The Hardest Indoor Boulder Problem Ever Built
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- With the recent success on his previous goal, Alphane (V17/9A), Aidan Roberts has not wasted any time in getting to work on the next. Now his sights are firmly set on what is considered by many the hardest boulder problem in the world - Burden of Dreams (V17/9A). In order to prepare Aidan has been training on a replica of the boulder and shows us the process he has gone through to make the holds and train on them. At this level of climbing we are witnessing what it takes to push the limits of human performance!
Big thanks to Sam Pratt (@samm_pratt) for letting us use the photos of Aidan Roberts. Check out more of this incredible work at www.samprattph...
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Idk why but seeing the boulder with plastic holds made me understand better how hard the climb is
i wish people would make more indoor versions of outdoor climbs for this very reason
@@gualt6762 Also because not everyone has the ability to go train for a boulder problem for 6 straight seasons in Finland.
@@gualt6762 I was talking to a setter at my gym and the reason we don’t have sims is because the head setter wants to keep the climbs “indoor style.” It’s really sad and could be why we don’t see sims in other gyms as well
Imagine going to your local bouldering gym and seeing a problem graded V17 on the wall.
Pssh maybe in your gym
This could very well be a thing though. Think about it, some gyms would have the "dream crusher" wall, a small 45-ish degree wall at some corner with just one problem on it. I'd be stoked if I could just hang on it for a second. Then again I can just go see the real thing, it's like 2 hours car drive away.
@@CJski V9 in my gym
@jrblackify one or two v10s in mine
@@maxim9110 same, me and like 2 other people have to beg to get double digit boulders in its fucked
Aidan seems like such a nice person. Super humble and calm but still very stoked. Also, great ASMR Voice 🤣
How does the friction on the plastic holds compare to the rock? I think most of the time, rock has better friction than plastic but the holds on Burden are notoriously glassy.
He said they were molded and then poured. So I figured that meant they were some kind of aggregate material.
Yeah these holds are quite glassy too. Maybe even more so than the real thing. That's they the last hold (not incut) is a but outrageous to jump to at the moment.
I really love aidan's approach to hard climbs, I feel his level of committement to a project and specialisation really is unmatched in any sport.
Awesome! I started the process of scanning and 3d printing my own project, but never got around to finishing it. This gives me new motivation to finish what I started!
May I ask what app/program you are using for 3D scanning? I want to be able to scan and print molds for resin pours but not sure what to use to scan.
Next Wide Boyz video: WE TRY TO JAM BURDEN OF DREAMS (REPLICA)
That first move is so delicate and unstable. It would be really cool to do some kind of slow-motion physics analysis of why some attempts stick while others don't. I feel like it has something to do with the angle at which you approach the hold, like there is a way to move your body such that your right foot has a higher chance of staying on.
You should invite shawn to project with you. Shared session always pushes an additional 10% out of us!
I think if Shawn enters in a gym his body just burns out like a vampire or so I heard
look more v18 tbh loll
I wish more gyms 3D printed holds from boulders around the world. Whether it be V1 to V17. Sometimes it's nice to pull on realistic holds!
Awesome video Lattice. Really cool to see how minor adjustments on holds as small as those benefit climbers in different ways.
Definitely! If there are some 3D pinting experts here, I wonder what's the limiting factor? Is it the build quality (rigidity of the holds etc.)? Even if there was no standard that climbing holds need to be able to widstand some particular amount of force, they might not be strong enough to last very long in a gym use. Or is it more of a cost or impracticality issue? (expensive materials, and the investment for the 3D printer) and the weight of the 3D printed holds.
@@M0dElite My understanding is that the holds themselves aren’t 3D printed - the molds are printed, and then the holds themselves are poured
@@mark.mazzarella sounds like his other replica which he has at his home wall is in fact 3d printed though, and then these were made from that one
@@mark.mazzarella Oh, of course. 🤦♂ that was silly of me. Well, it probably comes to the cost of making the holds then.
This one works well for the application because the rock is basically a flat slab, where many other outdoor climbs are on a wavey and curved boulder so its harder to replicate the distance and angles between holds.
i reckon you could have taken a photograph of the boulder irl and then projected it onto the climbing wall for better accuracy
You'd still have to faff around and set the height of the projector to the exact height, distance and angle of the camera. I guarantee you've never actually tried that yourself because it sounds like it would be a nightmare
@@AMM1998 agreed. Getting the focal plane to line up with the plane of the wall would be a right pain
@@freerockliketoast eh, if they made chalk marks on specific locations on burden (ex 6ft off of ground, 3 ft from left side, etc.) before the picture, they could just measure the projection on the wall from the markings to verify focal plane
Yves gravelle needs to get hands on those holds too!
How does the 3d print replicate the micro texture of the holds? I assume that the scan doesn't have that much resolution. Do you just have to guess a roughness parameter?
Yeah the texture is not quite right unfortunately but Aidan is looking to add a bit more texture retrospectively.
@@LatticeTraining by sandpapering them?
does anyone have a bead on nalle. Obv no issue he go dark on social media but hope he's doing alright...be cool to see him supervise some of these 2nd send efforts.
such a testament to him sending BOD waaay before the new era pullers emerged...n still think it may get a upgrade, for whatever it means at that level.
He opened a bunch of new stuff/sectors in Rocklands during the summer. And he was also climbing in 'Bleau during the fall. Not too long ago, he was also climbing in Spain.
@@hematula1 ya good ish, think that's all us fanboyers were looking to hear. lol.
Appreciate the reply!
How precise were the scans? Did you get the micro textures of the rock as well? Because I guess it makes quite a big difference for the friction.
It is probably not 1:1 but anyway it is great tool for the training I guess
prolly not, iPhone Lidar is not that precise. But then again Burden is the classic Finnish red granite. So the reasonably crystalline... meaning not a lot of micro texture to speak off (unlike gneiss or sandstone).
Aidan is my favourite boulderer, hands down! So calm and humble, and yet such a beast! Keep crushing, we're rooting for you!!
I wonder if it would be a good idea to set this replica on a kilter board or similar? Then the progress could also be measured by adjusting the steepness.
I've 3d printed and moulded a few holds for my home board, and an absolutely vital step was spraying them down with adhesive/clear coat and adding texture, in my case very fine sand blasting media. Was anything like this one for these or is it just mega slick 3d printed texture?
Can you share the scan or make it public on polycam?
Can we please get a long sesh vlog from Aidan, Shawn and Nalle at the real thing in Finland?
I mean imagine a better watch.
I honestly think that real rock replica holds should be more of a thing in gyms. Imagine a whole bloc just purely covered in these holds
An environmental learning center I went to as a kid had a 3d scan replica of a real wall in Minnesota. It was really cool
'Hanging in this position, is kinda chilled' 🤣
Even though I think this is cool I also think this is highly controversial
Is there anyway the 3d models and measurements could be made publicly available? Or even just the scan ? I want to do the work to put a replica in my gym and I have the equipment to rapid prototype
I also would like the 3d models
Put a tiny slip of timber under the bottom of the last hold b4 it's screwed to the wall to increase its angle?
I believe Aidan is looking to get these textured to help with the last move, and all the other moves for that matter. The slick texture actually wears through skin quicker.
Aidens accent and voice is just so ASMR dude. He always has a backup career doing audiobooks.
Do you follow his Podcast? Careless Talk Climbing Podcast is 🔥
@@LatticeTraining I will check it out
So interesting to see,I’m wondering if you could give this some time to train
and hopefully you can head out to the real thing and see this helps.
what app for scanning
Will we see Aidan out trying the real thing again soon? Perhaps joining Will Bosi in Finland 😀
YeAh boiiii. Statment of youth!. Aidan and Will representing the best of British climbing right now in a humble wholesome way!
Such a sick video!
Is Aidan Roberts and Timothy Claypole from Rent-A-Ghost actually the same person?
Rattled my skeleton, shiver me timbers💀💀💀
Does anyone know what app he used to scan the boulder?
Polycam
@@JHClimbs Ty man
Aiden's second replica after his first blue one?
That's so sick!! Are they the same scans Will Bosi used for when he was projecting it?
Yes, the exact same holds! They trained together on this replica.
@@LatticeTraining thats sick hahaha
My dude almost has the same voice as Pete Whitaker.
Too bad the holds aren't carved from wood.
Huge hat tip for you guys scanning and then moulding these holds... what an awesome idea and great job!
I've always been fascinated with simulator problems, but this takes it to a whole new level!!!
is this aid?
Ayyy a thousandth like
Wow the climbing is evolving so fast now with the 3D printed holds. Idea: maybe try to take some weight off with some hinges and try to do the moves. It would be lot easier to dial it in for your nervous system. Just a tought.
I was giving a power spot the other day to help with this. Its the closest I'll get to doing these moves 😂
They did it very recently haha, the pulley thingy
@@droctowiz5968 haha is there a video of that? :D
V17 in his gym
I kinda feel like Burden of Dreams might actually be harder then 9a. Or at least harder then the other 9a's.
Or its just because of its position in Finland... but the fact that alot of really strong climbers have tried it and not really anyone made good progress and wanted to come back to it might say something... or its just not very fun to climb. lol.
The other 9a's are all pretty long move wise whereas burden is just a few moves. Big island assis already gets 8c+ from most repeaters, I would think Alphane will settle at 8c+ eventually. Not sure about sleepwalker or the other one but I think Buden will stay 9a
Grades have a range. There can be hard V3s and easy V3s while both being actually V3. Daniel Woods even went as far as to say ROTSW is an easier 9A than Megatron is. Burden is probably 'just' hard and inaccessible 9A
You must’ve missed Shawn’s video on it he’s definitely gonna get it done when conditions are good
@@beastofackworth big island assis gets 9a from most ascents, one notorious sandbagger gave it 8C+, 2 others have it soft 9A, which is what alphane is
I think a big reason for the lack of repeats (other than it obviously being extremely hard) is just how remote it is, and the challenge of getting good conditions there. I’m guessing that Shawn will send it eventually if he puts his mind to it
3d scanning and printing replica holds is so future... I love it. Soon people will be able to make or buy replicas of famous climbs to train on anywhere in the world. This is how were gonna see v20 one day. Absolute game changer.
I've heard that Shawn actually send burden when we was there!
If he did, typical shawn fashion lol. We probably wont hear about it till next year. Who did you hear that from?
Helps put it in perspective for mortals
Aidan is 😍😍
Hope Aidan sends the real thing someday 💪
Does anyone know the name of the orange jacket?
I spotted Patagonia
I clicked on this by chance, but would have been much more likely to watch this right away if I knew it was a Burden replica. Just some input if you want it!
Same here. I clicked on it for the 1% chance it would be Burden and it was. Stoked for this series!
5:50 hahah
🔥🔥🔥
lets go
Put Bosi on it!
We did ☺️ video coming soon...
Where can I buy a set of these holds?
coreclimbing.co.uk/ but it would have to be on request only I imagine
@@LatticeTraining thanks!
Weren't there some russians who just did this over the last couple of months? They didn't have the tech for the actual 3D printed holds but it's very similar concept. They're also on YT and planning to climb the route. You guys should connect!
Yeah Vadim Timonov over at Climb Hub had some videos working on it and setting a replica on a Moonboard
I want to see the face on the border official when some russian wants to go to Finland on the premise of 'checking out a rock in a forest". Unless he's a double citizen and has a passport of some other country.
The japanese lads did something similar already pre -covid.
@@samulikilpinen1233 yup, unless there's some sort of exception for professional athletes I doubt they'll be touching it anytime soon
Does anybody know where can I get this red Patagonia crewneck?
first
maybe in the future they could 3d print the whole boulders indoors, so that we do not have to deal with long approaches, mosquitoes, snow, unpredictable weather forecast and so on.
You should check out Hannah Morris's video that features a gym with a full size complete replica of the rhino boulder from Rocklands.
An absolute dream of mine is to open a gym where the “gimmick” so to speak is having a bunch of very high quality replicas of famous boulders. Unfortunately, a big challenge is just that many of the most famous boulders are famous because of how difficult they are, which presents a challenge when your average gym-goer isn’t Shawn Raboutou
Come on, where's the fun in that! :D But seriously, I like the idea of being able to train on holds that have real counterparts in the natural rock.
@@mark.mazzarella That is a good idea but after a v quick time, you will get bored I'm afraid.
yeah why cliimb outside at all! /s
Pretty sure I could set a harder problem.
Me too, I might just go in one day and take away the foot holds. Got to be a least V20 by then.
Next time you should take the whole Burden of Dreams boulder with a bulldozer then a helicopter to your local gym or home (even more convenient) and control every atmospheric condition as well. Send it and claim the second accent. The same as Nalle. What's the point of going climbing outdoors if you can imitate nature with plastic in you local gym? Just build your own 9A/V17, mold it and sell the holds.
jesus relax, its just a sport, no ones claiming that this replaces the real thing, its just for training
Just imagine some kid comes over 1st time climbing and will flash this without even a warm-up, and will call it easy.
Looks ridiculous to me. Impossible.