The way you diagnose the problems and make the repairs work is an inspiration. I know you don't call your videos instructional ,however I've successfully restored quite a few HO scale locomotives just from what I picked up by watching you work on them. Great job as usual. 👍
Thanks. Most of my videos aren't intended as instructions but I do try to share advice along the way. Some of which I've learned on my own or effective things others have suggested.
Harrison MacGyver, a secret agent armed with remarkable scientific resourcefulness to solve any problem in the model train field using any materials at hand. From Texas
MacGyver is a colloquialism for a layman who performs shade tree mechanics with rudimentary tools and makes corny narratives like a broken record. Harrison *Cheeseball* is equally as fitting....
Congratulations on getting that unique drive running. I’ve toyed with the idea of having some British rolling stock on the layout because some of it’s very cool but wonder how I’d fit it in
A little Triang history about lights in their locomotives. Triang never fitted lights to their British diesels. This one was usually the product number R.357 in the range. The opposite for the Triang Transcontinental range with all of the Diesels and one Electric locomotive having lights fitted at one or both ends, These were models designed for extra appeal to the Canadian, Australian, New Zealand, South African and US markets mainly. Most of these were released by the end of the fifties. Model numbers I remember having lights were R.55, R.155, R.159 and R.257. There was one exception, the freelance model for the British market with lights, the R.253 Dock Shunter and a bufferless Transcontinental version. The Triang R.352 Budd diesel railcar also had a more elaborate lighting system. I think it had internal lights at one stage as well. Even one Canadian outline Pacific steam locomotive had a working front headlight. That being mostly sold as the R.54. Oscar Paisley is the best source of informative vids on these R number Triang locomotives I have come across. For a long time the R.159 Australian outline approximating a Victorian Railways B class sold very well in both Australia and the UK with tooling needed in both countries to meet the demand. As well as its streamlined shape and colour scheme a part of its appeal was a headlight and illuminated cab at each end. This was the last of the Transcontinental range to remain in the UK catalogue until about 1969 and made it to the cover of the 1959 catalogue. Wiring from the motor bogie of this Triang class 31 would be more useful to get extra pickup from the rear metal trailing bogie wheels if fitted.
Another amazing repair. I got one of these in BR Green and the exact brick wagon and box car. Mine is a slightly later model with smaller flanges and where the dummy bogie also picks up power making it actually one of the best runners over switches for me. From my knowledge the original didn’t have lights but of course lights are always good. It makes it a lot more pleasing to look at when it’s running. I haven’t serviced mine since I bought it last year and it hasn’t been looked after for around 60 years so yeah, thanks to your video I got a guide now on how to do it myself. Thanks again. These locos are extremely robust and last for ages. I also got a Class 37 which is the same thing with a different body. Might be time to take ‚em out for a spin. Generally these Tri-ang/ Hornby locos are extremely easy to repair and service I did almost 20 of them now and all are back working with some of them rescued from the siding from non working conditions. Proof that a little clean goes a long way. PS: I’m so glad I didn’t remove the motor mounting but only the little plate which holds it otherwise I think I wouldn’t run today😅
Excellent rebuild. That motor bogie is from a newer model. Newer versions of this loco had pick ups on the trailing bogie, thats where the wires would have gone too. Check out my Trash to Track episode 2, i do a 37 with the same drive as this.
Excellent video both in repairing this retro oddity and in showing her running again in various trackside takes. I like that your videos are minus the sound effects so many people in the hobby are enthralled with. As a vintage locomotive enthusiast, I want to hear the mechanism, not some pre-recorded sound effects. Thank you and keep up the good work my friend. Sincerely, William, a retired railroad locomotive operator and conductor. :-)
I don't mind the sound effects when they come from the locomotive itself. What irritates the hell out of me is when they dub real train sounds over a model video. I always mute that and just watch the video.
That is one odd-looking drivetrain. That's a good idea macgyvering the screw to hold onto the roof. Good job getting it running. I love the joke about unboxing the glassware set lol
Hi the spare wires are for pickups on the other bogie. But I see that it does not have metal wheels .This version of the class 31 seems to have an early version rear bogie and a late power bogie . Triang never fitted lights to their diesels .
Correction : Triang never fitted lights to their British diesels. The opposite for the Triang Transcontinental range with all of the Diesels and one Electric locomotive having lights fitted at one or both ends, These were models designed for extra appeal to the Canadian, Australian, New Zealand, South African and US markets mainly. Most of these were released by the end of the fifties. Model numbers I remember having lights were R.55, R.155, R.159 and R.257. There was one exception, the freelance model for the British market with lights, the R.253 Dock Shunter and a bufferless Transcontinental version. The Triang R.352 Budd diesel railcar also had a more elaborate lighting system. I think it had internal lights at one stage as well. Even one Canadian outline Pacific steam locomotive had a working front headlight. That being mostly sold as the R.54. For a long time the R.159 Australian outline approximating a Victorian Railways B class sold very well in both Australia and the UK with tooling needed in both countries to meet the demand. As well as its streamlined shape and colour scheme a part of its appeal was a headlight and illuminated cab at each end. This was the last of the Transcontinental range to remain in the UK catalogue until about 1969 and made it to the cover of the 1959 catalogue.
Harrison, Mate those loose wires on the motor bogie would go onto the dummy bogie in order to give better electric pickup so that it doesn’t stutter on points
Hi Harrison good job I have some old tri ang hornby models including one like that as long as you give them a clean up regularly they will run along happily 👍
Good job, that Class 31 looked far gone! Interesting stock, Triang did several US style cars back in the 60's & 70's including that fine TR (Triang Railways 😂 ) box car. That lig carrier is a cool find, it was part of a set that had a gadget to put on the track to unload the logs. They also did a Giraffe Car and an exploding van as other quirky cars
Its not because its an OO gauge loco as why the flanges are course its more just how Tri-ang stuff was designed, as it would perform the same on modern OO gauge track. Also the boxcar is actually part of Tri-angs transcontinental range so based on an American design. So while it is a British design it wouldn't be used by the class 31.
@@SouRwy4501Productions The wheel configuration of a Class 31 is (A1A)(A1A), so it is somewhat prototypical to have no traction on the middle wheelset. But this casted caricature???
Hi, the wires from the power bogie go to contacts on the rear bogie ,but you have the plastic wheels on yours prior to 1972 . This loco never had lights. Well done for getting it going possibly triang hornbys most problematic motor .
I'm from the UK, these 1960s Tri-ang class 31s are generally built like bricks and very simple in design. The motor bogie is the only power pickup for the locomotive some of the later Hornby stuff had pickups on the nonpowered bogie with wires connecting the two. These models never had lights so I'm not sure what the wires were for possibly a temporary thing to fault find the motor. There should be a long screw and metal tube that would fit round the screw post in the roof and hold the model together. You may find the bits amongst the rest of the job lot you bought. Also the 2 magnets that fit on the bogie were for magnaheasion on steel track. Great to see you got it working.
That knob on the top was meant to switch it to overhead wire power if this was fitted to an electric locomotive like the class 77/EM2 "Electra" I would suspect those wires went to the rear bogie, but yours has all plastic wheels on it. I never found any evidence that this model had a light in it, which is the case for a lot of British model trains
I would MacGuiver 2 leads to the front trucks and get them sending power to the motor as well just to even out the power track changes causing a slight hiccup. Really cool to see this Engine working!
Excellent good old BR Class 31. Runs really well and actually sounds like one 😂. If you do get more Peco points be sure to choose code 100 « universal » they’re designed to cope with the older deeper flanged Triang wheels. The fine Peco points won’t and you’ll get derailments. You can also choose between « insulfrog » or « electrofrog » the latter have live frogs as the name suggests and need to be wired into the layout accordingly.
I have one of those locomotives and those 2 wires are for extra pickups that some later versions had in the nonpowered bogie witch that one don't seem to have so might possibly a replacement motor
12:45 LIMA was an Italian model making company, existing from 1946 to 2004, when then company went into administration followed by Hornby bought the assets of the company. Hornby bought a good few European modelling companies in the mid noughties.
hah, welcome to the British modeller's world. those motors are notorious for being temperamental and date back to the early 60's though your version is mid-70's. those wires go to the other bogie but it looks like its been stripped of contacts. They did originally Riu with just the 4 contacts on the power bogie so shouldn't be too much of a problem
Hi it’s me again the two wires that were fixed to the motor were possibly an attempt to make it all wheel pickups I have done this and put in led lights in the head lights tried to dcc but blew decoder the insulator on the bruh was rotten fixed with shrinktube
Hi there, Im one of your subscriber from UK. I wonder if you can help me on this. I recently bought my first Rivarossi (7155 steam). I serviced it but it does not run as fast as my other hornby locos. Since this is my first Rvarossi, im not sure whether thats a normal speed for them as they are really chunky or there is a weak motor. Motor does get hot i realized. Can I buy a new magnet for this? Or a new motor may be? Are the hornby ring field motors have same size magnet? You have both hornby and Rivarossi in your stock so i assume you can be a help. I will appreciate your answer. Thanks
its not the 00 gauge that is the problem as newer stock has finer flanges. older stock, even HO stuff have "Pizza cutter" flanges and older track was much coarser.
hey SMT i saw in one of your vids that you had a bigboy coupler that apears to be a piko can you maybe show it so i can have a look i need one of those but i cant seem to get one to fit
Very awesome video Harrison it always feels I got the magic touch to make everything work better than before for your locomotives and I’m wondering if you got my email?
Last I remember he was saying that it was all code 100 track. He has some switches that were either used and probably Atlas branded or maybe another brand cuz sometimes they weren't exactly perfect. I have a Fleischmann train set from 1960s that the locomotive has the flanges that hit the railroad ties and I use only code 100 track myself.
Hello my name is Zeke and I love your videos sent because of your videos of actually been trying to make a layout myself but it's way too hard for me and although how so I was wondering if you could maybe make a train layout for me I'll pay for it and everything it's just I really wanted to try to make a train layout and all the ones on eBay and stuff are really expensive please reply if you can
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 76 | คู่เอก "ผึ้งหลวง vs สมิงดำ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9SBshmGQOIM/mqdefault.jpg)
![ว้าว!ลุงบีมแบกทองมารับขวัญหลานกันยกบ้าน [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.49 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Osihq1OAs-4/mqdefault.jpg)
Without even watching, Harrison, of course you'll get it running. Immediately disregards the warning on the motor housing. 😂
Thanks for sharing. 👍🐾👍
The way you diagnose the problems and make the repairs work is an inspiration. I know you don't call your videos instructional ,however I've successfully restored quite a few HO scale locomotives just from what I picked up by watching you work on them. Great job as usual. 👍
Thanks. Most of my videos aren't intended as instructions but I do try to share advice along the way. Some of which I've learned on my own or effective things others have suggested.
Harrison MacGyver, a secret agent armed with remarkable scientific resourcefulness to solve any problem in the model train field using any materials at hand. From Texas
А злщ
То же он
MacGyver is a colloquialism for a layman who performs shade tree mechanics with rudimentary tools and makes corny narratives like a broken record. Harrison *Cheeseball* is equally as fitting....
Congratulations on getting that unique drive running. I’ve toyed with the idea of having some British rolling stock on the layout because some of it’s very cool but wonder how I’d fit it in
The flanges on the Triang rolling stock are suited for Triang series 4 track. This track has higher profile than code 100.
Great problem solving here. Well done again. No task too difficult. I travelled many miles with Class 31s doing the work all over Britain long ago…
All right! Dr.Trainkenstein does it again. Now, If you could figure out a way to replace the wheels with some with smaller flanges.
Thanks Harrison another great video. It always enjoyable to see an old locomotive moving around the track. Have an enjoyable day!
Always nice to work on something different. Nice job
Whoa, Harrison. First time you've ever touched a British piece of stock. As usual, fantastic job!
I've worked on a few but this particular drive was new to me.
@@SMTMainline Either way, you did an amazing job!
Now I kind of want to see you unbox a glass set! I feel like it would make something that sounds boring kind of fun! Great video as always!
Great job again
A little Triang history about lights in their locomotives.
Triang never fitted lights to their British diesels. This one was usually the product number R.357 in the range.
The opposite for the Triang Transcontinental range with all of the Diesels and one Electric locomotive having lights fitted at one or both ends,
These were models designed for extra appeal to the Canadian, Australian, New Zealand, South African and US markets mainly.
Most of these were released by the end of the fifties. Model numbers I remember having lights were R.55, R.155, R.159 and R.257.
There was one exception, the freelance model for the British market with lights, the R.253 Dock Shunter and a bufferless Transcontinental version.
The Triang R.352 Budd diesel railcar also had a more elaborate lighting system. I think it had internal lights at one stage as well.
Even one Canadian outline Pacific steam locomotive had a working front headlight. That being mostly sold as the R.54.
Oscar Paisley is the best source of informative vids on these R number Triang locomotives I have come across.
For a long time the R.159 Australian outline approximating a Victorian Railways B class sold very well in both Australia and the UK with tooling needed in both countries to meet the demand. As well as its streamlined shape and colour scheme a part of its appeal was a headlight and illuminated cab at each end.
This was the last of the Transcontinental range to remain in the UK catalogue until about 1969 and made it to the cover of the 1959 catalogue.
Wiring from the motor bogie of this Triang class 31 would be more useful to get extra pickup from the rear metal trailing bogie wheels if fitted.
Another amazing repair. I got one of these in BR Green and the exact brick wagon and box car. Mine is a slightly later model with smaller flanges and where the dummy bogie also picks up power making it actually one of the best runners over switches for me. From my knowledge the original didn’t have lights but of course lights are always good. It makes it a lot more pleasing to look at when it’s running. I haven’t serviced mine since I bought it last year and it hasn’t been looked after for around 60 years so yeah, thanks to your video I got a guide now on how to do it myself. Thanks again. These locos are extremely robust and last for ages. I also got a Class 37 which is the same thing with a different body. Might be time to take ‚em out for a spin. Generally these Tri-ang/ Hornby locos are extremely easy to repair and service I did almost 20 of them now and all are back working with some of them rescued from the siding from non working conditions. Proof that a little clean goes a long way.
PS: I’m so glad I didn’t remove the motor mounting but only the little plate which holds it otherwise I think I wouldn’t run today😅
Serenity, we have a runner! Cheers from eastern TN
Excellent rebuild. That motor bogie is from a newer model. Newer versions of this loco had pick ups on the trailing bogie, thats where the wires would have gone too. Check out my Trash to Track episode 2, i do a 37 with the same drive as this.
Fancy seeing you here Dan 😂. All we need now are OOBill, Oscar Paisley, Mr Snooze and Dusty Shelf Collectibles and everyone will be here on SMT 😂😂😂
Excellent video both in repairing this retro oddity and in showing her running again in various trackside takes. I like that your videos are minus the sound effects so many people in the hobby are enthralled with. As a vintage locomotive enthusiast, I want to hear the mechanism, not some pre-recorded sound effects. Thank you and keep up the good work my friend. Sincerely, William, a retired railroad locomotive operator and conductor. :-)
I don't mind the sound effects when they come from the locomotive itself. What irritates the hell out of me is when they dub real train sounds over a model video. I always mute that and just watch the video.
So basically, someone didn't read the big sticker that said "Do Not Remove This Screw", lol. Great repair and video.
Yep. They defied the instructions and probably still wondered why their locomotive didn't work after lol
Love the European trains Harrison
Looks cool
That is one odd-looking drivetrain. That's a good idea macgyvering the screw to hold onto the roof. Good job getting it running. I love the joke about unboxing the glassware set lol
That is definitely a really cool locomotive. I need to find something like that for my collection.
Hi the spare wires are for pickups on the other bogie. But I see that it does not have metal wheels .This version of the class 31 seems to have an early version rear bogie and a late power bogie . Triang never fitted lights to their diesels .
Well now I'm even more mystified. Maybe someone tried to add a light or something.
Correction : Triang never fitted lights to their British diesels.
The opposite for the Triang Transcontinental range with all of the Diesels and one Electric locomotive having lights fitted at one or both ends,
These were models designed for extra appeal to the Canadian, Australian, New Zealand, South African and US markets mainly.
Most of these were released by the end of the fifties. Model numbers I remember having lights were R.55, R.155, R.159 and R.257.
There was one exception, the freelance model for the British market with lights, the R.253 Dock Shunter and a bufferless Transcontinental version.
The Triang R.352 Budd diesel railcar also had a more elaborate lighting system. I think it had internal lights at one stage as well.
Even one Canadian outline Pacific steam locomotive had a working front headlight. That being mostly sold as the R.54.
For a long time the R.159 Australian outline approximating a Victorian Railways B class sold very well in both Australia and the UK with tooling needed in both countries to meet the demand. As well as its streamlined shape and colour scheme a part of its appeal was a headlight and illuminated cab at each end.
This was the last of the Transcontinental range to remain in the UK catalogue until about 1969 and made it to the cover of the 1959 catalogue.
Harrison, Mate those loose wires on the motor bogie would go onto the dummy bogie in order to give better electric pickup so that it doesn’t stutter on points
Hi Harrison good job I have some old tri ang hornby models including one like that as long as you give them a clean up regularly they will run along happily 👍
“You have to do some funny stuff to get the motor to crank”. If motors worked on poop jokes, I would have that running like a champ.
hey smt you got me back into the hobby the first video of yours ive seen was buying shady model trains on ebay keep up the great work harrison
Good job, that Class 31 looked far gone! Interesting stock, Triang did several US style cars back in the 60's & 70's including that fine TR (Triang Railways 😂 ) box car. That lig carrier is a cool find, it was part of a set that had a gadget to put on the track to unload the logs. They also did a Giraffe Car and an exploding van as other quirky cars
👍👍Amazing! Runs like a top, nice job. Great video 🚂🚂
I was hoping for a glassware unboxing. Disappointed. Good fix though. Always great to watch you “MacGyver” trains back together.
Very nice restoration on this british rail cl-31 locomotive from hornby.
Great job saving vintage engine and rolling stock most people would have thrown away.
I sadly lost all of my locos to the flooding that's has been happening in Vermont
Do not give up on modeling get some more trains and continue modeling
To sadly make it worse that some of them were my great grandfather trains (he passed away 2 years ago)
I'm really sorry to hear about that. Are they gone as in buried or just submerged? Maybe they're not beyond the point of repair
Submerged
You may want to disassemble them and set them where they can dry out. Use WD40 on the metal parts.
If you push the hook on the British Style coupler into the knuckle of a horn hook coupler, you can run it with American rolling stock.
Its not because its an OO gauge loco as why the flanges are course its more just how Tri-ang stuff was designed, as it would perform the same on modern OO gauge track. Also the boxcar is actually part of Tri-angs transcontinental range so based on an American design. So while it is a British design it wouldn't be used by the class 31.
Hi Harrison 😊
Of course you get it running 👍🏻
I've never seen a locomotive with a fake wheelset before 🧐 Very British indeed 🇬🇧
It works good on curves, but it’s terrible for traction.
@@SouRwy4501Productions
The wheel configuration of a Class 31 is (A1A)(A1A), so it is somewhat prototypical to have no traction on the middle wheelset.
But this casted caricature???
looks great Harrison with aloha
You are so great at doing the repairs and getting something going right MacGyver‘s got nothing on you
Hi, the wires from the power bogie go to contacts on the rear bogie ,but you have the plastic wheels on yours prior to 1972 . This loco never had lights. Well done for getting it going possibly triang hornbys most problematic motor .
I'm from the UK, these 1960s Tri-ang class 31s are generally built like bricks and very simple in design. The motor bogie is the only power pickup for the locomotive some of the later Hornby stuff had pickups on the nonpowered bogie with wires connecting the two. These models never had lights so I'm not sure what the wires were for possibly a temporary thing to fault find the motor. There should be a long screw and metal tube that would fit round the screw post in the roof and hold the model together. You may find the bits amongst the rest of the job lot you bought. Also the 2 magnets that fit on the bogie were for magnaheasion on steel track. Great to see you got it working.
the bulb should go in the top of the roof at the front to light up the head code box
That knob on the top was meant to switch it to overhead wire power if this was fitted to an electric locomotive like the class 77/EM2 "Electra"
I would suspect those wires went to the rear bogie, but yours has all plastic wheels on it. I never found any evidence that this model had a light in it, which is the case for a lot of British model trains
nope lmao not in the slightest but good guess. The class 31(class30) never ran off of Overhead cables was completely Diesel electric design
I like the sound of that locomotive
Hi Harrison, the loose wire was for picking up power from the non powered bogie. Enjoyed the video, keep up the good work 👍
Knew you would get this engine running again Harrison.
You always get them running again.and back to doing what they were made for.
I would MacGuiver 2 leads to the front trucks and get them sending power to the motor as well just to even out the power track changes causing a slight hiccup. Really cool to see this Engine working!
Now I know to check in every box to make sure there are no trains.😂😂
The British Rail equipment is quite interesting. You can find a lot of historical information on them on TH-cam..
Double Serenity👍👍👍👍!!!
Saludos hermosa locomotora
Greetings from Michigan
Excellent good old BR Class 31. Runs really well and actually sounds like one 😂.
If you do get more Peco points be sure to choose code 100 « universal » they’re designed to cope with the older deeper flanged Triang wheels. The fine Peco points won’t and you’ll get derailments. You can also choose between « insulfrog » or « electrofrog » the latter have live frogs as the name suggests and need to be wired into the layout accordingly.
its looking good my man i have an old deltic loco somewhere ile dig it out and send it to you mate
👍👌Great job.
hello smt mainline it's randy and i like yours video is cool thanks smt mainline friends randy
Great video 😊
Nice ❤️ 👌 👍 well done
How’s your day
Harrison great work as always. Where did you get your screw driver from?
Canadian tire but you can find them on Amazon.
Hi I’m in UK and I have got one of these locos class 31 No lights on original have put I led’s first brought out in 1960 ‘s under triang
I have one of those locomotives and those 2 wires are for extra pickups that some later versions had in the nonpowered bogie witch that one don't seem to have so might possibly a replacement motor
no, that model didnt have any lighting in it. I wonder if some previous owner has tried to provide pickup frpm the unpowered bogie.
Awesome!
12:45 LIMA was an Italian model making company, existing from 1946 to 2004, when then company went into administration followed by Hornby bought the assets of the company. Hornby bought a good few European modelling companies in the mid noughties.
Looks like Class 31 Diesel Engine came to America!
Have you ever received a loco that you COULDNT fix?
It happens. In most cases locomotives are fixable but if you can't find the parts it's easy to get stuck.
I was thinking the same thing!
hah, welcome to the British modeller's world. those motors are notorious for being temperamental and date back to the early 60's though your version is mid-70's. those wires go to the other bogie but it looks like its been stripped of contacts. They did originally Riu with just the 4 contacts on the power bogie so shouldn't be too much of a problem
& I Wonder What Dog Does She Own?
I did my new layout with Code 83 track, only to find I can't run my pizza cutter wheeled Lima and AHM switchers 😢. Have to build another layout 😊.
Stm main line, do you have a Chicago and Northwestern because my best engine is Chicago and Northwest diesel engine
Screw with the washers. A fastener and ballast😋👨🔧🚂🇨🇦
Hi it’s me again the two wires that were fixed to the motor were possibly an attempt to make it all wheel pickups I have done this and put in led lights in the head lights tried to dcc but blew decoder the insulator on the bruh was rotten fixed with shrinktube
Those 2 wires go to back bogie as they are for your rear pick ups
I have a railfan layout that I basically send trains on with the camera at three crossings.
My fellow history in the dark viewers know how British Rail deasils go motor wise
This is a Triang Class 31 model
Hi there, Im one of your subscriber from UK. I wonder if you can help me on this. I recently bought my first Rivarossi (7155 steam). I serviced it but it does not run as fast as my other hornby locos. Since this is my first Rvarossi, im not sure whether thats a normal speed for them as they are really chunky or there is a weak motor. Motor does get hot i realized. Can I buy a new magnet for this? Or a new motor may be? Are the hornby ring field motors have same size magnet? You have both hornby and Rivarossi in your stock so i assume you can be a help.
I will appreciate your answer. Thanks
Good smt
13:15 i have the full locomotive + tender for that loco. of you want some pictures id be happy to share
Does it feel a bit weird to be running a british loco on your layout?
It's different.
its not the 00 gauge that is the problem as newer stock has finer flanges. older stock, even HO stuff have "Pizza cutter" flanges and older track was much coarser.
Waving my Union flag. Regards from UK.
Can you video you fixing the mehano tender and joining the two on the rails? please and thank you.
hey SMT i saw in one of your vids that you had a bigboy coupler that apears to be a piko can you maybe show it so i can have a look i need one of those but i cant seem to get one to fit
What are those sticks called that you use to clean the gaps on the commutator?
I think they are plastic toothpicks.
You can shave down a regular tooth pick to do the same thing.
@@SMTMainline oh lol, thought it might have been some special tool.
@@modelrailfan37 Nope. Just don't use anything metal on it because you don't want to scratch those copper plates.
Could you please do a review on the life like union pacific one with the caboose😊
Can you restore your tyco durango locomotives
Why is my bachmann dcc loco being slow and louder on dc
Possibly you have a PWM (pulse-width modulation) DC controller that does not work well with the motor on on your loco ?
@@maltnz I have a bachmann controller so idk
Very awesome video Harrison it always feels I got the magic touch to make everything work better than before for your locomotives and I’m wondering if you got my email?
Great video. Are your switches code 100 or code 83? I have two OO Pacifics that do fine on code 100 switches but derail every time on code 83.
Last I remember he was saying that it was all code 100 track. He has some switches that were either used and probably Atlas branded or maybe another brand cuz sometimes they weren't exactly perfect. I have a Fleischmann train set from 1960s that the locomotive has the flanges that hit the railroad ties and I use only code 100 track myself.
All code 100
do u think you could mabye fix my loco it wont run and it just makes clicking sound when has power
6 hours till this is 24 hours or 1 day old
What is the noisiest trains engines do you have?
Please make another live stream please because I missed your other one
I would buy that from you…
Hi smt
Can you get athern John Deere train set
& If Charley's Dad Gets a New Job! So Jetta Could take over!
Hello my name is Zeke and I love your videos sent because of your videos of actually been trying to make a layout myself but it's way too hard for me and although how so I was wondering if you could maybe make a train layout for me I'll pay for it and everything it's just I really wanted to try to make a train layout and all the ones on eBay and stuff are really expensive please reply if you can
Can you restore your John Deere locomotive