Another thing you want to do is carbon clean the air intake, these are a GDI engine car, the valves get carboned up. Also with the 2.4 Ecotec engine is to get a vented oil cap because of the carbon it causes oil to back up out of the PCV line into the air intake which causes excessive oil consumption issues.
This is a direct injection engine. In the past fuel used to squirt on the back of your valves and clean them throughout the Otto cycle. So that's not available with direct injection the service has to be performed generally around $30,000 miles you start getting build up on the back of the valves. Another thing is your oil make sure you're using the LSPI oil. It has a different composition and is required for DI. Misfires will play havoc on your traction control, LSPI stands for low speed pre ignition. You absolutely cannot neglect oil changes on a DI motor. And if you're not using LSPI SPECIFIC oil it creates carbon buildup in the combustion chamber that will ignite pre ignition event causing misfires and pitting of your cylinders. Pre ignition spikes of cylinder pressure can cause an increase in temperature.
The problem could be a bad PCV valve. It lets oil get into the air intake. The computer suddenly opens the throttle to compensate the lack of air, causing the surging condition. The valve cover and gasket must be replaced. I’ve seen this in 3 different cars with a 2.4 ecotec. Another common issue with these engines is a cracked exhaust manifold causing a faulty O2 reading.
All 2.4 ecotec's are shit. I had an issue with my manifold but it didn't trigger a check engine light or anything. I got it replaced and the fixed my seal and did what needed to be done. But the issue is it cracked again in a different spot, and then it triggered my engine light. I scanned it and it showed up as O2 sensors, and oil needs to be changed. I changed my oil, the filter, and bought an intake and exhaust O2 sensor replacing both. Still the light remains on, but I had a rough idle and so I bought spark plugs and that went away. Long story short, for how cheaper this car is it's sure expensive to maintain it. Absolute crap.
It’s the fuel rail pressure sensor along with o2 sensor (upstream) causes your engine to run rich which is cause your spark plugs to over burn oil it’s most likely spark plugs and a coil leading to a Mis fire I have 2012 chevy captiva and am in the middle of fixing this same issues with my eco tech 2.4L engine if you let this issue continue you will need new timing chain and solenoids as they will run hot and off time after 5000-10000 miles which will cause multiple more dash lights and issues. The traction control and stabialink thing fixed on mine after I got new tires and a rotation but you could also need new sway bars
Update** if you let the engine keep idling rough there is a chance the timing chain will start to slip and it’s very common for the guide(for the timing chain crankshaft side)on the 2.4L eco techs to break around the top bolt. You will want to fix this ASAP if it is the timing chain as it could bend values causing piston damage and internal engine damage and if that happens you will need to get new engine or completely disassemble to fix bent or broken values/parts
I have a 2013 and it is making a very loud like a humming sound like I'm in a race car typically starts getting loud once I hit 20 miles an hour and then it's just loud we was thinking it was transmission but it is shifting
You only have 1 fan,if your sitting the a/c needs to be on or the temperature will go up.The only thing that will fix the fuel problem and cutting off is the high pressure fuel pump.I just fixed mine.High pressure pump is on the front of the motor.I have a 2013 Captiva 2.4 ,same exact car.
I had service traction control come on a ton for no reason and it would make my car not start like I had no battery power, then a couple months later my headlight burned out around the fuse cord melted! And that starting problem went away completely been gone ever since long story short the captiva 2014 electrical work gets funky and messed up easily
I have the 2013 Eco 2.4 and it is making a very loud humming sound at first we thought it was transmission but the transmission chips so then I put in a new exhaust manifold it's still there it's loud it's very loud race car
I have a 2014 chevy captiva that while driving the doors unlocks and locks by itself then the car starts to speeds up on it own. I would turn the car off then restart it but it will happen again within 5 miles of driving. I hate this CAR!. I've spent so many monies on what you all mentioned below and still NOT fixed! I hate this shit!!
It’s leaking from a hose like take your hand follow that hose that connected to the coolant tank and it’ll lead you to where it leaking…or drive it for 3 minute bring it in and jacket it up and you’ll see iexactlyy wher it leaking from it not your radiator
I noticed a voltage drop at the battery charge level and my stabilitrak starts malfunctioning. The door locks pop and the car slams in and out of gear. Im charging the battery now and its taking too long so i dont have high hopes for the load test im about to do on it. Low voltage could cause a million error messages. It dosent do it unless its below 12volts. Coming to a stop the whole engine is struggling with the ac on. Turn it off and it goes away but as you said it heats up. The battery was down to 11.7volts and the onboard readout said it was ok. What if you start your car alot, run ac, or jam the stereo, and then there are the automatic lights, a bunch of stuff on this car is electronics. Battery low?
I have a 2015 with 100,000 miles and I have the exact same problems.....all of them, temp climbs at idle and car surges like a miss.... I have replaced the VVT valves, coil packs, plugs, air filter and cabin filter, I even had the thermostat changed and radiator flushed., and cleaned all of the carbon out of the throttle body...Guess what?..I still have the same issue..I think I am done putting $ into this car and will buy something else....Super Frustrating
I have a 2015 chevy captiva, I have the P0420, everything in the car drives fine as long as I don't turn the AC on :/. When I turn it on the car starts to shake, traction service light, flashing check engine light. I'll turn the car and AC off, turn it back on and everything is fine. I've already replaced the sensors that are needed for the codes, not sure if I have catalytic converter or AC problems 🤷🏽♀️ maybe both 🤦🏽♀️
I have a 2012 150000 miles on her, and it started to have a rough idle in park and in drive, and the Vehicle shakes. I pulled the dipstick just to see if the oil was low or bad and it was reading on the second from the bottom dot. Maybe low on oil??? Not to mention stability track light came on too. Anyone have ideas what it might be?
I'm reposting this on the main forum if anyone else knows what else I can do? REPLY: TimFPV I'm having most of the same issues and so far, according to the codes, we have replaced the timing chain, the timing chain pulley, changed the oil, switched out all the spark plugs, DID NOT CHANGE THE COILS, replaced the air filter, the thermostat, and getting ready to change out the cabin air filter. So far nothing has really helped all that much because the service traction control and stabilitrak lights are still popping up, still surging, still a delay in the engine turning off and I really hope it's not the water pump because I heard it's time consuming and difficult to do. I think next purchase will be the VVT and maybe the sensors?? I use my Captiva to drive for Lyft and Uber and I desperately need these issues fixed and can't afford to take it to the dealership. Is there anything else you did to fix these issues?
So I have a 2014 captiva. For me it’s been saying “low oil pressure shut engine off” for 2 days now, (it only happens sometimes when I drive more than 20 mins. I have oil in it with a fresh oil change. Anyone know what could cause this problem or how to fix it? 💚
@@Annie-0462 No oil pump , dealership said loose timing belt 🤷🏽♀️. I have no idea how that makes sense but back in 2019 I already had JBA fix “loose timing belt” so they say. So I’m still stuck with the problem 🤦🏽♀️🤣.
Question: my car will not turn on like it’s like the battery isn’t connected to the battery and I have to let it sit with the key in the ignition for a while bc it won’t come out and it sounds like there is water And it’s draining idk 🤷🏾♀️
@@ari1234. Long process you gotta order the GM OnStar Bypass connector that keep your car from starting if you don't have it but everything else is just like installing an aftermarket radio... Harnesses and what not, the GM Bypass box is the only odd thing you need... I got the radio off Amazon 250.00 bucks
I have had these same problems and I have the same car. I thought maybe cause I got into an accident in 2017 they just fucked my car up but I’m utube a lot of stuff and a lot of things are common problems with this model. My oil goes fast. My car use to turn off when it when’s under the 1xm. Now I have to get a new water pump it’s leaking bad. I feel like my car blows hair even when I have the ac off, If I turn it in it rattles. To change a water pump in this car people are telling me it’s a big job.
i feel like a recall needs to happen if we all having the same issues lmao
😂😂😂 no but fr though! Cause this cost a lot
My 2015 is doing the samething🤕
I just had this same problem. I changed spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body and it’s running way better now. Hope this helps
Another thing you want to do is carbon clean the air intake, these are a GDI engine car, the valves get carboned up. Also with the 2.4 Ecotec engine is to get a vented oil cap because of the carbon it causes oil to back up out of the PCV line into the air intake which causes excessive oil consumption issues.
This is a direct injection engine. In the past fuel used to squirt on the back of your valves and clean them throughout the Otto cycle. So that's not available with direct injection the service has to be performed generally around $30,000 miles you start getting build up on the back of the valves. Another thing is your oil make sure you're using the LSPI oil. It has a different composition and is required for DI. Misfires will play havoc on your traction control, LSPI stands for low speed pre ignition. You absolutely cannot neglect oil changes on a DI motor. And if you're not using LSPI SPECIFIC oil it creates carbon buildup in the combustion chamber that will ignite pre ignition event causing misfires and pitting of your cylinders. Pre ignition spikes of cylinder pressure can cause an increase in temperature.
This is the first 2.4 ecotec motor I've had. Thanks for explaining about the oil changes, carbon buildup and direct injection.
Same problem here shakes while idling
The problem could be a bad PCV valve. It lets oil get into the air intake. The computer suddenly opens the throttle to compensate the lack of air, causing the surging condition. The valve cover and gasket must be replaced. I’ve seen this in 3 different cars with a 2.4 ecotec. Another common issue with these engines is a cracked exhaust manifold causing a faulty O2 reading.
For real tho like you sure
All 2.4 ecotec's are shit. I had an issue with my manifold but it didn't trigger a check engine light or anything. I got it replaced and the fixed my seal and did what needed to be done. But the issue is it cracked again in a different spot, and then it triggered my engine light. I scanned it and it showed up as O2 sensors, and oil needs to be changed. I changed my oil, the filter, and bought an intake and exhaust O2 sensor replacing both. Still the light remains on, but I had a rough idle and so I bought spark plugs and that went away. Long story short, for how cheaper this car is it's sure expensive to maintain it. Absolute crap.
It’s the fuel rail pressure sensor along with o2 sensor (upstream) causes your engine to run rich which is cause your spark plugs to over burn oil it’s most likely spark plugs and a coil leading to a Mis fire I have 2012 chevy captiva and am in the middle of fixing this same issues with my eco tech 2.4L engine if you let this issue continue you will need new timing chain and solenoids as they will run hot and off time after 5000-10000 miles which will cause multiple more dash lights and issues. The traction control and stabialink thing fixed on mine after I got new tires and a rotation but you could also need new sway bars
Update** if you let the engine keep idling rough there is a chance the timing chain will start to slip and it’s very common for the guide(for the timing chain crankshaft side)on the 2.4L eco techs to break around the top bolt. You will want to fix this ASAP if it is the timing chain as it could bend values causing piston damage and internal engine damage and if that happens you will need to get new engine or completely disassemble to fix bent or broken values/parts
I have a 2013 and it is making a very loud like a humming sound like I'm in a race car typically starts getting loud once I hit 20 miles an hour and then it's just loud we was thinking it was transmission but it is shifting
VVT solenoid, it's a command failure on the 2.4 Ecotec engine.
You only have 1 fan,if your sitting the a/c needs to be on or the temperature will go up.The only thing that will fix the fuel problem and cutting off is the high pressure fuel pump.I just fixed mine.High pressure pump is on the front of the motor.I have a 2013 Captiva 2.4 ,same exact car.
If you Check you oil and it smells like fuel,it's your high pressure fuel pump on the Front of the Motor.Another Symptom
I got to tell you I have this little device that's been a real gem. Its called FIX'D Device
I had service traction control come on a ton for no reason and it would make my car not start like I had no battery power, then a couple months later my headlight burned out around the fuse cord melted! And that starting problem went away completely been gone ever since long story short the captiva 2014 electrical work gets funky and messed up easily
I have the 2013 Eco 2.4 and it is making a very loud humming sound at first we thought it was transmission but the transmission chips so then I put in a new exhaust manifold it's still there it's loud it's very loud race car
Same car same issues. Did you find a fox for it?
I’m having the same problem! I honestly still dont know what to do
I have a 2014 chevy captiva that while driving the doors unlocks and locks by itself then the car starts to speeds up on it own. I would turn the car off then restart it but it will happen again within 5 miles of driving. I hate this CAR!. I've spent so many monies on what you all mentioned below and still NOT fixed! I hate this shit!!
My car is doing the exact same thing right now. Locks are going crazy and it goes from drive to Park. Drive to Park Drive to Park Its Driving me nuts
Shit same problem with mines I'm at 170000 miles but my problem started at 90000 miles I just never got it fix
It’s leaking from a hose like take your hand follow that hose that connected to the coolant tank and it’ll lead you to where it leaking…or drive it for 3 minute bring it in and jacket it up and you’ll see iexactlyy wher it leaking from it not your radiator
I noticed a voltage drop at the battery charge level and my stabilitrak starts malfunctioning. The door locks pop and the car slams in and out of gear. Im charging the battery now and its taking too long so i dont have high hopes for the load test im about to do on it. Low voltage could cause a million error messages. It dosent do it unless its below 12volts. Coming to a stop the whole engine is struggling with the ac on. Turn it off and it goes away but as you said it heats up. The battery was down to 11.7volts and the onboard readout said it was ok. What if you start your car alot, run ac, or jam the stereo, and then there are the automatic lights, a bunch of stuff on this car is electronics. Battery low?
Exact same problem with mine right now! 170k miles
The 222°f is normal???? My 2014 captiva 2014 2.4 went into 220 and I scared
Did you get this fixed? My wife Captiva had same issue and i fixed it. If you still have issues, hmu!
How did you fixed it??
How did you fix this
How did you fixed it?
How did you fix it ?
How’d you get it fixed?
I’m having that exact problem right now and I’ve tried so many thingggssssss
Try cleaning the pcv valve and clean the throttle body
I have the same exhaust leak coming through my vents also. I’m trying to figure out this coolant leak. I think I have a bad water pump
I have the same vehicle and it wasmy tensioner belt mine did the same thing
How you get that radio screen ? My screen isn’t like that and I own a 2015
Aftermarket from Wish.com but hard to install need a special GM conversion box for the onstar to not block your start up.
I'm having the same issue can u let me know how u fixed it if u did
Did you fixed it I got exactly same problem
I have a 2015 with 100,000 miles and I have the exact same problems.....all of them, temp climbs at idle and car surges like a miss.... I have replaced the VVT valves, coil packs, plugs, air filter and cabin filter, I even had the thermostat changed and radiator flushed., and cleaned all of the carbon out of the throttle body...Guess what?..I still have the same issue..I think I am done putting $ into this car and will buy something else....Super Frustrating
There are a couple of things you said you've inherited from your sister what is the maintenance history
Have you had the OBD sensor checked yet
I have a 2015 chevy captiva, I have the P0420, everything in the car drives fine as long as I don't turn the AC on :/. When I turn it on the car starts to shake, traction service light, flashing check engine light. I'll turn the car and AC off, turn it back on and everything is fine.
I've already replaced the sensors that are needed for the codes, not sure if I have catalytic converter or AC problems 🤷🏽♀️ maybe both 🤦🏽♀️
I have a 2012 150000 miles on her, and it started to have a rough idle in park and in drive, and the Vehicle shakes. I pulled the dipstick just to see if the oil was low or bad and it was reading on the second from the bottom dot. Maybe low on oil??? Not to mention stability track light came on too. Anyone have ideas what it might be?
What happened? I had the same problem and the engine had to be replaced.
@timtebowfan628 I had gotten rid of the car due to the fact that the timing chain needed to be replaced.
@@countryhero01 I could not afford a new car.I had to put in a rebuilt engine. Fingers crossed.
I'm reposting this on the main forum if anyone else knows what else I can do?
REPLY:
TimFPV
I'm having most of the same issues and so far, according to the codes, we have replaced the timing chain, the timing chain pulley, changed the oil, switched out all the spark plugs, DID NOT CHANGE THE COILS, replaced the air filter, the thermostat, and getting ready to change out the cabin air filter. So far nothing has really helped all that much because the service traction control and stabilitrak lights are still popping up, still surging, still a delay in the engine turning off and I really hope it's not the water pump because I heard it's time consuming and difficult to do. I think next purchase will be the VVT and maybe the sensors?? I use my Captiva to drive for Lyft and Uber and I desperately need these issues fixed and can't afford to take it to the dealership. Is there anything else you did to fix these issues?
So I have a 2014 captiva. For me it’s been saying “low oil pressure shut engine off” for 2 days now, (it only happens sometimes when I drive more than 20 mins. I have oil in it with a fresh oil change. Anyone know what could cause this problem or how to fix it? 💚
Hey did you find out what the problem was? Was it the oil pump.?
@@Annie-0462 No oil pump , dealership said loose timing belt 🤷🏽♀️. I have no idea how that makes sense but back in 2019 I already had JBA fix “loose timing belt” so they say. So I’m still stuck with the problem 🤦🏽♀️🤣.
I had the same issue with my 2013 and I had to replace the engine as it died.
Question: my car will not turn on like it’s like the battery isn’t connected to the battery and I have to let it sit with the key in the ignition for a while bc it won’t come out and it sounds like there is water And it’s draining idk 🤷🏾♀️
My Captiva does the same thing
Mine did that I replaced the radiator
Does your boy has a how to install that screen ? Nice
@@ari1234. Long process you gotta order the GM OnStar Bypass connector that keep your car from starting if you don't have it but everything else is just like installing an aftermarket radio... Harnesses and what not, the GM Bypass box is the only odd thing you need... I got the radio off Amazon 250.00 bucks
Check the fan sensor I’m having the same problem
And clean the cabin air filter
is solenoid intec
Mine was a my fuel pump
Oh I already had to change the motor at 132,000
Take off throttle body and clean it
Or replace it
I have had these same problems and I have the same car. I thought maybe cause I got into an accident in 2017 they just fucked my car up but I’m utube a lot of stuff and a lot of things are common problems with this model. My oil goes fast. My car use to turn off when it when’s under the 1xm. Now I have to get a new water pump it’s leaking bad. I feel like my car blows hair even when I have the ac off, If I turn it in it rattles. To change a water pump in this car people are telling me it’s a big job.
It’s the radiator