Yup. It snaps back into position to connect the high torque, but slower, motor windings. When traveling fast enough, the centripetal force pulls it up disconnecting those windings, while the 'go fast' windings take over. On spin down, force disappears, it clacks back into position. It's two parts, one affixed, that slide on the spindle. Spinning makes it swing the 'elbows' out, mechanically separating a connection.
Thank you for the review! I also loved the line “that’s not just good, that’s good enough!” As one amazon reviewer wrote “I’m Not making medical devices in my garage, I’m drilling holes in wood. Are you drilling holes in wood? Then get this.” As for me, I’m by far the least accurate thing in my garage so it seems more than good enough for me. Thanks!
I purchased this exact model and it landed here today. I used brake cleaner (it doesn't harm most paints) to clean everything up including the quill and the taper for the chuck I assembled the unit. I used a dial indicator to test for run out on the quill and found it at 1/2 thousands. I installed the taper into the quill with a rubber hammer and then the chuck into the taper--again using the rubber hammer. I then installed a brand new Made in the USA 5/16" drill bit and checked for run out. I found only 2 thousands run out. SO! Before spending another $35 or so on the key less chuck, check the specs for the original units. While I use key less chucks on my battery powered drills I do prefer a manual chuck on a stationary drill as they tighten and stay tightened.
Albrecht style keyless chucks tighten under load. Your experience is probably with cheaply made keyless chucks. Albrecht, Rohm, Glacern Machine Tools, etc. You will stall the machine before it lets go of the bit.
My WEN 4214, upon powering down, does make that multi clicking sound. I called wen about it and I too was told that it was normal. I do like my WEN drill press. I use it strictly for metal. It gets the job done for sure. Thank you very much for the review.
I had this drill press for a while. I sold it because I sold everything I could to avoid having to move it from state to state a couple years ago. I really like the drill press overall. There is a safety concern. The tab on the front pulley that passes through the hall effect sensor (for rpm measurement) was cutting through the power cord insulation. I would estimate it cut about 50% of the way through the insulation before there was no longer contact. I watched it closely for a while and it didn't change from there. First thing I did was replace the chuck anyway with a setup from Glacern Machine Tools (MT2-DC500). Chucking in a piece of drill rod, I was at about .0007~ total indicated. Minus the safety issue, I agree that it's the best value there is. By the way, this is the same drill press that JET sells (model 716000) under their name for 2.5x what I paid.
I just purchased the Wen 4214, I had the same clicking when powering off. Thanks to your video, I see It’s normal. I found your video very informative. Thank you
What I like most about this video is the presentation itself. Not too long, very informative and hit all the important points. The cinematography is excellent and voice articulation is clear and well structured to the subject. I can think of many long winded, boring national TV newscasters that should take lessons from Aaron.
Hi, at 7:40, I'd suggest replacing one of the nuts with a lock nut, or replacing the washer with a rubbery nylon washer. The reason being that the friction from the rubber prevents side to side movement (which is the main cause for loosening nuts) Alternatively, line both sides of the washer with electric tape.
I bought one of these drill presses about a year ago. For the money I was pretty happy! I will say they are not meant for heavy duty work. On the runout on the press I bought it had .003" with the stock chuck and a router bit I used to measure the runout. I use my press for hobby woodworking and it fits the bill. For the DIY'er on a budget I highly reccomend it.
Take the runout from the tool and my poor measuring skills, Add them together, then they should cancel each other out, giving me an extremely precise hole. 😉. Great review. Extremely informative and great for those with buyer’s remorse or those who know very little about drill presses, like myself; that definitely eased my mind a bit about my purchase. Thank you!
I've had an excellent experience with tech support. No email. Just call. Yes, the tech actually walks over to a tool like the one you are calling about and walks you through any adjustment! Amazing theses days!
TBH, I don't recall offhand what that's even referring to. But don't run too fast, it's a great unit for the price. I've been very happy with mine over the past 3 years now.
I have a Wen 4212 hack that may work on the 4214 as well....i ordered the wen grinder stand and as i suspected the drill press pole flange and the top flange of the grinder match up perfectly. so you can adapt the desktop model to the floor model for $100. and the water cooling tray is great for often used bits. great hack for me.
You missed the upper set screw, there are two, read them instructions! LOL! Also, "That's not just good, that's good enough!!!" LOL!! Good one! The first noise I could hear (6:34) when it was running sounded like a loose belt. It looked like when you adjusted to the highest speed, the belt went loose. Is that right? Home depot is selling me one for $195 with 10% veteran discount. I think I will get it. Thanks for the review!
OK good review and all one thing tho the parts are cast steel not cast iron. The clicking noise is the start winding it has a centrifugal switch once it reaches full speed and the belt should be good for awhile.
Nice review, thanks for posting it. Quick question: did you find the table to be rock solid once you tightened the locking ring or did it move or wiggle?
Thanks for sharing I just received this I also bought the add on Wen work table which I will be installing I may also get the better chuck and do it all at once again thanks for sharing
Mine screeched really bad at the motor output and had noticeable and audible drag when turning the motor by hand. Luckily Amazon had UPS pick it up for a free return. Sucked I had to box it back up -- heavy!
I think that clicking sound may be a device called????? A centrifugal switch. I learned about it on Jeremy Feildings page. When the motor spins up the switch disconnects the starting winding of the motor once the motor reaches normal speed. It’s said to be on pretty much every motor you’d find in your workshop.
Well balanced review. Seems like a great drill press in this price range. Wish there was a side by side comparison with the Bauer 12". Very similar specs but the Bauer is somewhat less expensive.
Could be helpful to let us know the minimum drill Diameter this 12" Wen can receive. Also, can the plunger be adjusted to make it tighter, hence no play in it. Thanks, nice unboxing. 👍 Same question for the Amazon keyless chuck. Thx
I just bought this one and using a dial indicator (just bought that, too) it reads .004 runout at the chuck (measuring on the side where the key holes are) but it reads .113 runout on a milling bit inserted in the chuck. I'm using the drill press mainly for polymer 80 308 lowers and not sure if the runout is too excessive for that. I would think so but trying to find out.
Thank you for this review, it cemented my decision to go with a JET drill press. I know it is more expensive, but I would be constantly irritated by the noise and inaccuracy of this WEN. I get what I pay for, and not being able to drill an accurate and straight hole, is not good enough.
By and large I completely agree with this review and valued it in making my decision to buy. The cost versus features pushed me to buy in light of any shortcomings. I should also mention I am an avid WEN customer btw who owns several WEN products... but am also not blind to shortcomings. My Pros include: *The CVT-style variable speed adjustment (will never go back to belt switching either, and the reason most people I know get this one), I’ll actually switch speeds rather than just leave it somewhere in the middle ;-) Nice for this price level. *the use of IRON versus stamped metal in other lower cost units *the relatively easy assembly, *good stateside customer service/support (which I actually needed/used), BTW if you brought up the chuck issue, pretty sure they’d have sent you a new one. *the cost versus features/performance on this. * the availability of parts (thus far) My Cons: *the “fit and finish” like he also stated. The iron base on mine has a bit of unevenness in opposing corners, (bolting it down and shimming it helps). This isn’t unique to WEN though... but should be a QC inspection issue. *the loudness he mentions is real. It’s noticeably louder than some others in a similar price profile. *The loud shutoff “clutch/ brake” mentioned is noticeable, but normal. Like his review states, because the positives can outweigh the negatives for most at this cost-point, this is a decent buy.
Thanks for a great video. You didn't mention if yours has the 5 amp motor or the earlier 3.2 amp. I have this press with the 5 amp motor. Thanks for the keyless chuck suggestion. I ordered one. I also have the table and spindle sander kit for it. I'm really happy with it. I couldn't afford a name brand unit, and the cheap harbor freight unit it replaced was unusable. Glad I found a good middle ground. Loved your review and thanks for sharing 😊
Great video Aaron. Appreciate the short but very pointed review. Thank you for taking your time to honestly review this product and provide your experience with it. Just ignore the trolls, they have nothing better to do. Keep on making great, informative and realistic videos, you are very good at it!
Thanks for your excellent video review! Wanted to point out that your link to the uxcell drill chuck links instead to a different product. The uxcell definitely still exists, but is a different link. Thanks again!
@@aaronstestlab Hey, I'm just trying to offer some constructive criticism. Forstner bits can have manufacturing defects in them that caust them to be slightly out of round, or they could warp or twist slightly from use. Point being they arent accurate enough for precision setup.
I enjoyed the video. It was very informative. I'll stick with the multi pulley type speed adjustment. One: Less belt wear. Two: Super easy to replace the belt. and three: For me, I have left the speed on slow and have not change the speed of my drill press in 20 years. Slow speed does all. I drill PVC, wood and steel all on the same speed. Barry
if you want to get under 5 thou of runout from a 3 jaw chuck or drill chuck you need to buy a reeeally good one. maybe you should buy some kind of indicatable chuck or some collets?
Hahaa. The cvt clutch is the same on snowmobiles. Thats funny and love it. Ingenious. No more moving belts on the pulleys. Nice. Tho I baught a wen drywall sander. And yea. well what a disappointment that was. 😕
We used variable speed pulleys on all our machines at work and they ran for years 24/7 without any wear but it was only for timing the machines with each other on a line and not doing any heavy work such as driving a chuck into wood or metal. This unit looks identical to the Full Boar model which is owned by Ozito.
kind of late to the party but if you still have this drill press whats the distance between the channels on the table? like how big of a vise could fit?
Welp, I broke down and bought this drill press. I also grabbed a Glacern chuck due to how low the runout is. Plus, a cross slide vise. I should be set for life. ;D
You'll have to let us know how it works with the cross-slide. I've read mixed opinions on whether or not drill presses have the rigidity to deal with the lateral loads involved in milling.
@@aaronstestlab Well, it seems to work fine! I'm mostly using it for fine adjustment fixturing because I'm drilling very small things that my hands are just too shaky to drill anymore. The only downside is the holes on the vise don't match up with the slots on the base. So I'm stuck using C clamps.
@@aaronstestlab Was just on my way to the hardware store to pick up some half inch bolts, washers, nuts, and a bit of wood to do just that.... And they closed at 6pm. So I'm gonna hit Ace tonight or tomorrow for the same thing. I'll keep ya up to date and maybe post a quick video of it.
@@aaronstestlab Hey, just wanted to let ya know. I tossed up a very quick and dirty review of that cross slide vise and a chuck I put on the drill. No adapter plate yet, but you can see what I've done at least.
I'm looking at getting one of these, as it looks like a great value judging by reviews like yours and others. Could you possibly measure the inner diameter of the table mount bracket and let me know what that is (in frame at time stamp 1:53)? I have a specific application that this could be useful for (drilling new lug pattern in a few axles shafts). I'm wondering if the shaft will fit in that mounting bracket. Thank in advance!
Thanks for a great video! I got this drill press a couple weeks ago. Downsized from 15” floor model. I wish it would do a bit slower speed. Mine goes down to 510 at slowest. Anyone modify it to go slower? If not, what’s the largest diameter Forstner bit you would use for wood at its slowest speed?
The runout might have been in your tool and not the chuck itself, Since the arbour was within .001. You can indicate your drills in if you need to. Most likely a bad load of the drill bit onto the chuck. If you do indicate your drills do yourself a favor and get a test indicator much better for indicating things than a drop indicator which is what the tool you used is called.
@@aaronstestlab Cool answer. Another Utube review of the Wen 10" stated his chuck also had excessive runout. He removed the chuck, rotated it a bit, and refit it, the runout was okay after that. Another Wen reviewer said he mentioned the problem to Wen support, they sent a new check assembly (and maybe new quill also, not sure about that). That also fixed the problem. Another tip was to create a U shaped wedge to pop off the chuck.
I recently purchased same drill press and The keyless chuck, problem! Now the laser cross hairs are not fully visible due to the longer keyless chuck length! Any ideas how to resolve this?
@@aaronstestlab Thanks - I couldn't tell the difference from the specs either... Since they changed the number, I am worried about getting the 4214T and then finding out they changed something I'd care about...
Really easy. Just drop down the quill until you see an oval-shaped slot with the end of the arbor visible in it. Then insert the supplied tool(metal, flat on one side and tapered on the other) and give it a light tap with a mallet. The chuck will drop right out. If this isn't clear, just search for "remove morse taper"...I'm sure there's a video demonstrating it.
Aaron Woodwell Awesome. Didn’t come with a chuck key or the tool, but a flat blade screwdriver popped it right out. Looking forward to using my ‘new’ $100 press.
I just got exact model used for a decent price i think however upon inspection i found that the height adjustment locking lever in back has damaged threads and it no longer locks. Do you happen to have a solution. Keep in mind the unit is less than a year old based on manufactured date and previous owner seems like he hardly used it.
Hi Aaron. Is the link that you provided for the keyless chuck the right one for the Wen? I ordered and received it and the arbor doesn't look right. Is there any way you can take a look at it and please let me know? I don't know which one on Amazon is the correct one for that drill press. Thanks so much buddy.
@@aaronstestlab Hi Aaron. Thanks for getting back to me buddy. I sent you a few texts I think yesterday, or the day before. It's the link in your description. That's what I used. That arbor is different than the one for the Wen.
Just double checked the link. It goes to the correct product. If it's a different size than yours, I'd double check they sent the right product. Should say #2MT or MT2 somewhere on it. If you're just noticing the aftermarket product doesn't have a tang on the end(flattened bit), don't worry about it. It will work with or without. Also, where did you find my number to text? I never received anything but then again, I don't publicly list it so I'm just curious.
@@aaronstestlab Im sorry, I guess I shouldn't have said I "texted" you lol. I meant I contacted you on here. Sorry about that. So you're saying that the one that this company sent is the correct one? Its NOT from the company you said, Uxcell and it doesn't have that tang on the top. It does say #2 MT and there's a picture of the product on the box and it matches what's inside. It's from PSI Woodworking. I found the one that Uxcell sells and it looks EXACTLY like the one you have. So do I use this one, or use the one from Uxcell that matches?? You also did a review on Amazon for the product, correct? Well, I saw the review and it's under the one from Uxcell, not PSI Woodworking. I noticed that yesterday.
One question. I don't see a clamp for locking the spindle travel. Am I right or is that what the small set screw with a locknut is for? If so, I would say that is a big downer.
Not totally sure what you mean. Are you referring to setting a depth stop? If so, that's accomplished by a threaded rod and two stop nuts on the left hand side of the machine. Or are you talking about something else?
@@aaronstestlab What I mean is there anything to hold the spindle fixed at a certain depth like when being used with a drum sander so it doesn't return upwards.
@@ubob703Robert Gotcha. The depth stop can be adjusted to control travel and return. In other words, there are stop nuts on either side of the stop. So you can control how far it extends and how far it retracts.
That's too bad. It's a great product overall. Might try hitting both the male and female ends with a scotchbrite pad before you return. Sometimes that machining debris/grease can be hard to remove.
Decent Reveiw , thanks despite the downfalls which are to becexpected of a Tool at this PricePoint Overall it seems to be a pretty good Unit for the Majoritynof Home Shops and other applications for the most part any Used High Quality Floor S😢ta ding DrillPresses are 3 to 4 times the cost without any Warranties and certainly doesn’t give you the Comveinence of having one shipped right to your Door
Using the 4 handle lever rotate the drill to its lowest position. You'll see a slot exposed. Rotate the chuck until you see a recess. The drill should have come with a metal wedge that fits in the recess slot. A few taps on the wedge in the slot should release the chuck. You'll see video examples if you search youtube.
Hello. Thanks so much for posting this video. I just assembled my 4212 last night. I really like WEN products and yes, they may not be for industrial use, but for at home they work perfectly. But I had a question about that "run out" that you measured. Can you please tell me what exactly that means and what does it pertain to? I don't have a gauge to measure mine but if I could make an improvement to it, I don't mind. I just don't know what that means or what it's for. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. Thanks!!
For lack of a better term, it's how much the chuck "wobbles". In other words, how much your hole size will be off. Or, in the case of drilling metal might indicate how likely your bit is to break. For example, if you had a .125"(1/8) bit on a chuck with .01" runout you'd likely get a .135" hole.
@@aaronstestlab Hey Aaron thanks for responding. So I probably won't know if mine is off unless I used a gauge like you did, or somehow measured the hole that was drilled. Well do you think I should just replace mine for the heck of it? I mean, is the new chuck you installed a better one than what the drill has?
I think it's a better chuck and I like the fact it's keyless. But if you're not having trouble with your existing one I wouldn't bother. Also, off hand I'm not sure if the 4214 and 4212 share the same arbor taper.
@@aaronstestlab I'm so sorry, I miss spoke. I have the 4214!! I thought about that too. Ifs theres nothing wrong with it, don't fix it. But the problem is, is that I don't know if it does wobble or not. If it does then I don't want every hole I drill to be off. And I have no way of measuring it anyways! But if you think that the new chuck would be an upgrade, then it's worth the few bucks to swap it out. It's obvious according to your video that it's more accurate then the stock chuck. Plus, you definitely can't go wrong with a keyless chuck. They are nice lol.
@@aaronstestlab Hi Aaron. Hey I really need your help. I just received the new chuck for the drill press and I noticed that the arbor is not tapered at the end like the one is that came with the drill. Can you please tell me if it's supposed to be like that and do I use the new arbor or do I have to use the original one that came with the drill? If I use this new one will it fit? I was hoping to install it today but I don't know if I can now. Thanks in advance, I can really use your help because I want to put this thing together.
The clicking in the motor is the centrifugal switch closing. It's used for the starter winding to power up the motor.
Just finished my machinist degree and that’s exactly what it is.
Ah yeah I recognised this sound straight away too! Split phase or capacitor start motor from memory?
Yup. It snaps back into position to connect the high torque, but slower, motor windings. When traveling fast enough, the centripetal force pulls it up disconnecting those windings, while the 'go fast' windings take over. On spin down, force disappears, it clacks back into position. It's two parts, one affixed, that slide on the spindle. Spinning makes it swing the 'elbows' out, mechanically separating a connection.
Matthias has a short but great vid which explains this centrifugal switch click. The TH-cam vid ID is GNTvWxl3Isw
Thank you for the review! I also loved the line “that’s not just good, that’s good enough!” As one amazon reviewer wrote “I’m
Not making medical devices in my garage, I’m drilling holes in wood. Are you drilling holes in wood? Then get this.” As for me, I’m by far the least accurate thing in my garage so it seems more than good enough for me. Thanks!
I measure to 1/64th, then mark with a pencil more than twice that wide. This drill press would probably work fine for me.
I purchased this exact model and it landed here today.
I used brake cleaner (it doesn't harm most paints) to clean everything up including the quill and the taper for the chuck I assembled the unit.
I used a dial indicator to test for run out on the quill and found it at 1/2 thousands. I installed the taper into the quill with a rubber hammer and then the chuck into the taper--again using the rubber hammer.
I then installed a brand new Made in the USA 5/16" drill bit and checked for run out. I found only 2 thousands run out.
SO! Before spending another $35 or so on the key less chuck, check the specs for the original units.
While I use key less chucks on my battery powered drills I do prefer a manual chuck on a stationary drill as they tighten and stay tightened.
Use no cholonated brake clean or mineral spirits and the paint will be ok
Albrecht style keyless chucks tighten under load. Your experience is probably with cheaply made keyless chucks.
Albrecht, Rohm, Glacern Machine Tools, etc. You will stall the machine before it lets go of the bit.
My WEN 4214, upon powering down, does make that multi clicking sound. I called wen about it and I too was told that it was normal. I do like my
WEN drill press. I use it strictly for metal. It gets the job done for sure. Thank you very much for the review.
Minimum speed on it ok for drilling metal?
I had this drill press for a while. I sold it because I sold everything I could to avoid having to move it from state to state a couple years ago. I really like the drill press overall. There is a safety concern. The tab on the front pulley that passes through the hall effect sensor (for rpm measurement) was cutting through the power cord insulation. I would estimate it cut about 50% of the way through the insulation before there was no longer contact. I watched it closely for a while and it didn't change from there.
First thing I did was replace the chuck anyway with a setup from Glacern Machine Tools (MT2-DC500). Chucking in a piece of drill rod, I was at about .0007~ total indicated.
Minus the safety issue, I agree that it's the best value there is. By the way, this is the same drill press that JET sells (model 716000) under their name for 2.5x what I paid.
Lazy bastard lol
Really? Same quality of parts/materials?
I just purchased the Wen 4214, I had the same clicking when powering off. Thanks to your video, I see It’s normal. I found your video very informative. Thank you
What I like most about this video is the presentation itself. Not too long, very informative and hit all the important points. The cinematography is excellent and voice articulation is clear and well structured to the subject. I can think of many long winded, boring national TV newscasters that should take lessons from Aaron.
There's an excellent, short video from Matthias Wandel on electrical motors which explains the centrifugal switch click. It's here:
Thanks for the review. There are two set screws that hold the head on the column. It is above the one you tightened
Hi, at 7:40, I'd suggest replacing one of the nuts with a lock nut, or replacing the washer with a rubbery nylon washer. The reason being that the friction from the rubber prevents side to side movement (which is the main cause for loosening nuts)
Alternatively, line both sides of the washer with electric tape.
I bought one of these drill presses about a year ago. For the money I was pretty happy! I will say they are not meant for heavy duty work. On the runout on the press I bought it had .003" with the stock chuck and a router bit I used to measure the runout. I use my press for hobby woodworking and it fits the bill. For the DIY'er on a budget I highly reccomend it.
Take the runout from the tool and my poor measuring skills, Add them together, then they should cancel each other out, giving me an extremely precise hole. 😉. Great review. Extremely informative and great for those with buyer’s remorse or those who know very little about drill presses, like myself; that definitely eased my mind a bit about my purchase. Thank you!
I've had an excellent experience with tech support. No email. Just call. Yes, the tech actually walks over to a tool like the one you are calling about and walks you through any adjustment! Amazing theses days!
"Held in place by a set screw threaded into plastic", is all I needed to hear. Thanks for doing this useful review. Bye Wen!
TBH, I don't recall offhand what that's even referring to. But don't run too fast, it's a great unit for the price. I've been very happy with mine over the past 3 years now.
Omg thanks for talking about the clicking I just got mine and thought something was wrong.
I have a Wen 4212 hack that may work on the 4214 as well....i ordered the wen grinder stand and as i suspected the drill press pole flange and the top flange of the grinder match up perfectly. so you can adapt the desktop model to the floor model for $100. and the water cooling tray is great for often used bits.
great hack for me.
Great review ! I’m a contractor…….and you got right to the essentials of the tool.
You missed the upper set screw, there are two, read them instructions! LOL! Also, "That's not just good, that's good enough!!!" LOL!! Good one! The first noise I could hear (6:34) when it was running sounded like a loose belt. It looked like when you adjusted to the highest speed, the belt went loose. Is that right? Home depot is selling me one for $195 with 10% veteran discount. I think I will get it. Thanks for the review!
Great video helped me make my decision!👍
My only thought was if WEN put a brushless motor on the unit it would run quieter and have a longer life.
🖖
dude thanks! I love this drill press but yea the stock chuck sucks, the runout is insane
thank you for the part recommendation, ordered it already lol
Just livin his best life pre pandemic, I'll be purchasing one of these ASAP.
OK good review and all one thing tho the parts are cast steel not cast iron. The clicking noise is the start winding it has a centrifugal switch once it reaches full speed and the belt should be good for awhile.
Nice review, thanks for posting it. Quick question: did you find the table to be rock solid once you tightened the locking ring or did it move or wiggle?
It's pretty solid, no wobble or anything. But unless you really crank it down, it can move side to size if you press hard enough.
Mine doesnt even lock anymore and table wobbles. I need to find a way of locking it down
Thanks for sharing I just received this I also bought the add on Wen work table which I will be installing I may also get the better chuck and do it all at once again thanks for sharing
You have try resetting the taper a few times. And clean it all.
Mine screeched really bad at the motor output and had noticeable and audible drag when turning the motor by hand. Luckily Amazon had UPS pick it up for a free return. Sucked I had to box it back up -- heavy!
I think that clicking sound may be a device called????? A centrifugal switch. I learned about it on Jeremy Feildings page. When the motor spins up the switch disconnects the starting winding of the motor once the motor reaches normal speed. It’s said to be on pretty much every motor you’d find in your workshop.
Guess I should’ve read the other comments first. :-). Question answered. :-)))))
Well balanced review. Seems like a great drill press in this price range. Wish there was a side by side comparison with the Bauer 12". Very similar specs but the Bauer is somewhat less expensive.
They look identical. Guessing they come out of the same factory. Harbor Freights warranty is terrible though.
Could be helpful to let us know the minimum drill Diameter this 12" Wen can receive.
Also, can the plunger be adjusted to make it tighter, hence no play in it.
Thanks, nice unboxing. 👍
Same question for the Amazon keyless chuck. Thx
That motor sound its came from inside clutch don't worries about it
Just ordered the chuck via your Amazon link hopefully thanks for sharing
I just bought this one and using a dial indicator (just bought that, too) it reads .004 runout at the chuck (measuring on the side where the key holes are) but it reads .113 runout on a milling bit inserted in the chuck. I'm using the drill press mainly for polymer 80 308 lowers and not sure if the runout is too excessive for that. I would think so but trying to find out.
there should be that top set screw like there is in mine.
I have the 4212works fabulous. ABOUT 2 YEARS OLD the first thing I did KEYLESS CHUCK
Thank you for this review, it cemented my decision to go with a JET drill press. I know it is more expensive, but I would be constantly irritated by the noise and inaccuracy of this WEN. I get what I pay for, and not being able to drill an accurate and straight hole, is not good enough.
Which JET drill? The JWDP-12 appears to be exactly the same drill as this Wen.
Exactly the same units, just a color change. Good work!
oh wow i didnt know that they were the same. burned himself with that. jet used to be the name man
By and large I completely agree with this review and valued it in making my decision to buy. The cost versus features pushed me to buy in light of any shortcomings. I should also mention I am an avid WEN customer btw who owns several WEN products... but am also not blind to shortcomings.
My Pros include:
*The CVT-style variable speed adjustment (will never go back to belt switching either, and the reason most people I know get this one), I’ll actually switch speeds rather than just leave it somewhere in the middle ;-) Nice for this price level.
*the use of IRON versus stamped metal in other lower cost units
*the relatively easy assembly,
*good stateside customer service/support (which I actually needed/used), BTW if you brought up the chuck issue, pretty sure they’d have sent you a new one.
*the cost versus features/performance on this.
* the availability of parts (thus far)
My Cons:
*the “fit and finish” like he also stated. The iron base on mine has a bit of unevenness in opposing corners, (bolting it down and shimming it helps). This isn’t unique to WEN though... but should be a QC inspection issue.
*the loudness he mentions is real. It’s noticeably louder than some others in a similar price profile.
*The loud shutoff “clutch/ brake” mentioned is noticeable, but normal.
Like his review states, because the positives can outweigh the negatives for most at this cost-point, this is a decent buy.
*Penenyjeter, does it look possible install a smaller diameter drive pulley to slow down the RPM and drill mild steel?*
There are two set screws to hold the head on the column!!! One straight above the one you tightened!!!
Thanks for a great video. You didn't mention if yours has the 5 amp motor or the earlier 3.2 amp. I have this press with the 5 amp motor. Thanks for the keyless chuck suggestion. I ordered one. I also have the table and spindle sander kit for it. I'm really happy with it. I couldn't afford a name brand unit, and the cheap harbor freight unit it replaced was unusable. Glad I found a good middle ground. Loved your review and thanks for sharing 😊
Thanks for the support! Just went out a looked, this one has the 5-amp motor.
@@aaronstestlab Got the new chuck installed. Sweet!
I got one a while back. I concur with everything you stated.
For the $, it’s an excellent value
Great video Aaron. Appreciate the short but very pointed review. Thank you for taking your time to honestly review this product and provide your experience with it. Just ignore the trolls, they have nothing better to do. Keep on making great, informative and realistic videos, you are very good at it!
Thanks for your excellent video review! Wanted to point out that your link to the uxcell drill chuck links instead to a different product. The uxcell definitely still exists, but is a different link. Thanks again!
You should measure runout with a runout bar, not a forstener bit
@@aaronstestlab Hey, I'm just trying to offer some constructive criticism. Forstner bits can have manufacturing defects in them that caust them to be slightly out of round, or they could warp or twist slightly from use. Point being they arent accurate enough for precision setup.
There are two set screws. Look above the one you set about 3".
I noticed that too while putting the drill together, but the instructions only say to tighten the one.
I enjoyed the video. It was very informative. I'll stick with the multi pulley type speed adjustment. One: Less belt wear. Two: Super easy to replace the belt. and three: For me, I have left the speed on slow and have not change the speed of my drill press in 20 years. Slow speed does all. I drill PVC, wood and steel all on the same speed.
Barry
what RPM do you use?
if you want to get under 5 thou of runout from a 3 jaw chuck or drill chuck you need to buy a reeeally good one. maybe you should buy some kind of indicatable chuck or some collets?
The clicking noise is the centrifugal clutch reengaging when the motor slows down enough. Perfectly normal.
The click from the motor is the centrifugal switch
Great review. I just set my new 4214 up but find the variable speed handle a little stiff, I was wondering if yours is like that? Thanks, Jake
That's a pretty subjective question. It's not super smoother, but nothing I would complain about.
@@aaronstestlab I did watch another review and it looked like the guy used a fair bit of pressure to adjust the speed. Thanks.
Hahaa. The cvt clutch is the same on snowmobiles. Thats funny and love it. Ingenious. No more moving belts on the pulleys. Nice. Tho I baught a wen drywall sander. And yea. well what a disappointment that was. 😕
Good review. I get what you said about well maintained industrial machine sound, it can be so sweet.
We used variable speed pulleys on all our machines at work and they ran for years 24/7 without any wear but it was only for timing the machines with each other on a line and not doing any heavy work such as driving a chuck into wood or metal. This unit looks identical to the Full Boar model which is owned by Ozito.
Full Boar?
@@procrastinator1842 My bad. Yes Full Boar.
Still like it? Still recommend it or should I get something else for the price?
Yup, no problems. For the price I don't know of anything better.
I just bought this one.
it is intimidatingly huge if you aren't expecting it.
That it is. A stand or permanent bench mount is pretty much mandatory. Too big and awkward to move around on it's own.
that's what she said
I wonder if a link belt could be installed on this type of variable speed ?
Is this something I can learn and use to use for drilling through 1/16"-1/2" bits of metal for jewelry pieces? Much appreciated
Absolutely
Nfl players skulls more valuable than a drill press.... debatable...🤣
kind of late to the party but if you still have this drill press whats the distance between the channels on the table? like how big of a vise could fit?
“Felt like I put 2000 dollar rims on a 4000 dollar civic”.. man this guy would be horrified to got to a stance meet 😂
Didn't know what that was. Googled it. Yes, now horrified.
Thanks for this I just got this putting together soon.
Did you clean out the inside of arbor bore before installing the chuck?
yeah, used some long q-tips I had
Why didn't you list the after market key-less chuck link that you had to buy to get an acceptable runout? We'd like to follow your lead......
@Incorrigible Aaron the associate link to the aftermarket chuck goes to a different product than the one you featured, just so you know.
I think I found that chuck on Amazon Uxcell drill MT2 I think.
Welp, I broke down and bought this drill press. I also grabbed a Glacern chuck due to how low the runout is. Plus, a cross slide vise. I should be set for life. ;D
You'll have to let us know how it works with the cross-slide. I've read mixed opinions on whether or not drill presses have the rigidity to deal with the lateral loads involved in milling.
@@aaronstestlab Well, it seems to work fine! I'm mostly using it for fine adjustment fixturing because I'm drilling very small things that my hands are just too shaky to drill anymore. The only downside is the holes on the vise don't match up with the slots on the base. So I'm stuck using C clamps.
Ever think about making an adapter plate? Piece of 3/4" stock with holes drilled to line up with the drill press base and then mount the vise to that.
@@aaronstestlab Was just on my way to the hardware store to pick up some half inch bolts, washers, nuts, and a bit of wood to do just that.... And they closed at 6pm. So I'm gonna hit Ace tonight or tomorrow for the same thing. I'll keep ya up to date and maybe post a quick video of it.
@@aaronstestlab Hey, just wanted to let ya know. I tossed up a very quick and dirty review of that cross slide vise and a chuck I put on the drill. No adapter plate yet, but you can see what I've done at least.
I'm looking at getting one of these, as it looks like a great value judging by reviews like yours and others.
Could you possibly measure the inner diameter of the table mount bracket and let me know what that is (in frame at time stamp 1:53)? I have a specific application that this could be useful for (drilling new lug pattern in a few axles shafts). I'm wondering if the shaft will fit in that mounting bracket.
Thank in advance!
I think I’m going to buy this, for pretty much one reason, that variable speed ease of adjustment just clutch!
Aaron, What keyless aftermarket chuck did you replace the WEN 4214's chuck with?
Don't recall off hand. There's a link in the description though.
in the video, you state a uxcell chuck, your link is to a PSI. so which did you get?
Thanks for a great video! I got this drill press a couple weeks ago. Downsized from 15” floor model. I wish it would do a bit slower speed. Mine goes down to 510 at slowest. Anyone modify it to go slower? If not, what’s the largest diameter Forstner bit you would use for wood at its slowest speed?
Probably 2-1/2" in softwood
The runout might have been in your tool and not the chuck itself, Since the arbour was within .001. You can indicate your drills in if you need to. Most likely a bad load of the drill bit onto the chuck. If you do indicate your drills do yourself a favor and get a test indicator much better for indicating things than a drop indicator which is what the tool you used is called.
Could be. But honestly, I was looking for an excuse to replace with a keyless chuck anyway.
@@aaronstestlab Cool answer. Another Utube review of the Wen 10" stated his chuck also had excessive runout. He removed the chuck, rotated it a bit, and refit it, the runout was okay after that. Another Wen reviewer said he mentioned the problem to Wen support, they sent a new check assembly (and maybe new quill also, not sure about that). That also fixed the problem. Another tip was to create a U shaped wedge to pop off the chuck.
I recently purchased same drill press and The keyless chuck, problem! Now the laser cross hairs are not fully visible due to the longer keyless chuck length! Any ideas how to resolve this?
Are you still using this? How's the cast iron collar for table heigh holding up?
holding up just fine
Any opinions on the updated 4214T model?
To be honest it doesn’t look any different to me. So I have no idea what’s even changed.
@@aaronstestlab Thanks - I couldn't tell the difference from the specs either... Since they changed the number, I am worried about getting the 4214T and then finding out they changed something I'd care about...
Great review!
What's a good drill that can do reverse as well as do lower RPM unlike 100RPM so I can use to tap holes?
The Nova Voyager is the only drill press I'm aware of that can operate in reverse
I can’t decide between the 10” or the 12”. Is it worth it to get the 12”. I’m not finding any difference other than the 2” difference.
Nobody ever complains their drill press is too big
@@aaronstestlab valid point. 👌
Nice review, subbed after watching. Thanks.
I'm still trying to see if anyone replaced the motor with a 2HP motor.
Can't say that I've tried that
Do you have a cross slide vice if so which one works best with that machine
I don't. Drill presses like these aren't really made for side loads. I know some people use them that way but I prefer not to.
Just picked up this press used based on your review, and just ordered the chuck. How did you remove the stock chuck?
Really easy. Just drop down the quill until you see an oval-shaped slot with the end of the arbor visible in it. Then insert the supplied tool(metal, flat on one side and tapered on the other) and give it a light tap with a mallet. The chuck will drop right out. If this isn't clear, just search for "remove morse taper"...I'm sure there's a video demonstrating it.
Aaron Woodwell Awesome. Didn’t come with a chuck key or the tool, but a flat blade screwdriver popped it right out. Looking forward to using my ‘new’ $100 press.
That's weird, mine came with both. I guess packaging consistency isn't a particularly strong suit of import tools.
Got it used for $100, so I’ll buy the tools!
Late bloomer love the video and would like to know about the keyless chuck didn’t find it SORRY
hello!I have a 10 inch induction motor, how can I put it in reverse?
I just got exact model used for a decent price i think however upon inspection i found that the height adjustment locking lever in back has damaged threads and it no longer locks. Do you happen to have a solution. Keep in mind the unit is less than a year old based on manufactured date and previous owner seems like he hardly used it.
Repair the threads with Helicoils
Can this press be used for metal?
Yes sir...take a look at 8:19 in this video where I'm doing just that
Hi Aaron. Is the link that you provided for the keyless chuck the right one for the Wen? I ordered and received it and the arbor doesn't look right.
Is there any way you can take a look at it and please let me know? I don't know which one on Amazon is the correct one for that drill press.
Thanks so much buddy.
Sure, what’s the Amazon link you used?
@@aaronstestlab Hi Aaron. Thanks for getting back to me buddy.
I sent you a few texts I think yesterday, or the day before.
It's the link in your description. That's what I used. That arbor is different than the one for the Wen.
Just double checked the link. It goes to the correct product. If it's a different size than yours, I'd double check they sent the right product. Should say #2MT or MT2 somewhere on it. If you're just noticing the aftermarket product doesn't have a tang on the end(flattened bit), don't worry about it. It will work with or without.
Also, where did you find my number to text? I never received anything but then again, I don't publicly list it so I'm just curious.
@@aaronstestlab Im sorry, I guess I shouldn't have said I "texted" you lol. I meant I contacted you on here. Sorry about that.
So you're saying that the one that this company sent is the correct one? Its NOT from the company you said, Uxcell and it doesn't have that tang on the top.
It does say #2 MT and there's a picture of the product on the box and it matches what's inside. It's from PSI Woodworking.
I found the one that Uxcell sells and it looks EXACTLY like the one you have.
So do I use this one, or use the one from Uxcell that matches??
You also did a review on Amazon for the product, correct? Well, I saw the review and it's under the one from Uxcell, not PSI Woodworking. I noticed that yesterday.
mines broke today after it stalled drilling into a sheet of .050" aluminum.
One question. I don't see a clamp for locking the spindle travel. Am I right or is that what the small set screw with a locknut is for? If so, I would say that is a big downer.
Not totally sure what you mean. Are you referring to setting a depth stop? If so, that's accomplished by a threaded rod and two stop nuts on the left hand side of the machine. Or are you talking about something else?
@@aaronstestlab What I mean is there anything to hold the spindle fixed at a certain depth like when being used with a drum sander so it doesn't return upwards.
@@ubob703Robert Gotcha. The depth stop can be adjusted to control travel and return. In other words, there are stop nuts on either side of the stop. So you can control how far it extends and how far it retracts.
@@ubob703Robert
I would leave the quill all the way up, and move the table up to it.
Bought one and the arbor kept falling out. Called support they said to clean it and that didn't help at all. Returning it tomorrow.
That's too bad. It's a great product overall. Might try hitting both the male and female ends with a scotchbrite pad before you return. Sometimes that machining debris/grease can be hard to remove.
@@aaronstestlab Okay thanks I will try.
I'm finding it a bit underpowered. Spinning a 1-3/8" hole saw through a 2 X 4 stalls the motor pretty easily. I guess I'll have to slow down.
Decent Reveiw , thanks despite the downfalls which are to becexpected of a Tool at this PricePoint Overall it seems to be a pretty good Unit for the Majoritynof Home Shops and other applications for the most part any Used High Quality Floor S😢ta ding DrillPresses are 3 to 4 times the cost without any Warranties and certainly doesn’t give you the Comveinence of having one shipped right to your Door
I'm honored that I've made it all the way to "decent"
@@aaronstestlab Be carful fame can come at a high cost. Thank you for the review! I need to get a drill press and it looks like this is the one.
Great review
Have you tested this on stainless steel? Specifically 1/4in?
Have not...but considering it works just fine on mild steel I can't imagine there being a problem. Might consider cobalt bits though.
Do you have it mounted to floor or table.
Have been just moving it around for 6 months. Next project is to build a rolling stand for it.
You missed one of the set screws for the head. There are two. You missed the top one. Otherwise a nice assembly video.
How do you remove the original chuck?
Using the 4 handle lever rotate the drill to its lowest position. You'll see a slot exposed. Rotate the chuck until you see a recess. The drill should have come with a metal wedge that fits in the recess slot. A few taps on the wedge in the slot should release the chuck. You'll see video examples if you search youtube.
great video! you should make videos about how to make videos :)
Mine is due to be delivered in 2 days. Thanks
Nice. You'll love it.
I really like you desk, did you do a video on it perhaps?
Thanks, I did actually: th-cam.com/video/dYA2PCeI7Ko/w-d-xo.html
Its been 1 yr, how has it been holding up? I'm looking to drill through 1 in or steel
Holding up perfectly
I’m sold I’m picking one up
Dope, you’ll like it
Hello. Thanks so much for posting this video. I just assembled my 4212 last night. I really like WEN products and yes, they may not be for industrial use, but for at home they work perfectly.
But I had a question about that "run out" that you measured.
Can you please tell me what exactly that means and what does it pertain to? I don't have a gauge to measure mine but if I could make an improvement to it, I don't mind.
I just don't know what that means or what it's for.
Any help you can give me would be appreciated. Thanks!!
For lack of a better term, it's how much the chuck "wobbles". In other words, how much your hole size will be off. Or, in the case of drilling metal might indicate how likely your bit is to break. For example, if you had a .125"(1/8) bit on a chuck with .01" runout you'd likely get a .135" hole.
@@aaronstestlab Hey Aaron thanks for responding.
So I probably won't know if mine is off unless I used a gauge like you did, or somehow measured the hole that was drilled. Well do you think I should just replace mine for the heck of it? I mean, is the new chuck you installed a better one than what the drill has?
I think it's a better chuck and I like the fact it's keyless. But if you're not having trouble with your existing one I wouldn't bother. Also, off hand I'm not sure if the 4214 and 4212 share the same arbor taper.
@@aaronstestlab I'm so sorry, I miss spoke. I have the 4214!!
I thought about that too. Ifs theres nothing wrong with it, don't fix it. But the problem is, is that I don't know if it does wobble or not. If it does then I don't want every hole I drill to be off. And I have no way of measuring it anyways! But if you think that the new chuck would be an upgrade, then it's worth the few bucks to swap it out.
It's obvious according to your video that it's more accurate then the stock chuck. Plus, you definitely can't go wrong with a keyless chuck. They are nice lol.
@@aaronstestlab Hi Aaron. Hey I really need your help. I just received the new chuck for the drill press and I noticed that the arbor is not tapered at the end like the one is that came with the drill. Can you please tell me if it's supposed to be like that and do I use the new arbor or do I have to use the original one that came with the drill? If I use this new one will it fit?
I was hoping to install it today but I don't know if I can now.
Thanks in advance, I can really use your help because I want to put this thing together.
that clicking noise is a centrifugal capacitor switch, nearly every engine has one