what do you think about the loomis method in comparison with the block in? When would you recommend using each one of these? by the way, thanks for the tutorial, helped me a lot!
Loomis is good for understanding the basic formula and creating faces and people from imagination or as a concept... at least for me. Block ins allow for a more direct way to draw what you see and make it ideal for literal translation like a portrait.
The short answer is that it is always good to consider what you are drawing as a 3-dimensional object to help convey roundness and depths. The longer answer depends on if you are a beginner or intermediate. A beginner who draws every day will eventually benefit from learning to measure with the sight-size method and a good understanding of perspective. An intermediate who has drawn many faces and wants even more accuracy will want to start learning about contours, muscles and features. A master will have studied form and figure, light and values, color temperatures, accurate color mixing, underlying skeleton and muscle features, and many life studies to understand the nuances that were probably almost invisible to the beginner.
If i am gonna draw a portrait but the size is different like, the picture is smaller but the portrait is bigger so, how would I measure my proportions?
I use a system called comparative measuring. If the distance between two points of my reference are the same, then I can make the same assumption using longer lines on my drawing. In the beginning, there is just guessing, and then you measure. You have to measure a lot - a ton - actually, but it works. Another method is using a grid of squares on clear plastic for the reference and then a larger grid of squares on the drawing itself. So the squares are twice as big and make a drawing twice as big. This is good and easier than the comparative measuring. There are other ways, but these two are what I use most and teach. Grids are great for mastercopies. I hope this helps!
I like to have a more structural head for like uh, the way i draw the head is i use a block in, i measure, guidelines for every feature of the face and the hair but the problem is the size of the actual head and the placement usually the hair makes the problem since, i cant find the top of the head
I'm just starting out learning to draw. I found this helpful. Thanks for sharing!
I'm happy this helped! Thanks for watching.
what do you think about the loomis method in comparison with the block in? When would you recommend using each one of these? by the way, thanks for the tutorial, helped me a lot!
Loomis is good for understanding the basic formula and creating faces and people from imagination or as a concept... at least for me. Block ins allow for a more direct way to draw what you see and make it ideal for literal translation like a portrait.
Thanks for video,
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
should i learn anatomy for drawing portrait
The short answer is that it is always good to consider what you are drawing as a 3-dimensional object to help convey roundness and depths. The longer answer depends on if you are a beginner or intermediate. A beginner who draws every day will eventually benefit from learning to measure with the sight-size method and a good understanding of perspective. An intermediate who has drawn many faces and wants even more accuracy will want to start learning about contours, muscles and features. A master will have studied form and figure, light and values, color temperatures, accurate color mixing, underlying skeleton and muscle features, and many life studies to understand the nuances that were probably almost invisible to the beginner.
If i am gonna draw a portrait but the size is different like, the picture is smaller but the portrait is bigger so, how would I measure my proportions?
I use a system called comparative measuring. If the distance between two points of my reference are the same, then I can make the same assumption using longer lines on my drawing. In the beginning, there is just guessing, and then you measure. You have to measure a lot - a ton - actually, but it works.
Another method is using a grid of squares on clear plastic for the reference and then a larger grid of squares on the drawing itself. So the squares are twice as big and make a drawing twice as big. This is good and easier than the comparative measuring.
There are other ways, but these two are what I use most and teach. Grids are great for mastercopies.
I hope this helps!
@@BayAreaArtSchool i tried using grids before but I’m not sure it will work a-lot for me i just get a hard time drawing the grid itself
I like to have a more structural head for like uh, the way i draw the head is i use a block in, i measure, guidelines for every feature of the face and the hair but the problem is the size of the actual head and the placement usually the hair makes the problem since, i cant find the top of the head