Awesome idea. After you're done with your first cut, do you reuse the same nails or no? I assume they get bent when you pry them out and might not be usable a for a 2nd use? I'm going to try this method and wanted to get your thoughts on that. Thanks again for sharing this method!!!
No real sure what you mean...but I think the answer you need is to use longer nails on the smaller end of the log. Level a set of nails at each end then use the string to set all the others. Hopefully that helps.
I watched a bunch of milling videos. This is the BEST top cut video. Cuz I've had longer logs then a board to use as my guide then I gota take everything apart to reset. I'm goina try your idea when I get home. Again awsome video. Subscribed
I've been trying to think of a system for doing a first top cut on a project where i'd have to hike the chainsaw and mill in, but didn't want to deal with carrying a rail in or assembling something complex on site. This is perfect. Easy and portable. I'm sure it's time consuming to get that first cut, but once you have that first straight cut, you can make rails on site for doing your next logs quicker and easier. Great idea!
How do you account for log taper and also if you drive the second nail to deep or shallow that will change how your first cut slopes, also leveling side to side only levels side to side but doesn’t make the heads of the nails level through the length of the log. Not trolling just looking to learn
hey mate great job...im about to build timber frame house for myself...looking for alternative ways to cut my beams...have a few questions if you don"t mind...when you say straight do you mean as straight as your top board??and that"s a powerful chainsaw...do you recon something smaller will do the job as well as this I mean husqvarna 562xp??
To late but for others; 562xp is just OK for smaller logs, on the boarder line. You really want to be looking at 90cc and up for serious milling. The straightness, or rather flatness of your bearer board, ladder or shop bought rails is essential as that flatness transfers down to the rest of your cuts.
How does free hand sawing like you did with the sides compare to using the Alaskan mill? Is it faster/much faster? Less taxing on the saw? Is a 10 degree rip chain the way to go either way? Thanks!
Faster yes...easier on the saw yes. It's much harder to get a perfect cut. It great if your chain is damaged because you can still get a cut in. 10 degree yes. The longer the bar thee better for freehanding. I like. It to square a log up then use. The mill to finish it.
hey mate great job...im about to build timber frame house for myself...looking for alternative ways to cut my beams...have a few questions if you don"t mind...when you say straight do you mean as straight as your top board??and that"s a powerful chainsaw...do you recon something smaller will do the job as well as this I mean husqvarna 562xp??
Yes. For sure you can make lumber and timbers as straight as dimensional store bought lumber. If you blank on building something more than a couple hundred square feet, I would go with a bigger saw. If you do use the 562 I would be very careful to make sure it doesnt overheat especially in the wide slabs.. Keep that bar oiled. So far my 395 is still the king. Running strong after all these years milling. Good luck with your project. It's a work out! Doc.
@@doc3toes hey mate thanks for quick replay...actually I've done a little bit search for chainsaw and I found 395xp it's a second hand saw and i don"t know who"s been useing it and for how long but it's for pros so i bet its good...they do service there in the store if anything break... anyway....it's without bar and chain so the question is...what would you recommend to buy for milling just like you do??
@@lukaszbojanowski5290 my 395 was used as well. Still going strong. You can ask the saw shop what the compression is. That is a good indicator of piston/cylinder health. granberg.com/product/g778-36-alaskan-mk-iv-chain-saw-mill/ Is the mill I bought. Using a 30" bar and make sure you get a ripping chain and spend a lot of time practicing your sharpening skills. It makes all the difference. Set the oiler wide open on the saw. It should use 1 tank of oil for every 2 tanks of fuel. Mix 50:1 with 91 octane.
man, so clever way of doing long logs. thanks!
Hope the log is laying flat with no bow. I like your idea 😊
Nice video with a new way to level things.Like your idea. I always have screwed the plank down and leveled it as I went. Will try your idea. Thanks.
i still use a plank for shorter stuff.
Great idea
GreT idea for even shorter pieces. Less stuff (ladder) to haul in
Awesome idea. After you're done with your first cut, do you reuse the same nails or no? I assume they get bent when you pry them out and might not be usable a for a 2nd use? I'm going to try this method and wanted to get your thoughts on that. Thanks again for sharing this method!!!
Also, would you suggest using screws instead? Since those would be much easier to screw in and out as needed?
Yes I reuse the nails several times as long as they will hold the top board
You don't use the nails again on the same log unless you screw up the cut. You don't need a board for the next cut.
Great tips, thank you!!!
Hey, how do deal with the down sloping of a log? Level nails parallel to side and in front?
No real sure what you mean...but I think the answer you need is to use longer nails on the smaller end of the log. Level a set of nails at each end then use the string to set all the others. Hopefully that helps.
Friggin FANTASTIC strategy! THIS is what I was looking for. I need to cut 2 sill logs for my 36 ft long cabin with my alaskan. THANK YOU!!
I,ve been using the string and nail method for 40 years. Only a 5ft board. Longest beam was a 72 ft 6by 18.😂
That was a perfectly good tree until you killed it and made a perfectly good beam
What kind of wizardry is this? So simple
3 tanks of fuel in 20m?
Great idea
Good work! Nice video. Yep, the string method is what I use on the first cut for long beams. You are even using the same string as I use.
I watched a bunch of milling videos. This is the BEST top cut video. Cuz I've had longer logs then a board to use as my guide then I gota take everything apart to reset. I'm goina try your idea when I get home. Again awsome video. Subscribed
I've been trying to think of a system for doing a first top cut on a project where i'd have to hike the chainsaw and mill in, but didn't want to deal with carrying a rail in or assembling something complex on site. This is perfect. Easy and portable. I'm sure it's time consuming to get that first cut, but once you have that first straight cut, you can make rails on site for doing your next logs quicker and easier. Great idea!
How do you account for log taper and also if you drive the second nail to deep or shallow that will change how your first cut slopes, also leveling side to side only levels side to side but doesn’t make the heads of the nails level through the length of the log. Not trolling just looking to learn
Great video
The best ideas are the simple ones. Bravo!
Now that's what am talking about...a prudent Lumberjack... Nice work...great saw!!!
That does seem a lot simpler than trying to find a long guide for the saw mill.
This is next level for sure. Great idea, I’ll have to try this method.
hey mate great job...im about to build timber frame house for myself...looking for alternative ways to cut my beams...have a few questions if you don"t mind...when you say straight do you mean as straight as your top board??and that"s a powerful chainsaw...do you recon something smaller will do the job as well as this I mean husqvarna 562xp??
To late but for others;
562xp is just OK for smaller logs, on the boarder line. You really want to be looking at 90cc and up for serious milling.
The straightness, or rather flatness of your bearer board, ladder or shop bought rails is essential as that flatness transfers down to the rest of your cuts.
Very nice technique many thanks.
How does free hand sawing like you did with the sides compare to using the Alaskan mill? Is it faster/much faster? Less taxing on the saw? Is a 10 degree rip chain the way to go either way? Thanks!
Faster yes...easier on the saw yes. It's much harder to get a perfect cut. It great if your chain is damaged because you can still get a cut in. 10 degree yes. The longer the bar thee better for freehanding. I like. It to square a log up then use. The mill to finish it.
@@doc3toes That's super helpful! Thanks very much@
hey mate great job...im about to build timber frame house for myself...looking for alternative ways to cut my beams...have a few questions if you don"t mind...when you say straight do you mean as straight as your top board??and that"s a powerful chainsaw...do you recon something smaller will do the job as well as this I mean husqvarna 562xp??
Yes. For sure you can make lumber and timbers as straight as dimensional store bought lumber. If you blank on building something more than a couple hundred square feet, I would go with a bigger saw. If you do use the 562 I would be very careful to make sure it doesnt overheat especially in the wide slabs.. Keep that bar oiled. So far my 395 is still the king. Running strong after all these years milling. Good luck with your project. It's a work out! Doc.
@@doc3toes hey mate thanks for quick replay...actually I've done a little bit search for chainsaw and I found 395xp it's a second hand saw and i don"t know who"s been useing it and for how long but it's for pros so i bet its good...they do service there in the store if anything break... anyway....it's without bar and chain so the question is...what would you recommend to buy for milling just like you do??
@@lukaszbojanowski5290 my 395 was used as well. Still going strong. You can ask the saw shop what the compression is. That is a good indicator of piston/cylinder health.
granberg.com/product/g778-36-alaskan-mk-iv-chain-saw-mill/
Is the mill I bought. Using a 30" bar and make sure you get a ripping chain and spend a lot of time practicing your sharpening skills. It makes all the difference.
Set the oiler wide open on the saw. It should use 1 tank of oil for every 2 tanks of fuel. Mix 50:1 with 91 octane.
@@doc3toes thanks for good tips
Nice & simple I love it!
Are you using a rip or regular cross cut chain? If a rip, what angles are you setting?
ripping chain at 10 degrees. have been hand filing with a dremmel and a diamond burr. recenlty bought a bench grinder to reset.
Great video, very helpful.
Ben . thanks. hope it saves you some sweat. happy milling. pls like and share.