Hey everyone thanks for watching. On the video I made an error by disconnecting the POSITIVE battery cable first. THE PROPER WAY is to disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable first. When connecting the cables, connect Positive cable first and Negative cable second.
I think it's strange to disconnect the battery. I had to get my car smogged, and it failed due to the air intake hose. Technician said not to disconnect battery when replacing it or else the car will fail smog again
@@JJoda Disconnecting battery is just an option. Only reason is because the MAF sensor has an electric connector. If you disconnect the battery, then all the drive cycles information gets deleted, so you'll need to drive until all the drive cycles finish again in order to see whether the car has any smog issue. If the drive cycles are not finish doesn't mean the car failed smog it just means the drive cycles needs to be finish before the smog check can take place.
IMPORTANT Thanks for the video. If you go to the 3:21 mark and freeze the video, you will notice that the air plug has blown out of the top of the transmission, leaving an opening. This is common on this vehicle. Mine blows out regularly. You need to re-insert the plug BEFORE taking out screws/bolts, because if one falls into the transmission, well, your day isn't going to go well.
Yeah I notice that plug been popping out since I first got the car. The transmission fill plug on these cars is terrible. I'm disappointed they can't properly create a plug that won't pop out.
Thanks about to do this. I will mention that it's common for the transmission cap to pop out on these cars. The reason is your transmission breather cap is plugged! It's building pressure and pops the fill cap off! You need to remove the transmission breather it's a black little L shaped rubber thing close to the fill cap area. Take it off and clean out the little pin size hole on the side of it and put it back on. Solves the cap coming off. Just need to check the breather every now and then and clean it. I try to do it during oil changes if I remember haha. Hope you see this comment and others check your breather caps! 😊
@@WelkingVue top of transmission under a coolant hose I believe. It's tucked in there but is accessible from top of engine. Google your year and transmission breather cap and there should be some pics! Your fill cap will keep popping off otherwise and contaminants can get into the opening as well as you may lose the plug one day driving.
Thanks - good video. I just did my 2012 Civic, took about an hour and 15 minutes, also cleaned the throttlebody while I was there. Didn’t have to disconnect battery though. Keep up the good work!
OEM Part number from the dealership is: 17225-R1A-A01. Costed me $19 after tax. Relatively simple job took me about an hour 15 and most of that time was the grommet. For reinstalling grommet it helps to remove the rubber and put it into the intake box first. Thank you for this video!
Great video. I just changed mines on my 2012 civic. Last week. It's a common problem with these cars. I notice mine was running lean when I had the old one on with a tear in it.
@@MrPink2024 Replacing intake hose did not fix hissing sound or air leaking sound that comes after I stop the car. It gets really hot. Indicators dont show that engine is hot. I showed to honda dealer and surprisingly he could not figure it out the problem. It really gets hot. I will post the video about sound.
Thanks for the video. I changed my air intake hose a few days ago, and found exactly the same 2 cracks you did (in the same places and the same sizes). My 2013 Civic only has 50,000 miles, and I was so surprised that the hose was so shredded. Also surprised that I've been able to drive around without noticing this, maybe for months or years. Fuel economy improved by around 15% after replacing the hose, cleaning the throttle body, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Likely the intake hose replacement had the biggest positive impact.
@@WelkingVue Normally I like to always use OEM/standard parts with Honda, but I'm thinking you made a good choice going aftermarket with this particular part. It's kind of concerning to see these hoses break in exactly the same way.
Thank you Welking! Use 7/32 sae socket (or if you have a super rare 5.5mm) - preferably 1/8" socket size with extension, just easier to move around. I will also say THANK YOU Welking, you're THE ONLY video to properly show how to pop that rear $^%##$%^& grommet lol ( @4:32 )-spray it with WD40 when reattaching. Also, The hose clamps usually stink - just reuse the old ones, but be sure to spray them first. LASTLY!!! IMPORTANT- VERY VERY COMMON ISSUE, and I see it on Welkings car too! PAUSE this video at @2:21, and look at the shiny rubber plug on the left side -- That needs to get plugged back in -- (((it looks like one of those Jewish dreidel toys with a hook on top))!
Thanks for the comment. The 2:21 time mark, I think that's the transmission fill plug. Whoever designed that didn't do a good job. That plug pop out too often.
Let me tell you something. First, great video, you explained so much and great video quality. Second I struggled so much getting thos stupid little screws off for the clamps. OMG they were just in the worst spot and i had to used multiple different tools and patience 😂. The hardest part was taking out the air filter. TIP: Unscrew everything and make sure you take off the electrical thing in the back. You have to use force to get that thing out, like use your biceps eith it from the right side. Putting it back on was a struggle too, but much easier
Recommend using silicone spray when working with rubber parts. Spray a little and it will make it easier ro remove. Once removed, use a little bit in of that spray to the grummets then reconnect, much easier to install. You can also use a little bit of silicone paste to thoee grummets so next time it will be a piece of cake to work in that area.
Those clamps and especially the screws on them are really weird. I was able to reuse them. Put some grease on before reinstalling. Mind that it's much easier to screw and unscrew them using a socket,not a screwdriver. I figured 5.5 mm one it's a perfect fit, after trying quite a few sizes.
Maybe you can help me guys i did this installation and after i test the car the engine ,tpsm , steering light came on and a lound noise come from exaust any idea would be apretiate it
Hello I put the air intake on but broke a hose connected to the throttle right by the intake piece. I can not find information on the piece to fix it or possible seal it.
Thanks for the video! I gotvthe same issue right now in the process of replacing the tube. I have a hard tine removing the sensor plug. How did you remove it? Do you have to compress the plug to be able to remove it or just pulling it off? Thanks for the help.
i just used a small flathead screwdriver. There is a tab on the top of the sensor plug. There wasn't enough room to get the leverage i needed to squeeze it while sliding the plug off. Instead i used the screwdriver and slid it into the slot on top of the plug. You have to tilt the screwdriver slightly downward as you're pushing the flathead in. When it is in far enough, you will see the green tab lock rise up out of the top of the plug. Just leave the small flathead there for now. Then use a long flathead perpendicular to the right edge of the plug and a fingertip on the left edge of the plug to gently slid the plug off.
@kevinamaral2543 thanks. I ended up pulling the airbox out first from the tight grommet as I saw in one of the video that the harness of the connector was long enough to do that. Once box removed, it was easy to unplug. I was compressing the wrong tab the entire time. But yeah, doesn't take much effort to remove the plug once you know where the tab is.
Before installing the new hose did you look inside to inspect make sure there's no defect and no deform or nothing blocking inside the hose? I'm talking about the little hose.
One of my viewers mention a tube was obstructed on his. I don't think that's the case for you, but it's a possibility. If I was having the problem you're having I would re-check, make sure everything was put back correctly and make sure nothing got damage.
I have a very stupid question I own a 2006 highlander limited but I can't find these part anywhere an a parts expert online told me that the 2012 -2015 from a civic would fit perfect and do the job since both are the same size and they both from Japan it's that some how truth ?
I haven't work on 2006 highlander. If it was me I probably just take the part to Auto Zone and see if it match. You could search for pictures online, see if they're similar or identical, but you wouldn't know the size.
I have a 2015 civic, I notice that when idling during the day it idles around 600 but I can feel the vibrations through the steering wheel and floor(they aren’t that bad just noticeable), some say engine mounts but then again why would at night time idle around 700 and there is no vibration? Is it a vacuum leak? I replaced the MAP SENSOR, and was thinking about replacing the MAF sensor next but I want to make sure before throwing parts at it..
If you're feeling vibration at idle and shift is on PARK, try giving very little push on the gas pedal and see if the vibration stop. If it does your engine probably isn't getting enough gas or maybe there's a vacuum leak and you're getting too much air. Then again it could be none of those problems. Maybe the throttle body needs cleaning or maybe not. If you do clean the throttle body you got to be knowledgeable at cleaning electronic throttle body or else something could get screw up, I think all 2015 civic might have electronic throttle body. You could end up cleaning the throttle body and it turn out that isn't the problem. I can't really help you much.
I replaced the air intake hose as my current one had holes. It fixed the hesitation when accelerating, but now I have a whistling/squeaking sound developing immediately after the fix. It is related to the crankcase pressure I suppose, as if I pull out the dipstick, the release in pressure eliminates the noise, until it builds back up again when replacing the dipstick. Any ideas?
If you got a scanner scan your car, see if you get any info on the problem. I don't think the throttle body would be the cause, but if you messed with the throttle body then I would question it.
@@WelkingVue Thanks for the reply. I determined the problem to be with the replacement part. The manufacturer had not completely bored out the tube for the crankshaft ventilation tube, so it was obstructed and causing pressure build up in the crankcase. I could have drilled it out, but I got a new intake hose from a local auto parts store and that fixed the issue. Be careful of non-OEM parts is the take away I guess. Thanks for the video, it was very helpful!
Hey man why didnt you cleaned the throttle body before putting that hose. Looking at how clean your engine was i thought it would be a good idea.Clean that engine man, its sick.
It's going to depend on whoever is changing it. If it's your first time it'll probably take longer. If you run into problems, it'll take longer too. You could have problem removing a tube or putting it back, you could have problem removing the air box, and the list go on.
Hey guys my 2014 honda civic ex have this issue where the hose is cracked !! I just found out , i have check engine lights on and the car hesitates when i speed up also it turns off when i quickly put it in drive after reversing!! U guys think its because of the crack ? Or i might have more issues ?
I just had this problem happen to me but it is the second time, the first time it was because I had water in mine in the transmission plugs. This time, my car was running sluggish, we found out that there is a crack on the same spot as this video.
@@gracielarv1386 hey thanks for the reply , i fixed the crack using duct tape and put the plug back and the car stopped hesitating and no more check engine light 😁 and no more turning off !! Crazy how a small problem can cause many issues .
@Oussama Boudrik any problems since then I have the part already but I also have duct tape. In the navy we kept our reactor running off duct tape for a few of my deployment so a little honda shouldn't be too bad 😂
@@SMOOTHMUZICTV hey man i literally just got it fixed two weeks ago!! The tape was working just fine but after couple months i saw more cracks , so i had to replace it , it coat me 75$ parts and labor , ☺.
NOW REPLACE THE MAF SENSOR AND THE TOP OXYGEN SENSOR. IT WILL RESTORE THE POWER TO THE ENGINE. SMOOTH OUT YOUR IDLE. RESTORE THE ORIGINAL GAS MILEAGE. NIGHT AND DAY. YOU CAN THANK ME LATER.
Hey everyone thanks for watching. On the video I made an error by disconnecting the POSITIVE battery cable first. THE PROPER WAY is to disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable first. When connecting the cables, connect Positive cable first and Negative cable second.
I was just going to correct you lol
I think it's strange to disconnect the battery. I had to get my car smogged, and it failed due to the air intake hose. Technician said not to disconnect battery when replacing it or else the car will fail smog again
@@JJoda Disconnecting battery is just an option. Only reason is because the MAF sensor has an electric connector. If you disconnect the battery, then all the drive cycles information gets deleted, so you'll need to drive until all the drive cycles finish again in order to see whether the car has any smog issue. If the drive cycles are not finish doesn't mean the car failed smog it just means the drive cycles needs to be finish before the smog check can take place.
IMPORTANT Thanks for the video. If you go to the 3:21 mark and freeze the video, you will notice that the air plug has blown out of the top of the transmission, leaving an opening. This is common on this vehicle. Mine blows out regularly. You need to re-insert the plug BEFORE taking out screws/bolts, because if one falls into the transmission, well, your day isn't going to go well.
Yeah I notice that plug been popping out since I first got the car. The transmission fill plug on these cars is terrible. I'm disappointed they can't properly create a plug that won't pop out.
Thanks about to do this. I will mention that it's common for the transmission cap to pop out on these cars. The reason is your transmission breather cap is plugged! It's building pressure and pops the fill cap off! You need to remove the transmission breather it's a black little L shaped rubber thing close to the fill cap area. Take it off and clean out the little pin size hole on the side of it and put it back on. Solves the cap coming off. Just need to check the breather every now and then and clean it. I try to do it during oil changes if I remember haha. Hope you see this comment and others check your breather caps! 😊
Thanks for the information. When I have time I'll see if I can find the breather cap.
@@WelkingVue I looked again and it's actually to the left a bit of the fill cap. It's pretty small and easy to miss
I try looking for it I didn't see or maybe I saw and didn't know it was the breather cap lol.
@@WelkingVue top of transmission under a coolant hose I believe. It's tucked in there but is accessible from top of engine. Google your year and transmission breather cap and there should be some pics! Your fill cap will keep popping off otherwise and contaminants can get into the opening as well as you may lose the plug one day driving.
Were is this part located does it stop it from ripping mines been ripping every 7 to 8 months....
Thanks - good video. I just did my 2012 Civic, took about an hour and 15 minutes, also cleaned the throttlebody while I was there. Didn’t have to disconnect battery though. Keep up the good work!
OEM Part number from the dealership is: 17225-R1A-A01. Costed me $19 after tax. Relatively simple job took me about an hour 15 and most of that time was the grommet. For reinstalling grommet it helps to remove the rubber and put it into the intake box first. Thank you for this video!
Also check the lower motor mount. Mine was broken leading to excessive movement when the motor is under load to move.
Thank you. This is the only video that shows the detailed steps I found.
Thanks. I really wanted this video to be shorter, but if it was shorter I would be leaving out the details.
Great video. I just changed mines on my 2012 civic. Last week. It's a common problem with these cars. I notice mine was running lean when I had the old one on with a tear in it.
Did yours trigger a check emissions light?.
*My car was hesitating and jerking...* Yep there was a rip on the *intake hose* just like this.
$20 fix. 👍🏾
Did it fix the car jerking too?
My car has exactly same problems. Hissing sound and jerking. Replacing Intake hose will fix the both?
Yes. *Car runs like new again. Gas mileage went way up too.*
@@MrPink2024 Replacing intake hose did not fix hissing sound or air leaking sound that comes after I stop the car. It gets really hot. Indicators dont show that engine is hot. I showed to honda dealer and surprisingly he could not figure it out the problem. It really gets hot. I will post the video about sound.
Here is the video th-cam.com/video/8D4GRl9cW-s/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. I changed my air intake hose a few days ago, and found exactly the same 2 cracks you did (in the same places and the same sizes). My 2013 Civic only has 50,000 miles, and I was so surprised that the hose was so shredded. Also surprised that I've been able to drive around without noticing this, maybe for months or years. Fuel economy improved by around 15% after replacing the hose, cleaning the throttle body, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Likely the intake hose replacement had the biggest positive impact.
When I did mine the aftermarket hose seems to be of better quality, I think it'll last longer.
@@WelkingVue Normally I like to always use OEM/standard parts with Honda, but I'm thinking you made a good choice going aftermarket with this particular part. It's kind of concerning to see these hoses break in exactly the same way.
@mikeburston7013 If I remember correctly, the new hose is more flexible. By being flexible I think it'll be less likely to crack.
Also check the lower motor mount. Mine was broken leading to excessive movement when the motor is under load to move.
explain every step in details very carefully , so so good video , thank you very much
Thanks Philip
Thank you for this video. Just did mine for my wife’s car.
thank you very much, just changed my Honda Civic 2012 got same yours.
Great video! Thanks for detailed explanation and making life easier with this vehicle.
Thank you Welking! Use 7/32 sae socket (or if you have a super rare 5.5mm) - preferably 1/8" socket size with extension, just easier to move around. I will also say THANK YOU Welking, you're THE ONLY video to properly show how to pop that rear $^%##$%^& grommet lol ( @4:32 )-spray it with WD40 when reattaching. Also, The hose clamps usually stink - just reuse the old ones, but be sure to spray them first. LASTLY!!! IMPORTANT- VERY VERY COMMON ISSUE, and I see it on Welkings car too! PAUSE this video at @2:21, and look at the shiny rubber plug on the left side -- That needs to get plugged back in -- (((it looks like one of those Jewish dreidel toys with a hook on top))!
Thanks for the comment. The 2:21 time mark, I think that's the transmission fill plug. Whoever designed that didn't do a good job. That plug pop out too often.
Thank you sir, you made this easy-peasy and I appreciate the effort.
Let me tell you something.
First, great video, you explained so much and great video quality.
Second
I struggled so much getting thos stupid little screws off for the clamps. OMG they were just in the worst spot and i had to used multiple different tools and patience 😂.
The hardest part was taking out the air filter. TIP: Unscrew everything and make sure you take off the electrical thing in the back. You have to use force to get that thing out, like use your biceps eith it from the right side.
Putting it back on was a struggle too, but much easier
Replacing the intake hose was difficult for me too lol.
Recommend using silicone spray when working with rubber parts. Spray a little and it will make it easier ro remove. Once removed, use a little bit in of that spray to the grummets then reconnect, much easier to install. You can also use a little bit of silicone paste to thoee grummets so next time it will be a piece of cake to work in that area.
Also check the lower motor mount. Mine was broken leading to excessive movement when the motor is under load to move.
I changed the one in my wife’s Odyssey but that one was much easier to access. I think for my civic I might get the shop to do it 😂
Going to the shop in 2 days to change it can’t access anything and I don’t have the tools 🤣
Negative battery terminal first always
Those clamps and especially the screws on them are really weird. I was able to reuse them. Put some grease on before reinstalling. Mind that it's much easier to screw and unscrew them using a socket,not a screwdriver. I figured 5.5 mm one it's a perfect fit, after trying quite a few sizes.
Great video I FIX MY CAR ❤
Good video man.... I appreciate it.
Might make the job easier to have just removed the cowling so you can access everything easier
Maybe you can help me guys i did this installation and after i test the car the engine ,tpsm , steering light came on and a lound noise come from exaust any idea would be apretiate it
Did you fix this? Having same issue.
@@noah09974 its was nothing the problem went away on its own. i think the throttle needed to recalibrate after cleaning, i had the lights for days .
@@legolas0029 Yeah I used a scanner, cleared the codes, and it fixed it.
I had the same crack on the intake hose on my 15 CRv. I guess its common this generation of CRvs.
The new one I put in seems more flexible. Might last longer without cracking.
Hello I put the air intake on but broke a hose connected to the throttle right by the intake piece. I can not find information on the piece to fix it or possible seal it.
I'm not sure which hose you broke. You could probably just buy hose at Auto Zone to replace it. They sell it by the foot and in different size.
Thanks for the video! I gotvthe same issue right now in the process of replacing the tube. I have a hard tine removing the sensor plug. How did you remove it? Do you have to compress the plug to be able to remove it or just pulling it off? Thanks for the help.
i just used a small flathead screwdriver. There is a tab on the top of the sensor plug. There wasn't enough room to get the leverage i needed to squeeze it while sliding the plug off. Instead i used the screwdriver and slid it into the slot on top of the plug. You have to tilt the screwdriver slightly downward as you're pushing the flathead in. When it is in far enough, you will see the green tab lock rise up out of the top of the plug. Just leave the small flathead there for now. Then use a long flathead perpendicular to the right edge of the plug and a fingertip on the left edge of the plug to gently slid the plug off.
@kevinamaral2543 thanks. I ended up pulling the airbox out first from the tight grommet as I saw in one of the video that the harness of the connector was long enough to do that. Once box removed, it was easy to unplug. I was compressing the wrong tab the entire time. But yeah, doesn't take much effort to remove the plug once you know where the tab is.
@@timdao3456 I would have try to help you, but I just saw your post. Glad you were able to remove it.
Great video I fix my car
Good job thank you
Hello, thanks for the video. I've replaced the hose but now engine is loud when accelerate, any clue?
Before installing the new hose did you look inside to inspect make sure there's no defect and no deform or nothing blocking inside the hose? I'm talking about the little hose.
@@WelkingVue Actually no, how i can check that without removing the hose
One of my viewers mention a tube was obstructed on his. I don't think that's the case for you, but it's a possibility. If I was having the problem you're having I would re-check, make sure everything was put back correctly and make sure nothing got damage.
I have a very stupid question
I own a 2006 highlander limited but I can't find these part anywhere an a parts expert online told me that the 2012 -2015 from a civic would fit perfect and do the job since both are the same size and they both from Japan it's that some how truth ?
I haven't work on 2006 highlander. If it was me I probably just take the part to Auto Zone and see if it match. You could search for pictures online, see if they're similar or identical, but you wouldn't know the size.
Do you have to remove the air filter box? It looks like you can replace the air intake hose without taking out the box.
If you could, then you don't need to move the air filter box. I find it extremely difficult, so I just removed the box.
I have a 2015 civic, I notice that when idling during the day it idles around 600 but I can feel the vibrations through the steering wheel and floor(they aren’t that bad just noticeable), some say engine mounts but then again why would at night time idle around 700 and there is no vibration? Is it a vacuum leak? I replaced the MAP SENSOR, and was thinking about replacing the MAF sensor next but I want to make sure before throwing parts at it..
If you're feeling vibration at idle and shift is on PARK, try giving very little push on the gas pedal and see if the vibration stop. If it does your engine probably isn't getting enough gas or maybe there's a vacuum leak and you're getting too much air. Then again it could be none of those problems. Maybe the throttle body needs cleaning or maybe not. If you do clean the throttle body you got to be knowledgeable at cleaning electronic throttle body or else something could get screw up, I think all 2015 civic might have electronic throttle body. You could end up cleaning the throttle body and it turn out that isn't the problem. I can't really help you much.
Vacuum leak
I replaced the air intake hose as my current one had holes. It fixed the hesitation when accelerating, but now I have a whistling/squeaking sound developing immediately after the fix. It is related to the crankcase pressure I suppose, as if I pull out the dipstick, the release in pressure eliminates the noise, until it builds back up again when replacing the dipstick. Any ideas?
If you got a scanner scan your car, see if you get any info on the problem. I don't think the throttle body would be the cause, but if you messed with the throttle body then I would question it.
@@WelkingVue
Thanks for the reply. I determined the problem to be with the replacement part. The manufacturer had not completely bored out the tube for the crankshaft ventilation tube, so it was obstructed and causing pressure build up in the crankcase. I could have drilled it out, but I got a new intake hose from a local auto parts store and that fixed the issue. Be careful of non-OEM parts is the take away I guess. Thanks for the video, it was very helpful!
I'm glad you got it fixed.
Great video!
What size socket for the original hose clamps?
Don't remember. If you got a set of socket, it should just be one of the little ones. Easy to figure out.
5.5mm
Negative terminal 1st. The ground needs removed 1st. If u do positive first u are removing the circuit causing shorts
I mention this under the Video descriptions. Will mention on the title too.
@@WelkingVue its all good. Great video that still helped
Do u recommend getting air intake hose from Honda only?
The one I installed in the video isn't from Honda and it seems to be of better quality than the old one. The old one is most likely the original.
Where did you buy the air intake hose and how much? Part number?
Auto Zone. Check out their website you should be able search for it.
How did you remove the grommet?
Nice video
Did you use oem part? Was your car hesitating of this air intake maybe being ripped?
I got it at AutoZone. Was having bad acceleration with the ripped hose.
Hey man why didnt you cleaned the throttle body before putting that hose. Looking at how clean your engine was i thought it would be a good idea.Clean that engine man, its sick.
How long does it take to change it ?
It's going to depend on whoever is changing it. If it's your first time it'll probably take longer. If you run into problems, it'll take longer too. You could have problem removing a tube or putting it back, you could have problem removing the air box, and the list go on.
great video...Thank you!
Unfortunately this is a common issue for this Gen. It does affect performance!
Thx
You said negative first, but you disconnected positive first.
I made error on the video, so I explain on the title. If you read the description I explain there too.
Hey guys my 2014 honda civic ex have this issue where the hose is cracked !! I just found out , i have check engine lights on and the car hesitates when i speed up also it turns off when i quickly put it in drive after reversing!! U guys think its because of the crack ? Or i might have more issues ?
I just had this problem happen to me but it is the second time, the first time it was because I had water in mine in the transmission plugs.
This time, my car was running sluggish, we found out that there is a crack on the same spot as this video.
@@gracielarv1386 hey thanks for the reply , i fixed the crack using duct tape and put the plug back and the car stopped hesitating and no more check engine light 😁 and no more turning off !! Crazy how a small problem can cause many issues .
@Oussama Boudrik any problems since then I have the part already but I also have duct tape. In the navy we kept our reactor running off duct tape for a few of my deployment so a little honda shouldn't be too bad 😂
@@SMOOTHMUZICTV hey man i literally just got it fixed two weeks ago!! The tape was working just fine but after couple months i saw more cracks , so i had to replace it , it coat me 75$ parts and labor , ☺.
Thx for info on buddha
Please remove NEGATIVE terminal first!
I mention this in the video description.
NOW REPLACE THE MAF SENSOR AND THE TOP OXYGEN SENSOR. IT WILL RESTORE THE POWER TO THE ENGINE. SMOOTH OUT YOUR IDLE. RESTORE THE ORIGINAL GAS MILEAGE. NIGHT AND DAY. YOU CAN THANK ME LATER.