This is the best system I've found on YT. It's brilliant to have a sizing gradient for your filler materials. It helps to mechanically lock all of the particulates in place. The vibration table is the cherry on top. Very nice.
Thanks! And a huge thanks again for the calculator as well as all the advice on developing a formula, it really put me way ahead of where I would’ve been
Like to add you typically only need to vibrate it the first 30-60 minutes. You don’t want to over vibrate when its trying to cure. Its a must do to avoid those air pockets. You did a fantastic job we live in a desert region so i was able to dry my aggregate and sand on a sheet of plastic tarp outside for a couple 90 degree days. You have to rake it to expose the moisture. The oven is probably more certain but i had no issues. Also if you want to run coolant or wiring through the casting make sure its added before you pour. Only other thing with mine i embed a frame structure and it does make a difference. You can add ceramic microspheres, powder cast iron, aluminum, etc into your epoxy. You can even add graphene if you van afford some. All depends on your budget.
Oh and lastly if you use an ATP-5 cast plate instead of bar on each side you can use one piece even though you need to run a ball screw down the center as long as its hollow underneath. You can have it prebuilt with the bottom mounting plate so your 90 degree is cast right into the epoxy. This does require fastening two thin strips for the linear guide rails to butt up against when you install them later. You could use a 3” or 4” half tube of PVC from home depot, or something similar to get that channel open. The PVC makes for a nice washable surface. After its cured you can cut the center plate section out and if you cast a close to perfect 90 with the bottom you shouldn’t need to machine either surface. A nice cost savings by building this way and you’re not risking the surfaces or paying someone else to finish it for you. You’re ready to paint then mount it all up..
Thanks a lot! Your machine (lathe/Mill possibly?) sounds really interesting, could you describe it any more? What type of embedded frame did you use, like welded/bolted steel frame set into the EG? Actually I wildly wish I had used a single plate on top as opposed to the 2 bars, the 2 bars didn’t save much money and added hours and hours of work to get them flat and parallel. Sometimes I really wonder if I’ll end up redoing the entire machine with all these lessons learned hahaha
If not for the bubbles, how much vibrating would be required to settle the aggregate properly without altering the composition? Reason I ask it that I wonder if sticking the whole mold into a vacuum chamber after vibration is complete, would better get rid of all the bubbles. Would a need slow-cure epoxy and some kind of chamber, perhaps an old modified long shaped air-compressor tank or propane tank... a lathe bed is the perfect item to try it on. I am interested in trying something like this myself. Excellent video and thanks for sharing!
@@deryckschnee6376 I'm going to vacuum bag the entire mold, then infuse the epoxy through it. The downside is that the epoxy will get all over the mold and I'll have to trim off all the flash. The upside is better density -- even fewer bubbles, and vibration-packing the dry aggregate means lower epoxy fraction. I'm curious if vibrating while infusing epoxy will speed up the infusion. I'm building some test coupons that should find out.
Absolutely! Just let me know if theres any more I can add here, Im sure Im missing info so if there’s anything you needed just lmk and Ill add it in the description
Great work Robert! With all my respects, let me add my two cents in videography: Try to lower angles when filming, it will add some context of your working space and add more depth. Avoid vertical filming and photography, get closer to see more details and finally double check the sound levels of voice, music and tools. Your voice is the most important thing to level up and balance, then keep a subtle background music (in case you want) and lower down a bit the tools noise (to keep kids sleeping). Also, if you are talking about a specific part of the project, you can try to isolate it from other distracting elements by using a table and filming it from above (kind of this old Tony channel does) and frame it to fill the whole shot. Great channel and information. Keep posting your progress!
That’s really useful info, thanks! Some of my issue was using old footage I took before knowing Id be making youtube videos, but Ill absolutely be keeping those in mind for the next one. Haha Im a big fan of TOT, his videos are awesome :) Thanks!
That’s really useful info, thanks! Some of my issue was using old footage I took before knowing Id be making youtube videos, but Ill absolutely be keeping those in mind for the next one. Haha Im a big fan of TOT, his videos are awesome :) Thanks!
Greetings, your project with epoxy resin caught my attention since I was also going to make a bench lathe reinforced with polyester resin and sand because of the economics. luck👍
Thank you! If you haven’t made your casting already, I actually would recommend strongly against polyester resin. Polyester resin shrinks considerably as it cures, and may have issues with long term movement in the casting. Also, epoxy granite tends to gain most of its strength from aggregate packing. With only sand you have a max 60% aggregate 40% resin, which is alright but pretty expensive. With graded aggregate mixed together you can get down to around 20% epoxy by volume, which is much cheaper and much stronger Just my two cents anyways, Id be really interested to see your project however you go about doing it!
Nice to see this progressing. I'm not sure if you've seen Dan Gelbart's video about his custom CNC lathe that's built using granite parallels held together in compression with air bearing ways. There's lots to unpack in that video that could prove useful to your build. Looking forward to seeing this up and running. Thanks.
Absolutely- I don’t know too much about pool tables though, I assume they have to be quite flat and level obviously. You might be able to use a self leveling epoxy top surface, with the felt on top of that?
One TH-camr says you should mix epoxy part A with the aggregates first, then mix in part B. I question this method because it's a lot easier to thoroughly mix two liquids than it is to thoroughly mix a liquid and aggregates. He claims it gives you more working time, but I highly doubt it, since the final mixing takes longer to insure the two epoxies are properly mixed. Moreover, if you mix part A and B but don't mix in the aggregates as thoroughly, the process is a lot more forgiving. What's your a take on this? Btw, when you're follow up video? I'd love to see how it turns out.
Hi Bob! I have to say I completely agree, mixing the part B in after the part A seems like a big mistake- it becomes wildly harder to mix once you have your aggregate in there, and the epoxy parts are the most important thing. That was sort of my reasoning for mixed things the order I did. First epoxy to get that super well mixed, then large stone because it’s easiest to mix with, and moving smaller and smaller where it becomes harder to mix. My theory was that way if something didn’t get mixed in perfectly, it would probably only be my smallest aggregate since that’s hardest to mix in and last to be mixed. Ideally kind of minimizing risk that way? I did feel confident I got a good mix though, it’s tough but definitely can be done. I keep telling people soon hahaha, but soon! I’ve got power run to it and started a control panel and a few other things, just been incredibly busy. Really like 2 more days of work (which might be a week or two until I have time to do…) and I can get to editing, almost there!
I'm gonna need hard specs on Young's modulus, yield strength, poisson's ratio, density, average temperature during the mold process, deviation of part dimensions from mold dimensions, a thorough explanation of why you didn't use Zeeospheres or Silica Fume and finally a peer-reviewed study showing how 60Hz was determined to be the optimal frequency for vibration
Okay so I can’t give you all of those, but Ive got answers for most. Youngs I could find but I don’t have a great setup right now so my number wouldn’t be particularly accurate- I will be getting this eventually though because Im curious Density was something around .07lb/in3, I have a more accurate calc somewhere but I can’t remember where and it’s getting late- if you really need something accurate I can get that in a few days I cast in fairly cold weather and had to keep the eg warm. Outside temp was around 20-30F, but I kept the garage at around 65F with space heaters and a little heated chamber I made. I also kept the epoxy inside before I cast, so the epoxy was about 70F Zeeospheres would probably work better than my stone, but they’re much more expensive, and based on the research in the cnczone forum and advice from several people who have experience with eg the Zeospheres are far less important than having a low epoxy content and low air content. Zeospheres would be optimal but they generally aren’t that practical Silica fume is one that was a big surprise to me to not be useful. Again from cnczone, (and my own samples corroborated this) ultra fine powder is very bad. Theres a principle Ive forgotten the name of, but basically epoxy has a minimum layer thickness that it tends to form around a particle. A tiny particle would still be coated in the same minumum layer of epoxy, so fine powder tends to “take up” more epoxy than a well graded mix without that fine powder. The frequency was entirely from Thomas Zietz, a German researcher who started making eg machines like 15 years ago and selling them. He left some important tips in the cnczone forums and that was one of them. When I tested at 60HZ it was wildly more effective than 30HZ and 10HZ. Hopefully that answers some of your questions, but honestly it practically needs a whole new vid to get into all the details lol
Hi Robert, were you worried at all about the exothermic reaction of the epoxy curing for large volumes, and possibly causing a fire? IDK if it's a legit concern, or overly cautious. I've heard some people online mention it. I was considering buying a cheap thermocouple and monitoring a cure cycle, to see how hot it gets. I filled my Taig cnc mill with EG, but the volume was tiny compared to the machine I'm designing. The volume of your bed is bigger than what I'm going for, though.
So with pure epoxy that would absolutely be a concern, but with eg since you have so much aggregate it doesn’t heat up much at all. I actually had to heat my casting to get it to fully cure as it was only like 40 degrees outside when I did the first casting. Unless you live somewhere extremely hot I wouldn’t worry about it
Very interesting, I have loads of questions to ask! I make composites bythe way. 1. Do you use a heat cycle to improve the epoxy cure? 2. Vacuum removes any air voids but I guess might be difficult to do? 3 can you cast bed and headstock in one process? Would this help rigidity?
Thanks! Hopefully I can answer hahaha Ive heard about heat cycling but haven’t really done it, you mean bringing the epoxy up to like 120-130F or so for a few hours to give it a better cure right? I don’t have an easy way to do that, I might try putting it outside under a black blanket on a hot day and I bet that could get there? But yeah thats a great idea if I understand right Vacuum is actually something Ive seen a ton of experimentation with. Since vibration is so effective on its own I think the general consensus is no vacuum needed unless you have an industrial setup where using a vacuum for that last 1% of air is worth the cost. People had a lot of issues with epoxy foaming up and stuff though. I actually definitely could have, and it would probably be more rigid. Unfortunately for me it just wasn’t realistic to get my spindle aligned well enough with my bed in the mold. Too many ways it could go wrong, and then with 1 solid piece I don’t have adjustment to correct issues easily Hopefully that helps! Thanks a ton for the ideas!
@@chrishayes5755 I haven’t tried this before and don’t own a propane heater unfortunately, I would think it would be a little difficult to not melt the tarp if it contacted the the heater or got too close. Do you hav e any experience with this by any chance?
I am looking forward to this video appreciate man. Really clear all doubt i had. Hey, can you provide the links to the calculator that you used , it would really help a lot.
Thank you! Do you have an epoxy granite build you’re working on/planning? I can absolutely add the calculator, Ill attach it in the video description tonight Thanks for reminding me!
@@robertsteinwandel6658That's right i am planning to build the 30degree inclined cnc lathe similar to emco cnc lathe but smaller, probably 800x250mm. I also have the er20 spindle laying around i build it for milling machine but never got the chance to build but now i fully confident to build this cnc lathe. I am really excited to build.✌️
@@robertsteinwandel6658 And also why don't you try the epoxy levelling on your cnc lathe bed if you don't get what you aiming for. And also if you have the surface plate 'ground' put surface plate on a snad paper and move it back and forth to even out the surface this would really work.
Kamal singh I was looking into epoxy leveling but I didn’t see very much evidence of it working particularly well unfortunately, most people seemed to have ripples or other issues that made it not very flat. As for the surface plate with sand paper, I absolutely agree that would work well, but since it puts a ton of wear on the surface plate Im trying to avoid it to preserve the accuracy of my plate. Once I had my method figured out for flattening it really wasn’t that bad, it just took a little while to figure out the right way to do that. Thats great! Ill be excited to see your project!!
Great video! Thank you for sharing 👍 Are there any alternatives to tube sand for those of us in warm climates? How did you sort the raw materials into the grain sizes needed? What was the amount of epoxy you used in terms of weight?
Thank you! I mean basically you just need a source of stone where you can sieve out the correct sizes. It really depends on what you can get. For me the hardest size to get by far was .04-.11in, I had to buy like 3 extra tubes of tube sand to get enough of that size. The epoxy was by volume, but really you just need to make some samples. Start with maybe 18% epoxy by weight, keep making samples with less and less epoxy till you start getting air voids, the lowest epoxy percentage without too much air is your formula! Are yoy planning on doing this soon or is this a long way off?
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Good to know. What mesh sizes did you use? Did you find a set or something that had all of them? Sounds good, I’ll do some testing then :) I’m hoping to do this relatively soon, your help will make that a lot easier 👍
Skyler1440 haha I found a cheapo set of 3 seives, my .5in sieve to weed out rocks that were tol big was actually .5in metal mesh from gardening My sieves were wazakura brand, cheap set of 3 “soil” sieves from Amazon- not the best quality ever but they work more than fine That’s awesome! Id be excited to see your project! Pro tip- be impulsive. I waited for like 8 months to start my project until I impulse bought epoxy and suddenly that kicked everything off
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Perfect, I found that set and ½” mesh thanks. Yeah! I’ve been sorting and washing the aggregates, the epoxy I ordered should arrive tomorrow so I can start testing :) Feel free to shoot me an email at the address I put in a previous comment so I can send you pictures of the progress 👍 I think that’s great advice in general, life is too short to procrastinate.
Skyler1440 Thats great! Super exciting part of the process getting all ready :) I know I remember seeing your email at some point but I can’t seem to find it, my email is robert.steinwandel@gmail.com if that works? Id be really excited to see your project!!
Hi Mark, Are you referring to the larger casting with the “dark layer”? If you are then that at least wasn’t an issue, for my second finest particle size I switched from a light aggregate to a dark aggregate part way through which made it look like there was really bad settling. If you look closeup (aka if I was competent at TH-cam and actually got a good closeup shot lol) you can actually see that there seems to be a proper mix at all levels of the casting, I don’t think the settling was very significant here. Or if I’m totally missing something let me know haha
@@robertsteinwandel6658 That is a great answer. And I stand corrected. You are doing a great job on this build. Guessing it stopped for a little while? Mark
@@KravchenkoAudioPerth thank you! Yeah unfortunately I’ve been crazy busy with work and other things, still working but slowly right now. It might be a few more weeks before I can put out another video but another one will definitely be coming, and I should have power to the lathe and operating motors!
I believe the sizes are all given in inches, but just take the sizes given and multiply by 25.2 to get the sizes in MM. So 1in would be 25.2mm, .5in would be 12.6mm ect
*It is so annoying seeing everyone call every substance EXCEPT GRANITE... GRANITE.* Granite is a GD Igneous rock. There is nothing 'questionable' about Granite when you hold it in your hand. You pick up a rock and go... hmmm, granite. So, Please stop. You made a tombstone of sand, epoxy and river pebbles, which almost ALWAYS is quartz. That is not granite.
Calling it “Epoxy Sapphire” from now on just for you my friend In all seriousness though, epoxy granite is what this material is generally called. Understood it’s not technically granite, but a stone/epoxy slurry to create machine tools is epoxy granite
This is the best system I've found on YT. It's brilliant to have a sizing gradient for your filler materials. It helps to mechanically lock all of the particulates in place. The vibration table is the cherry on top. Very nice.
Thank you so much! Lots of helpful people pointed me in the right direction haha
Nice summary Robert.
Thanks! And a huge thanks again for the calculator as well as all the advice on developing a formula, it really put me way ahead of where I would’ve been
@@robertsteinwandel6658 It was not my calculator, It is was created by a German guy who shared it year ago. Sure helps though.
RotarySMP ah yes, was that Thomas Zietz from cnc zone?
That one thread was an absolute gold mine hahaha
Like to add you typically only need to vibrate it the first 30-60 minutes. You don’t want to over vibrate when its trying to cure. Its a must do to avoid those air pockets.
You did a fantastic job we live in a desert region so i was able to dry my aggregate and sand on a sheet of plastic tarp outside for a couple 90 degree days. You have to rake it to expose the moisture.
The oven is probably more certain but i had no issues.
Also if you want to run coolant or wiring through the casting make sure its added before you pour.
Only other thing with mine i embed a frame structure and it does make a difference.
You can add ceramic microspheres, powder cast iron, aluminum, etc into your epoxy. You can even add graphene if you van afford some. All depends on your budget.
Oh and lastly if you use an ATP-5 cast plate instead of bar on each side you can use one piece even though you need to run a ball screw down the center as long as its hollow underneath. You can have it prebuilt with the bottom mounting plate so your 90 degree is cast right into the epoxy. This does require fastening two thin strips for the linear guide rails to butt up against when you install them later.
You could use a 3” or 4” half tube of PVC from home depot, or something similar to get that channel open.
The PVC makes for a nice washable surface. After its cured you can cut the center plate section out and if you cast a close to perfect 90 with the bottom you shouldn’t need to machine either surface.
A nice cost savings by building this way and you’re not risking the surfaces or paying someone else to finish it for you. You’re ready to paint then mount it all up..
Thanks a lot!
Your machine (lathe/Mill possibly?) sounds really interesting, could you describe it any more? What type of embedded frame did you use, like welded/bolted steel frame set into the EG?
Actually I wildly wish I had used a single plate on top as opposed to the 2 bars, the 2 bars didn’t save much money and added hours and hours of work to get them flat and parallel. Sometimes I really wonder if I’ll end up redoing the entire machine with all these lessons learned hahaha
If not for the bubbles, how much vibrating would be required to settle the aggregate properly without altering the composition? Reason I ask it that I wonder if sticking the whole mold into a vacuum chamber after vibration is complete, would better get rid of all the bubbles. Would a need slow-cure epoxy and some kind of chamber, perhaps an old modified long shaped air-compressor tank or propane tank... a lathe bed is the perfect item to try it on. I am interested in trying something like this myself. Excellent video and thanks for sharing!
@@deryckschnee6376 I'm going to vacuum bag the entire mold, then infuse the epoxy through it. The downside is that the epoxy will get all over the mold and I'll have to trim off all the flash. The upside is better density -- even fewer bubbles, and vibration-packing the dry aggregate means lower epoxy fraction.
I'm curious if vibrating while infusing epoxy will speed up the infusion. I'm building some test coupons that should find out.
Thanks for sharing your process!
Absolutely!
Awesome job!!! I'm looking forward to see next video 🐱. )))
Thank you!
Thank you, Robert. Appreciated.
Absolutely! Just let me know if theres any more I can add here, Im sure Im missing info so if there’s anything you needed just lmk and Ill add it in the description
@@robertsteinwandel6658Thank you! The only thing I am missing is the vibration table. Need to come up with something easy
Great work Robert! With all my respects, let me add my two cents in videography: Try to lower angles when filming, it will add some context of your working space and add more depth. Avoid vertical filming and photography, get closer to see more details and finally double check the sound levels of voice, music and tools. Your voice is the most important thing to level up and balance, then keep a subtle background music (in case you want) and lower down a bit the tools noise (to keep kids sleeping). Also, if you are talking about a specific part of the project, you can try to isolate it from other distracting elements by using a table and filming it from above (kind of this old Tony channel does) and frame it to fill the whole shot. Great channel and information. Keep posting your progress!
That’s really useful info, thanks! Some of my issue was using old footage I took before knowing Id be making youtube videos, but Ill absolutely be keeping those in mind for the next one.
Haha Im a big fan of TOT, his videos are awesome :)
Thanks!
That’s really useful info, thanks! Some of my issue was using old footage I took before knowing Id be making youtube videos, but Ill absolutely be keeping those in mind for the next one.
Haha Im a big fan of TOT, his videos are awesome :)
Thanks!
Greetings, your project with epoxy resin caught my attention since I was also going to make a bench lathe reinforced with polyester resin and sand because of the economics. luck👍
Thank you!
If you haven’t made your casting already, I actually would recommend strongly against polyester resin. Polyester resin shrinks considerably as it cures, and may have issues with long term movement in the casting.
Also, epoxy granite tends to gain most of its strength from aggregate packing. With only sand you have a max 60% aggregate 40% resin, which is alright but pretty expensive. With graded aggregate mixed together you can get down to around 20% epoxy by volume, which is much cheaper and much stronger
Just my two cents anyways, Id be really interested to see your project however you go about doing it!
Nice to see this progressing. I'm not sure if you've seen Dan Gelbart's video about his custom CNC lathe that's built using granite parallels held together in compression with air bearing ways. There's lots to unpack in that video that could prove useful to your build. Looking forward to seeing this up and running. Thanks.
Thank you!
That sounds really cool! Whats the channel name I would be really interested in checking that out
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Building Prototypes by Dan Gelbart, Mill and Lathe. You can look that up and he talks about the lathe half way through.
HM ah thanks a lot, that’s awesome!
@@robertsteinwandel6658 the whole building prototype series on his channel is a gem. Worth watching every single one.
Looks very promising. Waiting for future updates.
Thanks! I have separate videos of the lathe build itself if you’re interested, and I’ll be adding more videos to the series as I go!
I've watched your whole series backwards lol ..luvn it!..
think I could a make pool table slab this way?
Absolutely- I don’t know too much about pool tables though, I assume they have to be quite flat and level obviously. You might be able to use a self leveling epoxy top surface, with the felt on top of that?
One TH-camr says you should mix epoxy part A with the aggregates first, then mix in part B. I question this method because it's a lot easier to thoroughly mix two liquids than it is to thoroughly mix a liquid and aggregates. He claims it gives you more working time, but I highly doubt it, since the final mixing takes longer to insure the two epoxies are properly mixed. Moreover, if you mix part A and B but don't mix in the aggregates as thoroughly, the process is a lot more forgiving. What's your a take on this?
Btw, when you're follow up video? I'd love to see how it turns out.
Hi Bob!
I have to say I completely agree, mixing the part B in after the part A seems like a big mistake- it becomes wildly harder to mix once you have your aggregate in there, and the epoxy parts are the most important thing. That was sort of my reasoning for mixed things the order I did. First epoxy to get that super well mixed, then large stone because it’s easiest to mix with, and moving smaller and smaller where it becomes harder to mix. My theory was that way if something didn’t get mixed in perfectly, it would probably only be my smallest aggregate since that’s hardest to mix in and last to be mixed. Ideally kind of minimizing risk that way? I did feel confident I got a good mix though, it’s tough but definitely can be done.
I keep telling people soon hahaha, but soon! I’ve got power run to it and started a control panel and a few other things, just been incredibly busy. Really like 2 more days of work (which might be a week or two until I have time to do…) and I can get to editing, almost there!
I'm gonna need hard specs on Young's modulus, yield strength, poisson's ratio, density, average temperature during the mold process, deviation of part dimensions from mold dimensions, a thorough explanation of why you didn't use Zeeospheres or Silica Fume and finally a peer-reviewed study showing how 60Hz was determined to be the optimal frequency for vibration
Okay so I can’t give you all of those, but Ive got answers for most.
Youngs I could find but I don’t have a great setup right now so my number wouldn’t be particularly accurate- I will be getting this eventually though because Im curious
Density was something around .07lb/in3, I have a more accurate calc somewhere but I can’t remember where and it’s getting late- if you really need something accurate I can get that in a few days
I cast in fairly cold weather and had to keep the eg warm. Outside temp was around 20-30F, but I kept the garage at around 65F with space heaters and a little heated chamber I made. I also kept the epoxy inside before I cast, so the epoxy was about 70F
Zeeospheres would probably work better than my stone, but they’re much more expensive, and based on the research in the cnczone forum and advice from several people who have experience with eg the Zeospheres are far less important than having a low epoxy content and low air content. Zeospheres would be optimal but they generally aren’t that practical
Silica fume is one that was a big surprise to me to not be useful. Again from cnczone, (and my own samples corroborated this) ultra fine powder is very bad. Theres a principle Ive forgotten the name of, but basically epoxy has a minimum layer thickness that it tends to form around a particle. A tiny particle would still be coated in the same minumum layer of epoxy, so fine powder tends to “take up” more epoxy than a well graded mix without that fine powder.
The frequency was entirely from Thomas Zietz, a German researcher who started making eg machines like 15 years ago and selling them. He left some important tips in the cnczone forums and that was one of them. When I tested at 60HZ it was wildly more effective than 30HZ and 10HZ.
Hopefully that answers some of your questions, but honestly it practically needs a whole new vid to get into all the details lol
Hi Robert, were you worried at all about the exothermic reaction of the epoxy curing for large volumes, and possibly causing a fire? IDK if it's a legit concern, or overly cautious. I've heard some people online mention it. I was considering buying a cheap thermocouple and monitoring a cure cycle, to see how hot it gets. I filled my Taig cnc mill with EG, but the volume was tiny compared to the machine I'm designing. The volume of your bed is bigger than what I'm going for, though.
So with pure epoxy that would absolutely be a concern, but with eg since you have so much aggregate it doesn’t heat up much at all. I actually had to heat my casting to get it to fully cure as it was only like 40 degrees outside when I did the first casting.
Unless you live somewhere extremely hot I wouldn’t worry about it
Very interesting, I have loads of questions to ask! I make composites bythe way.
1. Do you use a heat cycle to improve the epoxy cure?
2. Vacuum removes any air voids but I guess might be difficult to do?
3 can you cast bed and headstock in one process? Would this help rigidity?
Thanks! Hopefully I can answer hahaha
Ive heard about heat cycling but haven’t really done it, you mean bringing the epoxy up to like 120-130F or so for a few hours to give it a better cure right? I don’t have an easy way to do that, I might try putting it outside under a black blanket on a hot day and I bet that could get there? But yeah thats a great idea if I understand right
Vacuum is actually something Ive seen a ton of experimentation with. Since vibration is so effective on its own I think the general consensus is no vacuum needed unless you have an industrial setup where using a vacuum for that last 1% of air is worth the cost. People had a lot of issues with epoxy foaming up and stuff though.
I actually definitely could have, and it would probably be more rigid. Unfortunately for me it just wasn’t realistic to get my spindle aligned well enough with my bed in the mold. Too many ways it could go wrong, and then with 1 solid piece I don’t have adjustment to correct issues easily
Hopefully that helps! Thanks a ton for the ideas!
@@robertsteinwandel6658 you can put it under a tarp with a propane heater, just an idea
@@chrishayes5755 I haven’t tried this before and don’t own a propane heater unfortunately, I would think it would be a little difficult to not melt the tarp if it contacted the the heater or got too close. Do you hav e any experience with this by any chance?
I am looking forward to this video appreciate man. Really clear all doubt i had. Hey, can you provide the links to the calculator that you used , it would really help a lot.
Thank you! Do you have an epoxy granite build you’re working on/planning?
I can absolutely add the calculator, Ill attach it in the video description tonight
Thanks for reminding me!
@@robertsteinwandel6658That's right i am planning to build the 30degree inclined cnc lathe similar to emco cnc lathe but smaller, probably 800x250mm. I also have the er20 spindle laying around i build it for milling machine but never got the chance to build but now i fully confident to build this cnc lathe. I am really excited to build.✌️
@@robertsteinwandel6658 And also why don't you try the epoxy levelling on your cnc lathe bed if you don't get what you aiming for. And also if you have the surface plate 'ground' put surface plate on a snad paper and move it back and forth to even out the surface this would really work.
Kamal singh I was looking into epoxy leveling but I didn’t see very much evidence of it working particularly well unfortunately, most people seemed to have ripples or other issues that made it not very flat.
As for the surface plate with sand paper, I absolutely agree that would work well, but since it puts a ton of wear on the surface plate Im trying to avoid it to preserve the accuracy of my plate. Once I had my method figured out for flattening it really wasn’t that bad, it just took a little while to figure out the right way to do that.
Thats great! Ill be excited to see your project!!
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Hey, i am still waiting for you to upload the calculator. 😜
Great video! Thank you for sharing 👍
Are there any alternatives to tube sand for those of us in warm climates? How did you sort the raw materials into the grain sizes needed? What was the amount of epoxy you used in terms of weight?
Thank you!
I mean basically you just need a source of stone where you can sieve out the correct sizes. It really depends on what you can get. For me the hardest size to get by far was .04-.11in, I had to buy like 3 extra tubes of tube sand to get enough of that size.
The epoxy was by volume, but really you just need to make some samples. Start with maybe 18% epoxy by weight, keep making samples with less and less epoxy till you start getting air voids, the lowest epoxy percentage without too much air is your formula!
Are yoy planning on doing this soon or is this a long way off?
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Good to know. What mesh sizes did you use? Did you find a set or something that had all of them?
Sounds good, I’ll do some testing then :)
I’m hoping to do this relatively soon, your help will make that a lot easier 👍
Skyler1440 haha I found a cheapo set of 3 seives, my .5in sieve to weed out rocks that were tol big was actually .5in metal mesh from gardening
My sieves were wazakura brand, cheap set of 3 “soil” sieves from Amazon- not the best quality ever but they work more than fine
That’s awesome! Id be excited to see your project! Pro tip- be impulsive. I waited for like 8 months to start my project until I impulse bought epoxy and suddenly that kicked everything off
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Perfect, I found that set and ½” mesh thanks. Yeah! I’ve been sorting and washing the aggregates, the epoxy I ordered should arrive tomorrow so I can start testing :)
Feel free to shoot me an email at the address I put in a previous comment so I can send you pictures of the progress 👍 I think that’s great advice in general, life is too short to procrastinate.
Skyler1440 Thats great! Super exciting part of the process getting all ready :)
I know I remember seeing your email at some point but I can’t seem to find it, my email is robert.steinwandel@gmail.com if that works? Id be really excited to see your project!!
Did anyone mention that it looks like you vibrated your casting so long that your finer particles came out of suspension?
Mark
Hi Mark,
Are you referring to the larger casting with the “dark layer”? If you are then that at least wasn’t an issue, for my second finest particle size I switched from a light aggregate to a dark aggregate part way through which made it look like there was really bad settling. If you look closeup (aka if I was competent at TH-cam and actually got a good closeup shot lol) you can actually see that there seems to be a proper mix at all levels of the casting, I don’t think the settling was very significant here.
Or if I’m totally missing something let me know haha
@@robertsteinwandel6658 That is a great answer. And I stand corrected. You are doing a great job on this build. Guessing it stopped for a little while?
Mark
@@KravchenkoAudioPerth thank you!
Yeah unfortunately I’ve been crazy busy with work and other things, still working but slowly right now. It might be a few more weeks before I can put out another video but another one will definitely be coming, and I should have power to the lathe and operating motors!
Great!
Thanks!
What is the size of the stones MM
I believe the sizes are all given in inches, but just take the sizes given and multiply by 25.2 to get the sizes in MM. So 1in would be 25.2mm, .5in would be 12.6mm ect
Hello. I couldn`t find the brand of resin? Could you repeat please?
US Composites deep pour epoxy, slowest cure
1.8 kg materials for 149gr epoxy?
Yep! That’s about right
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Thank you for the information. i want to build like that.
how much did epoxy costs to build this?
Total epoxy cost was about $230 I believe, I bought through US composites which had pretty good pricing when buying by the gallon
Cooking rocks in the midwest? I guess meth hasn't made it out there yet. 😂😂😂
Not quite yet apparently hahahaha
Showing the splur printer? That's proprietary!
I believe its the “splom” printer, you absolute amateur lol
Wonder if Calvin will watch the vid/ notice he’s making a guest appearance hahaha
Indeed
*It is so annoying seeing everyone call every substance EXCEPT GRANITE... GRANITE.*
Granite is a GD Igneous rock. There is nothing 'questionable' about Granite when you hold it in your hand. You pick up a rock and go... hmmm, granite.
So, Please stop.
You made a tombstone of sand, epoxy and river pebbles, which almost ALWAYS is quartz.
That is not granite.
Calling it “Epoxy Sapphire” from now on just for you my friend
In all seriousness though, epoxy granite is what this material is generally called. Understood it’s not technically granite, but a stone/epoxy slurry to create machine tools is epoxy granite
giao lưu chia những niêm vui bạn nhé👉
I can’t read this language but thanks for the comment!!