In-Depth Review of the 1987 John Deere 316 (R.I.P)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Update: This tractor caught fire and burned up on 4/4/16 due to an electrical short. I ended up parting it out, but I wish I could have saved it. I have yet to find another 300 series tractor as nice as this one was. R.I.P.!
My internship job has finished up so now I have more time to make videos. Here's another look at the 316, a thorough overview of the whole tractor, and the things I have done to it since I purchased it. Right after this video I made an update on the 210 and started to make a video of my new truck but the video got cut off. Check out that video too.
I just joined the family of Deere owners earlier this year. I bought an '89 260. I love it. It mows great. It has the 14hp Kawasaki instead of the 17hp Kawasaki that was the factory engine. Previous owner said the 17hp was getting weak, so he put the 14hp on it. The 14hp only had 90 hours on it when he put it in the tractor. The rest of the 260 only has 317 hours. I'm hooked now. I'm going to eventually, as money allows, build me a fleet of these older Deeres. Love your videos. New subscriber.
Thanks for the sub! Welcome to the hobby....or should I say, the addiction. lol.
@@MichaelTJD60 Thanks. Yeah, I can already see myself in a John Deere owners anonymous group.
Sorry for your loss. I know you were heartbroken. That was one sweet tractor.
Thank you, it really did hurt to lose such a nice tractor, but it led to us buying a brand new one to replace it and has also allowed me to own about 10 more of those 300 series tractors in recent years.
I love my 1987 316. I put a 3 point on it for plow and disc harrow for breaking my garden and the scraper blade for keeping water flowing toward the river in the ditches. I have the engine out because the previous owner over torqued the starter and the mount holes finally broke off.
Mine only has 800 hours so I bought a bg43 oil pan and I am putting the old style starter with separate solenoid.
I am ready to put the oil filter and oil in to give it a try but it was needing a carburetor cleaning when I pulled it out in 2018. I am hoping that it will start so I can see if a cleaning will be enough or if I will need to attempt a rebuild while it is out.
I have the 1986 330
As well. 554 hours and I use it for mowing.
It’s a shame that your beautiful machine caught fire.
It looked garage kept it entire life.
One of these days I'll be putting a 3-point on my 318. I also plan to do the B43 oil pan and starter swap...I have all the parts, just need to find time to do it. This 316 was actually very nicely restored before I bought it and I'm still bitter over losing this tractor, but I've been fortunate enough to own two more 316's and four 318's after it.
Hey sorry it burned up! Give ya a little tip NEVER EVER USE Wire nuts on a Tractor! They will always vibrate loose!
That was the one and only time I ever used a wire nut. Now I solder the connections and secure then with heat shrink. Seeing wire nuts used on any type of automotive application makes me cringe now. Lol
Bought one few months back for 300$ decent mower for that price had wiring problems bad when I got it a lot of people I see have wiring problems with these tractors none of my safety switches worked lol finally got mine straightened out kinda lol it still dies for some reason from time to time good usable machines though lots of power I’m not used to coming from a 314 lol mine is also a 87 but not in terrible shape but is kinda raggedy but 316 for 300 bucks I mean can’t pass it up thanks for sharing nice tractor I like it
Great deal for $300. Wish I could find one that cheap.
The 318s were definitely better and more outfitted than the 316. And those were very important when using it as a true tractor. However, if your only cutting grass or running one implement at a time that only needs one spool like a blower than they are fine. Plus you can easily add dual brakes. The power steering is not needed unless your running heavy front implements on dry ground or a loader. The 316 manual steering is far superior than any other manual steering JD garden tractors before it.
Great machine regardless.
I agree that the manual steering on the 316 is superior. It's basically an automotive gearbox. I wish they would use that system on some of the newer garden tractors like the X500 series instead of rack and pinion steering. It's hard to go back to manual steering when you've had power steering (had five 318's myself), but I've had three 316 Onan's and a 330, and have always been fine without it - even with a blade up front. Definitely wish they had dual brakes though. I was getting ready to swap this one over to dual brakes before it burned up. My 330 was converted over to dual brakes - excellent for traction on hills, and for mowing around trees.
I swear these old JD's sound quieter than half of the ride on mowers made today
The Onan engine is fairly quiet as it is insulated and shielded by side panels. Plus it has a decent sized muffler. The mower decks on these old machines turn at a fairly slow speed compared to the modern machines, so they are a bit quieter. My X570 with the high airflow 48" deck is super loud.
I like that sleeve hitch on the 210. .. Is there any advantage to puting a full 3 point hitch on it over the simple sleeve concept?
The 3-point hitch distributes the force of the implement evenly across the rear axles AND the centerline of the tractor (requiring less "pull" from the tractor). It's a tried and true design that has been in use for 90+ years and it allows the tractor to use larger or heavier implements without much strain. But when these garden tractors were being produced 40+ years ago, a lot of people just weren't willing to spend the money on a full 3-point hitch setup for their tractors as they were somewhat complex and expensive...the older JD hydro's (140, 300, 317 etc), required a rear SCV kit to operate the lift cylinder for the 3-point hitch, so that got to be expensive (and the attachments are fairly expensive too). For that reason, sleeve hitch attachments became popular on a lot of makes and models, since sleeve hitches are cheaper to make, easier to install, and the attachments are also cheaper and easier to find.
1990john deere318 - the air gap should be .018". You can use a feeler gauge to check the gap, but all I did was take a 9/16 wrench and turn each of the 3 lock nuts 1/4 turn clockwise and that fixed it.
+MichaelTJD60 Thank you, I will have to check it.
+MichaelTJD60 l like that bad ass 316
Thanks.
yep
Awesome video, runs great!
my dad has one thought about buying it from him as a project tractor
So how do you set the deck height on one of these? Like how do you get it to the same height every time by just moving the hydraulic lever?
There is a threaded adjustment rod on the back of the tractor going through the rockshaft. You have to lower the deck to your desired height, then turn the threaded rod in until it bottoms out on the rockshaft. That will prevent the rockshaft from traveling any further.
MichaelTJD60 thanks for the explanation!
Hey Mike... Any chance when you fab the diamond plate foot plates for your 210 you could create a template set for the rest of us...? (If I had a template to work from, I could develop an Autocad drawing for everyone.) Frank in KC
I actually made a very crude set of diamond treads for it and got rid of them about 3 years ago. I just decided to go back to the original foot grips. I think someone on the Weekend Freedom Machines forum posted a template to make your own foot rests a couple years ago.
Love my 316
This 316 sounds great. I shouldn't change those tires. They are a pain to to replace it. Even I did to my snapper once (still gone) the tire had a hole which is from a brick in the shed that cause it. Even at my job. We can't install lawn tractor tires. It sucks.
NJRAILFAN & RACEFAN88 It can be annoying, that's why I have so many extra sets. One set of rims for the turfs, one set for the lugs, and one set for the HDAP tires.
Changing tires are a jiff to change when you have the proper equipment
Where do you buy The original details
Decals? You should still be able to get them through Deere, just make sure you get decals for a later 316 Onan and not the earlier 316 Kohler.
hey so far great video mike, cant watch the whole thing now, will later. I do know of a ford 1110 for sale locally, 1700. if youre interested. cant wait to watch the truck vid next. ill get up a video of the new 332 soon.
+Scienceburritto Thanks Tim. It will be cool to see a vid of your 332's. Hopefully I can make a video of my truck soon.
I am interested in the Ford!
@@Sheyi_Voltron1 long gone my friend
I just bought a 150th anniversary 316 I think it's a 1987 brought it home and put a new battery Deka 26 r it fired up ran fine for about 10 min . the battery light came on and a min or two later it died and won't turn over. the battery checks out fine checked battery cables
won't even click or turn over.???
Do the dash lights come on when you turn the key on?
hey I found 2 in line fuses that came under plugged .... at the key switch
must have vibrated loose.
That would definitely cause a problem. I think one is a 25 amp and the other is a 2 amp.
Love your vids on the JD 316 its been super informative with helping me decide on what to buy. I was hoping you could help me out with a question. I'm torn between getting a 316 with the 16hp onan or bumping up to the 318. I was wondering what you thought might be best for my 1.5 acre mini farm? the biggest issue is the steep hill on the back side of the property. not sure if the 316 will haul my 240 lbs up the hill....
+Eamonn McGonigal Thanks for the sub! Any of these old garden tractors will haul uphill with out a problem. My 316 can climb hills with ease, both in forward and reverse, with turf tires. The old shaft-driven transmissions have proven themselves as indestructible. No matter what you get, you will need extra weights for it because it will help you grab traction and keep from rolling over.
+Eamonn McGonigal As for 316 vs. 318, it's really a matter of what attachments you're going to need and what you're working with. I'm happy with my 316 because I only need single (H1) hydraulics for my snow plow and mower deck. I can also live without power steering since I don't have a snow blower or a loader on the front. But if you have a lot of trees and tight spaces to mow around, or you plan to run a snowblower or loader or something heavy on the front, get the 318 or 322. They both have power steering. 322 has a liquid cooled Yanmar gas motor which some say is more reliable than the air-cooled Onan. All the tractors I mentioned can run a 3-pt hitch, rear PTO, and all kinds of attachments.
Great thanks. my issue is I've got a small orchard at the top of my lot so i'll need something that can turn around the trees. also wanted to put a plow on the front for snow and possibly get a bucket attachment. realistically though since all those attachments cost a pretty penny I don't know if i'll actually end up getting them. for now I need something that can mow, turn around tight trees and help me drag things around my property. also till or drag a plow. I don't want to shut myself off to future options though
+Eamonn McGonigal The turning brakes on the 318 will help with the sharp turns. They also provide "posi-traction" if you get stuck because you can press on the brake of the wheel that is spinning and it will transfer the power to the other wheel to help get you unstuck. Also, the power steering will be handy for the turns. You can get a model 54 two-way (hydraulic up and down) or 4-way (hydraulic up, down, left, right) snow blade depending on whether the tractor has H1 hydraulics (316) or H2 (318 and up). A 3-point hitch will be needed to pull a plow or other garden attachment. Just to give you an idea I bought a 2-way hydraulic blade for this tractor for $350. A 3-point hitch will run you about $450, give or take. There are a lot of aftermarket companies that build them.
I’d like a John Deere tractor there was a steal of a deal on a 330 for 750 bucks with a cab and snowplow didn’t run but that’s not a big deal but there’s a 316 with a snowblower and mower deck for 400 bucks probably needs a rebuild because it’s a little low on compression in right cylinder
Sounds like it would be a good project. The Onan engines are pretty easy to work on and will last a long time if rebuilt correctly.
The two I would love to own is a 455 or the 322 as a close second.
My list:
The Kings: 140,318,455 and the 345
The ugliest: 430
The last decent lawn tractor: LT series
Rarest:Patio colors, round fenders and the 355D
Any to add?
crazyjdkid The round fender 110 was also a king. And probably the X748 instead of the 345. I don't consider the 430 ugly, just very large...lol. The LT and late LX series were made at the same time so you could consider both of them. Rarest tractors are the 1963 110, 1966 112 round fender, 120, Patio 120, 208, 312, 316 Kohler, 330, and the 285 with EFI. And yes, the 335D and GX355.
MichaelTJD60 Oh forgot about the x748! I threw the 345 out there as many say it is one of those tractors that was great all the way around. I have one and it sits in the shop more than its out working. I like the hood vents on the 285!
+crazyjdkid The 345's were really good tractors aside from the plastic cam and leaking fuel pump issues. Good strong lawn tractor with garden tractor capabilities and features for a decent price. Hydro lift power steering, and liquid cooled.
Too bad they were caught in the era of the cracking hoods. My hood is gone on mine, vibrated itself to pieces!
+crazyjdkid Sounds like a typical John Deere lol. They really didn't think it through when they started out with plastic. If you find any late 80's, 90's, or early 2000's Deere's without a broken hood, you hit the jackpot.
I'm thinking about buying a 316 Your video is very helpful what to look for When I go to see it! I no very little about them, The one I'm going to look at looks good they say it's got a Briggs&Stratton Motor I wonder what year did they come out with this and what do you think about the Briggs&Stratton? I can get it for around 700 or 800 They say it's in very good condition?
316's are great tractors but they did not come from the factory with a Briggs & Stratton engine which means someone repowered it. The later style 316's like the one in this video were made from 1984-1992. $700 doesn't seem too bad of a price but I would run it a good 20 minutes and make sure the engine sounds good and runs strong with no smoke or leaks. Check the transmission to make sure it has no slop or wear, make sure the hydraulics work properly without any leaks.
Thanks for your help I really appreciate it! I think I'll wait and try to get one with original motor, thanks again!
No problem, glad to help.
What is the gap for the pto. I think mines to tight?
Hi Michael I'm looking into bye a 316 iam learning slot from your videos thanks this one iam getting the guy said he thought it was a 79 well later he found out it could be a 80 well I don't know about that after watching your videos this one has four hydrostatic hoses on the front for the plow left and right turn and tilt left and right and it has a 3point on the back this has a 16hp Kohler motor now the side covers on each side of the engine are open in the front but the exhaust comes out on the left side and up with a muffler like a tractor now behind the muffler up by the steering wheel is two handles and a hydraulic diverter valve that controls the hydraulics I haven't sean the vin tag yet .any information you would have I would appreciate it tks.Dave
All and the tractor runs awesome every thing seams to work good
Sounds like it is the earlier model 316 which was made in 1978 only, and was just a renumbered model 300. I had one of those as well. Good tractors as long as the rubber engine mount isolators are in good shape. If it has the factory diverter valve that's a pretty valuable and somewhat hard to find option.
Looks like a show piece, very nice.
Thanks, it was a real nice tractor before it burned up in a fire.
Oh no, I guess I didn't put 2 and 2 together. I didn't realize that was the one that burnt up. That sucks bro, I'm sorry.
That's ok, at least I have plenty of videos of it.
Well when you get around to repainting it, let me know. I used to paint commercial aircraft so I may know some tricks you can use.
I didn't save any of the sheet metal. Bought a second 316 and swapped parts over to it.
I can see what you mean about this tractor and missing it. Maybe one day you'll find another one.
That's the plan. I had a second 316 after this one but it wasn't anywhere near as nice as this one. I plan to find a good 318 one day. Thanks for the sub too.
I own a 212 and a 316.. need to figure out how to aid the air flow for these air cooled engines (k301 and a p218)
Run the correct oil in them and keep the cooling fins free of grass and debris. Also may want to consider replacing the firewall foam insulation on the 316 if it is no longer intact. And make sure the side panels and belly screen are in place at all times.
Where is your favourite tractor I am restoring my L112 tractor after I’m done restoring my tractor I’m going to be buying another one but I don’t know what to buy I think a 316 in very good tractor
318's are my favorite, but the 316 Onan's are good tractors if you're looking to get into the bigger models. I wish I still had the one in this video...they are a little more affordable than the 318's.
MichaelTJD60 where do you get the stickers i'm trying to find them but I cannot find the one for my tractor
Deere can get you most of the decals...which ones do you need?
MichaelTJD60 The safety ones and how to operate the machine
Check with your Deere dealer
That sucks about the scratch... I might have put a couple of decent scratches in the hood of my LT1000 like that with my survivors as well.
+Lucien Dube It's got a lot more scratches now. As much as I hate to ruin the paint job, these things are built to work, not just sit and look pretty.
+MichaelTJD60 true
+MichaelTJD60 It still bothers me to ruin something that was professionally restored like that... Especially something you paid a lot of money for and someone worked really worked hard on. Happy St. Patrick's day to you!
+MichaelTJD60 I don't really care to much about the cosmetic shape just as long as the machine runs good!
I lucked out with my 316 it has the four hydraulic connectors on the front the two levers on the left and the dual brake pedals power is the 16 horse Kohler
+taz Man The early 316 from 1978. Same exact tractor as a 300. Totally different animal from this Onan 316 but still just as tough!
yeah I also have the 314 with the 14 horse and a 300 for spare parts
Sounds like a nice fleet of machines.
I'm getting an ohm meter to test. can these be switched over to electronic ignition
Yours is an '87 model so it should have the Onan P218G engine with electronic ignition
Does the snow plow have down pressure?
Yes.
I appreciate your knowledge of the 316. I’ve had a 1987 one given to me. It’s hard to find someone to help me with my questions. I have a snow blower attachment and a 50” mower deck. Do you have a video explaining mower deck height adjustment? I’d like to know if the deck is supposed to roll along the ground on its wheels. Thanks.
Unfortunately I don't have a video explaining that, but I can tell you the deck should not be sitting on the gauge wheels. Those wheels are only there to keep the deck from bottoming out and scalping the grass if you hit a bump. The gauge wheels should sit 1/4" to 3/8" off the ground and should only roll when the deck bottoms out. You can adjust how far the mower deck drops by turning the threaded rod on the back of the tractor. Once you have the depth set, park the tractor on a level floor or driveway and lower the deck to that height setting, and set the gauge wheels accordingly.
MichaelTJD60 ok that helps. Thanks so much. I do have another question with regards to the mule drive and belt tension. For the first 2 summers when I engaged the PTO it dragged on the engine to get started and the deck was loud. I’ve replaced every bearing and pulley on the deck.This year not so much. My tension indicator on the mule drive isn’t working but the tension certainly adjusts. I guess I have 2 questions. First is the vibration related to the tension? Second do you know of a video for getting the tension indicator to work properly? I can not figure it out.
@@scottg674 Is the vibration coming from the PTO belt or the deck itself? If the belt is vibrating, it's too loose. The belt shouldn't be too tight but shouldn't be too loose either....just tight enough that it won't flop around when the PTO is engaged. You'll want to adjust the belt tension with the deck raised all the way up, and the tension indicator should be in between "initial belt tension" and "retension"...it really depends on how worn the belt is. If the deck itself is vibrating, the blades might not be balanced. If they aren't sitting perfectly flat on the spindle boss when you install them, they will wobble and cause a lot of vibration.
MichaelTJD60 It hasn’t vibrated and been very noisy. I believe it’s because I had the belt too tight before. The PTO and deck has actually engaged and run pretty smoothly. It’s just that I’m guessing on belt tension since the tension indicator on the mule drive doesn’t move as the tension changes. I’m trying to figure out how to fix it. I don’t want to spend $500 or so on a new one. Thanks again.
@@scottg674 I'd say your bearings are dry but you said you replaced the spindles, which has me puzzled. Are you using OEM John Deere belts?
Can you hook up a loader for the 316?
The JD 44 loader was an optional attachment for these tractors. But they are getting harder to find and cost more than the tractors are usually worth.
@@MichaelTJD60 Are there any other loaders that will work with it?
@@HalfmoonVIP The CTC 3240 should work with a 316 Onan.
@@MichaelTJD60 thanks!
My humble opinion is the 316 is far superior to the 318. I know I'll be heckled here, but less leak points on hydraulics and the same chassis, tires, power plant, lights, tranny, attachments, and other than the operator, same package. With that said, What can a 318 do that a 316 can't?I have an '84 316. I have an after market 3pt. hitch, everything else came from John Deere in Bangor, Maine. A few upgrades you want to look that are really inexpensive are headlight upgrades to LED bulbs and fixing your non functioning right side light, removing and upgrading to tail light from reflectors, an older, single spool 54 dozer blade - mine is a brass tag blade for a 140. Swap tires on rear to Carlisle true Powers 4 ply, and I run in Maine year round the 4 ply Firestone tri-ribs, and have no issues.When running the headlights in LED and tail lights, you're battery won't even know lights are on. Also - install aluminum 9 LED tractor lights on your rear fenders that with all lights on and the front PTO running no battery light on.Get yourself a 30 Hyd. Tiller, 54 Dozer blade, 3 pt. hitch, grill guard with weight bracket, a load lifter, and 15 suitcase weights.Chains on rear for winter and you've got the best working tractor in America.God bless and crank up that awesome John Deere. 316 is the best garden tractor ever made.
+Jake Hughes I do see where you are coming from. For what I do, I don't really need power steering or H2 hydraulics. I do agree with you that it's less crap to worry about fixing or leaking. I don't need power steering to mow grass - the heavy-duty steering box on my 316 steers real easy. Only time you really need power steering with these is if you are running a loader or the big two-stage shaft driven 47 blower, which is one of the things a 316 can NOT handle because it is only H1 hydraulics. Only downfall really. Otherwise I agree with you on pretty much everything. Since this video was taken, I have installed working tail lights on the tractor. The previous owner put new headlight bulbs in and they shine bright, but when they finally die I will probably do the LED upgrade. Just can't put forth the money right now. I have also purchased a 54" blade with a manual angling kit that came off a 140 and plan to use it all winter for plowing snow. Just as capable as a 318, even with the manual angle. I don't need hydraulic angle. I have wheel weights and chains and I could probably get a brush guard and weight bracket to hold extra weights if I really wanted to. I have 75 lbs of weights for each wheel, plus tire chains, so we'll see how they do.
As for a 3-point hitch, my uncle has one on his 318 and I have a sleeve hitch on my 210 so any ground-engaging work I have covered. This 316 is so nice I don't want to put it to work doing heavy stuff just yet. I'd rather use my gear drive 210 than the hand control 316 to pull a Brinly plow or cultivator anyway. Only reason I'd get a 3 point hitch is if I had a rear PTO or needed to hold weights. My Carlisle Tru-Powers are mounted on the 210 which is my 4H fair pulling tractor so they will stay mounted on that tractor. I have a set of the Carlisle All-Trail HDAP tires that will be my snow removal tires. Going to keep the tire chains on them year-round.
+MichaelTJD60 I do wish I had the turning brakes and the fuel shutoff valve from the 318 though. Those were just some of the things they eliminated to make the 316 an economy version of the 318.
are the onan carburetors hard to get right
Yup.
What does it mean when I am snowblowing and the engine bogs down?
Either you're going too fast, or it's just too much snow for your engine to handle.
Means you have to much snow move to Florida and that will solve the problem
Means you need a bigger tractor or less snow.
yes the battery light was on
Is it in neutral, PTO off, and brake pedal pushed down?
They were made to work not sit and look pretty! My restored 140 was the guys mowing and work tractor before I bought it
1944johndeerel That's what I always say! Your 140 is a real nice machine, looks good and works hard....just like my 316 is a show queen and a hard worker. At least I try to keep from scratching the paint!
how did the previous owner of the tractor to make sound like a top.
The engine was taken care of and the previous owner cleaned the carburetor. It didn't skip a beat. Probably the strongest running Onan engine I've ever seen. Nothing could kill it.
whats the difference between the 316 and 317? and which ones better?
There are two 316's...the 316 Kohler (made in 1978 only) has dual hydraulics, dual brakes, the Dana rear axle, and the Kohler K341 16 HP engine. In 1979, it was replaced by the 317, which is basically the same tractor, except it has a Kohler KT17 opposed twin engine and a driveshaft with universal joints instead of a straight shaft. 317's developed a bad reputation due to premature engine failures from a lack of oil pressure, the steering was not hefty enough for the weight of the engine up front, and the driveshafts had a tendency to wear out because they weren't greasable. The 318 replaced the 317 in 1983, and the following year they introduced the 316 Onan, shown in this video. The 316 Onan is built on the 318 frame and has the same drivetrain as a 318, but lacks a few of the 318's features...manual steering instead of power steering, single hydraulic remote instead of dual, single brake pedal instead of dual, no hydrostatic oil cooler, no fuel selector valve (reserve tank), and reflectors instead of taillights.
The 316 Onan is my preference...they are basically just a more affordable version of the 318 and most of the 318's features can be swapped onto one. The frames are better and the Onan engines, if taken care of, tend to outlast the Kohler KT17's (and in my opinion, are a much better-designed and more durable engine all around).
@@MichaelTJD60Thanks for the response, I know u have been busy with College and not really been making a lot of video's. Miss the 316 from this video, that was a great tractor but sadly she cant last forever
@@jackolson6479 Someday I hope to find a 318 as nice as this 316 was. I'll just keep buying and selling until then. I bought a 318 last week and sold it yesterday.
@@MichaelTJD60 Oh thats great, Im gonna sell my John Deere 108 that I restored and my John Deere Lx277 all wheel steer for a John Deere 316 with a cab and blade, do you think that Is a good idea?
how much would a john deere 318 cost used
Pretty broad question...it depends on condition, location, and whether it comes with attachments.
Do you have to keep hand on forward reverse control to move it. ?
You should be able to just slide it into forward or reverse and it will hold that speed by itself, unless the linkage is worn out. I always keep my hand on the lever just to be safe.
Onan parts.com will get you anything you need for your John Deere 316 engine.
I buy most of my parts from either Onan Parts or Boomer's Onan Parts, both are great resources.
You have to watch with this 18 hp Onan there gets to be lots of carbon deposits on the valves / valve stem. It can end up seizing the motor, the original book said to clean it out every 200hrs. That's what happened to me, and it was a pain in the ass to clean the entirety of the rotating assembly
+sleeperfox302x I've never heard that about the Onans, but like any old gas engine, they do get to burning oil and carbon buildup after so many hours of run time. The P218G is known to toss the valve guides/seats because of the excessive heat that people let build up inside the cooling fins. That's why I tear the machine apart once every month or two and clean all the dirt and debris out from inside the cooling fins - so the engine stays cool.
i also have a free 316 waving around... well see what happens
+Scienceburritto Yeah I'm curious to see where that 316 ends up.
I thought lead paint was banned in 1978
Not sure why I said lead paint, I meant enamel.
@@MichaelTJD60 You had me confused for a sec lol.
If its a regular use machine....use it! It was made to be used. Forget the paint. Its already been repainted. Its not original anymore. It can be repainted again can't it?....geez! ...sorry, not just aimed at you.
@@joemendyk9994 in hind sight, this one was too nice to use for anything besides shows and parades. But 10 years ago it was the nicest 316 I could find for the money and it made me happy. These days I buy them a dime a dozen...