Notes. The crankshaft bearings clearances differ from cylinder to cylinder. To properly identify what sizes you need. There is a stamp on the very front of the crankshaft u may have to rotate the motor to see it . The first row will identify the main bearings. The second row will identify the rod bearings . 6 digits because there are 6 rods. Example. U may see (RRBBBR) the digits correlate to the a cylinder. 123456. So in this case #1=R 2#=R #3=B #4=B #5=B #6=R So that means u need 3 red bearings 3 blue. Bmw sells Red,blue,yellow,violet, green. Each color is a differnt thickness. 🛑Replace all hardware you remove. Torque all hardware to spec. (Engine failure can occur) Use the link in the description marked tis.info for torque specs. 🛑replace oil pan gasket and pick up o ring.
Important! All crank pins are connected with the crankshaft. Blue / Red bearing shell colours are no longer used in combination All crankshaft crank pins are classified. Bearing shell colours are different in the connecting and in the connecting rod bearing cap. Possible classifications per connecting rod at top and bottom: r: Connecting rod = Yellow. Connecting rod bearing cap = Red. b: Connecting rod = Violet. Connecting rod bearing cap = Blue. Only one colour may be fitted per connecting rod and connecting rod bearing cap. In direction of arrow from (1 to 2) crank pin (1 to 6). Example: Possible classification: rbbrrb. Zyl 1: Classification r= rod side Yellow bearing cap side Red. Zyl 2: Classification b= rod side Violet bearing cap side Blue. Zyl 3: Classification b= rod side Violet bearing cap side Blue. Zyl 4: Classification r= rod side Yellow bearing cap side Red. Zyl 5: Classification r= rod side Yellow bearing cap side Red. Zyl 6: Classification b= rod side Violet bearing cap side Blue.
I’m glad there’s finally a good video on doing rod bearings. I’m going to do this on my 335i within the next few weeks and I’ll be doing a video on my channel too. Love the build. Can’t wait to see it done.
My harbor freight torque wrench does angles as well and I didn’t have to spend $800 I only had to spend 270 degrees south of 800. All n all I Hope the motor works out for you.
You are the only person who clarified the tang orientation! A level of detail others just skimp over. Is the tang orientation for n55 (2011 e92) bearings the same as well? Thanks!
Great video very descriptive ive been wanting to replace my rod bearings on my 535xi e60 but I'm dreading doing it because I'll be doing it with engine in the car I have no means of taking engine out is it doable
I heard that there can be some problems with the arp bolts, that they are clamping to hard? Gonna do mine, and was wondering if you had any problems so far?
I saw you have rebuild and teardown videos on your channel. How long did the arp bolts and bearings last? I haven't watched the videos but did they fail or was it something else?
NICE JOB, but im gonna bust you for using shop towels and not microfiber or another lint free rag. I doubt a small paper fiber would have any major affect but you mentioned the dust-free process so hey.. lol
I noticed you did not use a bolt stretch gauge? Why or Why not? How is the engine holding up since you did this DIY? I’m not saying what you did was wrong in not using a stretch gauge, but how did you come to the conclusion to just torque the rod bolts 3x at 10, 20 & 36#.
Thats because i used arp connecting rod bolts. They are only tq not yielded all other aluminum bolts must be replaced torqued and yielded i am making 507whp. Since car still running strong
Jermaine Lee - you were not worried about rod end distortion with ARP bolts? There was a big discussion about that on spool street two years ago? Your thoughts?
@@matthewweisdorfer7757 this is my first time hearing about this . The rods are forged and the are not macined surfaces the grain split. So i find it hard to imagine about rod distortion.
I'm considering doing the rod bearings myself on my 335. My engine is out of the car as well but ppl r advising for me to have it done professionally. Just wanted ur input on whether or not I should DIY it and how ur car has been running since uve done it.
Dam 😞 sorry for your loss. My gut keep telling me to change it despite the delay and additional cost. I'm happy I did. Tip for my bmw guys & gals out there. If you every have a misfire due to a fuel injectors. Nip it in the but asap & change the oil alongside with the repair. Leaking fuel injectors can flood the crankcase . This will thin out the motor oil and and cause a rod bearing failure.
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Notes.
The crankshaft bearings clearances differ from cylinder to cylinder. To properly identify what sizes you need. There is a stamp on the very front of the crankshaft u may have to rotate the motor to see it . The first row will identify the main bearings. The second row will identify the rod bearings . 6 digits because there are 6 rods. Example. U may see (RRBBBR) the digits correlate to the a cylinder. 123456. So in this case #1=R 2#=R #3=B #4=B #5=B #6=R
So that means u need 3 red bearings 3 blue.
Bmw sells Red,blue,yellow,violet, green.
Each color is a differnt thickness.
🛑Replace all hardware you remove.
Torque all hardware to spec. (Engine failure can occur)
Use the link in the description marked tis.info for torque specs.
🛑replace oil pan gasket and pick up o ring.
But doesnt r mean u need a yellow upper and red lower as the b is violet upper blue lower?
Important!
All crank pins are connected with the crankshaft.
Blue / Red bearing shell colours are no longer used in combination
All crankshaft crank pins are classified.
Bearing shell colours are different in the connecting and in the connecting rod bearing cap.
Possible classifications per connecting rod at top and bottom:
r:
Connecting rod = Yellow.
Connecting rod bearing cap = Red.
b:
Connecting rod = Violet.
Connecting rod bearing cap = Blue.
Only one colour may be fitted per connecting rod and connecting rod bearing cap.
In direction of arrow from (1 to 2) crank pin (1 to 6).
Example:
Possible classification: rbbrrb.
Zyl 1:
Classification r= rod side Yellow bearing cap side Red.
Zyl 2:
Classification b= rod side Violet bearing cap side Blue.
Zyl 3:
Classification b= rod side Violet bearing cap side Blue.
Zyl 4:
Classification r= rod side Yellow bearing cap side Red.
Zyl 5:
Classification r= rod side Yellow bearing cap side Red.
Zyl 6:
Classification b= rod side Violet bearing cap side Blue.
1AZ
Connecting rod bolts
N54 / N54T M9
Replace, wash and oil screws
Jointing torque
20 Nm
Angle of rotation
70°
Angle of rotation
70°
I’m glad there’s finally a good video on doing rod bearings. I’m going to do this on my 335i within the next few weeks and I’ll be doing a video on my channel too. Love the build. Can’t wait to see it done.
I am so upset it would have been much better I misplaced my my mic and my batteries kept dying. But thanks this like no video of this on 335. Only m3s
See the motor coming together. Can wait for the install. Nice video keep it up.
My harbor freight torque wrench does angles as well and I didn’t have to spend $800 I only had to spend 270 degrees south of 800. All n all I Hope the motor works out for you.
You are the only person who clarified the tang orientation! A level of detail others just skimp over. Is the tang orientation for n55 (2011 e92) bearings the same as well? Thanks!
Thanks for the informational video
Great Vlog, Bruh!
I'm not having issues with my 535i N54's Rod Bearings, but at 92,000 miles on a 2010, I'moe get this done soon.
#SquadetteOutForNow
Great video very descriptive ive been wanting to replace my rod bearings on my 535xi e60 but I'm dreading doing it because I'll be doing it with engine in the car I have no means of taking engine out is it doable
Absolutely
I heard that there can be some problems with the arp bolts, that they are clamping to hard? Gonna do mine, and was wondering if you had any problems so far?
Proper video my man!!
I really could of done it alot better. But thanks was a learning process
I saw you have rebuild and teardown videos on your channel. How long did the arp bolts and bearings last? I haven't watched the videos but did they fail or was it something else?
NICE JOB, but im gonna bust you for using shop towels and not microfiber or another lint free rag. I doubt a small paper fiber would have any major affect but you mentioned the dust-free process so hey.. lol
very good video, with that amount of bearing wear did you find any material in the oil filter also any engine noise?
No.. but the engine was started briefly with no oil
I noticed you did not use a bolt stretch gauge? Why or Why not? How is the engine holding up since you did this DIY? I’m not saying what you did was wrong in not using a stretch gauge, but how did you come to the conclusion to just torque the rod bolts 3x at 10, 20 & 36#.
Thats because i used arp connecting rod bolts. They are only tq not yielded all other aluminum bolts must be replaced torqued and yielded i am making 507whp. Since car still running strong
Jermaine Lee - you were not worried about rod end distortion with ARP bolts? There was a big discussion about that on spool street two years ago? Your thoughts?
@@matthewweisdorfer7757 this is my first time hearing about this . The rods are forged and the are not macined surfaces the grain split. So i find it hard to imagine about rod distortion.
Have there been rod bolt issues with oem? Just wondering why pay 5x more than oem if there are no issues with oem.
Piece of mind and you dont need to torque to yield. The arp
Why did you pull the engine. I've done them many to times in the car
My mom yelled at me when the music came on loud
Lol I always encourage honest feedback. So do youu guys preferably like music or no music.
@@JermaineLeeBlueprintAuto prefer not music bro
You need to move out of her basement.
Please comment, like, subscribe , share, and hit the post notification. BIG better more exciting 335i videos comming soon.
do you know if its the same process for the n55?
Same the bottom end should be same key difference on n55 is that it is single turbo
Hey I got kings bearing and the seller told me it’s standard size for all rod. Is that wrong?
Not sure that's what vacmotor told me
I do know the dealer uses different sizes
180° = one half of a turn, 90° = one quarter of a turn
I'm considering doing the rod bearings myself on my 335. My engine is out of the car as well but ppl r advising for me to have it done professionally. Just wanted ur input on whether or not I should DIY it and how ur car has been running since uve done it.
Unfortunately my N55 only made it to 97000, had metal in the the oil, total loss.
Dam 😞 sorry for your loss. My gut keep telling me to change it despite the delay and additional cost. I'm happy I did. Tip for my bmw guys & gals out there. If you every have a misfire due to a fuel injectors. Nip it in the but asap & change the oil alongside with the repair. Leaking fuel injectors can flood the crankcase . This will thin out the motor oil and and cause a rod bearing failure.
My N55 only made it to 36,000 miles and died at the Nurburgring!!
Dobbo
At least it died a honorable death.
@@dobbo_f21 at least it was the nurburgring.
So how frequently did you do the engine oil changes? I am doing every 5K
My man you gotta measure the clearance between the bearing and the crank, u can’t just slap on new bearings n call it a day
Is it possible to replace the bearings without removing the oil pump, pick up tube?
Not possible to reach cylinder number one
That was the most least professional, ghetto, engine assembly I have ever seen. And I will follow it