Thank you for watching this video. the first thing to do is identify the window model/year then you can get the split arm on Amazon at, amzn.to/2H2IV53. Make sure you get the correct one. You will need to look from the outside to see which way the window opens and not from the inside. There is a left or right split arm. Note that you will need to salvage the old handle as the split arm kit does not come with the handle. You can also get the handle on amazon, amzn.to/2H0LIvx. Also note these parts listed are for windows from 1982 to 1995. You will need to determine the model and when your windows were installed to figure out the correct parts. Note the the bottom wood piece can break, that piece is called the bottom casement sill stop, Part #: 1352406.Andersen's site has more info, parts.andersenwindows.com/detail_1352406__w_casement_stops.html?item=1352406&category=w_casement_stops Amazon 30 day FREE Trial - amzn.to/2ItA9Ar If this has been helpful please subscribe to me channel.
I also want to thank you for the video - I am in a rental and prefer not to have to have my landlord fix every little thing - house is 100 years old - bought the parts (even the extra white cover) and was done in 20 minutes. My main worry was the lower wood panel - thinking that more than the bottom piece of the frame would have to be removed - but looked closer at your video and went to it. They didn't even nail the panel down - it was nailed down some years past - the holes were there. I used my trusty Gorilla glue to replace it and it now works like a charm. Looks great too. My wife will finish up with some white silicone to cover the seam and you won't be able to tell it was replaced. Took pictures of the process for the record and kept receipts. Thanks again!
our HOA handyman window repair guy has been busting my balls about having to replace this bit and how the whole window frame needs to come out and blah blah won't do it for free ($280/mo HOA fees...). I bought this part and replaced it in minutes after watching this video. Thanks man!
Was able to replace the operator on my Andersen casement window thanks to this video. The worst part was paying $72 for the part but it's better than a new window or even paying someone to do it for me. The sill stop came out pretty easy for me after I scored it with a utility knife. It was only secured with two brad nails on the edges, so mine fortunately didn't crack or break. I was able to just replace the operator and put the sill back in place after without having to paint. Ran some caulking to blend it back in and it looks just like it did before. Anyway, thanks again, I really appreciated this video.
You are the only one to mention the perspective to use when selecting right or left operating arm. Almost ordered a right. Confirmed on Andersen. Thanks
So, totally followed this advice - especially the part where you said “make sure you look at the window from the outside.” I triple checked. Bought one for the left, since from the inside it opened to the right, and outside it opened to the left. Wrong. The left one would only open to the left when I installed it with the crank on the inside of the house (where it belongs) and it wouldn’t connect to the window. I had to go back and return it and switch it out for a right hand one. And it worked perfectly in the window - that opens to the left on the outside and the right from the inside.
Good illustration, but a few suggestions. First, if you open and release the window first, you can pry it up from the outside (I prefer a sharp 1" wood chisel, bevel side down, so that it gives you the leverage to pry up. That way, you don't mar the inside at all. As soon as you locate the two nails, pry right next to them alternately, keeping the trim piece level, to prevent splitting or cracking it. Only pry it high enough to get a side cutter in (once again from the outside) and clip the nails as close to the bottom as possible, then gently pull the wood piece straight out, w/ the remainder of the nails in it. The nails I've encountered were in at angle, so the higher you pry the greater the risk of splitting the piece. Very easy to tap down the remainder of the clipped nails into the base and cut the rest of the nails off flush from the trim piece, rather than pulling them out w/ a pliers. That way, you don't leave a big hole to patch and again reduce the risk of cracking the wood. Be sure to predrill the holes for the replacement brads, smaller than the brad head diameter. Use a little soap on the ends of the piece when you replace it so that it goes in easier.
@@daP.A I didn't mean you had to be outside to do the work. I just reached through the open window w/ the wood chisel, and then with the side cutters. My window was well above ground level outside too.
Thanks, you did a good job in repairing, explaining, & showing the cause of the problem. As you stated, Andersen needs to fix this because it's so common with their windows. If the gear chips causes this, why doesn't Andersen just offer a gear replacement? It would be an even simpler fix. Again, nice video!
Just need a quick fix for now, can u explain how to use the screw option to hold it in place short term. What size screw and where exactly to put it in. Thanks
Thanks so much. I have to replace one that I replaced around when you made this video. Broke already. Hardly was used .... The first replaced one that was 30 years old. Second one lasted less than 2 yrs. Ugh. And two others I replaced then are already starting to get hard to open.
Thanks for this video, was able to replace the operator and get the window to work perfectly however I manhandled the sill stop and saw it was nailed down 4-5 times and I couldn’t find my crowbar or putty knife so I ended up ripping the whole thing out and the sill cracked in half... lol. Is home depot a good place to get a replacement? Or should I just use wood glue and glue the two pieces back together?
Thank you! I appreciate it. Do the bottom casement sill stops come in different sizes depending on the window or are they universal? Cause if its one size fit all, i’ll order a new one with your link. My anderson window is from 2007.
I have an old style cover around 1974-1979 with no screws, similar to the one in your video, and cannot find any information on how to take the cover off. I believe it is Casement Operator Cover part #0532608. Spoke to two Andersen reps, both of which said it should pull right off and one of them said the casing may be holding it on. I stated it rocks left and right and there is no paint holding it in. Seems like the center is held in somehow causing not to slip off the shaft. Tried pulling it off by hand, using a screw driver, clamp to get a good grip and small pry bar. It's not coming off. Any suggestions?
As you said the threads completely broke off on my window operator and the crank won’t catch at all. I can’t get the window open to replace the part. There is nothing for pliers to hold onto to try to manually crank it open. Can I force the window open? I don’t see another way… thanks!
thanks for sharing. but i have to say how bad the design of this kind of lock. i hate the truth when you do the replacement, you have to break something! truly hate this design
great windows but i totally agree, these are some of the best windows but this part could of been designed a lot better. The good news is the crank and crank parts are high quality so it will last a long time. These windows are here since 1984 and in great shape. Great comment though. Thanks and subscribe for more videos.
Da P.A my window crank just stopped working so thank you for the instructions. I just ordered the replacement part. I’m nervous about removing the wood trim at the bottom, hopefully I don’t destroy it 😬
I replaced it and it’s working perfectly! The split arm operator I ordered came with a “sash bracket” (the piece connected to the window.) Since I didn’t see a need to replace it I kept the old one on. Thanks again!
The hand cranks are way too expensive, clumsy and designed to break. At home depot they cost around $60CAD. These things are mass produced and should cost $15 maximum. Also they are so easy to break. What, metal is low/cheap quality, design is bad and cost too much. Also, they are left,right, short, long. HD has usually only one type and there is no way to find right one. Where should I be looking for them? I need to replace at least 2.
Andersen! Very expensive but good windows. But the mechanics of the window is garbage. Made to break and have you replace which means more money for them...
I have a problem where a handle wont hold on the crank stem. Every time I try to open the window the handle slips out. I replaced the handle, same problem. Any suggestion?
There is no such thing as a flathead screwdriver!!! Screwdrivers fit round head screws pan head screws and Flathead screws but there is no such thing as a flathead screwdriver! Screws themselves come in a variety whether it's straight blade, Phillips, head torx, or any other configuration! They do not and never have made screwdrivers with a flathead!!! Screwdrivers come in various different drive types for different types of screws that most screwdrivers are either straight blade, or Philips, or torx, or something similar, but nobody makes a flat head screwdriver there's no such thing!!!! If you were talking about a flat blade or straight blade screwdriver then specify that! A flat head screw driver would have a flat vertical cut-off end that we totally useless for anything except as a flat end punch!!! And would not be a screwdriver in any sense of the word whatsoever!
Thank you for watching this video. the first thing to do is identify the window model/year then you can get the split arm on Amazon at, amzn.to/2H2IV53. Make sure you get the correct one. You will need to look from the outside to see which way the window opens and not from the inside. There is a left or right split arm. Note that you will need to salvage the old handle as the split arm kit does not come with the handle. You can also get the handle on amazon, amzn.to/2H0LIvx. Also note these parts listed are for windows from 1982 to 1995. You will need to determine the model and when your windows were installed to figure out the correct parts. Note the the bottom wood piece can break, that piece is called the bottom casement sill stop, Part #: 1352406.Andersen's site has more info, parts.andersenwindows.com/detail_1352406__w_casement_stops.html?item=1352406&category=w_casement_stops
Amazon 30 day FREE Trial - amzn.to/2ItA9Ar
If this has been helpful please subscribe to me channel.
bruh where can I just buy the corkscrew? Im not replacing the whole thing.
Wrong. Stop reiterating this. Thanks.
I also want to thank you for the video - I am in a rental and prefer not to have to have my landlord fix every little thing - house is 100 years old - bought the parts (even the extra white cover) and was done in 20 minutes. My main worry was the lower wood panel - thinking that more than the bottom piece of the frame would have to be removed - but looked closer at your video and went to it. They didn't even nail the panel down - it was nailed down some years past - the holes were there. I used my trusty Gorilla glue to replace it and it now works like a charm. Looks great too. My wife will finish up with some white silicone to cover the seam and you won't be able to tell it was replaced. Took pictures of the process for the record and kept receipts. Thanks again!
Great to hear this helped you. The landlord is lucky.
I watch a lot of DIY videos. Oftentimes I'm left scratching my head.
Great tutorial , thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, glad it helped.
our HOA handyman window repair guy has been busting my balls about having to replace this bit and how the whole window frame needs to come out and blah blah won't do it for free ($280/mo HOA fees...).
I bought this part and replaced it in minutes after watching this video. Thanks man!
Was able to replace the operator on my Andersen casement window thanks to this video. The worst part was paying $72 for the part but it's better than a new window or even paying someone to do it for me. The sill stop came out pretty easy for me after I scored it with a utility knife. It was only secured with two brad nails on the edges, so mine fortunately didn't crack or break. I was able to just replace the operator and put the sill back in place after without having to paint. Ran some caulking to blend it back in and it looks just like it did before. Anyway, thanks again, I really appreciated this video.
Awesome
You are the only one to mention the perspective to use when selecting right or left operating arm. Almost ordered a right. Confirmed on Andersen. Thanks
Thats important ;)
This was one of the most helpful DIY videos. Was easy peasy and saved me a ton of money, thank you. I can finally open my kitchen window. Subscribed!
Thank you for subscribing and the kind words.
Your the only one I seen that said. How to pick out the right or left side. Thank you.
So, totally followed this advice - especially the part where you said “make sure you look at the window from the outside.” I triple checked. Bought one for the left, since from the inside it opened to the right, and outside it opened to the left. Wrong.
The left one would only open to the left when I installed it with the crank on the inside of the house (where it belongs) and it wouldn’t connect to the window. I had to go back and return it and switch it out for a right hand one. And it worked perfectly in the window - that opens to the left on the outside and the right from the inside.
Thanks for the great video. I also saw a guy secure the corkscrew cylinder with a set screw and hammering the metal around it.
Good illustration, but a few suggestions. First, if you open and release the window first, you can pry it up from the outside (I prefer a sharp 1" wood chisel, bevel side down, so that it gives you the leverage to pry up. That way, you don't mar the inside at all. As soon as you locate the two nails, pry right next to them alternately, keeping the trim piece level, to prevent splitting or cracking it. Only pry it high enough to get a side cutter in (once again from the outside) and clip the nails as close to the bottom as possible, then gently pull the wood piece straight out, w/ the remainder of the nails in it. The nails I've encountered were in at angle, so the higher you pry the greater the risk of splitting the piece. Very easy to tap down the remainder of the clipped nails into the base and cut the rest of the nails off flush from the trim piece, rather than pulling them out w/ a pliers. That way, you don't leave a big hole to patch and again reduce the risk of cracking the wood. Be sure to predrill the holes for the replacement brads, smaller than the brad head diameter. Use a little soap on the ends of the piece when you replace it so that it goes in easier.
Good points. This was done on a second floor window so a little tricky
@@daP.A I didn't mean you had to be outside to do the work. I just reached through the open window w/ the wood chisel, and then with the side cutters. My window was well above ground level outside too.
Pretty good video, but do you think maybe you should have tested it before you siliconed and nailed down your trim piece?
yeah you should test it, i did test it just didn't film it.
Thanks, you did a good job in repairing, explaining, & showing the cause of the problem. As you stated, Andersen needs to fix this because it's so common with their windows. If the gear chips causes this, why doesn't Andersen just offer a gear replacement? It would be an even simpler fix. Again, nice video!
Agreed
I think this is business only😢
Thank you so much for the video! I followed your steps and now we can open and close our window again.
Thanks for the comment, happy you got it working. Please consider subscribing for more videos
Just need a quick fix for now, can u explain how to use the screw option to hold it in place short term. What size screw and where exactly to put it in. Thanks
Worked very well, good video!
Thanks so much. I have to replace one that I replaced around when you made this video. Broke already. Hardly was used .... The first replaced one that was 30 years old. Second one lasted less than 2 yrs. Ugh. And two others I replaced then are already starting to get hard to open.
Thanks for this video, was able to replace the operator and get the window to work perfectly however I manhandled the sill stop and saw it was nailed down 4-5 times and I couldn’t find my crowbar or putty knife so I ended up ripping the whole thing out and the sill cracked in half... lol. Is home depot a good place to get a replacement? Or should I just use wood glue and glue the two pieces back together?
wood glue, or look in the description for that part number.
Thank you! I appreciate it. Do the bottom casement sill stops come in different sizes depending on the window or are they universal? Cause if its one size fit all, i’ll order a new one with your link. My anderson window is from 2007.
Great job on this video
Our cranks wont crank we cant turn them is this what we should do? Replace them entirely or someone said put some spray of some sort thank u
I have an old style cover around 1974-1979 with no screws, similar to the one in your video, and cannot find any information on how to take the cover off. I believe it is Casement Operator Cover part #0532608. Spoke to two Andersen reps, both of which said it should pull right off and one of them said the casing may be holding it on. I stated it rocks left and right and there is no paint holding it in. Seems like the center is held in somehow causing not to slip off the shaft. Tried pulling it off by hand, using a screw driver, clamp to get a good grip and small pry bar. It's not coming off. Any suggestions?
Great video tutorial. Good explanations. Thank you.
what is that piece of wood called that cracked when you first started. my used windows didn't come with that and i also need some side pieces too
Thnx for this video- wish me luck!
Really nice video thanks
glad it helped you.
Thank you.
What did you use to lube the arm?
Great video. I'm gonna give this a try next weekend.
Silicone lubricant amzn.to/3hC5JZS theres cheaper options on Amazon. Good luck.
Thanks for the video. Great tips. Will be doing this soon at out new place. 👍
Np
After following this video precisely and installing a new arm, the window won’t close all the way. What did I do wrong?
this helped me thank you.
How much do you charge to replace a crank? I’m in Illinois and have a customer that wants some replaced. Thanks! Good video!
I don't charge anything, have them watch this video, it's easy to do
As you said the threads completely broke off on my window operator and the crank won’t catch at all. I can’t get the window open to replace the part. There is nothing for pliers to hold onto to try to manually crank it open. Can I force the window open? I don’t see another way… thanks!
First remove the handle completely before opening the window
How can I locate the model/year info?
I can’t remove my casing behind the crank It’s got a set screw. Removed that and crank arm handle came out but cannot get that plastic casing out
What if it’s a plastic window? Am I going to destroy the whole window trying to take the small piece out at the bottom?
look up the modem and you can probably get a replacement
great video. thx u much. cld
u pls enclose the window operator name& model no. Where to buy from?
look in the description.
@@daP.A Saw that late. thx you.
thanks for sharing. but i have to say how bad the design of this kind of lock. i hate the truth when you do the replacement, you have to break something! truly hate this design
great windows but i totally agree, these are some of the best windows but this part could of been designed a lot better. The good news is the crank and crank parts are high quality so it will last a long time. These windows are here since 1984 and in great shape. Great comment though. Thanks and subscribe for more videos.
Gostei de ver fizeste um bom trabalho na janela bjs
Lovely accent. New Jersey?
Northeast, so near nj
Da P.A my window crank just stopped working so thank you for the instructions. I just ordered the replacement part. I’m nervous about removing the wood trim at the bottom, hopefully I don’t destroy it 😬
@@lauraly26 you got it, it's easy pry it slowly
I replaced it and it’s working perfectly! The split arm operator I ordered came with a “sash bracket” (the piece connected to the window.) Since I didn’t see a need to replace it I kept the old one on. Thanks again!
Bom trabalho gostei de ver bjs
Lovely accent.
I hate these windows I thought I could just change it without doing all this work smh
It's a a stupid design but not too difficult
@@daP.A I agree the crank on my window is nothing like the ones at home depot or in this video it seems like I'll have to order it online smh
Now I don't have to call the Anderson guy.
The hand cranks are way too expensive, clumsy and designed to break. At home depot they cost around $60CAD. These things are mass produced and should cost $15 maximum. Also they are so easy to break. What, metal is low/cheap quality, design is bad and cost too much. Also, they are left,right, short, long. HD has usually only one type and there is no way to find right one. Where should I be looking for them? I need to replace at least 2.
You can get them online look under description for the link
New yok accent
Andersen! Very expensive but good windows. But the mechanics of the window is garbage. Made to break and have you replace which means more money for them...
Agree with everything you said.
I have a problem where a handle wont hold on the crank stem. Every time I try to open the window the handle slips out. I replaced the handle, same problem. Any suggestion?
8
They're made to fail...
They are actually made well, it's just over the years they wear off.
There is no such thing as a flathead screwdriver!!!
Screwdrivers fit round head screws pan head screws and Flathead screws but there is no such thing as a flathead screwdriver!
Screws themselves come in a variety whether it's straight blade, Phillips, head torx, or any other configuration!
They do not and never have made screwdrivers with a flathead!!!
Screwdrivers come in various different drive types for different types of screws that most screwdrivers are either straight blade, or Philips, or torx, or something similar, but nobody makes a flat head screwdriver there's no such thing!!!!
If you were talking about a flat blade or straight blade screwdriver then specify that!
A flat head screw driver would have a flat vertical cut-off end that we totally useless for anything except as a flat end punch!!! And would not be a screwdriver in any sense of the word whatsoever!
Wow... Ok 👌 hope you got your window fixed 🤣
Worst window design ever
Lasts a long time though
Not really. Takes ten minutes.
Generally good video. However, why so you always say ‘go ahead’? Those words are redundant. Not needed, repetitive, poor English.
Why is your sentence not grammatically correct?
seriously? just move on!
You must be miserable he did a good job, stop trolling
Thank you