Yep that and none of us old farts ever used power tool to set screws. Know several old sparkies with carpal tunnel & elbow problems. Was going to get my carpel tunnel operated on a few months before I retired but delayed it. Seldom bothers me since retiring so not getting operation done.
The Wago system really is excellent. They also make junction boxes that lock the connectors into place with strain relief built in, the bonus is that when the connectors are pushed into the box, the levers are held into place by the structure of the junction box. A true maintenance free system.
After many jobs involving old work, I too often come across wire leads that are too short either at installation or for who knows what reason the wires end up short probably by too many wiring, unwiring and rewiring cycles (by work hardening induced brittleness due to replacement of a failed socket, upgrading a switch, etc.). Try wiring a short lead with a wire nut. WAGO’s make this possible without having to do major surgery on the circuit.
I carry them all the time in my truck, use them a lot when troubleshooting or for continuity test when coming to a pull box with multiple circuits, rarely leave them in the boxes I usually replace them with regular wire nuts once I got everything figured it out. Sometimes I leave them in if I’m splicing 4 to 5 #12s in a box with other circuits, Easier to bend/push them in when spliced. Will buy the new ones for #10s.
I love these connectors, use them all of the time and never experienced any issue whatsoever. Just be sure to buy the authentic WAGO and not the Chinese knock-offs.
EXACTLY. There are cheap Chinese knock-offs all over Amazon. I always read the fine print and make damn sure I'm ordering the REAL Wagos. There is a HUGE difference between a genuine Wago and the knock offs.
I absolutely love them. I don’t use them everywhere but damn, when you need them they are perfect. Reusable, doesn’t damage the wire, you can disconnect only one conductor with having to untwist a nut, the wire is allowed to rotate within the clamp, making it easier to move the connector within the box. So many pluses, imo
I like the way you can connect up all the energized sides of the wires if you're working hot for some reason, and then make the load connections last. Safer as there's no open hot wires exposed that way
From the first time I saw Bill (Sparky) show them I really like them, my trade school companions said they didn’t trust it, I’ve been using them since and not a problem (and I know there are never gonna be any)
Bill, you got me started using the Wago connectors and i won’t go back to the ole wire nut twisters. Wago’s are freakin awesome. Sweet review sir...👍👍👍
Thank you very much. I'll be getting the 12 gauge variety pack, I got a basement project I'm doing and I'm upgrading my cheap power outlets to weather Proof GFCI outlets. This will come in handy.
Those 773's look perfect. I always wondered if there was a better way than twist connections. Not that they can't be successful when done right, but they can be a little time consuming. Especially when making sure you got it right. Thanks for posting this, it's rad!
Use Wagos now and the person who comes along a few years from now to replace the outlet or switch with a smart outlet or smart switch will thank you. That person might even be you.
Yes, it’s a bit early to find this yet. Even new construction, when I’m asked to replace outlets and switches for whatever the reason, I have yet to see them. I had one client, who was familiar with wiring, question me if WAGO’s were to code.
I just used a wago connector to get out of the jam. 🙈 I replaced two new switches which were not working and ended up having to replace the gang box as well because it was cracked; one switch is for the porch light and the other is for a switched outlet. There was not enough wiring to twist the wires together too create an extension doing pigtail so I used a wago connector instead. It Worked perfect. 😁
I'm surprised they didn't show the new Wago 221-2401 & 221-2411. Those are inline splice connectors. I used them to lengthen a few wires during a panel swap. They don't take up a lot of room, and they look a LOT better than those fugly wire nuts. I used NO TAPE! AND they're approved in the US, Canada, and Europe.
Doing some remodeling at home and I've been using the Ideal push connectors for solid wire, but I find them impossible to use with stranded wire on new light fixtures. I bought a box of Wago lever nuts and they're perfect for that. They were definitely worth the price and I wish I'd been using them all along.
I haven’t switched over just yet to just using them but years ago I learned to use them just to extend short ass wires the got that way because it got blow up or whatever then wire from there. I saw a test video on TH-cam were this guy put 100amps (10v) and even when they finally burned up the electrical connections were still good! I’m switching as soon as I can.
I'm not a professional electrician, but I do a little work here and there around my house. They just opened a Menards near me that carry Wagos, and I'll certainly be using them from here on out.
I love wago connectors, they are just pricey. Wire nuts are good and I use them a lot. A lot of wires in older houses are short due to being cut multiple times. So if you don’t want to re run a line then it saves headaches
I switched to Wagos ever since seeing Bill use them on his original channel years ago, and have never looked back, I love 'em! Of course, there'll always be a place for traditional twist connectors, but Wagos are the way to go... ...wait a sec... way, to go... Wago. Okay, got it!
@@benjaminvivar7855 I'm sure this question was meant for Sparky, but for me, I use wire nuts or twisters specifically for low-voltage cable (grouped wire such as THWN 10, 12, or 14 gauge) or for 22 or 24 AWG electronic (low-voltage) wiring. I don't think this constitutes a more "effective" means, but I do know the primary reason why I elect to use twisters or wire nuts is because I have way too many in my collection! Haha
These are great, space saving, time saving just all around good connectors. Have trouble believing they are a gas tight connection tho because you can still twist the wire after it’s clamped down
I was hesitant as how much material was actually connecting with the copper wire but after watching 120amps going thru these, think I will start using.
The 10 AWG Lever Nut is the best thing since sliced bread. I know im gonna get a lot of shit but ive had wire nuts fail on me even though i twisted it onto the conductor and twisted the conductors together. Ive since been phasing out wire nuts and been replacing them with the WAGO Lever nuts. Like I said the 10 AWG is the best!
With wire nuts, the formal instructions I got from professionals were to _not_ twist the wires; instead, they were to be parallel and straight, and the wire nut's threads were to clamp onto the wires.
Same here, I don't like wire twist/wire nuts. On thinner ga wire the wire nut will twist the copper wires together, but it sure doesnt on 10 or 12 ga wire, so unless you pre-twist, those two wires are laid side by side just contacting the ribbed metal inside of the wire nuts, and wire nuts are a real PITA if you have a junction box where each color has 4 or 5 #12 conductors! the WAGO comes in 2,3,4,5 so you can easily connect 2,3,4, or 5 black, white, green conductors in them. The WAGO is FAR better, I replaced all the wire nuts in my house with WAGO connectors
I like the lever nuts for stranded wire. The wire strands can fan out giving a lot of surface contact. However I don’t like them for solid wire. The wire is round but the cage is square. Very little contact surface.
Your comment got me thinking about contact area in a wire nut, and I think wire nuts DO give you as much surface area as Wagos. Think about your solid wire example: the round wire is twisted and shoved into the wire nut. Hold up your right hand and make an OK sign to simulate a wire nut, then stick your left index finger in the O to simulate the wire. If you press your left index finger to any of the sides you get only one side of the wire making contact with the wire nut. Your finger-wire only increases its contact area when it comes into contact with another wire, and two sides are connected, etc. In a wire nut the amount of surface area that is being used to pass current is going to depend on the number of conductors they are bundled in with. For Wagos, there are always two sides of the wire making contact, and the contact area for each wire will always be consistent regardless of the number of wires used. So that is what it boils down to: are you the kind of guy who wants wires getting the most surface contact even though you can't see inside of the wire nut to check, or are you the type who would rather have a UL rated, guaranteed connection for every wire that is easily inspected after installation?
I see on the Wago website the 773s can be used with aluminum wiring when used with their Alu-Plus, are they certified for this in the USA/Canada? Thanks!
Ironically enough, I have to work with Wago PLCs (programmable logic controllers) for work and hate the things with a passion - mostly because of how much a pain it is to insert and remove wires from them. They've got the same cage clamp type connector but instead of a lever you have to insert a flat screwdriver and tweak it in exactly the right way to get the cage to open to accept or release the wire. Yet I'm seriously considering using these connectors to finish the wiring in my shop. That little lever makes all the difference.
Did you use the WAGO screwdriver (210-719)? With those you can smoothly (one move, less than a second) open the port (ofcourse it wont if you have never done it before), even keep it latched. Then just insert the wire and pull the screwdriver. I did the home automation at my home, and had no issues with inserting (.75mm2) wires (stranded, no ferrule).
@@marcoboot18 No, I used a bog-standard tweaker that our technicians carry around for working in panels. I wasn't aware that Wago had a special screwdriver. Given that we only have one site we manage that has these things (and we'll be removing them all next year, hopefully), I don't think I'm going to bother to get our people to order one. Still, that's good to know about in case we ever pick up another site with these things.
Hi, The wago is cantilevered internally with a spring. You can pull up on the lever a bit and nothing will happen. The mechanism does not "engage" until you start to feel pressure on the lever and then it snaps open. The little bit of movement is just free play that does not affect the spring pressure.
I saw an experiment on TH-cam (on a channel by a guy who uses Wago, not a detractor) where he found that raising the lever just a little actually reduced the holding power of the nut by a consistent amount. I was surprised, as I would have though it wouldn't make any difference. However, this doesn't worry me, and I use these regularly, and love them.
Chevy vs Ford. Charcoal vs Gas. Lot of opinions out there on these but at the end of the day the old dinosaurs will never accept improvements so it doesn't matter which technology they are presented with. These are a game changer.
HEY! Speaking as an "Old Dinosaur," I've been using Wago LeverNuts ever since I first found them! I just got through sending a link for this video to a NEWbie I've been trying to convince on LeverNuts for more than a year now. So, don't be giving us any of your biased opinions about "old people" lest one of them be tempted to hit you with their cane right in the WireNuts. 😀 Now, this "Old Dinosaur" needs to go see if Sparky has a video on 3M Scotchlok Electrical Part Number IDC 562 and 3M Scotchlok Electrical Part Number IDC 567 -- which are two of my favourite connectors for installing a compact "tap" splice into a box! Being IDCs, they do not require cutting the "runner" -- which means, if you remove them, you can simply "re-insulate" (i.e. tape) the wire and move on. SFAIK, these are the only IDC Tap Splices rated for 600 Volts (most everything else is designed for "automotive" or other "low voltage" use).
I'm a dinosaur that has 40 years experience. My father owned a big electric company and my grandfather was a electric contractor. Wire nuts just came out when I started. Wired thousands of houses and apartments and had 10 service trucks at one time. We never had a problem with wire nuts. I live in Arizona and it's hot here. If technology is better I'm all for it. But we never really had any problems with wire nuts.
@@bigmike9433 One of the advantages of WireNuts (and there are several), is that they do not "carry" any of the current. Done properly, their sole purpose is to "hold the wires together" so they maintain conduction wire-to-wire. Lever nuts, by contrast, are "in circuit." Most of the time, this is not an issue because the circuit has "over-current protection" and the LeverNut ratings all exceed the standard current rating of the wires for which they are sized... That said, we all know that, on occasion, the over-current protection does not function as anticipated (think "penny behind the fuse). At that point, there may be circumstances where the LeverNut becomes the "weakest link" in the downstream connections. Whether that is "good" or "bad" depends upon circumstances; but, with a properly installed WireNut, that concern is off the table...
Sounds pretty good for vibration on hardwired machines and devices i.e. Garage heaters but still the uneasy factor on how little effort it takes for the lever to lift. Should have a slide locking nub or something. Seems like the lever could pop up easy when pushing conductors into a box and not notice the ones burried further back. Always manipulating conductors to get them to fit the recpticle in also
I'd like to see a locking swing-over latch as well, but if you ever test these it's clear that you have to lift it all the way up to get it to let go of the wire so they kind of engineered loose levers in to the design.
The video missed a couple of my favourite tips and applications for these devices! 1. Wago LeverNuts have the "Wago Logo" (try saying that three times fast ;-) ) and the base part number printed on one -- and only one -- of the levers. I *ALWAYS* use the port operated by that lever for the "feed" wire. Yes, I know, you should always use a meter or touch the wire to your [apprentice's] tongue to see if it is really hot. This just makes a nice cross-check and tells me, should I need to break a connection for emergency purposes, which wire to NOT pull from the connector. 2. This was hinted at in the video; but, to my mind, not emphasized enough. This connector makes it easy to add and subtract wires from the connection. So long as you don't pull the "hot" wire and leave the bare end dangling about (see #1, above), you can use this feature for a quick "tap" into a circuit without having to "untwist" and "re-twist" everything. And, yes, if you're careful, that sort of process can be done on a live circuit -- with roughly the same risk as plugging in an extension cord. 3. In certain applications, I like to use the "next size larger" LeverNut than what is required. This provides an easy way to add in another connection at a junction point later without tearing things apart and reassembling (see #2, above). And, yes, if you're careful, that sort of process can be done on a live circuit -- with roughly the same risk as plugging in an extension cord. 4. I especially like these LeverNuts for working with old wiring! Occasionally, I will run into a feed wire that has some age on it. The insulation is still "good" but, unlike its younger brethren, it is not up to the repeated flexing inherent in twisting and untwisting and twisting again. Using a LeverNut = "no twisting required" so you minimize the potential damage. Recently, I helped a friend track down an electrical failure. We found a light fixture where a wire had "burned off" of the connection inside the box. Of course, it was the feed wire. Fortunately, there had been an excess of wire in the box -- to start with; unfortunately, by the time we removed all the burnt and discoloured wire back to where where the insulation was sound, we had only about an inch of "good wire" inside the box. With a ceiling-mounted box and a long run of feed wire through "hard lid," we would have been talking some MAJOR sheet rock work to replace the wire. Fortunately, with an inch of wire, we were able to strip a half-inch of insulation and use a LeverNut to reconnect everything to the feed. At the end, with a pigtail to the original fixture, instead of multiple wires under one-screw -- which started the problem in the first place, we were able to restore service in a safe and sane manner. That could not have been accomplished with a WireNut. Good Job Wago!
1:53 what does gas tight seal mean? Just that the small contact pressure point is high enough to exclude oxygen and prevent oxidation? It's not sealed otherwise, so it's not referring to things like hermetically sealed connectors.
There are 2773 on the stand while it says 2273 in the annotation. They look very similar, but there is still some difference. Mainly it is that 2773 can take multi stranded wires while 2273 only for single wire conductors.
Its screws with an impact cordless brushless driver vs. rusted, bent, greasy nails using a rock for a hammer! 🤣🤣🤣 Its just smart to use improved technology, in all trades.
I like the Wago connectors, but wasn't too excited about the old lever ones. These new ones are much better. Like anything new there's the usual skepticism that needs to be overcome.
Great videos, please keep making them! Quick question, I have aluminum wiring in my home can I use the 2273 or 773's for mixed use (Aluminum & Copper)? The Wago spec's sheets indicate use of both, but I was under the impression I had to use the gel filled AlumiConn style connectors. Those things are so bulking that I often can't get them into the boxes when replacing older receptacles, light fixtures, and/or switches.
The inconvenient truth is that there's no good solution for joining aluminum and copper. The safe methods are too expensive, and the affordable methods aren't safe. The patents on Copalum should have all expired by now. It's too bad somebody else hasn't come out with a "generic" version. I assume the market is too small, and the liability issues are too big, to make it profitable.
They use them in Europe for aluminum and copper but they are not certified for North America. You still have to use their Nolax with them. Almost ordered from eBay from a seller in Russia but had to order in too big of a lot.
Wagos really are great. How do they stack up cost wise over wire nuts from a contractor standpoint? You can get a large container of wire nuts fairly cheap versus much smaller wago bulk buys. It seems like using the wagos are better for a small job or for some specialized installations. Any comment? I was hoping you would have addressed that with the wago rep. Thank you for the wonderful service you provide for us!
Thanks so much Paul! I think you hit it right on the head saying the wirenuts are considerably cheaper especially with bulk buys. Yes, that would have been a good question for Evan. I think there are lots of advantages to using the Wagos so to me its worth it to pay a little extra but everyone seems to have their own opinion on that.
@@SparkyChannel Thanks Bill. I am a fan as well as they have saved me time and space in boxes! It would be interesting to poll folks on the question and since these are time savers; if the cost is comparable overall. Time is money as they say. Hmmm.
Yeah, the bad thing about the twist connectors is that it "damages" the wiring and make it difficult to reuse if you need to replace something! You usually end up cutting off the exposed wire and stripping it agin to make another connection if you need to replace something. With the WAGO, you just lift the lever, make you changes and install it again, no waste!
Guess buying from a Eu company is then the option for you as we got even lever-nut as long as it’s light switches etc. because plugs are not the same in you side? I didn’t suspect that that stuff is still the standard in the us.
5:19 The test port is a nice idea but the opening appears to be too small for typical probes, it needs to be forcibly pushed through the plastic gap, deforming it before making contact with the conductors. Be aware of that if you're safety checking for power before working. It may not actually be making contact if you aren't using thin profile probes, and give the impression the circuit isn't hot.
@@GoalOrientedLifting or use a NCV tester, which ends up more reliable than trying to use the test port or an occupied port. If you always leave an open port for test access then that'd be good. Or just get new probes that will work more easily with the test port.
Ive got one in my hand now, the front test port is a bit skinny but the test port in the back is more than wide enough for standard test probes. Also you can literally see thru the connector to see if your probe is making conact or not.
Love the Wagos! Huge time saver and results in neater work. Gonna be haters out there. Always is with something new. The people who hate on these probably hate on Shark bites as well! LOL
Hello Mr Sparky, I love using the Wego Lever nuts. I can't find and answer from Wego, if you have time, could you find the answer to this question: Why does the levernut 221 series come in 2, 3, 5 port but not 4 conductor versions? If a 5 port is used, with only 4 conductors, should the connector then be wrapped in tape to protect the open port? Thank you so much for your videos!
probaly because 4 isnt used that much. 2is just for inline use 3 for normal socket use and 5 for distribution boxes. so i guess there is no demand then otherwise they would have made them. and probaly also to reduce cost saving on the whole production line. and you dont need to cover the hole they should not be in a place where it would be a problem since its not waterproof. so just leave it open. it aint easy to stick something in that deep to accidently put voltage on something else. but even then still you shouldnt work while voltage is present altho we all do it xD
@@SparkyChannel just ordered my first wago kit,been running receptacles, and swtches for ice dam heat cable on roof edge,230v for welder ,ill be using stranded, and solid, 12 ga,,for the receptacles, from san diego also now nw arkansas,learning alot from your videos
@@SparkyChannel If you use a digital camera, like DSLR or mirrorless you can manually focus. Of course you'd need a tripod and make sure the setup is relatively static - unless you do all the focusing lol. Autofocus is really pretty good these days, but I understand that it can struggle with lots of movement.
WAGO allows for stranded and solid, with no issues, unlike twist on connectors, where small stranded on light fixtures, to solid 14ga or 12 ga. WAGO, better. GERMAN engineering.
It would seem that the Lever-Nuts designed for 20-10 gauge would be more suitable for home wiring applications as it is rated for 30A and covers the 14-12-10 gauge wires typically used for home lighting and receptacle projects. It would give you a bit more safety margin on the amperage. Or am I wrong in my thinking?
So many people review Knipex pliers, and get grilled in the comments about pronunciation. Yet rarely do I see the same of Wiha, Wera, Wago, etc, when in German, W is a V.
That's because most of those people who do t he grilling don't have the W sound in their native language and won't hear the difference between W and V easily.
Excellent for troubleshooting. You can safely disconnect a hot wire (the downstream wire). You can connect your meter leads to it.. you can twist together Belden cable wiring and clamp it and you just don’t have any of those options with wire nuts.
Sounds like you are a paid spokes person. They are dangerous to use in a house. When it heats up and fails and a family dies YOU will have to live with what you said. I have been doing electrical work for 40 years and i would never use this in my house wiring. It has it's applications but a house is not one of them. Shame on you
@@leostgeorge2080 I read my own comment again. How do you extrapolate a person being a residential electrician based off what I said? First of all, residential is the easiest electrical to work with. If a person needs to be troubleshooting with residential, I think there are bigger problems. Secondly, how often do you hear of Belden cable being used in residential? Do you even know what Belden cable is? Probably not.. you, sir, should probably stick with residential where things are simple. Wagos are UL tested, listed, and labeled.. that’s all I need. You are probably also unfamiliar with those terms too. Have a good retirement
@@dougleydorite First as i can see you know i am right and take the convo else where. Second never said i only worked residential. In fact 85% or more is commercial machine controls. I think you need to find a new job because you suck at sales. If you wore any good at electrical you would not be in sales. Those who can't do sell.
@@leostgeorge2080 commercial and machine controls are often mutually exclusive... I think you just need to drink a warm glass of milk and take it easy..
@@dougleydorite Your video shows residential use. Now you run all over the board with all kinds of distractions never addressing a single concern i have of the product. You need a new line of work. You suck at this one. Keep selling but find something else because electrical is not your thing. Maybe try water softeners? Pudding for the elderly? Oh i know toilet paper since your full of it!
![ILLSLICK - Homies Feat. LILY [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/r6jGK7MumF0/mqdefault.jpg)
26 years of twisting wire takes its toll. These are a God-send!
I hear that! Happy new year!
Only 25 years? Weakling. Try 40 years. Lol.
Yep that and none of us old farts ever used power tool to set screws. Know several old sparkies with carpal tunnel & elbow problems. Was going to get my carpel tunnel operated on a few months before I retired but delayed it. Seldom bothers me since retiring so not getting operation done.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp smart move, amigo. Both my shoulders are supposed to be replaced. I don't care how much pain I'm in, that's not happening.
Did my entire garage with 221's and have absolutely zero issues. Way better than clunky and questionable wire nuts!!
They’re more expensive than wire nuts but for short conductors they’re a God send. Great, great product. I love them!!
Sounds good Ron!
Wago's work great on old homes. Where wires are short and deep in the back of the box. Thanks
The Wago system really is excellent. They also make junction boxes that lock the connectors into place with strain relief built in, the bonus is that when the connectors are pushed into the box, the levers are held into place by the structure of the junction box. A true maintenance free system.
After many jobs involving old work, I too often come across wire leads that are too short either at installation or for who knows what reason the wires end up short probably by too many wiring, unwiring and rewiring cycles (by work hardening induced brittleness due to replacement of a failed socket, upgrading a switch, etc.). Try wiring a short lead with a wire nut. WAGO’s make this possible without having to do major surgery on the circuit.
I’ve been an electrician in the US since 1989, I love these.
Me too. Thanks Ryan!
I carry them all the time in my truck, use them a lot when troubleshooting or for continuity test when coming to a pull box with multiple circuits, rarely leave them in the boxes I usually replace them with regular wire nuts once I got everything figured it out. Sometimes I leave them in if I’m splicing 4 to 5 #12s in a box with other circuits, Easier to bend/push them in when spliced. Will buy the new ones for #10s.
Sounds good Roberto!
I love these connectors, use them all of the time and never experienced any issue whatsoever. Just be sure to buy the authentic WAGO and not the Chinese knock-offs.
EXACTLY. There are cheap Chinese knock-offs all over Amazon. I always read the fine print and make damn sure I'm ordering the REAL Wagos. There is a HUGE difference between a genuine Wago and the knock offs.
I absolutely love them. I don’t use them everywhere but damn, when you need them they are perfect. Reusable, doesn’t damage the wire, you can disconnect only one conductor with having to untwist a nut, the wire is allowed to rotate within the clamp, making it easier to move the connector within the box. So many pluses, imo
Thanks!
I like the way you can connect up all the energized sides of the wires if you're working hot for some reason, and then make the load connections last. Safer as there's no open hot wires exposed that way
Mr. Sparky, your who first showed me wago years ago. What an awesome find. Thank you!
My pleasure!
GOOD TO KNOW EVERY DAY YOU LEARN SOMETHING DIFERENT. THANK SPARKY FOR SHARING THIS VIDEO.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Been using WAGO for years. It is so superior . Besides being faster, and sure you can open the lever and not have a twisted mess.
I agree, thanks!
I think Ideal are running them close now, so would say they are a little better.
Been using these for awhile and I love them. Just like I love Sharkbites... These make my boxes neat and that's a plus.
Sounds good!
I hope this becomes standard in res building. It is so much easier and safer for homeowner diy.
Thanks!
homeowner here... i replaced an electric cooktop. i used these instead of wire nuts. so easy! the wire nuts destroyed the stranded ends :|
As an amature, I adore these things.
Yes sir! :)
As a professional, I adore these things.
As a DIY guy, take my money!
From the first time I saw Bill (Sparky) show them I really like them, my trade school companions said they didn’t trust it, I’ve been using them since and not a problem (and I know there are never gonna be any)
Yes these indeed are for amatures that do not realize this is not as good of a connection as the actual wires being twisted together under a wire nut
Bill, you got me started using the Wago connectors and i won’t go back to the ole wire nut twisters. Wago’s are freakin awesome. Sweet review sir...👍👍👍
Yes, I thought that Evan did a great job, thanks!
I love WAGO connectors, couldn't make it without them! Use them!
Sounds good Mark!
Great for the job, excellent for practice stations at Trade Schools, etc.
Old school trades people always are skeptical of new tech. I hate twist nuts, always a hassle. I will be trying these on next project.
Sounds good!
Very impressed with these. So much easier to create complicated pigtails and a big plus is they take up a lot less space in a box.
I agree!
Wago for the win. Twist on wire nuts are obsolete
I love my Wago's. No more wirenuts! Best thing since sliced bread! I use both 221 and 222's. The 10AWG gauge 221's are great.
Sounds good!
Thank you very much. I'll be getting the 12 gauge variety pack, I got a basement project I'm doing and I'm upgrading my cheap power outlets to weather Proof GFCI outlets. This will come in handy.
Excellent!
The best thing since sliced bread .. Love them use them a lot brilliant 👍👍
Yes they are, thanks John!
Good especially when installing a ceiling light where you splice stranded with solid.
Yes, they are excellent for that.
I was made aware of these from sparky channel and I really like working with them. They’re especially good with short conductors in old boxes.
Hi Ron! Yes, I agree! Happy Father's Day!
Love the Wago connectors.
Me too, thanks!
Those 773's look perfect. I always wondered if there was a better way than twist connections.
Not that they can't be successful when done right, but they can be a little time consuming. Especially when making sure you got it right.
Thanks for posting this, it's rad!
No problem, thanks!
Use Wagos now and the person who comes along a few years from now to replace the outlet or switch with a smart outlet or smart switch will thank you. That person might even be you.
Yes, it’s a bit early to find this yet. Even new construction, when I’m asked to replace outlets and switches for whatever the reason, I have yet to see them. I had one client, who was familiar with wiring, question me if WAGO’s were to code.
I just used a wago connector to get out of the jam. 🙈 I replaced two new switches which were not working and ended up having to replace the gang box as well because it was cracked; one switch is for the porch light and the other is for a switched outlet. There was not enough wiring to twist the wires together too create an extension doing pigtail so I used a wago connector instead. It Worked perfect. 😁
Perfect for short wires.
Definitely better when connecting stranded wire to solid wire, hard as hell with a wire nut doing stranded to solid
Yes, the Wagos are great for connecting solid to stranded.
I'm surprised they didn't show the new Wago 221-2401 & 221-2411. Those are inline splice connectors. I used them to lengthen a few wires during a panel swap. They don't take up a lot of room, and they look a LOT better than those fugly wire nuts. I used NO TAPE! AND they're approved in the US, Canada, and Europe.
I think they weren't out at time of release of the video.
I just ordered a kit of those on Amazon. I can see a lot of uses for these, especially in regards to automotive applications.
Doing some remodeling at home and I've been using the Ideal push connectors for solid wire, but I find them impossible to use with stranded wire on new light fixtures. I bought a box of Wago lever nuts and they're perfect for that. They were definitely worth the price and I wish I'd been using them all along.
Excellent! Thanks Doc.
I just bought a bunch of the Wago lever nuts in 12 AWG. As a DIY guy I’m looking forward to using these.
I haven’t switched over just yet to just using them but years ago I learned to use them just to extend short ass wires the got that way because it got blow up or whatever then wire from there. I saw a test video on TH-cam were this guy put 100amps (10v) and even when they finally burned up the electrical connections were still good! I’m switching as soon as I can.
Using anything but these is just cheap, so superior to everything else. Most important wires are flexible anyway...
Been using wagos for 15 years in Norway. Wire nuts I've barely used luckily.
Thanks for the information!
I'm not a professional electrician, but I do a little work here and there around my house. They just opened a Menards near me that carry Wagos, and I'll certainly be using them from here on out.
Sounds good!
Thanks Sparky very informative you asked all the right questions.
Thanks!
Great info and demo Bill and Michelle ...
Thanks Eddy!
These are my favorite. I’ve been able to convert a couple of people
Where are you from?
Just got my first “ hundred “ today at work. Thanks Sparky.
Rock on!
There is a lot going for them. Visible, Probe-able, Reworkable, Twistable.
Thanks Mark! Happy New Year!
I love wago connectors, they are just pricey. Wire nuts are good and I use them a lot. A lot of wires in older houses are short due to being cut multiple times. So if you don’t want to re run a line then it saves headaches
Good points!
I switched to Wagos ever since seeing Bill use them on his original channel years ago, and have never looked back, I love 'em! Of course, there'll always be a place for traditional twist connectors, but Wagos are the way to go... ...wait a sec... way, to go... Wago. Okay, got it!
LOL! WAY-TO_GO!
In your opinion when are traditional twist connectors more effective (necessary) than Wagos ? If you don’t mind me tapping into your brain.
@@benjaminvivar7855 I'm sure this question was meant for Sparky, but for me, I use wire nuts or twisters specifically for low-voltage cable (grouped wire such as THWN 10, 12, or 14 gauge) or for 22 or 24 AWG electronic (low-voltage) wiring. I don't think this constitutes a more "effective" means, but I do know the primary reason why I elect to use twisters or wire nuts is because I have way too many in my collection! Haha
Red Solo Cup Thank you
Whaaa?
These are such a great invention and a great idea! I have some of these just for repairs around the house if needed!
These are great, space saving, time saving just all around good connectors. Have trouble believing they are a gas tight connection tho because you can still twist the wire after it’s clamped down
And if you twist it, then it is gas tight again in the new location.
Same questions in Europe only 20 years ago.
I'm sold
I was hesitant as how much material was actually connecting with the copper wire but after watching 120amps going thru these, think I will start using.
Sounds good!
Another great video Sparky. He likes his product.
Thanks Gary! Yes, and Evan was very knowledgeable.
Love Sparkman and these connectors! Use them each week! Please thumbs up and follow Sparkman! He’s the best on the web!
Thanks so much Joe. The channel is really coming back! :)
The 10 AWG Lever Nut is the best thing since sliced bread. I know im gonna get a lot of shit but ive had wire nuts fail on me even though i twisted it onto the conductor and twisted the conductors together. Ive since been phasing out wire nuts and been replacing them with the WAGO Lever nuts. Like I said the 10 AWG is the best!
Yes, the 10AWG is very robust.
With wire nuts, the formal instructions I got from professionals were to _not_ twist the wires; instead, they were to be parallel and straight, and the wire nut's threads were to clamp onto the wires.
Same here, I don't like wire twist/wire nuts. On thinner ga wire the wire nut will twist the copper wires together, but it sure doesnt on 10 or 12 ga wire, so unless you pre-twist, those two wires are laid side by side just contacting the ribbed metal inside of the wire nuts, and wire nuts are a real PITA if you have a junction box where each color has 4 or 5 #12 conductors! the WAGO comes in 2,3,4,5 so you can easily connect 2,3,4, or 5 black, white, green conductors in them. The WAGO is FAR better, I replaced all the wire nuts in my house with WAGO connectors
Great video and great product!
Thanks Geoffrey!
I like the lever nuts for stranded wire. The wire strands can fan out giving a lot of surface contact. However I don’t like them for solid wire. The wire is round but the cage is square. Very little contact surface.
Your comment got me thinking about contact area in a wire nut, and I think wire nuts DO give you as much surface area as Wagos. Think about your solid wire example: the round wire is twisted and shoved into the wire nut. Hold up your right hand and make an OK sign to simulate a wire nut, then stick your left index finger in the O to simulate the wire. If you press your left index finger to any of the sides you get only one side of the wire making contact with the wire nut. Your finger-wire only increases its contact area when it comes into contact with another wire, and two sides are connected, etc. In a wire nut the amount of surface area that is being used to pass current is going to depend on the number of conductors they are bundled in with. For Wagos, there are always two sides of the wire making contact, and the contact area for each wire will always be consistent regardless of the number of wires used. So that is what it boils down to: are you the kind of guy who wants wires getting the most surface contact even though you can't see inside of the wire nut to check, or are you the type who would rather have a UL rated, guaranteed connection for every wire that is easily inspected after installation?
Great info, thanks for the upload.
You bet!
If I am attaching 2 hot or neutral wires, nuts are fine. But for 4+ grounds these are what I use.
Great salesman.
Consider Wago gelbox for moist/wet applications
I see on the Wago website the 773s can be used with aluminum wiring when used with their Alu-Plus, are they certified for this in the USA/Canada?
Thanks!
Ironically enough, I have to work with Wago PLCs (programmable logic controllers) for work and hate the things with a passion - mostly because of how much a pain it is to insert and remove wires from them. They've got the same cage clamp type connector but instead of a lever you have to insert a flat screwdriver and tweak it in exactly the right way to get the cage to open to accept or release the wire.
Yet I'm seriously considering using these connectors to finish the wiring in my shop. That little lever makes all the difference.
Thanks Jeff!
Did you use the WAGO screwdriver (210-719)? With those you can smoothly (one move, less than a second) open the port (ofcourse it wont if you have never done it before), even keep it latched. Then just insert the wire and pull the screwdriver. I did the home automation at my home, and had no issues with inserting (.75mm2) wires (stranded, no ferrule).
@@marcoboot18 No, I used a bog-standard tweaker that our technicians carry around for working in panels.
I wasn't aware that Wago had a special screwdriver. Given that we only have one site we manage that has these things (and we'll be removing them all next year, hopefully), I don't think I'm going to bother to get our people to order one. Still, that's good to know about in case we ever pick up another site with these things.
Hi,
The wago is cantilevered internally with a spring. You can pull up on the lever a bit and nothing will happen. The mechanism does not "engage" until you start to feel pressure on the lever and then it snaps open. The little bit of movement is just free play that does not affect the spring pressure.
I saw an experiment on TH-cam (on a channel by a guy who uses Wago, not a detractor) where he found that raising the lever just a little actually reduced the holding power of the nut by a consistent amount. I was surprised, as I would have though it wouldn't make any difference. However, this doesn't worry me, and I use these regularly, and love them.
Yes reduced holding force from 25lbs to 20lbs
Great video, thanks for the information
Glad it was helpful!
These lever locks rock, but you know that already.
I agree!
I've had a lifted lever catch and release! Give them a tape wrap to safety them!
how? Also they sell boxes to mount them in with strain relief if used in places like ceilings/floors
If you want a better piece of mind, wrapping with tape will work!
Chevy vs Ford. Charcoal vs Gas. Lot of opinions out there on these but at the end of the day the old dinosaurs will never accept improvements so it doesn't matter which technology they are presented with. These are a game changer.
HEY! Speaking as an "Old Dinosaur," I've been using Wago LeverNuts ever since I first found them! I just got through sending a link for this video to a NEWbie I've been trying to convince on LeverNuts for more than a year now. So, don't be giving us any of your biased opinions about "old people" lest one of them be tempted to hit you with their cane right in the WireNuts. 😀
Now, this "Old Dinosaur" needs to go see if Sparky has a video on 3M Scotchlok Electrical Part Number IDC 562 and 3M Scotchlok Electrical Part Number IDC 567 -- which are two of my favourite connectors for installing a compact "tap" splice into a box! Being IDCs, they do not require cutting the "runner" -- which means, if you remove them, you can simply "re-insulate" (i.e. tape) the wire and move on. SFAIK, these are the only IDC Tap Splices rated for 600 Volts (most everything else is designed for "automotive" or other "low voltage" use).
I'm a dinosaur that has 40 years experience. My father owned a big electric company and my grandfather was a electric contractor. Wire nuts just came out when I started. Wired thousands of houses and apartments and had 10 service trucks at one time. We never had a problem with wire nuts. I live in Arizona and it's hot here. If technology is better I'm all for it. But we never really had any problems with wire nuts.
@@bigmike9433 One of the advantages of WireNuts (and there are several), is that they do not "carry" any of the current. Done properly, their sole purpose is to "hold the wires together" so they maintain conduction wire-to-wire. Lever nuts, by contrast, are "in circuit." Most of the time, this is not an issue because the circuit has "over-current protection" and the LeverNut ratings all exceed the standard current rating of the wires for which they are sized...
That said, we all know that, on occasion, the over-current protection does not function as anticipated (think "penny behind the fuse). At that point, there may be circumstances where the LeverNut becomes the "weakest link" in the downstream connections. Whether that is "good" or "bad" depends upon circumstances; but, with a properly installed WireNut, that concern is off the table...
Sounds pretty good for vibration on hardwired machines and devices i.e. Garage heaters but still the uneasy factor on how little effort it takes for the lever to lift. Should have a slide locking nub or something. Seems like the lever could pop up easy when pushing conductors into a box and not notice the ones burried further back. Always manipulating conductors to get them to fit the recpticle in also
I'd like to see a locking swing-over latch as well, but if you ever test these it's clear that you have to lift it all the way up to get it to let go of the wire so they kind of engineered loose levers in to the design.
Change is always difficult for some people. The things are awesome and you dont have to tape them.
Yep.
Should also mention these connectors also have test points. These should be incorporated Into all electrical accessories.
True.
The video missed a couple of my favourite tips and applications for these devices!
1. Wago LeverNuts have the "Wago Logo" (try saying that three times fast ;-) ) and the base part number printed on one -- and only one -- of the levers. I *ALWAYS* use the port operated by that lever for the "feed" wire. Yes, I know, you should always use a meter or touch the wire to your [apprentice's] tongue to see if it is really hot. This just makes a nice cross-check and tells me, should I need to break a connection for emergency purposes, which wire to NOT pull from the connector.
2. This was hinted at in the video; but, to my mind, not emphasized enough. This connector makes it easy to add and subtract wires from the connection. So long as you don't pull the "hot" wire and leave the bare end dangling about (see #1, above), you can use this feature for a quick "tap" into a circuit without having to "untwist" and "re-twist" everything. And, yes, if you're careful, that sort of process can be done on a live circuit -- with roughly the same risk as plugging in an extension cord.
3. In certain applications, I like to use the "next size larger" LeverNut than what is required. This provides an easy way to add in another connection at a junction point later without tearing things apart and reassembling (see #2, above). And, yes, if you're careful, that sort of process can be done on a live circuit -- with roughly the same risk as plugging in an extension cord.
4. I especially like these LeverNuts for working with old wiring! Occasionally, I will run into a feed wire that has some age on it. The insulation is still "good" but, unlike its younger brethren, it is not up to the repeated flexing inherent in twisting and untwisting and twisting again. Using a LeverNut = "no twisting required" so you minimize the potential damage. Recently, I helped a friend track down an electrical failure. We found a light fixture where a wire had "burned off" of the connection inside the box. Of course, it was the feed wire. Fortunately, there had been an excess of wire in the box -- to start with; unfortunately, by the time we removed all the burnt and discoloured wire back to where where the insulation was sound, we had only about an inch of "good wire" inside the box. With a ceiling-mounted box and a long run of feed wire through "hard lid," we would have been talking some MAJOR sheet rock work to replace the wire. Fortunately, with an inch of wire, we were able to strip a half-inch of insulation and use a LeverNut to reconnect everything to the feed. At the end, with a pigtail to the original fixture, instead of multiple wires under one-screw -- which started the problem in the first place, we were able to restore service in a safe and sane manner. That could not have been accomplished with a WireNut.
Good Job Wago!
Thanks!
i am right now trying to convince my boss to switch to these because they are so much better than the standard ideal wirenut
I love them but they cost more than the wirenuts.
@@SparkyChannel Here in the EU, Wagos are used almost everywhere. Have a look at amperage test videos on YT.
1:53 what does gas tight seal mean? Just that the small contact pressure point is high enough to exclude oxygen and prevent oxidation? It's not sealed otherwise, so it's not referring to things like hermetically sealed connectors.
I think he misspoke
There are 2773 on the stand while it says 2273 in the annotation. They look very similar, but there is still some difference. Mainly it is that 2773 can take multi stranded wires while 2273 only for single wire conductors.
A billion years ahead of wire nuts
I hear that!
I hear that!
Its screws with an impact cordless brushless driver vs. rusted, bent, greasy nails using a rock for a hammer! 🤣🤣🤣
Its just smart to use improved technology, in all trades.
I like the Wago connectors, but wasn't too excited about the old lever ones. These new ones are much better.
Like anything new there's the usual skepticism that needs to be overcome.
Yes sir!
Great videos, please keep making them! Quick question, I have aluminum wiring in my home can I use the 2273 or 773's for mixed use (Aluminum & Copper)? The Wago spec's sheets indicate use of both, but I was under the impression I had to use the gel filled AlumiConn style connectors. Those things are so bulking that I often can't get them into the boxes when replacing older receptacles, light fixtures, and/or switches.
The inconvenient truth is that there's no good solution for joining aluminum and copper. The safe methods are too expensive, and the affordable methods aren't safe.
The patents on Copalum should have all expired by now. It's too bad somebody else hasn't come out with a "generic" version. I assume the market is too small, and the liability issues are too big, to make it profitable.
They use them in Europe for aluminum and copper but they are not certified for North America. You still have to use their Nolax with them. Almost ordered from eBay from a seller in Russia but had to order in too big of a lot.
When ima have my own smoke alarm company ima include the 5 wire connectors with the hardwired alarms
Wagos really are great. How do they stack up cost wise over wire nuts from a contractor standpoint? You can get a large container of wire nuts fairly cheap versus much smaller wago bulk buys. It seems like using the wagos are better for a small job or for some specialized installations. Any comment? I was hoping you would have addressed that with the wago rep. Thank you for the wonderful service you provide for us!
Thanks so much Paul! I think you hit it right on the head saying the wirenuts are considerably cheaper especially with bulk buys. Yes, that would have been a good question for Evan. I think there are lots of advantages to using the Wagos so to me its worth it to pay a little extra but everyone seems to have their own opinion on that.
@@SparkyChannel Thanks Bill. I am a fan as well as they have saved me time and space in boxes! It would be interesting to poll folks on the question and since these are time savers; if the cost is comparable overall. Time is money as they say. Hmmm.
wagos make their money over the speed and ease of installation and the reliability. Especially in inconvenient places.
Very good sir
The twist connectors never caught up in Europe, at least where I am at. The Wago is all over since the beginning.
I understand. I think they're great!
Yeah, the bad thing about the twist connectors is that it "damages" the wiring and make it difficult to reuse if you need to replace something! You usually end up cutting off the exposed wire and stripping it agin to make another connection if you need to replace something. With the WAGO, you just lift the lever, make you changes and install it again, no waste!
Correct me if I am wrong, but I think wire nuts are illegal in some countries in Europe.
I would love to see a line of receptacles and switches based on the lever-nut concept. It could be a viable replacement for the push-in connection.
Interesting!
Guess buying from a Eu company is then the option for you as we got even lever-nut as long as it’s light switches etc. because plugs are not the same in you side? I didn’t suspect that that stuff is still the standard in the us.
5:19 The test port is a nice idea but the opening appears to be too small for typical probes, it needs to be forcibly pushed through the plastic gap, deforming it before making contact with the conductors. Be aware of that if you're safety checking for power before working. It may not actually be making contact if you aren't using thin profile probes, and give the impression the circuit isn't hot.
This is why I use one of the ports for probes.
@@GoalOrientedLifting or use a NCV tester, which ends up more reliable than trying to use the test port or an occupied port. If you always leave an open port for test access then that'd be good.
Or just get new probes that will work more easily with the test port.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr gonna get thinner probes, as i find NCV testers to be unreliable, or not useable, on the machinery i work on.
Ive got one in my hand now, the front test port is a bit skinny but the test port in the back is more than wide enough for standard test probes. Also you can literally see thru the connector to see if your probe is making conact or not.
@@phil0083 I don't use the test port either since it's mostly better just using the other side for probing.
Love Wago. These are way better than wire nuts.
Thanks Stephen!
Can I use these with12 gauge and 16 gauge automotive wire?? ie- Automobile use
I think I love Evan. :)
Love the Wagos! Huge time saver and results in neater work. Gonna be haters out there. Always is with something new. The people who hate on these probably hate on Shark bites as well! LOL
Thanks Tom!
As a home owner/DIYer I LOVE these!! So easy to use. And as was pointed out take up a lot less space in the box.
Hello Mr Sparky,
I love using the Wego Lever nuts.
I can't find and answer from Wego, if you have time, could you find the answer to this question:
Why does the levernut 221 series come in 2, 3, 5 port but not 4 conductor versions?
If a 5 port is used, with only 4 conductors, should the connector then be wrapped in tape to protect the open port?
Thank you so much for your videos!
probaly because 4 isnt used that much. 2is just for inline use 3 for normal socket use and 5 for distribution boxes. so i guess there is no demand then otherwise they would have made them. and probaly also to reduce cost saving on the whole production line. and you dont need to cover the hole they should not be in a place where it would be a problem since its not waterproof. so just leave it open. it aint easy to stick something in that deep to accidently put voltage on something else. but even then still you shouldnt work while voltage is present altho we all do it xD
@@DiyNuke Correct most popular sizes for conductors. WAGO does make the 2773 Push in connector in 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8 conductor
can these be used in a load center panel to extend short home run?
Yes.
great innovation, cant find at home depot or lowes, amazon has em
Thanks Mark! Merry Christmas. 🎄
@@SparkyChannel just ordered my first wago kit,been running receptacles, and swtches for ice dam heat cable on roof edge,230v for welder ,ill be using stranded, and solid, 12 ga,,for the receptacles, from san diego also now nw arkansas,learning alot from your videos
will be more awesome if the Wago 221 series also has 8 or 10 connectors like Wago 2773
thanks for asking the questions. your focus is killing me, but otherwise, I appreciate your video.
Thanks! I'll work on the focus.
@@SparkyChannel If you use a digital camera, like DSLR or mirrorless you can manually focus.
Of course you'd need a tripod and make sure the setup is relatively static - unless you do all the focusing lol. Autofocus is really pretty good these days, but I understand that it can struggle with lots of movement.
@@cherrysdiy5005 Thanks, I'll try that.
You guys need inline 10AWG or larger wago connectors. The inline stops at 12awg
Use them often,especially in rv boxes...I’d like to see some color coding....I have had some fails with Levernut popping open during wire tuck in.
Color coding seems like an excellent idea to me.
I agree! Maybe make the levers color coded!
WAGO allows for stranded and solid, with no issues, unlike twist on connectors, where small stranded on light fixtures, to solid 14ga or 12 ga. WAGO, better. GERMAN engineering.
It would seem that the Lever-Nuts designed for 20-10 gauge would be more suitable for home wiring applications as it is rated for 30A and covers the 14-12-10 gauge wires typically used for home lighting and receptacle projects. It would give you a bit more safety margin on the amperage. Or am I wrong in my thinking?
The 20a rated ones can handle much more, infact the wires will fail before the connector.
@@mr.3phase228 That's good to know. Thanks!
You can use the 10 gauge Lever-Nuts for 12 and 14 gauge work. That's not a problem. You can exceed specs if you like.
Get this in focus please!
So many people review Knipex pliers, and get grilled in the comments about pronunciation. Yet rarely do I see the same of Wiha, Wera, Wago, etc, when in German, W is a V.
They’re not in Germany.
@@huejanus5505 True, but that has nothing to do with what I wrote. :P
That's because most of those people who do t he grilling don't have the W sound in their native language and won't hear the difference between W and V easily.
Excellent for troubleshooting. You can safely disconnect a hot wire (the downstream wire). You can connect your meter leads to it.. you can twist together Belden cable wiring and clamp it and you just don’t have any of those options with wire nuts.
Sounds like you are a paid spokes person. They are dangerous to use in a house. When it heats up and fails and a family dies YOU will have to live with what you said. I have been doing electrical work for 40 years and i would never use this in my house wiring. It has it's applications but a house is not one of them. Shame on you
@@leostgeorge2080 I read my own comment again. How do you extrapolate a person being a residential electrician based off what I said? First of all, residential is the easiest electrical to work with. If a person needs to be troubleshooting with residential, I think there are bigger problems. Secondly, how often do you hear of Belden cable being used in residential? Do you even know what Belden cable is? Probably not.. you, sir, should probably stick with residential where things are simple. Wagos are UL tested, listed, and labeled.. that’s all I need. You are probably also unfamiliar with those terms too. Have a good retirement
@@dougleydorite First as i can see you know i am right and take the convo else where. Second never said i only worked residential. In fact 85% or more is commercial machine controls. I think you need to find a new job because you suck at sales. If you wore any good at electrical you would not be in sales. Those who can't do sell.
@@leostgeorge2080 commercial and machine controls are often mutually exclusive... I think you just need to drink a warm glass of milk and take it easy..
@@dougleydorite Your video shows residential use. Now you run all over the board with all kinds of distractions never addressing a single concern i have of the product. You need a new line of work. You suck at this one. Keep selling but find something else because electrical is not your thing. Maybe try water softeners? Pudding for the elderly? Oh i know toilet paper since your full of it!
Can you use four wires into a five port Wogo connector?
Yes, not a problem.
@@SparkyChannel thank you sir!