I just checked the valvoline maxlife website - it does indeed meet all the 'matic' nissan specs and is good to go in your trans - www.valvoline.com/our-products/automatic-transmission-products/maxlife-multi-vehicle-atf click PI sheet to confirm
Well thanks Joseph because that’s awesome . Honestly I’m pretty sure I used Maxi life in mine. I just didn’t say that in the video because people will start arguing with you. (Me) somebody like you says it it’s all good because I don’t have to worry about the fallout. Super sweet I appreciate the info and I’m sure everybody else will have a great day thanks for sharing the info with us
@@sharpcarco outstanding video! I have a hard 1-2 shift in my Xterra right now and I'm pretty sure this is the issue. Your video has helped me prep tremendously. I'm like you, cheap and working class poor. Subed and liked, again, thank you - it means a lot to me and my family.
I had an 05 Xterra with a problem with a broken pin on the TCM. Had a Front Brake Solenoid code 1757. The vehicle was stuck in limp mode (3rd gear I think). Limp mode is designed to protect the transmission from further damage that could be caused. Re-soldered the pin and was back in business. A word of advice, when you're re-soldering the pin, reinforce the break with a piece of wire... don't just rely on the solder material to hold. My first attempt failed after a couple of months. The reinforced fix seems to be holding up after a year.
The best tutorial video I've ever seen it wasn't to long because you covered everything I needed to know in one very easy to follow video I will mention it pays to check the speed sensor Keep up the good work and God Bless Thank you
Doing exactly what you did. Had moisture in that circuit board, hopping this does the fix when I put her together. Thanks for making a video I'm sure you've help many other people out !
At 21:30 into the video that solenoid is called the Low Coast Brake Solenoid. There are 2 different versions of this solenoid which depend on your year model. 2000 to 2004 it will be the low ohm version. 2005 and up it will be the high ohm version. You HAVE to put the correct one in your valve body.
That is awesome. I am so glad that this video still helping folks I appreciate you taking the time to write the message. It really does make me very very happy. God bless welcome to the channel. Happy to have you.
What did you use to clean the valve body? I see someone posted to use brake cleaner. Did you use a soft brush when cleaning the contacts? Did it help clean up the old silicone? Why didn't you show any of the valve body cleaning?! That would have helped so much. Any particular order to installing the new solenoids? Are the new solenoids interchangeable (or are they labelled out of the package)? Again, why did you not show installing the solenoids? I'm okay with the video length as I want/need to see everything (I'm tired of working on things in the yard only to find out that the video left very important things out). After all those questions - it is a really good video and will help immensely.
Well I certainly tried to cover as much as I could. I like to think even though that video is not that old I probably would’ve made it different now than what I made it then. This was the first time I tried to ever did anything like this. It did end up working excellent. But because of that reason I was unsure that it was going to even work or that anyone would ever see it. The solenoids are not interchangeable if I remember correctly there are three different types of solenoids in there. Depending on which style of ohm solenoid you have With the variance of what’s called a high ohm solenoid. Or a low ohms solenoid. You will need to call the dealership with your Vin number to determine which style of solenoid you have unless you can test them on the bench like I did (this required me to watch TH-cam videos on how to OHM them out Meaning that the valve bodies are different some valve bodies are low ohms some valve bodies carry the high ohm set of solenoids First you need to determine if yours is the high ohms set or yours is the low ohms set. Now in the video I think I did describe the different styles of solenoids. And once you start disassembling this most of your questions will be answered easily by yourself. I understand where you’re coming from but generally a job like this takes quite a bit of mechanical aptitude and most people think they need to see everything before they take it apart but they will not understand what I’m talking about until they start doing the job. I did use brake cleaner to clean it up it’s very common. I did remove all the silicone. And I also replaced it with a comparable product just any simple red silicone is fine. The solenoids are not marked. Because like I said this does require a higher level of just looking at stuff and using common sense. I do believe anybody could do this if they try. As far as the reasons that I didn’t show a lot of the other things because they did not work out the way that I wanted them to and I would be doing more harm than good. The only thing that may be a problem for you or anyone else that I did not describe in the video is going to be getting the solenoids out of the valve body generally they break off and they Will require a little bit of tenacity. Meaning that you’re going to have to sit there with the pic in a little screwdriver and take out the plastic parts that break off on the end. Down inside the holes. I hope all of that information is helpful for you and I want to add one little bit What do you have right now? I’m assuming something that’s broken. What’s the worst case scenario if you try to do this job? Something that still broken. I can’t guarantee this is going to fix your problem but I can tell you that it definitely fixed mine. And even doing the work myself between fluids and parts I probably still had at least $300 into doing this. And in the end it could’ve been all pissed out the window. But because I stepped up to the table and played the game I actually won. In my videos I generally do things like this cheaper and save money for myself because I think about what I have before I start. With all of that said I don’t know that my mechanical expertise or knowledge helps me all that much because generally it just boils down to common sense and that’s how I’m able to do the repairs that I do even when I’ve never done them before or have no previous knowledge of doing them. I look at stuff I think about the way it works and I take it apart and try to figure out how it worked before I put it back in there I think that that’s why I’m successful most of the time more so than my past knowledge of working on cars because most of the stuff I make TH-cam videos on I’ve never done before. I hope the message is it too long and you can understand it God bless I wish you the best of luck with your job.
Hey! Thank you very much for the video. I have a 2005 paty with this transmission. Transmission was flooded surely but before I got the car. The transmission runs perfectly in P, R, 1st and skips 2nd and 3rd and only after 40km/h steps into 4th. I changed the solenoids and cleaned the tcm but I have the same problem… no error on tester… any help pls?
Well that’s one of my longer videos and I thought I was really onto something it was not very well planned out but I think the information was good like you said so thank you for the kind words and I do try to work on getting better with my videos
Yeah that transmission conductor plate looks very similar to my mercedes one. I ditched it and bought a new one on e bay BAPA brand. around 80.00$inc gasket, filter Also, same as you did the valv atf. Ive kept it in though, its been a year, no more limp mode. Now dealing with a no reverse xterra uggghh
I’m sure you are correct but I was worried about the little bb’s falling out of the pathways. Thanks for letting us know a couple people of asked the same thing
Yep, this is the only way to save them (split and open). I used a hammer and a #10 Robinson screwdriver; fits perfect and only one or two light punches to pop them out. Great vid, thx.
With a pic to and a lot of care it was hard as heck to get that sucker out but just keep working around with it. Remember that there’s a nipple at the bottom of it that’s actually holding it.
I replaced a solenoid and disconnected circuit board to look for any broken parts (it had none) put it back in and now it won’t go into gear at all. Does it need to be reprogrammed? Pathfinder 2010 was shifting perfectly but it had a Low Coast solenoid valve coad P1774 thanks
I have 2004 xterra 70k miles it wont move at all i checked the linkage and it was good although i shouldn't check the linkage because the car can go in neutral , now i think it has internal problem , my question is what possibly can be the problem i heard that cleaning the valve body and filter can fix the problem considering that the car is low miles and tourqe converter wont fail now .
Hey great video i have an 08 frontier that has started shifting hard im going to try the flush and clean the valve body and see if it changes anything. Thanks for the great info.
I also have an 08 pathfinder. It could also be the radiator leaking some fluid into the trans and causing the valve body to short circuit... That might be the cause for most of these problems, like in this video.
Felipe Ruiz. Good morning I don’t know why you would have to do that if it has the same ohm solenoids in it. 🤷🏻♂️ so I don’t know why you would because there’s no computer chips inside the valve body it’s just pathways for circuits to run and send power. Too solenoids.... just keep in mind I’m no expert. I could see where the memory would have to be flashed on the TCM controller because it would be set a certain way but I would also think that after about five or six times of driving it it would reset itself to the new driving conditions that the solenoids and Valve body control module would affect
I needed to see you break those solenoids off if you broke it chances are someone else is not me but someone... thats my only issue is them solenoids are stuck i think u can use compressed air to pop them out ill figure it out
Which solenoid was the TCC solenoid? I can match any numbers and the names don’t match on any image. There is an input and a direct clutch control in the photo I found. But my part is called TCC (in the manual) or TCS (at the auto parts store)
Maybe you said but what was popping up on scanners? Mine ms saying front right brake solenoid code 0P1759 it’s a Nissan Pathfinder, pretty sure it’s casing other codes to also pop up. It’s not shifting hard, but more so low power, almost like a misfire
Watched just to see how the other side of the valve body looks like. Here’s the problem I ran into; I was doing a routine service, and I’ve never serviced a Nissan transmission before so I bought the ATF and what I thought was a filter, but happened to be it’s just a screen. I said might as well change it so I started to remove the bolts holding the screen noticing some are longer than others like a typical valve body. Then I noticed the 3 that are held by nuts instead of bolts. I removed them just to notice what I thought was a solid stud, now feels like a regular bolt. Of course the head of that bolt is inside the valve body. You ever ran into this? Is there a way to get those right without having to remove the valve body?
Good evening sorry to hear that but I think I have a simple solution it may not seem simple for you but it truly is I promise if anyone else can do it you can do it to! I am not a super Nissan technician nor do I know a lot about these. But from my experience you’re better off just removing the valve body like I showed you in the video and then you’ll be able to remove the stud and replace it it really was not that difficult to remove the valve body. I hope that information is helpful for you Juan and I wish you the best of luck.
The Clay Way thank you for the prompt reply. I managed to get those right without removing the valve body. I hand tighten the nuts until they were flush with the screen, then very carefully I pinched the end of the bolt with a pair of needle nose pliers and a rag in between the bolt and pliers to keep it from damaging the threads, as I tightened the nut with an open end wrench. I then hoped it was tight enough to bite I then set my torque wrench to 70in.lbs and hoped for the best, and sure enough they torqued to spec! I didn’t want to unbolt the valve body because I don’t want to deal with broken solenoids and all the that’s related with removing that stuff on a truck that was promised to be done in a few hours.
You said yours was shifting hard mine shifting good we it pull,s you get on it sometimes it will pull then sometimes it will not pull in forward but will go in reverse. Think changing the fluid will fix the problem it beats the 5500.00 the shop wants for a transmission
More than likely it won’t help Dale but it’s like you say I think about it the same way you can’t break was already broken in this situation so doing something is better than doing nothing
My 2001 4x4 has been flushed 2 times and is working fine at 190,000 miles and I think I’ll let the Valvoline quick change do a fluid change pan only and transfer case and differential
Hi clay.. i have an xterra 2010 had an issue few days back.. I was driving a long drive in the highway continously till i arrived at a stop light.. then ran again for 1 mile then suddenly i was like running in a neutral and engages but runs real slow. I left my truck and came the next day. And put it in drive catches in drive and reverse. Put it back in neutral and reverse and it not engaging. Went back with a obd and found p1731 e break. Mechanics advised its burnt out clutch plates. Checked the oil but not smell or brownish color. Need your second opinion on this. Thanks.
Hey thank you for the video I think it will be most helpful I'm having a breaking and first gear problem so from what I've read in my hands book 99 videos I have a solenoid or one of those connectors in there but thanks again for the view of how it all looks it just shed some light for me thank you
No problem I’m very glad that I made this video and it turned out excellent for me I think it will help and I think it has helped thousands of people I’ve had lots of people message me and tell me that they were able to fix theirs using this video so that’s so awesome to hear I hope it will help you as well and worst case scenario you’re out $200 but you didn’t spend two or three grand on a transmission without trying to fix something first…. Welcome to the channel we’re very happy to have you
Hi I have 2000nissan Xterra and it's pulling hard in second gear n won't shift. Now it's making a loud noise n has a hard kick back under the truck. I bought the truck this year in March 11, 2019 as is but didn't have any problems until month n a half after I bought it.
Thanks for making this video.. This video definitely gave me hope.. We were close to just donating the vehicle.. but I will tackle the job and I have a pretty good feeling this will solve the issue im having with my Pathfinder.. Aloha and God Bless..
I mentioned in the video that I can see the clutches once the valve body is out and my clutches were not bad in your situation your clutch plates are probably wore down, I’m sorry to hear that but you should give yourself an A for effort. A lot of folks just look at the video and don’t even try it so pat yourself on the back for at least trying it
@@josephturnage7841 It didnt work actually.. but i did see a break in the circuit of the valve body.. so i went and purchased a reman valve body on ebay.. ill let u know if it works..
Well doing this procedure in the video will be much cheaper than trying to find a good used transmission or having your transmission rebuilt. This procedure is going to cost you about $100 with fluid maybe 200. So getting a used transmission is probably gonna cost 1500 to 2500 and about the same for a rebuilt one . If you’re a gambler like me it’s probably not a bad idea to try this out and at the very least you know you have a good transmission control module. I would also add if you only are missing reverse. More than likely it’s your control module because if I remember correctly and (I’m not a transmission technician) first gear and reverse gear are the same gear. Maybe you should give it a go and let us know how it went
Yes it is ... if I remember right . There are 2 Different types of solenoids that go on each board some of them are low ohm’s and some of them are high ohm’s . One style board uses the low ohm’s board and the other style is the high OHMS Mine in the video was the high style. In each board there are three different types of solenoids I don’t remember them all distinctly but I do point them out in the video. They have to be in order and in the correct position. You will have to review the video once more and pay particular attention I know it’s sometimes hard because I run my mouth quite a bit. I am continuingly trying to make my videos better and not get off of point. But it is a work in progress says please bear with me while I learn how to teach other people. This was the very first time I did this procedure and I was very successful. Hopefully that answers your question and helps you a little bit
I have a nissan pathfinder 2009. I have hitachi computer can you put the bosh one ? And i wanted to knoe do you have to program it mine burnt completely and i have problems looking for the original one i just wanna knoe those ?? Thank you
I don’t know the answer to that question if it plugs in the same way and if it uses the same ohm. Solenoids I don’t see any reason it wouldn’t work but honestly I’m no expert.
Hello.. I did a transmission flush on my 06 xterra automatic and added Lucas transmission fluid. It work wonders. Also flush the radiator. I bypass both of them. Drove it and Weeks later , now I'm having no crank start, so I did a bypass on the starter and it crank. These are the things I did.... 1. Ignition switch work with my light test. 2. Bench test starter, it work. 3. All fuses are good. But dont know about relays fuses. I've moved them around and no go. 4. My first code was for a natural switch that I can't find. Which I think the xterra dont have. 5. When bypass the starter, drove to Advance Auto for the second code and gave me a code of U1000. So I'm stuck! All this started with the transmission and radiator fluids being bad. Any help on how to crank my vehicle? Does the value body has something to with no crank?
U1000 is the code that most automobile manufacturers send out when the automobile is being scanned . If I remember correctly it has nothing to do with anything . Because you said the word Nissan I highly recommend that you check the connection on the battery post positive side there is a fuse that blows . It’s not a part of the normal fuses you need to check that fuse for continuity it is connected right near the main positive battery post. I’m glad that you had great success with flushing your radiator etc. etc. But that probably doesn’t have anything to do with what’s going on now . If that fuse is not blown take both battery cables off of the battery take a zip tie and tie them together for 30 minutes . Replace the battery cables this will reflash the ECM’s inside the car and then we can see if it will start . That’s all I can come up with off the top my head for right now but let us know how it goes I wish you the best of luck thank you very much .
@@sharpcarco thank you for your reply so quick. I've check that positive battery fuse for continuity. But when I get home this after noon, I'll double check it all and clean. I'll get back to you after.. ty again
@@sharpcarco so I did what you ask for me to do. The fuses are good and cleaned on the positive terminal as well the negative. No Start. Still everything comes on but no crank. Is there a switch in the body value? Cause I got a engine start button installed from the starter and a orange wire (next to ignition) (bypass) and it crank with that but the more I use it, it get weaker to crank. I have no clue what else to do. Which I knew where the netural switch is located if it has one. TY for your time.
dne2007 Oh!!!!!! I feel like the scientist from back to the future just hit my head on the back of the toilet and had a thought....... Hold the key in the start position. Just like you’re trying to start it..... put your foot on the break and move the shifter through the gears and see if it ever tries to start while you’re moving the shifter remember to keep holding it in the start position then that will tell you that the neutral safety switch is went defective. Literally there is a 19-year-old that is telling me about the same exact problem he did the exact same thing you did I was just talking to him three minutes ago.... Man I hope that works I will feel totally awesome if it does and it makes sense your neutral safety switch is more than likely bad
@@sharpcarco good morning. I played with the xterra last night with my test light and there's no light coming out the trigger wire. So, it's a bad connection somewhere. Gonna try your steps from the 19 yr old and try to look more further in the wire harness and box relay. I'll let you know tonight what happens. Learning more and more playing with Nissan. Lol
I'm sorry to ask again but in the video that I watched for a while the video slowed down and I couldn't understand what was being said on which silinoid controls the the overdrive.the rest of the video was awesome and it helped me the other time I found the copper finger broke and my transmission went into limp mode. Thank you for the help.
I have a 2007 Xterra 4WD. It’s throwing solenoid codes and oddly enough a starter code (P0850, P0615 and P1772). About 3 months ago, I was thrown into limp mode and was told SMOD but it only acted that way once. The ignition thing has me stumped as I have never had a problem starting it. The car is running fine now except I have no cruise control. The cruise light will pop on but it will never engage. The SES light is on and I had someone put a code reader on it and got those. Any idea what’s going on?
Hello Sir, Great job, I will do the same job coming up,Thank you for the input Specially on the bolt removal! Do you have a pic on bolt removal by any chance. thank you.
what kind of parts cleaner did you use on the board to get the gunk out of it? thinking about trying this. a lady up the street has an terra for sale that has been sitting for months. asked her about it and she says the transmission was acting up, lights coming on and the car bucks if you try to drive it. she want to sell it, I may buy it for a 4x4 toy.
I used to pick Tool and took the rest of the broken parts out of the solenoid holders I’m pretty sure every one of them was made of aluminum so you shouldn’t have too much to worry about just be careful try to do it when it’s upside down if you can
The Clay Way The pick was the first attempt and no success, but I had luck drilling a small hole next to the metal sleeve and put a screw to pull it out! Thank man for the quick reply! I replaced the tcm and solenoids, and now the suv doesn’t engage in 1st gear only all the rest go threw, it takes time to get going!
I will also say that I’m so solenoids come as a set. And I’m fairly certain all you do is take the multi meter and send it to ohms there’s only three settings it’s either the first or second setting. And that will tell you what ohm Solenoid you have by testing the other solenoids. Hopefully that helps out and I’m certain you will get it though you don’t sound like you just landed on your head when you were born LOL I wish you the best of luck if I can help I certainly will try
Can someone here help me diagnose my vehicle. I am contemplating on replacing the whole transmission but i dont want to commit into a repair that may only cost to replace just a valve body. I have a 2005 nissan pathfinder v6 5 speed automatic. How the problem started: the problem started when a friend of mine tried parking backwards at a pretty steep hill and of course he let go of the brakes so it moved forward and he pressed on the gas fearing it might roll in to the ditch, the car jerked up the hill in reverse pretty hard. The reverse issue got worse over the days . I had no other choice as we were out camping in a pretty unknow place. I did a trans flush at a place near our camp but didnt fixe the issue. The reverse issue got worse now, before it took 2.5k-3k rpm until the reverse catches and engages now it takes 4-5k rpm till it catches. There are no codes showing, i drove the vehicle about 500km back home and it had no issues driving. It was just the reverse. Being the problem. I also noticed that when i use reverse when the car is cold, the reverse engages at lower rpm although its still higher than normal. The transmission oil is still red and i did smell it when i arrived home and it didnt smell burnt or anything, the car also drived pretty well when i was driving that 500km back. Another thing i notice is that when i am manualy shifting from 2 to 1, it doesnt go to 1? I am just hoping someone could help me diagnose the problem. I tried reseting the tcm by removing the battery for 20-30min and it didnt fix it. The only thing I think that vould be the problem is the valve body or worn down clutch packs. I was thinking of the valve body as the problem more as the transmission oil does smell burnt and looks ok but im also thinking that a vode would show up if there was something wrong with the valve body. If anyone can help me diagnose this please let me know. You can ask me any questions you like about the car. No fault codes on the transmission when scanned, was wondering if it will show any fault codes when a solenoid fails
SO i have a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder Ive replaced the Transmision Valve body which cleared all the codes. But i do keep getting the P1710 Code which is the Transmission Temputature Control sensor, Does anyone know where i can find this part? Ive looked everywhere including Nissan and everything they claim that goes for this truck is not compatable. THe truck Runs great till it throws this code and it goes right into limp mode till i clear the code then it goes back to driving fine. ANy help would be appreciated!!
I liked the Funky Heavy sound effects at the 20:30 min mark on this video. Sounds demonic with breath on your neck type affect. Otherwise a good video for what seems like a chronic problem with Nissan type ATF cooling engineering.
Well I’m very sorry to hear that is it possibly your plug holding it up in there? At the top where it is also possible that you did miss one of the bolts. At least that’s what I would have to think if it’s not dropping down for you. Just take your time be patient take another look at it and I’m certain he will figure it out remember “ if anyone else can do it you can do it to” God bless have a great day
Great video, huge help! 19yo working on my first car by myself and i just need a little extra help. I got a 07 Xterra that had the "Strawberry Milkshake of Death" a few weeks back. I flushed the system and replaced the rad and it's been running fine until last night. It blew the trans fuse and now it doesn't start. I did everything you did in the video and before I try to start it again I just wanted to know if you think their could be any other problems that could cause the fuse to blow? Also what kind of silicone did you use to cover up all the components? Thanks!
Hey Parker I appreciate the kind words very much and I’m glad to hear that the video was helpful for you. That’s crazy that you say that I just had a Nother person mentioned the same exact problem earlier this week I don’t know what’s going on and I’m sorry I can’t be of any help there but I will try to get to the bottom of it if I ever come across this problem in the shop. More than likely there is some kind of thread somewhere on a Nissan blog have a good one I wish you the best of luck
@@sharpcarco Thanks a ton! I'm gonna finish up this repair and hope it works, I'll come back in a day or so to let you know how it all worked out in-case you get something similar in the shop!
Parker Roberts Films dne2007 Oh!!!!!! I feel like the scientist from back to the future just hit my head on the back of the toilet and had a thought....... Hold the key in the start position. Just like you’re trying to start it..... put your foot on the break and move the shifter through the gears and see if it ever tries to start while you’re moving the shifter remember to keep holding it in the start position then that will tell you that the neutral safety switch is went defective. Man I hope I’m right I will feel awesome
Parker Roberts Films There’s also another kid on here that has the exact same problem as you I think the two of you should talk about it he is down here in the comments and then maybe when one of you figures out what it is you can share with the other one
Hi good job awesome want to know how to test selenoid I got on live data selenoid 12456 selenoid 2 not coming on and iam getting hard shifting some time from 1 gear to gear 2 so can you show me how to test it and you didn't show us how did you remove it from transmission valve body and will flush solve my problem, taking 8n mind ive drained and filled about 20000 mile
Well during my research of doing these I found That a lot of the time the Metal circuitry that runs underneath there ends up breaking as far as testing them I don’t really know I can’t remember I know there’s only two different styles on low ohm’s and a high ohm’s And I’m pretty sure I diagnosed that with just my multi meter or I called up the dealership and gave them my Vin number and they told me I honestly can’t remember
Also there was video showing people how to test them and I was probably not very confident about the way I tested it and that’s more than likely the reason that I did not show it in the video. There was certainly a reason behind it I just don’t remember what it was. I give out good information when I’m confident but if you watch the video you also know that that was the very first time I did it but you may also find out that I’m the only person in the world to ever do it at least at that time I was maybe there’s a better video for you to watch
@@sharpcarco thanks a lot cause really I don't know what causes that it suddenly happen and live data showing that selenoid doesn't turn on that's why I think it's selenoid, thinking of I cleaned valve body itll work cause I don't know how is it good or bad cause oil was dirty and oil pan so I've just changed oil cleaned oil pan and it was ok after that until now a days, if I saw your video, before that time definitely I'll dissasemble it like you but my doubts now on selenoid I'll check my altima live data for transmission and see if it's my autel md805 problem I'll check with my friend mk808 if it same ill go for selenoid may be its the gallery but have to check Here is my video it's in diffrent languge but it shows the condition of the oil and filter and that's why I didn't change filter or at least cleaned it th-cam.com/video/P6SDrBdLU9c/w-d-xo.html
I followed the steps in your video because I was getting a slip when shifting from 4th to 5th. That issue is addressed, but I am not experiencing some sort of slip/kick when doing rapid acceleration from a stop. I don’t think it’s the clutch because I didn’t have this issue before. I put it on a scanner and I got the code P1731 automatic transmission first braking. Any ideas on what I should do now? Thank you.
Hey man I got a problem with my 2006 Nissan Frontier I can drive it around and all of a sudden it makes a pop sound and it’s like it goes into neutral I can turn the truck off and turn it back on put back in gear and it will go for a couple hundred yards and just all sudden it’s like it goes back into neutral! Any ideas what it could be?
That definitely sounds like a Vavle body issue. But I’m not a transmission expert. I do know if you take the valve body out like I did in the video you can always put it back together the same way it was and you may be able to fix the problem at next to no cost. It’s very possible that you have a broken solder joint on the valve body circuits. I wish I could be of more help sorry Peyton
A little bit overkill but I was a little bit zealous that day!! But thank you very much if you mean that nicely. if you don’t it’s OK because it’s definitely nowhere near that long any longer. God bless and have the best of days
Hey boss, I got an 06 350z with roughly 69,000 miles. I've noticed that the shifting is a little off at times and have been looking to maybe replace a few components in the valve body with an upgrade kit I found. Would it be safer - in your opinion - to just clean it up first and see how it does? If so, what is a good cleaning method that won't cause any damage?
Yeah just use your head when you look at it you kind a know what to do you think about how it works figure it out by looking at it and you’ll know what to replace the only thing you won’t know if they’re right or not are the shifting solenoid’s but replacing them could not hurt it I wouldn’t think Don’t worry if my video does not scare you you will be OK hope that’s helpful I’m sure you can do it
@@sharpcarco Found out the issue was a residual code that I didn't clear from replacing a Camshaft Position sensor. It seem - based on research- to be pretty common across the board in Nissans. If you don't clear the code and get the sensor(s) replaced, the ECU will have a hard time judging when to shift. Oddly, even with the code still in it, it will exhibit these symptom. I replaced the sensor months ago and thought I had cleared the code, but there was apparently a double instance of it in the car. The codes were C1130 and P0345 for reference. Appreciate the help either way man.
After I did the repair in the video I did not use the exact shift solenoid and it would create the check engine light to come on then the customer that I sold it to brought it back and I replaced it with the proper solenoid and as far as I know I have never had the check engine light come back on it did not affect the drivability using the wrong solenoid as long as it was the proper ohm As far as I know everything is great
Ok so I’m stuck on this boat now.... basically the car is giving me a U code. Which will not let my car start now. Apparently the computer in the transmission is not communicating with the car. So I can’t flush bc the car will not start. Could I just get a new computer or clean what I have?
Hey James how are you doing? Sounds like you’re not doing the best believe it or not. I have a solution that may work for you which is going to surprise you it certainly surprised me when it happened to me. It is possible that your dash cluster is broken and that is why you’re not able to communicate with the transmission. It happened to me. Unfortunately this is the text message and I can’t be for certain. But it is simpler to pull the dash cluster out and check the Solder on the back of the circuit board: I will send you a link to my video as soon as I find the video I hope it helps. It’s very possible you have a bad control unit connection they definitely break down in there but this is also a possibility to... I hope the information is helpful and not misleading
The Clay Way I’m going to check both. Bc I had the transmission and coolant mix issue. Replaced the radiator flushed the system..... after a month of full driving I’m thinking I didn’t get all the water out and it still killed my computer. But I’m going to look at this too....
this helped me big time thank you so much, kinda need more understanding on what solenoids it what mime i has no reverse but fluid was black and thanks about the bypass cus that is commin for this cars thank you again
Well I would highly highly highly recommend changing all of them the only solenoid that looks different is the one on the very end closest to the front of the transmission. And I was pretty certain my video I put up good explanation of what the different styles were. the solenoids are either Low ohm Or high ohm. But I found after I made the video that you do have to use specific maker solenoid on the very end one and there are three different styles 2 Mitsubishi and one different style bosch. Let us know if your repair is successful I’m glad to hear the video was helpful
Hey Anthony I will have to look that up on Monday but the turbine revolution sensor is generally called vehicle speed sensor. I’m fairly certain there are the same thing and there usually located on the rear of the tail housing on the transmission
Hey Anthony I can’t say for certain but When they speak of turbines revolution sensor they generally mean a vehicle speed sensor and it’s located on the rear of the tail shaft housing of the transmission on most transmissions I might be able to possibly look that up for you Monday but it would be best if you reach out to me on clays Ac and Auto Repair Facebook I get messages they’re much easier than I do on here sometimes they get lost in the shuffle
@@sharpcarco the other thing , that's the only code it shows when I pulled up the codes, and people say that I need to change the howl valve body, or just get my transmission rebuilt because it's on the verge of not being able to start? Idk I really think the shops are huasleing me
Well I’m really sorry Thomas I wish I could be of some help I did that video A while ago and I don’t think I had the same complications and I haven’t had anybody say the same thing as you the only thing I could think of is possibly you took out the wrong bolt in there still one in there. I’m sorry I wish I had a better memory but that was the first and the last time I done that procedure I do wish you the best and wish I could be of more help
So I’m guessing you just say the heck with it don’t try to do anything just get a new one? , I understand your logic if there wasn’t something wrong already but once there’s something wrong with that you have to try to do something, can’t can’t just leave the water in their I’m guessing you didn’t watch the video so you have no clue what you’re talking about
OK so first off I was correct you did not watch the video because you would know the answer to every single one of them questions. End it having coolant inside your transmission fluid has nothing to do with maintenance....... Anyways I don’t have the time to have a battle of intelligence with unarmed man so I’m going to end the discussion right here. Have a good evening good luck with your trolling
Well that’s a shame but doesn’t really bother me I days and long hours making this video and you’re upset about it there being in at three minutes after it started I don’t think there’s anyone who made a video as comprehensive as mine so good luck to you it was a Lot of good information that you missed I hate to lose the subscribers . I literally make 2/10 of a cent from every single view so I don’t think your money will be missed . You know it cracks me up when people say stuff like this it doesn’t make any sense they take no consideration whatsoever the time and effort that is put in so you can watch a free video and show you how to do something at home you would not know how to do . And hopefully save you a couple thousand dollars it really is the death of humanity when people say things like this and don’t appreciate what things are what they are . That is why no one has any court fundamentals in life anymore
Hey Clay. I have a 2007 Nissan Frontier 4.0 2wd. It’s was shifting hard. I drove it home and the next morning I started it, put it into gear and had no power and a loud whine. Does that sound like the valve body or pump failure to you?
pretty sure maxlife meets the matic s or the current nissan spec
I just checked the valvoline maxlife website - it does indeed meet all the 'matic' nissan specs and is good to go in your trans -
www.valvoline.com/our-products/automatic-transmission-products/maxlife-multi-vehicle-atf click PI sheet to confirm
Well thanks Joseph because that’s awesome .
Honestly I’m pretty sure I used Maxi life in mine. I just didn’t say that in the video because people will start arguing with you. (Me) somebody like you says it it’s all good because I don’t have to worry about the fallout. Super sweet I appreciate the info and I’m sure everybody else will have a great day thanks for sharing the info with us
@@sharpcarco outstanding video! I have a hard 1-2 shift in my Xterra right now and I'm pretty sure this is the issue. Your video has helped me prep tremendously. I'm like you, cheap and working class poor. Subed and liked, again, thank you - it means a lot to me and my family.
Yes it did , I also said that in the video
I had an 05 Xterra with a problem with a broken pin on the TCM. Had a Front Brake Solenoid code 1757. The vehicle was stuck in limp mode (3rd gear I think). Limp mode is designed to protect the transmission from further damage that could be caused. Re-soldered the pin and was back in business. A word of advice, when you're re-soldering the pin, reinforce the break with a piece of wire... don't just rely on the solder material to hold. My first attempt failed after a couple of months. The reinforced fix seems to be holding up after a year.
thefranstastics do you have any videos of the symptoms.
@@Charles_travels Main symptom of these problems is the truck goes into limp mode and sets a Trouble code.
The best tutorial video I've ever seen it wasn't to long because you covered everything I needed to know in one very easy to follow video
I will mention it pays to check the speed sensor
Keep up the good work and God Bless
Thank you
Doing exactly what you did. Had moisture in that circuit board, hopping this does the fix when I put her together. Thanks for making a video I'm sure you've help many other people out !
At 21:30 into the video that solenoid is called the Low Coast Brake Solenoid. There are 2 different versions of this solenoid which depend on your year model. 2000 to 2004 it will be the low ohm version. 2005 and up it will be the high ohm version. You HAVE to put the correct one in your valve body.
Nice I tried to tell me I need to replace it at a rough shift between 3rd and 4th I replaced all the solenoids put it back together brand new you rock
That is awesome. I am so glad that this video still helping folks I appreciate you taking the time to write the message. It really does make me very very happy. God bless welcome to the channel. Happy to have you.
That was a very good video sir. Uve watched thousands. Been a tech for years
What did you use to clean the valve body? I see someone posted to use brake cleaner. Did you use a soft brush when cleaning the contacts? Did it help clean up the old silicone? Why didn't you show any of the valve body cleaning?! That would have helped so much. Any particular order to installing the new solenoids? Are the new solenoids interchangeable (or are they labelled out of the package)? Again, why did you not show installing the solenoids? I'm okay with the video length as I want/need to see everything (I'm tired of working on things in the yard only to find out that the video left very important things out). After all those questions - it is a really good video and will help immensely.
Well I certainly tried to cover as much as I could. I like to think even though that video is not that old I probably would’ve made it different now than what I made it then.
This was the first time I tried to ever did anything like this. It did end up working excellent. But because of that reason I was unsure that it was going to even work or that anyone would ever see it.
The solenoids are not interchangeable if I remember correctly there are three different types of solenoids in there. Depending on which style of ohm solenoid you have
With the variance of what’s called a high ohm solenoid. Or a low ohms solenoid. You will need to call the dealership with your Vin number to determine which style of solenoid you have unless you can test them on the bench like I did (this required me to watch TH-cam videos on how to OHM them out
Meaning that the valve bodies are different some valve bodies are low ohms some valve bodies carry the high ohm set of solenoids
First you need to determine if yours is the high ohms set or yours is the low ohms set.
Now in the video I think I did describe the different styles of solenoids.
And once you start disassembling this most of your questions will be answered easily by yourself. I understand where you’re coming from but generally a job like this takes quite a bit of mechanical aptitude and most people think they need to see everything before they take it apart but they will not understand what I’m talking about until they start doing the job.
I did use brake cleaner to clean it up it’s very common. I did remove all the silicone. And I also replaced it with a comparable product just any simple red silicone is fine.
The solenoids are not marked. Because like I said this does require a higher level of just looking at stuff and using common sense. I do believe anybody could do this if they try.
As far as the reasons that I didn’t show a lot of the other things because they did not work out the way that I wanted them to and I would be doing more harm than good.
The only thing that may be a problem for you or anyone else that I did not describe in the video is going to be getting the solenoids out of the valve body generally they break off and they Will require a little bit of tenacity. Meaning that you’re going to have to sit there with the pic in a little screwdriver and take out the plastic parts that break off on the end. Down inside the holes.
I hope all of that information is helpful for you and I want to add one little bit
What do you have right now? I’m assuming something that’s broken.
What’s the worst case scenario if you try to do this job? Something that still broken. I can’t guarantee this is going to fix your problem but I can tell you that it definitely fixed mine. And even doing the work myself between fluids and parts I probably still had at least $300 into doing this. And in the end it could’ve been all pissed out the window. But because I stepped up to the table and played the game I actually won. In my videos I generally do things like this cheaper and save money for myself because I think about what I have before I start.
With all of that said I don’t know that my mechanical expertise or knowledge helps me all that much because generally it just boils down to common sense and that’s how I’m able to do the repairs that I do even when I’ve never done them before or have no previous knowledge of doing them.
I look at stuff I think about the way it works and I take it apart and try to figure out how it worked before I put it back in there I think that that’s why I’m successful most of the time more so than my past knowledge of working on cars because most of the stuff I make TH-cam videos on I’ve never done before.
I hope the message is it too long and you can understand it God bless I wish you the best of luck with your job.
All good until I had a seizure at 20:25 😳
Nice presentation 🤷♂️ you have a real gift of teaching. Thank you, brother. ☺️
Yeah I must’ve messed something up during editing in but it only last for like 30 seconds or so if I remember correctly.
Hey! Thank you very much for the video. I have a 2005 paty with this transmission. Transmission was flooded surely but before I got the car. The transmission runs perfectly in P, R, 1st and skips 2nd and 3rd and only after 40km/h steps into 4th. I changed the solenoids and cleaned the tcm but I have the same problem… no error on tester… any help pls?
Yes! You made very good explanation but MORE LIGHT!! I am working on my 2005 nissan frontier anbd scared to death untill now...THANK YOU!
Well that’s one of my longer videos and I thought I was really onto something it was not very well planned out but I think the information was good like you said so thank you for the kind words and I do try to work on getting better with my videos
Yeah that transmission conductor plate looks very similar to my mercedes one. I ditched it and bought a new one on e bay BAPA brand. around 80.00$inc gasket, filter
Also, same as you did the valv atf. Ive kept it in though, its been a year, no more limp mode.
Now dealing with a no reverse xterra uggghh
Holy hell dude!! Split the valve body and drive the solenoids out with a small hammer and proper size punch or 1/4" drive socket.
I’m sure you are correct but I was worried about the little bb’s falling out of the pathways. Thanks for letting us know a couple people of asked the same thing
@@sharpcarco There are diagrams readily available for check ball/spring locations. I can send you a pdf if you want it.
Yep, this is the only way to save them (split and open). I used a hammer and a #10 Robinson screwdriver; fits perfect and only one or two light punches to pop them out. Great vid, thx.
Can you please send me the pdf?
I’m taking mine apart as well
Guzmcele@gmail.com Thank you In advance!
@@guzmcele www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiAgsbZhZnsAhUKK80KHSDsBgYQFjAAegQIBhAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.atra.com%2FManuals%2FIndividual%2F2008%2F2008-261.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0mI1tdBNBSRGMDeQLiPf5j
How did you get the broken solenoids out of the valve body??
With a pic to and a lot of care it was hard as heck to get that sucker out but just keep working around with it. Remember that there’s a nipple at the bottom of it that’s actually holding it.
How did you get the broken part of solenoids out
I just used to pick Tool and slowly methodically gently broke it out-of-the-way and then pulled it out with needle nose pliers
How did you get the broken transmission solenoid out of the valve body?
Delicately with pics and screwdrivers
What was the 12 bolts that you need to take out to get the valve body out
Isn't the radiator passage for heating trans fluid, rather than cooling it?
Quite possible I could’ve missed spoke.
I replaced a solenoid and disconnected circuit board to look for any broken parts (it had none) put it back in and now it won’t go into gear at all. Does it need to be reprogrammed? Pathfinder 2010 was shifting perfectly but it had a Low Coast solenoid valve coad P1774 thanks
No.. you should probably take it back out and look at it closer. Also, I would test each solenoid..
Great video. But do you know if the input speed sensor for pathfinder is built into valve body or seperate part
Sorry gunz Im fairly sure it is but uncertain.
I have 2004 xterra 70k miles it wont move at all i checked the linkage and it was good although i shouldn't check the linkage because the car can go in neutral , now i think it has internal problem , my question is what possibly can be the problem i heard that cleaning the valve body and filter can fix the problem considering that the car is low miles and tourqe converter wont fail now .
Really sorry I am not a transmission mechanic so unfortunately I would be not the one to get advice from
Hey great video i have an 08 frontier that has started shifting hard im going to try the flush and clean the valve body and see if it changes anything. Thanks for the great info.
Don Da Roper is it possible that this issue could be caused by that bc the other gears shift fine
I also have an 08 pathfinder. It could also be the radiator leaking some fluid into the trans and causing the valve body to short circuit... That might be the cause for most of these problems, like in this video.
You may have missed it but that is what happened.
Clay, is it true that if you replace the valve body you have to take it to Nissan to get reprogrammed? That's the word I'm getting around here.
Felipe Ruiz. Good morning I don’t know why you would have to do that if it has the same ohm solenoids in it. 🤷🏻♂️ so I don’t know why you would because there’s no computer chips inside the valve body it’s just pathways for circuits to run and send power. Too solenoids.... just keep in mind I’m no expert. I could see where the memory would have to be flashed on the TCM controller because it would be set a certain way but I would also think that after about five or six times of driving it it would reset itself to the new driving conditions that the solenoids and Valve body control module would affect
I needed to see you break those solenoids off if you broke it chances are someone else is not me but someone... thats my only issue is them solenoids are stuck i think u can use compressed air to pop them out ill figure it out
Which solenoid was the TCC solenoid? I can match any numbers and the names don’t match on any image. There is an input and a direct clutch control in the photo I found. But my part is called TCC (in the manual) or TCS (at the auto parts store)
Maybe you said but what was popping up on scanners? Mine ms saying front right brake solenoid code 0P1759 it’s a Nissan Pathfinder, pretty sure it’s casing other codes to also pop up. It’s not shifting hard, but more so low power, almost like a misfire
Watched just to see how the other side of the valve body looks like. Here’s the problem I ran into; I was doing a routine service, and I’ve never serviced a Nissan transmission before so I bought the ATF and what I thought was a filter, but happened to be it’s just a screen. I said might as well change it so I started to remove the bolts holding the screen noticing some are longer than others like a typical valve body. Then I noticed the 3 that are held by nuts instead of bolts. I removed them just to notice what I thought was a solid stud, now feels like a regular bolt. Of course the head of that bolt is inside the valve body. You ever ran into this? Is there a way to get those right without having to remove the valve body?
Good evening sorry to hear that but I think I have a simple solution it may not seem simple for you but it truly is I promise if anyone else can do it you can do it to! I am not a super Nissan technician nor do I know a lot about these. But from my experience you’re better off just removing the valve body like I showed you in the video and then you’ll be able to remove the stud and replace it it really was not that difficult to remove the valve body. I hope that information is helpful for you Juan and I wish you the best of luck.
The Clay Way thank you for the prompt reply. I managed to get those right without removing the valve body. I hand tighten the nuts until they were flush with the screen, then very carefully I pinched the end of the bolt with a pair of needle nose pliers and a rag in between the bolt and pliers to keep it from damaging the threads, as I tightened the nut with an open end wrench. I then hoped it was tight enough to bite I then set my torque wrench to 70in.lbs and hoped for the best, and sure enough they torqued to spec!
I didn’t want to unbolt the valve body because I don’t want to deal with broken solenoids and all the that’s related with removing that stuff on a truck that was promised to be done in a few hours.
At 21:21 into the video why is the thin metal arm that usually sticks straight up all bent over to the side like that?
Good video . But can you please put the year model in the title ?
Thanks .
You said yours was shifting hard mine shifting good we it pull,s you get on it sometimes it will pull then sometimes it will not pull in forward but will go in reverse. Think changing the fluid will fix the problem it beats the 5500.00 the shop wants for a transmission
More than likely it won’t help Dale but it’s like you say I think about it the same way you can’t break was already broken in this situation so doing something is better than doing nothing
My 2001 4x4 has been flushed 2 times and is working fine at 190,000 miles and I think I’ll let the Valvoline quick change do a fluid change pan only and transfer case and differential
2001 X Terra 4x4 Gen 1 here
Hi clay.. i have an xterra 2010 had an issue few days back.. I was driving a long drive in the highway continously till i arrived at a stop light.. then ran again for 1 mile then suddenly i was like running in a neutral and engages but runs real slow. I left my truck and came the next day. And put it in drive catches in drive and reverse. Put it back in neutral and reverse and it not engaging. Went back with a obd and found p1731 e break. Mechanics advised its burnt out clutch plates. Checked the oil but not smell or brownish color. Need your second opinion on this. Thanks.
Hey thank you for the video I think it will be most helpful I'm having a breaking and first gear problem so from what I've read in my hands book 99 videos I have a solenoid or one of those connectors in there but thanks again for the view of how it all looks it just shed some light for me thank you
No problem I’m very glad that I made this video and it turned out excellent for me I think it will help and I think it has helped thousands of people I’ve had lots of people message me and tell me that they were able to fix theirs using this video so that’s so awesome to hear I hope it will help you as well and worst case scenario you’re out $200 but you didn’t spend two or three grand on a transmission without trying to fix something first…. Welcome to the channel we’re very happy to have you
Hi I have 2000nissan Xterra and it's pulling hard in second gear n won't shift. Now it's making a loud noise n has a hard kick back under the truck. I bought the truck this year in March 11, 2019 as is but didn't have any problems until month n a half after I bought it.
Thanks for making this video.. This video definitely gave me hope.. We were close to just donating the vehicle.. but I will tackle the job and I have a pretty good feeling this will solve the issue im having with my Pathfinder.. Aloha and God Bless..
Did it work? I did the by pass and flushed it but still get check engine like and it revs high after it gets warm.
I mentioned in the video that I can see the clutches once the valve body is out and my clutches were not bad in your situation your clutch plates are probably wore down, I’m sorry to hear that but you should give yourself an A for effort. A lot of folks just look at the video and don’t even try it so pat yourself on the back for at least trying it
@@josephturnage7841
It didnt work actually.. but i did see a break in the circuit of the valve body.. so i went and purchased a reman valve body on ebay.. ill let u know if it works..
@@jhayq3225 did the reman valve body worked?
@@flaviofugazza6737 good luck.. Flavio
Any fix for no reverse or will it need a new transmission?
Well doing this procedure in the video will be much cheaper than trying to find a good used transmission or having your transmission rebuilt. This procedure is going to cost you about $100 with fluid maybe 200. So getting a used transmission is probably gonna cost 1500 to 2500 and about the same for a rebuilt one . If you’re a gambler like me it’s probably not a bad idea to try this out and at the very least you know you have a good transmission control module.
I would also add if you only are missing reverse. More than likely it’s your control module because if I remember correctly and (I’m not a transmission technician) first gear and reverse gear are the same gear.
Maybe you should give it a go and let us know how it went
Does it matter in what order the replaces solenoids will go?
Yes it is ... if I remember right . There are 2 Different types of solenoids that go on each board some of them are low ohm’s and some of them are high ohm’s . One style board uses the low ohm’s board and the other style is the high OHMS Mine in the video was the high style.
In each board there are three different types of solenoids I don’t remember them all distinctly but I do point them out in the video. They have to be in order and in the correct position.
You will have to review the video once more and pay particular attention I know it’s sometimes hard because I run my mouth quite a bit. I am continuingly trying to make my videos better and not get off of point. But it is a work in progress says please bear with me while I learn how to teach other people. This was the very first time I did this procedure and I was very successful. Hopefully that answers your question and helps you a little bit
The Clay Way thank you!!!
I have a nissan pathfinder 2009. I have hitachi computer can you put the bosh one ?
And i wanted to knoe do you have to program it mine burnt completely and i have problems looking for the original one i just wanna knoe those ?? Thank you
I don’t know the answer to that question if it plugs in the same way and if it uses the same ohm. Solenoids I don’t see any reason it wouldn’t work but honestly I’m no expert.
Knowledge is power!
Hello.. I did a transmission flush on my 06 xterra automatic and added Lucas transmission fluid. It work wonders. Also flush the radiator. I bypass both of them. Drove it and Weeks later , now I'm having no crank start, so I did a bypass on the starter and it crank. These are the things I did....
1. Ignition switch work with my light test.
2. Bench test starter, it work.
3. All fuses are good. But dont know about relays fuses. I've moved them around and no go.
4. My first code was for a natural switch that I can't find. Which I think the xterra dont have.
5. When bypass the starter, drove to Advance Auto for the second code and gave me a code of U1000.
So I'm stuck!
All this started with the transmission and radiator fluids being bad. Any help on how to crank my vehicle? Does the value body has something to with no crank?
U1000 is the code that most automobile manufacturers send out when the automobile is being scanned . If I remember correctly it has nothing to do with anything .
Because you said the word Nissan I highly recommend that you check the connection on the battery post positive side there is a fuse that blows . It’s not a part of the normal fuses you need to check that fuse for continuity it is connected right near the main positive battery post.
I’m glad that you had great success with flushing your radiator etc. etc.
But that probably doesn’t have anything to do with what’s going on now .
If that fuse is not blown take both battery cables off of the battery take a zip tie and tie them together for 30 minutes .
Replace the battery cables this will reflash the ECM’s inside the car and then we can see if it will start . That’s all I can come up with off the top my head for right now but let us know how it goes I wish you the best of luck thank you very much .
@@sharpcarco thank you for your reply so quick. I've check that positive battery fuse for continuity. But when I get home this after noon, I'll double check it all and clean. I'll get back to you after.. ty again
@@sharpcarco so I did what you ask for me to do. The fuses are good and cleaned on the positive terminal as well the negative. No Start. Still everything comes on but no crank. Is there a switch in the body value? Cause I got a engine start button installed from the starter and a orange wire (next to ignition) (bypass) and it crank with that but the more I use it, it get weaker to crank. I have no clue what else to do. Which I knew where the netural switch is located if it has one.
TY for your time.
dne2007 Oh!!!!!! I feel like the scientist from back to the future just hit my head on the back of the toilet and had a thought.......
Hold the key in the start position. Just like you’re trying to start it..... put your foot on the break and move the shifter through the gears and see if it ever tries to start while you’re moving the shifter remember to keep holding it in the start position then that will tell you that the neutral safety switch is went defective. Literally there is a 19-year-old that is telling me about the same exact problem he did the exact same thing you did I was just talking to him three minutes ago.... Man I hope that works I will feel totally awesome if it does and it makes sense your neutral safety switch is more than likely bad
@@sharpcarco good morning. I played with the xterra last night with my test light and there's no light coming out the trigger wire. So, it's a bad connection somewhere. Gonna try your steps from the 19 yr old and try to look more further in the wire harness and box relay. I'll let you know tonight what happens. Learning more and more playing with Nissan. Lol
Hay do u know which silinoid is for the overdrive? I had the vaule body out a few times.one of those copper fingers broke i had to fix.thanks.
Yes, I tell you in the video what is solenoid does.
I'm sorry to ask again but in the video that I watched for a while the video slowed down and I couldn't understand what was being said on which silinoid controls the the overdrive.the rest of the video was awesome and it helped me the other time I found the copper finger broke and my transmission went into limp mode. Thank you for the help.
I have a 2007 Xterra 4WD. It’s throwing solenoid codes and oddly enough a starter code (P0850, P0615 and P1772). About 3 months ago, I was thrown into limp mode and was told SMOD but it only acted that way once. The ignition thing has me stumped as I have never had a problem starting it. The car is running fine now except I have no cruise control. The cruise light will pop on but it will never engage. The SES light is on and I had someone put a code reader on it and got those. Any idea what’s going on?
Hello Sir,
Great job, I will do the same job coming up,Thank you for the input Specially on the bolt removal!
Do you have a pic on bolt removal by any chance.
thank you.
Any info on turbine revolution sensor for an 08 pathfinder 3.5l fwd is your pathfinder still running?
what kind of parts cleaner did you use on the board to get the gunk out of it? thinking about trying this. a lady up the street has an terra for sale that has been sitting for months. asked her about it and she says the transmission was acting up, lights coming on and the car bucks if you try to drive it. she want to sell it, I may buy it for a 4x4 toy.
Just regular brake cleaner
Great video thank you, really appreciate your style!
How did you get those solenoids out, the ones that broke off?
I used to pick Tool and took the rest of the broken parts out of the solenoid holders I’m pretty sure every one of them was made of aluminum so you shouldn’t have too much to worry about just be careful try to do it when it’s upside down if you can
The Clay Way The pick was the first attempt and no success, but I had luck drilling a small hole next to the metal sleeve and put a screw to pull it out! Thank man for the quick reply! I replaced the tcm and solenoids, and now the suv doesn’t engage in 1st gear only all the rest go threw, it takes time to get going!
Now I've subscribed to you channel and ring the bell 😅👌👍
I will also say that I’m so solenoids come as a set. And I’m fairly certain all you do is take the multi meter and send it to ohms there’s only three settings it’s either the first or second setting. And that will tell you what ohm Solenoid you have by testing the other solenoids. Hopefully that helps out and I’m certain you will get it though you don’t sound like you just landed on your head when you were born LOL I wish you the best of luck if I can help I certainly will try
@@sharpcarco thanks a lot 🌹🌹🌹
Where did u buy the solenoids
Internet.
Here’s an Amazon link
amzn.to/3GD2Gh6
Can someone here help me diagnose my vehicle. I am contemplating on replacing the whole transmission but i dont want to commit into a repair that may only cost to replace just a valve body. I have a 2005 nissan pathfinder v6 5 speed automatic. How the problem started: the problem started when a friend of mine tried parking backwards at a pretty steep hill and of course he let go of the brakes so it moved forward and he pressed on the gas fearing it might roll in to the ditch, the car jerked up the hill in reverse pretty hard.
The reverse issue got worse over the days . I had no other choice as we were out camping in a pretty unknow place. I did a trans flush at a place near our camp but didnt fixe the issue.
The reverse issue got worse now, before it took 2.5k-3k rpm until the reverse catches and engages now it takes 4-5k rpm till it catches.
There are no codes showing, i drove the vehicle about 500km back home and it had no issues driving. It was just the reverse. Being the problem. I also noticed that when i use reverse when the car is cold, the reverse engages at lower rpm although its still higher than normal. The transmission oil is still red and i did smell it when i arrived home and it didnt smell burnt or anything, the car also drived pretty well when i was driving that 500km back.
Another thing i notice is that when i am manualy shifting from 2 to 1, it doesnt go to 1?
I am just hoping someone could help me diagnose the problem. I tried reseting the tcm by removing the battery for 20-30min and it didnt fix it. The only thing I think that vould be the problem is the valve body or worn down clutch packs. I was thinking of the valve body as the problem more as the transmission oil does smell burnt and looks ok but im also thinking that a vode would show up if there was something wrong with the valve body.
If anyone can help me diagnose this please let me know. You can ask me any questions you like about the car. No fault codes on the transmission when scanned, was wondering if it will show any fault codes when a solenoid fails
SO i have a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder Ive replaced the Transmision Valve body which cleared all the codes. But i do keep getting the P1710 Code which is the Transmission Temputature Control sensor, Does anyone know where i can find this part? Ive looked everywhere including Nissan and everything they claim that goes for this truck is not compatable.
THe truck Runs great till it throws this code and it goes right into limp mode till i clear the code then it goes back to driving fine. ANy help would be appreciated!!
From what I read it seems like it’s under the valve body. I’m not certain though
@@sharpcarco yes it's under the valve body and is bolted on just can't seem to find one on the internet to fit the vehicle
I liked the Funky Heavy sound effects at the 20:30 min mark on this video. Sounds demonic with breath on your neck type affect. Otherwise a good video for what seems like a chronic problem with Nissan type ATF cooling engineering.
I removed the screws but something is still stopping it from loosening and droping
Well I’m very sorry to hear that is it possibly your plug holding it up in there? At the top where it is also possible that you did miss one of the bolts. At least that’s what I would have to think if it’s not dropping down for you. Just take your time be patient take another look at it and I’m certain he will figure it out remember “ if anyone else can do it you can do it to”
God bless have a great day
Great video!! I hope don't have to open it up!!
I had to remove it. What did you use to clean it?
Great video, huge help! 19yo working on my first car by myself and i just need a little extra help. I got a 07 Xterra that had the "Strawberry Milkshake of Death" a few weeks back. I flushed the system and replaced the rad and it's been running fine until last night. It blew the trans fuse and now it doesn't start. I did everything you did in the video and before I try to start it again I just wanted to know if you think their could be any other problems that could cause the fuse to blow? Also what kind of silicone did you use to cover up all the components? Thanks!
Hey Parker I appreciate the kind words very much and I’m glad to hear that the video was helpful for you. That’s crazy that you say that I just had a Nother person mentioned the same exact problem earlier this week I don’t know what’s going on and I’m sorry I can’t be of any help there but I will try to get to the bottom of it if I ever come across this problem in the shop. More than likely there is some kind of thread somewhere on a Nissan blog have a good one I wish you the best of luck
@@sharpcarco Thanks a ton! I'm gonna finish up this repair and hope it works, I'll come back in a day or so to let you know how it all worked out in-case you get something similar in the shop!
Parker Roberts Films
dne2007 Oh!!!!!! I feel like the scientist from back to the future just hit my head on the back of the toilet and had a thought.......
Hold the key in the start position. Just like you’re trying to start it..... put your foot on the break and move the shifter through the gears and see if it ever tries to start while you’re moving the shifter remember to keep holding it in the start position then that will tell you that the neutral safety switch is went defective. Man I hope I’m right I will feel awesome
The Clay Way I’ll try this as soon as I get it back together! Thanks!
Parker Roberts Films There’s also another kid on here that has the exact same problem as you I think the two of you should talk about it he is down here in the comments and then maybe when one of you figures out what it is you can share with the other one
Great video sir thank!!
Nice video sir, thank!! For share
So nice of you herb thank you as well
Hi good job awesome want to know how to test selenoid I got on live data selenoid 12456 selenoid 2 not coming on and iam getting hard shifting some time from 1 gear to gear 2 so can you show me how to test it and you didn't show us how did you remove it from transmission valve body and will flush solve my problem, taking 8n mind ive drained and filled about 20000 mile
Well during my research of doing these I found That a lot of the time the Metal circuitry that runs underneath there ends up breaking as far as testing them I don’t really know I can’t remember I know there’s only two different styles on low ohm’s and a high ohm’s And I’m pretty sure I diagnosed that with just my multi meter or I called up the dealership and gave them my Vin number and they told me I honestly can’t remember
Also there was video showing people how to test them and I was probably not very confident about the way I tested it and that’s more than likely the reason that I did not show it in the video. There was certainly a reason behind it I just don’t remember what it was. I give out good information when I’m confident but if you watch the video you also know that that was the very first time I did it but you may also find out that I’m the only person in the world to ever do it at least at that time I was maybe there’s a better video for you to watch
@@sharpcarco thanks a lot cause really I don't know what causes that it suddenly happen and live data showing that selenoid doesn't turn on that's why I think it's selenoid, thinking of I cleaned valve body itll work cause I don't know how is it good or bad cause oil was dirty and oil pan so
I've just changed oil cleaned oil pan and it was ok after that until now a days, if I saw your video, before that time definitely I'll dissasemble it like you but my doubts now on selenoid I'll check my altima live data for transmission and see if it's my autel md805 problem I'll check with my friend mk808 if it same ill go for selenoid may be its the gallery but have to check
Here is my video it's in diffrent languge but it shows the condition of the oil and filter and that's why I didn't change filter or at least cleaned it
th-cam.com/video/P6SDrBdLU9c/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful 👌 tanks
Thank you very much I greatly appreciate that welcome to the channel very happy to have folks like you on board
So did it work? U didn't mention if it worked after u were done
I Definitely did. Yes
I followed the steps in your video because I was getting a slip when shifting from 4th to 5th. That issue is addressed, but I am not experiencing some sort of slip/kick when doing rapid acceleration from a stop. I don’t think it’s the clutch because I didn’t have this issue before. I put it on a scanner and I got the code P1731 automatic transmission first braking. Any ideas on what I should do now? Thank you.
I had to take mine apart twice because I had something like that happened the first time I just cleaned it again and it went away
Hey man I got a problem with my 2006 Nissan Frontier I can drive it around and all of a sudden it makes a pop sound and it’s like it goes into neutral I can turn the truck off and turn it back on put back in gear and it will go for a couple hundred yards and just all sudden it’s like it goes back into neutral! Any ideas what it could be?
That definitely sounds like a Vavle body issue. But I’m not a transmission expert. I do know if you take the valve body out like I did in the video you can always put it back together the same way it was and you may be able to fix the problem at next to no cost. It’s very possible that you have a broken solder joint on the valve body circuits. I wish I could be of more help sorry Peyton
Thats one hell of an intro..........
A little bit overkill but I was a little bit zealous that day!! But thank you very much if you mean that nicely.
if you don’t it’s OK because it’s definitely nowhere near that long any longer. God bless and have the best of days
No man, you put some time into it. I've been watching your videos.
Hey boss, I got an 06 350z with roughly 69,000 miles. I've noticed that the shifting is a little off at times and have been looking to maybe replace a few components in the valve body with an upgrade kit I found. Would it be safer - in your opinion - to just clean it up first and see how it does? If so, what is a good cleaning method that won't cause any damage?
Yeah just use your head when you look at it you kind a know what to do you think about how it works figure it out by looking at it and you’ll know what to replace the only thing you won’t know if they’re right or not are the shifting solenoid’s but replacing them could not hurt it I wouldn’t think Don’t worry if my video does not scare you you will be OK hope that’s helpful I’m sure you can do it
@@sharpcarco Found out the issue was a residual code that I didn't clear from replacing a Camshaft Position sensor. It seem - based on research- to be pretty common across the board in Nissans. If you don't clear the code and get the sensor(s) replaced, the ECU will have a hard time judging when to shift. Oddly, even with the code still in it, it will exhibit these symptom. I replaced the sensor months ago and thought I had cleared the code, but there was apparently a double instance of it in the car. The codes were C1130 and P0345 for reference. Appreciate the help either way man.
Thank you for Your video very helpful ! keep the good work God bless..
So, how's the pathfinder doing after the repair?
After I did the repair in the video I did not use the exact shift solenoid and it would create the check engine light to come on then the customer that I sold it to brought it back and I replaced it with the proper solenoid and as far as I know I have never had the check engine light come back on it did not affect the drivability using the wrong solenoid as long as it was the proper ohm As far as I know everything is great
Ok so I’m stuck on this boat now.... basically the car is giving me a U code. Which will not let my car start now. Apparently the computer in the transmission is not communicating with the car. So I can’t flush bc the car will not start. Could I just get a new computer or clean what I have?
Hey James how are you doing? Sounds like you’re not doing the best believe it or not.
I have a solution that may work for you which is going to surprise you it certainly surprised me when it happened to me. It is possible that your dash cluster is broken and that is why you’re not able to communicate with the transmission. It happened to me. Unfortunately this is the text message and I can’t be for certain. But it is simpler to pull the dash cluster out and check the Solder on the back of the circuit board: I will send you a link to my video as soon as I find the video I hope it helps.
It’s very possible you have a bad control unit connection they definitely break down in there but this is also a possibility to... I hope the information is helpful and not misleading
The Clay Way I’m going to check both. Bc I had the transmission and coolant mix issue. Replaced the radiator flushed the system..... after a month of full driving I’m thinking I didn’t get all the water out and it still killed my computer. But I’m going to look at this too....
@@jamesofalltrades4359 check a/t con fuse under glove box. I replaced mine and car started. Not permanent fix thou. But might help
J T that fuse keep blowing. 🤷🏾♂️ which tells me there is a short.
@@jamesofalltrades4359 u find any info on your short? Or any idea
this helped me big time thank you so much, kinda need more understanding on what solenoids it what mime i has no reverse but fluid was black and thanks about the bypass cus that is commin for this cars thank you again
Well I would highly highly highly recommend changing all of them the only solenoid that looks different is the one on the very end closest to the front of the transmission. And I was pretty certain my video I put up good explanation of what the different styles were. the solenoids are either Low ohm Or high ohm. But I found after I made the video that you do have to use specific maker solenoid on the very end one and there are three different styles 2 Mitsubishi and one different style bosch. Let us know if your repair is successful I’m glad to hear the video was helpful
Hey boss man, good video! Really quick where is the turbine revolution sensor located bro
Hey Anthony I will have to look that up on Monday but the turbine revolution sensor is generally called vehicle speed sensor. I’m fairly certain there are the same thing and there usually located on the rear of the tail housing on the transmission
Hey Anthony I can’t say for certain but When they speak of turbines revolution sensor they generally mean a vehicle speed sensor and it’s located on the rear of the tail shaft housing of the transmission on most transmissions I might be able to possibly look that up for you Monday but it would be best if you reach out to me on clays Ac and Auto Repair Facebook I get messages they’re much easier than I do on here sometimes they get lost in the shuffle
@@sharpcarco 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
@@sharpcarco Kool big boss, I been asking all kinds of people, they say it's in the valve body, and they say it on the driver side o the car
@@sharpcarco the other thing , that's the only code it shows when I pulled up the codes, and people say that I need to change the howl valve body, or just get my transmission rebuilt because it's on the verge of not being able to start? Idk I really think the shops are huasleing me
I took all 13 bolts out and still nothing so tell me what I’m doing wrong. I followed ur instructions step by step whys isn’t my valve body coming out
Well I’m really sorry Thomas I wish I could be of some help I did that video A while ago and I don’t think I had the same complications and I haven’t had anybody say the same thing as you the only thing I could think of is possibly you took out the wrong bolt in there still one in there.
I’m sorry I wish I had a better memory but that was the first and the last time I done that procedure I do wish you the best and wish I could be of more help
@@sharpcarco I found what the problem was u forgot one bolt
Hmm i’ve had lots of comments on that I don’t remember anybody saying that but that is certainly a possibility I think Sorry my brother I apologize
Can someone help me find a valve body for a 97 pathfinder?
Can't never could.
Did it sound like his voice transformed into a lion at the end...!!!...lol
Yeah sorry about that it was a really long video and I must’ve pushed the wrong button to slow it down
I would not want to touch that fluid.
Can you help me find the solenoids? I have 3330 811, 3340 812, 3310 813 I need to find . Nissan 08 pathfinder LE 4.0.
Many many thanks
Never Flush a Transmission
So I’m guessing you just say the heck with it don’t try to do anything just get a new one? , I understand your logic if there wasn’t something wrong already but once there’s something wrong with that you have to try to do something, can’t can’t just leave the water in their
I’m guessing you didn’t watch the video so you have no clue what you’re talking about
@@sharpcarco if you regularly change the transmission oil from the beginning you won’t have to do this. This is what happens to a ignored transmission
@@sharpcarco hey smartass don’t get snippy with me I’m making a point and if it’s your car you’re a imbecile
OK so first off I was correct you did not watch the video because you would know the answer to every single one of them questions.
End it having coolant inside your transmission fluid has nothing to do with maintenance.......
Anyways I don’t have the time to have a battle of intelligence with unarmed man so I’m going to end the discussion right here. Have a good evening good luck with your trolling
Actually I think your doing all you can it’s really been abused
An ad less than 3 minister into the video! Smfh. I’m leaving this comment and moving on to the next video
Well that’s a shame but doesn’t really bother me I days and long hours making this video and you’re upset about it there being in at three minutes after it started I don’t think there’s anyone who made a video as comprehensive as mine so good luck to you it was a Lot of good information that you missed I hate to lose the subscribers . I literally make 2/10 of a cent from every single view so I don’t think your money will be missed . You know it cracks me up when people say stuff like this it doesn’t make any sense they take no consideration whatsoever the time and effort that is put in so you can watch a free video and show you how to do something at home you would not know how to do . And hopefully save you a couple thousand dollars it really is the death of humanity when people say things like this and don’t appreciate what things are what they are . That is why no one has any court fundamentals in life anymore
lol
Hey Clay. I have a 2007 Nissan Frontier 4.0 2wd. It’s was shifting hard. I drove it home and the next morning I started it, put it into gear and had no power and a loud whine. Does that sound like the valve body or pump failure to you?
Good morning Tim , Pump but I’m not an expert with transmissions