Thanks for a good video. I have been fighting what I originally believed to be a parasitic drain problem on a 2001 Ford F450 with the 7.3 that was exhibiting poor starter performance. The previous owner installed two brand new batteries as part of our deal when he said he was starting to have starting problems with the truck. After purchasing the truck I immediately (continued) to experience weak cranking with the truck despite two brand new batteries that I load tested (and checked good) and charged to a full state of 13.45 Vdc. Still had the weak cranking problem so a friend mentioned I might have a parasitic draw problem. So we checked the static load and it was actually the same as you were seeing at 0.39 amps. So we proceeded to go through the process of isolating the load source, however, as part of this exercise I also checked the static load on my 2001 F250 with a 7.3 liter and it was about the same. I've never had a battery or starting problem on my F250 for the 20 years I've owned it (and FYI it is a single alternator) and it is not my everyday driver so it's not uncommon for it to sit for several weeks to a month at a time without being driven. I picked up on your comment that it should be around 0.05 amps My question to you is were your batteries being completely deleted and if so in what period of time? The title of your video implies it was happening as quick as "overnight". What was the lowest battery voltage you experienced during the problem period? Thanks and appreciate your effort to record and post the video. Oh, and after more testing on the F450 we confirmed my problem was a bad starter motor.
I don't remember all of the details. I just remember that the customer said if they leave it parked for a couple days, the batteries are too low and the engine wouldn't crank well enough to start.
I believe this video will help me tremendously as I try to find a parasitic draw on my shuttle bus. Without checking, I'm pretty sure it has 2 alternators since it had a wheelchair lift (has been removed). I'm thinking it likely has something to do with the cable to the wheelchair lift now being attached to nothing. It's a 2002 E450 shuttle bus that I'm renovating into an RV. Thanks for the video!
Good rule of tumb is anything under 100ma. I usually use a regular bulb test light in series with the battery.once the test light isn't lit up,you found the problem
Interesting! I believe this might be the very first possibly all-stock dual alt setup for an F-series of the 7.3 era… seems like that configuration was mostly just offered in ambulances & such. Way back when I’d first learnt this opt was a thing, I was very interested in possibly adding a stock 2nd alt setup in my 2000 F-250 SD 7.3 PS but couldn’t readably locate good info online of that opt’s stock configuration for specifically pickups… so gave up on doing that for now. If the customer that owns that one ever decides on having you repair that lower alt., PLEASE record & upload a video on that repair, showing all associated pulley, bracket, wiring harness loom setup for reference! Thanks for sharing what you did…
The steering wheel clock spring which controls the cruise control, horn, and airbag, is known for creating a battery drain as it begins to wear. Also, beware of LEDs on 7.3's pulling too much from the system causing poor performance.
Yeah, 5 cab lights, 2 markers, main beams, fogs, plus three brake lights may be too much for a halogen designed system which relies on sensors and monitors. I am not a trained mechanic. But I know my truck. For now, no LEDs. A mega high amp alternator may help, but not willing to trade pretty lights for performance. Always learning and happy to be incorrect as long as we find the correction.
Both batteries unhooked? Bit positive is connected and never get to see you the other battery I'm getting nothing on my multimeter so I don't understand what the hell's going on
Thanks for a good video. I have been fighting what I originally believed to be a parasitic drain problem on a 2001 Ford F450 with the 7.3 that was exhibiting poor starter performance. The previous owner installed two brand new batteries as part of our deal when he said he was starting to have starting problems with the truck. After purchasing the truck I immediately (continued) to experience weak cranking with the truck despite two brand new batteries that I load tested (and checked good) and charged to a full state of 13.45 Vdc. Still had the weak cranking problem so a friend mentioned I might have a parasitic draw problem. So we checked the static load and it was actually the same as you were seeing at 0.39 amps. So we proceeded to go through the process of isolating the load source, however, as part of this exercise I also checked the static load on my 2001 F250 with a 7.3 liter and it was about the same. I've never had a battery or starting problem on my F250 for the 20 years I've owned it (and FYI it is a single alternator) and it is not my everyday driver so it's not uncommon for it to sit for several weeks to a month at a time without being driven. I picked up on your comment that it should be around 0.05 amps My question to you is were your batteries being completely deleted and if so in what period of time? The title of your video implies it was happening as quick as "overnight". What was the lowest battery voltage you experienced during the problem period? Thanks and appreciate your effort to record and post the video. Oh, and after more testing on the F450 we confirmed my problem was a bad starter motor.
I don't remember all of the details. I just remember that the customer said if they leave it parked for a couple days, the batteries are too low and the engine wouldn't crank well enough to start.
Guys i replaced my Gem Module many years ago. Rain leaks down under dash n shorts out, causing drain! Windshield leaks too causing radio to go out.
Thanks for sharing
Cover photo is amazing! That's a real woman.
I have a parasitic draw on my 1990 F250 I've got to find. Thanks
I believe this video will help me tremendously as I try to find a parasitic draw on my shuttle bus. Without checking, I'm pretty sure it has 2 alternators since it had a wheelchair lift (has been removed). I'm thinking it likely has something to do with the cable to the wheelchair lift now being attached to nothing. It's a 2002 E450 shuttle bus that I'm renovating into an RV. Thanks for the video!
Good luck to you!
Hi did you ever find parasitic draw? Also why would alternator draw electric when engine is turned off? Thanks
@@acemoto2319 parasitic draw May occur with bad alternator diodes, imho 😢
@@Lee-vb4vh Thank you Lee!
Good rule of tumb is anything under 100ma. I usually use a regular bulb test light in series with the battery.once the test light isn't lit up,you found the problem
Excellent video
This guy seems to know what's going on. He's using a fluke 87 which a hack wouldn't even have heard of.
Interesting! I believe this might be the very first possibly all-stock dual alt setup for an F-series of the 7.3 era… seems like that configuration was mostly just offered in ambulances & such. Way back when I’d first learnt this opt was a thing, I was very interested in possibly adding a stock 2nd alt setup in my 2000 F-250 SD 7.3 PS but couldn’t readably locate good info online of that opt’s stock configuration for specifically pickups… so gave up on doing that for now. If the customer that owns that one ever decides on having you repair that lower alt., PLEASE record & upload a video on that repair, showing all associated pulley, bracket, wiring harness loom setup for reference! Thanks for sharing what you did…
Thanks for the helpful info!Love the video cover pic!
The steering wheel clock spring which controls the cruise control, horn, and airbag, is known for creating a battery drain as it begins to wear.
Also, beware of LEDs on 7.3's pulling too much from the system causing poor performance.
As in LED headlights? Interesting
Yeah, 5 cab lights, 2 markers, main beams, fogs, plus three brake lights may be too much for a halogen designed system which relies on sensors and monitors.
I am not a trained mechanic. But I know my truck. For now, no LEDs. A mega high amp alternator may help, but not willing to trade pretty lights for performance. Always learning and happy to be incorrect as long as we find the correction.
@@22goDpeehs Interesting info but aren't LEDs lower in consumption power over halogen ?
I don't get it? If you have the batteries disconnected how are you getting voltage to all the fuses and components?
The battery is connected through the meter
Both batteries unhooked? Bit positive is connected and never get to see you the other battery I'm getting nothing on my multimeter so I don't understand what the hell's going on
Yes both battery negatives unhooked for the battery drain testing.
What type of silicone where you using to temp the vacuum leaks temporarily?
I can't remember. Most any type of silcone will work for what i did.
Could you show or tell me how to set up your fluke meters…I kept blowing my fuses…
Sorry i must have missed how you did that in the beginning of the video…..i guess i was distracted…..
Switch the lead to the 10 amp spot, you don't want to be on the milli amp even though it's what your dealing with.
Clean that truck!
I don't own this truck
Self taught fixing cars or schooling
Some schooling but mostly self taught