You can place a wedge between the derailleur and the hanger (a piece of rubber from the air chamber, for example). This removes the slack that exists in this region and thus improves the accuracy of gear changes.
I believe the problem is the derailer hanger is bent. The longer pulley arm is exerting enough lever force to bend the hanger toward the wheel slightly over time. This causes chain to rub the big cogs first. Reducing cable tension fixes the big cog rub but causes the over shift on the smaller cog. It just gets worse (keeps bending) to where if you can tune the high gears or the low gears not both. Straighten the hanger fixes the problem temporarily. I’m trying to source a stiffer hanger as I write this.
There is a play in the shaft/bolt holding rear derailer into hanger. B-tention screw is rotating derailler around this shaft/bolt. You can feel and see backlash there, when trying to woble entire derailler by hand in the direction parallel to the rear hub axle. Sometime there is enough backlash to overshift., when derailler jumps down. If you will fix this backlash - you shifting will be way more precise.
Had a similar problem but I was able to cure it. While I know it is a bit unconventional it worked for me and a friend. I gave the derailluer a slight low gear bias. Basically what I did was use barrel adjuster counterclockwise a few clicks so when looking at it from the back it is very slightly favoring the next gear so the guide pulley is a bit left of sprocket. My shifting is great both ways with no jumping. The only thing That I think I noticed was it seems a bit slower going into higher gears but not enough to cause any issues.
Have you adjusted the B screw? I had the same problem with my GX setup and the local shop couldn’t figure it out. I adjusted the B screw and the skipping and double shifting stopped.
I've got the sram nx eagle group set on my cube acid 2020 not had that problem at all no chain drop no gear slipping at all and done 6,0000 miles on it but did change front charring to a 36t and kmc black and gold chain never had a problem hope this helps guys P.S get your group set serviced once a year at your local bike shop.
Given the amount of spring tension on these SRAM deraileurs cable housing pull through becomes a problem quickly. Pull through allows the tension to drop (causing over shifting) and then come back to tension (returning to proper gear). Cable housings are a wear item and should be replaced as they wear out, especially on newer 12 speed rear deraileurs where tolerances between gears is measured in fractions of a millimeter. Shimano XT, Ultegra, Deore, etc. all do the same thing as housings wear out. Housings are cheap, change them twice a year and you'll be fine, especially if you ride a decent amount.
Going down shifting can be faster and chain has more momentum. I took the shifter apart, and problem cannot come from the shifter mounted on the handle bar. Also, going up, distances between upper pulley and cassette should shorten a bit, while going down normally the upper pulley shall suffer a small gain in distance that might provokes more play. WHat do you think?
You need to rotate the cable barrel adjuster away from you a couple notches. Check limit screws and b gap, make sure the derailleur hanger is not bent. I have never had this issue with my NX group set, GX group set, or X01.
Mine was throwing the chain off the 50 sprocket occasionally, have dialed the limit screw in a touch seems better, I suspect I have also had over shifting as sometimes you shift, it doesn't, then does so twice. I have tweaked the tension on the cable but not sure it its gone yet.
My Wife's SX Eagle is dropping the chain 4 gears when you try to backpedal even 1 crank rotation on the 50T sprocket, this is not happening in my Shimano SLX 1x11 drivetrain, which also has an 11-50 cassette and I can backpedal even 25 rotations without a chain drop. Is this normal for the Eagle groupsets, or is it just poorly adjusted? The owner of the bike shop insists that this is quite common and there's no fix for it.
My SX eagle has bound up and thrown me off the bike a few times. In the larger cogs it suddenly shifts itself down several gears and binds. SX also has issues coming off the 50 in normal operation
@@Montblanc1986 wow, that are not good news, this is simply unacceptable, and people said this compares to Shimano Deore lol, thanks for your feedback.
SRAM narrow-wide chainrings are great at "Grabbing" the chain going forward. They are so good that when backpedaling they can sometimes push the chain rewards and not allow the pawls inside the freehub body to release. In certain gears this can happen. Not common but does happen. As far as over-shifting outboard or inboard I would lubricate the shiter, lubricate the derailleur, run a new cable and tighten the cassette. That is the least expensive option than purchasing a new cassette or derailleur.
@@Asthbendriel this compares to shimano deore? not at all. deore is some strong stuff, it's made with metal and it's just better. gx eagle is in between deore and slx, more to the slx side, just 1/2 step down. i would put nx 1 step down deore. but sx, OH, the sx... i would put it against the acera or the altus, it's an acera with the clutch in terms of quality. sram stuff in general is bad
Same with Eagle SX, after 200km stops working normal, tried all thinks to fix nothing helps, on stand it looks OK but after few km of riding ... problems again :), replaced with Shimano deore 6100 RD only and it works like a charm no problems at all.
Been using for over 350km no issues! It’s a question of fine tuning... Maybe the stiffness of pricier groupsets prevents that from happening as sooner as it did on your bike... Really satisfied so far!! The price jump from the NX to the more technological is huge!!!
I have the same problem with Shimano slx 12 speed. I checked everything from wheel alignment, hanger alignment, cable, inner cable wear, shifter, but I think the problem is the excesive play in both pulleys, pivot points, the whole thing. I even aligned my derailleur hangar 3 times, massage my cable, inner cable, but nothing. They were meant to be a headache. I think the solution to the problem is replacing them with mid level to Pro.
same issue at the minute, brand new bike. Massive headache! Does your derailleur have play along the bolt? The tab washer was also supposed to be held in place when I tightened it on but the washer moves freely anyway when derailleur is locked out. Seems as though the bolt does not secure it all well enough to the frame
My nx 1x11 did the same, after I have bent the nx derailleur I have upgraded to gx which still does it occasionally but I have always thought that I cannot adjust it 100% correctly
I've got the SX and it's been the same. Still, after 1000km, I'm still hearing cranky noise even after some adjustments. The overshift was happening from the start, too. I was worried as it was a new bike and had this kind of problems. But overtime it got better.
Could be the tension of the cluch is weak, I have a new bike (less than 10km) NX and same issue, when pushing hard. I think it could be related with the tension, and I think there is a screw to push it hard.
same thing happens to me on sx 1x12. on the same gears too! I was thinking my hangar was bent because my new bike (Giant stance 29 1 2021) Came upside down in the box. I work at a bike shop, so I'm going to check the alignment of my derailleur. I'll bet that there's nothing wrong at all though.
So... when you cross that point of certain amount of miles / kms and it starts skipping cogs... What to do? I guess some parts worn out and might need to be replaced... but which parts? Cable, cogs and/or rear derailleur? 1,000km is just 6 months for an average weekend rider.
Not the shifter. Shifter can't shift beyond the limit screw setting, yet when set correctly, the NX will still shift right-off the 12th cog into the frame, from time to time. I've found that if you have the opportunity, when you shift, do it with no load on the crank, but still peddling slowly, and once you hear it change, THEN lay into it. That's at least helped from 11th to 12th, which is a much bigger pain in the ass than down the gears simply missing one on an upshift. Not cool, no matter what...complete junk, to be sure. I've had two of these brand new and doing the same crap on two bikes. Luckily, only one is shifting into the frame. And so my next move is to shim the entire cassette closer to the frame to see if it by chance may rectify that total derailment back there. Not holding out much hope. I'm afraid it is simply a poorly engineered product that SRAM has made a bunch of money on.
The sx eagle derailleur is made of plastic! That’s why it’s cheaper! In my opinion it’s junk as mine ripped off my bike last week while I pedaled about 8 feet away from my driveway! Put about 1200 miles on the bike. I have had two incidents that may have contributed to the failure. One I slide down in thick mud and the bike hit the ground and the other was a rock flipped up and hit my bike frame as I rode past it. All occurred several weeks ago that may have caused it to crack. The fall and the glancing rock strike in my opinion should not have been that severe to causes this problem! I have put my old Shimano equipment bike through much more torture and the derailleur as not even needed an adjustment! It your bike comes with SX derailleur change it as soon as possible to prevent this problem! It also bent one of my wheel spooks when it came off. There are others who have had this same problem! I understand what SRAM was trying to do but they missed the mark on this one. In my opinion an almost all plastic derailleur doesn’t belong on a mountain bike! It’s not durable enough! My bike is at the shop and I’m switching it out for a GX Eagle derailleur. I do like the 1 by 12 group sets though! Glad components are compatible through out all the eagle group sets where you can mix and match upgrades!
i have encounter that issue....what i do is put a small spacer between the 9 and 8 cogs just a thin spacer because the distance between the cogs on that gap is much smaller than the others....hope if will help
After 200 or so k, i'm experiencing the same problem with my nx 12s cassette and slx derailleur. Everything is brand new and aligned properly so i do suspect de mech cage alignment to. I'm trying to solv the problem by changing the slx mech with a brand new xt 12 speed mech and se if the overshift goes away...
I think the problem is with the cassette getting worn out. It happens in the middle cause most of us spend the most time riding in the middle of the cassette.
NX11 here , doesn't like 1st gear or 11 ,problems throughout the shifting , i've tried everything, i hate it, of course the "cure" is simple and was there all the time, it's called 2 x 10
I have put 1300 km on my Trek Roscoe and NX does this. I have learnt to live with it though, and it doesn't really affect my riding. I still think it's a great groupset for the price. I'm picking up a new mountain bike with GX, so I will be interested to see if there's a difference in quality
Sam Lewis Hate to break it to ya.. but my GX eagle group set does it as well. I think its just a flaw with the new eagle and will eventually get fixed. Not a huge deal for me though. Rarely do I notice it.
It happened to me as well, but in the 8th gear on my GX Eagle. I fixed it a bit by resetting the mechanic's tuning its still there but not happening as much.
There is a faulty design or "feature" of NX rear derailleur - put the chain off and you will recognize, that there is a play between the derailleur and its fixing bolt on hanger.. Maybe that is the reason of faulty shifting to higher gears.
I got my NX Eagle chain snapped after 216km. Many links were cracked. The whole groupset is new and came installed on my cannondale fsi 5 2019. I was upshifting to smaller cogs and I believe had the same issue during the ride. Ordered a replacement in warranty but I had to order a new GX chain in the meanwhile.
Happens on new Sram GX groupsets also, horrible over shifting and also have to sometimes press the shifter twice to get it to move down the cassette. The b-tension bolt is also pressing against plastic which Gets cut up after a few turns. Pure garbage! Will be switching to shimano next time
After reading all the comments, wow. So many people with the same issue. And the funny thing is, I can't find a "how to switch from Sram to Shimano" video. I mean, which parts of the drivetrain would I need? I'm looking to move to XT, if anything.
I have a problema with my NX Eagle too. In this "middle" gears, when I´m going up the cassete it simply gets lost and keeps changing up and down. I've checked the cable tension, lub, clened the chain. My groupset is even newer than yours (less than 1000km). Hanger is fine, it was checked the B distance too.
you have to check the deraileur hanger. That is a classic problem with bendet hanger :) go to some bike shop and ask them to check it out with a deraileur hanger tool :)
Yup. This is still happening. Just got a new Scott eMTB (Strike 903) with the NX derailleur and SX shifter and it has happened to me. As a novice too, it was a WTF moment and I've already started to look for alternatives. My first impression is to change out the shifter. I'd like to go to the X01. What do you think? My other thinking is to actually switch to Shimano. My son also got an eMTB (Haibike Nine 9) and it has the el-cheapo Shimano, but even I can tell it shifts better, especially under some load (yes, I know, don't shift under load, but sometimes it just isn't avoidable). I still don't understand why SRAM is considered still a better choice over Shimano.
Just a quick update. I stuck it out and decided to try and adjust the DR myself. I'm fairly handy, so I gave it a shot. And I fixed it. It seems, it was slack in the cable causing the problem. I tried the slack out by adjusting with the knob on the DR, but for some reason, things just got worse using that. So, I relieved the tension via the knob a couple of turns from where I started, pulled out the slack in the cable, then retensioned via the knob so the mid-shifting was working and boom, the DR started working again as it should. I'm still thinking of upgrading the shifter though.
@@scottamolinari Upgraded from nx to GX shifter. Huge difference. Also ordered xx1 mounting bolt to take out side play.Have to stick to 11 speed (160 NM Of torque).
Useful Video! I have this same drivetrain and it's still pretty new. The other day I was riding my bike through a chunky ( roots, ruts, rock garden...) descent. I'm pretty sure the chain dropped in the cassette from one gear to another. Is this normal on technical sections, or it shouldn't do so? I was looking on the SRAM site for an owner's manual but didn't find one yet. I'm curious if I can adjust the clutch? Maybe this will resolve the issue? Please advise. Thanks.
I got a brand new mountain bike with less than 200 Km on it with the NX, having the same issue, It was driving me nuts, a bit of tweaking and made it better but not perfect. !!!!
An old post but, I get it on the smallest /highest cog...shifts right into the frame and I have to down-shift once to make it jump back on the cog. No limit screw helps, as when you adjust enough to make it not happen, you're stuck between 12th and 11th...clacking away.
I experienced this with my xx1 dub eagle group set, I tried everything even buying new cables but the problem still persists. I sold my xx1 eagle and bought the xx1 eagle axs and now the shifting performance on my bike is 👌🏻 👍 👊🏻
I think I'm going to AXS myself, im a perfectionist and I freajing find myself turning the barrel adjust all the way down the damn trail never being able to get it perfect
I've got the same problem in a new bike, got it for a month and from beggining the NX working this way with overshifting. Today i have some time and done some research to adjust this groupset, but as i can see now, this cannot be adjusted, because it's some kind of drawback in this NX 1x12
It case you didn't get the memo, Shimano has 1x12 group sets now. Also, you can use Sram cassettes with the Shimano shifter and rear der. P.S. Sram sucks.
Could the cable HOUSING be affecting the derailleur movement ...causing the mis-shifting? My bike has internal cable routing and I've noticed after a few rides that the housing has extended out of the chainstay a little. And now I'm beginning to experience some mis-shifts. Brand new it worked perfect. ...And I can't seem to retract the housing by pulling on where it enters the frame at the head tube.
I have the same one on my ghost lector and i think its cause the shifter whitch you push for the heavier gear gives you no fealing its just klick and works so fast das this klick is sometimes just to fast
Hi, why do you use "resin pad only" rotors? Those oem rt54 are pretty lame. Upgrade to rt64 or even ice tech, you will definitely feel the difference in modulation. I upgraded from rt54 to rt62(older model, not resin pad only though) and I got a much smoother and also stronger brake. These cheap "resin pad only" are junk, after long downhill they squeal and warp badly. Too soft. Let me know what you know maybe a video about rotors? Bye
hi , ive been struggling with the same downshift issues for 2 years.... sooner or later the problem starts and the shifting coming down the cassette become unreliable.. its been back into the shop ...had the derallieur changed and then upgraded to a GX but the problem is back again...there is something not right about the geometry of the mechanism when it gets a little use...
Thanks for the vid. I had perfect shifting then overshifted and snapped the chain. Replaced chain, all other stuff good. Now cant get a smooth shift coming off the 50 tooth, but all other gear ratios fine??
Yeah nx came on mine, not too bad but if I snap one (which will happen at some point coz I do jumping) then I’ll upgrade to gx, no point getting gx now it’s just a waste of money
I've seen this lately on an older xtr 10 speed. It really feels like: when the shifter can do several gears in one pull it has a tendency to overshoot the first click but not all the way to the second click so the chain passes two cogs and immediately fall down one to the proper cog. Is this the same thing?
Danny--i have a 2018 Canyon Spectral with GX and now when I back pedal on the 50 tooth sprocket maybe 2-3 revolutions the chain jumps to the next lower sprocket, only happens on the 50 tooth sprocket--suggestions?????
Just wondering. I have big nine nx edition small size. I want to change the set up into aggressive like changing the travel higher of the fork, short stem, higher rise 780 handlebar and 27.5 wheelset. What are thoughts about it?
Having a full SX set, I can confirm that I experienced the same problem from day 1. I got a new derailleur under warranty, and the problem didn't change much. After about 6 months and less than 800 miles, the clutch came apart in the middle of a ride. Now I decided to upgrade, but I'm split between GX or X01 derailleurs. Any thoughts?
SX is horrible. Stay away. Spend little more for better quality and longevity. SX arm is plastic and it will break off easily. And just going from SX to NX derailleur completely change how my bike shifts
Same here...NX sometimes overshifts on middle cog gears. Moved to X01 and its the same...maybe not so often. PS RD hanger is aligned. Also had one chain drop on NX going to the highest gear ...although limit screw was set ok. It was during downhill..
I had same problem yesterday. It was cable tension. Exact same problem for me. I had to unscrew cable at the derailleur and then tighten then one rotation back on tension adjuster at the front then redo everything and worked on fine tuning tension and it works well now
Hi. When backpedaling on the lowest gear on my SX the chain drops into a higher great. Does that happen to your derailleur too or is that a adjustment issue? Thank you !! PS: Thank you for your awesome videos :) Will you be doing a SX test soon?
i don't have sx i have deore, but a friend of mine has deore xt and it does the same thing your sx does. you could try to play a little bit (1/10 of a turn) with the limit screw but usually it doesn't solve anything. simply, when you are in the lower gear the chain is really bent, really crossed and it wants to go to the opposite side, plus there is gravity pulling it down and it drops. it happens with every 1x11, 1x12 and sometimes even with 1x10 if your cassette doesn't have narrow-wide teeth or something to keep the chain in place.
Are you referring to my post? I did take it to my local shop to get checked out and it is fine. I may have shifted and descended before it completed the shift? I have to pay more attention on my next ride. My shop told me that SRAM's clutches aren't as firm as Shimano, which could be part of the problem. I plan to go for a ride tomorrow and will hit the same section. Then I'll report back.
Hi. Thank you first for your videos ... I have that group too but now with 500km the four big pine nuts make a noise like tik tik ... Someone has passed, can you help me? The transmission is perfect, it is only that noise and in the store they do not find it ... Thanks greetings
Brand new NX derailleur here, on a new bike with less than 50 miles. Will not shift properly! Too much play in the hanger bolt which is a known problem. SRAM keeps selling this garbage! Replacing with Shimano since the warranty process only provides you with another DEFECTIVE part!
I have the exact same problem with a brand new SRAM SX Eagle Trigger shifter / SX Eagle rear derailleur / PG-1210 Eagle cassette combination and could not fix it so far
Did you try to replace these pulleys by bearing pulleys? Maybe the guide pulley has a lot of play. Maybe you should try a slx (m7100 12s) trigger and derailleur on this cassete and chain and bring this information to us.. Hahahha
My question is, is there an obvious consistent issue with the GX doing this crap? I just happen to have a new GX rear in a box for another build that I never started. May try to install that on the affected gravel-bike I'm having the NX issues with. Next Im'ma stick my gravel wheels on my $6,000.00 enduro that has 170 mm travel and redneck that sucker around town...I do more urban curb-crushing than down-hilling! I've never had a hiccup out of that XT drivetrain!!!
You can place a wedge between the derailleur and the hanger (a piece of rubber from the air chamber, for example). This removes the slack that exists in this region and thus improves the accuracy of gear changes.
I believe the problem is the derailer hanger is bent. The longer pulley arm is exerting enough lever force to bend the hanger toward the wheel slightly over time. This causes chain to rub the big cogs first. Reducing cable tension fixes the big cog rub but causes the over shift on the smaller cog. It just gets worse (keeps bending) to where if you can tune the high gears or the low gears not both. Straighten the hanger fixes the problem temporarily. I’m trying to source a stiffer hanger as I write this.
There is a play in the shaft/bolt holding rear derailer into hanger. B-tention screw is rotating derailler around this shaft/bolt. You can feel and see backlash there, when trying to woble entire derailler by hand in the direction parallel to the rear hub axle. Sometime there is enough backlash to overshift., when derailler jumps down. If you will fix this backlash - you shifting will be way more precise.
But how to fix the free play in that bushing?
Had a similar problem but I was able to cure it. While I know it is a bit unconventional it worked for me and a friend. I gave the derailluer a slight low gear bias. Basically what I did was use barrel adjuster counterclockwise a few clicks so when looking at it from the back it is very slightly favoring the next gear so the guide pulley is a bit left of sprocket. My shifting is great both ways with no jumping. The only thing That I think I noticed was it seems a bit slower going into higher gears but not enough to cause any issues.
I also had this problem with brand new NX Eagle. Then I tried to adjust the tension of the cable and now I think it is much better.
Have you adjusted the B screw? I had the same problem with my GX setup and the local shop couldn’t figure it out. I adjusted the B screw and the skipping and double shifting stopped.
I've got the sram nx eagle group set on my cube acid 2020 not had that problem at all
no chain drop no gear slipping at all and done 6,0000 miles on it
but did change front charring to a 36t and kmc black and gold chain
never had a problem hope this helps guys P.S get your group set serviced once a year
at your local bike shop.
Given the amount of spring tension on these SRAM deraileurs cable housing pull through becomes a problem quickly. Pull through allows the tension to drop (causing over shifting) and then come back to tension (returning to proper gear). Cable housings are a wear item and should be replaced as they wear out, especially on newer 12 speed rear deraileurs where tolerances between gears is measured in fractions of a millimeter. Shimano XT, Ultegra, Deore, etc. all do the same thing as housings wear out. Housings are cheap, change them twice a year and you'll be fine, especially if you ride a decent amount.
Seems like B tension needs to be adjusted, the jockey wheel is too far from the cassette to accurately position the chain.
The main failure from NX is the B Bolt that wears because didnt have bushings like XX and produce lateral play.
Its not a issue with the NX, Check your Setup. Increase your cable Tension just a Little Bit and that Problem is gone.
Didn’t fix it for me so I’m switching to gx
@@5555alejandro after that comment I actually switched to x01 lol and now I’m switching to a new bike with shimano
Going down shifting can be faster and chain has more momentum. I took the shifter apart, and problem cannot come from the shifter mounted on the handle bar. Also, going up, distances between upper pulley and cassette should shorten a bit, while going down normally the upper pulley shall suffer a small gain in distance that might provokes more play. WHat do you think?
You need to rotate the cable barrel adjuster away from you a couple notches. Check limit screws and b gap, make sure the derailleur hanger is not bent. I have never had this issue with my NX group set, GX group set, or X01.
did all that on a new bike, NX is junk. None of that stops the trigger shifting to a position where no gear exists and it does it easily...
Jon Donnelly you r a joke
Had the exact same problem with my nx. Had the rd hanger realigned and the problem went away.
Just index it or check the limit screw that happens some times
Mine was throwing the chain off the 50 sprocket occasionally, have dialed the limit screw in a touch seems better, I suspect I have also had over shifting as sometimes you shift, it doesn't, then does so twice. I have tweaked the tension on the cable but not sure it its gone yet.
Derailleur hanger could be bent. More speeds, more prone to slight imperfections. Cheers mate, keep good videos :)
I thought that too. The cassette sprockets are so close to each other that a slight inallignment with the rd may result to a inaccurate shifts.
My Wife's SX Eagle is dropping the chain 4 gears when you try to backpedal even 1 crank rotation on the 50T sprocket, this is not happening in my Shimano SLX 1x11 drivetrain, which also has an 11-50 cassette and I can backpedal even 25 rotations without a chain drop. Is this normal for the Eagle groupsets, or is it just poorly adjusted? The owner of the bike shop insists that this is quite common and there's no fix for it.
My SX eagle has bound up and thrown me off the bike a few times. In the larger cogs it suddenly shifts itself down several gears and binds. SX also has issues coming off the 50 in normal operation
@@Montblanc1986 wow, that are not good news, this is simply unacceptable, and people said this compares to Shimano Deore lol, thanks for your feedback.
SRAM narrow-wide chainrings are great at "Grabbing" the chain going forward. They are so good that when backpedaling they can sometimes push the chain rewards and not allow the pawls inside the freehub body to release. In certain gears this can happen. Not common but does happen. As far as over-shifting outboard or inboard I would lubricate the shiter, lubricate the derailleur, run a new cable and tighten the cassette. That is the least expensive option than purchasing a new cassette or derailleur.
@@Asthbendriel this compares to shimano deore? not at all. deore is some strong stuff, it's made with metal and it's just better. gx eagle is in between deore and slx, more to the slx side, just 1/2 step down. i would put nx 1 step down deore. but sx, OH, the sx... i would put it against the acera or the altus, it's an acera with the clutch in terms of quality.
sram stuff in general is bad
Same with Eagle SX, after 200km stops working normal, tried all thinks to fix nothing helps, on stand it looks OK but after few km of riding ... problems again :), replaced with Shimano deore 6100 RD only and it works like a charm no problems at all.
Been using for over 350km no issues! It’s a question of fine tuning... Maybe the stiffness of pricier groupsets prevents that from happening as sooner as it did on your bike... Really satisfied so far!! The price jump from the NX to the more technological is huge!!!
I have the same problem with Shimano slx 12 speed. I checked everything from wheel alignment, hanger alignment, cable, inner cable wear, shifter, but I think the problem is the excesive play in both pulleys, pivot points, the whole thing. I even aligned my derailleur hangar 3 times, massage my cable, inner cable, but nothing. They were meant to be a headache. I think the solution to the problem is replacing them with mid level to Pro.
same issue at the minute, brand new bike. Massive headache! Does your derailleur have play along the bolt? The tab washer was also supposed to be held in place when I tightened it on but the washer moves freely anyway when derailleur is locked out. Seems as though the bolt does not secure it all well enough to the frame
My nx 1x11 did the same, after I have bent the nx derailleur I have upgraded to gx which still does it occasionally but I have always thought that I cannot adjust it 100% correctly
I installed my new NX derailleur today and noticed somewhat roughness in the middle range of gears.
Same NX is complete JUNK. Brand new bike.
I've got the SX and it's been the same. Still, after 1000km, I'm still hearing cranky noise even after some adjustments. The overshift was happening from the start, too. I was worried as it was a new bike and had this kind of problems. But overtime it got better.
It’s a fine thing to tune in when it gets run in , had it years ago with LX
Could be the tension of the cluch is weak, I have a new bike (less than 10km) NX and same issue, when pushing hard. I think it could be related with the tension, and I think there is a screw to push it hard.
I knew something was happening but dident know what. Now i know. Mine has over 6000km. Thanks.
same thing happens to me on sx 1x12. on the same gears too! I was thinking my hangar was bent because my new bike (Giant stance 29 1 2021) Came upside down in the box. I work at a bike shop, so I'm going to check the alignment of my derailleur. I'll bet that there's nothing wrong at all though.
Maybe you have to turn the shifter's cable half turn one way or another to tighten or loosen the cable.
Cosmin Adrian Gavrila tighten
So... when you cross that point of certain amount of miles / kms and it starts skipping cogs... What to do? I guess some parts worn out and might need to be replaced... but which parts? Cable, cogs and/or rear derailleur? 1,000km is just 6 months for an average weekend rider.
Not the shifter. Shifter can't shift beyond the limit screw setting, yet when set correctly, the NX will still shift right-off the 12th cog into the frame, from time to time. I've found that if you have the opportunity, when you shift, do it with no load on the crank, but still peddling slowly, and once you hear it change, THEN lay into it. That's at least helped from 11th to 12th, which is a much bigger pain in the ass than down the gears simply missing one on an upshift. Not cool, no matter what...complete junk, to be sure. I've had two of these brand new and doing the same crap on two bikes. Luckily, only one is shifting into the frame. And so my next move is to shim the entire cassette closer to the frame to see if it by chance may rectify that total derailment back there. Not holding out much hope. I'm afraid it is simply a poorly engineered product that SRAM has made a bunch of money on.
The sx eagle derailleur is made of plastic! That’s why it’s cheaper! In my opinion it’s junk as mine ripped off my bike last week while I pedaled about 8 feet away from my driveway! Put about 1200 miles on the bike. I have had two incidents that may have contributed to the failure. One I slide down in thick mud and the bike hit the ground and the other was a rock flipped up and hit my bike frame as I rode past it. All occurred several weeks ago that may have caused it to crack. The fall and the glancing rock strike in my opinion should not have been that severe to causes this problem! I have put my old Shimano equipment bike through much more torture and the derailleur as not even needed an adjustment! It your bike comes with SX derailleur change it as soon as possible to prevent this problem! It also bent one of my wheel spooks when it came off. There are others who have had this same problem! I understand what SRAM was trying to do but they missed the mark on this one. In my opinion an almost all plastic derailleur doesn’t belong on a mountain bike! It’s not durable enough! My bike is at the shop and I’m switching it out for a GX Eagle derailleur. I do like the 1 by 12 group sets though! Glad components are compatible through out all the eagle group sets where you can mix and match upgrades!
The NX derailleur is extremely flexy
i have encounter that issue....what i do is put a small spacer between the 9 and 8 cogs just a thin spacer because the distance between the cogs on that gap is much smaller than the others....hope if will help
After 200 or so k, i'm experiencing the same problem with my nx 12s cassette and slx derailleur. Everything is brand new and aligned properly so i do suspect de mech cage alignment to. I'm trying to solv the problem by changing the slx mech with a brand new xt 12 speed mech and se if the overshift goes away...
So?
@@Grobbiestraining
Same thing... Stick with full Shimano groupset. Best!
I think the problem is with the cassette getting worn out. It happens in the middle cause most of us spend the most time riding in the middle of the cassette.
NX11 here , doesn't like 1st gear or 11 ,problems throughout the shifting , i've tried everything, i hate it, of course the "cure" is simple and was there all the time, it's called 2 x 10
I have put 1300 km on my Trek Roscoe and NX does this. I have learnt to live with it though, and it doesn't really affect my riding. I still think it's a great groupset for the price. I'm picking up a new mountain bike with GX, so I will be interested to see if there's a difference in quality
Sam Lewis
Hate to break it to ya.. but my GX eagle group set does it as well. I think its just a flaw with the new eagle and will eventually get fixed. Not a huge deal for me though. Rarely do I notice it.
It happened to me as well, but in the 8th gear on my GX Eagle. I fixed it a bit by resetting the mechanic's tuning its still there but not happening as much.
There is a faulty design or "feature" of NX rear derailleur - put the chain off and you will recognize, that there is a play between the derailleur and its fixing bolt on hanger.. Maybe that is the reason of faulty shifting to higher gears.
I have the same problem with my gx eagle. It has not gotten better after I changed cassette to sunrace cassette (run with 10-50 cassette XD body)
can you please review the sram SX??? THANKS FOR THE GREAT JOB.
I have the same problem with nx eagle 12 speed. And it is very slow to shift into the highest gear..
This. It takes a second to shift onto the smallest cog for me.
@@grandbuba i have solve with b gap tension. The correct distance is, chain on the 42 teeth cog and 3 mm from the shifter pulley and 50 teeth cog..
Is the derailleur causing it or the shifter... Maybe a GX shifter fixes the issue already...
I got my NX Eagle chain snapped after 216km. Many links were cracked. The whole groupset is new and came installed on my cannondale fsi 5 2019. I was upshifting to smaller cogs and I believe had the same issue during the ride. Ordered a replacement in warranty but I had to order a new GX chain in the meanwhile.
Happens on new Sram GX groupsets also, horrible over shifting and also have to sometimes press the shifter twice to get it to move down the cassette. The b-tension bolt is also pressing against plastic which Gets cut up after a few turns. Pure garbage! Will be switching to shimano next time
Have the same problemen with my NX
After reading all the comments, wow. So many people with the same issue. And the funny thing is, I can't find a "how to switch from Sram to Shimano" video. I mean, which parts of the drivetrain would I need? I'm looking to move to XT, if anything.
Ok. I found a video and it is possible to replace the NX DR and shifter with Shimano XT.
@@scottamolinari where is video??
It's been 2 years by now. Have Sram fix the issue with the overshifting problem? Thanks
Hi mate i saw you change the nx for "new gx" what its your humble opinion of the performance? Better than xt? Thank you!
You need to adjust the B limit
I have a problema with my NX Eagle too. In this "middle" gears, when I´m going up the cassete it simply gets lost and keeps changing up and down.
I've checked the cable tension, lub, clened the chain. My groupset is even newer than yours (less than 1000km).
Hanger is fine, it was checked the B distance too.
you have to check the deraileur hanger. That is a classic problem with bendet hanger :) go to some bike shop and ask them to check it out with a deraileur hanger tool :)
@@tonchotonev3773 it was done.
Yup. This is still happening. Just got a new Scott eMTB (Strike 903) with the NX derailleur and SX shifter and it has happened to me. As a novice too, it was a WTF moment and I've already started to look for alternatives. My first impression is to change out the shifter. I'd like to go to the X01. What do you think? My other thinking is to actually switch to Shimano. My son also got an eMTB (Haibike Nine 9) and it has the el-cheapo Shimano, but even I can tell it shifts better, especially under some load (yes, I know, don't shift under load, but sometimes it just isn't avoidable). I still don't understand why SRAM is considered still a better choice over Shimano.
Just a quick update. I stuck it out and decided to try and adjust the DR myself. I'm fairly handy, so I gave it a shot. And I fixed it. It seems, it was slack in the cable causing the problem. I tried the slack out by adjusting with the knob on the DR, but for some reason, things just got worse using that. So, I relieved the tension via the knob a couple of turns from where I started, pulled out the slack in the cable, then retensioned via the knob so the mid-shifting was working and boom, the DR started working again as it should. I'm still thinking of upgrading the shifter though.
@@scottamolinari Upgraded from nx to GX shifter. Huge difference. Also ordered xx1 mounting bolt to take out side play.Have to stick to 11 speed (160 NM Of torque).
Useful Video!
I have this same drivetrain and it's still pretty new.
The other day I was riding my bike through a chunky ( roots, ruts, rock garden...) descent.
I'm pretty sure the chain dropped in the cassette from one gear to another. Is this normal on
technical sections, or it shouldn't do so?
I was looking on the SRAM site for an owner's manual but didn't find one yet. I'm curious if I can
adjust the clutch? Maybe this will resolve the issue? Please advise. Thanks.
Sram have a TH-cam channel maybe they have something to help you on there.
I got a brand new mountain bike with less than 200 Km on it with the NX, having the same issue, It was driving me nuts, a bit of tweaking and made it better but not perfect. !!!!
I have a problem whit the nx overshift on the lower sprocket(10) end than my thain stuck end damage my frame
An old post but, I get it on the smallest /highest cog...shifts right into the frame and I have to down-shift once to make it jump back on the cog. No limit screw helps, as when you adjust enough to make it not happen, you're stuck between 12th and 11th...clacking away.
I experienced this with my xx1 dub eagle group set, I tried everything even buying new cables but the problem still persists. I sold my xx1 eagle and bought the xx1 eagle axs and now the shifting performance on my bike is 👌🏻 👍 👊🏻
I think I'm going to AXS myself, im a perfectionist and I freajing find myself turning the barrel adjust all the way down the damn trail never being able to get it perfect
I have same ptoblem. Definitely leaving nx...
I’m using sx groupset planning an upgrade to gx groupset, does the gx groupset will have this issue?. Or should go for shimano?.
i always go for shimano i had an sx it sucks!! recommend shimano
True happens to me on my 12s sx so weird
Yes I encountered that problem also. How can I fix it??
I have an XX1 groupset(11s) and never had a problem like this(still original componets on the bike)
Yo Danny what lube do you use for your training/racing?
My SX is jumping also while changing, even the mechanics can’t even fix it 😔 any advice pls.
Buy shimano!
Check RD hanger if its bent or not.
I've got the same problem in a new bike, got it for a month and from beggining the NX working this way with overshifting. Today i have some time and done some research to adjust this groupset, but as i can see now, this cannot be adjusted, because it's some kind of drawback in this NX 1x12
It case you didn't get the memo, Shimano has 1x12 group sets now. Also, you can use Sram cassettes with the Shimano shifter and rear der.
P.S. Sram sucks.
Could the cable HOUSING be affecting the derailleur movement ...causing the mis-shifting? My bike has internal cable routing and I've noticed after a few rides that the housing has extended out of the chainstay a little. And now I'm beginning to experience some mis-shifts. Brand new it worked perfect.
...And I can't seem to retract the housing by pulling on where it enters the frame at the head tube.
I have the same one on my ghost lector and i think its cause the shifter whitch you push for the heavier gear gives you no fealing its just klick and works so fast das this klick is sometimes just to fast
Best review as usual, and I had just ordered the NX, then it's the cheapest,
Hi, why do you use "resin pad only" rotors? Those oem rt54 are pretty lame. Upgrade to rt64 or even ice tech, you will definitely feel the difference in modulation. I upgraded from rt54 to rt62(older model, not resin pad only though) and I got a much smoother and also stronger brake. These cheap "resin pad only" are junk, after long downhill they squeal and warp badly. Too soft. Let me know what you know maybe a video about rotors? Bye
that is what came with the bike, like most of us, he will use them until they wear out, then upgrade
hi , ive been struggling with the same downshift issues for 2 years.... sooner or later the problem starts and the shifting coming down the cassette become unreliable.. its been back into the shop ...had the derallieur changed and then upgraded to a GX but the problem is back again...there is something not right about the geometry of the mechanism when it gets a little use...
Thanks for the vid. I had perfect shifting then overshifted and snapped the chain. Replaced chain, all other stuff good. Now cant get a smooth shift coming off the 50 tooth, but all other gear ratios fine??
NX rear derailleur is extremely flexi for $10 more just get a GX rear derailleur and you're good to go
Yeah nx came on mine, not too bad but if I snap one (which will happen at some point coz I do jumping) then I’ll upgrade to gx, no point getting gx now it’s just a waste of money
Some people are replying the GX also has the same issue.
have you verified your derrailleur hanger? seems a bit more open on the bottom, it doesn+t seem parallel to the hub/cassete
I've seen this lately on an older xtr 10 speed. It really feels like: when the shifter can do several gears in one pull it has a tendency to overshoot the first click but not all the way to the second click so the chain passes two cogs and immediately fall down one to the proper cog. Is this the same thing?
Danny--i have a 2018 Canyon Spectral with GX and now when I back pedal on the 50 tooth sprocket maybe 2-3 revolutions the chain jumps to the next lower sprocket, only happens on the 50 tooth sprocket--suggestions?????
jim dandy b limit
Or l limit
My first 3 NX rear mechs all got stuck on the 50.
Same problem here 💁♂️
Just wondering. I have big nine nx edition small size. I want to change the set up into aggressive like changing the travel higher of the fork, short stem, higher rise 780 handlebar and 27.5 wheelset. What are thoughts about it?
Having a full SX set, I can confirm that I experienced the same problem from day 1. I got a new derailleur under warranty, and the problem didn't change much. After about 6 months and less than 800 miles, the clutch came apart in the middle of a ride. Now I decided to upgrade, but I'm split between GX or X01 derailleurs. Any thoughts?
GX is a good DEAL!
Cable tension 😉
It's not cable tention. I get the same problem on my SX derailleur. Just cheap crap from sram. GX and above is great.
SX review?
SX is horrible. Stay away. Spend little more for better quality and longevity. SX arm is plastic and it will break off easily. And just going from SX to NX derailleur completely change how my bike shifts
Same here...NX sometimes overshifts on middle cog gears. Moved to X01 and its the same...maybe not so often. PS RD hanger is aligned.
Also had one chain drop on NX going to the highest gear ...although limit screw was set ok. It was during downhill..
I had same problem yesterday. It was cable tension. Exact same problem for me. I had to unscrew cable at the derailleur and then tighten then one rotation back on tension adjuster at the front then redo everything and worked on fine tuning tension and it works well now
A mi despues de 4000 km. Le he cambiado el cable. y empezó a hacerlo. Lo he vuelto a ajustar como tu y perfecto. Ahora va bien. Espero que me dure.
Replacing my fussy, floppy and not durable NX with an SLX mech and XT shifter. Wouldn't touch SX with a 40 foot pole.
SX is actually not that bad, I've raced it and has held up well
I have these movement on my m6000 rear derailluer but i dont experience overshifting.
Hi. When backpedaling on the lowest gear on my SX the chain drops into a higher great. Does that happen to your derailleur too or is that a adjustment issue? Thank you !!
PS: Thank you for your awesome videos :)
Will you be doing a SX test soon?
i don't have sx i have deore, but a friend of mine has deore xt and it does the same thing your sx does. you could try to play a little bit (1/10 of a turn) with the limit screw but usually it doesn't solve anything. simply, when you are in the lower gear the chain is really bent, really crossed and it wants to go to the opposite side, plus there is gravity pulling it down and it drops. it happens with every 1x11, 1x12 and sometimes even with 1x10 if your cassette doesn't have narrow-wide teeth or something to keep the chain in place.
My bic has sx, Same problem here.
Happens on SX too.
That’s the way you’ve set it up?
Could it be the gap adjustment between the top pulley and the cassette?
cable stretched? If its only when your going down the cassette, back out the barrel adjuster a bit.
Cables cant be stretched, just bed in housing.
@@sretenzivkovic6964 It's what people say... Ferrules settle in mainly. Unlike brakes you cant just give it a big squeeze, so it slowly happens.
Hi, have you found any solution or workaround?, my bike is almost new (6 months, not ridden much) and has this problem
Are you referring to my post? I did take it to my local shop to get checked out and it is fine. I may have shifted and descended before it completed the shift? I have to pay more attention on my next ride. My shop told me that SRAM's clutches aren't as firm as Shimano, which could be part of the problem.
I plan to go for a ride tomorrow and will hit the same section. Then I'll report back.
It is either derailleur hanger might be bent or cable tension.
Does it still have the same problem? I was planning to upgrade from a 3x7 to 1x12 sram sx.
Go for deore
dude i have an sx, it works great but better if you go for a deore, plz
Hi.
Thank you first for your videos ...
I have that group too but now with 500km the four big pine nuts make a noise like tik tik ...
Someone has passed, can you help me?
The transmission is perfect, it is only that noise and in the store they do not find it ...
Thanks greetings
Brand new NX derailleur here, on a new bike with less than 50 miles. Will not shift properly! Too much play in the hanger bolt which is a known problem. SRAM keeps selling this garbage! Replacing with Shimano since the warranty process only provides you with another DEFECTIVE part!
I have the exact same problem with a brand new SRAM SX Eagle Trigger shifter / SX Eagle rear derailleur / PG-1210 Eagle cassette combination and could not fix it so far
Did you try to replace these pulleys by bearing pulleys? Maybe the guide pulley has a lot of play. Maybe you should try a slx (m7100 12s) trigger and derailleur on this cassete and chain and bring this information to us.. Hahahha
My question is, is there an obvious consistent issue with the GX doing this crap? I just happen to have a new GX rear in a box for another build that I never started. May try to install that on the affected gravel-bike I'm having the NX issues with. Next Im'ma stick my gravel wheels on my $6,000.00 enduro that has 170 mm travel and redneck that sucker around town...I do more urban curb-crushing than down-hilling! I've never had a hiccup out of that XT drivetrain!!!
My nx has been used for a year noe and it doesnt over shift or chain jumps