I have to say your videos are absolutely fantastic, I enjoy the narration that goes with the picking, and the clarity of explanation of how the locks work. I also enjoy the historical snippets that you often insert as well. I can't thank you enough. Mike
+mike herbert Thanks for the high praise, and for watching my videos. My philosophy is to make videos that I would want to watch, with the hope that there's other people like me out there.
as a pin is set too deep, it becomes very difficult to find because there is very little feedback. Interesting castle, rather difficult. I've already sat one (1 hour) on it. Bravo, very well explained & done.
nice! You definitely cleared things up for me. great video and keep up the awesome work. have you had a chance to pick on that medeco I sent? would definitely like to see a video on that when you get the time!
+A&J Locks I never opened that one. Usually those cam locks are rakable, but the bitting on yours wouldn't allow it. Thanks for letting me play with it.
I dare you to lockpick a evva 3ks cylinder lock when sitting in a door(not upside down) and also show a close up of the keyhole after lockpicking it so i can see if the the internals are not gutted out
Nice vid LPL! Ive been hammering away at my DPI, but I'm stuck on the false gates. I have progressively pinned it, and when I am loaded from pin 2 to 5 things are OK. I have false gates at 3 and 4, but I can push past them with a little release of tension. The trouble is when I also pin up 1 and 6. Everytime I can set 2 through 4 (including true gates), and set the false gates on 1 and 6, but If I try to get past them into the true gate I'm forever dropping the other sliders. 1 of 2 things seem to happen. Either I lower the tension too much and drop the others, or when I pop the sidebar out of the false gate, the extra pressure from the slider on the sidebar causes it to pop out of the other sliders. I've tried all sorts of different picking sequences, and both your method of setting all sliders to any gate first, and of setting them to the true gates as I pick them. Still dropping sliders! I'm guessing its about getting the tension just ever so right, but the sweet spot is so tiny! Any tips for me?
It's been a while since I thought of this lock, but it's all in the tension. As heavy as possible is the name of the game! Even with that, you will drop sliders until you find the right order. Good luck!
+Javid Patel Thanks... The 3KS scares me... functionally it is the same as this lock, but it has 7 more sliders and they are harder to manipulate. That said, if I found one at a good price, I'd be all over it.
Thank you for showing me that new rock I know that you are sick you need to take care of yourself you were coughing and you didn't talk very well Take Care thank you very much bye bye
The trap pin arrangement is part of the right sidebar. You can recover from it, but you have to find the little nub poking through the passive sidebar. It's hard to manipulate even when you know exactly where it is.
I use this locks in the office, thought they are kind of secure.... Can you guys recommend the best security lock for a house in EU? I live in Slovakia so would be best if I could buy it here, thanks
+LockPickingLawyer Now that’s something I can organise for you. :) If you want access to one quicker SecuritySnobs.com sell them too, fairly cheaply IIRC (bizarrely, my first BL was easier to acquire via them - from the US - than locally here…). Looking forward to your PM. (:
+Simon Klein Question: I suppose that I assumed Bilocks were far cheaper in Australia than I could get them here on SecSnob. The cheapest one I see on the SS web store is $90USD for a cam lock (Or $100 for a bilock-cored abus padlock, which is probably the better deal). If that's a fair price, I'll just go that route when I'm ready. If you can do materially better in Australia, then we will arrange something.
+LockPickingLawyer I think I can do some fishing for you. (: The BiLock I got from SecSnobs was from their ‘Large Lot’ collection (previously used) - securitysnobs.com/Large-Lot-Locks/ - but sadly it looks like there’s no BiLock listed there anymore. Bugger.
+adrian leon Thank you! For some reason your message went to the "spam" folder! Strange. I set my preferences to always accept your messages and comments. I'm sorry that I have not shipped yours yet. I promise to do so soon. I will send you tracking information when I have it. :-)
It's ether that or the sidebar fingers. As a lockie I have not used this method but have seen the result of people doing it to our locks. It's the same with the EPS range. The lock will appear fine and the key will still work. But so will anything that fits! the core becomes very sloppy.
![[726] The Naughty Bucket Chronicles - Tokoz “Tech 300” Euro Cylinder Picked and Gutted](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2AR-iW480iA/mqdefault.jpg)
![[726] The Naughty Bucket Chronicles — Tokoz “Tech 300” Euro Cylinder Picked and Gutted](/img/tr.png)
![[35] Aeporia Pin-in-Pin Lockwood Challenge Lock Picked and Gutted](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ppxKFAsexdM/mqdefault.jpg)
I have to say your videos are absolutely fantastic, I enjoy the narration that goes with the picking, and the clarity of explanation of how the locks work. I also enjoy the historical snippets that you often insert as well.
I can't thank you enough.
Mike
+mike herbert Thanks for the high praise, and for watching my videos. My philosophy is to make videos that I would want to watch, with the hope that there's other people like me out there.
Great picking/gutting and a well explained tutorial of how it works. Nice lock.
+LockSportSco Thanks!
as a pin is set too deep, it becomes very difficult to find because there is very little feedback. Interesting castle, rather difficult. I've already sat one (1 hour) on it. Bravo, very well explained & done.
Quite an interesting design and as aalways a great teardown at the end.
Thanks!
Well done...
Great picking and very informative video: Thanks!
+dirk Thank you.
nice! You definitely cleared things up for me. great video and keep up the awesome work. have you had a chance to pick on that medeco I sent? would definitely like to see a video on that when you get the time!
+A&J Locks I never opened that one. Usually those cam locks are rakable, but the bitting on yours wouldn't allow it. Thanks for letting me play with it.
Great detailed video Sir.
Very nice picking thanks for sharing 👍👍🍻🔓😘😘
+Pick Beard Thanks.
Man, that lock is nasty
Great picking!
I currently have a EVVA ICS, but not open yet...;o)))
+de Ronchopathe Thanks... I've never seen an ICS. I'll have to check it out.
I dare you to lockpick a evva 3ks cylinder lock when sitting in a door(not upside down) and also show a close up of the keyhole after lockpicking it so i can see if the the internals are not gutted out
Very interesting! Is it the same as Evva EPS or what is the difference?
Nice vid LPL! Ive been hammering away at my DPI, but I'm stuck on the false gates. I have progressively pinned it, and when I am loaded from pin 2 to 5 things are OK. I have false gates at 3 and 4, but I can push past them with a little release of tension. The trouble is when I also pin up 1 and 6. Everytime I can set 2 through 4 (including true gates), and set the false gates on 1 and 6, but If I try to get past them into the true gate I'm forever dropping the other sliders. 1 of 2 things seem to happen. Either I lower the tension too much and drop the others, or when I pop the sidebar out of the false gate, the extra pressure from the slider on the sidebar causes it to pop out of the other sliders. I've tried all sorts of different picking sequences, and both your method of setting all sliders to any gate first, and of setting them to the true gates as I pick them. Still dropping sliders! I'm guessing its about getting the tension just ever so right, but the sweet spot is so tiny! Any tips for me?
It's been a while since I thought of this lock, but it's all in the tension. As heavy as possible is the name of the game! Even with that, you will drop sliders until you find the right order. Good luck!
Nice one !!! Handsome talking skill!!
+Hugo Martel Thank you.
So the false gates are square cut and the true gates are beveled. Wonder if that's part of the fake-out design or simply a manufacturing decision.
any good reason why they don't make deeper false gates so that they are less distinguishable from true gates?
that's amazing picking and I really enjoyed watching that whats next 3ks
+Javid Patel Thanks... The 3KS scares me... functionally it is the same as this lock, but it has 7 more sliders and they are harder to manipulate. That said, if I found one at a good price, I'd be all over it.
Thank you for showing me that new rock I know that you are sick you need to take care of yourself you were coughing and you didn't talk very well Take Care thank you very much bye bye
if you hit the trap pin will it kill the pick & which side is it on. do you touch it at all?
The trap pin arrangement is part of the right sidebar. You can recover from it, but you have to find the little nub poking through the passive sidebar. It's hard to manipulate even when you know exactly where it is.
I use this locks in the office, thought they are kind of secure.... Can you guys recommend the best security lock for a house in EU? I live in Slovakia so would be best if I could buy it here, thanks
@johnny 71c it's been picked and there are even a couple of people selling the tool for it.
Faaaaar out mate. You have well and truly exceeded my skills.
Very, very nicely done.
(Now all I wanna do is send you a BiLock.)
+Simon Klein I would love to try one! I'll PM you over at KP later today. I owe you a reply, but keep forgetting. :(
+LockPickingLawyer PS - You are definitely capable of picking this lock. It just takes some time and practice.
+LockPickingLawyer Now that’s something I can organise for you. :)
If you want access to one quicker SecuritySnobs.com sell them too, fairly cheaply IIRC (bizarrely, my first BL was easier to acquire via them - from the US - than locally here…).
Looking forward to your PM. (:
+Simon Klein Question: I suppose that I assumed Bilocks were far cheaper in Australia than I could get them here on SecSnob. The cheapest one I see on the SS web store is $90USD for a cam lock (Or $100 for a bilock-cored abus padlock, which is probably the better deal). If that's a fair price, I'll just go that route when I'm ready. If you can do materially better in Australia, then we will arrange something.
+LockPickingLawyer I think I can do some fishing for you. (:
The BiLock I got from SecSnobs was from their ‘Large Lot’ collection (previously used) - securitysnobs.com/Large-Lot-Locks/ - but sadly it looks like there’s no BiLock listed there anymore. Bugger.
Can God create a rock that he can not lift? Can LPL design a lock that he couldn't pick?
very good lock has to be difficult to open. he has come my message? and this way I hope your package you like. CHEERS
+adrian leon Thank you! For some reason your message went to the "spam" folder! Strange. I set my preferences to always accept your messages and comments. I'm sorry that I have not shipped yours yet. I promise to do so soon. I will send you tracking information when I have it. :-)
+LockPickingLawyer when you can no rush. CHEERS
Hi LockPickingLawer, does anyone sell practice locks for cylinder locks with side bar?
Pls more
In the first few seconds of the video: Why the hole is vertically wide so that something can be inserted. Must be wavy. Cheaiting?
Good lock unless you have a flat head screw driver! this lock can be forced open.
+GxAxV Interesting. What is the mechanism of the failure? Bent sliders (like the Smartkey weakness)? Something else?
It's ether that or the sidebar fingers. As a lockie I have not used this method but have seen the result of people doing it to our locks. It's the same with the EPS range. The lock will appear fine and the key will still work. But so will anything that fits! the core becomes very sloppy.
Обнял цилиндр и перевернул его, а попробуй так легко вскрыть его под броненакладкой и в неудобных условиях