Should I have the distributor out...i replaced the oring on the distributor and now my car won't start...so If I redo the timing on the engine do I leave the distributor in where it is now or do I take it out and then line up the rotory tip toward the number one cyclinder I have a f23a1 engine Honda accord lx 4 cyclinder thanks.
I'm fantastically confused🤔 why do we need to look for all these crank degrees when 0° or 10°btdc is what the factory ECU is looking for? In my case 1995 mustang GT. Thanks Andy
If anyone knows where i find this first tooth offset on a autronic smc i would be very appreciative currently have my timing maps off to make up for it and cant advance it far enough further down the map
Hi Andy, I am running a Ford V8 347 stroker (302 base engine) with Throttle bodies and 8 injectors. I am using two coil packs fired in pairs. We are using a Megasquirt type ECU for the first time. And Tuner studio for the first time. We cannot get the motor timed. Even watching your video did not help this. I have the Crank Sensor fitted at almost TDC pointer as its the only place for it. My 36 - 1 missing tooth is 80 degrees before the sensor when the timing is at TDC. Even trying using the tooth angle changing a degree at a time, the motor just coughs and bangs and does not run. Tried a full 360 on top of the setting nothing. The motor was a crate motor so do not expect anything wrong with that. It is taking us ages to do this, any help for a Ford V8? Much appreciated Mark
@@AndyWhittle_HowEFIworks Thanks for your reply Andy, much appreciated. As its a V8 it turns around 125 to 160 rpm It shows the RPM gauge quite steady while cranking. I gather that if this was bouncing between revs and zero that would be too bigger gap on the sensor to the trigger wheel? My sensor is mounted a few degrees before the TDC pointer no room anywhere else for it. The missing tooth 36 -1 wheel is about 80 - 90 degrees Before TDC normal clockwise rotation. Some people are saying the missing tooth needs to be behind TDC. I get that maybe I am 180 degrees out and could need to add the 360 to my timing degrees as per your video. But I just cannot get the motor to run it shows symptoms of timing being way out. even had flames out the throttle bodies.. I will double check all the things are wired as they should be again, but I have spent near 6 weeks trying to get this motor working, its getting close to the big hammer time. Best regards Mark
Note that this is not the method given in any of the MS manuals.
Andy Whittle the same way with ms2 and micro? Thanks! I love the tutorial vids.
Should I have the distributor out...i replaced the oring on the distributor and now my car won't start...so If I redo the timing on the engine do I leave the distributor in where it is now or do I take it out and then line up the rotory tip toward the number one cyclinder I have a f23a1 engine Honda accord lx 4 cyclinder thanks.
@@kangokidkidd4037 take the distributor out, rotate the shaft 180 deg and put it back in.
Love this method
finally a video I understand how to do the timing initialization.
The audio is much better on the new videos. Sounds good!
Wow, awesome content! I have an MS3Pro Ecugn project ahead of me, Thank's!!!
I'm fantastically confused🤔 why do we need to look for all these crank degrees when 0° or 10°btdc is what the factory ECU is looking for? In my case 1995 mustang GT. Thanks Andy
In the map tables. Does 20 degrees ignition timing would u add to advance it or decrease the value to advance it
It help me alot thank you Andy..
Best video for this application
If anyone knows where i find this first tooth offset on a autronic smc i would be very appreciative currently have my timing maps off to make up for it and cant advance it far enough further down the map
My anti-knock prototype let's me advance ignition timing to the optimum setting without any knock.
A test run is on my TH-cam page.
will adjusting the base timing after a tune affect anything? Will i need to get it remapped again?
Base timing and Spark Latency must be set before dyno tuning.
Hi Andy, I am running a Ford V8 347 stroker (302 base engine) with Throttle bodies and 8 injectors. I am using two coil packs fired in pairs. We are using a Megasquirt type ECU for the first time. And Tuner studio for the first time. We cannot get the motor timed. Even watching your video did not help this. I have the Crank Sensor fitted at almost TDC pointer as its the only place for it. My 36 - 1 missing tooth is 80 degrees before the sensor when the timing is at TDC. Even trying using the tooth angle changing a degree at a time, the motor just coughs and bangs and does not run. Tried a full 360 on top of the setting nothing. The motor was a crate motor so do not expect anything wrong with that. It is taking us ages to do this, any help for a Ford V8? Much appreciated Mark
Are you getting a clean RPM around 200 RPM wile cranking? What is the RPM reading if you crank with the plugs removed?
@@AndyWhittle_HowEFIworks Thanks for your reply Andy, much appreciated. As its a V8 it turns around 125 to 160 rpm It shows the RPM gauge quite steady while cranking. I gather that if this was bouncing between revs and zero that would be too bigger gap on the sensor to the trigger wheel? My sensor is mounted a few degrees before the TDC pointer no room anywhere else for it. The missing tooth 36 -1 wheel is about 80 - 90 degrees Before TDC normal clockwise rotation. Some people are saying the missing tooth needs to be behind TDC. I get that maybe I am 180 degrees out and could need to add the 360 to my timing degrees as per your video. But I just cannot get the motor to run it shows symptoms of timing being way out. even had flames out the throttle bodies.. I will double check all the things are wired as they should be again, but I have spent near 6 weeks trying to get this motor working, its getting close to the big hammer time. Best regards Mark
I have not removed the sparks to turn it over yet. Is that a move to establish timing ?
I am at this point in my project. Is there anything wrong with just using the TDC mark and setting the "Timing for Fixed Advance" to 0?
Yes because at half throttle or full throttle top dead center will be way too retarded so what motor do you have?
Great and vlear video..
Does this method apply to Diesel engine's?
What's the timing light set too while doing this?
0 deg. Better yet, never use a set back or adjustable timing light. They cause more trouble than good.
Thank you
I'm not sure how you are changing the degrees for timing, is it in a program or computer, you aren't physically changing any degrees Right
This is normally a setting in the software.
Hi andy what is a good cranking timing ? As the motor is turning slowly should this be close to tdc ?
I tend to start out real close to 0 first to avoid never kicking back. If the car starts fine, I leave it at 0.
Great info bruv
This only applies to diesel petrol engines
i need to Update my methods.
Привет! Почему у вас получилось 472 градуса ? На моей машине 84 градуса это нормально?
Skoti calmer❤️
Im lost....