Good advice about the pulley. The noise the rod made as it passed through the eye bolt reminds me of my violin lessons in the 6th grade. I saw photos of old-time Japanese swordsmiths using files to shape the blades, and that's what got me to look this up. Thanks for sharing your experiences, both good and not so good.
I’ve been battling with myself making a woodworking marking knife for myself. I used steel from an old saw blade. I’m going to give this a try when I get home. Thank you
Yes.. you grind on the highest position to get it to the centre line... then slowly lower the eyelet raising the grind height until satisfied.. you don’t establish the shallow angle from the get go... round over the plunge side of the file... beautiful sweeping grinds easy
Thank you so much for your constructive feedback - it’s so wonderful to be in a supportive and friendly community where we help each other, makes me feel sad for people that need to criticise others constantly...
Thanks for your instructions video mate, really well done. I have seen a few others and yours is one of, if not the best. I’m getting into knife making from blanks and this really helped. I’ve also read to leave about 1/16th either side of the center line so it doesn’t crack when heat treating/tempering, after tempering bring it to center line with finer files, grinding then sandpaper. Either way mate, thank you for you time on this, came with chuckles too 👍👍
Excellent design this is the one I plan to build and thank you for the video and demonstration and Hello from the USA 🇺🇸 State of Illinois also New friend here of your channel
I'd probably make the pulley "moveable" across the board from back to front on some kind of "tracks" with a stopscrew, that way you probably wouldn't need to adjust the height of the part where the knife rests? I think I'm gonna try something like that. Thanks!
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing your experiences. I built one with inspiration from Gough Custom’s design, where I used an M10 eye and an M8 rod. Thankfully for me it doesn’t make that awful racket! Glad it turned out well. A very useful tool.
You might’ve spotted that my basic design was based on his video - then added a few extras here and there... yeah, that noise was awful, but glad I fixed it! Have you used yours much...?
Little Tipple I’ve used it in earnest once to make my first knife, a nessmuk design with 10 degree bevels in 01. I set the angles with an inclinometer to assure an even grind. I’m now making a hunting knife, in 1080, with more of a drop point. The bevels will be filed in, using the jig, then finished with my new 1x30 belt grinder. The jig is, at my novice stage, the most assured way of not over grinding. It offers a lot of control.
You absolutely can - that’s what all the holes are for, and so as you move it forwards or back it’ll change the angle... as for angles, at the moment I’m going by eye - I hadn’t bought an angle measure, but I was able to get a full height straight bevel on a piece 2mmx 30mm blade height, if that helps...?
So what i did with my steel guide rod to get away from the hose clamps idea. I just tack welded my file to the rod. Having several mig welders definitely has its advantages. Then when that side of the file is shot. Just cut the spot tack and flip the file and bingo you're back in action. Then when that side is shot, that file goes into the box of steel for future builds. Do yourself a favor, buy the better made files. Not the Chinese made files. I like the files from Mexico or made in Canada if im not buying one made in the USA. You get more life from them, and when you're done, you have better quality steel to make more knives from. Some of my best selling knives have been made from a old horse shoeing file. The ones with the large triangles. The customers love that diamond pattern on them,Especially when I add some bluing to them and give that coating the stressed look. Nice video Sir. #Forgeon
@@LittleTipple Been there done that brother. So I started welding as a teenager with stick back in the early 80's. Then bought a 110v Lincoln 135 Mig to do little stuff and learn the Mig techniques. Then upgrade to a Lincoln 180HD 220v. That made a huge difference in the strength of the welds on anything more than sheet metal. Now I'm learning to Tig weld. It definitely has its advantages over stick and Mig for sure. You can buy some pretty affordable welders today for pretty cheap, that will do hobby type work.
I know I am a bit late to the party here. But you already had tapped holes in the base board, why not just use them and a couple toe clamps (like they do on a machine table) on each end ?
I think essentially, the answer to “why not use toe clamps” is because I had no idea they existed - now that I do, that looks like exactly what I need! Thank you!
you're right, a height adjustable one would be better, but because i had the issues with the eye-screw, the wheel worked better, and is much harder to adjust the height of... and also, it's useful to have the range of options for angles.
@@LittleTipple anything is possible... Keeping the center spine straight, where the 2 grind angles meet, from ricaso, down to the tip on both sides is going to be the challenge I think. Why don't you do it & make a video on it 😁
Good advice about the pulley. The noise the rod made as it passed through the eye bolt reminds me of my violin lessons in the 6th grade.
I saw photos of old-time Japanese swordsmiths using files to shape the blades, and that's what got me to look this up. Thanks for sharing your experiences, both good and not so good.
I’ve been battling with myself making a woodworking marking knife for myself. I used steel from an old saw blade. I’m going to give this a try when I get home. Thank you
Yes.. you grind on the highest position to get it to the centre line... then slowly lower the eyelet raising the grind height until satisfied.. you don’t establish the shallow angle from the get go... round over the plunge side of the file... beautiful sweeping grinds easy
Thank you so much for your constructive feedback - it’s so wonderful to be in a supportive and friendly community where we help each other, makes me feel sad for people that need to criticise others constantly...
Thanks for your instructions video mate, really well done. I have seen a few others and yours is one of, if not the best. I’m getting into knife making from blanks and this really helped. I’ve also read to leave about 1/16th either side of the center line so it doesn’t crack when heat treating/tempering, after tempering bring it to center line with finer files, grinding then sandpaper. Either way mate, thank you for you time on this, came with chuckles too 👍👍
Excellent design this is the one I plan to build and thank you for the video and demonstration and Hello from the USA 🇺🇸 State of Illinois also New friend here of your channel
Thank you very much! Let me know how you get on!
@@LittleTipple sure will thanks again
You’ve given me some great ideas. Especially the pulley. I’m filing a katana and bevels and tapering and straightness are challenging
Sounds great! let me know how you get on!
I'd probably make the pulley "moveable" across the board from back to front on some kind of "tracks" with a stopscrew, that way you probably wouldn't need to adjust the height of the part where the knife rests? I think I'm gonna try something like that. Thanks!
Hi. I found sanding the guidrod and spraying a bit of q20 or some lubricant helps a lot with the noise. 👍🏻
Sounds like a good plan - I tried the lubricant, but sanding it smooth would definitely have helped!
Niceee idea broo!
Instead of teflon tape you can use zip ties just two at the bottom of the eyelet works well cuts down on the noise.
For the eye hole noise I cut the finger off a glove and poked it through, then the rod through them both.
What angle do you think is best, I've heard around 10degrees works well, I think an angle finder might be. a useful device!
You can use lubricant grease for eye screw
I tried that, but ended up with a greasy stick, and no reduction in noise - perhaps I just needed thicker grease...
seems like a person without a milling machine could build something like thiswith a vise on the end to hold parts andshape them
Yeah the noise is very annoying mine is the same way I'm going 2 try fixing mine when I get a chance is with a Heim joint maybe u can try that.
The wheel I’ve got is working quite well at the moment, but yeah, that helm/rose joint looks like a good option too!
Any way I could get the measurements you use for yours? Looking to make one but don’t know how I would dimension it
How thin you file the edge before ht??
Is it possible to file a thin edge after ht??
//firefighter from sweden
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
I built one with inspiration from Gough Custom’s design, where I used an M10 eye and an M8 rod. Thankfully for me it doesn’t make that awful racket!
Glad it turned out well. A very useful tool.
You might’ve spotted that my basic design was based on his video - then added a few extras here and there... yeah, that noise was awful, but glad I fixed it! Have you used yours much...?
Little Tipple
I’ve used it in earnest once to make my first knife, a nessmuk design with 10 degree bevels in 01. I set the angles with an inclinometer to assure an even grind.
I’m now making a hunting knife, in 1080, with more of a drop point. The bevels will be filed in, using the jig, then finished with my new 1x30 belt grinder.
The jig is, at my novice stage, the most assured way of not over grinding. It offers a lot of control.
Can you make it so your Pulley moves closer or further from the blade to change the angle? What angles are you getting on this currently?
You absolutely can - that’s what all the holes are for, and so as you move it forwards or back it’ll change the angle... as for angles, at the moment I’m going by eye - I hadn’t bought an angle measure, but I was able to get a full height straight bevel on a piece 2mmx 30mm blade height, if that helps...?
So what i did with my steel guide rod to get away from the hose clamps idea. I just tack welded my file to the rod. Having several mig welders definitely has its advantages. Then when that side of the file is shot. Just cut the spot tack and flip the file and bingo you're back in action. Then when that side is shot, that file goes into the box of steel for future builds. Do yourself a favor, buy the better made files. Not the Chinese made files. I like the files from Mexico or made in Canada if im not buying one made in the USA. You get more life from them, and when you're done, you have better quality steel to make more knives from. Some of my best selling knives have been made from a old horse shoeing file. The ones with the large triangles. The customers love that diamond pattern on them,Especially when I add some bluing to them and give that coating the stressed look. Nice video Sir. #Forgeon
Thank you for that! Welding isn't my strong point, but definitely something i need to learn!
@@LittleTipple Been there done that brother. So I started welding as a teenager with stick back in the early 80's. Then bought a 110v Lincoln 135 Mig to do little stuff and learn the Mig techniques. Then upgrade to a Lincoln 180HD 220v. That made a huge difference in the strength of the welds on anything more than sheet metal. Now I'm learning to Tig weld. It definitely has its advantages over stick and Mig for sure. You can buy some pretty affordable welders today for pretty cheap, that will do hobby type work.
Might be a dat late and a dollar short, but a lot of guys use a piece of raw hide in the eye bolt.
what brand use handy file?
I'm not sure - I got them off ebay, as just 12inch flat bastard files...
I know I am a bit late to the party here. But you already had tapped holes in the base board, why not just use them and a couple toe clamps (like they do on a machine table) on each end ?
I think essentially, the answer to “why not use toe clamps” is because I had no idea they existed - now that I do, that looks like exactly what I need! Thank you!
Why so many holes for that part that determines the angle? Height adjustable one would be better i think. English bad yes
you're right, a height adjustable one would be better, but because i had the issues with the eye-screw, the wheel worked better, and is much harder to adjust the height of... and also, it's useful to have the range of options for angles.
can you share the vice measurements in Turkish?
Take a Little Bit Oli.😜
could you share the measurements in Turkish?
Chisel grind on both sides.. lol
I’m sorry, I must’ve missed the joke. Did I describe it as a chisel grind on both sides in the video?
Thinking about mking a dagger (diamond cross section) utilizing a filling jig, is it possible??
it should be, clamping to keep the edges in line to each other will be the challenge, but definitely possible.
@@LittleTipple anything is possible... Keeping the center spine straight, where the 2 grind angles meet, from ricaso, down to the tip on both sides is going to be the challenge I think. Why don't you do it & make a video on it 😁