How To: Rebuild Link Pin Front End! 1956 Ragtop - Volkswagen BUG | JW Classic VW
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- JW Classic VW brings you a breakdown and inspection of a VW BUG Link Pin Spindle on the driver's side.
One of the few VW websites I found that makes the Thrust Alignment Washer in multiple sizes.
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Detailed Suspension Breakdown Art From JBUGS
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Any information on performing maintenance or modifying your vehicle viewed on this channel is intended for general guidance only and must never be considered a substitute for the advice provided by a Certified Professional.
Great video..im from newfoundland canada..going to do this on my 75
Thanks Jason your videos are my goto videos always very helpful .Great quality and you keep it real with using tools that we all have in our shed .Cheers from Australia
Matt that is exactly what I love to hear man!! So happy when I'm able to help someone out!
G'day Kevin from Australia.
I think I've seen this 4 times now.
I'm glad I have the correct reamer but i didn't know I could get different size thrust washers.
Thanks for sharing. ✌
Yes sir, there is a multitude of sizes based off what you may need, I really just went off the idea of they were missing and "yup this should fill the GAP"... lol
Jason this is a big help thanks for sharing this video. Back 16 months ago or more i installed new Link & King pins on my 67 deluxe bus. When i was cleaning up the beam, i found a lot of rust holes and installed new metal welded up the beam, painted it and yes: foot issues( Deep Bone Ucler in bottom of my Foot) project stopped !! Once i was all healed up decided work on my 63 bettle along side my bus..(I guess i was thinking i was in my 30's or 40's) That failed another issue with the foot, now it is Nov. put the 63 bug back in storage. Now two years later starting back on the beam..I was not clear or did not remember where to take the measurements for the shim's. Thanks buddy for this video..will be starting up the week of the Nov. 11th & loading video's soon on this tasks.
So glad to heat your feeling better and will be back at it soon!!! That's awesome!! Glad the video was helpful too!! Stay warm up there brother!
Very good video! I’m going back to catch up on all your post. I have only fooled with late model front ends. Now I know why.😁
Glad you liked it Terry!! Thanks for your support brother!
Do the best with what you have.... that’s my motto also. Thanks for the great video and details that you left in it. Great job as always!
Yes sir... the list of tools I wish I had is a mile long... lol.
JW Classic VW I think that’s most of us.... if your list is only a mile long, you’re doing pretty damn good! 🤪😂
Thank you for this video, most of the other guys work on later style bugs and those of us who have the older models need a little help too 🤪
No problem brother!! Glad you liked the video!
Glad it was you doing it. I always ended up with axle grease on my shirt.
Moe
I always end up with Grease everywhere... lol
My late father was changing link pins when we were still in diapers in the nineteen fifties And sixties he was Volkswagen mechanic and service manager at a western Pennsylvania Volkswagen dealership.
I think link pins are stronger then the ball joints other then they had ball bearing wheel bearing s.
That's pretty amazing... I bet he had some great stories of when he worked on VWs. I'm glad you found the channel!
I purposely installed my link pin bushings 180° off (i.e. grease hole facing UP (ref: starting 27:00)) on my 61 Porsche (uses the same VW link pins & bushings). I had previously tapped each bushing's grease hole to accept a grease zerk fitting.
Now each steering knuckle has two additional grease fittings, so each link pin has a dedicated grease fitting, as do the upper and lower king pin. Versus the stock arrangement where one grease fitting has to supply grease to both a link pin and a king pin. And if one of those two is worn more than the other, then the worn one gets all the grease!
That is a great idea Kim!! I'm all about those custom mods that make the design even better. Would love to see some pics of what you did and of your car!! Awesome, thanks for sharing!
I've watched a few videos of this job, and appreciate the details you left in. Gives me a good idea of how things are. I do have 1 question though, in every video the bushings are driven out using extensions, sockets and a hammer. Would this job be easier to do using a hydraulic shop press?
Much easier with a press
Odd that I've watched several videos on this work and everybody uses the hammer technique. Guess when my parts come in, I'll make a video using a press and post it on my channel.
Nice job brother! =)
Thanks CT!!
Do you always have to put new parts on the beam i just want to put lowerd spindals on my 1962 bug
Jason! I have a 54 VW Oval... question Have you ever had inner bearings not fit the spindle??.. correct size (SKF 30305 LF) . Like just a little to small? How do you (when the bearing is loaded in the rotor with a seal in place, you cant put a torch to it!!! AHHHHHHH!! LOL, Thanks for any insight man!! Love the Videos! ****FIXED*** I took some 1K & 2K sand paper and polished the heck out of them. After that, the bearings slide right on the spindles!!!
Awesome, Glad you figured it out brother! Sticking with a problem or even walking away for a minute then re-attacking can be the difference between driving your car or throwing in the towel. Good job on sticking with it!
A suggestion: spray the PB Blaster on the day before and let it go to work. The tie rod end will slide right out and the other parts will be much easier to remove.
Sooo True Brother!! I normally like to let it soak overnight,
Thanks JW for your reply. To the best of my knowledge, it is the beam that came on the car originally. Any way for me to know if it is the old or newer beam. I replaced king pins and bushings sometime ago, but haven't driven it more then 200 miles. It's been setting in my shop for a few years, getting a good collection of dust. It's a nice car and fun to drive, but it has a shimmy at around 45 mph. And that is due to my bad shim placement, I think (wrong amount of shims on both sides of the spindle). Plus another spot of my concern, is some yo-yo manage to break out the bolt holes for the shroud on the bottom of the engine. I need to figure out how to fix that. Thanks again for the fast reply.
Shimmy could be your steering box is out of adjustment, might need to check that out. Also check your pit-man arm to make sure it is pushed up correctly and tightened.
Jason-At the beginning of the video you describe having found a problem with the passenger side king pin, and In the rest of the video, you work on the driver's side. Did you fix the passenger side? Also, how did you determine that the problem was in the king pins and not some other part of the front suspension? Thanks👍
Well of course I fixed the Passenger side silly... I had actually already done the passenger side. That's how I discovered the thrust washer was missing, hence the up and down movement in the assembly. 😃😃😃
Great video but I have a question I was driving my vw and one of my wheels is straight and one was turned and I couldn't go any where I grabbed the tire that was turned and turned it back straight by hand while the car was on the ground but when I turn It with the steering wheel only one turns. I checked for broken tie rods but they all look fine any ideas what this could be thanks I really need to fix this soon
That sounds crazy... something is definitely either broken or way out of adjustment. I would put it up in the air crank the wheel stop to stop full left and right while someone was looking at everything. You should be able to pin point the issue pretty quick.
Jason i am rebuilding my 1961 VW bug. When installing Empi drop spindles i notice the king pin is real loose in the spindle. I dont think this is normal especially for new drop spindles. can you comment your thoughts?
So is the king pin loose throughout the carrier? Normally the best practice here is to replace the brass bushings at the time of spindle install. Then you would ream the bushings and spindle at the same time. My guess is the original set up may have been worn in such a way that it was putting pressure on the king pin.
Have you considered installing studs /nut bolt kit in the drum brakes for easy wheel install?
Yes, I even have a set from a 65 beetle I had when I lived in Italy, but the studs are super long. I really haven't done it because disc brakes all the way around are in the near future. 😎
Is the King Pin, Thrust Washer that is already there okay to use as long as it isn't damaged. Also, my VW being a 1958, I need 10 shims instead of eight, correct. Thanks, great video. Buy a vise yet? :-)
Hey there John!! Yes if the thrust washer looks good you should be ok. What you dont want is to much play in the spindle and king pin carrier. Most of this play is taken up once you grease the assembly. As for the shims, if you truly have an early beam with OG upper and lower arms that have a flat mounting face and not the dished face then yes. If it's a later beam then it would be 8 shims, the o-ring and washer. These are sold as kits with new king pins.
I don't understand how to loosen the pinch bolt. I jacked up my 62 bug, and located the 17mm nuts on both link pins. There is a 14mm rectangle bolt that screws in horizontally compared to the 17mm nuts, is that the pinch bolt? I tried for hours to loosen that stupid bolt, but nothing worked. I just wanted to tighten up my link pins. Also, all my zerks took lube, except for the passenger side top link pin. The zerk is working good, I took it out and tested it. I put a heat gun up in the hole and cleaned it out, it looked clear but still, no lube went in no matter what.
Hey there,
Removing the link pin carrier the vertical part that holds the spindle you first want to spray everything in a penetrating oil like Free All (amzn.to/44dibYv) this stuff is great, WD-40 or liquid wrench... you may have done this already. Then you'll loosen the 17mm nuts, the bolts may be pretty tight they are released by turning the link pins with the 14mm wrench. The grove in the link pins tighten and loosen on the bolt as you move the link pin in and out with the 14mm wrench. When the tension is released on the bolt you should be able to remove it. This may be rusted and require some taps with a hammer and drift (be careful not to mess up the threads). As for the one zert not taking grease well sometimes it will become a solid if it hasn't been serviced in a while.
@JW Classic VW Cool,thanks. Today I was able to adjust it. I still can't get lube inside there. I took out the zerk, and blew compressed air inside. The zerk is functioning normally. Can I just drill a hole just behind the zerk fitting?
Sure like your bumpers, where did they come from
Hey Doug, yeah I love them... you are required to drill and mount the brackets.
Solid Aluminum Bumpers
www.jbugs.com/product/707110-111.html
Front Bumper Brackets
www.jbugs.com/product/707022.html
Rear Bumper Brackets
www.jbugs.com/product/707023.html
You mentioned something about an o ring but I didn't see where you installed it at in the final clips.
It is installed with the Link pin build up so it would be Link pin, outer shims, link pin carrier, inner shims, o-ring, slotted shim "for later model" for early models it may just be shims with no o-ring or slotted shim.
@@JWClassicVW oh i see it in the chart @ 32:20 in between the A and C shims and the slotted shim.
@@HellBoundProjects Yes... you got it man
Great video and I learned a lot but you completely lost me with the shim math on the dry board. How did you come up with the numbers of shims to use on each side?
There is a chart linked in the description that provides where shims need to be placed... I also showed this chart at the end of the video.
It's all based on the difference in mm between the top and bottom arm.
Thank you for the comment and question!!
What’s the jw stand for on your TH-cam name?
First and middle name
Seriously...you don't have a vice(no hookers even), What...do you live on island so desolate even Harbor Freight hasn't opened a store there yet. ;-)
Love your videos, by the way.
I have a vise now... 😆
its a good video but it would be nice to show where the recessed washer and o-ring goes on the link pin
I may have covered that in the 2nd video showing this installation.
th-cam.com/video/PxdZQAc782A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fAz6pDqGdNGkEETZ
why you no vice
Just didn't have one yet Donny... i do have one now brother!!
for christ's sake man go to Harbor freight and buy a vise.Make your life easy. But good vid man.
Lol... right been looking for a old shop one but I love Harbor Freight!!