At 04:10 as a side note: no matter if caliper slide pins are rusty or burred/nicked- it's *never* a good idea to sand or file them to "clean them up". They're usually plated to make sliding easier & corrosion free. Removing this coating will make them corrode *very quickly* after a few heat/cool cycles, and might change the temper and roundness of the slide! If they're that bad- just replace.
good tip on burning the air out of the rubber boot..ive done alot of brake jobs and never thought of that. petroleum base grease can also slowly eat away at the rubber boot.another reason to always use silicone base grease
This is a procedure I learned to do from a bad experience of every slide pin, bolt and anything metal to metal was seized. What a pain. Great tips Eric. Thanks.
Hi Eric, yes I done the job for 45 years, I must have breathed in a lot of brake dust, I made a point of turning my head away or going outside while it settled, I never did wear a mask, wasn't a thing we did in those days, worst thing was prob drum brakes, we used to blow them out with compressed air and fill the workshop up with dust, how bad is that for you, I would wander off for 15 minutes while it settled, try not to breath it in, in the old days it used to be asbestos, i'm happy to say at 65 I don't have any respitary problems, more by luck than judgement - from Fred in England.
Ive done my own readings about it, and no one really knows exactly how much asbestos is needed to contract mesothelioma or asbestosis. Many people like you are exposed to a lot of it and come out fine. Many others, though, do not make it. I strongly urge to always be mindful of any issues your lungs show. It takes somewhere from 10-40 years to show symptoms. I wish the absolute best.
Lol. I did the same thing when i worked in construction. I did demo so it was extremely dusty all the time. Tile dust, drywall dust, saw dust. Id literally be the only person with a mask, and the only whiteboy as well haha
Another great video. Your channel has become my go-to for figuring out my DIY car repair work. Thanks for cranking out the trustworthy and free information!
In the mid-west US after all the snow is gone and the weather warms as your driving around with a window cranked down you are bound to hear someone with noisy brakes. They need to watch this video and have this kind of maintenance performed even if there is plenty of pad left. Thanks Eric!
Thanks for Another great video Eric! You've given me a lot of information over the years to keep my vehicles on the road. On a side note, i saw Thunderhead289 wearing one of your t-shirts on one of his video's! Cool to see. Thanks again
i'm a car mechanic in iceland, as we have lots of salt on the roads, we see allot of rust on the brake system. very often i need to remove the thin stainless guides that the pads ride in to remove rust from underneath as they have started to clamp down on the pads so they dont move freely even tho the guides are clean inside. many mechanics here just grind a little bit of the steel on the pads but thats not how i roll.
I just recently serviced my own 2007 Honda Accord's brakes. In my case, one brake pad was screeching pretty early. When I removed the rear pads, one was unevenly worn. Upon further disassembly, it was revealed that one of the pins in the caliper bracket was stuck, which was the culprit for the uneven wear. I'm unaware if this is a common problem, per se, but certainly easy to check and worth looking at.
I would add opening the bleeder and compressing the caliper. It's good the keep the bleeder working, and I like to make sure my calipers aren't starting to seize.
Great Videos. I just watched your video on replacing rotors and pads. You said you preferred to have the metal indicator at the bottom of the leading edge. This video you recommended the clip to be on the top of the leading edge.
10 ปีที่แล้ว
cool good tips. the last brakes i did was for someone that drives us to work. i didnt think of the pins and didn't know that it uses silicon thing, so i'll add that for my future brake service work to keep them working good.
Wonderful! This was very useful I had my brakes apart earlier, But I did not lube the sliders But I did and the rust off the sliders and that seamed to free the brakes
i actually started taking the silicone brush and sticking that into the caliper pin hole instead of just smearing it on the pin. seems everytime i do that like 80% of it just gets pushed off when i try to slide it into the hole. also up in the midwest the caliper brackets rot so bad the pads are usually seized in them. end up having to beat the pads out with a hammer and wire wheel the heck out of the bracket so the new pads can actually fit in it. caliper pins do rot and get stuck sometimes but dont really see that a lot. gotta love salted roads
Doing pads on all 4's tomorrow.(Started making noise,probably about due anyways.) Just re-watched this video to brush up,and make sure I have everything.. Anti-seize,silicone paste,jack,jack-stands,tire iron,C-clamp,couple cans of brake cleaner spray,new ceramic pads,ratchet/sockets/etc.. Yep,think I'm good to go! Thanks Eric!
Hey Eric, Grease and silicon-paste will not only mix up and give a mess. But also grease will damage every oil-based rubber, cause most grease is oil-based too. Greetings Simmie86
Good job, Eric Good for vehicle winter prep esp. where you are at in the snow belt.. You should make a winter prep series in order to help keep your viewers rolling on through the white months... Keith
Thank you very much for this video. I have a 2017 Toyota Sienna, which was imported to Europe. I found the braking performance generally not so great. After changing the braking fluid, I combined the season tyre change with brake maintenance, like in your video. The rear brakes had never been serviced, the pads have some life left, but silicon grease was barely there anymore. The front brake had been replaced and I found they used regular grease instead of silicon grease. as you say this creates a mess! I also found that the inner side of disc on the passenger side was for about 1,5cm (half an inch) completely rusty. the pad itself was 'uneven'. so now i know where part of the not so great braking performance comes from. will be buying some new discs and pads soon in the front !!
Through experience I have found that anti seize on the pads doesn't last very long. The heat from the brakes melts it away. I switched to using synthetic brake Lube on slider pins and pads with better results.
Eric, you answered some questions in this video. Our 2006 Hyundai Tucson just had new brakes installed. The mechanic who helped me, [as I got out all the brake lub's] he said, you don't need all of that but it's not my 1st rodeo & at 62, I've done all my brake jobs but since my accident I've had mechanic's come by & help me out. This last one probably won't get a call back because I didn't buy all the grease, poly & all the other brake lubricants just to take up space on a shelf. Now after 5 day's my wife is killing me with, "I hear this", "I hear that". Since our daughter borrows that car, now she is sending me text's about the same stuff. So with that being said, if anyone out there is watching this video, there's a reason for all the brake lubricants. When in doubt, subscribe to Eric's channel because just like this one, he will explain what that stuff is for & may save your brakes & your marriage. Thank you for another great video Eric, I believe I'm going to go to your website because I have questions that I'll want to ask & I don't like asking questions about an issue when the video is about something else. Take care, Dan
good info. I understand where your coming from with putting the squealer at the top of the pad, but in my experience when the pads start to wear on an angle do to some component in the calipers sticking, it always seems like its the bottom part of the pad that's the thinnest, so for me I always put it to the bottom when I can when I do brakes that way if by some reason the caliper hangs up, and the pad wears on an angle it will give an indication something is wrong.
if the rubber O-ring is damaged, we can be sure there is rust on the brake piston. Before putting in new O-rings, make sure the piston is polished clean for proper functioning.
Hi, nice guide. I allso look under booth of the brake calibber piston, as they seam to rust very easylly. as the brake pads wear of and allso those caliber holders gets rust under those metall slide, that those breake pads slides on. So i clean under there too.
I'm replacing my shifter bushings with poly ones and some like the energy suspension ones come with bushing lubricant. since the main prob with the rubber bushings is that the petroleum in traditional lubes dry it out them out i was wondering if i can avoid using the bushing lubricant all together and use this 3m one instead?
Man, this is cool. got two questions. First can I use lithium based greases for lubricating sliding pins? and second the break pedal becomes very though when my speed is more than 60 km/h and one other thing when I'm on reverse the break fails to stop the car immediately. My car is toyota vitz 2001. Thanks man
Do a video on the same thing but fro drum brakes because my truck has them on all wheels and I learned the basics on replacing pads but still really have no idea about them for the most part.
Could you do a video on emergency/parking break repair? A lot of people are driving old cars with parking breaks that won't hold their car anymore. I've even heard that you shouldn't use your parking break on a used car if you don't know if it was used, for fear of it getting stuck on.
If you are in an area where the roads are dusty or salted this isn't somerthing that should wait until 30,000 miles, but be done yearly at the same time that you change the cabin filter :-D. If you detect that grease was used on the slide pins, remove the boots, clean out the bores, clean off the rubber dampers of the pins and INSIDE the boots. Grease with or without silicone lube mixed in it will make the pin rubber dampers and boot swell and can stop the pins from sliding freely. I compared a set of greased pin's rubber with 5 years exposure to a new set and could not believe how much the old rubber had swelled. Since then I install all new springs, abutment clips and caliper pin rubber, whenever I change brake pads.
I prefer to use the silicone based lube on the contact points for the pad as well. In my experience it seems to hold up better than the anti-seize and it's far less messy. I can't seem to use anti-seize without it magically getting everywhere. I also like to lube the pad where the caliper makes contact, both where the piston makes contact and the outboard pad whee the caliper wraps around.
Hello. Not sure if you have talked about this but does it matter if the slide pin with the dampener goes on the top or bottom of the caliper? I was applying silicone on my rear brake pins and one side had it on the leading (bottom) and the other had it on the top. I bought this 2016 KIA Soul with 50K miles and I’m pretty sure one side was installed incorrectly.
My brakes on my lexus GS350 has a problem where most of the time i feel its loose. I did change the front brake pads and im sure the rear has about 10k miles to go. I'm not sure whats the problem!!! I think i might have to change the brake fluids, can u do a DIY on that?
a lot of people say you should put copper paste or whatever anti seize paste on the back of the pads. Is that necessary? if so ..what is the purpose of that.
HELP: my brake inner brake pad moves on my passenger side (going over bumps it makes noise and when changing direction or even when releasing stress after a complete stop) -thanks
Can I use brushcutter gear grease to lubricate break pads? Buying a different chemical concoction for every little thing creates a build up of stuff in my garage.
Hi Eric, in replacing the brake pads for Honda, does the piston have to be retracted straight or you have to spin it while retracting. Thanks. By the way my car is a Honda City 1.5 (2013).
Man thanks a lot. Im driving a Honda Accord 99 and it squeaks so bad that when i drive i get embarrased. Especially when i reverse the screech oh god. But this video helped me a lot, taught me so much xD. Btw how much would a service cost? P.s. Live in Australia
Eric can you please clarify which caliper slide pin goes to the leading edge of the caliper. Also does OEM lubricate the ends of the brake pads? Thanks
Happy New Year. So I know this video is old and I watch a lot of your videos (you're great btw). Question though, regarding this video, why didn't you address the rotor? Shouldn't you check the rotor or clean it off or something right before changing to new pads?
Do new brake calipers come with pre-lubricated pins? I recently replaced both of mine (Centric brand) and the pins had some white grease substance. I left it on and added some of my lubricant (Permatex Silicone Ceramic). Now I’m a little concerned as to what that white grease substance was and of mixing them together.
My 2015 Odyssey with 12k miles with a shimmy in the steering wheel when breaks are applied. Dealer says breaks need to be cleaned up. What do you think Eric?
Hey Eric, I've been wanting to start doing my own brake service for a while now. When do you and when do you not have to push the piston back to its position? I noticed you did not do it in this video, but in another brake video you did have to return the piston. I will most likely just be doing pad replacement. Thanks
From what I know, you have to push in the pistons back into position when you replace the brakes. With new pads, there won't be enough space if the pistons are out.
I replaced my rotors and pads on my rear axle 1.5 yrs ago or so. And now the one side is squeaking (needs new pads?) and its worn a path in the rotor. Im replacing them this week, i just dont understand why the one side wore like that but not the other?
At 04:10 as a side note: no matter if caliper slide pins are rusty or burred/nicked- it's *never* a good idea to sand or file them to "clean them up". They're usually plated to make sliding easier & corrosion free. Removing this coating will make them corrode *very quickly* after a few heat/cool cycles, and might change the temper and roundness of the slide! If they're that bad- just replace.
good tip on burning the air out of the rubber boot..ive done alot of brake jobs and never thought of that. petroleum base grease can also slowly eat away at the rubber boot.another reason to always use silicone base grease
This is a procedure I learned to do from a bad experience of every slide pin, bolt and anything metal to metal was seized. What a pain.
Great tips Eric. Thanks.
Hi Eric, yes I done the job for 45 years, I must have breathed in a lot of brake dust, I made a point of turning my head away or going outside while it settled, I never did wear a mask, wasn't a thing we did in those days, worst thing was prob drum brakes, we used to blow them out with compressed air and fill the workshop up with dust, how bad is that for you, I would wander off for 15 minutes while it settled, try not to breath it in, in the old days it used to be asbestos, i'm happy to say at 65 I don't have any respitary problems, more by luck than judgement - from Fred in England.
england? you w0t m8?
Papakap22 - Haha, nice one. Greetings from England, mate. Are you enjoying Eric the Car Guy videos too? ... :-)
England is my city
Ive done my own readings about it, and no one really knows exactly how much asbestos is needed to contract mesothelioma or asbestosis.
Many people like you are exposed to a lot of it and come out fine. Many others, though, do not make it. I strongly urge to always be mindful of any issues your lungs show. It takes somewhere from 10-40 years to show symptoms.
I wish the absolute best.
Lol. I did the same thing when i worked in construction. I did demo so it was extremely dusty all the time. Tile dust, drywall dust, saw dust. Id literally be the only person with a mask, and the only whiteboy as well haha
Another great video. Your channel has become my go-to for figuring out my DIY car repair work. Thanks for cranking out the trustworthy and free information!
In the mid-west US after all the snow is gone and the weather warms as your driving around with a window cranked down you are bound to hear someone with noisy brakes.
They need to watch this video and have this kind of maintenance performed even if there is plenty of pad left. Thanks Eric!
Doing a brake job has always been a HUGE black box!! You make the process so easy!! Thank you!!!!
Ive been binge watching you all weekend Eric. Great stuff. Thanks for the videos.
Me to, then I have to go out and buy some tools that I'll never use.
So glad I found this video. About to do my first brake job tomorrow and I was confused about the lubrication process. Thanks, Eric!
Thanks for Another great video Eric! You've given me a lot of information over the years to keep my vehicles on the road. On a side note, i saw Thunderhead289 wearing one of your t-shirts on one of his video's! Cool to see. Thanks again
I've done brakes on multiple cars before, yet this was still very helpful. Thanks!
i'm a car mechanic in iceland, as we have lots of salt on the roads, we see allot of rust on the brake system. very often i need to remove the thin stainless guides that the pads ride in to remove rust from underneath as they have started to clamp down on the pads so they dont move freely even tho the guides are clean inside. many mechanics here just grind a little bit of the steel on the pads but thats not how i roll.
Interesting ✌hello from England 🇬🇧
Great information here. This service usually costs anywhere from $99 - $150 at dealers around here.
I just recently serviced my own 2007 Honda Accord's brakes. In my case, one brake pad was screeching pretty early. When I removed the rear pads, one was unevenly worn. Upon further disassembly, it was revealed that one of the pins in the caliper bracket was stuck, which was the culprit for the uneven wear. I'm unaware if this is a common problem, per se, but certainly easy to check and worth looking at.
I would add opening the bleeder and compressing the caliper. It's good the keep the bleeder working, and I like to make sure my calipers aren't starting to seize.
Great Videos. I just watched your video on replacing rotors and pads. You said you preferred to have the metal indicator at the bottom of the leading edge. This video you recommended the clip to be on the top of the leading edge.
cool good tips. the last brakes i did was for someone that drives us to work. i didnt think of the pins and didn't know that it uses silicon thing, so i'll add that for my future brake service work to keep them working good.
Wonderful! This was very useful I had my brakes apart earlier, But I did not lube the sliders But I did and the rust off the sliders and that seamed to free the brakes
Best video on Caliper maintenance so far loved it
i actually started taking the silicone brush and sticking that into the caliper pin hole instead of just smearing it on the pin. seems everytime i do that like 80% of it just gets pushed off when i try to slide it into the hole. also up in the midwest the caliper brackets rot so bad the pads are usually seized in them. end up having to beat the pads out with a hammer and wire wheel the heck out of the bracket so the new pads can actually fit in it. caliper pins do rot and get stuck sometimes but dont really see that a lot. gotta love salted roads
easy I got my first ASE test on brake servicing soon feeling confident on this.
Eric i have been a long time fan of your videos but we need more heavy duty repair videos like the old times ;)
Doing pads on all 4's tomorrow.(Started making noise,probably about due anyways.) Just re-watched this video to brush up,and make sure I have everything.. Anti-seize,silicone paste,jack,jack-stands,tire iron,C-clamp,couple cans of brake cleaner spray,new ceramic pads,ratchet/sockets/etc.. Yep,think I'm good to go! Thanks Eric!
Hey Eric,
Grease and silicon-paste will not only mix up and give a mess. But also
grease will damage every oil-based rubber, cause most grease is oil-based too.
Greetings
Simmie86
We’ll you’re THE man!! Thanks for posting this, quality video, well done man.
Good job, Eric Good for vehicle winter prep esp. where you are at in the snow belt..
You should make a winter prep series in order to help keep your viewers rolling on through the white months... Keith
I actually did a video on winter prep last year. Lots of viewers have made some good suggestions since then however. Thanks for the suggestion.
Thank you very much for this video. I have a 2017 Toyota Sienna, which was imported to Europe. I found the braking performance generally not so great. After changing the braking fluid, I combined the season tyre change with brake maintenance, like in your video. The rear brakes had never been serviced, the pads have some life left, but silicon grease was barely there anymore. The front brake had been replaced and I found they used regular grease instead of silicon grease. as you say this creates a mess!
I also found that the inner side of disc on the passenger side was for about 1,5cm (half an inch) completely rusty. the pad itself was 'uneven'. so now i know where part of the not so great braking performance comes from. will be buying some new discs and pads soon in the front !!
Good job Eric thanks I never new where the indicator went and lots of good stuff
Through experience I have found that anti seize on the pads doesn't last very long. The heat from the brakes melts it away. I switched to using synthetic brake Lube on slider pins and pads with better results.
I had to show my BF this tutorial...when he does brake pads he practically disassembles the whole front end ...Lol
I did that for my headlights once, felt like a jackass after.
Thanks for the tips Eric, I just put it on my to-do list.
Young Honda tech Eric. Greek sandals & stubborn drive to educate.
My go to Sensei.
Eric, you answered some questions in this video. Our 2006 Hyundai Tucson just had new brakes installed. The mechanic who helped me, [as I got out all the brake lub's] he said, you don't need all of that but it's not my 1st rodeo & at 62, I've done all my brake jobs but since my accident I've had mechanic's come by & help me out. This last one probably won't get a call back because I didn't buy all the grease, poly & all the other brake lubricants just to take up space on a shelf. Now after 5 day's my wife is killing me with, "I hear this", "I hear that". Since our daughter borrows that car, now she is sending me text's about the same stuff. So with that being said, if anyone out there is watching this video, there's a reason for all the brake lubricants. When in doubt, subscribe to Eric's channel because just like this one, he will explain what that stuff is for & may save your brakes & your marriage. Thank you for another great video Eric, I believe I'm going to go to your website because I have questions that I'll want to ask & I don't like asking questions about an issue when the video is about something else. Take care, Dan
Daniel Jenn dope
Eric's channel has become my GoTo for information on car service ... even the vids where he is sporting a Mullet 😀
very professionally done... nice one Eric!!
Thank you! You are a plethora of awesome information!
good info. I understand where your coming from with putting the squealer at the top of the pad, but in my experience when the pads start to wear on an angle do to some component in the calipers sticking, it always seems like its the bottom part of the pad that's the thinnest, so for me I always put it to the bottom when I can when I do brakes that way if by some reason the caliper hangs up, and the pad wears on an angle it will give an indication something is wrong.
Eric's hair grows back really fast XD Good video.
Very educational video, I enjoyed my learning experience!
Cool. I'm glad I subscribed! I'll give this a try! Thanks man!
Great information, thanks, Eric.
I always push the caliper piston back in and inspect the rubber boot around it, also a good idea to put a $10 hardware kit in.
if the rubber O-ring is damaged, we can be sure there is rust on the brake piston. Before putting in new O-rings, make sure the piston is polished clean for proper functioning.
Thanks your video are very useful. Thanks for doing this ! From Québec, Canada
You don't have to tighten the top caliper pin bolt? Or is it easily able to spin because of the slider pin?
Hi, nice guide. I allso look under booth of the brake calibber piston, as they seam to rust very easylly. as the brake pads wear of and allso those caliber holders gets rust under those metall slide, that those breake pads slides on. So i clean under there too.
A good old brake job.... Love it
I'm replacing my shifter bushings with poly ones and some like the energy suspension ones come with bushing lubricant. since the main prob with the rubber bushings is that the petroleum in traditional lubes dry it out them out i was wondering if i can avoid using the bushing lubricant all together and use this 3m one instead?
thanks for the great vid! do you put any grease on where the piston contacts the back of the pad?
Very good. thanks for making this. Cheers
Needed this video thank you very much!
thanks for the great tips! i will be trying that in a few weeks :)
Man, this is cool. got two questions. First can I use lithium based greases for lubricating sliding pins? and second the break pedal becomes very though when my speed is more than 60 km/h and one other thing when I'm on reverse the break fails to stop the car immediately. My car is toyota vitz 2001. Thanks man
good idea to measure rotor disc thickness while doing it
As always....great video
Do a video on the same thing but fro drum brakes because my truck has them on all wheels and I learned the basics on replacing pads but still really have no idea about them for the most part.
dont take apart more than one side at a time.
Could you do a video on emergency/parking break repair? A lot of people are driving old cars with parking breaks that won't hold their car anymore. I've even heard that you shouldn't use your parking break on a used car if you don't know if it was used, for fear of it getting stuck on.
Thank you for the video, really appreciate you!
very nice info. Thanks so much!
The hardest part when changing brakes is which pads to buy, so many great pads to choose from!
I always go to Napa and ask for the cheapest ceramic pads. Never any issues. Then I don't have to think about it.
That anti seize looks a lot like the lube seen on new Glock slides. Good vid!!
OUTSTANDING INFO!!!
This went beyond my education!!
Thank you!!
If you are in an area where the roads are dusty or salted this isn't somerthing that should wait until 30,000 miles, but be done yearly at the same time that you change the cabin filter :-D.
If you detect that grease was used on the slide pins, remove the boots, clean out the bores, clean off the rubber dampers of the pins and INSIDE the boots. Grease with or without silicone lube mixed in it will make the pin rubber dampers and boot swell and can stop the pins from sliding freely. I compared a set of greased pin's rubber with 5 years exposure to a new set and could not believe how much the old rubber had swelled.
Since then I install all new springs, abutment clips and caliper pin rubber, whenever I change brake pads.
P Schmied the pins dont slide. Ghey are stationary. The caliper ridrs on them so the bushong foesnt matter
Thanks Eric once again you put the T in Tech :)
Learned a few things here thank you
thnx Eric ... Realy You are the Best
Watching this guy's videos is not a bad idea. 😁
You are awesome. Thanks for the help.
I prefer to use the silicone based lube on the contact points for the pad as well. In my experience it seems to hold up better than the anti-seize and it's far less messy. I can't seem to use anti-seize without it magically getting everywhere. I also like to lube the pad where the caliper makes contact, both where the piston makes contact and the outboard pad whee the caliper wraps around.
Hi Eric>>can you do a disc brake video on cutlass ciera or chavy celebrity...and thanks for your amazing videos
Hello. Not sure if you have talked about this but does it matter if the slide pin with the dampener goes on the top or bottom of the caliper? I was applying silicone on my rear brake pins and one side had it on the leading (bottom) and the other had it on the top. I bought this 2016 KIA Soul with 50K miles and I’m pretty sure one side was installed incorrectly.
Thanks! Regards from Argentina
Great video
Hey bro, where's the best place to get a service manual and what's the best ogb2 scanner to get and where l?
My brakes on my lexus GS350 has a problem where most of the time i feel its loose. I did change the front brake pads and im sure the rear has about 10k miles to go. I'm not sure whats the problem!!! I think i might have to change the brake fluids, can u do a DIY on that?
a lot of people say you should put copper paste or whatever anti seize paste on the back of the pads. Is that necessary? if so ..what is the purpose of that.
Wish the SLK230 front brakes I just did, were this easy to work on lol
HELP:
my brake inner brake pad moves on my passenger side (going over bumps it makes noise and when changing direction or even when releasing stress after a complete stop) -thanks
Great video 🙂👍
Can I use brushcutter gear grease to lubricate break pads? Buying a different chemical concoction for every little thing creates a build up of stuff in my garage.
can i use anti-seize ie CRC copper anti-seize compound, or any brand that dose not mention for brake lube.
Hi Eric, in replacing the brake pads for Honda, does the piston have to be retracted straight or you have to spin it while retracting. Thanks. By the way my car is a Honda City 1.5 (2013).
Man thanks a lot. Im driving a Honda Accord 99 and it squeaks so bad that when i drive i get embarrased. Especially when i reverse the screech oh god. But this video helped me a lot, taught me so much xD. Btw how much would a service cost?
P.s. Live in Australia
What about using anti seize on the sliders? I've done that a couple times
Hey Eric, can you please recommend a cost-effective wheel torque wrench for removing and installing tires? Thanks.
Hi Eric. Can i use permatex dielectric grease to lubricate guide pins?
Great info!!
Eric can you please clarify which caliper slide pin goes to the leading edge of the caliper. Also does OEM lubricate the ends of the brake pads? Thanks
thanks bro, good stuff
Thankyou! What about the rear calipers?
Happy New Year. So I know this video is old and I watch a lot of your videos (you're great btw). Question though, regarding this video, why didn't you address the rotor? Shouldn't you check the rotor or clean it off or something right before changing to new pads?
Do new brake calipers come with pre-lubricated pins? I recently replaced both of mine (Centric brand) and the pins had some white grease substance. I left it on and added some of my lubricant (Permatex Silicone Ceramic). Now I’m a little concerned as to what that white grease substance was and of mixing them together.
you the man eric
Red rubber grease can also be used on the slide pins right?
Thanks for sharing!
I did this and my car no longer pulses and squeaks when braking. I gave the video a like.
My 2015 Odyssey with 12k miles with a shimmy in the steering wheel when breaks are applied. Dealer says breaks need to be cleaned up. What do you think Eric?
Very helpful thank you
hey is copper coat an acceptable anti seize for brake use?
Hey Eric, I've been wanting to start doing my own brake service for a while now. When do you and when do you not have to push the piston back to its position? I noticed you did not do it in this video, but in another brake video you did have to return the piston. I will most likely just be doing pad replacement. Thanks
From what I know, you have to push in the pistons back into position when you replace the brakes. With new pads, there won't be enough space if the pistons are out.
I replaced my rotors and pads on my rear axle 1.5 yrs ago or so. And now the one side is squeaking (needs new pads?) and its worn a path in the rotor. Im replacing them this week, i just dont understand why the one side wore like that but not the other?