My M156 (2009 w204 C63) is approching 180 000km and it still has the factory old style headbolts, cam adjsters, cams, lifters, PCV and injectors. It runs like a champ, no rattle noise at start-up. It likes to consume oil, that's true (around 0.5L per 1000km). Frequent oil changes and filters are mandatory to keep the engine happy. I wait 20-30min until the oil is fully warmed to go over 3000rpm. I plan to do the injectors soon anyways.
😎 good job staying on top of the maintenance! We’re at about the same mileage. I have injector DIY video in case it helps th-cam.com/video/qBO-tMAVM08/w-d-xo.html
Your frequent oil changes and monitored driving under 3k prior to operating temp is helping you big time! I do the same with my M157 and M278 engines. When starting cold, I like to let idle for 3min before throwing into gear.
Changed to LiquiMoly Molygen 5w-50 oil and the additive recently. Amazing how quiet and smooth my M156 is now. I was skeptical about the reviews , but I am impressed.
@@AccentOnCars Temps are never high on my engine. I have used LiquiMoly 10W-60 and Lubegard since I have owned it back in 2017. I think the Molygen has high tungsten content. One reviwer went 8500 miles cabbing in CHicago, and stated there is no smell to the oil. Still very slippery to the touch. I have an SL63AMG 2009. Great Tips!
Got a 2014 C63 w204 with 90.000 km, bought it with 82.000 km. The previous owner already changed the cam adjusters and lifters, during my 8k km so far I already had one injector stick open when I gave it some properly hard driving. That lead to the engine running weird at first, then not starting at all with a terrible noise. I was lucky though, didn't get hydroblocking and after a new injector as well as spark plugs and oil, the engine was as good as before.
Glad it didn’t seize up, man 👍 The adjusters and lifters on 2014 year are the revised ones with slightly better qualities. It should not need replacement at that mileage. Follow the oil related recommendations I gave in the video.
@@AccentOnCars Yeah, they got replaced under extended warranty. Just like rest actually. Yeah, using 5W40 Ravenol and changing it at least every 5.000 km anyways, until now even more frequently in fact. Thanks for your advice and the video 👍🏻
Great video. Congrats on the milestone. Excellent advice for getting your engine 7k rpm (after proper warm up). Not only does it help keep the engine clean but it keeps you smiling😊. I never liked the comfort setting of the transmission. 90% of the time I keep it in the sport setting.
2009 CLS 63 AMG 114,000miles....runs like a Champ....3,000 mile Oil Change every time with some Motorkote...along with a Renntech tune, secondary cats & resonator removed she growls lika panther.....!
Your input on the rpm rate and oil pressure is genius. Makes so much sense considering these motors suffer from top end lubrication issues. So simple yet never thought of it. Thank you!
I have a 2001 clk 55 m113 eng. 140k miles. Bulletproof eng and trans. Full synthetic Penzoil advantage every 5k miles and full synthetic trans fluid every year regardless of miles. Runs unbelievable 👌
I know that engine very well! Reliable indeed. Aside from oil leaks it’s solid (but leaks happen to all old engines). I would still recommend the same as in the video. Changing plugs is twice as expensive on yours as I believe you have two for each cylinder, right? 🤝
@AccentOnCars yes I do. I changed them at 100k miles w iridium ngk. That freak pressure plug port is definitely leaking w the copper crush washer. Difficult to get to so I didn't do it when I did the oil cooler seal job
Don't have a M156, but a MY 2008 E220CDI (OM646 Evo. delievered to inital buyer in Desember 2007), a 2016 GLC220 (OM651), and a 2018 Vito 119 (OM651). I change oil at 20K km or 1 year (whatever comes first). The E class has now 520K km on the odometer with original engine, original turbo, original gearbox. Runs smooth. Used MB Spec 229.5x (Mobil ESP 5W30). Never used additives. Cannot compare a high performance gas gussler to a work horse diesela, but we do use our cars on a daily basis, and quite a bit more than you sir, Considering the climate in Norway with very cold winters, and fairly warm summers (Up to 50 degree Celcius in difference summer vs Winter), they will experience quite a lot of stress during 1 year.The E class is even adjustet to 200bhp and 450Nm, but still performs flawless after 520K km and 17 years of (ab)use MB engines are built to last.
Aside from 1 or 2 models, MB diesel engines are very reliable as far as I know. 🤝 Yes, high performance AMG engines require more meticulous maintenance.
Absolutely right! Every 3000 miles without fail. Have been doing this for years across a wide range of high performance cars. Have never had a failure. My low mileage 156 and 157 powered cars, every 3000 miles or annually , at a minimum.
W123 OM616 240D Does NOT need any of that stuff replaced that you mentioned. 700.000 miles. I have a 1995 Toyota Tercel with 1.5 5E-FE and at 450.000 miles still has ORIGINAL INJECTORS wheel bearings ball joints tie rod ends alternator starter fuel pump brake master cylinder Clutch master and Slave
My W204 c63 has done 122k don't have any issues touch wood. I change my engine oil every 2k miles and I let my engine warm oil till its 80c before I let the rev gose over 2000rpm I've replaced all my injection and changed the pcv valve. Look after that engine will never let you down
My 07 E63 is at almost 130k miles, I have only owned it for around 10k. It has been great, all I have had to do is motor mounts. I really hope I wont have to do cams and lifters anytime soon. The previous owner said he had the valve covers changed and everything looked good at some point fingers crossed. The head bolts also haven't been changed to my knowledge.
Nice video thanks !!! I'm 156 owner and I tend to agree with what you've said!!! But especially regarding to revving I wonder how much mechanically based this is!
I am no mechanic at all, lol 😂 Just an m156 enthusiast with healthy engine (thanks God). I can only do occasional repairs like head bolts, injectors, brakes, steering and suspension links, etc. My DIY playlist lists them. 🤝
Awesome video Sir, subscribed! I too have a Merc with M156 engine and wish to keep it running forever as I plan on never selling it. Do you add the Ceratec AND Mos2 engine treatment together? Many thanks
Thank you for your support 🤝 I switched to MotorKote for additives. When using LM, you don’t want to use Ceratec and MoS2 at the same time. You should alternate. You can add ceratec every 2-3 oil changes, and use mos2 in between.
Very good video. Thank you for sharing. Unfortunately my headbolts failed at 50k miles. Other than that everything has been flawless. Ill need to inspect cams soon though
great info.. any tips for my 2010 ml m273 5.4 liter ? noticing oil smell inside the cab from time to time .. wondering if the catch can would help with this
Thanks! I switched between LM Ceratec and MotorKote and saw lower temps with MotorKote. I still use MoS2 sometimes although I get higher temps. I will stick with MotorKote. A friend recommended it to me. I was sold finally sold on it after watching this video: th-cam.com/video/88vwUwa3igQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rKaMzrU0NqC6AZXy
That may be a good idea in newer 9g transmissions where RPMs stay higher in the Sport mode. In most 7g transmissions the car will upshift to the highest gear if you put it into sport but don’t drive aggressively.
Catch can is a can that sits between the intake manifold and PVC. Basically, it catches unburned fuel and oil fumes, condensates it, and prevents from ending up in the intake manifold. You can see it in this video th-cam.com/video/g5jp1XbCC2Q/w-d-xo.html
That’s recommended on m157. Since m157 is based on your m278 I would think it’s reasonable. I used to have m278 w212. It was a beast. Make sure you fix the chain rattling if it’s happening
I assume you talk about m156? Slightly improved design for the adjusters and better coating for the lifters (you should consider buying black series lifters with black coating on top). You can buy adjuster plates and rebuild your adjusters to save money.
Yes, transmission service is due every 40k miles or 60k km. But even doing that didn’t save me from the speed sensor failure built into the conductor plate. I replaced the conductor plate + valve body 😀 I have stock pan.
Interesting remark you made about the oil pressure. Did you actually measure the pressure? When driving here in the netherlands it is often around 1200rpm. I have an E63, as well as an E500 M113. Can’t ready the oil pressure while driving
My 722.9 shifted into 7th unexpectedly after rolling up to 120 from 40 in 2nd. Could that be due to oil starvation? 2016 E63S M157 with 55k mi.. I also got a check oil level - add 1 qt when driving in 1st and 2nd only in a 25 mph zone. I just changed my trans even though the dealer did at 45k as well as the rear diff. I'll do my front diff during my next oil change with the trans fill adapter. Also, I think I spotted a front diff and/or coolant leak. My coolant resevoir is definetely not holding up. I'll know if I'm screwed once my oil comes out all milky but I'l keep topping it off until then
Funny I am working on 722.9 maintenance video at the moment 😎 You should have a 7 speed MCT transmission in your 2016 E63S. I don’t believe it would go all the way up to 120 mph in the second gear. It will be in 3rd or 4th gear during hard takeoff. But if you lift off and coast for a bit it will go into 7th. If it acts up again, I’d say get it diagnosed for any codes, fluids, etc. It’s always a good idea to service it regularly per manufacturer specs. Check your engine oil level and keep it at the max mark. M157 burns oil. The best thing you can do for m157 is to disconnect the oil pump solenoid. Watch this video th-cam.com/video/MuZJSGN8qZ4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=p8Ipgaziuby8m9Jc
Yes I was in manual and most likely in 4th AWD sport config. at that speed but it was as if the car just went into limp mode at above 100 mph like a safety feature. As for codes, it read P2610 (Engine ECM/PCM Engine off timer performance), P0120 (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Circuit A), and P2377 (Turbocharger Pressure Inlet Sensor)
Yes, definitely. Some additives can lower temps by a few degrees celcius by reducing friction slightly, but the engine will reach normal temperature. M156 especially runs hot.
Forgot to mention the infamous oil pans, bed plate and rear main seal leaks which are pretty much unavoidable and the most expensive repair. They happen on cars with only 30k miles even and in most cases its an engine out job........really sucks
I summarized oil leaks without itemizing as any gasket may leak. Which one is an engine out job? As far as I know, the rear main seal requires transmission removal, the lower and upper oil pans require subframe removal.
no brother i have 2010 s63 83000 miles i agree with you make clear sense simpl i used to do my s500 s550 oil changes every 5k transmission every 40k but ima do every 3000 miles and what about transmission how often you recommend doing it? i dont care about the cost my guy is cheap and all genuine and this cars if u r cheap then dont even buy it even if you have the money to buy it dont buy it! lol
You can use car sales websites such as cargurus, autotrader etc. to see what they sell for in your State and nationwide. Someone I know recently sold their E63 with less than 50k miles for $30K. I think yours should be around 20 or so but again, check the market. Also depends on the car and how much you are ready to pay for it
You said you used slick 50? What's that? Oil viscosity depends on the climate that you live in. I live in Massachusetts and 5-40 is the most recommended imho for our climate. I like Motul oil.
@@AccentOnCars Slick 50 High Performance Synthetic Engine Treatment 750ml The Slick 50 High Performance Synthetic Engine Treatment results in smoother lower friction and lower wear on surfaces. It is suitable for use with engines that use synthetic oil. It is specially formulated to deliver optimum performance when used with semi-synthetic or 100% synthetic oils in high performance engines. Features & Benefits: Anti-wear agent forms a self-generating protective surface between metal engine parts Dispersant helps keep engine clean by preventing the build-up of sludge Directions for use: Pour directly into the engine. Do not overfill. Refill with motor oil, replacing 500 ml of oil with 500 ml of the SLICK 50 Engine Treatment. Check the oil level. Use at every oil change for maximum effectiveness or at least every 12,500 miles / 20,000 km.
@@AccentOnCars slick 50 is an old brand at least from the 80’s, USA brand. Reduces friction. In the 90’s my brother was going to change engine that previously had slick50 (bmw) he intentionally drained the oil out and drove the car few miles without it seizing. Slick50 had an advertisement those times to show how effective their product where. WARNING I wouldn’t recommend such test :)
I see. Thanks! There are many oil additives and which one works and which one doesn’t is really hard to prove without much lab tests. I personally stick with LiquiMoly and MotorKote
Wanna make it bulletproof? Find a solution to run lower oil temperature. Continuous 110-120 °C is eating the engine slowly. Not to mention that you cannot hillclimb more than 5 minutes full throttle before it reaches 140°C. I am still looking to find a solution to that, so if you know one pls let me know. The rest is BS.
I usually wait until the oil temp reaches 40C at least and then start driving slowly. I crawl slowly at first and then drive it normally but very smoothly. The 7g rushes to higher gears so you don’t go over 2k anyway. I don’t drive it spiritedly until the oil is at least 90c.
What do you do to keep your Mercedes engine run strong 💪?
Check out the description for related content and useful links ☝️
My M156 (2009 w204 C63) is approching 180 000km and it still has the factory old style headbolts, cam adjsters, cams, lifters, PCV and injectors. It runs like a champ, no rattle noise at start-up. It likes to consume oil, that's true (around 0.5L per 1000km). Frequent oil changes and filters are mandatory to keep the engine happy. I wait 20-30min until the oil is fully warmed to go over 3000rpm. I plan to do the injectors soon anyways.
😎 good job staying on top of the maintenance! We’re at about the same mileage.
I have injector DIY video in case it helps th-cam.com/video/qBO-tMAVM08/w-d-xo.html
Your frequent oil changes and monitored driving under 3k prior to operating temp is helping you big time! I do the same with my M157 and M278 engines. When starting cold, I like to let idle for 3min before throwing into gear.
Mine loves consuming oil too, I've recently used liquimoly Mos2 and the oil consumption has improved significantly and less engine noise.
Same pcv? it's a lie, this item should be replaced once per 30k-40k kilometers, more then sure remip999 is a spam bot and post this for money
Yes I changed mine today. The old part was a mess.@@somereal678
Have been watching your channel since you had 100 subs. Glad to see your surpass 10k -- well deserved. You make excellent content.
Thank you for your support! 🤝
Changed to LiquiMoly Molygen 5w-50 oil and the additive recently. Amazing how quiet and smooth my M156 is now. I was skeptical about the reviews , but I am impressed.
Glad to hear you like it. How is the oil temperature? I noticed oil temperatures are lower on mine with the MotorKote additive.
@@AccentOnCars Temps are never high on my engine. I have used LiquiMoly 10W-60 and Lubegard since I have owned it back in 2017. I think the Molygen has high tungsten content. One reviwer went 8500 miles cabbing in CHicago, and stated there is no smell to the oil. Still very slippery to the touch. I have an SL63AMG 2009. Great Tips!
Thanks for sharing! Sl63 is the beast 😎
Are you in the states? How does 5w50 behave in your m156?
@@SyOtg Truthfully, the best I have ever used. Engine is totally quiet. Revs faster too. Molygen + Molygen additive
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I certainly did not know the last two.
Glad it was useful 👍
Funny agree with you, I have the same car in wagon form. These engines need to be revved hard, they do like an Italian tune now an then 👍
Italian tune, LOL. I like that.
Got a 2014 C63 w204 with 90.000 km, bought it with 82.000 km. The previous owner already changed the cam adjusters and lifters, during my 8k km so far I already had one injector stick open when I gave it some properly hard driving. That lead to the engine running weird at first, then not starting at all with a terrible noise. I was lucky though, didn't get hydroblocking and after a new injector as well as spark plugs and oil, the engine was as good as before.
Glad it didn’t seize up, man 👍 The adjusters and lifters on 2014 year are the revised ones with slightly better qualities. It should not need replacement at that mileage. Follow the oil related recommendations I gave in the video.
@@AccentOnCars Yeah, they got replaced under extended warranty. Just like rest actually. Yeah, using 5W40 Ravenol and changing it at least every 5.000 km anyways, until now even more frequently in fact. Thanks for your advice and the video 👍🏻
Great video. Congrats on the milestone. Excellent advice for getting your engine 7k rpm (after proper warm up). Not only does it help keep the engine clean but it keeps you smiling😊. I never liked the comfort setting of the transmission. 90% of the time I keep it in the sport setting.
Smiles per gallon is the reason we like these cars 🙂
2009 CLS 63 AMG 114,000miles....runs like a Champ....3,000 mile Oil Change every time with some Motorkote...along with a Renntech tune, secondary cats & resonator removed she growls lika panther.....!
👍😎 Maintenance is the key
Can you tell me exactly what parts were removed?
@@ahmedduro6120 secondary cats & resonator removed
Your input on the rpm rate and oil pressure is genius. Makes so much sense considering these motors suffer from top end lubrication issues. So simple yet never thought of it. Thank you!
One of the best video for m156’s owners! What brand of engine oil do you use?
Thank you for the comment 🤝 I use Motul amzn.to/3uyQ0Gu
amg engines are one of the most beautiful engines ever created. we believe if you take care of it, it will take care of you.
💯
Check out The Motor Oil Geek's episode on aftermarket oil additives. At the best snake oil and at the worst, you can actually harm your engine.
I have a 2001 clk 55 m113 eng. 140k miles. Bulletproof eng and trans. Full synthetic Penzoil advantage every 5k miles and full synthetic trans fluid every year regardless of miles. Runs unbelievable 👌
I know that engine very well! Reliable indeed. Aside from oil leaks it’s solid (but leaks happen to all old engines). I would still recommend the same as in the video. Changing plugs is twice as expensive on yours as I believe you have two for each cylinder, right? 🤝
@AccentOnCars yes I do. I changed them at 100k miles w iridium ngk. That freak pressure plug port is definitely leaking w the copper crush washer. Difficult to get to so I didn't do it when I did the oil cooler seal job
Don't have a M156, but a MY 2008 E220CDI (OM646 Evo. delievered to inital buyer in Desember 2007), a 2016 GLC220 (OM651), and a 2018 Vito 119 (OM651). I change oil at 20K km or 1 year (whatever comes first). The E class has now 520K km on the odometer with original engine, original turbo, original gearbox. Runs smooth. Used MB Spec 229.5x (Mobil ESP 5W30). Never used additives. Cannot compare a high performance gas gussler to a work horse diesela, but we do use our cars on a daily basis, and quite a bit more than you sir, Considering the climate in Norway with very cold winters, and fairly warm summers (Up to 50 degree Celcius in difference summer vs Winter), they will experience quite a lot of stress during 1 year.The E class is even adjustet to 200bhp and 450Nm, but still performs flawless after 520K km and 17 years of (ab)use
MB engines are built to last.
Aside from 1 or 2 models, MB diesel engines are very reliable as far as I know. 🤝 Yes, high performance AMG engines require more meticulous maintenance.
Absolutely right! Every 3000 miles without fail. Have been doing this for years across a wide range of high performance cars. Have never had a failure. My low mileage 156 and 157 powered cars, every 3000 miles or annually , at a minimum.
That’s the only way to do it 🤝
I would do oil change every 3000mi or 6 months any comes first
5000km and i change oil/filters, i would never DARE to put 10k-15k without changing
W123 OM616 240D
Does NOT need any of that stuff replaced that you mentioned. 700.000 miles. I have a 1995 Toyota Tercel with 1.5 5E-FE and at 450.000 miles still has ORIGINAL INJECTORS wheel bearings ball joints tie rod ends alternator starter fuel pump brake master cylinder
Clutch master and Slave
Ok, we all shall change our m156s for 1.5 Toyotas ! ....
Nice to see you and thanks for the video :-)
Thank you :) Appreciate the comment.
My W204 c63 has done 122k don't have any issues touch wood. I change my engine oil every 2k miles and I let my engine warm oil till its 80c before I let the rev gose over 2000rpm I've replaced all my injection and changed the pcv valve. Look after that engine will never let you down
💯
Look like we have the same idea and we look after our car is the same way 👏
You, sir.
Is the best fast and direct
Thank you very much 🤝
This was wery good to now!😊Thanks from Finland
Hei 😊 Thanks for watching. Please like and follow to see more 🤝
100% 156 has weak top end 5k oil change m113 10k stronger engine. Good job mate. Italian tune up works for me gets that oil pressure up😂
Hey, @8:30 mine has a E63! Awesome video!
Thanks man 🤝 What about 8:30 ? I didn’t understand what you refer to.
@@AccentOnCars joke about grandmothers driving..My granny has a E63 and she drives slow
Ah ok 😂 Some grandmothers drive faster than Hamilton.
Great advice.
Glad you found it useful 👍
Great video!!!
Appreciate that 👍😎
My 07 E63 is at almost 130k miles, I have only owned it for around 10k. It has been great, all I have had to do is motor mounts. I really hope I wont have to do cams and lifters anytime soon. The previous owner said he had the valve covers changed and everything looked good at some point fingers crossed. The head bolts also haven't been changed to my knowledge.
Head bolts is what I was loosing my sleep over so I replaced them preventatively. I hope your car continues to serve you well 🤝
That thing will run fine for a long time
Nice video thanks !!! I'm 156 owner and I tend to agree with what you've said!!!
But especially regarding to revving I wonder how much mechanically based this is!
I am no mechanic at all, lol 😂 Just an m156 enthusiast with healthy engine (thanks God). I can only do occasional repairs like head bolts, injectors, brakes, steering and suspension links, etc. My DIY playlist lists them. 🤝
@@AccentOnCars Thanks very much for the insights and tips!
I'm a 156 owner and I'm afraid of high milage costs in my country.
Stay on top of maintenance. Psychologically it feels better to spend money on maintenance than repairs 😂
Awesome video Sir, subscribed! I too have a Merc with M156 engine and wish to keep it running forever as I plan on never selling it. Do you add the Ceratec AND Mos2 engine treatment together? Many thanks
Thank you for your support 🤝 I switched to MotorKote for additives. When using LM, you don’t want to use Ceratec and MoS2 at the same time. You should alternate. You can add ceratec every 2-3 oil changes, and use mos2 in between.
Very good video. Thank you for sharing. Unfortunately my headbolts failed at 50k miles. Other than that everything has been flawless. Ill need to inspect cams soon though
Sorry to hear that bro. Glad you didn’t give up on it and fixed it 🤝
Solid tips
Thank you for the comment 🤝😎
great info.. any tips for my 2010 ml m273 5.4 liter ? noticing oil smell inside the cab from time to time .. wondering if the catch can would help with this
Thanks! Are you sure you don’t have any oil leaks and the smell comes from the exhaust?
Cool video.
Since you get better experiences with motorkote, do you still use the liquid moly products?
Or do you switch between both?
Thanks! I switched between LM Ceratec and MotorKote and saw lower temps with MotorKote. I still use MoS2 sometimes although I get higher temps. I will stick with MotorKote. A friend recommended it to me. I was sold finally sold on it after watching this video: th-cam.com/video/88vwUwa3igQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rKaMzrU0NqC6AZXy
Are you better off drving in sport more to get the rpms up
That may be a good idea in newer 9g transmissions where RPMs stay higher in the Sport mode. In most 7g transmissions the car will upshift to the highest gear if you put it into sport but don’t drive aggressively.
I would also like to know what catch cam? Sorry don’t know what it does?
Catch can is a can that sits between the intake manifold and PVC. Basically, it catches unburned fuel and oil fumes, condensates it, and prevents from ending up in the intake manifold. You can see it in this video th-cam.com/video/g5jp1XbCC2Q/w-d-xo.html
I have a 2012 E550 twin-turbo with 74,000 km on the odometer! To keep the oil pressure up would it be reasonable to disconnect the oil pump SOLENOID?
That’s recommended on m157. Since m157 is based on your m278 I would think it’s reasonable. I used to have m278 w212. It was a beast. Make sure you fix the chain rattling if it’s happening
if i'm buying new camshaft adjusters and lifters nowadays, are they using new materials or still the same as the originals?
I assume you talk about m156? Slightly improved design for the adjusters and better coating for the lifters (you should consider buying black series lifters with black coating on top). You can buy adjuster plates and rebuild your adjusters to save money.
What about transmission service? I read recently that it should be done every 40k miles. Also, have you upgraded your transmission pan and filter?
Yes, transmission service is due every 40k miles or 60k km. But even doing that didn’t save me from the speed sensor failure built into the conductor plate. I replaced the conductor plate + valve body 😀 I have stock pan.
@@AccentOnCars what are the symptoms of that failure?
In my case, it would get stuck in any gear and not shift adequately.
Mercedes recommend every 50k miles. I do mine every 25k.
I fear I may be due to do this soon... is it a costly job?.service and plate change?.
Interesting remark you made about the oil pressure. Did you actually measure the pressure? When driving here in the netherlands it is often around 1200rpm. I have an E63, as well as an E500 M113.
Can’t ready the oil pressure while driving
Afaik 1-3 bar or 14-41 psi is the range
@@AccentOnCars is there a pressure sensor that I can access through obd?
I am not sure but 63motorsports sells a kit
Agree 100%
🤝
My 722.9 shifted into 7th unexpectedly after rolling up to 120 from 40 in 2nd. Could that be due to oil starvation? 2016 E63S M157 with 55k mi.. I also got a check oil level - add 1 qt when driving in 1st and 2nd only in a 25 mph zone. I just changed my trans even though the dealer did at 45k as well as the rear diff. I'll do my front diff during my next oil change with the trans fill adapter. Also, I think I spotted a front diff and/or coolant leak. My coolant resevoir is definetely not holding up. I'll know if I'm screwed once my oil comes out all milky but I'l keep topping it off until then
Funny I am working on 722.9 maintenance video at the moment 😎
You should have a 7 speed MCT transmission in your 2016 E63S. I don’t believe it would go all the way up to 120 mph in the second gear. It will be in 3rd or 4th gear during hard takeoff. But if you lift off and coast for a bit it will go into 7th. If it acts up again, I’d say get it diagnosed for any codes, fluids, etc. It’s always a good idea to service it regularly per manufacturer specs.
Check your engine oil level and keep it at the max mark. M157 burns oil. The best thing you can do for m157 is to disconnect the oil pump solenoid. Watch this video th-cam.com/video/MuZJSGN8qZ4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=p8Ipgaziuby8m9Jc
Yes I was in manual and most likely in 4th AWD sport config. at that speed but it was as if the car just went into limp mode at above 100 mph like a safety feature. As for codes, it read P2610 (Engine ECM/PCM Engine off timer performance), P0120 (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Circuit A), and P2377 (Turbocharger Pressure Inlet Sensor)
Will the engine oil temp still get up to over 80 if there’s additives in the mix
Yes, definitely. Some additives can lower temps by a few degrees celcius by reducing friction slightly, but the engine will reach normal temperature. M156 especially runs hot.
Forgot to mention the infamous oil pans, bed plate and rear main seal leaks which are pretty much unavoidable and the most expensive repair. They happen on cars with only 30k miles even and in most cases its an engine out job........really sucks
I summarized oil leaks without itemizing as any gasket may leak. Which one is an engine out job? As far as I know, the rear main seal requires transmission removal, the lower and upper oil pans require subframe removal.
@AccentOnCars yes but to do bed plate engine needs to come out, the worst one :(
no brother i have 2010 s63 83000 miles i agree with you make clear sense simpl i used to do my s500 s550 oil changes every 5k transmission every 40k but ima do every 3000 miles and what about transmission how often you recommend doing it? i dont care about the cost my guy is cheap and all genuine and this cars if u r cheap then dont even buy it even if you have the money to buy it dont buy it! lol
S63 is a beast 😎 I have video about the transformation too, bro : th-cam.com/video/JG20vSZ5ILU/w-d-xo.html
Every 40k miles 👍
I mean who goes cheap when it comes to car parts?
I’m coming from the e63 video what should I pay for a really nice 66k 2008 e63
You can use car sales websites such as cargurus, autotrader etc. to see what they sell for in your State and nationwide. Someone I know recently sold their E63 with less than 50k miles for $30K. I think yours should be around 20 or so but again, check the market. Also depends on the car and how much you are ready to pay for it
I have s63 m156 78k miles i use slick 50 and mobil 0/40 what is your views on that everyone? Including accent
You said you used slick 50? What's that? Oil viscosity depends on the climate that you live in. I live in Massachusetts and 5-40 is the most recommended imho for our climate. I like Motul oil.
@@AccentOnCars Slick 50 High Performance Synthetic Engine Treatment 750ml
The Slick 50 High Performance Synthetic Engine Treatment results in smoother lower friction and lower wear on surfaces. It is suitable for use with engines that use synthetic oil. It is specially formulated to deliver optimum performance when used with semi-synthetic or 100% synthetic oils in high performance engines.
Features & Benefits:
Anti-wear agent forms a self-generating protective surface between metal engine parts
Dispersant helps keep engine clean by preventing the build-up of sludge
Directions for use:
Pour directly into the engine. Do not overfill. Refill with motor oil, replacing 500 ml of oil with 500 ml of the SLICK 50 Engine Treatment. Check the oil level. Use at every oil change for maximum effectiveness or at least every 12,500 miles / 20,000 km.
@@AccentOnCars slick 50 is an old brand at least from the 80’s, USA brand. Reduces friction. In the 90’s my brother was going to change engine that previously had slick50 (bmw) he intentionally drained the oil out and drove the car few miles without it seizing. Slick50 had an advertisement those times to show how effective their product where. WARNING I wouldn’t recommend such test :)
I see. Thanks! There are many oil additives and which one works and which one doesn’t is really hard to prove without much lab tests. I personally stick with LiquiMoly and MotorKote
Wanna make it bulletproof?
Find a solution to run lower oil temperature. Continuous 110-120 °C is eating the engine slowly. Not to mention that you cannot hillclimb more than 5 minutes full throttle before it reaches 140°C.
I am still looking to find a solution to that, so if you know one pls let me know.
The rest is BS.
an oil cooler?
Lol @ oil scientists 😂
😂👍
if you buy an m156 car, first things first, change the injectors! don't buy ome, get better aftermarket.
nope, buy an amg, aftermarkets are bad quality
So what one? Why did one if you say don’t buy ome???
Bosch was the original equipment manufacturer for m156. You can buy the AMG branded or Bosch branded injectors compatible with m156.
👍cheers
🤝
The 🚗 is what a E63?
Yes, E63.
Change oil everyday
Nah, just every 3k miles is enough 😂
1300RPM @ 70mph. I have to question that. Doesn’t sound even close to being accurate.
ne deer e bu
I wouldn't do any additives. Because you want to hear your engine, if something is wrong or so.
Additives aren’t going to hide serious issues such as engine knocking. They can fix minor lifter ticks but won’t fix worn out parts.
The engine is not gonna ring like a bell - Ceratec is good for the engine.
yalan deme
question: what do you let your oil temperature get to before driving the car ? also what oil temperature is safe to rev past 2k rpm ?
I usually wait until the oil temp reaches 40C at least and then start driving slowly. I crawl slowly at first and then drive it normally but very smoothly. The 7g rushes to higher gears so you don’t go over 2k anyway. I don’t drive it spiritedly until the oil is at least 90c.