She looks stunning! Well done that man. Good tip re future bonnet positioning with the two stainless steel rods in the brackets etc... but I noticed at 4:17 the front view of the car, the stainless steel strip on the leading edge of the bonnet doesn't line up with the corresponding strips on each front wing, yet the bonnet seems flush.
Really looking nice. Not surprised on the brake line issue. It seems that Moss, as great as they are, sometimes have quality problems with their suppliers (i.e., going with cheapest supplier) and parts have minor fit-up issues. I remember helping a friend of mine refit new windshield glass on his MGTD and we broke 3 windscreens trying to get them to fit. To Moss' credit, they provided replacement screens each time. Finally figured out that the screen supplier had slightly cut the glass wrong at the cut-out where the brackets went to tie the top windshield bar to the side brackets and this was allowing the bracket to put pressure on the glass as you tightened everything up and, BAM, glass cracked. Contacted Moss and gave them a detailed report on the issue, they contacted the supplier, had new windscreens cut, and problem fixed. Also surprised that you have such a large amount of negative camber on your front suspension. I run the longer lower arms, with lowered suspension, and only have about 3 degrees of negative camber. My guess is something is not right with the suspension set-up and it might be beneficial to go through a complete measurement cycle and compare to factory specifications. The longer lower arms are only supposed to provide 2 to 3 degrees of negative camber and your 5 to 10 degrees is way off. Also, if you are using polyurethane bushings, check to make sure they are correct and have not deteriorated. I used a well known name brand set of poly bushings (from Moss) in my rebuild and was surprised after five years to find the front bushings had totally deteriorated and the front suspension was basically floating inside the suspension links. Pretty disheartening considering the cost of the bushings. Replaced with a new set of Superperformance bushings and so far they are holding up. Lastly, I saw you had the spare tire mounted in your trunk. I do not carry one as there is no way I am going to try to change out the tire on the roadside for a lowered suspension car. I have a premium AAA subscription with extended towing distance for just in case. You free up a lot of space in the trunk by removing the tire and also remove about 25 to 30 pounds of weight. Something to think about.
Viewing your videos I have learnt an awful lot about the task of rebuilding an MGB. I am in possession of an original 64 which I was planning to keep as close as possible to being what I call Mr Original. Your resto is so tempting to to a total upgrade instead. Now I realise that I can't get it 100% but getting it close is still my aim but I have to admit that since I want to drive it whenever I want I will have to include some more modern inclusions. Seats are my problem which I can't find a answer for so I will probably end up breaking my own rules. I imagine having two sets. One set for originality and the other for general driving safety. I'm surprised that you didn't include a full width roll bar in yours. You might think that our projects are worlds apart but thanks to you I feel that my restoration will be my second as yours feels like my first. Thanks for recording your rebuild and I'm sure your little "Rod" will serve you well. I like all that you have chosen for it 'cept for the headlights but then again it is what I call a Rod.. Congratulations on it's completion & safe driving!
Thanks! - i'm still looking for a roll bar that will fit with the fold away hood. I've had one previously and they really stiffen up the back end of these and improve handling.
Yep. I know the very thoughts behind what you are going through. I found myself drawing up sketches of a specially made Roll Bar that doubled as the main part of the vinyl roof support. I was thinking to rest a custom foldable "nest" of supports that simply rest on it. Picture the vinyl roof attached permanently over the back and rolled inward into the space above the battery box (With a little folding). When you need it up, simply detach a couple of holding straps and unfold it directly over the roll bar. Unfold the additional bars that are already attached via velcro and rest this "Supports Nest" onto the roll bar. Attach the additional side fasteners and climb inside to connect things to the top of the windscreen. All done quickly without getting too wet.
Well we seem to be following each other Steve, great job, I'll have to go and check my brake lines now, pretty sure they are right but you have certainly started me thinking. I used drill bits in the bonnet hinges, same principle as you have used. Certainly looks the part and it's great to see you have personalised the car as you wanted it, just little subtle things that are really tasteful. My fuel tank arrived yesterday so that should go in next week and then heading for the big start up. Good luck going over the pits. Gas struts if you could remember, cheers.
Another trick for aligning the bonnet is to buy 2 of the lower rubber support blocks on the wing and place them towards the rear of the bonnet. Works great for the alignment on my GT.
The rubber support blocks are called "buffers", and cars through 1967 came with four, so your idea of adding two is not only a good one, its the way the factory did it early on. After '67 the seal at the rear of the opening extended around the corners to support the rear end of the bonnet, so I guess they felt that rear buffers were unnecessary.
Well yes technically - but they did ship some this way round. I like them like this as i feel the indicators are more visible from the front side angles.
She looks stunning! Well done that man. Good tip re future bonnet positioning with the two stainless steel rods in the brackets etc... but I noticed at 4:17 the front view of the car, the stainless steel strip on the leading edge of the bonnet doesn't line up with the corresponding strips on each front wing, yet the bonnet seems flush.
Good luck with the test, sure it will fly through it Steve.
Great car. Great job! 👍
Excellent !
Really looking nice. Not surprised on the brake line issue. It seems that Moss, as great as they are, sometimes have quality problems with their suppliers (i.e., going with cheapest supplier) and parts have minor fit-up issues. I remember helping a friend of mine refit new windshield glass on his MGTD and we broke 3 windscreens trying to get them to fit. To Moss' credit, they provided replacement screens each time. Finally figured out that the screen supplier had slightly cut the glass wrong at the cut-out where the brackets went to tie the top windshield bar to the side brackets and this was allowing the bracket to put pressure on the glass as you tightened everything up and, BAM, glass cracked. Contacted Moss and gave them a detailed report on the issue, they contacted the supplier, had new windscreens cut, and problem fixed.
Also surprised that you have such a large amount of negative camber on your front suspension. I run the longer lower arms, with lowered suspension, and only have about 3 degrees of negative camber. My guess is something is not right with the suspension set-up and it might be beneficial to go through a complete measurement cycle and compare to factory specifications. The longer lower arms are only supposed to provide 2 to 3 degrees of negative camber and your 5 to 10 degrees is way off. Also, if you are using polyurethane bushings, check to make sure they are correct and have not deteriorated. I used a well known name brand set of poly bushings (from Moss) in my rebuild and was surprised after five years to find the front bushings had totally deteriorated and the front suspension was basically floating inside the suspension links. Pretty disheartening considering the cost of the bushings. Replaced with a new set of Superperformance bushings and so far they are holding up.
Lastly, I saw you had the spare tire mounted in your trunk. I do not carry one as there is no way I am going to try to change out the tire on the roadside for a lowered suspension car. I have a premium AAA subscription with extended towing distance for just in case. You free up a lot of space in the trunk by removing the tire and also remove about 25 to 30 pounds of weight. Something to think about.
Viewing your videos I have learnt an awful lot about the task of rebuilding an MGB. I am in possession of an original 64 which I was planning to keep as close as possible to being what I call Mr Original. Your resto is so tempting to to a total upgrade instead.
Now I realise that I can't get it 100% but getting it close is still my aim but I have to admit that since I want to drive it whenever I want I will have to include some more modern inclusions. Seats are my problem which I can't find a answer for so I will probably end up breaking my own rules. I imagine having two sets. One set for originality and the other for general driving safety. I'm surprised that you didn't include a full width roll bar in yours.
You might think that our projects are worlds apart but thanks to you I feel that my restoration will be my second as yours feels like my first.
Thanks for recording your rebuild and I'm sure your little "Rod" will serve you well. I like all that you have chosen for it 'cept for the headlights but then again it is what I call a Rod..
Congratulations on it's completion & safe driving!
Thanks! - i'm still looking for a roll bar that will fit with the fold away hood. I've had one previously and they really stiffen up the back end of these and improve handling.
Yep. I know the very thoughts behind what you are going through. I found myself drawing up sketches of a specially made Roll Bar that doubled as the main part of the vinyl roof support. I was thinking to rest a custom foldable "nest" of supports that simply rest on it. Picture the vinyl roof attached permanently over the back and rolled inward into the space above the battery box (With a little folding). When you need it up, simply detach a couple of holding straps and unfold it directly over the roll bar. Unfold the additional bars that are already attached via velcro and rest this "Supports Nest" onto the roll bar. Attach the additional side fasteners and climb inside to connect things to the top of the windscreen. All done quickly without getting too wet.
Well we seem to be following each other Steve, great job, I'll have to go and check my brake lines now, pretty sure they are right but you have certainly started me thinking. I used drill bits in the bonnet hinges, same principle as you have used. Certainly looks the part and it's great to see you have personalised the car as you wanted it, just little subtle things that are really tasteful. My fuel tank arrived yesterday so that should go in next week and then heading for the big start up. Good luck going over the pits. Gas struts if you could remember, cheers.
nearly forgot the struts. I'll get all the details tomorrow and send it. Check out my facebook page for the build: facebook.com/groups/mgbrestore
Have posted info on the bonnet and boot struts to my build facebook page. If you have any probs, message me on messenger anytime.
Another trick for aligning the bonnet is to buy 2 of the lower rubber support blocks on the wing and place them towards the rear of the bonnet.
Works great for the alignment on my GT.
Thats a good idea!
The rubber support blocks are called "buffers", and cars through 1967 came with four, so your idea of adding two is not only a good one, its the way the factory did it early on. After '67 the seal at the rear of the opening extended around the corners to support the rear end of the bonnet, so I guess they felt that rear buffers were unnecessary.
The side marker/indicator lamps are on backwards!
Well yes technically - but they did ship some this way round. I like them like this as i feel the indicators are more visible from the front side angles.