Yo wassup Chris this is jonjon again message you about the flywheel aswell in a long paragraph if your crank sensor under you transmission I’d bad change it but other wise check the pins on the crank sensor harness and the harness to you crank sensor. Remember that harness is close to your exhaust so double check that harness making sure the wires aren’t melted or open wire and it’s not grounding. Bcuz if it’s telling you crank sensor then it’s not reading the timing on the flywheel so double check that.
If it's throwing crank or cam sensor codes it could be either a faulty sensor that's been fitted or the cam chain could possibly be stretched due to all of the drifting. the sensors would then be detecting that the engine is slightly out of time and would then stop the engine from running under dangerous conditions, limp mode ect
Yea, you're right man, cam and crank sensor codes simultaneously is usually a sign of timing issue. Very unlikely both sensors are bad. If Rudnik had any diag skills, rather than passing off his problem cars to his friends, the car would have been fixed months ago
"don't want to bore you guys" is Matt's biggest misunderstanding about TH-cam! Not your fault for nerding out about saabs but man I was kinda excited to learn about this place. Sounds sick though!
Bought a oil dip stick for my Saab from the warehouse in Sweden. Said it be 4-6 weeks for it come in. Waited 8 weeks, and ended up getting my money back, and got one from a fellow saab owner lol. I love the car, but when things break it worries me about finding a replacement part lol.
If not replaced yet, check the TPS percentage on an OBDII scanner and make sure it's reading correctly. (car doesn't need to be running just ignition on)
Seeing how the wires on that cable were a bit chewed up, I'd be looking at rerouting that wire/cable. It might be getting pinched or squished on the seat rails. Doesn't make sense you were able to leave it running when you went to O'Rileys and no limp mode, then you drive it the next day and its in Limp Mode, I'd check that wiring under the seat.
Pull the timing cover on the Z and replace the oil galley gaskets. I chased the same limp mode problem for months. I replaced damn near every sensor and still had the same issue. After I replaced the oil galley gaskets it ran perfect. seriously look into it.
It's more likely your whole wiring harness needs to be replaced as you seem to have intermittent problems all the time with that car and having a bad ground or any wires that send certain type of signals can cause serious problems that can take forever the figure out just replace the harness entirely would be the cheapest easiest route
Chris!. My guess is it's ur flywheel. I know u replace it and I know u changed it again. I have had the same flywheel. There's something up with them. They come Alittle bent. Teeth or bent. Or it's the metal they use .. something idk exactly but I change my flywheel n it's running til this day. Mine would run great for a day or two then be crap for a day or 2. I would say it's that or someone pinched the cps wire between the bell housing
499hp/527nm 1.7bar holset hx40 saab 9000 as my daily. Stock internals besides volvo stiffer valve springs. Overall budget under 3k$, car was free. Try to beat that. Saab’s are the thing.
If your that attached to it, it be smarter to just LS swap it than spend several thousand dollars to stay Saab, I mean if it makes you feel better get an LS out the Saab version of the trailblazer. 🙃🙃🙃
Man the title got me, I assumed he was gonna sell it, but then thinking about it Matt loves his Saab's so that would be backwards for him to sell it and having the tattoo too :p Would love to see this thing hitting again!
Matt needs to look up some swedish SAABs the 9⁵ is budget tuner heaven. Honestly with a 3grand engine should be able to hang with the colerado from a roll.
He could just put the LS in, it's already set up to drift. But yeah he should replace the harness or cut open and insect the old one, probably a pinched wire or something unexpected like a connector pin.
chris its gotta be a crash sensor or something that is causing it to just go to limp, if not then i would grab a bottle and look up how much the fuel pump is supposed to put out in a 30 sec interval and then judge to see if the pump is actually sending the right amount of fuel to the engine
@@hitmixhyepock9405 yeah idk what hes thinking... even a junkyard 200k mile b207r would be a fun time compared to the shit he puts himself through for saab cred
Yes I came here looking for this comment. Matt just do a lsj-t swap. Mines running 380hp all day on a fun daily tune and it can make 450 easily if I wanted to.
And you can make the cluster working with the terminator you just need to give the speed sensor end on the cluster to the speed sensor on the Holley same with rpm. Rpm is dependent on crank for ls so get it from there for the cluster and bobs your uncle
@@wrighrw2 you’d think but when people who don’t know things about wiring other than it’s plug and play and and we’ll they say you can’t you can in this case it’s merging two wires with two input feed two wires going to too different wires literalally a jumper wire
Honestly by this point the 370 do a timing chain kit replace all the sensors with genuine items continuity test the wiring to ecu and it’ll sort it for sure
Dude I hit you up on Instagram and told you that I'd help fix that's saab.... They're the most easiest cars to fix and the easiest cars to tune. Easiest ecu's to unlock. It's a T7 ECU that has self learning..... How could you possibly not be unmotivated to work on something like that when you have a full shop????
I had a friend that had kinda the same issue with his 370z. Try disconnecting the battery let it sit for a little bit and reconnect it. And see if the vehicle starts. You might have a faulty PCM( power train control module) or it needs and update. Which the dealer is the only way to update it. The PCM could have an internal processor fault.
Man all my years working on my junk saab, The issues with your z is related to the crank position sensor. Most likely the wires are melted causing an arc and or a bad connection. I've also had crank sensors come bad from the get go. You should be able to test the ohms of the sensor with a meter. While its running you should lift it up and check voltages to the plug
My buddy had a truck kept going into limp mode replaced every sensor on it and he gave up on it went in the building one day to see if he could find something and a wire was barley shorting out on the oil filter so I’d say u just have a wire shorting somewhere
Im From the uk and we have the saab b204 engine they go up to 500 stock bottom end or fully built up to 1000bhp love for chris to come here and go in a 500bhp one and he would change his mind about saabs and the 350z are slow af 😅
Chris i bet the issue with the Z is a wiring issue, you need an auto electrician to go over it and check for resistance or loss of voltage or no continuity etc, check for water damage or fire damage. Or just change the whole wiring harness for a known good 1
What is that vq out of? Smooth good power. Good weight ratio, so it will have that smooth feel. Switch ecu just to see. You've changed everything else.
I feel these issues only started when you done the engine swap being a infiniti engine the ecu might have same differences. (I might be completely wrong)
Maybe check the knock sensor if it's been over heated with the knock sensor thats in it could have swelled up an puffed out idk it may be worth just pulling it out to look an see
Number one fraz that you said. What can it be! Why would you ask others when you and you( team) had all hans on. Hey everyone we jacked a car up. Dm for a great deal
Yo chris remember when you did the burnout in the z and it prettymuch exploded when it dies try to unscrew the gascap and see if it pulls air it alsmost seems like its pulling a vacume in gastank mabey the evap said bye bye because the gas vapours exploded when you did the burnout
Correct me if im wrong but arent the explorer rear ends offset to one side? The center section i mean. Rangers center sections are centered. With the explorer rear diffs u are more lilely to get an lsd and disc brakes tho
Why not try to find a cobalt ss 2005/07 supercharged, just swap the intake/exhaust stuff over to keep your turbo, pretty sure that’s what guys are doing with the saab 2.0 when they blow up there cobalts
At this point I am almost 95% positive the 370Z either has a short in the wiring to the ECU or the ECU is shorting out or has water damage. The inconsistency with starting, the no limp mode until the throttle is pushed and the vehicle moves. I'm leading to believe that you should try to swap out the ECU for a known good one
I still think it might be ecu related on the z bro .... but can't say to be sure but if u replaced all else then there ain't but so much more electronics left to go throu 😅.. any ways guys peace and love keep it radical stay safe and build on.. l8z famz and keep having fun
Not at all. Trevor likes the newer 9-3's and those things have shit ECU'S and weak ass rods. He also like to mess with this crappy V6 engines that have 3 cylinders powering the turbo.... Once GM got their hands on Saab, the quality went to shit. 9-3's past 04 suck major sack of baby dick.
I wish you guys would have got all the motor parts and built a motor fpr matts saab. Would of made a few good videos and it would have been a good learning experience for both of you.
Yo wassup Chris this is jonjon again message you about the flywheel aswell in a long paragraph if your crank sensor under you transmission I’d bad change it but other wise check the pins on the crank sensor harness and the harness to you crank sensor. Remember that harness is close to your exhaust so double check that harness making sure the wires aren’t melted or open wire and it’s not grounding. Bcuz if it’s telling you crank sensor then it’s not reading the timing on the flywheel so double check that.
Glad to see you getting the Saab fixed buddy. Don’t let anyone ever bully you out of keeping a car you love. You’ll miss it forever.
The reason the Colorado feels slow is Rudnik is the exhaust and the rear end you definitely need some shorter gears to feel all the torque !
🤞🏼 it isn't the clutch slipping
If it's throwing crank or cam sensor codes it could be either a faulty sensor that's been fitted or the cam chain could possibly be stretched due to all of the drifting. the sensors would then be detecting that the engine is slightly out of time and would then stop the engine from running under dangerous conditions, limp mode ect
Or get the timing checked mabe 🤷.
Sorry just trying to give suggestions
Yea, you're right man, cam and crank sensor codes simultaneously is usually a sign of timing issue. Very unlikely both sensors are bad. If Rudnik had any diag skills, rather than passing off his problem cars to his friends, the car would have been fixed months ago
x is a piece of junk Jz swap it and it’ll never have a problem again
chris on vq's knock sensor under the intake manifold dosent throw a cel or a code when bad but goes into limp more
if he didnt mention that hes replaced 99% of the sensors on that thing, I'd have more hope for this solution lol
@@andyboi8283 it's the last one you'll want to replace on. a vq 😂 and a bitch to get to so maybe he hasn't done it yet because it doesn't throw a code
We all know that just because it's a new part doesn't mean it's a good part. Even from the dealer.
@@aaronm6710 facs
At this point, he needs to stop throwing sensors at it and start looking at the wiring and PCM.
"don't want to bore you guys" is Matt's biggest misunderstanding about TH-cam! Not your fault for nerding out about saabs but man I was kinda excited to learn about this place. Sounds sick though!
I swear the truck more of Matt’s then Chris’s lol 😂
Saab was to hard for Matt rare parts and not much aftermarket the bmw was fun to watch Matt enjoy working on.
He needs a Mercedes with an om606 😂
Bought a oil dip stick for my Saab from the warehouse in Sweden. Said it be 4-6 weeks for it come in. Waited 8 weeks, and ended up getting my money back, and got one from a fellow saab owner lol. I love the car, but when things break it worries me about finding a replacement part lol.
@@durkaburd94my advice is to get ahead of future problems and put the parts on your own shelf for the day you need it.
If not replaced yet, check the TPS percentage on an OBDII scanner and make sure it's reading correctly. (car doesn't need to be running just ignition on)
I would definitely check continuity with a multimeter on the 370Z crank/cam sensor plugs. Hopefully Matt gets the Saab sorted. Pretty cool car.
I have 3 Saabs right now and I’m glad your keeping it. There is the option to get a 9-3 2.8t wagon with the 6 speed.
Check the crank sensor replace or clean it on the 370z, also maybe clean the plugs of the sensors with some electrical cleaning spray, good luck.
He did that already, both sensors you have to change
Check your pedal position on live data. Put on live graph
I was hoping he sold it or junked it lmao sorry Matt you deserve better. It’s not the saab
He’s got sentimental value in it. Have you ever loved something so much you didn’t want to let it go?? Even if it makes no sense?? That’s LOVE
@@TheReaper42069 we will see about that….. Saabs are still…. SAABS
When I think Saab I think of the a-9 or whatever it is that uses the same ej20 wrx motor 😅
@@ThePattonboy1239-2x
Seeing how the wires on that cable were a bit chewed up, I'd be looking at rerouting that wire/cable. It might be getting pinched or squished on the seat rails. Doesn't make sense you were able to leave it running when you went to O'Rileys and no limp mode, then you drive it the next day and its in Limp Mode, I'd check that wiring under the seat.
Pull the timing cover on the Z and replace the oil galley gaskets. I chased the same limp mode problem for months. I replaced damn near every sensor and still had the same issue. After I replaced the oil galley gaskets it ran perfect. seriously look into it.
I'm glad you're getting the Saab fixed. My first car was a 9-3 hatch and I miss it
It's more likely your whole wiring harness needs to be replaced as you seem to have intermittent problems all the time with that car and having a bad ground or any wires that send certain type of signals can cause serious problems that can take forever the figure out just replace the harness entirely would be the cheapest easiest route
Rodknock's Junk shop needs some diagnostic software/hardware for the laptop to log these cars and quit guessing at things...
Chris!. My guess is it's ur flywheel. I know u replace it and I know u changed it again. I have had the same flywheel. There's something up with them. They come Alittle bent. Teeth or bent. Or it's the metal they use .. something idk exactly but I change my flywheel n it's running til this day. Mine would run great for a day or two then be crap for a day or 2. I would say it's that or someone pinched the cps wire between the bell housing
Will got storage insurance for the 135 so he could get an extra cart each month
Matt's free uber 👀 MVP should have his own work vehicle supplied 💯
He is not humble the way he talks to nat and Matt 😢
The harness is shorting out somewhere and screwing the sensors.
He needs to inspect that harness and connectors carefully or just replace it.
499hp/527nm 1.7bar holset hx40 saab 9000 as my daily. Stock internals besides volvo stiffer valve springs. Overall budget under 3k$, car was free. Try to beat that. Saab’s are the thing.
If your that attached to it, it be smarter to just LS swap it than spend several thousand dollars to stay Saab, I mean if it makes you feel better get an LS out the Saab version of the trailblazer. 🙃🙃🙃
that would be way to much work
it has an ecotec in it lol its not expensive at all. plus that block is good for 500whp stock lol just gotta get the right people working on it.
😂😂😂 like ls is not expensive🤣
Spoken like a true 12 year old. You know how much of a nightmare it would be to LS swap a FWD Saab?
You can get a fwd ls..... Ls4
Whats up with the s2k still in the background hmm sounds scammy
Was it a giveaway
@@SubieNubie1528supposed to be
That will be a good race to see !! M2 vs Colorado
Let’s talk about Matt paying $300 a month for rent lol don’t even leave Matt you’ll never pay less
Does he still live in Wills basement ?? Lmao
@@TheReaper42069 lol I think he does yeah. He’s waiting for Chris to buy a house lol
Man the title got me, I assumed he was gonna sell it, but then thinking about it Matt loves his Saab's so that would be backwards for him to sell it and having the tattoo too :p
Would love to see this thing hitting again!
now clean up the inside of the Colorado and make the clusters work and interior back together
Matt needs to look up some swedish SAABs the 9⁵ is budget tuner heaven. Honestly with a 3grand engine should be able to hang with the colerado from a roll.
Either do full chassis harness or sell the z as a rolling chassis
He could just put the LS in, it's already set up to drift. But yeah he should replace the harness or cut open and insect the old one, probably a pinched wire or something unexpected like a connector pin.
Can't wait for it to be back and running better than ever 💪
Check the fuse box for erosion and replace the fuel pump relay
Definitely a good idea.
chris its gotta be a crash sensor or something that is causing it to just go to limp, if not then i would grab a bottle and look up how much the fuel pump is supposed to put out in a 30 sec interval and then judge to see if the pump is actually sending the right amount of fuel to the engine
should’ve got an lsj matt i’ll continue preaching it
Facts....an lsj with a turbo kit could make 400 all day. Plus it would be simple compared to an lnf or ldk/lhu swap.
@@hitmixhyepock9405 yeah idk what hes thinking... even a junkyard 200k mile b207r would be a fun time compared to the shit he puts himself through for saab cred
Yes I came here looking for this comment. Matt just do a lsj-t swap. Mines running 380hp all day on a fun daily tune and it can make 450 easily if I wanted to.
cut outs are a good solution for the exhaust
Saab conversions are big in the uk as it's a gm product. We put them in hot hatchbacks. B204 is the one!
“Next adventure” see you guys down under can’t wait to see ruddy in the green machine again!
And you can make the cluster working with the terminator you just need to give the speed sensor end on the cluster to the speed sensor on the Holley same with rpm. Rpm is dependent on crank for ls so get it from there for the cluster and bobs your uncle
exactly you'd think the dyno tuner he uses would point that out to him?
@@wrighrw2 you’d think but when people who don’t know things about wiring other than it’s plug and play and and we’ll they say you can’t you can in this case it’s merging two wires with two input feed two wires going to too different wires literalally a jumper wire
Honestly by this point the 370 do a timing chain kit replace all the sensors with genuine items continuity test the wiring to ecu and it’ll sort it for sure
The car ran good till you got in it. Maybe the seat rail is pinching a wire. Because it ran great till you got in it
True or the fuel pump is failing and might be too weak to work under load.
Dude I hit you up on Instagram and told you that I'd help fix that's saab.... They're the most easiest cars to fix and the easiest cars to tune. Easiest ecu's to unlock. It's a T7 ECU that has self learning..... How could you possibly not be unmotivated to work on something like that when you have a full shop????
I had a friend that had kinda the same issue with his 370z. Try disconnecting the battery let it sit for a little bit and reconnect it. And see if the vehicle starts. You might have a faulty PCM( power train control module) or it needs and update. Which the dealer is the only way to update it. The PCM could have an internal processor fault.
dont know if done but maybe want to look into the cam solenoid and cam phaser could be plugged with dirty oil
Idk what Matt plans on doing with his "440 hp" if he's leaving the stock trans/diff.
It'll hold a while, just dont miss shift 2nd to 3rd, been there, done that in 400 hp Saabs 😂
Man all my years working on my junk saab, The issues with your z is related to the crank position sensor. Most likely the wires are melted causing an arc and or a bad connection. I've also had crank sensors come bad from the get go. You should be able to test the ohms of the sensor with a meter. While its running you should lift it up and check voltages to the plug
My buddy had a truck kept going into limp mode replaced every sensor on it and he gave up on it went in the building one day to see if he could find something and a wire was barley shorting out on the oil filter so I’d say u just have a wire shorting somewhere
Make sure you do the rear end swap before building an exhaust because you’ll probably end up having to modify it after anyway
Can’t stop laughing at “it’s a 15 thousand dollar car” when running!
Im From the uk and we have the saab b204 engine they go up to 500 stock bottom end or fully built up to 1000bhp love for chris to come here and go in a 500bhp one and he would change his mind about saabs and the 350z are slow af 😅
Chris i bet the issue with the Z is a wiring issue, you need an auto electrician to go over it and check for resistance or loss of voltage or no continuity etc, check for water damage or fire damage. Or just change the whole wiring harness for a known good 1
The Colorado should Get Boom Tubes!
dude put an exhaust on that thing stop f---king around
Just take it off!!!
Hire a real Technician to look at your car. Simple
What is that vq out of? Smooth good power. Good weight ratio, so it will have that smooth feel. Switch ecu just to see. You've changed everything else.
I feel these issues only started when you done the engine swap being a infiniti engine the ecu might have same differences. (I might be completely wrong)
I would honestly check all over for Pre Maf intake leaks
Check and make sure the return and feed aren’t swapped at the fuel pump
I literally just copped a saab 2 weeks ago, may it be sold and given to a good home brodie.
Close...close is a lingerie store without a front window. Theres a reason people swap chevy engines into stuff since the 50s
Maybe check the knock sensor if it's been over heated with the knock sensor thats in it could have swelled up an puffed out idk it may be worth just pulling it out to look an see
As long as Rudnick has the green 370z he has content cuz hes never gonna get that bag of problems ironed out.
Number one fraz that you said. What can it be! Why would you ask others when you and you( team) had all hans on. Hey everyone we jacked a car up. Dm for a great deal
Why dont you get a smaller filter and clock the intake downward? Or just run the intake filter directly out of manifold
I can't wait to see what actually fixes it
Yo chris remember when you did the burnout in the z and it prettymuch exploded when it dies try to unscrew the gascap and see if it pulls air it alsmost seems like its pulling a vacume in gastank mabey the evap said bye bye because the gas vapours exploded when you did the burnout
“My Miata feels quicker” bro who’s this dude ☠️
that dudes a fucking idiot and i hope chris doesnt let his opinon matter
I legit laughed at that shit
Probably does cuz it’s clapped, clapped cars seem to feel like your goin mach Jesus cuz they’re about to fall apart 😂
@@wyattwalker0249I get that,but it’s an LS swapped truck come on…
@@skynet1.044 nah bro, I 100% agree with you lol. Dw
fund matt's engine damnit
I have a suspicion that you may have a leaky capacitor in the Ecu.. its a common problem with Japanese cars.
I would take a good look at the wiring harness as it does seem suspect.
Correct me if im wrong but arent the explorer rear ends offset to one side? The center section i mean. Rangers center sections are centered. With the explorer rear diffs u are more lilely to get an lsd and disc brakes tho
Why not try to find a cobalt ss 2005/07 supercharged, just swap the intake/exhaust stuff over to keep your turbo, pretty sure that’s what guys are doing with the saab 2.0 when they blow up there cobalts
Matt’s Saab isn’t beating anything in that parking lot😂
Check the gallery gasket and timing chain guides that will cause an issue too
Ur close to PA, just have scannerdanner diagnose it. Bet he could figure it out it half an hour.
i wonder if when yall changed the engine, if it caused an issue with the ecu?
Throw a 3in x pipe and spintech mufflers on the Colorado it will sound great
Chris ain't doing no four link himself ... I gotta see this
THE Z FROM HELL!
Uncurse it with the LS.
Sounds like the Z is grounding out the harness somewhere. Same thing that happened to my S14
have changed the ecu. sounds like it could be the issue
*please check the maf on the Z*
At this point I am almost 95% positive the 370Z either has a short in the wiring to the ECU or the ECU is shorting out or has water damage. The inconsistency with starting, the no limp mode until the throttle is pushed and the vehicle moves. I'm leading to believe that you should try to swap out the ECU for a known good one
Dude save your self the headache put the old 6.0 that came out of the Colorado in the z with all stock fbody parts and sell it
I still think it might be ecu related on the z bro .... but can't say to be sure but if u replaced all else then there ain't but so much more electronics left to go throu 😅.. any ways guys peace and love keep it radical stay safe and build on.. l8z famz and keep having fun
Look at the wires that Luke ripped out under the car maybe that had something to do with it
Matt should have talked to Trevor's custom. He's a saab guy.
Not at all. Trevor likes the newer 9-3's and those things have shit ECU'S and weak ass rods. He also like to mess with this crappy V6 engines that have 3 cylinders powering the turbo.... Once GM got their hands on Saab, the quality went to shit. 9-3's past 04 suck major sack of baby dick.
You need a cpwire integration harness and you could get your guages working with the terminator.
Did you change the knock sensor like under everything and mount it correctly?
Did you disconnect the ecu when the cage was welded in? You might have shorted something in the ecu. You’ve changed everything else change the ecu
Should have hired Trevie the Saab God to set you up.
Ruddy, 2Jay and a Wiring specialities harness for the 370 my guy!
Holy shit those tires are loud on highway
Chuck a link in it then tracking sensor issues will be a breeze
I wish you guys would have got all the motor parts and built a motor fpr matts saab. Would of made a few good videos and it would have been a good learning experience for both of you.
Happy to see Mat getting shit done.
Love you Matt but that darn Saab ain’t making nothing pass 300hp sorry doood
Make sure to get the rear end with the factory LSD
He still have a tire streets code need to order some and started looking ik it's in the videos but can't remember what part 😅