This brings back a lot of memories. My first engine was the ED bee and this one looks like the ED competition special which was 2cc I believe. Nice work.
+Carmel Pule' I also have the ED Bee, It is a very reliable runner and never fails to start. Check out my engine blog if you are interested in old diesels.and search for your favorites. antiquemodelenginesrunning.blogspot.ca/
@@DavidCrocker-Davideo I was taking into consideration the problems it had, just getting it running. I know nothing of that particular brand, just a few here and there in my life, enough to enjoy a really good running, powerful throaty one, and fooled with enough to know they can be finicky any time. I used to build vehicle engines regularly, and have fooled around a bit with model plane engines, but am old enough to afford the ones I could never even consider as a kid, or as a father. I've got a "29" off ebay with no points, dirty no longer stuck, never run one of them before, but have seen and heard a number running very well on here. I worked on 897 inch diesels, in 200 KW generators for three years, real works, could barely keep them running week to week, because they were stand-by, never loaded or used, and not properly run up and expected to start when power went out.
Great video documentation about the Deezil story!! you got it to the point! I had build for my engine a new stronger shaft,and a new piston,and than its a nice longstroke engine....but you have to do it....if you have the machine and skills.. I love the smal diesels!...have collect somthing about 60+ ...great stuff! Regards Peter,Netherlands
@lexander5 You are absolutely correct the engine just long enough to run out the prime:just a few seconds, but who wants to watch a 6 second video so I looped the segment several times to make it appear like a longer run. Just increasing the compression high enough for ignition will put too much stress on the crank web and cause bending failure.
As a kid we had a small Frog diesel in an RC boat, after many hours of running it seemed to lose compression after some home brew fuel, think it was detergent oil, engine was good as new after cleaning and proper castor based oil in the fuel
When you pour sooooo much fuel thru the exhaust port and fill the crankcase, you cause a 'hydraulic lock'. When you force past the hydraulic lockout, that's when the crank bends........??
Of course! You are perfectly correct. Even this engine can be modified to run very well if, you are an machinist. Take a look at the video response that shows a modified engine running.
True, but this one is called a DEEZIL: perhaps the manufacturer didn't know how to spell "diesel" but the called it the DEEZIL and embossed its name on the front of the crankcase. There were millions of these manufactured back in the old days.
Who ever said that the Deezil is a "Slag" engine is talking through his fundamental orifice. The term Slag is used for vintage engines (not modern) where the piston runs directly in the aluminium of the cranckase casting, with no separate steel or iron cylinder liner. The Deezil is not a Slag engine, it is just a crap engine, no doubt about that.
These are what are termed SLAG engines from back in the day..fits,materials,machining etc where all questionable..but occasionally a few did run..more a collectors novelty engine than a runner for flying..Only ever seen one running/flying a vintage model and that belonged to a machinist who completely replaced all the internals.
I had a couple of McCoy red head diesels, Teflon contra-piston melted, never ran well enough to fly with them. Druids at the field would run diesels on stands to prove they would run, few actually flew with them. Europeans seemed to have success with the smelly things.
Yes you are right; they are awful smelly things. In all my years of flying I think I only successfully flew one model with diesel, a 2.49 cc PAW and after each flight the side of the model was black with oil. It stank so badly that I had to store it in the chicken house, wrapped in a feed bag.
Ellos no son buenos. A veces se puede encontrar en Ebay. Valic000 planea reacondicionar un lote con cigüeñales y bielas propper en algún momento. Por favor, disculpe mi traducción!
It's why the fuel used is just a 70/30 mix of bar and chain oil, ether. Not a normal fuel mix. All that oil is making up for so many deficiencies in the engine.
@@tonywright8294 But a finger will be stopped by extra hard compression and won't bend a rod when too much fuel got on top of the piston, that starter will just break something, But feel free to do as you please. Also, if a model engine is bushed,(No Bal Bearing), it should be hand started, the push holding the starter against the prop can grind away at the prop drive or I have seen the crank pushed into the rear cover grinding a nice groove in the rear cover, filling the case with aluminum particles that run through the engine. Go below and read Raymond Ashby's comment from 4 years ago, explains it better than I did.
@@tonywright8294 P.S., I don't make comments just to hear myself talk, it from 50 years in the hobby and seeing what others have destroyed and how they did it, If I can save others from breaking their favorite engine, that's what it's all about.
I’ve spent over 50 years making and running ic engines it’s just down to common sense . You would have to be a complete fool to keep trying to start an engine if it was flooded! I have to use an electric starter because of arthritis in my hands .But you do have a good point regarding total idiots. Keep flicking Tony.
This brings back a lot of memories. My first engine was the ED bee and this one looks like the ED competition special which was 2cc I believe. Nice work.
+Carmel Pule' I also have the ED Bee, It is a very reliable runner and never fails to start.
Check out my engine blog if you are interested in old diesels.and search for your favorites.
antiquemodelenginesrunning.blogspot.ca/
The DEEZIL doesn't need a muffler: for the most part they are extremely quiet, since they almost never run.
Good running engine, nice job, sounds very nice, very clean idle, and good rpm too. Thanks.
You must be kidding me. If you know anything about these DEEZIL's you have to know what I am dealing with just to get this thing to fire.
@@DavidCrocker-Davideo I was taking into consideration the problems it had, just getting it running. I know nothing of that particular brand, just a few here and there in my life, enough to enjoy a really good running, powerful throaty one, and fooled with enough to know they can be finicky any time. I used to build vehicle engines regularly, and have fooled around a bit with model plane engines, but am old enough to afford the ones I could never even consider as a kid, or as a father. I've got a "29" off ebay with no points, dirty no longer stuck, never run one of them before, but have seen and heard a number running very well on here. I worked on 897 inch diesels, in 200 KW generators for three years, real works, could barely keep them running week to week, because they were stand-by, never loaded or used, and not properly run up and expected to start when power went out.
Great video documentation about the Deezil story!! you got it to the point! I had build for my engine a new stronger shaft,and a new piston,and than its a nice longstroke engine....but you have to do it....if you have the machine and skills..
I love the smal diesels!...have collect somthing about 60+ ...great stuff!
Regards Peter,Netherlands
@lexander5 You are absolutely correct the engine just long enough to run out the prime:just a few seconds, but who wants to watch a 6 second video so I looped the segment several times to make it appear like a longer run.
Just increasing the compression high enough for ignition will put too much stress on the crank web and cause bending failure.
As a kid we had a small Frog diesel in an RC boat, after many hours of running it seemed to lose compression after some home brew fuel, think it was detergent oil, engine was good as new after cleaning and proper castor based oil in the fuel
So it was bent to begin with and got worse. Nice shot of the parts. Thanks ever so much, PV Bangkok
When you pour sooooo much fuel thru the exhaust port and fill the crankcase, you cause a 'hydraulic lock'. When you force past the hydraulic lockout, that's when the crank bends........??
Of course! You are perfectly correct. Even this engine can be modified to run very well if, you are an machinist. Take a look at the video response that shows a modified engine running.
just running the same sequence sveral times xD
10 times..✌️😅
Why the video is repeated????
True, but this one is called a DEEZIL: perhaps the manufacturer didn't know how to spell "diesel" but the called it the DEEZIL and embossed its name on the front of the crankcase. There were millions of these manufactured back in the old days.
" ITS ALIVE,ITS ALIVE,QUICK IGOR TURN ON THE ELECTRIC THINGAMAJIG'"
Sometimes that is the only way to get any life from these old engines. It is perfectly safe when you know what you're doing.
When I first built model aircraft this engine was the only option there was for those who didn't have a bundle of money to drop on an engine.
Who ever said that the Deezil is a "Slag" engine is talking through his fundamental orifice. The term Slag is used for vintage engines (not modern) where the piston runs directly in the aluminium of the cranckase casting, with no separate steel or iron cylinder liner. The Deezil is not a Slag engine, it is just a crap engine, no doubt about that.
hello what fuel you used?
+geoffrey feuerstein I used 70% heavy weight chain saw oil mixed with 30% ether.
very convincing loop
except the oil coming out of the exhaust. lol
Hahaha
These are what are termed SLAG engines from back in the day..fits,materials,machining etc where all questionable..but occasionally a few did run..more a collectors novelty engine than a runner for flying..Only ever seen one running/flying a vintage model and that belonged to a machinist who completely replaced all the internals.
All what you say is very true..... but this is all we could afford back in the early post WWII days. It's a wonder any of us stayed with the hobby.
Quiero uno de esos
Donde puedo comprarlo ?
He regalado todos los motores que tenía. Ver valic000.
I had a couple of McCoy red head diesels, Teflon contra-piston melted, never ran well enough to fly with them. Druids at the field would run diesels on stands to prove they would run, few actually flew with them. Europeans seemed to have success with the smelly things.
Yes you are right; they are awful smelly things. In all my years of flying I think I only successfully flew one model with diesel, a 2.49 cc PAW and after each flight the side of the model was black with oil. It stank so badly that I had to store it in the chicken house, wrapped in a feed bag.
Is this some sort of engine that was sold as a lottery? The design looks as if it could not last even under good circumstance.
Donde puedo comprar uno de esos ?
#HaiLH
Ellos no son buenos. A veces se puede encontrar en Ebay. Valic000 planea reacondicionar un lote con cigüeñales y bielas propper en algún momento. Por favor, disculpe mi traducción!
nice running loop edit of the engine..... the oil is dripping out and then the loop restarts.
make it run for real and then film it
I don't think you should use an electric starter on a diesel 🤔
This diesel is so bad that the only way to get it to pop is to use an electric starter.
omg no muffler? wtf
You must have bent the shaft by hand, doubt you got it to actually run and crash. These had to be re-machined to become runners. LOL
It's why the fuel used is just a 70/30 mix of bar and chain oil, ether. Not a normal fuel mix. All that oil is making up for so many deficiencies in the engine.
блин люди умоляю покажите как собрать двигатель внутреннего згорания
you repeat a scen for ten times
+Costeiu Mihai Thanks! If you had one of these engines you would realize it was the only way to make a video of it running
+David Crocker The one I sold I ran with 1.5% octyl nitrate and preheated the cylinder and head. Mine ran fine.
well maybe its the brand of the engine not the type.....
are you sure :P
Who ever starts a model diesel engine with an electric starter should be have all his engines taken away!!!!
Maybe so but at least they keep their fingers in one piece!
these engines almost never ran new that was probely the only way to get it running
Jo Michiels i start my mini diesel generator electric (cox 049 powered)
в Украине где можно купить и сколько стоит???
ok well its a diesel engine not DEEZIL
Never use an electric starter on a diesel.
Old wife’s tail, the engine doesn’t know if a finger is flicking it or an electric motor is turning does it ?
@@tonywright8294 But a finger will be stopped by extra hard compression and won't bend a rod when too much fuel got on top of the piston, that starter will just break something, But feel free to do as you please. Also, if a model engine is bushed,(No Bal Bearing), it should be hand started, the push holding the starter against the prop can grind away at the prop drive or I have seen the crank pushed into the rear cover grinding a nice groove in the rear cover, filling the case with aluminum particles that run through the engine. Go below and read Raymond Ashby's comment from 4 years ago, explains it better than I did.
@@tonywright8294 P.S., I don't make comments just to hear myself talk, it from 50 years in the hobby and seeing what others have destroyed and how they did it, If I can save others from breaking their favorite engine, that's what it's all about.
I’ve spent over 50 years making and running ic engines it’s just down to common sense . You would have to be a complete fool to keep trying to start an engine if it was flooded! I have to use an electric starter because of arthritis in my hands .But you do have a good point regarding total idiots. Keep flicking Tony.