's hardly necessary when using the glass bead media. Also, the beads don't fracture so they don't break down into smaller particles. The process I would really like to try is vapour blasting which uses high pressure water mixed with air and crushed glass. It's perfect for die cast parts as used on motorcycles. Check out this channel for some examples of how it works th-cam.com/users/ArnoldsDesign
Regards,
Mark
Wow that is awsome! Very cool that you are doing a restoration! I am a rc pilot and I love the challenge of doing restorations. Especially nitro engines. Hey I will keep watching after this though! I really enjoy your videos.
Cool Aussie engine! I always wanted a go at a Diesel but keeping two fuels stocked seemed a hassle. My mom used to scrub the porcelain off the tubs with that abrasive cleaner. Seeing you scrubbing parts with it prompted me to look for a can last time I was at the market. I was surprised they still make the stuff here. A can of Comet set me back $0.88 US! Apparently inflation hasn't reached 100 year old cleaning products yet, haha.
I have heard from a number of viewers that Ajax is getting hard to find. I couldn't get any last time I looked in Woolworths but put it down to Covid and supply chain issues. I found it at another grocery store and maybe I should stock up on it since it is a very good metal cleaner and grease remover. I actually saw that tip on Dan Gelbart's channel and I regard him as the ultimate guru of engineering. If you haven't seen his channel you can get it here th-cam.com/users/dgelbartvideos
Regards,
Mark
People often puncture spray cans of quick start fluid inside another container to gather the Ether. Since it is tricky to acquire. The Davis diesel conversion heads always intrigued me. I never did acquire one.
I had never heard of the Davis conversion heads before but I just googled it. It's interesting that people might want to convert a glow motor to diesel. Back when I was flying model planes, the diesel engines were considered to be inferior to glow engines although I felt that not having to lug a battery with you was a big plus.
Regards,
Mark
We used to use Tiapan props in the 80's I think there may still be the odd one kicking about in my late Dad's shop.
More small engine fun! I love it.
Thanks Joe. When you see how few parts these engines have it's a wonder they run at all.
Regards,
Mark
Back in the late 70s when I was in college (and really had better things to do), I got a kit to mount a Cox .049 drive train from a dune buggy to a toy tractor to make a puller. When this farm boy heard about a diesel head for it, I just had to have one! The tiny recoil starter really tore up my fingers trying to start that temperamental thing, but I was thrilled when it did run. Thanks for bringing back the memories!
I have only just learned about the diesel conversion heads for some glow plug engines. I always felt that the diesel engines were the poor cousins in the model engine families. However, diesels will start without too much paraphernalia like glow plugs and batteries so maybe that was the attraction.
Regards,
Mark
I'm looking forward to this. My first experience of a model engine was a diesel. I hated it. Almost impossible to start. When it did start after about three hours, it ran away and blew out the compression screw thread. It was impossible to control. When I moved over to a glow plug engine it was night and day. Why anyone would bother with a model diesel is beyond me. However, looking forward to this.
That seems odd. I ran that engine for several years and from what I remember it started and ran quite well. I only stopped using it because I grew out of the hobby. I did transition to a glow plug engine but the requirement to lug a battery around was what inspired me to start with a diesel. Just need fuel and a flicking finger!
Regards,
Mark
I preferred diesels, and found them easier to start. Yes, the power weight ratio wasn’t as good as a glow plug, but the airframe didn’t need fuel proof varnish. I didn’t have to carry around a starter battery, and I could mix my own fuel.
Pretty cool stuff
mmmm. I spy Saito boxes. Saitos...such amazingly good running engines!
Colin has the lot!
Regards,
Mark
I ran mine a couple months back after a 20 something year rest. Started after only a couple flicks. Ran it on mix of castor oil, kerosene and John deer starter fluid(ether).
That's encouraging then. I recall the Tyro was always easy to start but 50 years later....?
Regards,
Mark
...here we go again for a master class...
I have a tyro 1.9cc gordon burfurd diesel I purchased new when I was young.
And we start a new, very promising, adventure🙂 Those parts you resurfaced certainly look better than originally. Colin does stock an impressive lot of model engine and aircraft parts - would be worth a visit, if not so far away. I'm curious how you will clean between the cylinder cooling fins - I would use a brass strip with a size slightly thinner than the gaps and polishing compound.
Jose, I am just about to start on the cylinder cap tomorrow. I have made a threaded mandrel to go in the lathe and I can screw the cap onto it to clean up the surfaces. I will try to clean in between the fins with some sort of sanding stick. I am not sure how that will work but I also have an aluminium brightener which is a nitric acid dip. It should clean up the oxidation but it won't polish the surface.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Thanks for the reply. Making a mandrel for just that purpose is the kind of detail you bring to your projects, that is inspiring to watch.
Best model engine cleaner I have ever used is K2R microwave oven cleaner. It is a non caustic formulation & foams when sprayed on the parts. Old castor oil will just disapear befor your eyes. Leave for a few minutes & scrub any very tough stains (burnt on castor oil) with a toothbrush or stiff brush. Wash off with COLD water. Your alloy parts witll look like new. When disassembling an engine it is a good idea to use some heat (i.e. a heat gun) to soften old castor oil.
Thanks, I just googled that and I can get it easily from our local supermarket.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Great. Let me know if you are impressed with the cleaning results after using K2R. Remember not to leave it on any longer than say 5 minutes on aluminium parts ( also, it can fade anodized parts & remove certain engine paints) & to use cold water to rinse
Hi Preso, I didn’t see you mark the conrod, gudgeon pin, piston or cylinder head when you disassembled the engine. Hopefully you can determine exactly the orientation of the parts when you reassemble the engine as all of those parts have running surfaces mated to each other through the break in process. You also don’t seemed to have removed to contra piston… Not sure if you simply not got around to it yet. When you do run the engine you will probably need to explain a bit about the tuning of the compression screw and the needle valve. As with the plug heat in the Titan, this is about timing of the combustion and getting a clean burn rather than an explosion (pre detonation or pinking)
Stuart. it's fair to say I have forgotten a lot about starting and running this engine. I am hoping it comes back to me. I haven't removed the contra piston but it is free to move up and down in the liner and it's still a good tight fit. I didn't mark the orientation of any of the parts but given that it will only run for a short time I think it will be OK. I just want to show it running and then it will go into a display case that I have for some of my other engines.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Hi Mark, in which case you'll just have to follow the normal break in procedure i.e. short runs at first and keep it rich so it doesn't rev too hard. You would normally prime through the exhaust port, back off the compression screw a quarter turn and then flick the prop until your arm hurts... When the thing eventually decides to run then tighten down the compression screw just a little. Basically you're flicking the prop whilst simultaneously holding the compression screw. When it's running, the aim is to get the engine running at full revs (after break in) with the minimum compression and leanest fuel mix. So basically you've got one hand adjusting the compression screw and the other adjusting the needle valve. Hours of fun, almost better than flying 🙂. These old diesels are usually painful if you're not eperienced with them. The best of the bunch came (arguably) from Irvine in the 90's where they used an ABC construction (Aluiminium piston, Brass liner Chrome plated). The liner was tapered to the top when cold so that when at running temperature it becomes parallel due to the thermal gradient down the liner. These were quite docile engines for diesels and throttled well (not an easy feat given they are a compression igntion engine and the compression ratio varies when you throttle an engine. You're not up there tweaking the compression screw when you change the throttle setting). The advantages of the diesel are that your glow plug battery is never flat, your glow plug never burns out, the fuel lasts twice as long (so you get the same flight times with a smaller fuel load) and the fuel smells better (or is that the smell of nostalgia). Also you're not handling methanol which is a cumulative poison which is absorbed through your skin and destroys your liver (amongst other things). At least with Kerosene you'll 'only' get dermatitis... I look forward to watching you start the Taipan (and don't be tempted to use anything other than your finger or a chicken stick...) Oh, one last thing, the diesel fuel won't last long in a plastic bottle as the ether will evaporate through the plastic. It really needs to be kept in a tin with a tin lid. If the ether content reduces in the fule then you'll never get it to start. Believe me, I've flicked one of these things for hours with old fuel...
Hi Mark It's a pity that the mounting holes have been drilled out why they drilled out holes I do not know not hard to find the correct size bolt, I did fly these engines many years ago when I started in control line, Keep up the good work great job Regards Wayne (Oasis Model Engine Repairs & Restoration.)
Wayne, the mounting holes are just a bit worn. They weren't drilled over size. The tops of the holes have indentations where the screw heads would have clamped down onto the mounting flanges but I measured them today and they are still very close to 1/8" although slightly oval shaped.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Ok thank you Mark, Just looks like they where drilled out in the video hard to tell sometime with video's. Anyway if you need any help with model engines at anytime you can find my contact details on RC Trader under services I know you have your friend not far away but I may know something he does not and vice versa, and thank you again for the video's I will keep watching.
You may not be doing a lot more on IC engines but do i sense a re kindled love of flying RC planes ? Maybe you will become a flyboy once again✈✈🛩🛩
Ian, I did build a very large RC vintage style high winged monoplane about 15 years ago. Months in the building and just 15 minutes in the air before the wing collapsed and it fell to the ground in a flurry of balsa wood and solarfilm. I still have the wreckage under the house to remind me that I shouldn't try it again.
Regards,
Mark
Yeah ! Another engine! Thanks
Hi Mark: At 24:00, is that the "Acute" tool sharpening table from Eccentric Engineering? If so, how do you like it. I have a set of the plans and want to do one (as soon as the shop is set up again). Thanks, Bob
Bob, the tool that I used is the Turnado freehand turning system with the tracer arm option. www.eccentricengineering.com.au/shop/Turnado-With-The-Lot-p178595904 I did look at purchasing the acute tool sharpener but bought a Deckel clone tool and cutter grinder instead. The Turnado is a lovely tool and easy to use.
Regards,
Mark
Great video Mark - it was a real trip down memory lane for me. As a boy (nearly sixty years ago) I had one of those engines, complete with white propellor and aeroflight fuel tank. It fitted into a balsawood "Mustang" control line model plane. I cut my fingers several times on the sharp edge of the propellor and always found the motor hard to start. The compression setting was very finicky. Gordon Burford was an associate of my grandfather who was a precision engineer in Adelaide. My grandfather was taught by Gordon how to use the new automatic grinding machine he had purchased and was using to make various precision tools back in the 1950's. Thank you for this video. I loved it.😀
Wow! That's cool. From what I gleaned from the book, Gordon Burford must have been a prolific and very committed engineer and businessman. I recall seeing that Mustang kit on the display shelves where I bought my Tyro engine. It was beyond my budget but some years later I scratch built a P40 Kittyhawk which flew beautifully. Fun times indeed.
Regards,
Mark
Good Evening Mr. Presling. Di-ethyl Ether can be purchased from Science Essentials in Brisbane. Not too sure of the quantities it comes in though. If you're really stuck, I have several litres of the stuff that I use for various chemistry processes but I am not too sure about how I might get it to you.
Thanks for that offer. I do have a small quantity of diesel fuel which is sufficient to test run the engine. Once I get it to run it will go into a cabinet as a display. My flying days are over I am afraid.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 My days of flying are over too. Been too long since I put a boot full of rudder in and I would never pass the flight medical. Getting too old.
I have not seen Ajax in the UK for years.
I did find it was hard to get in Woolworths last time I went looking for it. I guess it's probably a bit old fashioned nowadays. I did get a supply though. Maybe I should stock up before it goes away for good.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 You have Woolworths too! Woolworths here went about 20 years ago.
We have Wilco's now which is similar but no Ajax.
Nice!!! I have a couple of those little taipan's myself. They need restoration probably slightly more work than this one
Amaizing videos…very interesting 😊… but you should finish starting up the engine
Thanks. I did start the engine in part 2 th-cam.com/video/_lP8qGERPt0/w-d-xo.html
Regards,
Mark
I love this stuff. I would be interested in what you bought it for. Maybe you could build the original plane it went on.
Ron, the original plane was a Taipan Trainer supplied in kit form by Aeroflyte. Here is a link to the design. I recall that it was very hard to fly and on my first attempt I stacked it and broke the engine mounts off at the bulkhead. The maiden flight must have lasted just minutes. picclick.co.uk/Aero-Flyte-Taipan-trainer-mk-1-and-mk-133367506713.html#&gid=1&pid=1
Regards,
Mark
I need to know more about the pen shaped wire brush you used to clean it. I could really use something like that, but can't find anything.
Brandon. I bought a set of three of these tools from Burfitt tools here in Australia. They supplied a brass, fibreglass and a steel version in a set of three. I used the brass one on the Tyro engine. burfitt.com.au/product/scratch-brush-set-3-steel-brass-fibreglass/
They are great for delicate cleaning jobs in tight spaces.
Regards,
Mark
I've got an old P.A.W diesel. I was going to try and start it for old times sake but no shops sell the fuel anymore.
I found the same thing. I guess the cool kids all use electric these days.
Regards,
Mark
Thank you.
Nice engine .. deserves to be restored .. am a little disappointed that I didn't see it come to life in this video yet. ;)
And I'm envying that guys collection there.
I have only 41 engines in varying states of disrepair so far, and nothing really special.
For some, I should also combat the oxidation. Unfortunately I have no beadblasting equipment, and no lathe.
It's a little sad that all those manufactures are going away. Started flying in 2002, and well ..
Webra is gone, Super Tigre went out of business and came back a few years producing in China, but now seems to be gone for good, too.
MVVS stopped doing small (glow/diesel) engines at some point.
OS has sadly discontinued a significant part of their portfolio, especially in the small displacement section (due to less demand, of course)
Sanye (the one behind thes "brand" Magnum, ASP, SC engines and a lot of "store brands" .. all the same thing with different labels) has stopped doing RC engines, too.
And then I go on sceptreflight and see lots of names, long gone and mostly forgotten. Can be depressing at times.
While the modern electric drives are really nice, and certainly the way to go if you just want to FLY .. they are just .. boring in a way.
The growing legal issues around glow engines don't help either.
I didn't realise there were legal restriction on model aircraft engines. I do recall that we were banned from flying on the high school oval because of the noise. A nearby resident complained to the Principal and that was the end of our flying days. None of us were old enough to drive and the nearest club was miles away. Some of the names you mentioned do bring back memories of reading through the old Aeromodeller magazines. Happy days!
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58
I live in Europe and they love rules .. the more complicated, the better.
They made fuels over 16% NM (per weight, thats 12-13% per volume) illegal recently.
You need a "semi-official" document (can be issued by certified persons in your flying club) documenting the noise level. This technically becomes invalid as soon as you change the make of the airscrew on it.
So many people who would be interested in it for the fun of it don't even bother and stay electric.
I'd love to see you get this done and put it in a plane and fly it.
Interestingly, I mentioned the first plane I built to Colin Maybury and he immediately knew the name of the kit. It was called the Taipan Trainer and I was able to find the original plans for it.
Regards,
Mark
Another excellent video mate! I know little to nothing about model aircraft engines. Never heard of running one on diesel! And... the little 'T' handle in the glow plug hole... what is that for? Also a shout out to Colin.. another valuable resource. Cheers!
Jay, the screw in the cylinder cap is to adjust the compression of the engine. It bears down on a "contra piston" fitted to the top of the cylinder liner. Lowering the compression makes it easier to start the engine and then once it's running you can screw the contra piston down into the combustion space to make the engine run more efficiently.
Regards,
Mark
Thanks presso
Hi Mark ! I really Love watching you with this series and was wondering if you have a link to your other type videos please ? Thanks greatly !!
I am not sure if you have watched the Titan series. Warning, it's 19 episodes! th-cam.com/play/PLbPzkHRZCQB8uBSFsim70U9hKNhcpp7Xk.html
Regards,
Mark
Very lovely video and channel.I am sure, you know my channel as well...I love the Taipans and have a lot of them,,,Just will work soon on a MK 4 rear valve engine, but must cast the front housing,as it is missing. Many best regards to Australia mate!
Peter
Peter, I had been watching a few of your videos, particularly the anodising content. It's amazing how many manufacturers got into model aircraft engines. Keep up the great work.
Regards,
Mark
That made me happy...
The fact that there was only one spacer/bushing on the wrist pin might explain the big end of the connecting rod rubbing on the back cover.
I was surprised that there was just the one spacer inside the piston and now I don't know which side it came from but it would serve no purpose being on the side closest to the prop so I can assume it is to prevent too much rubbing against the back plate. There is no discernible wear on the back plate, just some minor scuffing so It must be doing some good.
Regards,
Mark
This video was great, I really enjoy watching your videos especially when it involves model engines, RC, and CNC. I’m currently in the process of restoring an OS MAX FP 40. Unfortunately the piston was seized in cylinder sleeve and required an extensive WD40 soak time to remove the sleeve. I also found that the wrist pin was seized in the piston and at the con rod which forced me to cut the con rod to remove the piston. With further inspection I learned that the piston sleeve was chrome plated and the con rod appears to be a stamped part. I was considering purchasing NOS piston, sleeve and con rod but the materials used for these parts are substandard in my opinion. I think I will make these parts from Duracast for the piston, Aluminium bronze for the con rod and possibly D.O.M. for the sleeve. I would prefer to use a material that would have better wear resistance but not sure what I would use. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone.
From the little experience I have had in building the Titan engine, I would think that most of the materials you have listed would be fine. I do believe that aluminium bronze can be brittle though. Maybe a good wrought aluminium alloy would be better for the connecting rod.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I think the aluminium alloy they use for chain rings on lightweight bikes would be a good choice. It will be tough and also wear resistant as it needs to be for the stress and strain it gets all the time. Not tried it and not sure if it will be thick enough.
Where do you get that Ajax powder, I cant get it in NZ but I will get some when Im in Perth this month if I know where
I usually get it from IGA or Woolworths. Last time I looked in Woolies though the shelves were empty. Could be a supply chain issue but it's probably a bit old fashioned for some consumers.
Regards,
Mark
I had 2.5cc Taipan engine - a real finger breaker when starting if you weren't careful.
That's half the fun, along with burns, cuts and desperate heartbreak when that finely build model missiles into the hard packed earth!
Regards,
Mark
Awesome.
very nice!
Would a screen over the sink drain be usefull?
In hindsight, yes, absolutely!
Regards,
Mark
Did you remove the contra-piston ? (I didn't see it in the video.)
Yeah, I wondered about that. Still stuck up in the head?
Chris, I didn't remove the contra piston. It is free to move and still quite tight as it should be but I felt it was best to leave it in place. I will talk more about that part of the engine in the next video.
Regards,
Mark
We manufactured a lot of products in SA in bygone years, let's hope we can do it again.
Yes, it was a sad day when the car industry went away in SA. I owned a VX Commodore that would have been built in Elizabeth.
Regards,
Mark
dear mark hi my name is clinton, loved the video. i have a few engines my self. i was wondering if i could get in contact with colin as i am seeking a few parts. and infomation on some engines, i have k&b engine tiapan
enya and a hirtenberg which i think is now longer available.looking forward for the next vid as i am a beginner to see how to fix and restore these engines. kind regards clinton
Clinton, I did ask Colin if he would be interested in taking on requests for engine repairs and parts and he agreed. If you email me at mark.presling@gmail.com I can forward your email to Colin. He may charge for his time or parts but you can negotiate directly with him.
Regards,
Mark
What liquid did you put in your sandwich bag in the ultrasonic cleaner? I pick 16 motors 6 months ago. A lot diesels, for $40AUD. woman want $200, they were her father's. A lot my mates were interested but didn't want part with 200 as it looks like they been under water. My son collects old motor he got nice collection. I forgot all about them until I saw it video. I thinking either Puting ATF in a sandwich bag with a whole motor or mix of atf and acetone (if it doesn't eat the bag/ or jar) Puting it in my ultrasonic cleaner, until I have time to get around to looking at them. Cheers Graham
I use "Simple Green" concentrate from Bunnings. It is a citrus based cleaner and it's relatively cheap. I just wash it down the drain when it's used. We have a home sewage treatment plant and it's safe for that system.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 thx mate. Didn't know simple green here thx for tip.
@@Preso58 ur simple green is orange the one I seen at Bunnings is green. They do you have a special order for a commercial grade simple green. 4l makes 40l are you just using it neat?
The Taipan Tyro share most of its design with the Titan 60 engine. But I assume it is just the best/cheapest way to make a model airplane internal combustion engine.
From what I have seen with three different engines (the other is a Fox Control Line Special from the 1960's) they all have similarities. The Fox is just a slightly smaller version of the Titan but the cooling fins around the liner are cast integrally with the crankcase which makes it a bit harder to assemble.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark, I'm trying to track down a PB engine 0.33cc made by Peter burford, Gordon's burfords son. He made a very small batch of engines, but were made exceptionally well. Would you happen to have one you're willing to part with? Or know someone who would?
Sorry, I only have the one Taipan engine left. I did have a 3.5cc glow engine but I gave it to my nephew and I suspect he never did anything with it. I would try getting in touch with one of the model aircraft clubs to see if you can find an enthusiast.
Regards,
Mark