Wranglerstar when you made the froe did you put the proper angle on the blade or something because ive never seen someone have so much trouble before expecially on soft wood.
Hi Cody, there is a book called "The village Carpenter" written in Victorian England (basically the late 1800's) by a guy called Walter Rose as a memoir documenting the loss of traditional skills with the introduction of industrial practices. He started using massive crosscut saws and ripping saws in a sawpit to prepare beams, boards and all the timbers needed for building, but he ended up as *the* village carpenter, and did every job from hand building farm gates, to windmills, and even made wells and crafted the pipes for hand pumps using wood! I think you would absolutely LOVE this book for all sorts of reasons, but my reason for mentioning it now is that he details the types of wood needed for all sorts of tasks, and says that timber framing pegs need to be oak or elm, and walnut if you are making windmill pegs, but if you don't have oak or elm, you can use ash at a pinch. He also talks about how all farmers are supposed to maintain a minimum of an acre of woodland, with a whole variety of species, in order to be able to do all the different jobs on a farm from making gates and doors, to tables, wheels, boxes, handles, ploughs and so on! Anyway, I cannot recommend it highly enough. It is one of the best books I have ever read - and fairly short too! Considering it was written by an ordinary village carpenter with no writing experience, who almost never even left his little village, I think it is just brilliantly impressive. I would love to hear what you think about it, but all I can do is make the suggestion. Take care, and have a good week!"
@@halnywiatr Agree - I think Wranglestar has put too much energy into driving that froe blade deeper than it needs to be. Once the back side has dropped below the end of the log, it's time to use leverage.
The long froe handle is to give you leverage when splitting. The idea is to drive it in a bit and then twist the froe to pry the wood apart. Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Applehash is correct about Tommy Jinks being correct. You actually push the froe away from you. That's where it's name came from. In old times speak they said "fro" as in "to and fro, all the live long day."
For the longest time when you started on talking/showing on this Froe... I hadn't an idea how this is used. THANK YOU for a visual, makes so much more sense now.
I appreciate that you go ahead with the videos like this where not everything worked out perfectly. It's a good learning experience and well worth seeing.
I appreciate your honesty in showing the flawed side of the learning curve. Those lessons, and resultant head scratching, can be informative as well. You solved an old mystery for me. We found a chunky wood mallet on the old homestead when I was a kid made by my great-grandfather. I was told that he had used it to split cedar shingles. Now, finally, I can picture it.
"People who think they know everything are bothering those of us who do." I try to use this saying to keep myself humble, in an ironic sort of way. It doesn't always work.
Cody, decades ago I worked at my father's shake and shingle mill. I worked on 'deck' where the giant Western Red cedar logs were loaded into the log slip, ran ahead to the log stop where rounds were then bucked off using a large cut-off saw which resembled a monster electric chainsaw. The rounds would fall 90 degrees and drop onto the flat chains that acted like a sort of conveyer on the deck. The chains would take the rounds to an area with a large overhead hydraulic splitter. At this station we would split and trim the rounds into blocks where they would then go either to the shingle saw or block splitter where the blocks were further broke down. There were a couple times when the overhead hydraulic splitter on deck wasn't operational. A few times due to mechanical failure and once for quite an extended period because of fire. None the less, production had to continue. During these times we used a froe and maul to split our rounds and make blocks. The mauls we used were a solid piece of aluminum with a wooden handle. The aluminum head was about 10" in diameter and roughly 6"-8" tall. The wooden handle was tapered and dropped into the head from the top like a tomahawk. These mauls held up great even after splitting hundreds and hundreds of cords of cedar. They do tend to mushroom out a bit from repeated striking on the steel froe...but it takes a long time! This type of maul will last a person a lifetime of heavy use.
Hey Cody, you raised a bunch of questions based on " thing's never are as they seem to us " . The fly in the ointment here is other people. That's not always a bad thing. Good to be open minded and base your decision, guided by your morals and values. Ahh I'm getting too deep. Just don't get depressed, God blessed you with good common sense (getting out of the city ) , he gave you a great partner and a healthy child. Thank God !
I appreciate your truth in your videos. Not everything comes out perfect and you show us true reality. Nothing is ever staged. Thanks for keeping it real.
Too many youtube channels carry on like they never make a mistake. I admire the way you hit an obstacle and then just overcome it. Good lessons you are teaching your son and all us. Really loving your 10 min Timber framing series so far. Thanks
You can make your wooden mallets heavier by drilling from the top with a Forstner bit and than add a heavy cylinder of metal into the hole you drilled.
I just realised how long I have been following this channel. Jack used to be a boy and now his voice is changing. He's becoming a man. I love this channel Mr W.
Nice video. This is real life. I've done some of the same things...not with a froe, but with any project...gather up what you think you need, try something you think will work, then it doesn't work...gather up other tools, materials, etc, try again, repeat. Enjoy the process along the way, enjoy being able to spend the time with your family, enjoy the way God created the various grain structures in the wood even though you are ten minutes away from straight grained trees :) Not every project is always cut and dry (no pun intended).
Good lord, your boy has gotten big in a hurry! It is remarkable how quickly time will pass when you are busy! Thanks for including your family, your friends and your audience in your many endeavors all these years!
Cody, I appreciate your honest videos. Even though you were frustrated with the result, you still showed it to us, warts and all. This much I know, The next time you do this you will have a much better result.
Was wondering about that too, can just split sideways? align the axe on the length of the piece of wood then hit it on the stump, let the axe do the work and it will split just fine ...
Almost any way you use an axe can result in stitches or worse if you slip up. The way I split kindling is relatively safe. I line the axe up like he was and strike the pol with a hammer. That way the wood still splits fine and you aren't swinging the axe.
I’ve learned more from your channel than maybe any others. That is a testament to the great work you do. Your knowledge and reviews are truly remarkable, and I just wanted to tell you thank you.
If you need 3/4 inch pegs, why would you subtract the 1/8 inch, instead of adding it? (adding would give some extra that can be planed off to come down to exact size) Also, for the large froe, would it be beneficial to have the cutting edge have a slight radius? (similar to an axe head) This would allow the froe to be driven in the center, without having to have the cutting edge imbed across the entire width of the log, as only an inch or so would be biting in the first hit, and then subsequent strikes would imbed
u cant hit them with a hammer. if u do it will flare out the edges of the froe and would make it difficult for it to work like it should. if a froe is use right all it needs is to be hammered into the wood at the start and twist it push it down until it stops twist push it down till it stops repeat until the log is in 2 pieces. I've made thousands of tobacco-sticks using em. it's like anything, just takes a little practice till u find ur way....
Your observation about thinking you know something and then finding out that you were wrong, or not quite right really struck a cord with me. Theory tempered with experience will show you the way! One of the greatest things about you tube is that I can learn from other peoples experience. Thank you!
You don't have to split the whole billet with the froe. Just grab your splitting axe and get it down to manageable size and then grab the froe. You are being over optimistic about how close you can split it to the line. There is a lot more waste splitting out the pegs than you are expecting. Don't try to do 4 at a time. Just do one over sized at a time. Maybe 1" to 1-1/4" square to get a 3/4" peg.
Regular splitting axe. If it is too tough, wedges and a sledge. Only the first split is hard. When you get down to a reasonable size, the maul works better on the froe since you don't need to whack the #*&% out of it. By the time you get down to small blanks, you can just use the drawknife to split closer to size before shaping.
I thought this video was going to be about making a froe. While I have never had one to use, you are spot on about how it should be used. Split first, then use the froe to get the final product, as opposed to the other way around. The purpose of a froe is to direct the direction of the split, in a long board, or save your axe, for small splits.
The long handle on the froe is to help direct the split by moving it "to and fro". Once the froe is in the log, use the pivoting motion to help direct the split.
Sure doesn't hurt to try. If nothing else. It's practice for later. You learned what doesn't work. 🤓 I used to work in a production setting where we did a lot of metal on metal chiseling. We used to use heavy duty brass hammers. If I recall between 2 & 3 pounds. A quick amazon search shows plenty.
Roy Underhill, master housewright at Colonial Williamsburg, knows a thing or two about old ways of working wood. Among woodworkers he is the patron saint of working with handtools. His name is synonymous with the practice. Yes, his show, "The Woodwright's Shop" has been a Saturday morning staple in my house for decades. Check him out at: www.thirteen.org/programs/the-woodwrights-shop/ Over the many episodes of him using a froe, he has almost always used a branch, looking much like yours, of locust. Apparently it's not only quite dense, but is also difficult to split, thus standing up to the abuse it receives driving a froe.
Yea, I gave the people claiming it is easier to use once you are used to it the benefit of the doubt but 15 seconds to calculate something as easy as that kinda proves it isn't.
2:15 I'm just sitting here listening to the poor kid trying to figure out this archaic system and just thinking this is unnecessary. Good video stupid measurement system. Still a like from me.
You're too clever and thus only a few consciousness's have the depth to see you moulding the thought of which you're humor inundates halirity. Id say "pretentious" is the use of words to say one thing in a more abundant amount of time than " you're pretty funny lol"
Cody, I think a *Tire Thumper* would be perfect for this. It's a metal-filled mallet normally used to check the pressure of tires, but the weighted core would give you the weight you need to effectively carve the wood so you can get those square pegs. However you may want to check your state's laws before buying one, because it may not allow shipment of Tire Thumpers, since they could be used as a weapon, at least that's what I've read, so I may be wrong. It's better to be on the safe side and know your local laws than to break one and not even know it. Happy Homesteading! - Ms. Nightshade
hes young and learning and thats exactly how you learn, im around 50, i blurted out in a matter of seconds because i have done it for years, he will too in time..
Agreed beach bummin - I was only taught the imperial system for a couple of years at school before being swapped to a lifetime of metric, but the imperial answer still came instantly. Both systems have their benefits and Jack seems a clever cookie like his mum, am sure he'll get faster.
No such thing as a failed endeavor when you get to do it outside with your family. Don't be depressed. You got to work out in the sunshine with the birds chirping their happy songs. Good video.
This brings back memories. I spent my high school and college summers splitting oak for shingles with a froe. I found it easier to hold the blade on the non-handle side with my non-dominant hand to start the split. Then the handle was already on the same side as my dominant arm to pry down.
As you mentioned, you're learning as you go. *Incorrect* : Kneeling while hammering the froe. Starting the cut at the far end of the froe instead of at the handle end. A longer handle will give more leverage, etc. etc.
I cannot begin to explain how many projects I've started that end in surprisingly miserable failures! I always tell myself, it's the fact that we keep trying no matter what! Hope you stay clear of that Hanford emergency over there Wranglerstars!? 👍 God bless!
Cody, instead of trying to force the wood to cut where you want, let it split as it wants to. Once the froe is started, instead of using the handle to guide the split, pull or push on it to accelerate the split. You can use the poll of an axe to drive to froe or get a significantly larger mallet. When you are using the axe to make the small splits, instead of trying to split it from the end, lay the billet flat on the chopping block, set the blade of the axe along the grain where you want to split it and while holding the axe and the billet together, raise them both up and bring them down on the chopping block. This is easier to control and much less likely to chop your hand as it is not in line with the blade. This is how the Scouts teach it.
on the texas gulf coast we have very little straight grained wood. When i was young i went to colorado and was fascinated with just white pine. i could finally split wood like tv.
Nice, it's always satisfying to see a little froe action. If I may make a couple suggestions: try using more prying and less hammering, also I find it easier to insert the handle through the other side of the iron so the handle dangles down over the log. Here in the East pegs were traditionally made from black locust, which grow all over here like a weed, maybe not so there in the West. Any other very hard wood should also do fine for pegs.
It's not so much about what you don't know, it's how much you are willing to learn. If your preconceptions turn out wrong, swallow your pride and learn from the experience. It's life.
We used to use a 2 or 3 pound short handle sledge with a piece of old car tire tread as a cap (tie over the striking face) to split with a froe. You replace the tire piece as it wears through. Make sure the froe is sharp (especially near the tip to get a good start, and check for blunting of the edge as wood is abrasive to edges. We also used a short bit of stump with a box of 2x4 screwed to the small stump to act as a holder for the base of the wood piece as we start the split on small pieces, and then transfer the wood and froe to the big stump to finish the split. In this way the smaller pieces remain more fixed and all the force goes into the start of the split and less is lost to trying to hold the wood upright. Love the shave horse!
I saw a demonstration of using a froe at the land between the lakes, antique farm. The use a rack for holding the log being split in place. That allows them to steer the froe through the log and keep the cut straight. Also try loading the mallet with lead in the center.
You start on the outside edge and work in, you start them then torque the handle to rive the wood. You don't need a huge mallet if you are not starting out splitting the whole log in two, especially when you start using start using hard woods. Good luck Wranglerstar!
Hi Cody. instead of thinking of having to re-think suppositions as depressing be glad. Us older guys still have plenty left to learn in life. And let's be honest, learning new things can be lots of fun.
hi there ! you cd hollow out part of the mallet and pour lead in to it ! as I used to do on wooden golf clubs on a smaller scale ! Keep up the good work regards Ian
You need a heavier hickory maul for using the froe. If you watch the first season of the Woodwright's shop, Roy Underhill makes a froe maul. It has a fairly large diameter and a longer handle. For finishing your pegs it would be best to use a shaving horse and a draw knife. The best way of learning is doing. Love you channel.
My grandfather always made small mallets and wooden wedges from dogwood. He said it's a fairly hard wood and readily available here in Arkansas. It's somewhat difficult to find a dogwood big enough to make a large mallet.
Suggestion for a mallet: Make a handle of the legth you're comfortable wielding in one hand (your handle crafting is excellent). Make a head from a billet about 4" diameter and 8" long. Drill a hole in the center of the length for the handle. You'll get a lot more weight in the head without having to make a really long traditional mallet. Basically, a hardwood sledgehammer. Chamfer [sp] the edges of the striking surface to prevent mushrooming. The large flat striking area will also let it last longer than the traditional mallet I would think...or at least when it fails it waill fail less spectacularly :) I'm going into detail not b/c i don't think you know how its done, but because I'm pendantic and like making sure i dont leave room for misunderstanding :)
I watched a guy in England making shingles, he wrapped a bicycle inner tube around the log to keep it all together while he split with the froe, looked like it worked good. He was splitting chestnut
Hey Cody. You look a little defeated after this video. I think it's fantastic that you have made the effort to use what you have so well done. I've been trying to source the timber for a carpenters bench now for 6 months but I can't find anything but pine without spending a small fortune. Hopefully the pegs will work just fine 👍
I have never used a Froe before, but i has split many logs of many wood types with a wedge and a hammer. It is much easier starting at the ends and working your way to the middle. Making a block of wood then just keep working around to a single peg.
We always used a "commander" maul with the froe. One person holding the froe and another swinging the commander. The commander is huge compared to the small mallet you used. After the initial splits one person would hold the froe in one hand and drop the commander to split the wood.
Tried setting an axe like that once to split some wood. After the wood split unexpectedly fast from a very light tap, and a trip in the house to the first aide kit, I never did it again. You can set it on top where you want the split to happen, then use the wood mallet you have there to work axe in.
lol, things are vastly different down in the dirt than they are up in the ivory tower. When I was young I was spontaneous and just did things without thinking. Middle age taught me to be a planner and to think things through. But the wisdom of age has taught me that the best laid schemes of mice and men go often askew, and leave us nothing but grief and pain, for promised joy!
My shop teacher made froe's and lead mallets for all the shake and shingle mills here in Grays Harbor. The froe's were similar to yours and the mallets were a roll bar of lead we called them doughnuts (cast in a 5"pipe with a 11/2" pipe in the middle) about 5"round and 5"long with a 11/2 hole in the middle for a tapered wooden handle. the lead being softer than the steel it gives up first. I don't know how many he made over the years but I helped him make a good many I would guess he made thousands.
I used to cut cedar shake blocks out of cut rounds. You might try to find a solid aluminum mallet with a steel handle made of pipe. That what I used, on a per piece job. Of course cedar splits much easier, but it might be worth a try. And please wear safety glasses when using an aluminum mallet. You will get chips that fly off the mallet.
One option for the mallet with the shredded plastic cover, might be to get some rawhide and wrap the head. Get the rawhide wet and wrap the head. It tightens as it dries, but with a little thought, you'll come up with a way to attach it so it doesn't move. Before it completely dries out, oil the face to give it some pliability, otherwise the dry rawhide will split the first time you hit a sharp edge.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
*** DEAL OF THE DAY *** MORA CHISEL KNIFE FINALY BACK IN STOCK *** ONLY $13 *** goo.gl/NTOxGT
Just picked on up, been wanting one forever. Thanks for the heads up!
I got one awhile back. They're great hold an edge well but they rust really easy so be aware of that. Worth every bit of 13 dollars.
Wranglerstar when you made the froe did you put the proper angle on the blade or something because ive never seen someone have so much trouble before expecially on soft wood.
MsLawli, certainly he could. But wouldn't that defeat the purpose of trying to do things using traditional methods?
cody !what if you make a wood hammer and fill it up with some heathy metal?
Hi Cody, there is a book called "The village Carpenter" written in Victorian England (basically the late 1800's) by a guy called Walter Rose as a memoir documenting the loss of traditional skills with the introduction of industrial practices. He started using massive crosscut saws and ripping saws in a sawpit to prepare beams, boards and all the timbers needed for building, but he ended up as *the* village carpenter, and did every job from hand building farm gates, to windmills, and even made wells and crafted the pipes for hand pumps using wood!
I think you would absolutely LOVE this book for all sorts of reasons, but my reason for mentioning it now is that he details the types of wood needed for all sorts of tasks, and says that timber framing pegs need to be oak or elm, and walnut if you are making windmill pegs, but if you don't have oak or elm, you can use ash at a pinch. He also talks about how all farmers are supposed to maintain a minimum of an acre of woodland, with a whole variety of species, in order to be able to do all the different jobs on a farm from making gates and doors, to tables, wheels, boxes, handles, ploughs and so on!
Anyway, I cannot recommend it highly enough. It is one of the best books I have ever read - and fairly short too! Considering it was written by an ordinary village carpenter with no writing experience, who almost never even left his little village, I think it is just brilliantly impressive. I would love to hear what you think about it, but all I can do is make the suggestion.
Take care, and have a good week!"
The handle is set at a right angle to the blade so that when the billet begins to split the fro can be twisted to complete the split.
By pushing or pulling the handle you can influence the direction of the split.
yes, every time I have seen a fro used this is the technique.
@@halnywiatr Agree - I think Wranglestar has put too much energy into driving that froe blade deeper than it needs to be. Once the back side has dropped below the end of the log, it's time to use leverage.
Indeed. This guy has no idea what he is doing LOL A froe is not for splitting firewood in the first place...
The long froe handle is to give you leverage when splitting. The idea is to drive it in a bit and then twist the froe to pry the wood apart. Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Applehash is correct about Tommy Jinks being correct. You actually push the froe away from you. That's where it's name came from. In old times speak they said "fro" as in "to and fro, all the live long day."
.
If you work on two logs at once, alternating between one and the other, are you "going to and froe"?
lol
Ha Ha!
They do have their froes and cons
froe us or against us?
friend or froe
Cody you and Jack just re affirmed my love for the metric system.
For the longest time when you started on talking/showing on this Froe... I hadn't an idea how this is used. THANK YOU for a visual, makes so much more sense now.
"so what have we learned today?" how to use a froe to make kindling. :)
I appreciate that you go ahead with the videos like this where not everything worked out perfectly. It's a good learning experience and well worth seeing.
you can always change the name of the Video to "How to make Kindling"
Harsh, but funny
Y did he have to measure it though
I appreciate your honesty in showing the flawed side of the learning curve. Those lessons, and resultant head scratching, can be informative as well. You solved an old mystery for me. We found a chunky wood mallet on the old homestead when I was a kid made by my great-grandfather. I was told that he had used it to split cedar shingles. Now, finally, I can picture it.
"People who think they know everything are bothering those of us who do."
I try to use this saying to keep myself humble, in an ironic sort of way.
It doesn't always work.
nice one, i'm gonna have to try and remember it :)
Arkansas Pilgrim the quote is really true for me
Haha 😆
This channel fills the gap that Mr Rogers left. Satisfies the more rugged wish of content I’ve been wanting too. Thanks for uploading :)
Maybe Drill bore hole in mallets and pore lead in should help with the weight
And start with bigger peg blanks just a idea
Cody, decades ago I worked at my father's shake and shingle mill. I worked on 'deck' where the giant Western Red cedar logs were loaded into the log slip, ran ahead to the log stop where rounds were then bucked off using a large cut-off saw which resembled a monster electric chainsaw. The rounds would fall 90 degrees and drop onto the flat chains that acted like a sort of conveyer on the deck. The chains would take the rounds to an area with a large overhead hydraulic splitter. At this station we would split and trim the rounds into blocks where they would then go either to the shingle saw or block splitter where the blocks were further broke down.
There were a couple times when the overhead hydraulic splitter on deck wasn't operational. A few times due to mechanical failure and once for quite an extended period because of fire. None the less, production had to continue. During these times we used a froe and maul to split our rounds and make blocks. The mauls we used were a solid piece of aluminum with a wooden handle. The aluminum head was about 10" in diameter and roughly 6"-8" tall. The wooden handle was tapered and dropped into the head from the top like a tomahawk.
These mauls held up great even after splitting hundreds and hundreds of cords of cedar. They do tend to mushroom out a bit from repeated striking on the steel froe...but it takes a long time! This type of maul will last a person a lifetime of heavy use.
Hey Cody, you raised a bunch of questions based on " thing's never are as they seem to us " . The fly in the ointment here is other people. That's not always a bad thing. Good to be open minded and base your decision, guided by your morals and values. Ahh I'm getting too deep. Just don't get depressed, God blessed you with good common sense (getting out of the city ) , he gave you a great partner and a healthy child. Thank God !
I appreciate your truth in your videos. Not everything comes out perfect and you show us true reality. Nothing is ever staged. Thanks for keeping it real.
That looks like fun.
Too many youtube channels carry on like they never make a mistake. I admire the way you hit an obstacle and then just overcome it. Good lessons you are teaching your son and all us.
Really loving your 10 min Timber framing series so far. Thanks
How nice would it be if everyone were so reflective and humble 8:30. Myself included. Thanks for sharing the wisdom, as usual!
Keep your head up buddy. You were humble enough to admit your flaws and smart to learn from your mistakes. Looking forward to future videos.
You can make your wooden mallets heavier by drilling from the top with a Forstner bit and than add a heavy cylinder of metal into the hole you drilled.
Oskar Andreasson didn't slingshot channel do that
It's comforting to see the 'expert' struggle a time or two. Shows us novices that it's not always a success story and not to get discouraged.
I am drunk and it is three in the morning, why am I watching this?!
Same
I just realised how long I have been following this channel. Jack used to be a boy and now his voice is changing. He's becoming a man. I love this channel Mr W.
Nice video. This is real life. I've done some of the same things...not with a froe, but with any project...gather up what you think you need, try something you think will work, then it doesn't work...gather up other tools, materials, etc, try again, repeat. Enjoy the process along the way, enjoy being able to spend the time with your family, enjoy the way God created the various grain structures in the wood even though you are ten minutes away from straight grained trees :) Not every project is always cut and dry (no pun intended).
As nice as it is to see perfectly executed guides, these kinds of videos are definitely pretty great too! It''s real life, as you pointed out.
Good lord, your boy has gotten big in a hurry! It is remarkable how quickly time will pass when you are busy! Thanks for including your family, your friends and your audience in your many endeavors all these years!
Americans are so good at fractions! 😂 haven't had to deal with adding fractions in my head since I was 12.... And I'm studying engineering🙈.
Cody, I appreciate your honest videos. Even though you were frustrated with the result, you still showed it to us, warts and all. This much I know, The next time you do this you will have a much better result.
using an axe like at 10:55 can easily result in a finger that requires stitches, ask me how I know....
Ouch!
Lasse Langwadt Christensen how do you know?
;) I did it when I was probably 8 years old, axe slipped off the wood and landed on my index finger and had to get 3 stitches
Was wondering about that too, can just split sideways? align the axe on the length of the piece of wood then hit it on the stump, let the axe do the work and it will split just fine ...
Almost any way you use an axe can result in stitches or worse if you slip up. The way I split kindling is relatively safe. I line the axe up like he was and strike the pol with a hammer. That way the wood still splits fine and you aren't swinging the axe.
I’ve learned more from your channel than maybe any others. That is a testament to the great work you do. Your knowledge and reviews are truly remarkable, and I just wanted to tell you thank you.
"We have big wood out here" ;)
love your topics and videos. Your love for your wife and son jack shines through. thank you.
I love this channel.
don't be Sorry
I was so excited to see these in action. looks like a beautiful day with the birds chirping in the background. Thanks Cody
If you need 3/4 inch pegs, why would you subtract the 1/8 inch, instead of adding it? (adding would give some extra that can be planed off to come down to exact size)
Also, for the large froe, would it be beneficial to have the cutting edge have a slight radius? (similar to an axe head) This would allow the froe to be driven in the center, without having to have the cutting edge imbed across the entire width of the log, as only an inch or so would be biting in the first hit, and then subsequent strikes would imbed
3/4 pegs don't fit into 3/4 inch holes,
Mind Blown... I'm a metal guy not a wood guy how does this work?
There's also a thing called a hammer!
u cant hit them with a hammer. if u do it will flare out the edges of the froe and would make it difficult for it to work like it should. if a froe is use right all it needs is to be hammered into the wood at the start and twist it push it down until it stops twist push it down till it stops repeat until the log is in 2 pieces. I've made thousands of tobacco-sticks using em. it's like anything, just takes a little practice till u find ur way....
imperial units of measurement are retarded whenever you have to do anything mathematical with them
Your observation about thinking you know something and then finding out that you were wrong, or not quite right really struck a cord with me. Theory tempered with experience will show you the way! One of the greatest things about you tube is that I can learn from other peoples experience. Thank you!
You don't have to split the whole billet with the froe. Just grab your splitting axe and get it down to manageable size and then grab the froe.
You are being over optimistic about how close you can split it to the line. There is a lot more waste splitting out the pegs than you are expecting. Don't try to do 4 at a time. Just do one over sized at a time. Maybe 1" to 1-1/4" square to get a 3/4" peg.
Regular splitting axe. If it is too tough, wedges and a sledge. Only the first split is hard. When you get down to a reasonable size, the maul works better on the froe since you don't need to whack the #*&% out of it. By the time you get down to small blanks, you can just use the drawknife to split closer to size before shaping.
I thought this video was going to be about making a froe. While I have never had one to use, you are spot on about how it should be used. Split first, then use the froe to get the final product, as opposed to the other way around. The purpose of a froe is to direct the direction of the split, in a long board, or save your axe, for small splits.
The long handle on the froe is to help direct the split by moving it "to and fro". Once the froe is in the log, use the pivoting motion to help direct the split.
Sure doesn't hurt to try. If nothing else. It's practice for later. You learned what doesn't work. 🤓
I used to work in a production setting where we did a lot of metal on metal chiseling. We used to use heavy duty brass hammers. If I recall between 2 & 3 pounds. A quick amazon search shows plenty.
love seeing you and your son work together, what a lucky boy to have access to all these wonderful resources
check out some of Roy Underhill's old PBS programs Roy Underhill's carpenter shop
Roy Underhill, master housewright at Colonial Williamsburg, knows a thing or two about old ways of working wood. Among woodworkers he is the patron saint of working with handtools. His name is synonymous with the practice. Yes, his show, "The Woodwright's Shop" has been a Saturday morning staple in my house for decades. Check him out at: www.thirteen.org/programs/the-woodwrights-shop/
Over the many episodes of him using a froe, he has almost always used a branch, looking much like yours, of locust. Apparently it's not only quite dense, but is also difficult to split, thus standing up to the abuse it receives driving a froe.
I love how you worked through the exercise, and then on reflection focus on the 'learning' from it.
Cody, please go metric, inch by inch ! ;-) love the video !
Yea, I gave the people claiming it is easier to use once you are used to it the benefit of the doubt but 15 seconds to calculate something as easy as that kinda proves it isn't.
Profound moment of clarity there @8:30. It resonated with me greatly.
Measuring in inches... It boggles my mind! xP
Perception is everything.
Learn from your mistakes
And Humble yourself.
God bless You and your family Cody!
Keep up the Great work!
2:15 I'm just sitting here listening to the poor kid trying to figure out this archaic system and just thinking this is unnecessary. Good video stupid measurement system. Still a like from me.
These video's are always super entertaining and very informative keep up the awesome work.
If you call a jig "tooling", you sound more sophisticated.
Or pretentious.
You're too clever and thus only a few consciousness's have the depth to see you moulding the thought of which you're humor inundates halirity. Id say "pretentious" is the use of words to say one thing in a more abundant amount of time than " you're pretty funny lol"
but what if "jig" is the correct term, it sure ain't a fixture.
Pretension is a hiding place for the ignorant. jk.
Great to see a father and son working together, great video!
кто-нибудь с России смотрит?
Конечно!
валодя ыыы так просто или постоянно смотрите? (Fan from Russia)
Cody, I think a *Tire Thumper* would be perfect for this. It's a metal-filled mallet normally used to check the pressure of tires, but the weighted core would give you the weight you need to effectively carve the wood so you can get those square pegs. However you may want to check your state's laws before buying one, because it may not allow shipment of Tire Thumpers, since they could be used as a weapon, at least that's what I've read, so I may be wrong. It's better to be on the safe side and know your local laws than to break one and not even know it.
Happy Homesteading!
- Ms. Nightshade
This is a perfect exmple why metric is better in the beginning you see the kid struggeling with alle those weird numbers
Yes, 34.925 mm. is much easier to deal with than 1 3/8".
Gerrit Evers Had me "stumped" too
hes young and learning and thats exactly how you learn, im around 50, i blurted out in a matter of seconds because i have done it for years, he will too in time..
Agreed beach bummin - I was only taught the imperial system for a couple of years at school before being swapped to a lifetime of metric, but the imperial answer still came instantly. Both systems have their benefits and Jack seems a clever cookie like his mum, am sure he'll get faster.
Sounds like one of us screwed up his math- and it wasn't me. That answer is correct.
No such thing as a failed endeavor when you get to do it outside with your family. Don't be depressed. You got to work out in the sunshine with the birds chirping their happy songs. Good video.
second
Amazing to see you and Jack working together. Blessings from Norway
Growth and learning, it even at the destruction of old ideas and ways is never bad. Good video buddy.
This brings back memories. I spent my high school and college summers splitting oak for shingles with a froe. I found it easier to hold the blade on the non-handle side with my non-dominant hand to start the split. Then the handle was already on the same side as my dominant arm to pry down.
As you mentioned, you're learning as you go.
*Incorrect* : Kneeling while hammering the froe. Starting the cut at the far end of the froe instead of at the handle end. A longer handle will give more leverage, etc. etc.
very cool. Now I see where the concept of splitting wood with large survival knives came from. Great video.
its really great that you do these types of things with your son i think thats pretty cool
I cannot begin to explain how many projects I've started that end in surprisingly miserable failures! I always tell myself, it's the fact that we keep trying no matter what! Hope you stay clear of that Hanford emergency over there Wranglerstars!? 👍 God bless!
Cody, instead of trying to force the wood to cut where you want, let it split as it wants to. Once the froe is started, instead of using the handle to guide the split, pull or push on it to accelerate the split. You can use the poll of an axe to drive to froe or get a significantly larger mallet. When you are using the axe to make the small splits, instead of trying to split it from the end, lay the billet flat on the chopping block, set the blade of the axe along the grain where you want to split it and while holding the axe and the billet together, raise them both up and bring them down on the chopping block. This is easier to control and much less likely to chop your hand as it is not in line with the blade. This is how the Scouts teach it.
You seem like a good father raising a great son. Keep it up. Good video.
on the texas gulf coast we have very little straight grained wood. When i was young i went to colorado and was fascinated with just white pine. i could finally split wood like tv.
Thanks Cody, Jack, and Mrs. W. Time to get a bigger hammer. :) Glad the froe worked.
Nice, it's always satisfying to see a little froe action. If I may make a couple suggestions: try using more prying and less hammering, also I find it easier to insert the handle through the other side of the iron so the handle dangles down over the log. Here in the East pegs were traditionally made from black locust, which grow all over here like a weed, maybe not so there in the West. Any other very hard wood should also do fine for pegs.
Your son isn't inside playing Call of Duty and that alone is insanely commendable.
It's not so much about what you don't know, it's how much you are willing to learn. If your preconceptions turn out wrong, swallow your pride and learn from the experience. It's life.
We used to use a 2 or 3 pound short handle sledge with a piece of old car tire tread as a cap (tie over the striking face) to split with a froe. You replace the tire piece as it wears through. Make sure the froe is sharp (especially near the tip to get a good start, and check for blunting of the edge as wood is abrasive to edges. We also used a short bit of stump with a box of 2x4 screwed to the small stump to act as a holder for the base of the wood piece as we start the split on small pieces, and then transfer the wood and froe to the big stump to finish the split. In this way the smaller pieces remain more fixed and all the force goes into the start of the split and less is lost to trying to hold the wood upright. Love the shave horse!
Cody, I particularly appreciated your introspective moment...I can so relate.
I saw a demonstration of using a froe at the land between the lakes, antique farm. The use a rack for holding the log being split in place. That allows them to steer the froe through the log and keep the cut straight. Also try loading the mallet with lead in the center.
The best laid plans often go arie. Learned last year as a freshman in high school. Love your channel
You start on the outside edge and work in, you start them then torque the handle to rive the wood. You don't need a huge mallet if you are not starting out splitting the whole log in two, especially when you start using start using hard woods. Good luck Wranglerstar!
I have my final schoolexams this week and your videos have been nice breaks for me while studying! Thanks for the nice content.
i like that your real and show that you are still learning too.
What did we learn today? People who survived and thrived pre-20th century are total badasses.
With all our problems, Im so glad I live in 2017.
Hi Cody. instead of thinking of having to re-think suppositions as depressing be glad. Us older guys still have plenty left to learn in life. And let's be honest, learning new things can be lots of fun.
hi there ! you cd hollow out part of the mallet and pour lead in to it ! as I used to do on wooden golf clubs on a smaller scale ! Keep up the good work
regards Ian
You need a heavier hickory maul for using the froe. If you watch the first season of the Woodwright's shop, Roy Underhill makes a froe maul. It has a fairly large diameter and a longer handle. For finishing your pegs it would be best to use a shaving horse and a draw knife. The best way of learning is doing. Love you channel.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Thank you for another honest video
Seeing how you and ur kid interact reminds me a lot of me and my boy, awesome!!
thank you for sharing your learning experience with us all. we can all learn from each other if we stay humble in our thoughts
My grandfather always made small mallets and wooden wedges from dogwood. He said it's a fairly hard wood and readily available here in Arkansas. It's somewhat difficult to find a dogwood big enough to make a large mallet.
Suggestion for a mallet: Make a handle of the legth you're comfortable wielding in one hand (your handle crafting is excellent). Make a head from a billet about 4" diameter and 8" long. Drill a hole in the center of the length for the handle. You'll get a lot more weight in the head without having to make a really long traditional mallet. Basically, a hardwood sledgehammer. Chamfer [sp] the edges of the striking surface to prevent mushrooming. The large flat striking area will also let it last longer than the traditional mallet I would think...or at least when it fails it waill fail less spectacularly :) I'm going into detail not b/c i don't think you know how its done, but because I'm pendantic and like making sure i dont leave room for misunderstanding :)
I watched a guy in England making shingles, he wrapped a bicycle inner tube around the log to keep it all together while he split with the froe, looked like it worked good. He was splitting chestnut
Hey Cody. You look a little defeated after this video. I think it's fantastic that you have made the effort to use what you have so well done. I've been trying to source the timber for a carpenters bench now for 6 months but I can't find anything but pine without spending a small fortune. Hopefully the pegs will work just fine 👍
With a froe I have found that a grid never works out. Also a heavy wood hammer Osage orange preferably works well for a mallet. Thanks for the video.
Nice video, Wranglerstar. Thanks for the lessons.
I have never used a Froe before, but i has split many logs of many wood types with a wedge and a hammer. It is much easier starting at the ends and working your way to the middle. Making a block of wood then just keep working around to a single peg.
We always used a "commander" maul with the froe. One person holding the froe and another swinging the commander. The commander is huge compared to the small mallet you used. After the initial splits one person would hold the froe in one hand and drop the commander to split the wood.
Tried setting an axe like that once to split some wood. After the wood split unexpectedly fast from a very light tap, and a trip in the house to the first aide kit, I never did it again. You can set it on top where you want the split to happen, then use the wood mallet you have there to work axe in.
thank you for your time and sharing.
lol, things are vastly different down in the dirt than they are up in the ivory tower. When I was young I was spontaneous and just did things without thinking. Middle age taught me to be a planner and to think things through. But the wisdom of age has taught me that the best laid schemes of mice and men go often askew, and leave us nothing but grief and pain, for promised joy!
My shop teacher made froe's and lead mallets for all the shake and shingle mills here in Grays Harbor. The froe's were similar to yours and the mallets were a roll bar of lead we called them doughnuts (cast in a 5"pipe with a 11/2" pipe in the middle) about 5"round and 5"long with a 11/2 hole in the middle for a tapered wooden handle. the lead being softer than the steel it gives up first. I don't know how many he made over the years but I helped him make a good many I would guess he made thousands.
I used to cut cedar shake blocks out of cut rounds. You might try to find a solid aluminum mallet with a steel handle made of pipe. That what I used, on a per piece job. Of course cedar splits much easier, but it might be worth a try. And please wear safety glasses when using an aluminum mallet. You will get chips that fly off the mallet.
Classic Cody. Great video, like old times.
One option for the mallet with the shredded plastic cover, might be to get some rawhide and wrap the head. Get the rawhide wet and wrap the head. It tightens as it dries, but with a little thought, you'll come up with a way to attach it so it doesn't move. Before it completely dries out, oil the face to give it some pliability, otherwise the dry rawhide will split the first time you hit a sharp edge.
Another good video Cody. Great to see your boy learning to work with his hands. Seems like now days these skills are lost.