Ellipsoidal fixtures are, in my opinion, the most underrated and versatile fixtures on the truck. Need some texture? Add a gobo. Need to bring up room ambiance? Hit it into the ceiling. Need to hit a single point on a wall? Use the cutters. Thank you for doing this side-by-side comparison.
Luke Seerveld Of course! Gaffers gotta stick together. I did a feature a few years back where we had 6 750w lekos and 2 of the lustr 2s. Used all of them religiously for everything under the sun. People don’t use lekos nearly as often as they could.
the reason for the second light, ETC LED, having lower output at 3200k is likely because in the bicolor led units they mix whatever the bottom of their WB range LEDs, ie 2800k or whatever the lowest is on this light, and the highest, 7400k or whatever the top is, to achieve maximum output at daylight, all LEDs from low temp to high temp firing at max output.
Thanks for the great comparison. Personally, I love my 750 tungsten units. Even more so that I picked them up for 1/2 the price of an HMI globe. Used market is great for these units, as the LED's are taking over with many stage venues. Can't blame them, as the power draw, heat and cool-down time isn't always fun to deal with. But bang for buck, I couldn't be happier.
When you were using the gobo at about 4:40 you said it wouldn't be called colour fringing. What is this effect and how does it differ from colour fringing? Especially as you referred to the same effect as "colour fringing" at about 9 minutes in? Is fringing only an effect of the lens? Sorry to sound pernickety, I am coming to this as a total beginner so I wanna understand these concepts properly without making assumptions of my own.
Good question! Definitely check out part 1 and 2 of Andrew Luck’s Gaffer&Gear episodes on the spotlight: th-cam.com/video/TmACo7ZIHQY/w-d-xo.html Andrew does a great job pointing out the color fringing. Sadly, I’m not so precise or, it turns out, knowledgeable:) What was messing me up was not the color fringing per se, which is what happens at the edges of the shadow created by the gobo, but the fact that the center area of the gobo was casting a different color temp than the outer area. This was true for the tungsten and HMI units but not the Aputure using the same gobo. The Aputure was obviously using a different barrel, so that leads me to believe there’s something about my other barrels... but I don’t have an answer at the moment. While we were taping the comparison we didn’t have time to suss it out so I just forged ahead. That said, it made the Aputure’s limited fringing and center to outside evenness that much more impressive.
@@meetthegaffer Thank you very much for your response, and I will definitely be checking out those videos right now. Btw, a quick follow up question. At ~11:40 the graphics state that it could be a "burnt out" gobo pattern causing the variation in colour temp. Even if that could actually be down to the barrel instead of the gobo, what is a burnt out gobo? I imagine recognising that would be something that would take years of experience to pick out, but I was wondering if you could explain to me what I should hypothetically look out for in the light quality, and what it means in terms of the physical changes that have occurred in the gobo itself? Sorry to be asking all these questions. Out of interest -I've only just started on the "Meet the Gaffer" series, but do you ever do live chats or viewer questions videos?
Sometimes gobos/patterns that have an intricate design with fine cuts can get bent or ripped and often get kind of a burn or reddish tint on the gobo itself. That doesn't mean you can't use it, but it's something to watch because loose bits can get caught in the slot when you're sliding the gobo holder in or out. I don't use patterns on every job, so it's probably a better idea to ask longevity questions of a person working in legit theater. I still need to suss out the color shift issue of center to outside the gobo projection. I have done one podcast (Filmmakers Drinking Bourbon #99) but have not done anything live, unless you include local guest lighting classes or Cinegear. If someone has a live show and wants to bring me on as a guest for Q&A I would be open to that, but I don't really have the bandwidth to get up to speed on a live event casting at the moment:) I'm happy just to get an episode a week out the door... and even that is kind of a hack job compared to a lot of other channels. If you want to come up with a list of questions, I can do an episode where I try to "answer viewer questions" a type of mail bag segment... and maybe that will become a thing, like Travel Talk?
Right. Didn’t have time to get too deep in the weeds... we shot that in an hour. I want to suss out the color variance issues on the tungsten and HMI in the gobo patterns... and clean the lenses in my barrels:)
I'm surprised that the Aputure 300d ii had only half the intensity as the Joker 400. The Joker 400 draws something like 2x the watts, and produces a ton of heat from those watts, so I expected the 300 watt LED to have much closer light output. Good to know! I really like the look that the Aladdin light mat was producing. What size was it and how far was it from you off camera? If you have a BTS shot showing it's location, would you be able to put it up at patreon? Thanks!
So many things get compared to 400 jokers, but you really need to see it yourself before you believe it. That said, I was impressed with the 300d II/spotlight combo. I look forward to using it in the field. The Aladdin is a 3’x3’ fabric lite that folds up to 1/6th of that. It was maybe 6’ away and was outfitted with a DoP snapbag and snapgrid. I think some of the guys took stills... let me see if I can dig one up.
@@robertnorton5430 The specs from K5600 for the 400 say it draws 5.5a at 115v, which is about 630w. That is about 2x the draw from the plug versus the 300d mk ii. (Aputure's specs say max 350w draw.) But the 400 turns a lot more of that wattage into heat, not light. A standard 100w incandescent bulb puts out more than 95w of heat - how many 100w bulb equivalents is the heat output of a 400? 3? 4? More? (I can't find an actual number on that.) Ignoring the power lost in the ballast, that's probably 300w or less coming out as light. Luke measured the intensity for the 400 with the leko as 360fc at 10:50, then the 300d at 140fc at 15:40. Half of 360fc is 180fc - so the intensity of the 400 is more than 2x that of the 300d with the spot modifiers. (I suspect the leko system for the Jokers is more efficient than for the Apurture lights...)
Thomas Donalek, some BTS pics are now up on Patreon. Hope that helps. I was very fortunate to have a bunch of guys stay after we wrapped to pull off the comparison episode.
Thanks for another informative review. I have the 300d on order and intend to add the spotlight attachment. Any suggestion regarding which degree angle is fairly versatile?
For interviews where you may be in a more confined space and wish to get the widest pattern with the shortest throw, I would go with a 50 degree lens, but I think the widest currently avail is 36 degrees. If you need a longer throw or plan to use this set up for scenes needing smaller areas of light, then the tighter barrels will be better.
I used a baby LED leko recently (forget the brand name), (a ¼ the size of standard leko), but the output wasn’t there, so we went with Feliix lights instead to fill the background.
Things worth considering. Color meters aren't quite there yet. It's kind of rare that two will read exactly the same, even with the c7000 or c800's. You need to also gel the LED's rather than tune to color, even when it's just on the tungsten to daylight spectrum, so you're going to be losing foot-candles if you want to retain color. The color shift is there, and it will crush colors in your spectrum. Last but not least, hot spots, I don't know what else to say there. Tungsten is true, earn yer burns, kids.
Hi luke, thank you for a Great video . Is there a possibility to make a video for hive lighting super hornet 575-c with different C-SERIES ACCESSORIES ?
Funny story, I had a 575-c from the Kickstarter, but never found a good way to incorporate it into my work, so I donated it to a DP who said he thought he could use it. I think he is happy with it, but alas it was not the right light for me:(
@@meetthegaffer that's interesting I didn't know they had it on Kickstarter . hivelighting.com/c-series/575-c/ same light ? looks really good on paper :)
I know this is not the SpotLight Mini, but I imagine it will be similar. I'm wondering with your experience using this one, whether you think using the Spotlight Mini + 18 blade iris + 60X can help achieve a narrower beam on the 60x, maybe 6-8 degrees, like the Dedo fixtures, and without any cons?
Hi Luke, Thanks for the video. With the aputure on a light stand the "tilt up" is pretty limited or the "tilt down" when mounted to an overhead grid/truss etc. Does this bother you? Do you think you'd prefer a different yoke design that was extra tall to accommodate a greater range of motion? Jolekos share this issue too vs. your ETC LED and tungsten "non-modified" lights. Aputure mentioned they took feedback on board to let the 300d ii rotate 360 degrees. I don't think this range needs to be matched with the spotlight but surely it'd be more useful to at least have the back end be able to pass through the yoke (at the expense of a taller footprint?
It’s another variable you’d need to weigh when deciding which unit to use. None of these units will win in all categories. Beyond that, there are adapters that can be made to give yourself a little extra tilt. Alan made his own for a Skypanel S60 to give it more tilt. Then he decided he could make it even better, so I bought his first attempt... it is especially useful with Octabanks (MTG #93). So sure, it would be nice, but let’s appreciate the versatility of the jokers and 300d... it’s not like you can put a DaylightHD ellipsoidal into an OCTA or a lantern or use it without the lens:)
A lot of the younger folks have asked me why don't you use all LEDs? I tell them for the same reason you don't have a tool box full of just hammers. LEDs are great tools but they can't do what HMI lights can do especially Outdoors.
@@Menapho Mole Richardson makes good led fresnel lights. The very bright ones are big and heavy. I noticed that's the drawback to high output LED lights they tend to be big and bulky because they need a massive cooling system to work.
Yup, getting all the boxes checked in terms of what you want from a lighting unit is difficult. We all want the magic lighting fixture that is compact, lightweight, super bright, dimmable, color tunable, networkable, and inexpensive... but until then we’ll have to surround ourselves with merely excellent lighting fixtures that have many strengths and a few weaknesses:)
a side note the ETC Lustr LED unit dont play nice in a scenes with haze as each emitted RGB would leave color streamed light trails vs a solid trail of "white"
Patterns, hard cuts, hyper focus and intensity. Back when we used fresnels on a regular basis, we would rig branches with leaves or celo/wood cookies or cut foam core or Charlie bars in front of fixtures to create organic looking patterns, but then we got used to using theatrical ellipsoidals to cut down on all the extra stands. We would have a box of 20 different patterns to choose from, different barrels from wide to narrow, and then choose how out of focus we wanted them to be. It was a great time saver. You can use doors or flags to cut it, but say you want to bounce a backlight or scratch rather than go direct, it’s a lot easier to just cut the exact shape of the bounce with the shutter blades. Like Dedolight projection lenses, focusing a light with an ellipsoidal gives you a hyper focused beam and intensity that is different enough from a fresnel to be very useful. A fresnel is a nice look too:) Hope that helps?
I started in theatrical lighting and was amazed when I first witnessed the output, quality of light and build quality of the halogen Dedolight. Before that the go to fixture for that application was a halogen ETC Source 4 Zoom. Now with LEDs there are many other great options too. Fantastic to see the innovation, options and useable hybrids. Same thing has happened with moving lights - spot, profile, beam and wash (and hybrids), and now many great LED versions that have knocked out some quite high output discharge lamps. Will be interesting to see how the Aputure LED panel works out, when they release is. It's moving fast and there are many great options from different brands. Which is what's so great about working in a technical and creative field.
The Aputure seemed to have one of the most even beam spread, the tungsten seemed to have an awful hot spot. Is that typical with tungsten ellipsoidals, or is it just exaggerated by the camera's dynamic range?
The hot spot and color variance was obvious enough that I want to look into that further and figure out what’s goin on. The Aputure’s even spread was impressive for sure.
It looks to me that the tungsten ellipsoidal needed to be "bench focused." There are two knobs on the back of a Source Four to control the depth and x-y position of the lamp inside the reflector. This will correct the field to make it much more even. Looks like the lamp was off center and also needed to be backed out a bit (to smooth out the hot spot). (sorry for the comment on a three-year-old video)
Ellipsoidal fixtures are, in my opinion, the most underrated and versatile fixtures on the truck. Need some texture? Add a gobo. Need to bring up room ambiance? Hit it into the ceiling. Need to hit a single point on a wall? Use the cutters. Thank you for doing this side-by-side comparison.
Thank you for adding to the discussion, Tyler!
Luke Seerveld Of course! Gaffers gotta stick together. I did a feature a few years back where we had 6 750w lekos and 2 of the lustr 2s. Used all of them religiously for everything under the sun. People don’t use lekos nearly as often as they could.
Thanks for sharing. Super helpful comparisons between these lighting options.
Your videos are so packed full of great info. Thanks for sharing!
thanks for the comparisons. Was hoping for CRI reading. Great video.
Totally get it. I’m sorry I’m not very good about technical details:) Better to check Andrew Lock’s channel: Gaffer & Gear.
the reason for the second light, ETC LED, having lower output at 3200k is likely because in the bicolor led units they mix whatever the bottom of their WB range LEDs, ie 2800k or whatever the lowest is on this light, and the highest, 7400k or whatever the top is, to achieve maximum output at daylight, all LEDs from low temp to high temp firing at max output.
Thank you for all Luke
5:55 Exactly my reaction. Pretty wild!
Thanks for the great comparison. Personally, I love my 750 tungsten units. Even more so that I picked them up for 1/2 the price of an HMI globe. Used market is great for these units, as the LED's are taking over with many stage venues. Can't blame them, as the power draw, heat and cool-down time isn't always fun to deal with. But bang for buck, I couldn't be happier.
When you were using the gobo at about 4:40 you said it wouldn't be called colour fringing. What is this effect and how does it differ from colour fringing? Especially as you referred to the same effect as "colour fringing" at about 9 minutes in? Is fringing only an effect of the lens? Sorry to sound pernickety, I am coming to this as a total beginner so I wanna understand these concepts properly without making assumptions of my own.
Good question! Definitely check out part 1 and 2 of Andrew Luck’s Gaffer&Gear episodes on the spotlight:
th-cam.com/video/TmACo7ZIHQY/w-d-xo.html
Andrew does a great job pointing out the color fringing. Sadly, I’m not so precise or, it turns out, knowledgeable:) What was messing me up was not the color fringing per se, which is what happens at the edges of the shadow created by the gobo, but the fact that the center area of the gobo was casting a different color temp than the outer area. This was true for the tungsten and HMI units but not the Aputure using the same gobo. The Aputure was obviously using a different barrel, so that leads me to believe there’s something about my other barrels... but I don’t have an answer at the moment. While we were taping the comparison we didn’t have time to suss it out so I just forged ahead. That said, it made the Aputure’s limited fringing and center to outside evenness that much more impressive.
It’s persnickety😂
@@meetthegaffer Not to be finicky, but... ;P
grammarist.com/usage/pernickety-persnickety/
@@meetthegaffer Thank you very much for your response, and I will definitely be checking out those videos right now.
Btw, a quick follow up question. At ~11:40 the graphics state that it could be a "burnt out" gobo pattern causing the variation in colour temp. Even if that could actually be down to the barrel instead of the gobo, what is a burnt out gobo? I imagine recognising that would be something that would take years of experience to pick out, but I was wondering if you could explain to me what I should hypothetically look out for in the light quality, and what it means in terms of the physical changes that have occurred in the gobo itself?
Sorry to be asking all these questions. Out of interest -I've only just started on the "Meet the Gaffer" series, but do you ever do live chats or viewer questions videos?
Sometimes gobos/patterns that have an intricate design with fine cuts can get bent or ripped and often get kind of a burn or reddish tint on the gobo itself. That doesn't mean you can't use it, but it's something to watch because loose bits can get caught in the slot when you're sliding the gobo holder in or out. I don't use patterns on every job, so it's probably a better idea to ask longevity questions of a person working in legit theater. I still need to suss out the color shift issue of center to outside the gobo projection.
I have done one podcast (Filmmakers Drinking Bourbon #99) but have not done anything live, unless you include local guest lighting classes or Cinegear. If someone has a live show and wants to bring me on as a guest for Q&A I would be open to that, but I don't really have the bandwidth to get up to speed on a live event casting at the moment:) I'm happy just to get an episode a week out the door... and even that is kind of a hack job compared to a lot of other channels. If you want to come up with a list of questions, I can do an episode where I try to "answer viewer questions" a type of mail bag segment... and maybe that will become a thing, like Travel Talk?
Excellent break down!
I would like to know how these lights (and modifiers) deffer in WB and output from the center verse the edge of the light.
Right. Didn’t have time to get too deep in the weeds... we shot that in an hour. I want to suss out the color variance issues on the tungsten and HMI in the gobo patterns... and clean the lenses in my barrels:)
What I love most about the Aputure series is the Bowen’s mount, which you can add hundreds of photography soft box options for shaping light.
The little remote control is also a great feature. Being able to adjust multiple Aputure lights while at the camera is so convenient.
It’s growing on me:)
Really nice video, great info and great quality, thanks!
Thank you, Hiski!
Good infos ! Thank you
Love this video!
A great comparison!
Can you add an iris to the Aputure 300d II? Also, does it have levers so you can shape the light?
Yes and yes:)
Great video. Do you mind sharing what camera you shot this on? Thanks
GH5 and GH5S. I believe the GH5 had the lumix 12-35 I and the GH5 had a Veydra prime, like the 16mm or so.
Well if I ever wanted a quick and dirty stained glass effect in a background, 5:45 has me covered.
Exactly:)
I'm surprised that the Aputure 300d ii had only half the intensity as the Joker 400. The Joker 400 draws something like 2x the watts, and produces a ton of heat from those watts, so I expected the 300 watt LED to have much closer light output. Good to know!
I really like the look that the Aladdin light mat was producing. What size was it and how far was it from you off camera? If you have a BTS shot showing it's location, would you be able to put it up at patreon? Thanks!
So many things get compared to 400 jokers, but you really need to see it yourself before you believe it. That said, I was impressed with the 300d II/spotlight combo. I look forward to using it in the field.
The Aladdin is a 3’x3’ fabric lite that folds up to 1/6th of that. It was maybe 6’ away and was outfitted with a DoP snapbag and snapgrid. I think some of the guys took stills... let me see if I can dig one up.
Hi Thomas, the 300d ii draws 350w vs. 400w for the joker2, I'm not sure why you think it's 2x?
@@robertnorton5430 The specs from K5600 for the 400 say it draws 5.5a at 115v, which is about 630w. That is about 2x the draw from the plug versus the 300d mk ii. (Aputure's specs say max 350w draw.) But the 400 turns a lot more of that wattage into heat, not light. A standard 100w incandescent bulb puts out more than 95w of heat - how many 100w bulb equivalents is the heat output of a 400? 3? 4? More? (I can't find an actual number on that.) Ignoring the power lost in the ballast, that's probably 300w or less coming out as light. Luke measured the intensity for the 400 with the leko as 360fc at 10:50, then the 300d at 140fc at 15:40. Half of 360fc is 180fc - so the intensity of the 400 is more than 2x that of the 300d with the spot modifiers. (I suspect the leko system for the Jokers is more efficient than for the Apurture lights...)
Thomas Donalek, some BTS pics are now up on Patreon. Hope that helps. I was very fortunate to have a bunch of guys stay after we wrapped to pull off the comparison episode.
Thanks for another informative review.
I have the 300d on order and intend to add the spotlight attachment. Any suggestion regarding which degree angle is fairly versatile?
For interviews where you may be in a more confined space and wish to get the widest pattern with the shortest throw, I would go with a 50 degree lens, but I think the widest currently avail is 36 degrees. If you need a longer throw or plan to use this set up for scenes needing smaller areas of light, then the tighter barrels will be better.
@@meetthegaffer Thanks for the reply. What about bounced light applications? Does a smaller angle work OK for that?
It all depends, but yes, I use the 50 and 36 the most and then for events where you need the throw it's great to have 26 and even 19:)
This is exactly what I wanted!
Great!
I used a baby LED leko recently (forget the brand name), (a ¼ the size of standard leko), but the output wasn’t there, so we went with Feliix lights instead to fill the background.
Yup. Size matters:)
Things worth considering. Color meters aren't quite there yet. It's kind of rare that two will read exactly the same, even with the c7000 or c800's. You need to also gel the LED's rather than tune to color, even when it's just on the tungsten to daylight spectrum, so you're going to be losing foot-candles if you want to retain color. The color shift is there, and it will crush colors in your spectrum. Last but not least, hot spots, I don't know what else to say there. Tungsten is true, earn yer burns, kids.
“Earn your burns” = words time live by!
Hi luke, thank you for a Great video . Is there a possibility to make a video for hive lighting super hornet 575-c with different C-SERIES ACCESSORIES ?
Funny story, I had a 575-c from the Kickstarter, but never found a good way to incorporate it into my work, so I donated it to a DP who said he thought he could use it. I think he is happy with it, but alas it was not the right light for me:(
@@meetthegaffer that's interesting I didn't know they had it on Kickstarter .
hivelighting.com/c-series/575-c/
same light ?
looks really good on paper :)
I know this is not the SpotLight Mini, but I imagine it will be similar. I'm wondering with your experience using this one, whether you think using the Spotlight Mini + 18 blade iris + 60X can help achieve a narrower beam on the 60x, maybe 6-8 degrees, like the Dedo fixtures, and without any cons?
Ping me offline: lseerveld@gmail.com
Hi Luke,
Thanks for the video. With the aputure on a light stand the "tilt up" is pretty limited or the "tilt down" when mounted to an overhead grid/truss etc. Does this bother you? Do you think you'd prefer a different yoke design that was extra tall to accommodate a greater range of motion? Jolekos share this issue too vs. your ETC LED and tungsten "non-modified" lights. Aputure mentioned they took feedback on board to let the 300d ii rotate 360 degrees. I don't think this range needs to be matched with the spotlight but surely it'd be more useful to at least have the back end be able to pass through the yoke (at the expense of a taller footprint?
It’s another variable you’d need to weigh when deciding which unit to use. None of these units will win in all categories. Beyond that, there are adapters that can be made to give yourself a little extra tilt. Alan made his own for a Skypanel S60 to give it more tilt. Then he decided he could make it even better, so I bought his first attempt... it is especially useful with Octabanks (MTG #93). So sure, it would be nice, but let’s appreciate the versatility of the jokers and 300d... it’s not like you can put a DaylightHD ellipsoidal into an OCTA or a lantern or use it without the lens:)
@@meetthegaffer Good points Luke.
A lot of the younger folks have asked me why don't you use all LEDs? I tell them for the same reason you don't have a tool box full of just hammers. LEDs are great tools but they can't do what HMI lights can do especially Outdoors.
Leo Marketing aren’t there new LED HMI’s Leo? And if there are and I just didn’t make that up. How good are they?
@@Menapho Mole Richardson makes good led fresnel lights. The very bright ones are big and heavy. I noticed that's the drawback to high output LED lights they tend to be big and bulky because they need a massive cooling system to work.
Not sure what you are referring to here...
Yup, getting all the boxes checked in terms of what you want from a lighting unit is difficult. We all want the magic lighting fixture that is compact, lightweight, super bright, dimmable, color tunable, networkable, and inexpensive... but until then we’ll have to surround ourselves with merely excellent lighting fixtures that have many strengths and a few weaknesses:)
@@meetthegaffer it's a great time to be alive sir! Patiently waiting for the next big thing.
Thank you for this
a side note the ETC Lustr LED unit dont play nice in a scenes with haze as each emitted RGB would leave color streamed light trails vs a solid trail of "white"
Interesting note! That totally makes sense. Guess I haven’t worked on any music videos lately:)
Hi Luke, is the Aputure Leko mount available for retail? I was looking a few days ago and it wasn't available yet. Thanks for sharing your tests!
As I understand it, they are available as of noon today, but best to check with a reseller:)
@@meetthegaffer Ahhh! You're on the bleeding edge! Cool thank you!
Is it safe to use with the 600D on full power?
I’m sure people do it. I use the spotlight mount with the 300d/x units.
I might have missed this in your video... Were you using the 36 degree lens on the aputure?
Yes. According to the Gaffer and Gear channel Aputure is working on a 50 degree, which will be a go to for many folks, I would think.
Why would you use the barrel instead of a frenel lens?
Patterns, hard cuts, hyper focus and intensity.
Back when we used fresnels on a regular basis, we would rig branches with leaves or celo/wood cookies or cut foam core or Charlie bars in front of fixtures to create organic looking patterns, but then we got used to using theatrical ellipsoidals to cut down on all the extra stands. We would have a box of 20 different patterns to choose from, different barrels from wide to narrow, and then choose how out of focus we wanted them to be. It was a great time saver.
You can use doors or flags to cut it, but say you want to bounce a backlight or scratch rather than go direct, it’s a lot easier to just cut the exact shape of the bounce with the shutter blades.
Like Dedolight projection lenses, focusing a light with an ellipsoidal gives you a hyper focused beam and intensity that is different enough from a fresnel to be very useful.
A fresnel is a nice look too:)
Hope that helps?
Luke Seerveld Absolutely, good info.
I started in theatrical lighting and was amazed when I first witnessed the output, quality of light and build quality of the halogen Dedolight.
Before that the go to fixture for that application was a halogen ETC Source 4 Zoom. Now with LEDs there are many other great options too.
Fantastic to see the innovation, options and useable hybrids. Same thing has happened with moving lights - spot, profile, beam and wash (and hybrids), and now many great LED versions that have knocked out some quite high output discharge lamps.
Will be interesting to see how the Aputure LED panel works out, when they release is. It's moving fast and there are many great options from different brands. Which is what's so great about working in a technical and creative field.
There's a typo in the URL to the studio, it should be intrepidstudios.net
Got it. You meant in the description and I thought you meant in the video itself:) Thank you!
The Aputure seemed to have one of the most even beam spread, the tungsten seemed to have an awful hot spot. Is that typical with tungsten ellipsoidals, or is it just exaggerated by the camera's dynamic range?
The hot spot and color variance was obvious enough that I want to look into that further and figure out what’s goin on. The Aputure’s even spread was impressive for sure.
It looks to me that the tungsten ellipsoidal needed to be "bench focused." There are two knobs on the back of a Source Four to control the depth and x-y position of the lamp inside the reflector. This will correct the field to make it much more even. Looks like the lamp was off center and also needed to be backed out a bit (to smooth out the hot spot).
(sorry for the comment on a three-year-old video)
@gvitellaro All good! You are most likely correct!
Hi Luke! Do you know if the 300D mkII is flicker free at 1000 fps? Thanks!
I don’t know, but I will ask.
@@meetthegaffer Thanks!
I’m told the unit is flicker free up to 1/2000 shutter. Hope that helps!
thanks!
thanks
Keeep it up
First! Hahaha
Ha!
:-/
Its not about being first. Its about being 49th!
@@ScottBalkum HA!
15:16 is that a jojo reference
Not sure what that is... so probably not:)