@@papahiker9014 normally I have created these out of old tin cans so they retain their shape but I see your design has no bottom so can be rolled up and fitted into the pot. I would be interested to see how you made it and how you designed it to keep its shape and support the pot when using it.
good ideas!!! i do that with a cuterly tray from Ikea or similar.. Holes for the pegs are there... in different hights.. a slot for the pot handle can be easily made.. ok.. a windshield is sometimes needed.. also a possibility.. have fun outdoors and indoors by creating new ideas! We wait for it! Thanks!
If I had to guess why this design still works better despite the one side being exposed to cold is the sides being heated is still more surface area than a standard stove design like the others you showed. You're exposing the majority of the pot's surface to heat basically. It's also likely still relatively warm on the exposed side from radiant heat creating an insulating barrier if you will
@8th sinner to stabilize the base on the can you could create a collapsible Bell Escutcheon that could slide around the bottom of the can with a slit that allows collapsing as well as leaves a gap for the air/lighting access hole.
Thanks scoutmaster! Oh man, about twenty years ago all of Europe changed their currency to Euro. We had to recalculate our guilders (multiply by 2.314 or something) to euro's for more than a year. And then your like: see you in thirty minutes, no 12.4 minutes, no hang on....
I used an old (older than 10yrs -therefore illegal to re-fill) 9kg gas bottle to make a really efficient solid fuel burner. It just needs a 4” angle grinder to make it. Iike all good designs, it draws fresh air in low, heats it up as it’s drawn up to the fuel ‘basket/platform’, which increases fuel combustion and efficiency, best of all, my cast iron camp oven (9quarts?) sits perfectly on top without disturbing the burning fuel. If I want to fry, I use the lid of the camp oven upturned on top of the burner instead (it can also act as a cooker ‘hot plate’ to put pots on if you want them on a slower cooking heat😊👍. It’s just not small enough to fit in your backpack & weighs around 6kg🤔, but it’s great for the garden or Car/van/truck camping. Yours is a really smart design 🔥😎👍.
Very eagerly waited for this video.. While i made myself a wood burning stove while waiting, i guess i have to redo mine in collapsible model, capable of burning also alcohol and tabs.. and i am sure my pots will be stainless steel only to save from wood soot.. Thanks for a great tutorial.
Functional with excellent cheapness! I'm making a #10 can version. Watch out for the conversion between EuroMetric seconds and minutes: the day is the same length as other places in the World, but there are only 10 hours, which are 100 miliHours long (like "minutes"), and each miliHour is further divided into microHours (like seconds). This system is to additionally divide the EuroMetric Zones from God's Own measurement system of SAE as used in historical USA. Confusion in highly technical operations will be increased in any cooperative endeavors, especially in similar-sounding units like microInches and micrometers (confused easily with a tool called a micrometer). ;-) A Hobo stove can be improved by your taller chimney, as well as by using a pot that is over 2x as wide as full to grab the heat on the underside. Like using a wide 2L pot to boil 1L of water. Lid is important in all boiling operations. Gadget additions to a pot like JetBoil "flux ring" will also transfer more heat. Digging a hole to place stove in and piling dirt or other barrier slows wind losses. This also reduces obvious thermal imaging profile. Best way to boil water is with FEROCIOUS pointing-up BLOWTORCH whitegas stove like MSR XGK. Maximum btu's output using liquid fuel boils well at 12000 feet above sea level on a glacier. Like carrying the FAL, this system will make your stronger.
Hi! Ah, now I understand why, when Americans throw a ball, Europeans sometimes catch it a second (but which one) early! It's just miscalculation. Your comment about digging a whole made me go....aha. That sounds like a pretty smart idea.
I can see the benefits of it, but I still don't like it. It relies on a certain level of instability of the pot to begin with, you can probably fix that with properly placed pegs but still. It can't be compressed and there are only so many round shapes can fit into round shapes in the bag. The partial gasification aspect is tempting but not enough to break my interest in my go to. Its also only good for pots of a certain size, which is good if you only need that but I like versatile options, something I can put a wok on just as easily as my 700ti cup. I just like my honey stove better, it can be made small with 4 sides for a one brew thing and you can easily give it a full chimney capture with a tinfoil cosie, also you can close up the door really easily by using pegs to hold any tabs or alcohol or trangia and clipping it's base over the door. It compresses to flat. It can be expanded from 4 sides to 6 or 8, large enough to hold a basic sweedish stove pattern of wood with a very high heat flame right in the middle. The 4 6 and 8 sided can hold a torch well but the bigger is better at times obviously. which is awesome if you have a good saw, just cut an upto 7 ish inch wide 4 inch thick slice of log split it and you're good even to cook a pizza with. It is perfectly and stabily able to use trangias, gas stoves, wood, tabs or anything else. There is no such thing as a perfect anything, they all have their drawbacks and benefits for different situations but I find the versatility of mine outweighs the loss of 60 seconds of btus and boil time. The only and admittedly major issue for some is based on assembly competence with cold hands cause it clips together with slots. But really thats just a practice thing. I've used the same stove through homeless experiences as well as camping for fun. I've done the cold thing to death and this issue just doesn't exist for me. I like the honey stove for the same reason I like a tarp over a tent, it can do just do more.
A second pin fixes stability which you could also use differently if you want. What I mean is cut to the right size you could tipi two pin/rods inside the can using the sidewall to support them. This would also provide a stable base. I can't describe it better than that but regardless the two pins instead of one also works if you do hikes like he did
@@Thee-_-Outlier I think I get what you're saying, for thru hikers and super light set ups its not a bad system and theres probably a few other tweaks to be made.
@papahiker9041 I built one of these, th-cam.com/users/shortsPP0QGj6uKP4?feature=share I made mine with a 3 lb bean can and use nesting 0.9L and 0.75L nesting cups and I love how well it nests in my edc bag. I use it for cooking lunch and plan to carry it when hunting and fishing and camping if I'm not carrying my bigger Biolite stove and grill. I had hoped this would be a good alternative to a Kelley kettle and in some ways it is, I can cook in it without having to carry extra pots, because it nests with my water bottle it's very size efficient compared to the Kelley kettle. it is very good in windy conditions like the KK, and I think it's probably a lighter system all together depending on what I'm using to store my water in. Also, I have the freedom to swap out my water bottle from a very light weight 1.5 L smart style water bottle for large capacity, or a 1 L insulated bottle for carrying hot or cold beverages. my question is, I had hoped it would be close to the KK in terms of time to boil for small quantities of water and it seems that base on the videos I've seen of the KK, mine is much slower. I don't know if it's a factor of my draught/chimney/intake size ratio, or that I'm using such a large bottomed pot that most of the heat is being wasted on the side walls when I'm just doing enough water for my coffee or something else. I have noticed that with my intake being a bit off the floor there's not good airflow at the bottom of my stove and I don't get good burn down there, I've added some holes below my intake to try to help with that but haven't had a lot of time to test that fix since then. please take a look at my short and let me know if you think I'm missing something on my design. I think in that video, I'm using it as a double boiler with the nested cups to keep from scorching the leftover dinner I'm warming up. thanks again for this good design. I'm looking forward to figuring out where I can optimize it better.
How about adding air holes on the bottom of the tin, that way the fire is less smoking less, and can breathe better with slightly more oxygen?
Thanks for sharing more about how the stove works in various ways. I loved the collapsed state. Can't wait to make one.
Enjoyed every minute ... and still the best -> Papa Hiker
Hey Lorent, thanks man!
Im most impressed at the take down method , this is probably the best part of this, can you go into detail about how you did that ?
Hi Carlos, did you mean where the collapsible stove goes into the pot? Or maybe say which minute in the video it was. Kind regards, Papa hiker
@@papahiker9014 normally I have created these out of old tin cans so they retain their shape but I see your design has no bottom so can be rolled up and fitted into the pot.
I would be interested to see how you made it and how you designed it to keep its shape and support the pot when using it.
good ideas!!! i do that with a cuterly tray from Ikea or similar.. Holes for the pegs are there... in different hights.. a slot for the pot handle can be easily made.. ok.. a windshield is sometimes needed.. also a possibility.. have fun outdoors and indoors by creating new ideas! We wait for it! Thanks!
Those cutlery baskets can't really produce a stable chimney-effect, as they have far too many holes.
If I had to guess why this design still works better despite the one side being exposed to cold is the sides being heated is still more surface area than a standard stove design like the others you showed. You're exposing the majority of the pot's surface to heat basically. It's also likely still relatively warm on the exposed side from radiant heat creating an insulating barrier if you will
Merry Christmas Papa Hiker! Thanks for all you have done for the hiking community! Happy Trails! -Barn Cat Gary
@8th sinner to stabilize the base on the can you could create a collapsible Bell Escutcheon that could slide around the bottom of the can with a slit that allows collapsing as well as leaves a gap for the air/lighting access hole.
"mile-minutes" 🤣 You had me laughing.
Thanks for another great video. 🙂
Thanks scoutmaster!
Oh man, about twenty years ago all of Europe changed their currency to Euro. We had to recalculate our guilders (multiply by 2.314 or something) to euro's for more than a year. And then your like: see you in thirty minutes, no 12.4 minutes, no hang on....
I used an old (older than 10yrs -therefore illegal to re-fill) 9kg gas bottle to make a really efficient solid fuel burner. It just needs a 4” angle grinder to make it. Iike all good designs, it draws fresh air in low, heats it up as it’s drawn up to the fuel ‘basket/platform’, which increases fuel combustion and efficiency, best of all, my cast iron camp oven (9quarts?) sits perfectly on top without disturbing the burning fuel. If I want to fry, I use the lid of the camp oven upturned on top of the burner instead (it can also act as a cooker ‘hot plate’ to put pots on if you want them on a slower cooking heat😊👍. It’s just not small enough to fit in your backpack & weighs around 6kg🤔, but it’s great for the garden or Car/van/truck camping. Yours is a really smart design 🔥😎👍.
Hi Billy, that sounds like a super solid and fun thing. Gas cans look very good for this purpose man.
Very eagerly waited for this video.. While i made myself a wood burning stove while waiting, i guess i have to redo mine in collapsible model, capable of burning also alcohol and tabs.. and i am sure my pots will be stainless steel only to save from wood soot.. Thanks for a great tutorial.
Great that you picked it up Rao! Is it working?
In addition to keeping the handle soot free, this stove also keeps the handle cooler to hold I think?
W❤️W! That’s Incredibly Awesome! 🤗❤️✨
7:25 Hahahahaha yes to funny, loved it. I like your Hobo stove good design.
a sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil folded over and over is a great addition as a wind screem.
Aaaaaaaaaawesome!
Thanks Martin!!!!
Have you heard the expression that a watched pot never boils?
Functional with excellent cheapness! I'm making a #10 can version.
Watch out for the conversion between EuroMetric seconds and minutes: the day is the same length as other places in the World, but there are only 10 hours, which are 100 miliHours long (like "minutes"), and each miliHour is further divided into microHours (like seconds). This system is to additionally divide the EuroMetric Zones from God's Own measurement system of SAE as used in historical USA. Confusion in highly technical operations will be increased in any cooperative endeavors, especially in similar-sounding units like microInches and micrometers (confused easily with a tool called a micrometer). ;-)
A Hobo stove can be improved by your taller chimney, as well as by using a pot that is over 2x as wide as full to grab the heat on the underside. Like using a wide 2L pot to boil 1L of water. Lid is important in all boiling operations. Gadget additions to a pot like JetBoil "flux ring" will also transfer more heat. Digging a hole to place stove in and piling dirt or other barrier slows wind losses. This also reduces obvious thermal imaging profile.
Best way to boil water is with FEROCIOUS pointing-up BLOWTORCH whitegas stove like MSR XGK. Maximum btu's output using liquid fuel boils well at 12000 feet above sea level on a glacier. Like carrying the FAL, this system will make your stronger.
Hi! Ah, now I understand why, when Americans throw a ball, Europeans sometimes catch it a second (but which one) early! It's just miscalculation.
Your comment about digging a whole made me go....aha. That sounds like a pretty smart idea.
I can see the benefits of it, but I still don't like it. It relies on a certain level of instability of the pot to begin with, you can probably fix that with properly placed pegs but still. It can't be compressed and there are only so many round shapes can fit into round shapes in the bag. The partial gasification aspect is tempting but not enough to break my interest in my go to. Its also only good for pots of a certain size, which is good if you only need that but I like versatile options, something I can put a wok on just as easily as my 700ti cup.
I just like my honey stove better, it can be made small with 4 sides for a one brew thing and you can easily give it a full chimney capture with a tinfoil cosie, also you can close up the door really easily by using pegs to hold any tabs or alcohol or trangia and clipping it's base over the door. It compresses to flat. It can be expanded from 4 sides to 6 or 8, large enough to hold a basic sweedish stove pattern of wood with a very high heat flame right in the middle. The 4 6 and 8 sided can hold a torch well but the bigger is better at times obviously. which is awesome if you have a good saw, just cut an upto 7 ish inch wide 4 inch thick slice of log split it and you're good even to cook a pizza with.
It is perfectly and stabily able to use trangias, gas stoves, wood, tabs or anything else.
There is no such thing as a perfect anything, they all have their drawbacks and benefits for different situations but I find the versatility of mine outweighs the loss of 60 seconds of btus and boil time. The only and admittedly major issue for some is based on assembly competence with cold hands cause it clips together with slots. But really thats just a practice thing. I've used the same stove through homeless experiences as well as camping for fun. I've done the cold thing to death and this issue just doesn't exist for me.
I like the honey stove for the same reason I like a tarp over a tent, it can do just do more.
A second pin fixes stability which you could also use differently if you want. What I mean is cut to the right size you could tipi two pin/rods inside the can using the sidewall to support them. This would also provide a stable base. I can't describe it better than that but regardless the two pins instead of one also works if you do hikes like he did
@@Thee-_-Outlier I think I get what you're saying, for thru hikers and super light set ups its not a bad system and theres probably a few other tweaks to be made.
1.6 american minutes divided by ...........
@papahiker9041 I built one of these, th-cam.com/users/shortsPP0QGj6uKP4?feature=share I made mine with a 3 lb bean can and use nesting 0.9L and 0.75L nesting cups and I love how well it nests in my edc bag. I use it for cooking lunch and plan to carry it when hunting and fishing and camping if I'm not carrying my bigger Biolite stove and grill. I had hoped this would be a good alternative to a Kelley kettle and in some ways it is, I can cook in it without having to carry extra pots, because it nests with my water bottle it's very size efficient compared to the Kelley kettle. it is very good in windy conditions like the KK, and I think it's probably a lighter system all together depending on what I'm using to store my water in. Also, I have the freedom to swap out my water bottle from a very light weight 1.5 L smart style water bottle for large capacity, or a 1 L insulated bottle for carrying hot or cold beverages. my question is, I had hoped it would be close to the KK in terms of time to boil for small quantities of water and it seems that base on the videos I've seen of the KK, mine is much slower. I don't know if it's a factor of my draught/chimney/intake size ratio, or that I'm using such a large bottomed pot that most of the heat is being wasted on the side walls when I'm just doing enough water for my coffee or something else. I have noticed that with my intake being a bit off the floor there's not good airflow at the bottom of my stove and I don't get good burn down there, I've added some holes below my intake to try to help with that but haven't had a lot of time to test that fix since then. please take a look at my short and let me know if you think I'm missing something on my design. I think in that video, I'm using it as a double boiler with the nested cups to keep from scorching the leftover dinner I'm warming up. thanks again for this good design. I'm looking forward to figuring out where I can optimize it better.