Duuuuude! That Cine-D correction LUT is absolutely brilliant! If the rest of your exposure and white balance is correct it subtly changes that green/yellow tinge to a nice natural skin look! Fair play, brother! Keep up the great work!
Dude you’re king. I‘ve had the GH5 since a few weeks and I‘ve been consistently dissatisfied with the footages from various TH-camrs and my own. At the start of this vid I was immediately like „I want what this guy’s havin“ because I‘m generally looking for the most natural look, with maybe a cinematic touch to it. Thank you very much!
Myles is like the lad from the house next door, who's great to chat to about the stuff he likes, and you just sit back and think, 'yeah, great', and go away with another swag of useful tips. I bought his course a couple of months ago when I was struggling to make head or tail of my new GH5 (having come from a the much more basic Canon XA series. Good cameras, but not with the capabilities of the GH5). I found Myles' course very useful. and THE BEST part being his quick and useful responses to my queries (as if he's just hopped the fence to chat about them). MYLES: great video on CineD and LUTS. If I wasn't colourblind I'd be able to see the difference between the before and afters. (Sooo frustrating!)
Hello, Myles. I am currently taking your GH5 Class on UDEMY..I'm about 50% complete it has been amazing so far!. I've just subscribed so I can keep up with your You Tube Videos to supplement the Class. Highly Recommend your course!.
Thanks for this, Myles! I went crazy this weekend on doing Cine-D tests with this and the Leeming LUT. I noticed that I had a lot of these problems in 1080 but not 4K. Will be great to use this on the higher frame rate work.
Thanks Nate! It does make sense that there’s be more colour info in 4K (and smaller macro blocking) and of course 10 bit should have an advantage over 8 bit for smoother colour once graded :)
Mannnnn I just downloaded the luts and I'm SO STOKED you made these and I stumbled across this video. I really like working with the cine-d profile but just couldn't find a great way to get rid of that weird greenish hue on the skin/facial hair etc. Was having some mixed feelings on the beloved natural profile in the highlights and was recently sort of puzzled on which profile to continue to shoot with. This has answered my question. LEGEND.
Thank you so much for this Myles! I just bought my very first video capable camera, Lumix G9, and I'm thankful I found this correction LUT for Cine-D. I've tried it and it's PERFECT. Great work!
Thanks for the free LUT. I normally shoot live theatre, concerts and dance shows with two GH5s and one GH5 Mk2 using the natural colour profile. I wanted to give the Cine D a try. Thanks for all the good info. I think I still prefer the Natural colour profile.
Me too actually! Cine D is good for people that really want to extract every bit of dynamic range but to be honest I found Natural to be more pleasing! Thanks for commenting
I have a G9 anche these days of Quarantene I was studying how to better my works. I am a TH-camr even if with a smaller channel. For this reason I subscribed to your channel. Because I understand what it means to have a channel under 10k. So here I am. This said your lesson about Cine D has been great. Thabk you. If my channel will get better it will be part because of you. Thank you!
I'm gonna give yours a try. I've never liked leeming's luts, and think they're a waste off money. Though another factor might be the skin of the individual and also foundation the women use, which in some cases makes skin look terrible!
Thanks for the in depth look at colour correction. I'm obsessed with colour accuracy. It would be great if you did a video on the HLG colour profile. Great work
A good tutorial, is helped me a lot. Back in the days when I made (analog) color slides I often used a greycard. Nice to see it still exists. I use FCP now, and since 3 years I use LumaFusion on iPad. There is colour corruption in that, and you can apply LUTs, but there no measuring tools like a Vectorscope and all that.
@@ShotByMyles It is getting more and more a very serious NLE editor. In fact all I miss right now are masks, and, as I mentioned before, the colour measuring tools. On our RV trips (we have a small RV, 5.5 meters) I only take my DJI OsmoPocket, the DJI Mavic Mini and a 9.7' iPad. I travel light! Take care!
@@JandeBloois1952 I just watched 'The Long Way Up' with Ewan McGregor on Apple TV, and I'm pretty sure they were using OsmoPockets a lot, so you know it's good!
You got it! After a lot of testing, Cine-D seems like the best bet for getting something usable straight out of camera that will also take a grade - and your LUT is excellent for that purpose!
Evil Genius Entertainment absolutely, I’ll use cine -d for creative projects where I cant use Log (slow motion work for example), although for corporate work I am leaning Natural these days which allows some grading but looks even better straight out of camera :) Hope it serves you well!
Myles, nice work. Thanks so much for such a clear explanation. I think both your and Leeming's Cine D LUT work very well. The wise advise you give that everyone should pay close attention to is getting correct exposure in-camera and making sure you are white balanced correctly before you apply the LUT. No matter how good a LUT may be it won't completely correct poor white balance. When I'm shooting Cine D, in studio, I turn down contrast to -3, drop my saturation to -2 and I set the Hue to +1 to help get rid of the yellowish/green tint you mentioned....and, for me, at least, the +1 hue correction works well enough, so the reds are not pushed to the left of the skin tone line when I enter it into Final Cut. And, of course, you've got to ETTR to some degree to have Leeming's LUT work with minimal correction--though an exposure correction after you apply the LUT is not that big a deal with the robustness of the GH5 codes. Either way, Cine D can be a really great looking profile that will give you a lovely finished image--but you gotta get the sickly yellow/green out of the image. I'm sure your video here will help a lot of people who want to use Cine D but have no idea of how to deal with the funky colors. Again GOOD JOB. ...and the Panasonic GH5 entering 2020 Anno Domini: still up there with the best of them---still a killer good camera, far, far, far from being obsoleted.
Thanks for your comment William! I've never actually tried Hue +1 I don't think, so I might do that thanks for the tip! Cine-D can be rewarding for that reason- you get a dull / sickly image out of camera but when you wrangle it in to something nice it's satisfying :) Agreed on the GH5 being up there with the best! I'm sure we'll still be seeing stuff filmed with it in 5 years' time as it does so much so well.
@@ShotByMyles I think we're very much on the same page here. Regarding +1, moving the tint toward magenta and away from yellow/green; I got sick of the sickly look--and I think +1 is good enough to do most of job----as long as you white balance well.. Of course, there are many ways to skin particular cats with digital video---but, it seems to me that doing as much in-camera as possible is the best way to go.
Really, really helpful thanks for that! Will be checking out the next one also as I going to start using Natural for non-commercial/quicker workflow videos.
My man! Thank you sir. I really like the GHAlex lut for Vlog, but I've a few issues with Vlogs performance in low light. Probably my settings, but this is still a great option to have
No worries, cheers Robert! Yes v-log isn't ideal for low light... I've heard good things about HLG but I find it annoying to work with and obviously you can only use HLG in 10-bit profiles. So I'd actually suggest you give cine-d a go for low light stuff! All the best with it
Great voice Myles, great video. Keep up the good work my friend. Thank you for the free LUT! Though, I have no idea how to use it. :( I film with my GH5 using the Natural colour profile.
Thanks a lot, very gracious of you! This video is about the Cine-D LUT but I am also doing one for Natural. I only think Natural really needs a correction when you use the settings White In Revery shared which adjusts the Hue to -1. If you didn't change Hue and only reduced sharpness and contrast in the camera profile, then I really like natural with just a bit of saturation and maybe some contrast added in post. My next video will make that clearer, and hopefully explains how to use it, but if not do ask :)
No worries! I'm not a colourist no, I deal with all the aspects of producing video though so I still have to get involved with colour and it's one of my favourite bits :) that said the LUTs relied heavily on colour charts to stop me just going by eye!
Thanks for developing these LUTs Myles, like many I use the Leeming LUT but very keen to give these a go. I know I should be using a white or grey card, given I'm mainly filming my family it just never happens. Might just have to get my kids some of those 18% grey t-shirts and call it a day. Leeming LUT doco is quite prescriptive on exposure, think the recommendation for Cine-D is to set the zebra to 100%. Will it be similar for yours?
Haha middle grey t-shirts is a glorious idea!! The last Leeming LUT I liked was version 502 as it didn't change exposure. If you've ever checked it out on a colour chart it seems to be a really small change in the skin tones and that's about it, I think it's even more subtle than this one! I do use 100% zebras just so I know what parts of my image will be lost / pure white, but you could do the same thing with the waveform. This LUT should be quite forgiving with exposure in the sense that it doesn't make a huge shift that you then need to adjust for. I tested it on shots which were exposed normally (middle grey card at 50% IRE) and also shots that were ETTR and I think it works well for both. The ETTR shots obviously have to have exposure pulled down in post, and in either case 2 things are certain: 1. underexposure is a killer if you are trying to raise exposure in post (bad colours and noise), and 2. whatever is overexposed above 100 in camera will be lost, which is why it's important to know what's clipping with the 100% zebra. Anecdotally I find colour rendition and textures are starting to go funky before you hit 100% so I wouldn't want important skin tones at 90 for example. I ditch ETTR when I can and expose normally because I think it makes life easier in post, possibly at the expense of the last 5% in dynamic range that no one would notice :)
I think that’s brave on the GH5 sensor, it’s very susceptible to noise! That’s not a recommendation you hear often but finding what works for you is most of the battle!
@@ShotByMyles We would never touch a GH5, but yea, on the GH4 and the bigger varicam boys, shooting to the left is the way to go. That's just how we do things in the industry.
I've also been watching videos, and reading posts that claim HLG is better than V-Log. It demands a lot of work in post, but if you have a LUT that converts it from Rec2020 to Rec709, then it's comparable to the other non-HDR profiles in regards to difficulty. Have you experimented with it?
great video! this has really helped me understand the order to do things in so thanks! I want to create that film look with the least amount of editing and i really do not want to go down the v-log route for several reasons, time, only working off a macbook, way too involved for a begginer etc. just got my gh5 and its my first proper camera, i'm gonna shoot cine D 4k 24fps, 60fps and some 180fps in 8 bit 100mbps as i only have the one memory card (64gb sandisk pro) and also don't think my laptop could handle 10 bit, does all of this sound right to u? also thanks for showing how this stuff is done on FCPX as most videos on here deal with premiere!
Thanks a lot! That all sounds good to me! I’d just say that 180fps sometimes doesn’t look the best because it has to compress each frame so much- 120P for me is a better balance between very slow and good quality. I’d make sure your memory card is rated v30, and finally if you were in Europe / Australia I’d personally stick to PAL mode and 25 / 50 / 125 fps, otherwise the ones you said. Good luck with it! You’ll need to experiment with colour grading beyond my LUT of course for the film look, and obviously so much comes down to the lighting / sound design / camera movement / scene / actors / story for film-like videos :)
Good day, I really enjoyed this video, I'm coming from using a traditional video camera and I recently bought the GH5 to step up my level of production, I'm interested in purchasing your course from Udemy to help fast track the learning curve of the GH5.. my only question is, is the course downloadedable or available offline as well? My internet connection is not the best and want to go through the course in a short space of time.
Hello! Yes the lectures are downloadable to watch offline, there’s a good Udemy app to watch them on iOS and presumably one for Android too :) All the best with the GH5 either way!
Thanks for the LUT, but I think with natural or standard profile you could reach better results with almost zero color correcting or grading. So, to me it's not really comprehensible why people like profiles like cinelike d or v tbh.
You can ETTR or go for a normal exposure, the LUT will work with both :) If you ETTR then you'll need to bring the exposure down in post as normal. I expose normally when I have time by getting my middle grey card at about 50%, or without the card I look for caucasian skin tones to be around the 65% mark on the waveform. All the best!
Could you share one of the earlier versions of the Leeming LUT. I don't really like the newer version, or perhaps demands too much from me and my amateur skills. I'm a new GH5 user and also a beginner in regards to colour correction and grading. Thanks in advance.
Myles, does your Udemy GH5 course discusses the Auto Focus post the 2.4 firmware upgrade? (if it even makes any difference, training wize...). Thanks, Edo
Hi Edo, the course examples are done from v2.3, and on all honesty where I land in the course is still my recommendation on the latest firmware. Hope that helps!
How does color accuracy (compared to real life) of simply doing natural with minimal or zero post compare to applying lut over cinelike-d? I've always shot natural and have been pretty satisfied with it in terms of accuracy. Will going through your process actually gain me anything in that department (outside of DR)
That's a good question, and honestly I haven't tested. This LUT is based on colour chart colours so I wouldn't claim 100% accuracy for everything. Compare that to Panasonic who have WAY more resources when it comes to creating their colour profiles, you'd think they should beat me in terms of colour accuracy :) Given you're already happy with Natural I wouldn't really recommend complicating your workflow for accuracy alone.
@@ShotByMyles i will try it ! Thank you for your reply, what is your recomendation for middle tones? Just under 70? Im struggle with cine-d, im currently shot on natural with everything on 0 😐
@@mgvideouk thanks! Mid tones should be lower than that I think, I’d want the key-lit side of a Caucasian face to be around 70… there’s nothing wrong with Natural though, most jobs and clients won’t need flatter footage, they won’t know or care! Some of my favourite footage is Natural out of camera. Check out my video called ‘colour grading in camera’ or something…
Hi Myles. What do you think about shooting in Cine-D in 8-bit and applying your LUTs later on? Is 8-bit good enough for it? What about settings of Contrast etc? I mean values. And is Zebra 100% fine? Thank you in advance for your answer. I use Lumix GX9.
8 bit and Cine-D is fine, obviously more flexibility with 10 bit but if you make sure your white balance and exposure is good in camera while shooting you’ll be fine I think. Settings values I think I give them in this video for the LUT 👍🏻 I’d go 95 zebra to judge your overexposure, good luck!
@@ShotByMyles Thank you for the answer. At 5.28 there are the parameters. Do you think Cine-D ensures much more DR than Natural profile? I wonder if skin can be graded very well vs Natural profile. Ok, Zebra 95%. How do you assess you LUT vs Leeming's one?
@@aleksanderkozak5204 not much more DR from cine-d, but if you’re pushing your grades then there is some IMO, but it’s still going to be noisy if you’re trying to dig detail out of the shadows. Honestly I really liked using Natural and any minor reduction in DR would probably never be noticed by a real world client. Natural is a better starting point for skin tbh, but cine-d is good if you’re comfortable grading, especially for a more ‘cinematic’ look. I personally didn’t love the Leeming LUT I had but then he did revise them and built it out in to things like luma corrections. At that point I was using my own or grading from scratch or trying GH Alex!
Hi, thanks for the info. I went to your web landing page as suggested and signed up, then got a message to check my email for confirmation step. 3 hours later, still no email? Isn’t that supposed to slingshot out straight away after I click the sign up button?
Hi Reginald, yes it should’ve been very fast- did you check your junk / spam folder? Otherwise is there any chance you input the incorrect address? When I tested it I got the response within a couple of minutes. Sorry to hear you’re having issues!
Shot by Myles I used auto-fill so not much chance of wrong address. I’ll check to see if it got put in a spam folder or something. Doesn’t usually happen though as I don’t use filters.
Reginald Worthington I’ve re-generated the email for you in case, let me know how you get on! I can see it has worked for other people and retested myself and got an almost instant email, so it’s a strange one if it’s not in your spam!
Very helpful video, thank you! I have one main problem which is driving me crazy... As soon as I'm shooting indoors, I get a lot of noise in the midtones. (GH5+Sigma18-35 no speedbooster ISO 200-800, Cine-D, Natural, Cine-V,...) I asked many people but nobody could help me. Do you have any idea what could be wrong? Thank you in advance!
Assuming there’s nothing wrong with your camera, noise is normally due to under-exposure or high ISO. At 800 you should be fine in the midtones if they’re exposed alright. How do you check exposure? I don’t de-noise at all at those ISOs although it’s never 100% clean either. Contrast and compression of the video by TH-cam helps hide noise. Also remember if shooting v-Log that there’s barely any noise reduction done in-camera, so you’d have to do that in post.
@@ShotByMyles Thanks for the quick response. I check exposure with the histogram (in low light it's more to the left, rather than spread out) I am only shooting in cine d and the NR is at +5
NiceTry Productions if it’s low light you have to expect noise I’m afraid! When not shooting low light I still might see it in the shadows but it shouldn’t be distracting in the mids too much. Sometimes an aggressive grade can also cause noise, but otherwise while you’re in Cine-D I’d expect an improvement when you add contrast and acceptable levels from your well exposed non-low light footage!
@@ShotByMyles Shot by Myles Alright, thank you so much for the help. I will keep on testing. I've also enlisted to your Udemy course ;) May I contact you again, if I'm on the verge of a mental breakdown because I can't figure it out? xD
I’d say the best ISO is the one that gives you the correct exposure :) but in reality it’ll be 200 (if your exposure is good) as that’s about the best noise and dynamic range performance for the GH5. If you can de-noise in post then I’d be ok up to 3200 at a real push, but otherwise I’d want to keep below 2,000 and ideally 200-800
@@ShotByMyles Okay, thanks :-) But as far as I can see it´s an complete color transform LUT from V-Log to Rec.709 and not an correction LUT only, right?
burn4ever no worries, you’re right yes but the cine-d LUT I give away here is designed for cine-d’s colour which I think is different to v-log, and also with it being based off specific cine-d settings it’d take more work to get it right on v-log than it’s worth to be honest!
Seriously...I think people can spend hours, days, months or years trying to get a certain 'LOOK' when 99.9% of the people watching this video would have no problem with how your first examples of what you called 'sickly looking' looked. And often we talk about color grading as a 'creative' process where what one person may think is the perfect creative look, the next person will think it looks horrible. I purchased the V-Log L from Panasonic not to have more creative freedom with the colors but for the increased dynamic range. I often find myself in situations where I am not able to control the light such as a large open window with bright sunlight coming in casting 'hot spots' on the floor and other areas of the room and then deep shadows in the same room near my subject. Sure...I use lights to illuminate my subject but those hotspots created by the sunlight shooting in through the large windows are still very bright in comparison. That is why I will shoot in V-LogL in those situations. Not to spend countless hours tweaking the colors which if you let it...can drive you insane.
Absolutely, if we're talking about the casual viewer and average consumer of video content, there's a good chance they have no idea about the skin tones and wouldn't claim to care. I'd wager that would similarly apply to the hotspots you're controlling with log! I've never had a client comment on the dynamic range of a single shot of mine that wasn't done in Log. We are told over and over how skin tones are essential because as humans we're sensitive to skin colour even if it's subliminal. That's why I think this correction was worth it, especially for free as I'm offering it here at the moment given Mr Leeming's paid LUTs just corrected the skin tones too for a good length of time. And I do consider this a correction- I totally agree if you grade a 'look' you may end up skewing skin tones, but I'd still argue that should be done from a neutral starting point. You can see the skin tones on the vector scope so that's also why I'd personally call this a correction rather than a creative application. Thanks for commenting and adding to the debate!
@@ShotByMyles Yeah...good point. I shoot video for internet content and not the latest 4K HDR TVs or for the 'big screen'. I've been a pretty much eye-balling things using zebras for exposure and custom color temp settings I can adjust with the GH5 right before I start recording. But now that I'm starting to play around with VLogL...I can't use those 'shortcuts' anymore and need to learn to read the various scopes correctly to make sure I'm getting good exposure and color during recording. I may eventually want to start shooting video for content other than just web video so that is why I'm just now learning how to work with VLogL, using a Atomos Ninja V recorder, scopes, etc.
Drew Hanson agreed, v-log is a bit tougher to shoot, I’d much rather the waveform behaved the same as it does with the other profiles! You should still be able to use zebras at 80% to show what’s clipped but yes otherwise it’s a bit trickier and I miss the ‘what you see is what you get’ :) I’ve heard nothing but good things from Atomos users, I’m jealous!
@@ShotByMyles I downloaded your free luts and I took your Udemy tutorial...my question is, in a gray card that you shoot for post production using a final cut, what is your WB setting in camera? auto?, custom? etc...
@@marlonfernandezmariano427 I don’t shoot auto WB for video because the camera can shift WB mid-clip which is difficult to correct :) I prefer to set white balance in camera with a white card or grey card, or if I don’t have time I will set a WB Kelvin setting in camera judging by eye. If it’s close in camera then correction is easier later. Good luck!
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Duuuuude! That Cine-D correction LUT is absolutely brilliant! If the rest of your exposure and white balance is correct it subtly changes that green/yellow tinge to a nice natural skin look! Fair play, brother! Keep up the great work!
Dude you’re king. I‘ve had the GH5 since a few weeks and I‘ve been consistently dissatisfied with the footages from various TH-camrs and my own. At the start of this vid I was immediately like „I want what this guy’s havin“ because I‘m generally looking for the most natural look, with maybe a cinematic touch to it. Thank you very much!
Absolutely love that, thank you and all the best with the GH5!
Myles is like the lad from the house next door, who's great to chat to about the stuff he likes, and you just sit back and think, 'yeah, great', and go away with another swag of useful tips. I bought his course a couple of months ago when I was struggling to make head or tail of my new GH5 (having come from a the much more basic Canon XA series. Good cameras, but not with the capabilities of the GH5). I found Myles' course very useful. and THE BEST part being his quick and useful responses to my queries (as if he's just hopped the fence to chat about them). MYLES: great video on CineD and LUTS. If I wasn't colourblind I'd be able to see the difference between the before and afters. (Sooo frustrating!)
Hello, Myles. I am currently taking your GH5 Class on UDEMY..I'm about 50% complete it has been amazing so far!. I've just subscribed so I can keep up with your You Tube Videos to supplement the Class. Highly Recommend your course!.
That’s amazing Steven thank you! Really glad you’re finding it useful :)
Thanks for this, Myles! I went crazy this weekend on doing Cine-D tests with this and the Leeming LUT. I noticed that I had a lot of these problems in 1080 but not 4K. Will be great to use this on the higher frame rate work.
Thanks Nate! It does make sense that there’s be more colour info in 4K (and smaller macro blocking) and of course 10 bit should have an advantage over 8 bit for smoother colour once graded :)
@@ShotByMyles I hope you can make luts for action cam like the Osmo Action & GoPro's thank you.
Mannnnn I just downloaded the luts and I'm SO STOKED you made these and I stumbled across this video. I really like working with the cine-d profile but just couldn't find a great way to get rid of that weird greenish hue on the skin/facial hair etc. Was having some mixed feelings on the beloved natural profile in the highlights and was recently sort of puzzled on which profile to continue to shoot with. This has answered my question. LEGEND.
Love that, thanks Tom! Hope they serve you well :)
Thank you so much for this Myles! I just bought my very first video capable camera, Lumix G9, and I'm thankful I found this correction LUT for Cine-D. I've tried it and it's PERFECT. Great work!
Amazing, hope you enjoy the camera and your journey!
Thanks for the free LUT. I normally shoot live theatre, concerts and dance shows with two GH5s and one GH5 Mk2 using the natural colour profile. I wanted to give the Cine D a try. Thanks for all the good info. I think I still prefer the Natural colour profile.
Me too actually! Cine D is good for people that really want to extract every bit of dynamic range but to be honest I found Natural to be more pleasing! Thanks for commenting
Thank you for the LUT's. As a late comer to the GH5, looking forward as a hobbyist to put together interesting video and will definitely try these.
Still a great camera! Hope you love it 👍🏻
Great video man.
Just bought my GH5 and noticed the green tint in my test shots. This helped me a lot. Thanks.
Dude! You are the best!! Thank you for helping all of us GH5 users with your videos. Keep up the amazing work!
Too kind thank you :)
I have a G9 anche these days of Quarantene I was studying how to better my works. I am a TH-camr even if with a smaller channel.
For this reason I subscribed to your channel. Because I understand what it means to have a channel under 10k. So here I am.
This said your lesson about Cine D has been great. Thabk you. If my channel will get better it will be part because of you. Thank you!
Much appreciated, and best of luck for your new channel!
@@ShotByMyles thank you mate 🙏🙏🍀🍀🍀
I'm gonna give yours a try. I've never liked leeming's luts, and think they're a waste off money. Though another factor might be the skin of the individual and also foundation the women use, which in some cases makes skin look terrible!
Thanks for the in depth look at colour correction. I'm obsessed with colour accuracy. It would be great if you did a video on the HLG colour profile. Great work
Thanks Samuel, I don’t use HLG much myself but it might be something I explore!
A good tutorial, is helped me a lot. Back in the days when I made (analog) color slides I often used a greycard. Nice to see it still exists. I use FCP now, and since 3 years I use LumaFusion on iPad. There is colour corruption in that, and you can apply LUTs, but there no measuring tools like a Vectorscope and all that.
I've never tried LumaFusion but I can't help but feel iPad editing has a big future!
@@ShotByMyles It is getting more and more a very serious NLE editor. In fact all I miss right now are masks, and, as I mentioned before, the colour measuring tools. On our RV trips (we have a small RV, 5.5 meters) I only take my DJI OsmoPocket, the DJI Mavic Mini and a 9.7' iPad. I travel light! Take care!
@@JandeBloois1952 I just watched 'The Long Way Up' with Ewan McGregor on Apple TV, and I'm pretty sure they were using OsmoPockets a lot, so you know it's good!
Thanks for the free LUTs Myles! I appreciate it! 👊🏽👊🏽
Hope they work out for you, cheers!
Thanks for this tutorial and the free gift! I downloaded it to test it out on my old Panasonic G7.
Thanks Ian, hope it goes well! I suspect it’ll be the same result
great video, helping me develop my eye for colors.
Great to hear it thank you!
Outstanding video and great LUTs - very subtle but w/o a doubt an improvement. Thank you so much! Liked/subbed
Great to hear it, thanks a lot for the kind words!
You got it! After a lot of testing, Cine-D seems like the best bet for getting something usable straight out of camera that will also take a grade - and your LUT is excellent for that purpose!
Evil Genius Entertainment absolutely, I’ll use cine -d for creative projects where I cant use Log (slow motion work for example), although for corporate work I am leaning Natural these days which allows some grading but looks even better straight out of camera :)
Hope it serves you well!
Yeah, I looked long and hard at the Natural setting, which seems to be the other good-to look, but there's so much less dynamic range with natural....
Myles - do you mess with the highlight shadow setting at all? I can't quite decide between standard/no curve, or traditional S curve.....
Myles, nice work. Thanks so much for such a clear explanation. I think both your and Leeming's Cine D LUT work very well.
The wise advise you give that everyone should pay close attention to is getting correct exposure in-camera and making sure you are white balanced correctly before you apply the LUT. No matter how good a LUT may be it won't completely correct poor white balance.
When I'm shooting Cine D, in studio, I turn down contrast to -3, drop my saturation to -2 and I set the Hue to +1 to help get rid of the yellowish/green tint you mentioned....and, for me, at least, the +1 hue correction works well enough, so the reds are not pushed to the left of the skin tone line when I enter it into Final Cut.
And, of course, you've got to ETTR to some degree to have Leeming's LUT work with minimal correction--though an exposure correction after you apply the LUT is not that big a deal with the robustness of the GH5 codes.
Either way, Cine D can be a really great looking profile that will give you a lovely finished image--but you gotta get the sickly yellow/green out of the image. I'm sure your video here will help a lot of people who want to use Cine D but have no idea of how to deal with the funky colors. Again GOOD JOB.
...and the Panasonic GH5 entering 2020 Anno Domini: still up there with the best of them---still a killer good camera, far, far, far from being obsoleted.
Thanks for your comment William! I've never actually tried Hue +1 I don't think, so I might do that thanks for the tip!
Cine-D can be rewarding for that reason- you get a dull / sickly image out of camera but when you wrangle it in to something nice it's satisfying :)
Agreed on the GH5 being up there with the best! I'm sure we'll still be seeing stuff filmed with it in 5 years' time as it does so much so well.
@@ShotByMyles I think we're very much on the same page here. Regarding +1, moving the tint toward magenta and away from yellow/green; I got sick of the sickly look--and I think +1 is good enough to do most of job----as long as you white balance well..
Of course, there are many ways to skin particular cats with digital video---but, it seems to me that doing as much in-camera as possible is the best way to go.
Really, really helpful thanks for that! Will be checking out the next one also as I going to start using Natural for non-commercial/quicker workflow videos.
Thanks for your work! With this correction is my workflow much faster! Thanks for the gift!
Great to hear it, cheers :)
I do prefer this to the Leeming Lut, thanks again.
Great to hear it, thanks!
Very cool. Looking forward to giving these a try. Love my GH5 but the yellow cast/oversaturation drives me nuts.
Just bought my gh5 and noticed some issues with skintones in vlog and cinelike d... Thanks, this tutorial is what i am looking for! =)
No worries, glad to help!
Your lut is better than leeming because it works and it is free.
Thank you for all the help...
No worries, cheers!
Really apreciate your help man ! Thank you so much !
No problem, thanks for the great comment!
Thanks you
Thank you for making this video, it will help me to edit my gh5 footage. 🙏🙏
No problem,, glad to hear it’s of use!
My man! Thank you sir. I really like the GHAlex lut for Vlog, but I've a few issues with Vlogs performance in low light. Probably my settings, but this is still a great option to have
No worries, cheers Robert! Yes v-log isn't ideal for low light... I've heard good things about HLG but I find it annoying to work with and obviously you can only use HLG in 10-bit profiles. So I'd actually suggest you give cine-d a go for low light stuff!
All the best with it
Thank you for the free LUT 🙂
Hope it helps!
Thank you for this, most helpful.
Great voice Myles, great video. Keep up the good work my friend. Thank you for the free LUT! Though, I have no idea how to use it. :( I film with my GH5 using the Natural colour profile.
Thanks a lot, very gracious of you! This video is about the Cine-D LUT but I am also doing one for Natural.
I only think Natural really needs a correction when you use the settings White In Revery shared which adjusts the Hue to -1.
If you didn't change Hue and only reduced sharpness and contrast in the camera profile, then I really like natural with just a bit of saturation and maybe some contrast added in post.
My next video will make that clearer, and hopefully explains how to use it, but if not do ask :)
Thanks Myles, do you work as a colour grader?
No worries! I'm not a colourist no, I deal with all the aspects of producing video though so I still have to get involved with colour and it's one of my favourite bits :) that said the LUTs relied heavily on colour charts to stop me just going by eye!
I prefer the Leeming LUT One as well.
Los voy a probar. Gracias.
Thank you for the video and the LUTs!
Thank you, hope they work ok!
Thanks for developing these LUTs Myles, like many I use the Leeming LUT but very keen to give these a go. I know I should be using a white or grey card, given I'm mainly filming my family it just never happens. Might just have to get my kids some of those 18% grey t-shirts and call it a day.
Leeming LUT doco is quite prescriptive on exposure, think the recommendation for Cine-D is to set the zebra to 100%. Will it be similar for yours?
Haha middle grey t-shirts is a glorious idea!!
The last Leeming LUT I liked was version 502 as it didn't change exposure. If you've ever checked it out on a colour chart it seems to be a really small change in the skin tones and that's about it, I think it's even more subtle than this one!
I do use 100% zebras just so I know what parts of my image will be lost / pure white, but you could do the same thing with the waveform. This LUT should be quite forgiving with exposure in the sense that it doesn't make a huge shift that you then need to adjust for.
I tested it on shots which were exposed normally (middle grey card at 50% IRE) and also shots that were ETTR and I think it works well for both. The ETTR shots obviously have to have exposure pulled down in post, and in either case 2 things are certain: 1. underexposure is a killer if you are trying to raise exposure in post (bad colours and noise), and 2. whatever is overexposed above 100 in camera will be lost, which is why it's important to know what's clipping with the 100% zebra.
Anecdotally I find colour rendition and textures are starting to go funky before you hit 100% so I wouldn't want important skin tones at 90 for example. I ditch ETTR when I can and expose normally because I think it makes life easier in post, possibly at the expense of the last 5% in dynamic range that no one would notice :)
Brilliant! Thank you so much!
that are such a great lut´s thanks a lot mate!!
Love to hear that, thank you :)
Thank you!
Maaaaaaan! thanks so much. God bless
Thank u so much.Love it and i will share your video for sure:D
With panny and blackmagic cameras we always shoot to the left. We find that you get much nicer images that way.
I think that’s brave on the GH5 sensor, it’s very susceptible to noise! That’s not a recommendation you hear often but finding what works for you is most of the battle!
@@ShotByMyles We would never touch a GH5, but yea, on the GH4 and the bigger varicam boys, shooting to the left is the way to go. That's just how we do things in the industry.
@@dpc4548 GH4 has much worse noise than the GH5 I believe
I've also been watching videos, and reading posts that claim HLG is better than V-Log. It demands a lot of work in post, but if you have a LUT that converts it from Rec2020 to Rec709, then it's comparable to the other non-HDR profiles in regards to difficulty. Have you experimented with it?
great video! this has really helped me understand the order to do things in so thanks! I want to create that film look with the least amount of editing and i really do not want to go down the v-log route for several reasons, time, only working off a macbook, way too involved for a begginer etc. just got my gh5 and its my first proper camera, i'm gonna shoot cine D 4k 24fps, 60fps and some 180fps in 8 bit 100mbps as i only have the one memory card (64gb sandisk pro) and also don't think my laptop could handle 10 bit, does all of this sound right to u? also thanks for showing how this stuff is done on FCPX as most videos on here deal with premiere!
Thanks a lot!
That all sounds good to me!
I’d just say that 180fps sometimes doesn’t look the best because it has to compress each frame so much- 120P for me is a better balance between very slow and good quality.
I’d make sure your memory card is rated v30, and finally if you were in Europe / Australia I’d personally stick to PAL mode and 25 / 50 / 125 fps, otherwise the ones you said.
Good luck with it! You’ll need to experiment with colour grading beyond my LUT of course for the film look, and obviously so much comes down to the lighting / sound design / camera movement / scene / actors / story for film-like videos :)
Thank you so much!
Good day, I really enjoyed this video, I'm coming from using a traditional video camera and I recently bought the GH5 to step up my level of production, I'm interested in purchasing your course from Udemy to help fast track the learning curve of the GH5.. my only question is, is the course downloadedable or available offline as well? My internet connection is not the best and want to go through the course in a short space of time.
Hello! Yes the lectures are downloadable to watch offline, there’s a good Udemy app to watch them on iOS and presumably one for Android too :)
All the best with the GH5 either way!
Thanks, I just purchased your course, excited to dive in.
Jireh Productions Ltd cheers, hope you enjoy it!
Super helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
trying to use give you a thumbs up first
Thnks alot bro 😊
Thanks for the LUT, but I think with natural or standard profile you could reach better results with almost zero color correcting or grading. So, to me it's not really comprehensible why people like profiles like cinelike d or v tbh.
slightly more dynamic range from Cine-D :)
wonderful, thanks.
You should have more of a following, this is a value channel
Thanks a lot Matt!
thanks a lot!!!
Balance skin tones to the "skinline" on the vector scope.
That’s definitely a good start, my LUTs also subtly balance the saturation and luma of the other hues too I think
Would love to try it, but how do you expose clips like yours? ETTR? What zebra level on skin tone? Sorry for noob question
You can ETTR or go for a normal exposure, the LUT will work with both :) If you ETTR then you'll need to bring the exposure down in post as normal.
I expose normally when I have time by getting my middle grey card at about 50%, or without the card I look for caucasian skin tones to be around the 65% mark on the waveform.
All the best!
Could you share one of the earlier versions of the Leeming LUT. I don't really like the newer version, or perhaps demands too much from me and my amateur skills. I'm a new GH5 user and also a beginner in regards to colour correction and grading. Thanks in advance.
I’m afraid I can’t do that- it’s a paid LUT so I couldn’t distribute it. Mine’s better anyway ;)
@@ShotByMyles I'll try it and get back to you. Thanks anyway :)
hi, what is this software you are using to calibrate?
Myles, does your Udemy GH5 course discusses the Auto Focus post the 2.4 firmware upgrade? (if it even makes any difference, training wize...). Thanks, Edo
Hi Edo, the course examples are done from v2.3, and on all honesty where I land in the course is still my recommendation on the latest firmware.
Hope that helps!
Great content.
How does color accuracy (compared to real life) of simply doing natural with minimal or zero post compare to applying lut over cinelike-d? I've always shot natural and have been pretty satisfied with it in terms of accuracy. Will going through your process actually gain me anything in that department (outside of DR)
That's a good question, and honestly I haven't tested. This LUT is based on colour chart colours so I wouldn't claim 100% accuracy for everything. Compare that to Panasonic who have WAY more resources when it comes to creating their colour profiles, you'd think they should beat me in terms of colour accuracy :) Given you're already happy with Natural I wouldn't really recommend complicating your workflow for accuracy alone.
Hi Myles, do you use these LUTs in 8 bits or 10 bits? I am trying to use them in a Lumix G85. Do you know someone who used them in a G85?
Both! I’m sure the G85 colour science is similar and I think someone said they used em, but I honestly couldn’t swear to it!
this is better than leeming lut thanks
Very generous of you, cheers!
But what levels to set? 0-255 or 16-255 ?. I have Lumix g7. I want to shoot in cinelike d. but 0-255 are too dark shadows
I use 0-255 for 8 bit profiles, but if it’s not working for you by all means try 16-255
Mate can we use this on HLG ?
This one was designed to correct Cine-d so I wouldn’t recommend it!
It’s not as necessary for HLG I don’t think
hi, does this work ok with 8 bits? i have a lumix g85
Hi, yes it does work with 8 bit! I've never tried on the G85 but I would imagine it should work quite well, worth testing out :)
So, does the luts doing great on G85, Ramos?
@@schoollausdaleru6455 yeah, it works fine
I've activated my account but when I click on the download buttons for the GH5 LUTs nothing happens.
Hi, can you try through a different browser?
This will work on gh5s with same settings on? Thanks for video and your hard work 👍
Yes I think so! Colour science differs very slightly but from memory the Cine-D issues are similar. Worth a try, it’s free :)
@@ShotByMyles i will try it ! Thank you for your reply, what is your recomendation for middle tones? Just under 70? Im struggle with cine-d, im currently shot on natural with everything on 0 😐
@@mgvideouk thanks! Mid tones should be lower than that I think, I’d want the key-lit side of a Caucasian face to be around 70… there’s nothing wrong with Natural though, most jobs and clients won’t need flatter footage, they won’t know or care! Some of my favourite footage is Natural out of camera. Check out my video called ‘colour grading in camera’ or something…
@@ShotByMyles thanks a lot, you are one of the best pal in yt !
Just out of interest, can I put those free Luts on my NinjaV? To see how the CineD etc will look once corrected in post?
As long as it takes cube files, I don’t see why not!
Shot by Myles brill, yes it takes .cube files.
Will this work with the GH4 Cine-D?
I’ve never tried it but I’d imagine so! It’s free if you want to try :)
Hi Myles. What do you think about shooting in Cine-D in 8-bit and applying your LUTs later on? Is 8-bit good enough for it? What about settings of Contrast etc? I mean values. And is Zebra 100% fine? Thank you in advance for your answer. I use Lumix GX9.
8 bit and Cine-D is fine, obviously more flexibility with 10 bit but if you make sure your white balance and exposure is good in camera while shooting you’ll be fine I think.
Settings values I think I give them in this video for the LUT 👍🏻
I’d go 95 zebra to judge your overexposure, good luck!
@@ShotByMyles Thank you for the answer. At 5.28 there are the parameters. Do you think Cine-D ensures much more DR than Natural profile? I wonder if skin can be graded very well vs Natural profile. Ok, Zebra 95%. How do you assess you LUT vs Leeming's one?
@@aleksanderkozak5204 not much more DR from cine-d, but if you’re pushing your grades then there is some IMO, but it’s still going to be noisy if you’re trying to dig detail out of the shadows.
Honestly I really liked using Natural and any minor reduction in DR would probably never be noticed by a real world client.
Natural is a better starting point for skin tbh, but cine-d is good if you’re comfortable grading, especially for a more ‘cinematic’ look.
I personally didn’t love the Leeming LUT I had but then he did revise them and built it out in to things like luma corrections. At that point I was using my own or grading from scratch or trying GH Alex!
@@ShotByMyles Thank you for the information. Is it possible to apply the LUTs in DaVinci Resolve?
@@aleksanderkozak5204 absolutely!
Your cinelike d is non adjusted all value are on default?
The LUT was made for settings given in the video at 5:28 👍🏻
God. Send.
Hi! The link is not working :(. Nice video!
thanks and thank you for letting me know! The website should work now (you might need to delete cache or use a different browser!)
Hi, thanks for the info. I went to your web landing page as suggested and signed up, then got a message to check my email for confirmation step. 3 hours later, still no email? Isn’t that supposed to slingshot out straight away after I click the sign up button?
Hi Reginald, yes it should’ve been very fast- did you check your junk / spam folder? Otherwise is there any chance you input the incorrect address?
When I tested it I got the response within a couple of minutes. Sorry to hear you’re having issues!
Shot by Myles I used auto-fill so not much chance of wrong address. I’ll check to see if it got put in a spam folder or something. Doesn’t usually happen though as I don’t use filters.
Reginald Worthington I’ve re-generated the email for you in case, let me know how you get on!
I can see it has worked for other people and retested myself and got an almost instant email, so it’s a strange one if it’s not in your spam!
Shot by Myles hi, no I’ve checked both mobile devices and laptop to see if it landed there and no email. Any other options for confirming that?
luts arent available for free now
it's working out free for me with the code!
are those graphs available for premiere pro too?
If you mean the exposure waveform and the vectorscope then yes they are! I don’t remember exactly how to bring them up though I’m afraid
Very helpful video, thank you! I have one main problem which is driving me crazy... As soon as I'm shooting indoors, I get a lot of noise in the midtones. (GH5+Sigma18-35 no speedbooster ISO 200-800, Cine-D, Natural, Cine-V,...) I asked many people but nobody could help me. Do you have any idea what could be wrong? Thank you in advance!
Assuming there’s nothing wrong with your camera, noise is normally due to under-exposure or high ISO.
At 800 you should be fine in the midtones if they’re exposed alright. How do you check exposure? I don’t de-noise at all at those ISOs although it’s never 100% clean either. Contrast and compression of the video by TH-cam helps hide noise.
Also remember if shooting v-Log that there’s barely any noise reduction done in-camera, so you’d have to do that in post.
@@ShotByMyles Thanks for the quick response. I check exposure with the histogram (in low light it's more to the left, rather than spread out) I am only shooting in cine d and the NR is at +5
NiceTry Productions if it’s low light you have to expect noise I’m afraid! When not shooting low light I still might see it in the shadows but it shouldn’t be distracting in the mids too much.
Sometimes an aggressive grade can also cause noise, but otherwise while you’re in Cine-D I’d expect an improvement when you add contrast and acceptable levels from your well exposed non-low light footage!
@@ShotByMyles Shot by Myles Alright, thank you so much for the help. I will keep on testing. I've also enlisted to your Udemy course ;) May I contact you again, if I'm on the verge of a mental breakdown because I can't figure it out? xD
NiceTry Productions thanks a lot! Yes if something’s not clear by all means reach out through Udemy :)
Liked and suscribed, mate. =)
Justo Alejandro Gonzalez thanks a lot!
What is the best ISO for Cinelike D?? and what is the max ISO in low light situation?
I’d say the best ISO is the one that gives you the correct exposure :) but in reality it’ll be 200 (if your exposure is good) as that’s about the best noise and dynamic range performance for the GH5.
If you can de-noise in post then I’d be ok up to 3200 at a real push, but otherwise I’d want to keep below 2,000 and ideally 200-800
Shot by Myles Thank you for quick response!
Does the Cine-D Correction LUT work with V-Log footage too?
No it doesn’t but if you scan my videos I also gave away a v-log LUT :)
@@ShotByMyles Okay, thanks :-) But as far as I can see it´s an complete color transform LUT from V-Log to Rec.709 and not an correction LUT only, right?
burn4ever no worries, you’re right yes but the cine-d LUT I give away here is designed for cine-d’s colour which I think is different to v-log, and also with it being based off specific cine-d settings it’d take more work to get it right on v-log than it’s worth to be honest!
"having people that look like people" the filmmakers problem since 1889
😆 it's definitely my problem!
changes HIGHLIGHT and SHADOW ❓❓❓❓
They weren’t changed here at all, all left as default :)
Seriously...I think people can spend hours, days, months or years trying to get a certain 'LOOK' when 99.9% of the people watching this video would have no problem with how your first examples of what you called 'sickly looking' looked.
And often we talk about color grading as a 'creative' process where what one person may think is the perfect creative look, the next person will think it looks horrible.
I purchased the V-Log L from Panasonic not to have more creative freedom with the colors but for the increased dynamic range.
I often find myself in situations where I am not able to control the light such as a large open window with bright sunlight coming in casting 'hot spots' on the floor and other areas of the room and then deep shadows in the same room near my subject.
Sure...I use lights to illuminate my subject but those hotspots created by the sunlight shooting in through the large windows are still very bright in comparison.
That is why I will shoot in V-LogL in those situations. Not to spend countless hours tweaking the colors which if you let it...can drive you insane.
Absolutely, if we're talking about the casual viewer and average consumer of video content, there's a good chance they have no idea about the skin tones and wouldn't claim to care. I'd wager that would similarly apply to the hotspots you're controlling with log! I've never had a client comment on the dynamic range of a single shot of mine that wasn't done in Log.
We are told over and over how skin tones are essential because as humans we're sensitive to skin colour even if it's subliminal. That's why I think this correction was worth it, especially for free as I'm offering it here at the moment given Mr Leeming's paid LUTs just corrected the skin tones too for a good length of time.
And I do consider this a correction- I totally agree if you grade a 'look' you may end up skewing skin tones, but I'd still argue that should be done from a neutral starting point. You can see the skin tones on the vector scope so that's also why I'd personally call this a correction rather than a creative application.
Thanks for commenting and adding to the debate!
@@ShotByMyles Yeah...good point. I shoot video for internet content and not the latest 4K HDR TVs or for the 'big screen'.
I've been a pretty much eye-balling things using zebras for exposure and custom color temp settings I can adjust with the GH5 right before I start recording.
But now that I'm starting to play around with VLogL...I can't use those 'shortcuts' anymore and need to learn to read the various scopes correctly to make sure I'm getting good exposure and color during recording.
I may eventually want to start shooting video for content other than just web video so that is why I'm just now learning how to work with VLogL, using a Atomos Ninja V recorder, scopes, etc.
Drew Hanson agreed, v-log is a bit tougher to shoot, I’d much rather the waveform behaved the same as it does with the other profiles!
You should still be able to use zebras at 80% to show what’s clipped but yes otherwise it’s a bit trickier and I miss the ‘what you see is what you get’ :)
I’ve heard nothing but good things from Atomos users, I’m jealous!
is this work on G85?
Probably yes… it’s free if you want to try it!
@@ShotByMyles I downloaded your free luts and I took your Udemy tutorial...my question is, in a gray card that you shoot for post production using a final cut, what is your WB setting in camera? auto?, custom? etc...
@@marlonfernandezmariano427 I don’t shoot auto WB for video because the camera can shift WB mid-clip which is difficult to correct :)
I prefer to set white balance in camera with a white card or grey card, or if I don’t have time I will set a WB Kelvin setting in camera judging by eye.
If it’s close in camera then correction is easier later. Good luck!
Thank you for this!
Cheers!
Thank you!!!
Cheers :)