Great video! You should do course teaching more advanced suspension geometry, kinematics, shocks and how different setups work. I would buy that and I think others would too
These are such good videos. I grew up in a car family and have been lightly modifying my cars and never really understood or have these explained. I built one heavily modified car and just about died in it because it would go really fast in a straight line but on the expressway it was dangerous. Thanks for all the tips. ✌️
Now I know why my drift rc wheels center back a bit when it’s off and I am turning them manually. It also have the lifting effect. I guess its kind of a good thing since there is zero traction with the track/tire combo we use.
Hey I know there’s lots of other great ideas to discuss next, but would you consider talking about steering rack placement re: over centering and steering bind in relation to the tie rod pickup point on the knuckle? I’ve been fighting this for a year with my angle kit and need to learn how to correct steering bind going toward full lock bidirectionally.
Didn’t say it was too much, just said the effects of caster are more dramatic on a McPherson strut so generally run a different value vs double wishbone
I got a question, as you mentioned in rain day high caster setting can increase tractions because the weight jacking if the tire without grip, but the traction not all about grip?
In drifting the lead wheel is where all of our steering is coming from which is the inside tire (opposite to racing) so for drifting it’s positive gain on the critical tire, for racing it’s negative for the critical tire
He talks about it at the end when he mentions rotating the knuckles. “Kingpin” as a term in alignments isn’t really relevant anymore as cars no longer have a kingpin.
Could you explain how can the caster and kingpin effect on the grip for the front and the rear. And could you talk about 4 way adjustable damper for the front and the rear and their relation with the spring stiffness I know it might take a time but literally no one talked about them
1. KPA is related to caster but also locates the scrub radius, etc. Really need to read a book to explain this properly. Usually KPA is fixed and caster is adjustable is short answer, and the long answer is pages and pages of physics and geomerty. Suspension is such a complex topic people devite their lives to just one aspect of it (geometery, shock valving, bushing design) for one purpose (racing, agressive street driving, drifting, high and low speed offroad, luxury ride, and towing to name a few). 2. Dampers should be matched to the springs. High rate/lowering springs need more damping and will blow oem shocks. Pick your spring rates, and then get your shocks valved to the springs. A non-adjustable damper works as well as an adjustable one if valved correctly and last longer if daily driving. I'd suggest some yellow bils if keeping under $3k on shocks. The value brand adjustable crap goes straight in the bin. Avoid twin-tube designs, they are commuter shitboxes. Be aware the spring rates depend on the geometry of the suspension, and you NEED to do the measurements and math before messing with anything, or risk having to swap springs a bunch to tune it. Check out QA1 for usa-made springs for a decent price. Nobody talks about these because they are deep and wide subjects appreciated by a small (but amazing) group of nerds. Welcome to the club. Some reading is in your future!
@@nobodynoone2500 first thanks for your answer What’s the name of these books and are they talking about drift specifically? And where can I find the guide lines for measuring the spring rate
maybe its time to talk about Antirollbars in drift ?
Put them in the bin. Fix your roll centre and spring rate
@@janeblogs324so why do all pro cars have sway bars then? They’re a useful tool for dialing grip
@@DallasStewartMusic do they tho?
Great video! You should do course teaching more advanced suspension geometry, kinematics, shocks and how different setups work. I would buy that and I think others would too
Some demonstrations of turning the steering wheel on cars with different castor values would be helpful, if animations aren't feasible
Anti squat next!! I repeat anti squat next! Thank you 😊
Short, Simple, effective and easy to understand - good job :)
Thank you!
Best caster trail explanation I ever seen 👏
These are such good videos. I grew up in a car family and have been lightly modifying my cars and never really understood or have these explained. I built one heavily modified car and just about died in it because it would go really fast in a straight line but on the expressway it was dangerous.
Thanks for all the tips. ✌️
Man I look forward to getting the tip all week long
I prefer a 2-hour tutorial for alignment on a drift car. I can be longer, too
Now I know why my drift rc wheels center back a bit when it’s off and I am turning them manually. It also have the lifting effect. I guess its kind of a good thing since there is zero traction with the track/tire combo we use.
Hey I know there’s lots of other great ideas to discuss next, but would you consider talking about steering rack placement re: over centering and steering bind in relation to the tie rod pickup point on the knuckle?
I’ve been fighting this for a year with my angle kit and need to learn how to correct steering bind going toward full lock bidirectionally.
Can You explain in comments why 8deg is too much on mcphearson strut? I ran 8 deg on my 240sx street car and I loved it.
Didn’t say it was too much, just said the effects of caster are more dramatic on a McPherson strut so generally run a different value vs double wishbone
@@FDFraceshop why/how is it different on a McPherson strut?
I got a question, as you mentioned in rain day high caster setting can increase tractions because the weight jacking if the tire without grip, but the traction not all about grip?
Foot work pov gotta happen might be a longer body of work but would be well worth it to tie some of the jatt pieces in. Good work fellas 💯
Just for clarification, rear caster only applies to independent rears, not solid axle…..as much if any.
Caster creates negative camber with steering angle, not positive camber as stated.
In drifting the lead wheel is where all of our steering is coming from which is the inside tire (opposite to racing) so for drifting it’s positive gain on the critical tire, for racing it’s negative for the critical tire
@@FDFraceshopoh, so when describing the static setup do you call, what's normally referred to as negative camber, positive camber?
would love to see pics/illustrations during these. itll be easier to understand. i just need pictures
Can you address kingpin angle with caster and how less or more kpi is better or worse in drifting. Thanks 🤙🏼💯
He talks about it at the end when he mentions rotating the knuckles. “Kingpin” as a term in alignments isn’t really relevant anymore as cars no longer have a kingpin.
Could you explain how can the caster and kingpin effect on the grip for the front and the rear.
And could you talk about 4 way adjustable damper for the front and the rear and their relation with the spring stiffness
I know it might take a time but literally no one talked about them
1. KPA is related to caster but also locates the scrub radius, etc. Really need to read a book to explain this properly. Usually KPA is fixed and caster is adjustable is short answer, and the long answer is pages and pages of physics and geomerty. Suspension is such a complex topic people devite their lives to just one aspect of it (geometery, shock valving, bushing design) for one purpose (racing, agressive street driving, drifting, high and low speed offroad, luxury ride, and towing to name a few).
2. Dampers should be matched to the springs. High rate/lowering springs need more damping and will blow oem shocks. Pick your spring rates, and then get your shocks valved to the springs. A non-adjustable damper works as well as an adjustable one if valved correctly and last longer if daily driving. I'd suggest some yellow bils if keeping under $3k on shocks. The value brand adjustable crap goes straight in the bin. Avoid twin-tube designs, they are commuter shitboxes. Be aware the spring rates depend on the geometry of the suspension, and you NEED to do the measurements and math before messing with anything, or risk having to swap springs a bunch to tune it. Check out QA1 for usa-made springs for a decent price.
Nobody talks about these because they are deep and wide subjects appreciated by a small (but amazing) group of nerds. Welcome to the club. Some reading is in your future!
@@nobodynoone2500 first thanks for your answer
What’s the name of these books and are they talking about drift specifically? And where can I find the guide lines for measuring the spring rate
I would love to hear more about rear knuckle rotation