Matthias you truly are innovative when it comes to figuring out a good way to achieve some goal. I love your woodworking. I think it's fascinating how you attract so many people offering suggestions and whatnot (hell, I've done it before!). I don't know why that is but the thought process on all your videos and comment threads are really cool to read through (even if you shoot down ideas, like mine that one time). I wish I could find a metal worker TH-camr who elicited half as much discussion.
I admire the precision with which you work on anything. In this specific case the critical issue is the next step, that of installing the upper rest for the cords and the bridge. I have restored a couple of guitars myself and let me suggest to select a bone for the upper rest of the cords. To install the bridge you can place it free on the surface , set up a cord and define the position of the bridge from the harmonics. A difference of 1-2 mm from the theoretical position is natural.
The mark of a genius is the ability to make complicated things look simple. And a mistrust of convention! On top of that, you let people watch without charging them anything!
Hi M , now I can tell my friends I have seen Fret Squishing , I might not make one of these music thingys , but the build is compulsive viewing as usual,more power to your maths teacher, you must have listen at school, you the man, G
Somewhat inspired by these videos and somewhat by an idea I had a while ago I'm also making a uke, but the body of mine is made out of a cigar box. It's a fancy cigar box, made of Spanish cedar, which is what luthiers like to make classical guitars out of, so I thought that was appropriate.
A tapered radius on a fretboard indicates having one radius at the nut, for example, 10", which blends into another at the last fret, say 16". Pretty common on (higher end) instruments with very wide fretboards, like an 8 string guitar or a 6 string bass. It is pretty common for ukes to not have any radius on the fretboard, as in this video.
If you plan to make more instruments with the same dimensions, create a sturdy template of fret board (maybe thin plexy glass) so you can trace each fret mark on your wood blanks. Make a shallow miter saw guide so the saw blade is straight and can only go as deep as you need for the fret. Then just slide the blank to position to saw the next one while you hold it in place. This will prevent having to clamp and re-clamp again. The miter will keep the blank tight along the sides.
its never too late to learn, but without a solid base in mathematics you will never be able to accomplish any respectable level of craftsmanship in any trade.
Well truly black ebony is becoming more scarce and it may surprise you to learn that many ebony fret boards are now darkened with dye. They sell the dye at Stew-Mac. Personally, I don't mind a little brown streaking in my ebony and therefore never dye my fret boards.
Matthias. You are an amazing woodworker. An Amazing engineer. But i have to say i was surprised at your lack of accuracy when it came to making this fretboard! I KNOW that you could make the most accurate fretboard jig ever made, so why don't you? You should create it and then seek it to Stew Mac.
For cutting the frets at specific locations you could have glued those paper tape measures that they give for free at IKEA or hardware stores to the pieces on sides of the fretboard. I always keep a couple of them just to make sawing rigs as I don't own a table saw.
I think installing frets from the side would be difficult. I am aware of only two methods: tapping them in with a soft faced hammer and pressing them in, usually with a special caul made for that purpose.
Just a tipp if you want so save some time there is a fretboard and tailpice calculator on the webseite of Steward McDonnald. Sroll all the way down and look for "Free Information"-"Fret Calculator". Link: www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator.html
The only thing stopping me from making my own uke is the fretboard. This simplifies it a lot but I don't have the tool to cut it lengthwise once it's done ): You made the fretwork so simple though. I really want to make our own ukulele with my kids.
I'd just like to point out that you need to make sure the fingerboard is extremely flat in the long direction, since when you press down a string at one place, you don't want it touching further down - yet the strings mustn't be to high off the board or it'll be difficult to play.
I would think that you can't lay out the frets until you've chosen a distance between the bridge and the nut. This suggests to me that you've already decided on the location of the bridge.
I am an upholsterer, a frame doesn't look anything like the finial product. there is also a wide difference in upholstery styles, that also mean a frame isn't quite suitable for your idea. And some frames have to be as strong as a grand piano to take the tension of all the springs and webbing. I have had 4 frames implode on me. But only in the last 2 years, due to monkeys making them.
Lots of guitars use maple as fretboards. I Personally own 4 or 5. They are all finished in a laquer, cause like you said finger grease and dirt will stain them over time. Where as the Rosewood fretboard are just oiled. You should of just clear laquered the fretboard, I think it would of looked nice. ....Oh yeah, safety safety blah blah blah safety.
I've measured the fret positions of my new Deviser ukulele, and it turned out that they don't exactly follow the math formula. Instead, the 12th fret is 4 mm closer to the nut than to the saddle. I wonder if this is a tolerance of the production, or a deliberate offset to compensate the strings tension, which increases when you press a string down?
Not sure there is anything out there you cant build......genius How about an articulating duel screen monitor holder which attaches to the back of a desk?? Utilizing all of the machines i've built from your plans:)
ha ha, I was just saying and beside you do have to buy a calculator, well unless it's a gift. Admire all of your work and am currently building a resonator guitar.
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Matthias you truly are innovative when it comes to figuring out a good way to achieve some goal. I love your woodworking. I think it's fascinating how you attract so many people offering suggestions and whatnot (hell, I've done it before!). I don't know why that is but the thought process on all your videos and comment threads are really cool to read through (even if you shoot down ideas, like mine that one time). I wish I could find a metal worker TH-camr who elicited half as much discussion.
showing your mistakes, benefits us all. Thank you.
man, I am loving these videos. As a ukulele player it's a really interesting project to watch.
I like your simple raw approach to the task. However it highlights your skill level to make it right.
I admire the precision with which you work on anything. In this specific case the critical issue is the next step, that of installing the upper rest for the cords and the bridge. I have restored a couple of guitars myself and let me suggest to select a bone for the upper rest of the cords. To install the bridge you can place it free on the surface , set up a cord and define the position of the bridge from the harmonics. A difference of 1-2 mm from the theoretical position is natural.
The mark of a genius is the ability to make complicated things look simple. And a mistrust of convention! On top of that, you let people watch without charging them anything!
"ive been fretting over this..." yes okay Matthias great pun, you know how to impress us :)
Hi M , now I can tell my friends I have seen Fret Squishing , I might not make one of these music thingys , but the build is compulsive viewing as usual,more power to your maths teacher, you must have listen at school, you the man,
G
Yes, I'm aware of that, but I didn't have time to re-shoot that segment.
Fascinating project. You're inspiring me to do some luthier work; just building my skillset with other things first. Keep up the great work.
Somewhat inspired by these videos and somewhat by an idea I had a while ago I'm also making a uke, but the body of mine is made out of a cigar box. It's a fancy cigar box, made of Spanish cedar, which is what luthiers like to make classical guitars out of, so I thought that was appropriate.
I hadn't precisely placed the frets in the drawings. considering how little effort this method is, there wasn't any point in messing around.
Can't wait to see this finished.
Well this channel is above my head but I watch it anyway lol. I really love these videos!!
Yes, that happens from time to time. and what happens? Slight scuffing, not enough to bleed from.
A tapered radius on a fretboard indicates having one radius at the nut, for example, 10", which blends into another at the last fret, say 16". Pretty common on (higher end) instruments with very wide fretboards, like an 8 string guitar or a 6 string bass. It is pretty common for ukes to not have any radius on the fretboard, as in this video.
I'm really loving this series Matthias, please make more instruments when you're finished with this one! I'd love to see how you'd make a lute.
If you plan to make more instruments with the same dimensions, create a sturdy template of fret board (maybe thin plexy glass) so you can trace each fret mark on your wood blanks.
Make a shallow miter saw guide so the saw blade is straight and can only go as deep as you need for the fret. Then just slide the blank to position to saw the next one while you hold it in place. This will prevent having to clamp and re-clamp again. The miter will keep the blank tight along the sides.
Even though I won't be able to make it anywhere soon it is very interesting to see.
A slight chamfer on the fret slots with a file makes fretting MUCH easier, and facilitates replacement when they wear down.
To prevent the fret to slip out, the best is use a small triangle-shape file to bevel the cuts to grant the fret slides in
Nice job.
IIRC, the tool used for setting frets is a luthiers caul.
its never too late to learn, but without a solid base in mathematics you will never be able to accomplish any respectable level of craftsmanship in any trade.
"I've been fretting over a good way to...." lol nice
I can't wait to see the finished result.
very interesting series, looking forward to the next one, thanks.
Well truly black ebony is becoming more scarce and it may surprise you to learn that many ebony fret boards are now darkened with dye. They sell the dye at Stew-Mac. Personally, I don't mind a little brown streaking in my ebony and therefore never dye my fret boards.
Looking great, cant wait to see the final product. cheers
hi, you can put 2 or 3 magnets in the alignmentblock. so the sawblade will be hold in place.
Matthias. You are an amazing woodworker. An Amazing engineer. But i have to say i was surprised at your lack of accuracy when it came to making this fretboard! I KNOW that you could make the most accurate fretboard jig ever made, so why don't you? You should create it and then seek it to Stew Mac.
For cutting the frets at specific locations you could have glued those paper tape measures that they give for free at IKEA or hardware stores to the pieces on sides of the fretboard. I always keep a couple of them just to make sawing rigs as I don't own a table saw.
True enough. I just did it this way.
"This works so much better without video" . the quantum mechanics of woodworking *smile
This video kinda makes me wish I had paid attention in math class haha.
I'm about to use this video to make a 3d printed ukulele, ill update this when im done!
There is fret calculators online. just put in length between bridges, and it give you the list of distances.
My point was that you don't need one of those
I think installing frets from the side would be difficult. I am aware of only two methods: tapping them in with a soft faced hammer and pressing them in, usually with a special caul made for that purpose.
A good guitar is good when it's in the hands of a good guitarist, regardless of the price.
Just a tipp if you want so save some time there is a fretboard and tailpice calculator on the webseite of Steward McDonnald. Sroll all the way down and look for "Free Information"-"Fret Calculator". Link: www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator.html
Also, your vise/block method is very close to the fret press that professional luthiers use. Good techniques. :)
Coming along nicely!
The only thing stopping me from making my own uke is the fretboard. This simplifies it a lot but I don't have the tool to cut it lengthwise once it's done ): You made the fretwork so simple though. I really want to make our own ukulele with my kids.
I'd just like to point out that you need to make sure the fingerboard is extremely flat in the long direction, since when you press down a string at one place, you don't want it touching further down - yet the strings mustn't be to high off the board or it'll be difficult to play.
On a cello they actually make the fingerboard slightly concave for that purpose.
very nice Matthias!
Thank you for clarifying. I will sleep better tonight.
love your ingenuity
When you pressed your frets in, you might have used a piece of UMHW, or copper, it may have compressed less than the wood pressing block you used.
looks great good video.
Is there some gain from colouring the wood at the beginning versus at the end? The metal should be easy enough to clean.
Are you having a flat fretboard? Fret boards should have a tapered radius from the body to the headstock
i wonder if short steam exposure would correct the impression left by the fret installation block
Love your work by the way!!
Very nice!! Thanks for showing this video
how does one become so good at woodworking like you do?
The drill press makes a good arbor press to use for seating frets. You just have to make a caul to fit in the chuck.
Fantastic.
Just wondering why you didn't use sketchup/vector drawing of the fret spacings and make a big print of it instead of ruler and pencil?
looking good
I would think that you can't lay out the frets until you've chosen a distance between the bridge and the nut. This suggests to me that you've already decided on the location of the bridge.
5:19 "fretting" over a good way to get these little thingamajigs..... Clever! Sounds like Seinfeld's got some competition!
I am an upholsterer, a frame doesn't look anything like the finial product. there is also a wide difference in upholstery styles, that also mean a frame isn't quite suitable for your idea. And some frames have to be as strong as a grand piano to take the tension of all the springs and webbing. I have had 4 frames implode on me. But only in the last 2 years, due to monkeys making them.
i think he means that fretboard itself is not just flat peace of wood, but has radius like guitars have.
I want to see more! Now!
Have you ever got your hands on to the belt sander while its running? And if you have, what happened?
So exactly how long did you fret over how to get those little thing-a-ma-jigs to stick into their slots?
There are free buttons on my calculator that do the same thing.
You are very skillful. Perhaps you might consider giving classes.
There is a free download 'Fretcalc' which will give you the fret spacings for any scale length that you put in.
Lots of guitars use maple as fretboards. I Personally own 4 or 5. They are all finished in a laquer, cause like you said finger grease and dirt will stain them over time. Where as the Rosewood fretboard are just oiled. You should of just clear laquered the fretboard, I think it would of looked nice. ....Oh yeah, safety safety blah blah blah safety.
Only really expensive guitars have nice fretwork out of the factory. It would add 100's of dollars to the guitar.
Maple fretboard with oak sides.. should be a bright and clear, "tingy" sounding ukelele.
Ok, I was just wondering. I got a small belt sander myself, and even though I like to test tings, this was not something I wanted to test. :P
Not all. The higher end ones have a slight radius, but its still no where near what a guitar is. All my Uke's have flat fretboards.
how big is this ukulele? tenor, concert or soprano? with this method can i calculate for a tenor?
Matthias
In the article, the link for Steward MacDonald goes to the wrong address.
It should be stewmac com
@ 5:18: lol at "fretting over . . . "
I've measured the fret positions of my new Deviser ukulele, and it turned out that they don't exactly follow the math formula. Instead, the 12th fret is 4 mm closer to the nut than to the saddle. I wonder if this is a tolerance of the production, or a deliberate offset to compensate the strings tension, which increases when you press a string down?
Probably, yes.
or you can make a uke that is fretless (just like a violin)
Will that work?
Normally, frets are hammered in.
Yes! Not a stupid request at all! Maple please!
you are much smarter than i am
THANKS
He could easily make all other musical instruments.
Not sure there is anything out there you cant build......genius
How about an articulating duel screen monitor holder which attaches to the back of a desk??
Utilizing all of the machines i've built from your plans:)
What kind of black paint is that you use?
As I'm sure you know, there is a world of difference between relatively inexpensive and cheap.
5:15 Fretting over your frets :D
what, to hard to put a radius on the fret board? i'd have thought you'd love to figure out some cool new way to do that :D
ha ha, I was just saying and beside you do have to buy a calculator, well unless it's a gift. Admire all of your work and am currently building a resonator guitar.
Is there an easy way to calculate the position of frets....?
My phone isn't that scientific
google it
He's just giving an opinion or trying to help !
what size frets do you use?
you did 40.9 but it was 40.09...
Waiting for a rendition of the Canadian national anthem.
At 5:50 minutes, I read Italy on your clamps...
+1 for the fret math
do the frets ever fall out?
Not if they are properly seated
Ukes have a flat fretboard.
oh man my ukulele is without fretboard 😢