SIG Wonder 6s Overview

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
  • Since Quite a few of you have asked about what I did to my Sig wonder or how I got it to hold together at those speeds I figured I would make a video. Hope this helps a few of you!

ความคิดเห็น • 19

  • @waltergist8923
    @waltergist8923 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great work. Thanks for the video.

  • @superdutyspinner
    @superdutyspinner 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Oh yeah! I've been waiting for this video for awhile. Thanks Man, your stuff is awesome as always.

    • @westhobbiesrc8051
      @westhobbiesrc8051  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Glad I could probably get it out for you! I’m trying to juggle videos! But I hope it answers some questions!

  • @robstanton9215
    @robstanton9215 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Just a standard kit build 🤣🤣🤣🤣 thanks for the pointers and I hope you feel better!!! We’ve been sick here too but on the mend now. Take care Bro!

    • @westhobbiesrc8051
      @westhobbiesrc8051  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks buddy! Being sick sucks! Took everything I had to film this quick video lol but good thing I’ve got some saved! It is a standard kit build! I didn’t start cutting wing core down or making a new wing or fuse lol simple and easy!

  • @DadsRCHangar
    @DadsRCHangar 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice mods, looks like a fun Balsa plane 👍🏻

    • @westhobbiesrc8051
      @westhobbiesrc8051  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you! It is definitely a fun little plane!

  • @robwatson7999
    @robwatson7999 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thank you for posting this. I am about to build my first Wonder. 2 questions: please explain what you mean by “sheer webbing” the wing, what material is it, how is it applied? 2. I am probably going with nitro. What size engine would yo recommend for good speed but not being too heavy?
    It specs up to a 19, but did I hear you say you’ve put a 45 in it?

    • @westhobbiesrc8051
      @westhobbiesrc8051  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hopefully it helps! So sheer webbing is boxing in the spars, meaning in between each individual Riverbay you’re going to put a piece of balsa to tie each rib together and tired as spar as a box. Do you want to make sure the wood has grain going vertical when you cut each piece in between each rib. You will be amazed at the amount of strength you gain! I highly recommend adding a piece of solid balsa in the leading edge where your dowels go in and make sure that your towels recommended carbon fiber go into the spar. Also highly recommend adding at least another 1/8inch plywood layer to the leading edge bulkhead in the fuse As explained in the video. I have built a Wonder with a Rossi 45, was fast and fun! This electric one is definitely faster but it moved really good! You really want a engine that has a good power band and RPM. Any high revving 25 or 32 would do fantastic! The OS32 FX is a great engine. As well as any of the nova Rossi engines in that size. If you are really handy you can convert car engines and they make some big power because they rev super high.

    • @robwatson7999
      @robwatson7999 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@westhobbiesrc8051 thanks so much…. Actually, you have peaked my interest in potentially going electric. My friend has a Hobbywing Platinum Pro 100a ESC (V2 I assume), and what I believe is a Turnigy T500 1600kv motor, that he’ll sell me for $60. Considering a 4S battery with this set up. What do you think? From what I’ve read 4S batteries need to be forward to the firewall to get correct CG?

    • @westhobbiesrc8051
      @westhobbiesrc8051  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That would honestly be a perfect set up for this airplane! I would start with the APC 8 x 8 prop and go from there. But that will get this thing upwards of 150 mph plus no problem! So I’ve built two of them electric now both on the same set up and even on 4s 3300mAh pack my battery is just before the front bulkhead for perfect CG but yours might be different depending on how you build the nose out how far you stick your motor out so on and so forth. If you’re going to bolt your motor flat against the firewall like they recommend then yes you’re gonna need to shove that battery all the way forward and you may have to add nose weight. Because I’ve built so many different variants of the wonder over the years I have learned what I need to do for perfect CG and on the electric ones I needed to space my motors out roughly an inch and a half from the firewall so that way I didn’t have to run the battery all the way up and I had plenty of room to slide the battery around depending on what set up I was using and or size battery. If you’re going for all our speed I would highly recommend completely and closing the nose of the wonder like I did mine just make sure you put some kind of cooling vents in. Also a very important part of the build like I explained in the video is on the trailing edge of the elevator make sure you add some kind of carbon fiber flat stock it makes a massive difference on elevator flex and really strengthens that elevator up.

    • @westhobbiesrc8051
      @westhobbiesrc8051  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I don’t know if you’ve seen the flight video on this but it is on the channel and it really moves! 173 mph on 6s!

    • @robwatson7999
      @robwatson7999 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks again! I’m off to buy the motor and esc this morning! What got me interested I. A Wonder is I just built an Outlaw with a Webra 32 and Macs pipe. I love it! I expect the Wondra will fly similar to it.

  • @travisfries
    @travisfries ปีที่แล้ว

    The flat carbon fiber stock on the leading edge of the horizontal stabalizer...that is used in the vertical position to stiffen the leading edge, kind of like a leading edge spar?

    • @westhobbiesrc8051
      @westhobbiesrc8051  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes, it’s used as a spar. It stuffs up the stab big time and illuminates flexing.