I completed this job a couple of weeks ago. I could not have done it without this video so thank you from the bottom of my heart! A couple of extra tips. #1. The upper rear motor mount bolt was impossible for me until I used a pry-bar to bend the heat shield material just below it, allowing more clearance. The other 3 bolts on that bracket, I accessed from the front. #2. There is a K-shaped cross brace under the hood near the fire wall. I mobilized the lower (passengers side) leg of this and it made accessing those hidden starter mounting bolts much easier. Also, one might want to replace that motor mount white you’re at it. The passengers side seems to fail at about 100k miles anyway. I had already done this a few months ago.
Thanks for the video as it helped a lot. Have a 3.2L Q5 so less room. Found unbolting the alternator and pushing it to the side gave enough room though to even remove the bracket. Almost gave up at that point before moving the alternator. My engine bracket only had three bolts there looking like a tripod. . Just the belt and four bolts for the alternator so really easy there. Found the bolt on the back easier to access from bottom and back using a swivel on the end and a lot of extension. Couldn’t see it and had to feel for it. Not accessible otherwise. Struggled from the top for couple hours😢. Had to guide the socket from top as someone pushed the extension from the bottom. The other bolt towards the driver side not necessary. Initially took it out but not needed to remove starter. Anyway far cry from the $2300 the dealer wanted. Worst starter replacement ever compared to others I’ve done.
I found one of these for sale for $3600 after watching this video I feel like the owner should pay me $3600 to go through this nightmare starter. The engineers who designed the car with a starter that will need to be replaced consumable part and require you to remove a motor mount to get to it should all be beaten for stupidity!
Great video and good step by step instructions. I have done a few A4 and Q5 starters and have followed this process as you provide here. Just curious since you didn’t replace all the TTY bolts on the mount and bracket didn’t you apply any thread loc tite? I agree with the floor jack under the pan to support the motor I find the edge where the pan is more rigid works well with a quick jack pad or you can use a hockey puck they’re soft and distribute weight well. I don’t know too many people that use the top motor support bars they’re kinda a pain and it would have been in the way accessing those back starter bolts.. again well done 👍🏻
Just did this, I didn’t have a a universal wobble and I had the stick a 1/4 ratchet with the m12 tq and get it from above, thankfully I have baby hands and was able to get in there😭🙏🏽
Please update title and description with all possible makes and models this video could be helpful on, omg I wish I found this sooner for the NIGHTMARE I took on, 2009 AUDI A4 AWD QUATTRO GAS 2.0 TURBO. Omg Thank You so much for posting this!!!
Not sure if anyone still monitors this thread but I have a question. During the tear-down process, those 2 hard to reach bolts that you need to use the long extensions for, any tips or tricks as far as getting them back in without falling off the socket?
Thanks Audi!! I guess I shouldn't make plans for the next 2 days now. Man first the ridiculous issues with my VW Passat and now my A5, after this there will be no more purchases of anything related to a VW. (These guys sure know how to piss ppl off with their stupidity. And P.S.- it should LITERALLY be punishable by prison time to design a vehicle like this, because ppl have no idea what they're getting into when they purchase one of these damn things)
Underrated comment!!! I tell friends and family not to buy anything from VW/Audi. Hell, I tell them if it’s anything other than a Honda/Acura Toyota/Lexus they’re on their own.
Nice tutorial! For those who want cliff notes, here you go: When the starter goes out in your Audi Q5, just sell the car and preferably never buy another VW/Audi ever again. This requires entirely too much effort to simply replace a starter.
Replaced the starter. Followed your video step by step and it’s not working. Is there any other reason it won’t start? Could the antitheft have a part in causing it to not start and if so how would I get the antitheft to not block it? I’ve read that antitheft in the car could block it from starting after replacing the starter
@@happywrenching fap =PARTICULE FILTER , in the 2010s there are several versions B7 B8 B9 hence my question because the engine configuration is not the same depending on the model, you understand???
The two top bolts are really close to the catalytic converter and thats the reason for the low profile sockets. If you disconnect the catalytic converter and move it out of the way, then you can use the regular size sockets.
@@happywrenching I'm talking about the particle filter that you are asking for, why are you dismantling it, I don't understand the reason?? what is your model B7 B8 B9??????
On this Q5 there was no issue. I just shot the video to show how it is done. I also did the same steps on a 2010 A4. On that car, engine would not crank and EPC light was on. EPC light will remain on until the car starts so don't focus on that. In my case, the balance shafts inside the engine seized up. That also broke the starter. Before investing in battery, starter, etc, try to rotate the engine using the crank pulley. If the engine spins freely then move on to looking at starter, battery, and wiring.
@thecrusader3941 nothing needs to be removed. You should be able to rotate with the belt still in. To confirm, timing chain needs to be removed and then you can attempt to rotate balance shafts. Did this job in the driveway. $1k in parts - thats two balance shafts and all timing parts replaced. Starter was also fried and had to be replaced.
Not sure which bracket you are referring to since there are several but I used an impact on pretty much everything except the bolts on the transmission side for the starter and starter cable bracket.
Honda & Toyota: Let’s make most of the parts easy to get to and service. That way, people will know if something goes wrong it’s no big deal to fix. And said people will buy more of our cars. VW/Audi: Let’s make things super hard to work on to force people to buy of our cars 😊
Covered up by the engine bracket. Taking the alternator out or at least removing the belt and bolts for the alternator allows one to move it to the side and remove the bracket. Have 3.2L and wasn’t happening otherwise.
Please put PETROL in the title of this video.... on the 2.0L diesel, there's no way in hell you're access those top starter bolts from the top, there's just too much pipework/cables/stuff between the engine and bodywork to gain access.
I completed this job a couple of weeks ago. I could not have done it without this video so thank you from the bottom of my heart!
A couple of extra tips. #1. The upper rear motor mount bolt was impossible for me until I used a pry-bar to bend the heat shield material just below it, allowing more clearance. The other 3 bolts on that bracket, I accessed from the front. #2. There is a K-shaped cross brace under the hood near the fire wall. I mobilized the lower (passengers side) leg of this and it made accessing those hidden starter mounting bolts much easier.
Also, one might want to replace that motor mount white you’re at it. The passengers side seems to fail at about 100k miles anyway. I had already done this a few months ago.
Thanks for the video as it helped a lot. Have a 3.2L Q5 so less room. Found unbolting the alternator and pushing it to the side gave enough room though to even remove the bracket. Almost gave up at that point before moving the alternator. My engine bracket only had three bolts there looking like a tripod. . Just the belt and four bolts for the alternator so really easy there. Found the bolt on the back easier to access from bottom and back using a swivel on the end and a lot of extension. Couldn’t see it and had to feel for it. Not accessible otherwise. Struggled from the top for couple hours😢. Had to guide the socket from top as someone pushed the extension from the bottom. The other bolt towards the driver side not necessary. Initially took it out but not needed to remove starter. Anyway far cry from the $2300 the dealer wanted. Worst starter replacement ever compared to others I’ve done.
Thank you bro for such a great instruction on replacing such a pain in the butt starter. Audi engineers must've been high when making this :)
I think it was intentionally to make customers go back to the "stealership" to make more profit for audi
Thanks a lot for the post, today with your help I made my work a few hours easier
Merci, grâce à ton tutoriel j ai réussi à changer mon démarreur 👍
I found one of these for sale for $3600 after watching this video I feel like the owner should pay me $3600 to go through this nightmare starter. The engineers who designed the car with a starter that will need to be replaced consumable part and require you to remove a motor mount to get to it should all be beaten for stupidity!
Indeed lol
Current situation
Great video and good step by step instructions. I have done a few A4 and Q5 starters and have followed this process as you provide here. Just curious since you didn’t replace all the TTY bolts on the mount and bracket didn’t you apply any thread loc tite? I agree with the floor jack under the pan to support the motor I find the edge where the pan is more rigid works well with a quick jack pad or you can use a hockey puck they’re soft and distribute weight well. I don’t know too many people that use the top motor support bars they’re kinda a pain and it would have been in the way accessing those back starter bolts.. again well done 👍🏻
Just did this, I didn’t have a a universal wobble and I had the stick a 1/4 ratchet with the m12 tq and get it from above, thankfully I have baby hands and was able to get in there😭🙏🏽
Thanks for the detailed video
02:33 FLAK! Very helpful video, thanks.
Excellent video so helpful and informative thanks
Well Done, you did an excellent video.
Thank you Boss 😭 You saved me Hours
Please update title and description with all possible makes and models this video could be helpful on, omg I wish I found this sooner for the NIGHTMARE I took on, 2009 AUDI A4 AWD QUATTRO GAS 2.0 TURBO.
Omg Thank You so much for posting this!!!
Glad this helped!
Thanks for the video I watched this and did the work myself thanks but it was a headache frfr
Not sure if anyone still monitors this thread but I have a question. During the tear-down process, those 2 hard to reach bolts that you need to use the long extensions for, any tips or tricks as far as getting them back in without falling off the socket?
At the @7:22 point in the video, what 3/8" socket did you use on that triple-square bolt head?
VERY NICE AND I LIKE THAT GOOG JOB
Thanks Audi!! I guess I shouldn't make plans for the next 2 days now. Man first the ridiculous issues with my VW Passat and now my A5, after this there will be no more purchases of anything related to a VW. (These guys sure know how to piss ppl off with their stupidity. And P.S.- it should LITERALLY be punishable by prison time to design a vehicle like this, because ppl have no idea what they're getting into when they purchase one of these damn things)
Underrated comment!!! I tell friends and family not to buy anything from VW/Audi. Hell, I tell them if it’s anything other than a Honda/Acura Toyota/Lexus they’re on their own.
Extremly helpfull and proffesional thanks alot.
I will not buy an Audi car that is not suitable for someone who does not hold a master’s degree in mechanical engineering
Nice tutorial!
For those who want cliff notes, here you go:
When the starter goes out in your Audi Q5, just sell the car and preferably never buy another VW/Audi ever again. This requires entirely too much effort to simply replace a starter.
100% flak!!, 2009 audi a4 quattro 2.0t
What was the time you need for these komplex prozess ? 😮
Replaced the starter. Followed your video step by step and it’s not working. Is there any other reason it won’t start? Could the antitheft have a part in causing it to not start and if so how would I get the antitheft to not block it?
I’ve read that antitheft in the car could block it from starting after replacing the starter
Thank you so much ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Hello its same for a4 b8 2010 ?? did you remove the fap bis from the turbo to access the 2 starter screws to remove it??
I did the same procedure on a 2010 A4 and it is pretty much the same. No idea what a fap bis is.
@@happywrenching fap =PARTICULE FILTER , in the 2010s there are several versions B7 B8 B9 hence my question because the engine configuration is not the same depending on the model, you understand???
Omg, finally found this video after tearing into the exhaust and getting nowhere, on 2009 AUDI A4 QUATTRO AWD GAS 2.0 TURBO, FLAK!!
thanks for VDOs
Does it have to be those low profile ones i have some but they aren't that low of a profile like the ones you have
The two top bolts are really close to the catalytic converter and thats the reason for the low profile sockets. If you disconnect the catalytic converter and move it out of the way, then you can use the regular size sockets.
why do you dismantle the particle filter? its a model B7 B8 ???
Not sure which filter you are talking about, where in the video is it?
@@happywrenching I'm talking about the particle filter that you are asking for, why are you dismantling it, I don't understand the reason?? what is your model B7 B8 B9??????
What was the issue, did it have EPC light on or check engine light? I have P305400 code
On this Q5 there was no issue. I just shot the video to show how it is done. I also did the same steps on a 2010 A4. On that car, engine would not crank and EPC light was on. EPC light will remain on until the car starts so don't focus on that. In my case, the balance shafts inside the engine seized up. That also broke the starter. Before investing in battery, starter, etc, try to rotate the engine using the crank pulley. If the engine spins freely then move on to looking at starter, battery, and wiring.
@thecrusader3941 nothing needs to be removed. You should be able to rotate with the belt still in. To confirm, timing chain needs to be removed and then you can attempt to rotate balance shafts. Did this job in the driveway. $1k in parts - thats two balance shafts and all timing parts replaced. Starter was also fried and had to be replaced.
Is it possible to use the impact for the bolts that holds the bracket ?
Not sure which bracket you are referring to since there are several but I used an impact on pretty much everything except the bolts on the transmission side for the starter and starter cable bracket.
Are 'triple square' bolts simply called Torx?
Similar but not the same. Triple square bolts have twelve "splines" while torx have six.
Honda & Toyota:
Let’s make most of the parts easy to get to and service. That way, people will know if something goes wrong it’s no big deal to fix. And said people will buy more of our cars.
VW/Audi:
Let’s make things super hard to work on to force people to buy of our cars 😊
Thank you
I've got to get rid of this car.
Crazy.
German engineering at its finest! lol
شكرا لك على التبسيط و الشرح المفصل
الحرية لفسطين
Instead of taking all these stuffs out you should just take the Alternator out and you you’re done ☑️
Covered up by the engine bracket. Taking the alternator out or at least removing the belt and bolts for the alternator allows one to move it to the side and remove the bracket. Have 3.2L and wasn’t happening otherwise.
Easssyyyyyy!!!
Please put PETROL in the title of this video.... on the 2.0L diesel, there's no way in hell you're access those top starter bolts from the top, there's just too much pipework/cables/stuff between the engine and bodywork to gain access.
Thanks for the feedback, I have added that to the description.
Why should you even purchase such a complex car while you can do a Toyota in 10 minutes wasteful engineering
Audi stupid starter design.
I first loosen the starter n pull it out n then take the wires off. Its not that hard to loosen 13mm nut once its pulled out lil bit.