I race in a series that requires “stock valve sizes and location “. I put the 1.54 GT40 exhaust Valve on the P heads. After unshrouding, working the exhaust side and slight work to the intake side it flowed 238 CFM intake, 173 CFM exhaust. A custom solid cam with a Victor intake, 750 Holley. I got 431 hp and 348 ft/lbs at the crank. Stock 302 Explorer bottom end and 9.6 CR. Have less the 1250.00 dollars in the entire motor. This is old school work. I basically did everything he did just used GT40 Valves.
In my circle track class, we have similar rules as well. I’m planning on cheating a bit, but no one knows what fords are. I’m thinking about building a.060 over 347 with the Aussie Cleveland heads.
Back in the 80s bought a very angry 302 that was built by the Ford wizard at a place called Kirn Auto parts in St Louis, he used 69 or 70 351 heads with Chevy valves, 1.64 and 1.90 I believe and.....still rivals new heads and did an insane flow job on them. Has a boss block, crank, worked over rods... that was 13/1, pulled hard to 9000! I detuned it a bit but as retirement nears I may return it to its most angriest mode. Restored my 68 Cougar in the 90s, now it's ready to handle 600hp, stiffened up the car ALOT. Good luck on those, should turn out great and very responsive, great video also.
You talked about the problem with the GT40 heads is the spark plug angle making it hard to find headers or performance manifolds that work with this spark plug angle. I have a 1969 Fairlane 500 Sportsroof with a 302 with GT40P heads on it and it also has a pair on 1964 289 K-Code cast manifolds on it which give good clearance to the spark plug wire. I am using a straight boot wire with no interference issues.
I don't see why anyone would leave a negative comment for any of your vids, all I've ever seen is honesty and a wealth of knowledge, you seem to be a straight shooter and don't take any bs, especially with the Ford vs Chevy guys. Keep these great vids coming!
I built cylinder heads for about 10 years and I used a Sertie 100 for bowl work and valve jobs. I used to stone grind the seats for better sealing and I used to draw my 60 degree angle up to my 45. I would leave about 0.020-0.030 wide 45 degree margin. I used to machine SBC double humps and SBF for screw in studs and guide plates and bigger valves. Used to have to drill out push rod holes on SBC for larger diameter push rods, cut the valve spring pads on SBC. SBF all I had to do was machine the OD of the valve guide 0.530 and sweep that shoulder for Dual valve springs. Ford was so much easier to build than SBC as far as machine work. I really enjoy watching your videos. Brings back shop memories of building race motors.
I'm doing a 289, with a 302 crank , rods & DSS pistons. World jr heads (thinking about chevy valve swap). I decided on Shaft mounted Roller Rockers - sets of 2 each rockers ! I was a hotrodder back since I got my lic. in 1976, which makes it is so cool to have so many choices for the old cast engines of any MFG for all us old school dudes. I like to have more power then I really need
Nice series for us ford guys. Gt40 and Gt40P heads are essentially 351 windsor heads...The ultimate factory swap would be a set of DOOE casting 1970 351w heads..These were 58cc chamber heads...No special headers..an increase in compression and the same air flow upgrade as the GT40 heads.👍
The early heads are a great upgrade, but getting harder to find in usable condition. The beauty of the later heads (other than availability) is the modern ports, and excellent chambers (especially the P heads) making for a much more efficient and complete burn. I have a set that spec'd out at a little over 59cc. A 1970 head is almost certainly going to need work - low mileage Explorers are easy to find. Pull the heads, freshen them up with seals and good springs, open up the head bolt holes and they're ready to go. And as mentioned in the video, headers are not that much of an issue anymore either, especially with GT40 heads.
Me and my grandfather are building up my 1994 cobra. Using gt40p heads and a x303 cam on top of all the Bolton's that we've installed. Hes taught me all the old school tried and true ways of making power. Air flow and fuel = power which is why you get good heads and a good cam. If you wanna stay NA then that's how to do it.
Our second father/son muscle car build is all about finding performance out of OEM parts (The spirit of hotrodding) for our Windsor 302 build. That’s how I found this video. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. It’s helping this once strictly GM guy create a plan for this Ford build. Subscribed!
Great tips! My 289 has the 351w heads, the ports were cleaned up and everything you showed. I now understand everything my machinist was explaining years ago.
@@Myvintageiron7512 So I have a 289 block , I also have an edelbrock intake with dual auto lite carbs setup , and I have a 351 block with heads too. So if I were to use the 289 block with the 351 heads, I can’t use the dual carbs setup right ? Just checking to see which avenue to go . Any advice would be appreciated. Ty
Hey, your videos are amazing. I've been searching for a long time for a solid build and teardown video and this finally hit the mark. No major skips, you don't just wave over half the build, and you give tons of knowledge THAT I WILL BE USING and passing on to my brother. One critique though, I would LOVE if you could include parts you changed in your video description under the videos. Makes it alot easier than sifting through the videos for those of us who want to compile and purchase a parts list to minimize down time. TY 🤗👍
I’ve just rebuilt a stroked 351 Cleveland with AFD heads. Well known and respected builder and installer. It overheated. Took it back - no apparent problem to explain the overheating ...... Eventually I checked the ignition timing - 26 degrees of advance at idle. Backed it off to 25 degrees with a different advance curve - problem solved and a more responsive bottom end, just as much (502hp) at the top. I guess your mate with his overheating issue has tried timing fixes? If not, maybe he could? Just a thought. Live your videos - keep them coming please!
Love your work, very informative. I've been into Fords since a teenager, I'm 68 now and still get excited when I see Ford motors being worked on. Keep up the good work. I have a 351 W to be worked on. I'm so excited now that I've seen you use your skills in restoring your Ford motors. Thanks
The early restrictive heads were great for everyday driving around town on 2-barrel engines, though. Small ports = great port velocity and drive-ability below 4000 rpm.
That's why guys like Ben Alameda learned tricks such as pressing in pushrod sleeves to enable opening up the intake ports further, he has gotten some serious power from stock castings.
I used 1970 351 Windsor heads on my 302. I ported them , mostly on the exhaust. Cheap way to make power as I only paid $50.00 for the pair, then had a valve job done.
@@leroyvandyke3798 C9-D0 castings, 1969-1970 351W only. The C9 casting has a 58cc chamber, while the D0 has a 60cc chamber. Either can easily be milled to 55cc.
i had this problem with my 289 Mustang for a long time. I bought it from a guy in LA who street raced it A lot of the time you ask questions and listen to knowledgeable people and they talk crap. I knew the engine had been stroked with a racing cam big fat springs etc. and I knew that was at the root of the problem. I'd tell mechanics that the high lifting cam was producing more work and in turn more heat. And everytime they'd say theres no way and the problem was elsewhere. So what I'm getting at is this: If an engine is doing more work it will produce more heat. If it produced more heat it needs more cooling power. So now I've slim Spal puller and a Moroso pusher on the front rad. And a radiator filter. I've found that any rusty crud that goes in the radiator will significantly reduce cooling capacity. Look after these things and they'll look after you. Ignore what people say except me! And don't listen to anyone who has no idea what the first and the second laws of thermodynamics say. I live in London and so being stuck in traffic compounds the problem in the last week of July when everyone is trying to get out the city all locked in jams going into tunnels watching the temp needle rise ever so slowly and inexorably.
Just discovered your channel. What's hilarious is that on most any forum these heads come up for discussion and all the discussion goes immediately to throwing these away and spending $700-1200 on aftermarket heads. All well and good if you have that money just laying around to add to the rest of the money you have in the build. I also watch Richard Holdener's channel. He doesn't go into the fantastic detail you do with the machining, but he echoes what you said about valve springs on these heads. His dyno runs on these heads show a lot of improvement from better springs. It's actually given them a reputation for having worse performance at higher rpm ranges than they deserve. Evidently even the cam mfrs have gone weak on spring recommendation for the roller cam motors in the past.
One of my pet peeves is someone asking for advice about GT40/GT40P heads, and making it clear they're on a budget and only looking for a mild performance boost, only to be bombarded with "those heads are garbage" and "get you some AFRs". Nobody tries to make stuff work anymore, and they love to spend other people's money. Or my favorite - "nobody makes headers that fit" 🙄
@@timcornock8232 effectively they're saying "you should just spend 4 times as much money for heads." Great idea...where will I find 4 times the money for heads?"
Best advanced "How to" video I've saw on SBF heads. I have a set of GTP's and E7's sitting in the shop. I'm heading out now to do comparisons and to find a couple junk heads to practice on. Hopefully I'll be able to locate some of those shop cutters and measuring aids to get as close as possible. Thanks for the motivation by being clear, concise, and easy to follow along with. For some reason your way of speaking jives with my ADD. I was totally engaged until the end. SUPER rare. Good stuff. Keep it up!
In the late '60s, the HOT set up was a 302 "Windsor" using "Windsor 351" heads with the Chevy valves. Valley Head Service had a complete kit to allow use of the Chevy valves. The kit included special push rod guide plates and stainless "swirl polished" valves with the exhaust valves being sodium filled. This set up produced a significant increase in power, however there was a BIG problem getting enough lubrication to the guide plates and keeping the push rods lubricated. After a few thousand miles, things got noisy in the head area, even though the engine seemed to run fine. I did upgrade the oil pump, but the "squeaking" didn't go away! It appears that not enough thought was put into designing those guide plates.
first, love the video content. been watching for years. Been building small block Ford's for many years now, you let all the cheap secrets out! actually, thank you for showing this as it it really a good way to upgrade an early 289/302 engine. The late heads have hard exhaust seats that still maintain hardness with the Chevy 1.50 valve package and honestly the pedestal mount rocker setup is really goo up to .550 or so lift with good stability. Junkyard/parts store upgrade for people out there: use late 460 1.7 ratio pedestal rockers on the stock head for a valve lift increase. Of course, make sure your retainer to guide and seal clearance/spring bind can handle it. I normally cut the 1.94 valves down to 1.90 as they seem to fit better and less cutting on the bowl but for a gt40/p head it fits ok. The 289 heads you showed there I think are the 2 barrel 68 289/302 heads, 1 or 2 years only until they went to the standard 58.2cc heads through 76 then went pedestal mount and big chambers like the D80E you mentioned. For the bottom end, you said it's a budget build, take a look at the sealed power/speed pro H120cp pistons. Cast/Hypereutectic design(.0015 skirt to wall, late metric 1.5/1.5mm ring pack, 1.605" compression height and flat top with two generous valve reliefs. gets you closer to zero deck without a lot of cutting of the deck. Also can setup for floating pin. Cannot wait to see the cam specs, assume since it's mild cruiser it will be 210@.050 or less with just over .500 lift. should run really well, and a performer RPM intake would wake it up!!! thanks for all the hard work.
@@blackbrass1973 check the cast #,s. 71 was fuel crisis.. no performance there.. cheapest best engine to build. iether stock 460, with flat tops. or 351c, with 302c heads. 12.1 comp, run lpg. had this in bronco for 14 yrs, no problems. stock cam, kills cars.. only windsor id have would be the 351w with 351c heads.. mate had a 302w falcon, ran around 15,s. other mate had a built 4.1, i6 cyl, on lpg, running 10,s.. early block with alloy swerl head. v8 guys not happy.. ausie..[ here chev guys dreamed of clevo valves,heads. chevs garbage.].
The wisdom you have is priceless. You’ve probably forgotten more about engines and cars than most folk know. Master Mechanic for Shure. You rock Man. 👍🏼
This video is so on the money. GT40P heads really good factory head for a 289. Think they run a different exhaust setup though. We use these heads on our later 5.0's in Australia and they did well if you didn't want to go alloy.
Your attention to detail and the way you explain things makes it very easy to understand, unlike other videos out there. I have an 09 4 L ranger and its never let me down, and I try to take really good care of it. your videos have helped me in the past, especially the ones where you touch on the LS platform. So i just want to say thank you very much
Got a set of these on the bench now porting and installing for my neighbor. He’s got a 95 gt with a lunati cam, edelbrock performer efi intake, and all the other usual bolt on’s. Well we got a set of the gt40 3 bar heads but pretty much as you said the same thing except a little compression difference and spark plug angle. Picked them up with some crane 1.7rr with Alex springs for $450 which I think was a great deal and beat the eBay aluminum heads he was kinda eyeballing. Definitely all he was missing was a decent set of heads since those e7’s are literally choking his engine down especially after 4k rpm
Thank you for doing it. I have always worked on FE's & 429/460's & I have alot of knowledge on those engines but small ford have been mostly just general knowledge. I recently bought a very nice 86 f150 2wd & it has a 5.0 fi engine & im wanting to do some work to it. Mild cam for the street & I was thinking gt 40p heads. So this was very knowledgeable for me. Thank you sir.
Sounds like my '67 Cougar it turned out to be what looked like crystalized honey blocking the water pump from circulating coolant, chiseled all that out, replaced the pump and it was golden.
Good info man thank you.i had a 68 mercury with a 302..first thing I got when getting ready to rebuild was an erson cam withroller rockers and a set of dart heads with 2.02intake and 1.60 exhaust.specs on cam were.504 lift,306° adv.duration.108°lobe center.gear drive 10.5:1 k.b's.single plane intake,3000 rpm stall.650 Holley and Mallory ignition.i though it would be a little more streetabl..it was baddass though.i watched your how to pic cam video not too long ago..i guess a different lobe center and little less duration would have been a little more tame..live your show.thanks
On the p heads put 90° boots on the spark plug wires that are close and run whatever headers you want. Iv been messing with foxbody mustabgs for over 20 years been there done that 😉
The C9oe's came in a 302 variant as well, both the same. 58cc combustion chambers and pretty sizable ports, skimped on the valves. Got a set in the shop right now.
This is my kind of content! Good ol budget cylinder head improvements. Starting with the GT40P heads puts you about 40 cfm ahead on the intake compared to E7 heads.
I had a 302 with e7te heads im fairly sure in a fox and that motor just felt choked above 3000 rpm. I drove one with gt40 maybe gt40p heads explorer intake and the small ford letter cam. The difference was night and day between the two to me. Well worth doing.
Great video!! I have a 71 F-100, 302, 4sp. It's my bucket list on a budget truck. I can turn a wrench when I'm not punching a keyboard. I'm been thinking about an engine swap or rebuild. Not looking for crazy HP but a step up from stock. I'm now leaning on a rebuild. ~ Thank you!
I rebuilt a 302 from a 69 Mustang when I was a teen. I noticed the heads had these silly looking large bumps in the exhaust ports. It didn't have a smog pump or anything (built before that). I don't know if it made a difference, but I ground them off, just because I didn't want anything without a purpose. At the time, it was easy to find high performance parts. The machine shop I went to had a bunch of Boss 302 blocks sitting in a corner.
top quality advice here i love it, i have a 302 that came with aftermarket edelbrock heads but id love to pickup a fox body and throw these heads youve recommended on them
They are really good heads,I have a pair of GT-40 3 BAR HEADS. Not gt-40 p 4 bar heads. Running a ford b-cam with 1.7 roller rockers. Car runs hard,pulls strong to about 6,200 rpm. Nice little street car.
I am sure you two fellows have probably solved the overheating problem in the early small block mustang. It brings to mind the problem my friend had with his early Mustang and it turned out to be that the water pump and fan blade were running reverse rotation. It was on his car for two years before he found the problem. Ford started using reverse rotation water pumps in 1979 With the introduction of the serpentine belt.
It kind of sucks that production ford heads aren't that great, a good set of aftermarket heads work so much better but if ur on a budget your really limited with what u can run, at least with chevys the early heads flowed decent but the late 70s-early 90s heads were trash and the vortec flow really well. I would have thought that the 60s ford heads would have been good being that those early engines ran on leaded gas and there weren't many emissions laws then. Thank you for taking the time to make this video, a friend of mine has been trying to hop up his 302 in his mud truck and he lucked out and bought a loaded set of world products heads for $500. I learned alot from this, it will help on future builds.
First I just want to say that your information and your video is very good and informative but I'll also like to point out that the head you're showing their for the early 289 2-V open chamber head which which were widely used and junk! You need to compare that head to the 289 4-V Head! Is a closed chamber 52 - 54 CC, same as the 289 hipo for the "K" engine! I've been running the hypo heads to this day and have a 289 in my 70 Maverick and in my 66 a code fastback! I never did much work to the intake Port just cleaned it up, ran a 1.940 intake valve and a 1.625 exhaust valve which is all that will fit in those heads!!! Barely!!! I did extensive work on the bulls or valve pockets, special attention to the short-turn and raise the port top made a "D" port on the top of the port! I don't put all of my faith in flow testing! But rather in results horsepower and winning races!!! I was making and still am making 400 to 500 HP out of a hypo 289 board 4.030 to a 292 CID. Depending on cam, intake and compression, I run the old TRW forged 12.5 to 1 compression to 13.5 to 1 compression depending on the head and gasket used! With 100 octane fuel, and a modest 125 horse of nitrous oxide, I was pushing 600 horsepower on these old motors! I think we've gone as far as we can go with the 66 style head and hypo 289! But don't sell those heads short! I like closed chamber heads even on big block Chevy's I've now gone up to a 331 CID, still at 12.5 to 1 compression with a good aluminum cylinder head! "Not AFR!!!" And we're knocking at the door of 800 HP!!! The 289 that's in my 66 fastback right now has been in the car since 1984 took the heads off once for a blown head gasket!!! And that should cover my reliability Factor! I was just asking you to do a little more research and don't sell them old engines short!!! 🤔. Thank you! 🤠👍.
Back in the mid 70s i had a buddy in high school that his dad owned a machine shop. They put a set of 202 chevy valves in a 289 head. That Fairlane ran like a stripped ape. Edlebrock intake 600 holley and headers with a small cam.
Since most people don't have a machinist friend to do this work for free it would make more sense to buy aftermarket head's I think,seems like a lot of work when you can buy one that works out the box.i have a 1993 f150 302 I have been wanting a head upgrade but that leads to camshaft being replaced and a host of other issues.its never just heads.
well like I said at the end you do not need to do all this work I am just showing what's possible and even at that your still only into these heads about $750.00 with all this work well below Aftermarket heads if you pull these out of a bone yard clean em up add springs and stem seals/ lap the valves your in them for less than $300.00 and your bolting on true seat of the paints performance it's pretty hard to tell a guy with a $300 budget to just go ahead and lay out 12 to 15 hundred for aftermarket heads and then there's the roller rockers and hardened push rods required that's another 4 to 5 hundred now your pushing 2K
@@Myvintageiron7512 300$ budget is pretty low. to do anything with any engine would be nothing short of a miracle.my seals cost me more than that and I bought em (acap) as cheap as possible.
Good video. I have a 97 OBS F250 with a 351W that I’m going to be rebuilding soon. This will be my first Ford engine build so your videos are a big help.
Using ported 68 J code 4v 302 heads they come with factory screw in studs, installed bigger Ferrea 5000 series valves 1.94 -1.60 , they measure out at 160cc intake, and 65cc exhaust with really only pocket porting done to them 54cc combustion chambers, the exhaust I opened up quite a bit, springs are 125lbs at seat, my net lift with 1.6 rockers is .551, port size is great for mid upper end power, but there is something to be said for power down in the rev range with smaller ports, that can still flow decent numbers. The P heads are Ford final answer on the small block!
Ford Australia did the big valve GT40p heads for my 2001 Falcon XR8 220kw model (295hp) ! They fitted the bigger 1.94/1.54 valves from the Alloy GT40 SVO heads !!
I just bought a foxbody mustang and would like to add more HP to it, keeping it naturally aspirated. This was a great video explaining about the heads. Impressive knowledge, and way over my head, but trying to at least learn. Currently my limit of knowledge is putting gas in the car!
I have 2 289's from 2 different 1967 Mercury Cougar's I also had ghost overheating issues in one that turned out to be possibly left over casting sand from the block or block sealer that had blocked the water passages to the water pump. I rodded out the radiator, replaced the thermostat, etc. Still it overheated, I pulled the water pump and found something resembling crystalized honey about an inch or more thick blocking the water passages to the actually working water pump.
A friend of mine had a 68 Mustang and with stock heads he was outrunning almost everything in town.. His was a Windsor with a Edelbrock torquer manifold and a Holly 600 and headers. It would fly. No one believed it was a small block
I replaced my E7s on a 92 F250 with the Brodix ST 5.0 heads. Haven`t put the engine on dyno yet to see the real difference, but my bet is that it`s a pretty good upgrade.
Nice work! I'm in the process of doing this same thing right now, just without the valve size upgrade. (No friend with machine shop! That's $750 worth of machining around here!) LOL. Keep up the great work!
W O W..... Can't believe I heard you say " there is no reason to build a, go fast old car"" I am reminding you... because you have obviously lost you mind!!! 😂🤣 Its not about racing....its not about going fast!! Its about the total diving experience!! The rumble The sound The smell The looks you get! The pride.. The history And yes!! The burnouts!! 😂🤣🤣😂🤣 I am totally being funny...
Doesn't matter if you are a Ford or chevy guy, both companies have made some very solid engines...the 289 and 302 Ford engines have more than earned their places, as has the ls platform from chevy. Both can make nice power and be reliable. I will always prefer the higher revving smallblock ford's, but I love the low end torque from the ls and lt platforms
You may find that you need to spot face those pedestals down to get proper valvetrain geometry. It's not uncommon to need to take ~.250 off the pedestal to account for the height difference between the studs+hex and the original pedestal rockers. Often what happens is that the pushrod is lengthened to account for lack of adjustment, leading to improper sweep on the valve tip. I saw this exact scenario in a 302 that was in a GT40.
wow! super detailed. Although I have no way of doing that kinda of work with my cars, it brings a nice perspective and understanding of "why does it cost so munch"?....lol
The Gt40p also has 4 bars on the front of the head and also has different plug angle as well as to where the gt40 just has 3. The E7TE H.O. heads were also a good upgrade over the early style heads but not as good as the GT40s. Most of the early heads were set up for economy and used 2 barrel carbs for was more big block performance oriented back in those days then later on in the 80s and 90s the small blocks came on performance. But now days man if you have a few more dollars to spend just go with a good quality aluminum and be done with it but for budget builds the GT40s are the way to go and can still be found here and there.
Your buddy’s 289 had 302 heads. Probably 1970 castings. Low perf 2 barrel 289 heads had a nice small triangle shaped chamber as did the first year 302. 1968 I believe.
I’ve got a 69 F100 with a 302 and I’ve been thinking about doing the GTP head swap and now I’m going to once I find a set and a new short block so I can build a engine and enjoy the truck while I’m getting it built
OK..... You've got me eating my words!! 😜 Back to my first comment much earlier, I said that the E7s were the go-to Heads for us, back in the day.... I also said that I haven't been under the Hood of a performance Car in over two Decades... DID NOT know about the GT40 or GT40P Heads!!! 😳 You just taught this Old Dawg a new trick! THESE are the Heads that I want. I'm not even offended by your using CHEVY Valves! 😜 I'm actually surprised and amazed at how they seem to have the same Stem size, and the SAME installed height. I really have been out of the game for too long!! I gotta ask though, is there ANY benefit to using the larger Chevy Exhaust Valves and the STOCK Ford Intake Valves?? And GAWD!! I've always dreamed of having a Shop as well equipped as yours. You probably even have Sunnen Honing, Boring AND Line Honing Machines!! I swear I'd give my left NUT to have just one week in there. I've already inundated you with comments! 😖 I'm just going to watch the rest of this Series. Even though I've done a LOT of Ford Small Block builds.... I'm now SURE you're going to teach me something else new before I'm done. Subscribed too. 😉 Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Ford lowered the compression ratio on the 68 289 2bbl engine that's why it was rated 5hp less than the earlier motors and it was the last year the 289 was offered in the Mustang. My son in law owns a 68 fastback with the 289 that we swapped a 95 roller motor into
First of all it doesn’t matter what brand people are driving all your content is bang on. I am in the process of rebuilding an 89 Foxbody convertible. Heard all the good things these GT 40 intake and heads can do ( in the process of tracking some down ). I want to try to get 300/350 hp out of it with stock bottom end. Plan is Gt40 heads, intake, new springs and 1.6 or 1.7 rockers. Any tips you may have other that? Better camshaft? Looking forward to you continuing this series, great job brother!
I would definitely look at some cam options you can do much better than stock other than that your on the right track you will not be disappointed with GT40 package
Someone else asked about the springs, I didn't see an answer. But I would also love to know the cam and spring part numbers you used. Great job with the video. You might have mentioned that the 3-bar GT40 heads don't have the header issue the 4-bar P heads have. The 3-bar were 96 and early 97 Explorers.
I'm not sure what springs I used at this point, what I will say is when you do select a cam you will need to get a spring that the cam supplier recommends for their cam, they will give you a part number or simply buy a kit with the springs included that's how we did this job
A little exhaust port opening work and a Shelby 289/302 HP spec cam really wake up these small block Fords on a budget. Have you considered a better intake manifold over stock? A used one can be found on a budget. You're looking at 100 horse upgrade. The customer will certainly be surprised with the power, with good idle and vacuum for power accessories. Good luck
On the gt40 3 bar heads, have you had a issue with the height of the intake different than the exhaust height. When I went to change the springs I couldn't use the comp cam springs that came with the set.I had to find a different spring with retainers and locks to level both of them out.Looking at the old springs one was slightly taller than the other.Its kind of funny when I explained this to the comp cam tech he had no clue on how to address the problem.He told me to machine down the tall side. Alex's parts sold me valve spring kit VSK7hb48-f that worked with my cam size that I bought from comp cam.My 351w with this cam and dual plane intake with headers and a 750 carb work great.I did a complete rebuild on the motor .040 bore turned the crank with all new fasteners and reshaped rods. Removed all the pollution control stuff I think at a guess I'd say the motor gained a 100 hp . I used the biggest cam .456 lift I could without changing my stock torque converter.With my 3.90 gear she really takes off well.Hoping to run in the 14 second quarter mile with my 87 f150 short bed truck.Really enjoyed the information keep up the good work.
@@Myvintageiron7512 ok that's makes sense.I didn't change the valves just had the machine shop clean up the factory one's.I wished this video was done about a year and half ago.I would have done things differently.Drilling out the rocker arm stud mounts would have been a big help.Your right on the money about the 5/16 holes being to small.I was afraid of breaking them off when I installed the stud mounts. I even used a tool made special to install them.Thanks for your expertise.I like watching people who really know what there doing and can explain it so I can get a understanding of the process.
This doesn't have anything to do with Ford engines, but I love your videos man. Im teaching myself everything I can about engine building and your videos have been a huge help. Do you ever build old straight 6's? I'd love to see you do a 292 build some day.
I have a 1967 Chevy biscayne with stock 350 out of 90s truck I’m not concerned with it being fast just sound good run good. Neat old car yes my f150 with 2.7l eco boost is fast as crap. So no need to worry about making old car fast reliable is where it’s at.
Which is why I like my old junk. I may daily a modified 370Z, but my '64 mercury with a Ford 289 is quite trustworthy as is the 351W in my boat, alongside the 77 camaro with the malaise-y 305.
THANK YOU GREATLY! love your videos, especially how to select the correct cam, if i could ask a favor, give us the info on the 5.4 3v like you did for the 4.8 5.3 and 6.0 ls motors, I would pay dearly...... Thank You
Love your videos. I know you are a busy guy was wondering what cam you would recommend. Building a stock 5.0. Roller Cam. 1997. Crank and cylinders are in spec got the gt40p heads Want to clean ports run stock size valves and try to make it breath a little better. also using stock pistons and stock fuel injection. Don't want a hot rod just want to get a little more hp and torque. Thanks and keep making videos.
I race in a series that requires “stock valve sizes and location “. I put the 1.54 GT40 exhaust Valve on the P heads. After unshrouding, working the exhaust side and slight work to the intake side it flowed 238 CFM intake, 173 CFM exhaust. A custom solid cam with a Victor intake, 750 Holley. I got 431 hp and 348 ft/lbs at the crank. Stock 302 Explorer bottom end and 9.6 CR. Have less the 1250.00 dollars in the entire motor. This is old school work. I basically did everything he did just used GT40 Valves.
In my circle track class, we have similar rules as well. I’m planning on cheating a bit, but no one knows what fords are. I’m thinking about building a.060 over 347 with the Aussie Cleveland heads.
238/173 cfm heads have the potential to make 360hp. 🤔
How long does it take to install the 5.7 hemi 2009 cam kit my car has been and the shop almost three weeks
Had truck trouble,. Yesterday, going to try again in a minute _everything good your way?
Nice P head
Back in the 80s bought a very angry 302 that was built by the Ford wizard at a place called Kirn Auto parts in St Louis, he used 69 or 70 351 heads with Chevy valves, 1.64 and 1.90 I believe and.....still rivals new heads and did an insane flow job on them. Has a boss block, crank, worked over rods... that was 13/1, pulled hard to 9000! I detuned it a bit but as retirement nears I may return it to its most angriest mode. Restored my 68 Cougar in the 90s, now it's ready to handle 600hp, stiffened up the car ALOT. Good luck on those, should turn out great and very responsive, great video also.
You talked about the problem with the GT40 heads is the spark plug angle making it hard to find headers or performance manifolds that work with this spark plug angle. I have a 1969 Fairlane 500 Sportsroof with a 302 with GT40P heads on it and it also has a pair on 1964 289 K-Code cast manifolds on it which give good clearance to the spark plug wire. I am using a straight boot wire with no interference issues.
I don't see why anyone would leave a negative comment for any of your vids, all I've ever seen is honesty and a wealth of knowledge, you seem to be a straight shooter and don't take any bs, especially with the Ford vs Chevy guys. Keep these great vids coming!
Thanks that means allot
F150 5.4 3v cam info please
This dude is awesome not only in video, but in person. Very willing to help out and will explain anything and everything to a detailed science.
Brand rivalries are healthy. Such rivalries is why NASCAR became so popular back in the 60’s.
@@Myvintageiron7512 pl
Dude your voice I swear is an exact duplicate of Jeff Daniels the actor. I swear you can take his place in any cartoon voiceover lol
It’s cool when you do Ford engines keep it going 👍
More to come!
yup I need an anchor for my drag boat
00⁰⁰0
What size Chevy valves did you install??
@@tomschweikert9537 drag boat?? You got ru paul on there?
I built cylinder heads for about 10 years and I used a Sertie 100 for bowl work and valve jobs. I used to stone grind the seats for better sealing and I used to draw my 60 degree angle up to my 45. I would leave about 0.020-0.030 wide 45 degree margin. I used to machine SBC double humps and SBF for screw in studs and guide plates and bigger valves. Used to have to drill out push rod holes on SBC for larger diameter push rods, cut the valve spring pads on SBC.
SBF all I had to do was machine the OD of the valve guide 0.530 and sweep that shoulder for Dual valve springs. Ford was so much easier to build than SBC as far as machine work. I really enjoy watching your videos. Brings back shop memories of building race motors.
Why are fords more expensive to build bud ?
i hear this alot cheers.
I'm doing a 289, with a 302 crank , rods & DSS pistons. World jr heads (thinking about chevy valve swap). I decided on Shaft mounted Roller Rockers - sets of 2 each rockers ! I was a hotrodder back since I got my lic. in 1976, which makes it is so cool to have so many choices for the old cast engines of any MFG for all us old school dudes. I like to have more power then I really need
Nice series for us ford guys.
Gt40 and Gt40P heads are essentially 351 windsor heads...The ultimate factory swap would be a set of DOOE casting 1970 351w heads..These were 58cc chamber heads...No special headers..an increase in compression and the same air flow upgrade as the GT40 heads.👍
The early heads are a great upgrade, but getting harder to find in usable condition. The beauty of the later heads (other than availability) is the modern ports, and excellent chambers (especially the P heads) making for a much more efficient and complete burn. I have a set that spec'd out at a little over 59cc.
A 1970 head is almost certainly going to need work - low mileage Explorers are easy to find. Pull the heads, freshen them up with seals and good springs, open up the head bolt holes and they're ready to go. And as mentioned in the video, headers are not that much of an issue anymore either, especially with GT40 heads.
Me and my grandfather are building up my 1994 cobra. Using gt40p heads and a x303 cam on top of all the Bolton's that we've installed. Hes taught me all the old school tried and true ways of making power. Air flow and fuel = power which is why you get good heads and a good cam. If you wanna stay NA then that's how to do it.
A 94 cobra should have come with GT-40 3 BAR HEADS from the factory. Not GT-40 P,4 bar heads! And 1.72 roller rockers from crane....
Our second father/son muscle car build is all about finding performance out of OEM parts (The spirit of hotrodding) for our Windsor 302 build. That’s how I found this video. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. It’s helping this once strictly GM guy create a plan for this Ford build. Subscribed!
Great tips! My 289 has the 351w heads, the ports were cleaned up and everything you showed. I now understand everything my machinist was explaining years ago.
cool
@@Myvintageiron7512 So I have a 289 block , I also have an edelbrock intake with dual auto lite carbs setup , and I have a 351 block with heads too. So if I were to use the 289 block with the 351 heads, I can’t use the dual carbs setup right ? Just checking to see which avenue to go . Any advice would be appreciated. Ty
This is my car that engine went into and I gotta say I am very pleased with the results.
Hey, your videos are amazing. I've been searching for a long time for a solid build and teardown video and this finally hit the mark. No major skips, you don't just wave over half the build, and you give tons of knowledge THAT I WILL BE USING and passing on to my brother. One critique though, I would LOVE if you could include parts you changed in your video description under the videos. Makes it alot easier than sifting through the videos for those of us who want to compile and purchase a parts list to minimize down time. TY 🤗👍
I’ve just rebuilt a stroked 351 Cleveland with AFD heads. Well known and respected builder and installer. It overheated. Took it back - no apparent problem to explain the overheating ......
Eventually I checked the ignition timing - 26 degrees of advance at idle. Backed it off to 25 degrees with a different advance curve - problem solved and a more responsive bottom end, just as much (502hp) at the top.
I guess your mate with his overheating issue has tried timing fixes? If not, maybe he could? Just a thought.
Live your videos - keep them coming please!
That should have read -“backed it off to 15 degrees”. Sorry- damn typos!
Love your work, very informative. I've been into Fords since a teenager, I'm 68 now and still get excited when I see Ford motors being worked on. Keep up the good work. I have a 351 W to be worked on. I'm so excited now that I've seen you use your skills in restoring your Ford motors. Thanks
git her done! I have one snuggled into my 1970 mustang and it's awesome!!!
The early restrictive heads were great for everyday driving around town on 2-barrel engines, though. Small ports = great port velocity and drive-ability below 4000 rpm.
Who wants to be all done at 4000 RPMs though? 🤷🏻
That's why guys like Ben Alameda learned tricks such as pressing in pushrod sleeves to enable opening up the intake ports further, he has gotten some serious power from stock castings.
I used 1970 351 Windsor heads on my 302. I ported them , mostly on the exhaust. Cheap way to make power as I only paid $50.00 for the pair, then had a valve job done.
How late can you go on the 351 heads? Or is it just the ‘70 heads that will work with the 302? I’ve got a ‘68 Cougar.
@@leroyvandyke3798 C9-D0 castings, 1969-1970 351W only. The C9 casting has a 58cc chamber, while the D0 has a 60cc chamber. Either can easily be milled to 55cc.
i had this problem with my 289 Mustang for a long time. I bought it from a guy in LA who street raced it A lot of the time you ask questions and listen to knowledgeable people and they talk crap. I knew the engine had been stroked with a racing cam big fat springs etc. and I knew that was at the root of the problem. I'd tell mechanics that the high lifting cam was producing more work and in turn more heat. And everytime they'd say theres no way and the problem was elsewhere. So what I'm getting at is this: If an engine is doing more work it will produce more heat. If it produced more heat it needs more cooling power. So now I've slim Spal puller and a Moroso pusher on the front rad. And a radiator filter. I've found that any rusty crud that goes in the radiator will significantly reduce cooling capacity. Look after these things and they'll look after you. Ignore what people say except me! And don't listen to anyone who has no idea what the first and the second laws of thermodynamics say. I live in London and so being stuck in traffic compounds the problem in the last week of July when everyone is trying to get out the city all locked in jams going into tunnels watching the temp needle rise ever so slowly and inexorably.
Just discovered your channel. What's hilarious is that on most any forum these heads come up for discussion and all the discussion goes immediately to throwing these away and spending $700-1200 on aftermarket heads. All well and good if you have that money just laying around to add to the rest of the money you have in the build. I also watch Richard Holdener's channel. He doesn't go into the fantastic detail you do with the machining, but he echoes what you said about valve springs on these heads. His dyno runs on these heads show a lot of improvement from better springs. It's actually given them a reputation for having worse performance at higher rpm ranges than they deserve. Evidently even the cam mfrs have gone weak on spring recommendation for the roller cam motors in the past.
One of my pet peeves is someone asking for advice about GT40/GT40P heads, and making it clear they're on a budget and only looking for a mild performance boost, only to be bombarded with "those heads are garbage" and "get you some AFRs". Nobody tries to make stuff work anymore, and they love to spend other people's money. Or my favorite - "nobody makes headers that fit" 🙄
@@timcornock8232 effectively they're saying "you should just spend 4 times as much money for heads." Great idea...where will I find 4 times the money for heads?"
Best advanced "How to" video I've saw on SBF heads. I have a set of GTP's and E7's sitting in the shop. I'm heading out now to do comparisons and to find a couple junk heads to practice on. Hopefully I'll be able to locate some of those shop cutters and measuring aids to get as close as possible. Thanks for the motivation by being clear, concise, and easy to follow along with. For some reason your way of speaking jives with my ADD. I was totally engaged until the end. SUPER rare. Good stuff. Keep it up!
In the late '60s, the HOT set up was a 302 "Windsor" using "Windsor 351" heads with the Chevy valves. Valley Head Service had a complete kit to allow use of the Chevy valves. The kit included special push rod guide plates and stainless "swirl polished" valves with the exhaust valves being sodium filled. This set up produced a significant increase in power, however there was a BIG problem getting enough lubrication to the guide plates and keeping the push rods lubricated. After a few thousand miles, things got noisy in the head area, even though the engine seemed to run fine. I did upgrade the oil pump, but the "squeaking" didn't go away! It appears that not enough thought was put into designing those guide plates.
That is exactly why I do not use guide plates on these engines Use a slotted rocker works much better
I absolutely love the FORD content!
first, love the video content. been watching for years. Been building small block Ford's for many years now, you let all the cheap secrets out! actually, thank you for showing this as it it really a good way to upgrade an early 289/302 engine. The late heads have hard exhaust seats that still maintain hardness with the Chevy 1.50 valve package and honestly the pedestal mount rocker setup is really goo up to .550 or so lift with good stability. Junkyard/parts store upgrade for people out there: use late 460 1.7 ratio pedestal rockers on the stock head for a valve lift increase. Of course, make sure your retainer to guide and seal clearance/spring bind can handle it. I normally cut the 1.94 valves down to 1.90 as they seem to fit better and less cutting on the bowl but for a gt40/p head it fits ok. The 289 heads you showed there I think are the 2 barrel 68 289/302 heads, 1 or 2 years only until they went to the standard 58.2cc heads through 76 then went pedestal mount and big chambers like the D80E you mentioned.
For the bottom end, you said it's a budget build, take a look at the sealed power/speed pro H120cp pistons. Cast/Hypereutectic design(.0015 skirt to wall, late metric 1.5/1.5mm ring pack, 1.605" compression height and flat top with two generous valve reliefs. gets you closer to zero deck without a lot of cutting of the deck. Also can setup for floating pin.
Cannot wait to see the cam specs, assume since it's mild cruiser it will be 210@.050 or less with just over .500 lift. should run really well, and a performer RPM intake would wake it up!!!
thanks for all the hard work.
So would the 71
Mustang/Torino 302 heads have the improved ports and increased compression ratios?
@@blackbrass1973 check the cast #,s. 71 was fuel crisis.. no performance there.. cheapest best engine to build. iether stock 460, with flat tops. or 351c, with 302c heads. 12.1 comp, run lpg. had this in bronco for 14 yrs, no problems. stock cam, kills cars.. only windsor id have would be the 351w with 351c heads.. mate had a 302w falcon, ran around 15,s. other mate had a built 4.1, i6 cyl, on lpg, running 10,s.. early block with alloy swerl head. v8 guys not happy.. ausie..[ here chev guys dreamed of clevo valves,heads. chevs garbage.].
The wisdom you have is priceless. You’ve probably forgotten more about engines and cars than most folk know. Master Mechanic for Shure. You rock Man. 👍🏼
This video is so on the money. GT40P heads really good factory head for a 289. Think they run a different exhaust setup though. We use these heads on our later 5.0's in Australia and they did well if you didn't want to go alloy.
Your attention to detail and the way you explain things makes it very easy to understand, unlike other videos out there.
I have an 09 4 L ranger and its never let me down, and I try to take really good care of it.
your videos have helped me in the past, especially the ones where you touch on the LS platform.
So i just want to say thank you very much
Got a set of these on the bench now porting and installing for my neighbor. He’s got a 95 gt with a lunati cam, edelbrock performer efi intake, and all the other usual bolt on’s. Well we got a set of the gt40 3 bar heads but pretty much as you said the same thing except a little compression difference and spark plug angle. Picked them up with some crane 1.7rr with Alex springs for $450 which I think was a great deal and beat the eBay aluminum heads he was kinda eyeballing. Definitely all he was missing was a decent set of heads since those e7’s are literally choking his engine down especially after 4k rpm
Your orignal 289 video series is the reason I subbed. your video skills have come a long way since then keep it up love seeing all the tips and tricks
Thank you for doing it. I have always worked on FE's & 429/460's & I have alot of knowledge on those engines but small ford have been mostly just general knowledge. I recently bought a very nice 86 f150 2wd & it has a 5.0 fi engine & im wanting to do some work to it. Mild cam for the street & I was thinking gt 40p heads. So this was very knowledgeable for me. Thank you sir.
Right on
Hey Jesse (Eli here) you'll enjoy that combo for sure just choose your camshaft to take full advantage of the heads
very interesting. I would love to hear the feedback from the owner once completed and installed.
No.
were going to dyno the car
I will post an update when it is done and let you guys know how it runs and I am sure Kerry will post the Dyno results!
@@Myvintageiron7512 dyno the car yet by chance?
@@19jody72 no
Finally a video shows something just like the eraly days of TH-cam
Show a video of the engine running we want to hear that baby roar
He will be a happy guy when it's all said and done
Sounds like my '67 Cougar it turned out to be what looked like crystalized honey blocking the water pump from circulating coolant, chiseled all that out, replaced the pump and it was golden.
Good info man thank you.i had a 68 mercury with a 302..first thing I got when getting ready to rebuild was an erson cam withroller rockers and a set of dart heads with 2.02intake and 1.60 exhaust.specs on cam were.504 lift,306° adv.duration.108°lobe center.gear drive 10.5:1 k.b's.single plane intake,3000 rpm stall.650 Holley and Mallory ignition.i though it would be a little more streetabl..it was baddass though.i watched your how to pic cam video not too long ago..i guess a different lobe center and little less duration would have been a little more tame..live your show.thanks
On the p heads put 90° boots on the spark plug wires that are close and run whatever headers you want. Iv been messing with foxbody mustabgs for over 20 years been there done that 😉
You can see the port difference by eye when lined up side by side like that! It is pretty dramatic, great improvement!
It really is!
Just wanted to check in and see how you are doing. Since this was my engine, I made a playlist directing people to your channel to see the process.
The C9oe's came in a 302 variant as well, both the same. 58cc combustion chambers and pretty sizable ports, skimped on the valves. Got a set in the shop right now.
what is better? bigger than 58cc or smaller?
This is my kind of content! Good ol budget cylinder head improvements. Starting with the GT40P heads puts you about 40 cfm ahead on the intake compared to E7 heads.
I had a 302 with e7te heads im fairly sure in a fox and that motor just felt choked above 3000 rpm. I drove one with gt40 maybe gt40p heads explorer intake and the small ford letter cam. The difference was night and day between the two to me. Well worth doing.
Absolutely 💯
Great video!! I have a 71 F-100, 302, 4sp. It's my bucket list on a budget truck. I can turn a wrench when I'm not punching a keyboard. I'm been thinking about an engine swap or rebuild. Not looking for crazy HP but a step up from stock. I'm now leaning on a rebuild. ~ Thank you!
I rebuilt a 302 from a 69 Mustang when I was a teen. I noticed the heads had these silly looking large bumps in the exhaust ports.
It didn't have a smog pump or anything (built before that). I don't know if it made a difference, but I ground them off, just because I didn't want anything without a purpose.
At the time, it was easy to find high performance parts. The machine shop I went to had a bunch of Boss 302 blocks sitting in a corner.
Fantastic!!!
That’s old school pride in doing a job right the first time.
Thanks very much for sharing.
top quality advice here i love it, i have a 302 that came with aftermarket edelbrock heads but id love to pickup a fox body and throw these heads youve recommended on them
Just picked up a 302 and c6 for my f100, had no idea these heads were such a great update
yep you scored
They are really good heads,I have a pair of GT-40 3 BAR HEADS. Not gt-40 p 4 bar heads. Running a ford b-cam with 1.7 roller rockers. Car runs hard,pulls strong to about 6,200 rpm. Nice little street car.
I am sure you two fellows have probably solved the overheating problem in the early small block mustang. It brings to mind the problem my friend had with his early Mustang and it turned out to be that the water pump and fan blade were running reverse rotation. It was on his car for two years before he found the problem. Ford started using reverse rotation water pumps in 1979 With the introduction of the serpentine belt.
It kind of sucks that production ford heads aren't that great, a good set of aftermarket heads work so much better but if ur on a budget your really limited with what u can run, at least with chevys the early heads flowed decent but the late 70s-early 90s heads were trash and the vortec flow really well. I would have thought that the 60s ford heads would have been good being that those early engines ran on leaded gas and there weren't many emissions laws then. Thank you for taking the time to make this video, a friend of mine has been trying to hop up his 302 in his mud truck and he lucked out and bought a loaded set of world products heads for $500. I learned alot from this, it will help on future builds.
I love how you sound like Jimmy Stewart. Thanks for sharing your knowledge cheers Nick
First I just want to say that your information and your video is very good and informative but I'll also like to point out that the head you're showing their for the early 289 2-V open chamber head which which were widely used and junk! You need to compare that head to the 289 4-V Head! Is a closed chamber 52 - 54 CC, same as the 289 hipo for the "K" engine! I've been running the hypo heads to this day and have a 289 in my 70 Maverick and in my 66 a code fastback! I never did much work to the intake Port just cleaned it up, ran a 1.940 intake valve and a 1.625 exhaust valve which is all that will fit in those heads!!! Barely!!! I did extensive work on the bulls or valve pockets, special attention to the short-turn and raise the port top made a "D" port on the top of the port! I don't put all of my faith in flow testing! But rather in results horsepower and winning races!!! I was making and still am making 400 to 500 HP out of a hypo 289 board 4.030 to a 292 CID. Depending on cam, intake and compression, I run the old TRW forged 12.5 to 1 compression to 13.5 to 1 compression depending on the head and gasket used! With 100 octane fuel, and a modest 125 horse of nitrous oxide, I was pushing 600 horsepower on these old motors! I think we've gone as far as we can go with the 66 style head and hypo 289! But don't sell those heads short! I like closed chamber heads even on big block Chevy's I've now gone up to a 331 CID, still at 12.5 to 1 compression with a good aluminum cylinder head! "Not AFR!!!" And we're knocking at the door of 800 HP!!! The 289 that's in my 66 fastback right now has been in the car since 1984 took the heads off once for a blown head gasket!!! And that should cover my reliability Factor! I was just asking you to do a little more research and don't sell them old engines short!!! 🤔. Thank you! 🤠👍.
Really like your videos. Just getting in to restoring a 67 Bronco with a 302 and these small block Ford videos are great. Thanks!!
New favorite. Love fords have a 66 mustang with Chevy valves. Been driving it for 40 years.
Back in the mid 70s i had a buddy in high school that his dad owned a machine shop. They put a set of 202 chevy valves in a 289 head. That Fairlane ran like a stripped ape. Edlebrock intake 600 holley and headers with a small cam.
YEP
Since most people don't have a machinist friend to do this work for free it would make more sense to buy aftermarket head's I think,seems like a lot of work when you can buy one that works out the box.i have a 1993 f150 302 I have been wanting a head upgrade but that leads to camshaft being replaced and a host of other issues.its never just heads.
well like I said at the end you do not need to do all this work I am just showing what's possible and even at that your still only into these heads about $750.00 with all this work well below Aftermarket heads if you pull these out of a bone yard clean em up add springs and stem seals/ lap the valves your in them for less than $300.00 and your bolting on true seat of the paints performance it's pretty hard to tell a guy with a $300 budget to just go ahead and lay out 12 to 15 hundred for aftermarket heads and then there's the roller rockers and hardened push rods required that's another 4 to 5 hundred now your pushing 2K
@@Myvintageiron7512 300$ budget is pretty low. to do anything with any engine would be nothing short of a miracle.my seals cost me more than that and I bought em (acap) as cheap as possible.
I just put a drill on the stem and spin slowly …back and forth a few times….works great
Good video. I have a 97 OBS F250 with a 351W that I’m going to be rebuilding soon. This will be my first Ford engine build so your videos are a big help.
very Cool
Using ported 68 J code 4v 302 heads they come with factory screw in studs, installed bigger Ferrea 5000 series valves 1.94 -1.60 , they measure out at 160cc intake, and 65cc exhaust with really only pocket porting done to them 54cc combustion chambers, the exhaust I opened up quite a bit, springs are 125lbs at seat, my net lift with 1.6 rockers is .551, port size is great for mid upper end power, but there is something to be said for power down in the rev range with smaller ports, that can still flow decent numbers. The P heads are Ford final answer on the small block!
Smart stud upgrade. 👍 Just had a set of GT40P heads done myself. Bought same price $175 plus machinging. Im $475 into a set. Including TFS spring kit.
Ford Australia did the big valve GT40p heads for my 2001 Falcon XR8 220kw model (295hp) ! They fitted the bigger 1.94/1.54 valves from the Alloy GT40 SVO heads !!
I just bought a foxbody mustang and would like to add more HP to it, keeping it naturally aspirated. This was a great video explaining about the heads. Impressive knowledge, and way over my head, but trying to at least learn. Currently my limit of knowledge is putting gas in the car!
Never stop learning!
I have 2 289's from 2 different 1967 Mercury Cougar's I also had ghost overheating issues in one that turned out to be possibly left over casting sand from the block or block sealer that had blocked the water passages to the water pump. I rodded out the radiator, replaced the thermostat, etc. Still it overheated, I pulled the water pump and found something resembling crystalized honey about an inch or more thick blocking the water passages to the actually working water pump.
A friend of mine had a 68 Mustang and with stock heads he was outrunning almost everything in town.. His was a Windsor with a Edelbrock torquer manifold and a Holly 600 and headers. It would fly. No one believed it was a small block
yep the 35W is one of the best SB's ford ever produced with the early heads they ran very well
I was not sure if you could use these heads on a 289 but now I know. Great video.
Good job this is Steve from Annapolis need more Machinist yq in this world
Great video man! Fantastic machining setup you have there. Thank you for the imparting of your knowledge
Thanks for watching!
I replaced my E7s on a 92 F250 with the Brodix ST 5.0 heads. Haven`t put the engine on dyno yet to see the real difference, but my bet is that it`s a pretty good upgrade.
If I remember correctly, the regular GT40 heads have angled spark plug holes, like the E7 and older heads.. and the GT40P heads have the straight...
Is this 100% correct?
@@La_chakalosaaaa yes
Nice work! I'm in the process of doing this same thing right now, just without the valve size upgrade. (No friend with machine shop! That's $750 worth of machining around here!) LOL. Keep up the great work!
I got a 302 Windsor and I put 4v heads on it. The exhaust and intake ports are so much bigger
W O W.....
Can't believe I heard you say " there is no reason to build a, go fast old car""
I am reminding you... because you have obviously lost you mind!!! 😂🤣
Its not about racing....its not about going fast!! Its about the total diving experience!!
The rumble
The sound
The smell
The looks you get!
The pride..
The history
And yes!! The burnouts!! 😂🤣🤣😂🤣
I am totally being funny...
Doesn't matter if you are a Ford or chevy guy, both companies have made some very solid engines...the 289 and 302 Ford engines have more than earned their places, as has the ls platform from chevy. Both can make nice power and be reliable. I will always prefer the higher revving smallblock ford's, but I love the low end torque from the ls and lt platforms
You may find that you need to spot face those pedestals down to get proper valvetrain geometry. It's not uncommon to need to take ~.250 off the pedestal to account for the height difference between the studs+hex and the original pedestal rockers. Often what happens is that the pushrod is lengthened to account for lack of adjustment, leading to improper sweep on the valve tip. I saw this exact scenario in a 302 that was in a GT40.
Thank you for sharing all of your hard-earned knowledge, you have a fantastic channel!
I appreciate that!
wow! super detailed. Although I have no way of doing that kinda of work with my cars, it brings a nice perspective and understanding of "why does it cost so munch"?....lol
Glad you liked it!
I like AMC :) The big 3 makes for a good parts suppler
The Gt40p also has 4 bars on the front of the head and also has different plug angle as well as to where the gt40 just has 3. The E7TE H.O. heads were also a good upgrade over the early style heads but not as good as the GT40s. Most of the early heads were set up for economy and used 2 barrel carbs for was more big block performance oriented back in those days then later on in the 80s and 90s the small blocks came on performance.
But now days man if you have a few more dollars to spend just go with a good quality aluminum and be done with it but for budget builds the GT40s are the way to go and can still be found here and there.
Good video. I took of factory fan and installed a Zirgo fan and two core aluminum radiator. Problem solved.
Your buddy’s 289 had 302 heads. Probably 1970 castings. Low perf 2 barrel 289 heads had a nice small triangle shaped chamber as did the first year 302. 1968 I believe.
A trick we learned years ago put the head deck to deck 180 degrees they come out flat for the home machines to do his own stud work
I’ve got a 69 F100 with a 302 and I’ve been thinking about doing the GTP head swap and now I’m going to once I find a set and a new short block so I can build a engine and enjoy the truck while I’m getting it built
OK..... You've got me eating my words!! 😜
Back to my first comment much earlier, I said that the E7s were the go-to Heads for us, back in the day....
I also said that I haven't been under the Hood of a performance Car in over two Decades...
DID NOT know about the GT40 or GT40P Heads!!! 😳 You just taught this Old Dawg a new trick! THESE are the Heads that I want.
I'm not even offended by your using CHEVY Valves! 😜 I'm actually surprised and amazed at how they seem to have the same Stem size, and the SAME installed height. I really have been out of the game for too long!!
I gotta ask though, is there ANY benefit to using the larger Chevy Exhaust Valves and the STOCK Ford Intake Valves??
And GAWD!! I've always dreamed of having a Shop as well equipped as yours. You probably even have Sunnen Honing, Boring AND Line Honing Machines!! I swear I'd give my left NUT to have just one week in there.
I've already inundated you with comments! 😖 I'm just going to watch the rest of this Series. Even though I've done a LOT of Ford Small Block builds.... I'm now SURE you're going to teach me something else new before I'm done.
Subscribed too. 😉
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Did all of that 30 years ago. I just took a set of 260 heads and ported them
Ford lowered the compression ratio on the 68 289 2bbl engine that's why it was rated 5hp less than the earlier motors and it was the last year the 289 was offered in the Mustang. My son in law owns a 68 fastback with the 289 that we swapped a 95 roller motor into
First of all it doesn’t matter what brand people are driving all your content is bang on. I am in the process of rebuilding an 89 Foxbody convertible. Heard all the good things these GT 40 intake and heads can do ( in the process of tracking some down ). I want to try to get 300/350 hp out of it with stock bottom end. Plan is Gt40 heads, intake, new springs and 1.6 or 1.7 rockers. Any tips you may have other that? Better camshaft? Looking forward to you continuing this series, great job brother!
I would definitely look at some cam options you can do much better than stock other than that your on the right track you will not be disappointed with GT40 package
What do you think about 70 400m. Is this a big block?
Thanks
Mike
What a solid friend ! That’s not a small amount of work
Thanks for the vidz. Need to start on restoring my 66. 289 70k. 3rd owner.
Someone else asked about the springs, I didn't see an answer. But I would also love to know the cam and spring part numbers you used. Great job with the video. You might have mentioned that the 3-bar GT40 heads don't have the header issue the 4-bar P heads have. The 3-bar were 96 and early 97 Explorers.
I'm not sure what springs I used at this point, what I will say is when you do select a cam you will need to get a spring that the cam supplier recommends for their cam, they will give you a part number or simply buy a kit with the springs included that's how we did this job
A little exhaust port opening work and a Shelby 289/302 HP spec cam really wake up these small block Fords on a budget. Have you considered a better intake manifold over stock? A used one can be found on a budget. You're looking at 100 horse upgrade. The customer will certainly be surprised with the power, with good idle and vacuum for power accessories. Good luck
he already has an Edelbrock performer and 4 barrel on the car
In Oz guys used to put 351 w 4v heads on the 289/302w
Top notch work as always my friend.
Thanks again!
There is going to be a “sharp edge” when the spark plug in installed, the first threads will be exposed
On the gt40 3 bar heads, have you had a issue with the height of the intake different than the exhaust height.
When I went to change the springs I couldn't use the comp cam springs that came with the set.I had to find a different spring with retainers and locks to level both of them out.Looking at the old springs one was slightly taller than the other.Its kind of funny when I explained this to the comp cam tech he had no clue on how to address the problem.He told me to machine down the tall side.
Alex's parts sold me valve spring kit VSK7hb48-f that worked with my cam size that I bought from comp cam.My 351w with this cam and dual plane intake with headers and a 750 carb work great.I did a complete rebuild on the motor .040 bore turned the crank with all new fasteners and reshaped rods. Removed all the pollution control stuff I think at a guess I'd say the motor gained a 100 hp . I used the biggest cam .456 lift I could without changing my stock torque converter.With my 3.90 gear she really takes off well.Hoping to run in the 14 second quarter mile with my 87 f150 short bed truck.Really enjoyed the information keep up the good work.
if your using the Ford valves they do have a different keeper groove location installing the Chevy valves solves that problem
@@Myvintageiron7512 ok that's makes sense.I didn't change the valves just had the machine shop clean up the factory one's.I wished this video was done about a year and half ago.I would have done things differently.Drilling out the rocker arm stud mounts would have been a big help.Your right on the money about the 5/16 holes being to small.I was afraid of breaking them off when I installed the stud mounts. I even used a tool made special to install them.Thanks for your expertise.I like watching people who really know what there doing and can explain it so I can get a understanding of the process.
This doesn't have anything to do with Ford engines, but I love your videos man. Im teaching myself everything I can about engine building and your videos have been a huge help. Do you ever build old straight 6's? I'd love to see you do a 292 build some day.
I have a 1967 Chevy biscayne with stock 350 out of 90s truck I’m not concerned with it being fast just sound good run good. Neat old car yes my f150 with 2.7l eco boost is fast as crap. So no need to worry about making old car fast reliable is where it’s at.
Which is why I like my old junk. I may daily a modified 370Z, but my '64 mercury with a Ford 289 is quite trustworthy as is the 351W in my boat, alongside the 77 camaro with the malaise-y 305.
THANK YOU GREATLY! love your videos, especially how to select the correct cam, if i could ask a favor, give us the info on the 5.4 3v like you did for the 4.8 5.3 and 6.0 ls motors, I would pay dearly...... Thank You
How fast you want to go is relevant to how much money you have.
Good morning
Thank You
Kindly it is amazing your knowledge on these subjects
Thanks
You are most welcome
@18:44 best advice you could give........ever........Speed cost money, how much do you have to spend and how fast do you want to go.
Love your videos. I know you are a busy guy was wondering what cam you would recommend. Building a stock 5.0. Roller Cam. 1997. Crank and cylinders are in spec got the gt40p heads
Want to clean ports run stock size valves and try to make it breath a little better. also using stock pistons and stock fuel injection.
Don't want a hot rod just want to get a little more hp and torque. Thanks and keep making videos.
I had a set of those heads. They ran good but they do require a special header because of the spark plug angle and they do not have EGR..