How to use the Mamiya C330 TLR Square format film camera.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ย. 2024
- How to use Mamiya C330 and get good photographs with a Square Format film camera takes work and some practice. If you are interested in seeing the results you can get by using a 50 year old camera, this may be of interest to you. I decided to get out and take some landscape images on Ektar 100 print film. I got some landscape images and also managed to take a photograph of a small still life set up. The photographs are shown at the end of the video. This is not a difficult camera to use, when you know how and after not using it for close to 10 years it was nice to get out there and use it. I was quite happy with the results.
Flawless operation of the TLR from start to finish - and a good ‘onion shot’ especially. Thank you 😊
Hi, Thanks for the kind comment. It's an intimidating camera to look at but quite simple in operation and give nice results.
Wonderful video. Very educational. Thank you
RS. Canada
Thank you for the kind comment! Glad I could help!
The Mamiya C 330 is such a magnificent piece of equipment. I have one with the 105 mm lens. Great video.
Hi Ted, Yes if you can get used to the weight it's a great camera. More importantly it takes great images.
I am going back to analog with the exact same camera. Your video was extremely helpful by answering all the questions I had in regards to metering... Thank you.
Happy to be of some help Michel. It's a great camera, even better if you have more than one lens with it.
Very nice video. But as I recall from film photography days, when taking an "incident" light reading, normally one would point the dome back towards / straight at the camera position/lens ... not hold it flat (more or less facing the sky). The idea is that the incident dome more or less stands for / mimics, say the face of the subject, with its contours and possible shadow under the chin, etc. ...and the meter then averages this all out and gives a pretty good exposure. Holding it flat/towards the light source/sky, one would tend to make the light meter "think" that the subject is receiving somewhat more light than the meter is designed (in incident mode) for.
But by rating the film at 64, this may all work out !! :-)
For studio portraits and using this meter as a flash meter, I would tend to agree with what you are saying. However, I was attempting to demonstrate that the incident method of metering could be used from my position providing that the subject was in the same light. In this case the far off landscape. It is always good to know more than one solution to any problem. In this case you could use a refective meter or an incident meter and get good results.
The seven Mamiya Sekor C lenses comparing to 24 x 36 lenses:
55 mm > 31 mm
65 mm > 36 mm
80 mm > 45 mm
105 mm > 58 mm
135 mm > 74 mm
180 mm > 99 mm
250 mm > 136 mm
I have the 80mm and the 135mm. Both very nice lenses.
Thanks for the video.. Well done!!
Thank you, Hope it helped you.
Great vid. Did u adjust these in post?
Hi Yul, Yes I did, but I usually only adjust contrast and saturation by a very small amount. When scanning film, depending on the scanner you use results can vary by quite a bit. The scanner I use is an Epson Perfection 4990 that I bought about 15 years ago and it has served me very well since then.
@@SecondSquarephotography When in reflective did u meter for the sky or the house in the background? Thank you
@@RocketinExile I metered from the background. If I was to meter from the sky the image would very likely be under-exposed.
@@SecondSquarephotography thank you this all very helpful. So you used the reading as given even though it’s giving you a reading for middle gray?
@@SecondSquarephotography thank you