Good clear video. I built a de-rusting tank out of a 55 gallon polyethylene drum and rolled a steel sheet into a cylinder to act as the sacrificial anode. We do a lot of de-rusting of our artifacts and old tools with great success. The wider the piece of steel the better, to expose more anode surface for the parts that are hanging in the tank. I have a few comments and suggestions to make which will perhaps be useful to your viewers. Using a 10 Amp battery charger produces too much current for the rusty steel. That is why you saw those very active bubbles and surface scum being produced too quickly. You want the process to go much slower, using no more than 2 to 3 Amps. The reason for this is that as the hydrogen gas separates from the oxygen in the water molecule, it embeds itself into the surface of the steel that is being de-rusted. The result is that there is hydrogen embrittlement just under the surface of the steel. While this might not be a major issue for the top of the saw table, other parts that are bearing against one another, like a lead screw, could be a problem And result in their chipping, when put into service. For example, if you would try to de-rust a chisel, the sharp edge could become very brittle and could chip, when used. Using lower amperage reduces the amount of hydrogen that is embedded in the steel surface. Prior to putting your parts in the tank they must be free of grease and other contaminants. Otherwise, the washing soda will raise a lot of other scum to the top and also slow down the process. I found the best way to clean the parts quickly is with a pressure washer used outside the tank. You can get most of the contaminants off easily this way and then wire them up to be lowered into the electrolyte. Another suggestion, when the part is removed from the tank, it is covered with a black oxide called magnetite. It is the same material that is used to protect the surface of drillbits that you see that have been blackened with that material for rust protection. However, in the case of the electrolysis process, this material does not adhere tightly to the surface and comes off as a black mess on your fingers. Hence, the suggestion to wear gloves. When we remove our museum’s objects from the tank, the best way we have found to remove magnetite and other remaining bits of material from the artifacts is with a pressure washer. It is amazing how quickly and cleanly the parts are revealed to be completely free of rust. Remember, however, to immediately use WD-40 or wipe the parts with oil as soon as you dry them with a towel. Or a leaf blower works well for removing the water. Flash rusting will immediately begin, if they are not coated with oil quickly. Another technique that we use is when preparing the electrolyte solution of washing soda, we have found it useful to use a small amount of hot water in a container to which the crystals are added. They are harder to dissolve in cold water and settle to the bottom of the tank too quickly to be immediately useful. If you use warm water in a small container, you may then stir it until you can visually see that all the crystals are dissolved. Then pour and stir the solution into your tank. Large polyethylene barrels sometimes can be found near electrical contractor businesses, who buy wire in bulk in these containers. These are some of the things I have learned over the years of de-rusting at the Museum of American Heritage. Good luck with your de-rusting efforts, it certainly has proven for us to be the most cost-effective and environmentally-friendly method for taking rust of parts.
All respect. Taking the time to prepare such detailed videos, delivering information, values and professionalism. Need more people like you in this world.
Excellent Video. I'm retired and teaching and sharing with the children at the community center. You and other excellent tradesmen help guys like me on the wood working journey. Thank you for sharing.
I may have to try electrolysis on my next rusty project. I have an identical saw that I just finished spraying the last coat of paint on. I didn't have as much rust and was able to get it off with wire wheels on my bench grinder and on my drill. For the top I built a plastic lined box like you but used about 4 gals of white vinegar. After a 24 hr soak, all the rust was gone. I wasn't able to paint it right away and by the next day the underside of the top was covered in orange rust which required a lot of scrubbing with drill mounted wire brushes. You advised coating the bare metal immediately with a rust preventative. Great advice!!! Too bad I didn't see your video earlier and had to learn it the hard way. A quick way to remove the angle adjusting screw is to chuck the end of the shaft in a drill and slowly unscrew it. Very informative videos that I found after I had already done the work.
JT ,I have used the vinegar system (acid etching) to remove rust on all kinds of things. From drill bits , tools and especially all my metal files. It not only removes rust but sharpens them as well. I normally soak for 24 hours, a couple times i have done 36 to 48 depending on size amount of rust. I rinse them in mixture of water and baking soda to neutralize the acid , then clear water. wipe off and spray with wd 40. that stop it from flash rusting. After watching this, i am going to try it on the saw I just bought. Thank you Jerry for the series !!
Thank you! This is the best demonstration of using electrolysis to remove rust, I have seen on TH-cam. The bigger battery charger seemed to make the difference at 10 amps. Thanks again.
Most videos that I referenced before I tried electrolysis were doing small parts, and recommended a 6 amp charger setting. When my small charger wouldn't work, I used the lowest setting on my big charger, which was 10 amps. Considering how much metal I was working with, (approx. 35 lbs. with the "mechanics" and 68 lbs. with the top) I didn't see how it could hurt to try it. I can't wait to try it on an 8" jointer I have seriously neglected. I do appreciate your comments...I wish everyone would give a "thumbs up" or "thumbs down" to let me know how we are doing with our videos.I need to finish the videos on the saw, but will seriously try to give more "set-up" information in another video as soon as possible...it's a great technique. Thanks,Jerry Cole
As I'm watching these videos renovating this Craftsman table saw (I inherited one in much much better shape from my wife's uncle), I find it amusing how awful you find the rusty parts. I mean it's an old rusty table saw that needs to be derusted and cleaned, new bearings and lots of lubrication. It's not that awful it's just the nature of the beast. BTW the editing is first rate, can't wait to see the finished product.
How about a detailed video on your electrolysis setup, the wiring and equipment. Just bought an old Craftsman belt drive table saw, time for me to get to work on it.
I really like this video. Could you please send me a list of the products and instructions of how you assembled your electrolysis tank. Thank you so much.
Jerry, I found this very interesting and I am still learning. Thanks for the video but I wish you would have done one more on re-assemble and tune up. I would have loved to see this machine when it was completed. If you did, I did not find it. I love old machinery and like to bring them back to new or almost new condition. My problem is I do not have enough room in my workshop.
Great explanation of the process, but probably best to do it outside on the driveway. I also think the schools need to reintroduce shop classes to teach skills once again.
I discovered a problem yesterday with my 113.298030 Craftsman table saw when I tried to tilt the blade to cut a 45 degree. Beyond 10 degrees it got increasingly hard to turn the wheel. I did everything I could to get it freed up to no avail....could only get to 20 degrees. Brushed the screw rod, lubed it everywhere I could. Don't know why it's so hard to turn...do you have any ideas short of dismantling the saw???
I have an old Craftsman saw similar to this. It really was in pretty good shape other than the rusty cast iron top. My question is it really worth fixing up these old saws? I think I would like a roller stand, new fence and miter system new belt and maybe new larger HP motor. Cost is about $600 to do this. Would you spend this much money on an old saw or opt for a new cabinet saw for about $1500?
Gary Karczewski I have a old craftsman like this one, it’s not rusty but I have already rebuilt the motor, installed a besmyer fence and replaced the wings with homemade ones. I got the saw for nothing when we cleaned out my grandpas shop. I now have a ripped apart to replace the arbor bearings. Yeah I think it’s worth it to fix them up
I wish some of my customers would comment on your question.... I really don't want to turn my channel into an "infomercial", but do want to help you. To be honest, the amount you spend will depend on how well you want your saw to cut. If you have A Sears with the motor hanging out the rear of the saw, it probably vibrates like crazy because the original pulleys don't run true and the belts are stiff and develop a memory. This vibration causes the blade to wobble, causing saw marks, burns, and kickback. You should fix this problem first, as it's also a safety issue. 1. Installing one of our pulley and belt sets will eliminate 95% of the vibration problem, and improve the cut by 20%-25%. 2. You should make sure that the saw is in good alignment. Our PALS kits allow you to adjust the saw with an "Allen wrench" instead of a hammer, like most saw manufacturers recommend. You can watch the installation video for adjustment on the PALS page of our site, and watch the technique we use to check the alignment. 3. Install the best blade you can afford. The TS2000 (TS21040TK) 40 tooth thin kerf blade that we offer on our site is absolutely the finest combination blade in the country. The thin kerf reduces the amount of material you remove by 25%, and will make the saw more powerful than it would be with a "full kerf" 1/8" width blade. Doing any of these things will help the saw, but doing all of them should enable your Sears to perform as well as any new saw with the motor hanging out the rear ( in the $1000. - $1500. range) being sold in the US. The Sears might not have the power of the newer saws, but I guarantee the cuts you will get would be better than on the new ones. By the way, every product we sell has a money back guarantee if you're not completely satisfied. I hope I answered your question adequately, without getting people upset thinking this was a "sales pitch".....it's not, it's a fact.Our website address is www.in-lineindustries.com if you want more information . Jerry
I just bought one of these saws for a fun winter project. I am going to give this a shot. Thanks for sharing!
Good clear video. I built a de-rusting tank out of a 55 gallon polyethylene drum and rolled a steel sheet into a cylinder to act as the sacrificial anode. We do a lot of de-rusting of our artifacts and old tools with great success. The wider the piece of steel the better, to expose more anode surface for the parts that are hanging in the tank.
I have a few comments and suggestions to make which will perhaps be useful to your viewers.
Using a 10 Amp battery charger produces too much current for the rusty steel. That is why you saw those very active bubbles and surface scum being produced too quickly. You want the process to go much slower, using no more than 2 to 3 Amps. The reason for this is that as the hydrogen gas separates from the oxygen in the water molecule, it embeds itself into the surface of the steel that is being de-rusted. The result is that there is hydrogen embrittlement just under the surface of the steel. While this might not be a major issue for the top of the saw table, other parts that are bearing against one another, like a lead screw, could be a problem And result in their chipping, when put into service. For example, if you would try to de-rust a chisel, the sharp edge could become very brittle and could chip, when used. Using lower amperage reduces the amount of hydrogen that is embedded in the steel surface.
Prior to putting your parts in the tank they must be free of grease and other contaminants. Otherwise, the washing soda will raise a lot of other scum to the top and also slow down the process. I found the best way to clean the parts quickly is with a pressure washer used outside the tank. You can get most of the contaminants off easily this way and then wire them up to be lowered into the electrolyte.
Another suggestion, when the part is removed from the tank, it is covered with a black oxide called magnetite. It is the same material that is used to protect the surface of drillbits that you see that have been blackened with that material for rust protection. However, in the case of the electrolysis process, this material does not adhere tightly to the surface and comes off as a black mess on your fingers. Hence, the suggestion to wear gloves. When we remove our museum’s objects from the tank, the best way we have found to remove magnetite and other remaining bits of material from the artifacts is with a pressure washer. It is amazing how quickly and cleanly the parts are revealed to be completely free of rust. Remember, however, to immediately use WD-40 or wipe the parts with oil as soon as you dry them with a towel. Or a leaf blower works well for removing the water. Flash rusting will immediately begin, if they are not coated with oil quickly.
Another technique that we use is when preparing the electrolyte solution of washing soda, we have found it useful to use a small amount of hot water in a container to which the crystals are added. They are harder to dissolve in cold water and settle to the bottom of the tank too quickly to be immediately useful. If you use warm water in a small container, you may then stir it until you can visually see that all the crystals are dissolved. Then pour and stir the solution into your tank.
Large polyethylene barrels sometimes can be found near electrical contractor businesses, who buy wire in bulk in these containers.
These are some of the things I have learned over the years of de-rusting at the Museum of American Heritage. Good luck with your de-rusting efforts, it certainly has proven for us to be the most cost-effective and environmentally-friendly method for taking rust of parts.
All respect. Taking the time to prepare such detailed videos, delivering information, values and professionalism. Need more people like you in this world.
facts
Excellent Video. I'm retired and teaching and sharing with the children at the community center. You and other excellent tradesmen help guys like me on the wood working journey. Thank you for sharing.
I may have to try electrolysis on my next rusty project. I have an identical saw that I just finished spraying the last coat of paint on. I didn't have as much rust and was able to get it off with wire wheels on my bench grinder and on my drill. For the top I built a plastic lined box like you but used about 4 gals of white vinegar. After a 24 hr soak, all the rust was gone. I wasn't able to paint it right away and by the next day the underside of the top was covered in orange rust which required a lot of scrubbing with drill mounted wire brushes. You advised coating the bare metal immediately with a rust preventative. Great advice!!! Too bad I didn't see your video earlier and had to learn it the hard way.
A quick way to remove the angle adjusting screw is to chuck the end of the shaft in a drill and slowly unscrew it.
Very informative videos that I found after I had already done the work.
JT ,I have used the vinegar system (acid etching) to remove rust on all kinds of things. From drill bits , tools and especially all my metal files. It not only removes rust but sharpens them as well. I normally soak for 24 hours, a couple times i have done 36 to 48 depending on size amount of rust. I rinse them in mixture of water and baking soda to neutralize the acid , then clear water. wipe off and spray with wd 40. that stop it from flash rusting.
After watching this, i am going to try it on the saw I just bought. Thank you Jerry for the series !!
Thank you! This is the best demonstration of using electrolysis to remove rust, I have seen on TH-cam. The bigger battery charger seemed to make the difference at 10 amps. Thanks again.
Most videos that I referenced before I tried electrolysis were doing small parts, and recommended a 6 amp charger setting. When my small charger wouldn't work, I used the lowest setting on my big charger, which was 10 amps. Considering how much metal I was working with, (approx. 35 lbs. with the "mechanics" and 68 lbs. with the top) I didn't see how it could hurt to try it. I can't wait to try it on an 8" jointer I have seriously neglected. I do appreciate your comments...I wish everyone would give a "thumbs up" or "thumbs down" to let me know how we are doing with our videos.I need to finish the videos on the saw, but will seriously try to give more "set-up" information in another video as soon as possible...it's a great technique. Thanks,Jerry Cole
As I'm watching these videos renovating this Craftsman table saw (I inherited one in much much better shape from my wife's uncle), I find it amusing how awful you find the rusty parts. I mean it's an old rusty table saw that needs to be derusted and cleaned, new bearings and lots of lubrication. It's not that awful it's just the nature of the beast. BTW the editing is first rate, can't wait to see the finished product.
love your videos and i love wood work and learning. Unfortunately my parents could not teach me 1/1000th of what you just taught me in one video.
Hi there, could you please do a video on how you setup the electrolysis, love this video series, thankyou for taking the time to share your knowledge.
How about a detailed video on your electrolysis setup, the wiring and equipment. Just bought an old Craftsman belt drive table saw, time for me to get to work on it.
I really like this video. Could you please send me a list of the products and instructions of how you assembled your electrolysis tank. Thank you so much.
Jerry, I found this very interesting and I am still learning. Thanks for the video but I wish you would have done one more on re-assemble and tune up. I would have loved to see this machine when it was completed. If you did, I did not find it. I love old machinery and like to bring them back to new or almost new condition. My problem is I do not have enough room in my workshop.
Yeah, Bruce. Me too. That would be great.
Not bad for a non batchelor degreed person experience wins Good Job!
Great explanation of the process, but probably best to do it outside on the driveway. I also think the schools need to reintroduce shop classes to teach skills once again.
Agree with you 100% Parents should be responsible for our kids education.
I discovered a problem yesterday with my 113.298030 Craftsman table saw when I tried to tilt the blade to cut a 45 degree. Beyond 10 degrees it got increasingly hard to turn the wheel. I did everything I could to get it freed up to no avail....could only get to 20 degrees. Brushed the screw rod, lubed it everywhere I could. Don't know why it's so hard to turn...do you have any ideas short of dismantling the saw???
Nice. Now this is cool!
THANK YOU
Please advise source of metal bars and phenolic isolaters
I have an old Craftsman saw similar to this. It really was in pretty good shape other than the rusty cast iron top. My question is it really worth fixing up these old saws? I think I would like a roller stand, new fence and miter system new belt and maybe new larger HP motor. Cost is about $600 to do this. Would you spend this much money on an old saw or opt for a new cabinet saw for about $1500?
Gary Karczewski I have a old craftsman like this one, it’s not rusty but I have already rebuilt the motor, installed a besmyer fence and replaced the wings with homemade ones. I got the saw for nothing when we cleaned out my grandpas shop. I now have a ripped apart to replace the arbor bearings. Yeah I think it’s worth it to fix them up
AMAZING!!!!!!!!
Hello I live on texas ... how much for renew my craftsman table saw ????? or how I contact your business? ???
I wish some of my customers would comment on your question.... I really don't want to turn my channel into an "infomercial", but do want to help you. To be honest, the amount you spend will depend on how well you want your saw to cut. If you have A Sears with the motor hanging out the rear of the saw, it probably vibrates like crazy because the original pulleys don't run true and the belts are stiff and develop a memory. This vibration causes the blade to wobble, causing saw marks, burns, and kickback. You should fix this problem first, as it's also a safety issue. 1. Installing one of our pulley and belt sets will eliminate 95% of the vibration problem, and improve the cut by 20%-25%. 2. You should make sure that the saw is in good alignment. Our PALS kits allow you to adjust the saw with an "Allen wrench" instead of a hammer, like most saw manufacturers recommend. You can watch the installation video for adjustment on the PALS page of our site, and watch the technique we use to check the alignment. 3. Install the best blade you can afford. The TS2000 (TS21040TK) 40 tooth thin kerf blade that we offer on our site is absolutely the finest combination blade in the country. The thin kerf reduces the amount of material you remove by 25%, and will make the saw more powerful than it would be with a "full kerf" 1/8" width blade. Doing any of these things will help the saw, but doing all of them should enable your Sears to perform as well as any new saw with the motor hanging out the rear ( in the $1000. - $1500. range) being sold in the US. The Sears might not have the power of the newer saws, but I guarantee the cuts you will get would be better than on the new ones. By the way, every product we sell has a money back guarantee if you're not completely satisfied. I hope I answered your question adequately, without getting people upset thinking this was a "sales pitch".....it's not, it's a fact.Our website address is www.in-lineindustries.com if you want more information . Jerry
Nice
18:28 wow!!!!!
Would be a better video if the viewer could hear as well as see it.
lot of work just glass bead it !! or soda blast
It is difficult to understand your words. Sound not that good.