Sorry I’m late! Really interesting. Sounds to me, the Callaham added more mids. Thickened it out a bit, dropped some highs the tiniest bit. At least through the mics etc. I prefer Blue with the Callaham. Great vid!
"Two bits of wood bolted together". Spoken like a true Stratman. They we're made for us commoners to not only play, but also repair. Intonation....the bane of my existence.
Indeed! Guitars are, sadly, one of the few things a regular person even *can* tinker with these days. So much other stuff is just meant to be disposable: use it till it doesn't work right and just throw it in the landfill and buy another one. Or the other end of the spectrum, like your car, where you now need a whole garage and a lift and a special (very expensive) computer just to get a basic tune-up done...
yeah, glad all my five strat copies are set, just tried the EHX Silencer pedal, really good! Ive got another Noise Reductioner in my ZOOM G2, but this one in front of it and its dead quiet with vwry heavy leads, and still enough sustain...even found an old setting I like very much, and I also like the Silencer with some clean tone, colours the tone soo minimally!...Pedals are an inspiration to me...
I truly was not expecting to hear a difference, especially here on TH-cam, but I could. The Callaham had a noticeable chime to it. The Fender bridge sounded wonderful but the Callaham , wow. Fascinating demonstration. Thanks Mick.
I love my main guitar (strat) more than I do most people, but I too am not as precious with it as you are, so I completely understand the way you treat Blue... It was fun watching this even if I did not learn anything I did not already know, but that is not why I tune in any way... I just like spending my time with you guys! Thank you for spending your time with me Mick, it is much appreciated. Cheers from Croatia!
I'm at about Lenny on my first watch. So far, it mirrors my own findings when I put a callaham on my strat. In short, it pushed it toward a Tele. Gave a faster and sharper attack, and a rise in the frequency of it's most forward voice. Dynamically, it made it better at louder and rock-leaning, but worse at delicate and notey-chordy lower gain stuff. So, in the end, it made it less what I wanted from a strat, so it came back off. I still have it. If I want to make a rock strat I'll use it. But, for me, I reach for a strat when I want touchy feely and massive Dynamic range. Cheers! Thanks for this!
Fret, Flat, Forward. The mnemonic was worth the whole video for me. I always had a hard time remembering which way the bridge goes and had to go to the book. Not anymore, thanks!
Mick. Mick, please. Stop mentioning how people will complain in the comments. We all know that. They know they. They don't need to be the focus. Your credibility is valid. None of this will stop me enjoying your work. Thanks for all of it.
The main reason to get an upgraded strat bridge is for better trem action.. you nailed it. Took forever into this video to get to it but I’m glad your brought it up. Look at someone like Bill Frisell. MONSTER player. Also a monster tinkerer. He’s Frankenstein’d a bunch of guitars in the same pursuit. Overall the conclusion is the same: how does the neck feel? How does the guitar sound? And it’s usually worth pursuing the tone. Great series 👍
Hi Mick, great episode! Soldering tips from someone working in mass produced electronics: When soldering a heat sink move the iron around the pad. In your case the claw is your heatsink (large body of metal or heat conductive material) just move it in circles where you'd like the wire soldered. For soldering iron tip preservation, clean the tip BEFORE use and put extra solder on the tip AFTER use.
I'm very far from being an expert either, but I think you're right that action would come before intonation, because when you raise or lower the strings, you (respectively) increase or decrease the tension and pitch. This occurred to me recently when I upped the string gauge on my Les Paul, and then raised the strings a bit, and the intonation had changed.
Slightly brighter in the upper mids as everyone has noted. Then again that Two Rock makes any strat sound like heaven. Mick, I adore that blue strat and your humble and no nonsense approach to your gear. Loving this blue strat vlog.
Doyle Bramhall is keeping me company tonight along with Catherine....(insert momentary pause to make us think “shit! Is he really there!?!?). Well played Mick...well played. 🤣 I too have gone the route of the Callaham on my #1 Strat. I was very pleased with the craftsmanship and tonal improvements
The last 5 minutes of that vlog should be required viewing for every guitarist on the ‘tone quest’ that we are all on!! I think, to often, we get so bogged down in the ‘cork sniffery’ of buying gear and forget what is important. Playing, communicating, being inspired or just practicing. Great vlog Mick!!
The Callaham bridge was brighter, but in a nice way to my ear. It was clearer and seemed to have a slight bit more presence. Driven they both sounded great. Good sounding axe and it has a great tone either way...I think the Callaham was a clear winner for band situations as your are gonna have your zone nailed...
Mick, I find your attitude towards the delicacies of the guitar maintenance refreshing ie in terms of should have a neck rest/ protection under the body for when turning the guitar etc but not being overly bothered about it and correctly stating that’s it’s just 2 bits of wood bolted together. I find It particularly refreshing as I’m a PRS owner and a member of several PRS groups where the level of presciousness (if that’s a word) over the guitars is laughable at times!
‘Do it properly’ ’but it’s the way I like ’yeah but I can’t play your guitars’ ‘yeah but I can’t play your 9s that feel like they’re touching the frets’ ‘But that’s the way they’re supposed to be set up’ ‘...’
With regards to using something to cushion the guitar, my boss at the first guitar shop I worked at used old sweatshirts to cushion guitars he was repairing and boxers to polish them. Worked a charm!
To my ear, there is a clear difference, especially unplugged. The new bridge sounded more chimey and resonant, and less "old" - which is probably all down to that lower-mids muddiness you talk about. Whether the sound is "better" for That Pedal Shed is debatable, but as you always say - it can sound perfect on its own and then be lost when the rest of the band kicks in. Sounds like the Callahan has the clarity and presence you need to cut through and be heard. Loving the journey, and can't wait to hear what those custom pickups sound like! PS Don't forget to upgrade that ground wire...
This video will be of great value for my install. The original bridge/saddle on my 74 strat have "string-worn" grooves which is the main reason I'm considering this Callaham. It already has a Warmoth compound radius neck with jumbo stainless frets, locking tuners and an Everything Axe loaded pickguard with Seymour Duncan pickups. I've had the old bridge pretty locked down ( no wang bar use) but am looking forward to a bit of tremolo bar use with the new bridge.
On hearing Mick talk about his 'heart breaking' over removing the new strings from his Strat I have the following piece of advice for anyone who owns a Strat and a guitar loaded with a Floyd Rose (as long as it doesn't feature a reverse headstock). Rather than cutting the strings off the Strat simply pull back out through the bridge. Then put them on the Floyd guitar with the ball end at the headstock and cut them to the appropriate length to lock them at the bridge. "But", I hear you say, "what if my strings have lost their brightness! Why would I want to put old strings on my Floyd?" Good question. In answer, and this is based purely on my own experience (although others have told me similar things), new strings on a Floyd loaded guitar tend to sound a bit twangy and are prone to tuning instability. You want that twangy sound on a Strat but not on a Floyd in my opinion. So save a bit of money, help the environment, and recycle your old strings if you can. 👌👍
Hey Mick. Playing for 15 yrs now 27 yrs old. You remind me of my own musical taste and playing style. For what it’s worth listening on TH-cam I just wanted to point out how wonderful your unplugged sound is. Good guitar players sound great sans electricity. No parlor trick effects or gain. Honestly I hold you in such higher esteem as a player just after hearing the playing in the video. Already thought you and Dan are pretty proper guitar players. Seen almost every video now. Cheers
I thought there was a very noticeable difference. The new bridge had more clarity and bite; on the audio anyway . Amazing that it can make such a difference.
I’m with you Mick, it’s not so much about how much better this sounds than that, it’s more about keeping the relationship alive between yourself and the music you want to make. You have to be inspired to play, and sometimes that inspiration comes from a bridge, a nut, or a new guitar. Anyways, cool vlog!
I love going down the rabbit hole and trying new gear, but I’m also aware that spending the same money on an hour skype lesson with Joey Landreth would do more for my playing and tone than replacing any component of my guitars. Fun experiment though.
Nothing beats turning your own strat into a relic yourself. But putting metal bits and dropping tools on the a naked guitar body is making me wince. Ron Thorn Fender Custom Shop masterbuilder suggests this sequence to not go mad going round in a circle. T.R.A.I.N Tune Rod, truss adjustment Action Intonation Noodle (strum, solo, play it and check that everything’s to your satisfaction)
I know you guys don’t want to be a “gear demo” channel, but you teach so much by the quality of info you put out.. it really is a culture shift from the days of gear forums. We all genuinely trust your opinion.. because.. you put forth the effort to put out quality demos.. keep up the good work. This is legacy building stuff.. not just TH-cam videos
I replaced the stock bridge on my 80s Japanese Strat with a Callaham almost three years ago--with trepidation, not knowing if it would be worth the expense. Definite improvement in mids, but also more resonant. The overtones ring out more. This can be heard on your demo as well. It's as much about feel though as it is about tonal qualities in my opinion. I've had a sonic research strobe tuner (the one that Dan likes on the TPS pedal board) for several years and it will give you spot on intonation if that's what you are looking for. Great Vlog, thanks for sharing your journey!!
Here's a soldering tip, as you anticipated. When soldering to a smooth metal surface, such as the back of the trem claw you were connecting the ground wire to, it's a great idea to rough up the surface with sandpaper or a file. This rougher surface is easier for the solder to adhere to, and won't ball up into those shiny little beads that get stuck in your guitar. I do this all the time when wiring pots to ground, as it makes it so much easier for the solder to spread out evenly.
I've got the same guitar, 2008 model, and my new callaham is not as heavy as stock fender (not a huge difference). Which was welcome to me..the slightly different weight in my two strats starts to hurt after about 2 hours of playing. I was definitely questioning if it made a difference in tone as well. Oh well, I did change to their Vintage screw spacing/ but narrow string spacing specs (V/N). The very small change in spacing from E to E has helped me more than anything else I've changed.
beardogyup Ive got a mim body and a vintage spec pat pend trem spare. i wanna swap them. did you dowl the holes and drill vintage spec holes. Then did you change the nut cheers
@@bonkerstv4575 Ahh okay. So my avri 62' has the vintage screw spacing. That's why this vintage/narrow (V/N) callaham was perfect for me. It was exactly what I was looking for. I was so used to the string spacing on my MIM 60's classic series (52mm) So it was basically plug and play. I thought I might have to do some things as you're saying, but callaham came to the rescue. No nut change yet! Inwas rather confused on which spacing came with which models for strats, callaham definitely sorted things out for me!
Hey Mick, Marco here…..great VLOG!!! Really like you taking us on your journey and thought process, can very much relate to the things you are saying and am pretty sure that Blue will evolve into the magical vintage vibe status...especially if you consider that quite a lot of legendary stratocasters actually are parts-casters where neck, bodies and pickups have been swopped to achieve what you have just very nicely described. Am really looking forward to part III!!!
I’m going through the same journey right now having had my 1960 original stolen after 27 years together. I got my hands on a very good MIM and gradually bringing it up to Super Strat level.
You should always put some solder on your iron and then wipe it of on that (moistened) sponge, before you use it. That way it will conduct the heat way better. Ask Dan. :)
I swear from the instagram teaser, I hear the callaham is a bit brighter for the first comparison. I guess the most obvious improvement would be the feel
Erjim Delos Reyes hey I agree. I did this to the Strat I bought in 08. It was not very different in sound with the Callaham but it really feels more quality in your hands, and then it felt a bit better when playing it, and there were less little creaks or mechanical sounds when using it. But it was not a drastic improvement. But I was happy to do it for those reasons. I just kept the old parts in case. It is the feel though you’re right.
Cool video. I put the Callaham bridge on my Classic 60’s Strat ages ago. It made a huge difference! My Strat has a magnesium block though. I immediately noticed more resonance and sustain with a more focused and present upper midrange. I’ve never looked back. Top quality build.
I think the Callahan Bridge sounded better. Maybe it was a bit brighter but I thought it sounded more 'harmonic' - the notes seemed to ring more harmoniously. Whether that was because of the mid scoop and these not clashing, I don't know. I think you ought to have tested to see how the sustain has changed too... Marginal differences can make a lot of difference to the player and do enough of them, they all add up too. Its like finding that 'special' Les Paul by trying lots in a shop where some people will not hear any difference (or very marginal that makes no difference to them) between them all whilst another will hear a lot of difference and be able to categorise them from best to worse...
Mick, you have given me the confidence to fix the intonation on my strat. It's one of those things I've avoided out of fear of making my guitar play worse and I never seem to get around to taking it to a tech. I will update you on how it goes. Keep up the great work.
It's been six months, how did it go? You're not going to ruin your guitar by adjusting the saddles. Go for it, just take your time and make small adjustments at a time. :) Same goes for string height/action etc. Unless the whole thing is completely out of whack or you're having more involved work done, there's really not much reason to pay someone *just* to intonate it and set the action.
You would be able to use 5 springs if you used the “Raw Vintage” spring set. They are slightly lower tension and made a difference for me. I chose them with my Callahan setup. On your guitar the Callahan seems to allow the fundamental of the note to ring louder. Sounds great!
I always say that everything make you feel the guitar more a part of your playing and music is real. If using a penny or a credit card as a pick or even some wood or simply a pair of shoes make you play more present and connected is real!
Man, you need an, "A/B" song. One song to test them all. Pedals, mics, bridges, strings, Dan replacements. That has helped me learn the voices of my mics
Like I said on Instagram for whatever reason after the Callaham Bridge, the guitar has more precieved higher mid range cutting frequencies. Maybe it's the action adjustment or newer strings Idk but it sounds more musical to my ears.
@GEAR of TONES not sure why that's so funny to you. When the range and resonance in which the fundamental frequencies are clearly distinct and dynamic and the harmonic resonances fill out the spectrum is what most people tend to associate with something "musical". This is in contrast to a sound that has less harmonically sympathetic resonance, and more none-musical artifact frequencies are present. Take a snare sound for example, a snare that isn't tuned well or set up well will have more random sounds and less harmonic musical intervals present. Where a snare that sings and sounds sweeter will be harmonically sympathetic with itself and the head, body and actual snare will ideally all be combining to create a more musical sound. Idk I feel like if you don't get what I'm saying then that's fine, we all have different ways of thinking and listening to music. And non musical transients definitely have their place in the character of the sound.
If I may, I would like to share a few tips with you if you don’t already know them. First, string height and neck relief is ALWAYS done before intonation as they greatly effect string length. Second, your bolt-on neck heel may not be sitting flush against the back of the neck pocket, particularly if you have done any trussrod adjustments (where the adjustment screw is in the neck heel) requiring the loosening of the neck to get at the adjustment screw ( a really terrible design if I may say so). When the strings are in tune, very slightly loosen the neck screws, no more than ¼ turn should do. You may hear the wood groan a bit. This is good. It means that the strings have pulled the neck heel up against the back of the neck pocket where it belongs. If it was already there, then no harm. However, getting the neck to sit properly in the pocket will greatly enhance tone, sustain, overall feel and response. Of course, then tighten down the neck screws as much as you can without stripping the screw heads. Third, you’ve probably heard this but I have found that using the 12th fret harmonic to intonate the guitar is not as good a method as actually noting at the 12th fret as well as at the fifth and whatever other frets you wish. You may find that when the intonation is perfect at the 12th fret, it is not so at other frets. This is not at all unusual. In such instance you will want to make compromises so that the guitar is in its best overall intonation. I agree that overly obsessing with intonation is not practical; however, starting off with a good base-line intonation makes later regular tuning and playing a bit better-sounding, I think. Fourth, a bit of good lube and/or #2 pencil lead in the nut slots and under the string trees makes all go much smoother when bending strings and using the vibrato arm. I recently installed a Callahan trem block in my ’62 Strat. Heresy, you say? Well, maybe not since the block that was in it was not original to the guitar anyway but was from a ’64 Strat and was installed many years ago when the vibrato arm broke off in the original block (which I now use as a paperweight). The top of the Callahan block is very smooth, almost mirror-finished and makes excellent contact with the bridge plate. This installation made a big difference in an already legendary-sounding guitar. I found the upper mids were greatly enhanced as well as a slight increase in volume. Also the Callahan vibrato arm is sooo much better with no slack at all. A good bit of rabbit-holing, for sure. I know that you are trying to make “Blue” as good as it can be and I agree that you should. However, notwithstanding the great expense of it, I think that what you really require is a good pre-CBS Strat. I know that you know how magical they are and also that they’re not all equal. The good (best) ones are hard to find as players don’t usually part with them. Still…
Callanhan stuff is awesome all my guitars get their hardware within a week of buy a new axe build quality quality is high engineering grade not pressed steel more of a hand made feel.
Hey mick if you see this, FWIW, i largely had a similar experience - the higher frequencies tend to be tighter and generally the sound is a little more ‘clean’. Mine’s a 56CS ash, and i put in a callaham block but kept the fender plate. It tightened the sound considerably and i put raw vintage saddles which softened the attack just a tad. But the most significant change happened when i installed the raw vintage springs, which added a little ‘reverb-like’ quality to the sound. I like the tension on the bridge as well. This is a topic that struck a chord with me and just wanted to reach out and add to your library of anecdotes; hope it will be of some use in some way, some day. Keep up the good work, love the show
That Pedal Show Forgot to add that i kept mine floating, i haven’t tried this setup with a blocked trem lol. I didn’t think the springs would make such a profound difference as well, because i actually bought the springs for shits and giggles. All the best, and when it comes to snake oil, always buy the finest! Cheers
Acoustically I prefer the original for its fuller tone but plugged in the callaham wins - clarity is on another level, not that the original is muddy but there is a difference. Thanks for doing this, Mick!
You're right: A Callaham does make a bigger difference to a 70s CBS Strat. Changed a few of these and it improved the guitars a lot. The change to a Fender CS is very subtle on the other hand. Still love the virtual pop in arm.
Hey Mick, love the personal perspective on this. I think this is an important message to share around personal connection as a guide to tone, sound, and gear. From someone who has no emotional attachment to either bridge, I can say based on what my ears were telling me, the Callahan bridge sounded more open, better upper mid range as you explained, and this might sound weird, but more “stratty”. Not much difference unplugged, but it did seem to have more range then the Fender bridge. The clarity and upper mid push really came out during Lenny - sounded right out of SRV case. Had that classic thoatyness of the vintage strats he played. Thanks for this. These vids help me a ton when wondering if I should change my bridge and I trust your OCD during editing and trying to keep the sounds as authentic as possible. Very much appreciated.
Callaham all day. The regular fender bridge sounds muddy in comparison. The Callaham is giving a more balanced tone, where the fender seems like the high end is rolled off a bit and not as much mids. The fender sounds like what the Callaham would sound like with completely dead strings.
Sharing your experience on this journey is such a gift. I love it. I’ve done a lot of swapping pickups and other parts, but I’ve always sent it to a tech to do the work. It is helpful to see it done so methodically and to hear your thoughts on the process, which can sometimes feel like alchemy.
Yes those cast bridges aren't great.....i swapped out the bridge on an early silver series Japanese Squier Strat for a Wilkinson one with a steel block and it made a big difference to the sound...
I got 3 strats with callaham tremolo bridge sets and callaham blocks in 3 other strats. It definitely adds more bottom note separation and upper mids that really broadens tha sound of your guitar
I prefer the fender. Richer, darker, just more full bodied generally. I guess it depends what you are after but for me you've swapped a really powerful sound for something a bit weedy if you ask me.
Mick, on the comments about the psychological connection: I recently went from a (in my opinion) crappy Hagstrom Swede to a PRS Starla. You described it perfectly: I felt like the Hagstrom was a barrier getting in the way of my playing, and the Starla helps me get the sounds out that I want. Makes great sense; glad I'm not the only one :)
Interesting. It doesn't matter if the difference is subtle or pronounced, but better is better...and in the deep, dark recesses of your psyche that will always be the bottom line. If you think it's better, then it is.
How i set that bridge tension is not eyeballing the distance between the body and the bridge when making the big bend but rather pick the low E string and then do the big bend and that way if the bridge moves forward the low E will go flat. That way you have an idea how it actually effects the other strings when doing a double bend for example or playing over droning open strings and incorporating bends. I like the Callaham's chime better, it is suttle but it is there and if feels right than it's "happy happy days"
Am I the only one that really can’t wait to hear the Fender fat 60’s pickups in there? There aren’t any videos on TH-cam that provide an accurate depiction of how they sound.
Probably one of my favorite videos on TPS. I loved your thoughts at the end, explaining why it was worth it and conecting with the instrument.Thanks for that. In my headphones I'm sure I heard a clarity difference.
Interesting! Mick, I agree with your impression that the new bridge made a small change to the guitar's sound (though I think it's an improvement; almost "bigger" sounding in the way a 100w amp is bigger than a 35w amp). I found something similar when swapping the bridge on my Tele (from one boutique brand to another; needed because the brass barrels were starting to get a sitar effect after 12-14 years). What I find especially interesting is that I also swapped the neck on my Tele before changing bridges. MASSIVE change in tone!! The new neck did have bigger frets, and your regret episode makes me wonder how much of that was a factor. The new neck is near-perfect quarter sawn (and non-figured) where the old neck was flatsawn due to the flame maple. Dimensions were also different. The new neck made the guitar immediately louder, bolder, more note vibration in the neck/body, more of everything. Maybe a question for Johnny would be how much the guitar's tone is shaped by what's happening at the neck/headstock end of the strings, rather than at the body (assuming good wood, etc).
The tone difference will be so minimal its really a playability and tuning stability comparison that might make this mod worth it. A tone comparison is pure cork sniffery.
How many Strat bridges have you changed? I've replaced several. It CAN make an obvious change it tone. That said, I find that changing the block to make the most difference.
I love the wrap up. I’ve got various upgrades happening on many of my guitars trying to scratch that itch. Looking forward to getting the work done and getting back to playing more.
Fun times! Thanks for putting this together Mick. I would say (by just hearing it) that it was worth the effort to install the Callaham bridge. Cheers!
I share your love for Doyle, Mick. Love his new stuff and still wear out the Arc Angels album. Anyhow...I love your willingness to pursue upgrades that may not have a night and day effect on things, but address a psychological barrier. Pickups have been that for me, going from one great one to another great one, along the way probably not creating any difference anyone else could hear, but somehow it freed up something in my creative brain.
Sorry I’m late!
Really interesting. Sounds to me, the Callaham added more mids. Thickened it out a bit, dropped some highs the tiniest bit. At least through the mics etc.
I prefer Blue with the Callaham. Great vid!
Agreed, the Callaham bridge sounded really nice, to me it sounded like every string had much more definition even when all six were strummed
I'm just here to listen to Mick play really. That's all.
This was worth watching just for “fret flat forward,” plus much more, but thank you for that alliteration.
That smile on your face at the beginning of the A/B part of the video says it all man, cannot fake an honest reaction like that!
"Two bits of wood bolted together". Spoken like a true Stratman. They we're made for us commoners to not only play, but also repair.
Intonation....the bane of my existence.
Love how your first reference lick is “Lenny” - it gives you everything you need to know about whether that trem is in the ballpark or not!
Grab a beer,tinker with your guitar...one of life's little pleasures
Indeed! Guitars are, sadly, one of the few things a regular person even *can* tinker with these days. So much other stuff is just meant to be disposable: use it till it doesn't work right and just throw it in the landfill and buy another one. Or the other end of the spectrum, like your car, where you now need a whole garage and a lift and a special (very expensive) computer just to get a basic tune-up done...
Ahhh.. Yes.
@@dystopiagear6999 amen to that
Dystopia Gear so true.
yeah, glad all my five strat copies are set, just tried the EHX Silencer pedal, really good! Ive got another Noise Reductioner in my ZOOM G2, but this one in front of it and its dead quiet with vwry heavy leads, and still enough sustain...even found an old setting I like very much, and I also like the Silencer with some clean tone, colours the tone soo minimally!...Pedals are an inspiration to me...
I truly was not expecting to hear a difference, especially here on TH-cam, but I could. The Callaham had a noticeable chime to it. The Fender bridge sounded wonderful but the Callaham , wow. Fascinating demonstration. Thanks Mick.
Fascinating. I heard a real difference in what you described: lower mids on the original, upper mids on the new bridge.
the callaham definitely sounds better and smoother to my ears. maybe ill change my bridge someday.
lower mids on the original ??.....No !!
definitivly not .....
I love my main guitar (strat) more than I do most people, but I too am not as precious with it as you are, so I completely understand the way you treat Blue...
It was fun watching this even if I did not learn anything I did not already know, but that is not why I tune in any way... I just like spending my time with you guys!
Thank you for spending your time with me Mick, it is much appreciated.
Cheers from Croatia!
I also like having a little pot handy when i am working on guitars
Well played, sir.
Always!
Agreed, my brother of the leaf...
I'm a little green that you were able to remix that phrase so well.
🤘🍻❤️🍻🤘 😎
Good job. I like the practical way you go about the repair. There is no reason to handle a Strat like a baby. It’s a working tool.
I'm at about Lenny on my first watch. So far, it mirrors my own findings when I put a callaham on my strat. In short, it pushed it toward a Tele. Gave a faster and sharper attack, and a rise in the frequency of it's most forward voice. Dynamically, it made it better at louder and rock-leaning, but worse at delicate and notey-chordy lower gain stuff. So, in the end, it made it less what I wanted from a strat, so it came back off. I still have it. If I want to make a rock strat I'll use it. But, for me, I reach for a strat when I want touchy feely and massive Dynamic range. Cheers! Thanks for this!
I just did an autumnal truss rod tweak yesterday and it made a world of difference. I felt like some sort of genius.
Fret, Flat, Forward. The mnemonic was worth the whole video for me. I always had a hard time remembering which way the bridge goes and had to go to the book. Not anymore, thanks!
Hooray! I hoped there would be one.
@@ThatPedalShow Me too. Muchas gratias!
I was always taught sharp = short. So if the fretted note is sharp then the string is too short so the saddle goes back.
Mick.
Mick, please. Stop mentioning how people will complain in the comments. We all know that. They know they. They don't need to be the focus. Your credibility is valid.
None of this will stop me enjoying your work. Thanks for all of it.
The main reason to get an upgraded strat bridge is for better trem action.. you nailed it. Took forever into this video to get to it but I’m glad your brought it up.
Look at someone like Bill Frisell. MONSTER player. Also a monster tinkerer. He’s Frankenstein’d a bunch of guitars in the same pursuit. Overall the conclusion is the same: how does the neck feel? How does the guitar sound? And it’s usually worth pursuing the tone.
Great series 👍
Hi Mick, great episode!
Soldering tips from someone working in mass produced electronics:
When soldering a heat sink move the iron around the pad. In your case the claw is your heatsink (large body of metal or heat conductive material) just move it in circles where you'd like the wire soldered.
For soldering iron tip preservation, clean the tip BEFORE use and put extra solder on the tip AFTER use.
Ah thank you!
I'm very far from being an expert either, but I think you're right that action would come before intonation, because when you raise or lower the strings, you (respectively) increase or decrease the tension and pitch. This occurred to me recently when I upped the string gauge on my Les Paul, and then raised the strings a bit, and the intonation had changed.
Slightly brighter in the upper mids as everyone has noted. Then again that Two Rock makes any strat sound like heaven. Mick, I adore that blue strat and your humble and no nonsense approach to your gear. Loving this blue strat vlog.
Doyle Bramhall is keeping me company tonight along with Catherine....(insert momentary pause to make us think “shit! Is he really there!?!?). Well played Mick...well played. 🤣
I too have gone the route of the Callaham on my #1 Strat. I was very pleased with the craftsmanship and tonal improvements
The last 5 minutes of that vlog should be required viewing for every guitarist on the ‘tone quest’ that we are all on!!
I think, to often, we get so bogged down in the ‘cork sniffery’ of buying gear and forget what is important. Playing, communicating, being inspired or just practicing.
Great vlog Mick!!
When Mick used the back of the body as a cutting board for the ground ("earth") wire, my heart sank. XD
Okay, that "Fret Flat Forward" tip is the best thing i've ever heard... Whenever i'm adjusting intonation i have to google it, thanks Mick!
The Callaham bridge was brighter, but in a nice way to my ear. It was clearer and seemed to have a slight bit more presence. Driven they both sounded great. Good sounding axe and it has a great tone either way...I think the Callaham was a clear winner for band situations as your are gonna have your zone nailed...
@22:16 unbelievable what Mick shells out when he is happy and 'in the moment'. Stellar licks!
Mick, I find your attitude towards the delicacies of the guitar maintenance refreshing ie in terms of should have a neck rest/ protection under the body for when turning the guitar etc but not being overly bothered about it and correctly stating that’s it’s just 2 bits of wood bolted together. I find It particularly refreshing as I’m a PRS owner and a member of several PRS groups where the level of presciousness (if that’s a word) over the guitars is laughable at times!
Hahaha!!! We'll, I definitely take more care with my set neck guitars. But Fenders are largely indestructible with this kind of thing. :0)
‘Do it properly’
’but it’s the way I like
’yeah but I can’t play your guitars’
‘yeah but I can’t play your 9s that feel like they’re touching the frets’
‘But that’s the way they’re supposed to be set up’
‘...’
I like the Callaham. Louder, bigger, Clearer sound with just a touch more string separation and definition.
With regards to using something to cushion the guitar, my boss at the first guitar shop I worked at used old sweatshirts to cushion guitars he was repairing and boxers to polish them. Worked a charm!
To my ear, there is a clear difference, especially unplugged.
The new bridge sounded more chimey and resonant, and less "old" - which is probably all down to that lower-mids muddiness you talk about. Whether the sound is "better" for That Pedal Shed is debatable, but as you always say - it can sound perfect on its own and then be lost when the rest of the band kicks in. Sounds like the Callahan has the clarity and presence you need to cut through and be heard.
Loving the journey, and can't wait to hear what those custom pickups sound like!
PS Don't forget to upgrade that ground wire...
This video will be of great value for my install. The original bridge/saddle on my 74 strat have "string-worn" grooves which is the main reason I'm considering this Callaham. It already has a Warmoth compound radius neck with jumbo stainless frets, locking tuners and an Everything Axe loaded pickguard with Seymour Duncan pickups. I've had the old bridge pretty locked down ( no wang bar use) but am looking forward to a bit of tremolo bar use with the new bridge.
On hearing Mick talk about his 'heart breaking' over removing the new strings from his Strat I have the following piece of advice for anyone who owns a Strat and a guitar loaded with a Floyd Rose (as long as it doesn't feature a reverse headstock). Rather than cutting the strings off the Strat simply pull back out through the bridge. Then put them on the Floyd guitar with the ball end at the headstock and cut them to the appropriate length to lock them at the bridge. "But", I hear you say, "what if my strings have lost their brightness! Why would I want to put old strings on my Floyd?" Good question. In answer, and this is based purely on my own experience (although others have told me similar things), new strings on a Floyd loaded guitar tend to sound a bit twangy and are prone to tuning instability. You want that twangy sound on a Strat but not on a Floyd in my opinion. So save a bit of money, help the environment, and recycle your old strings if you can. 👌👍
Kevin Betts Bah. Humbug. Recycle my poo. It’s very high in Nitrogen.
@@BeefNEggs057 Bear with me while I compost I suitable response. 😁
Here's even better advice. Use pin locking tuners. Easy to remove, do what you need to do and reinstall. I never have to waste good strings.
Hey Mick. Playing for 15 yrs now 27 yrs old. You remind me of my own musical taste and playing style. For what it’s worth listening on TH-cam I just wanted to point out how wonderful your unplugged sound is. Good guitar players sound great sans electricity. No parlor trick effects or gain. Honestly I hold you in such higher esteem as a player just after hearing the playing in the video. Already thought you and Dan are pretty proper guitar players. Seen almost every video now. Cheers
I thought there was a very noticeable difference. The new bridge had more clarity and bite; on the audio anyway . Amazing that it can make such a difference.
I’m with you Mick, it’s not so much about how much better this sounds than that, it’s more about keeping the relationship alive between yourself and the music you want to make. You have to be inspired to play, and sometimes that inspiration comes from a bridge, a nut, or a new guitar. Anyways, cool vlog!
I love going down the rabbit hole and trying new gear, but I’m also aware that spending the same money on an hour skype lesson with Joey Landreth would do more for my playing and tone than replacing any component of my guitars. Fun experiment though.
Nothing beats turning your own strat into a relic yourself.
But putting metal bits and dropping tools on the a naked guitar body is making me wince.
Ron Thorn Fender Custom Shop masterbuilder suggests this sequence to not go mad going round in a circle.
T.R.A.I.N
Tune
Rod, truss adjustment
Action
Intonation
Noodle (strum, solo, play it and check that everything’s to your satisfaction)
The Callaham definitely has a more hi-fi sound across the board. The whole guitar seemed much more “clear” - even unplugged.
I know you guys don’t want to be a “gear demo” channel, but you teach so much by the quality of info you put out.. it really is a culture shift from the days of gear forums. We all genuinely trust your opinion.. because.. you put forth the effort to put out quality demos.. keep up the good work. This is legacy building stuff.. not just TH-cam videos
Callaham sounds more defined with extended frequency response - higher fidelity, in general.
As i'm watching this at work I'm reminded of how much I love messing around with guitars and drinking beer.
I replaced the stock bridge on my 80s Japanese Strat with a Callaham almost three years ago--with trepidation, not knowing if it would be worth the expense. Definite improvement in mids, but also more resonant. The overtones ring out more. This can be heard on your demo as well. It's as much about feel though as it is about tonal qualities in my opinion. I've had a sonic research strobe tuner (the one that Dan likes on the TPS pedal board) for several years and it will give you spot on intonation if that's what you are looking for. Great Vlog, thanks for sharing your journey!!
I found the same difference with my 62 RI. But using the Callaham stuff on my late 80's to early 90's strats made light years of difference.
Here's a soldering tip, as you anticipated. When soldering to a smooth metal surface, such as the back of the trem claw you were connecting the ground wire to, it's a great idea to rough up the surface with sandpaper or a file. This rougher surface is easier for the solder to adhere to, and won't ball up into those shiny little beads that get stuck in your guitar. I do this all the time when wiring pots to ground, as it makes it so much easier for the solder to spread out evenly.
Whatever makes you happy! What makes me happy is that you let me tag along on your journey. Cheers!
I've got the same guitar, 2008 model, and my new callaham is not as heavy as stock fender (not a huge difference). Which was welcome to me..the slightly different weight in my two strats starts to hurt after about 2 hours of playing. I was definitely questioning if it made a difference in tone as well. Oh well, I did change to their Vintage screw spacing/ but narrow string spacing specs (V/N). The very small change in spacing from E to E has helped me more than anything else I've changed.
beardogyup Ive got a mim body and a vintage spec pat pend trem spare. i wanna swap them. did you dowl the holes and drill vintage spec holes. Then did you change the nut cheers
@@bonkerstv4575 Ahh okay. So my avri 62' has the vintage screw spacing. That's why this vintage/narrow (V/N) callaham was perfect for me. It was exactly what I was looking for. I was so used to the string spacing on my MIM 60's classic series (52mm) So it was basically plug and play. I thought I might have to do some things as you're saying, but callaham came to the rescue. No nut change yet! Inwas rather confused on which spacing came with which models for strats, callaham definitely sorted things out for me!
@@bonkerstv4575 good luck with your mods though! Forgot to say...no, didn't change the nut. Everything else is stock so far.
Hey Mick, Marco here…..great VLOG!!! Really like you taking us on your journey and thought process, can very much relate to the things you are saying and am pretty sure that Blue will evolve into the magical vintage vibe status...especially if you consider that quite a lot of legendary stratocasters actually are parts-casters where neck, bodies and pickups have been swopped to achieve what you have just very nicely described. Am really looking forward to part III!!!
I for one love that you understand your instrument is in fact "two bits of wood bolted together."
Leo Fender tried pretty hard to engineer something that would not be too precious.
I’m going through the same journey right now having had my 1960 original stolen after 27 years together. I got my hands on a very good MIM and gradually bringing it up to Super Strat level.
OMG. Words cannot express the emotion of that. Argh. Heartbreaking. Good luck with the new one - the only way is forwards!
You should always put some solder on your iron and then wipe it of on that (moistened) sponge, before you use it. That way it will conduct the heat way better. Ask Dan. :)
tinning is winning
Great tip in the 6 trem screws Mick. It sorted my tuning problem on my Strat.
I swear from the instagram teaser,
I hear the callaham is a bit brighter for the first comparison.
I guess the most obvious improvement would be the feel
Erjim Delos Reyes hey I agree. I did this to the Strat I bought in 08. It was not very different in sound with the Callaham but it really feels more quality in your hands, and then it felt a bit better when playing it, and there were less little creaks or mechanical sounds when using it. But it was not a drastic improvement. But I was happy to do it for those reasons. I just kept the old parts in case. It is the feel though you’re right.
Thought that was a haiku at first
Internet consensus seems to be that Callahan bridge and saddles do tend to brighten things up.
Cool video. I put the Callaham bridge on my Classic 60’s Strat ages ago. It made a huge difference! My Strat has a magnesium block though. I immediately noticed more resonance and sustain with a more focused and present upper midrange. I’ve never looked back. Top quality build.
One more scratch! You have to try a set of Zexcoil pickups!
Fantastic work... it’s all worth it! Have had a Callaham Bridge on my solid rosewood Strat for 5 months and its been as solid as a rock.
I think the Callahan Bridge sounded better. Maybe it was a bit brighter but I thought it sounded more 'harmonic' - the notes seemed to ring more harmoniously. Whether that was because of the mid scoop and these not clashing, I don't know.
I think you ought to have tested to see how the sustain has changed too...
Marginal differences can make a lot of difference to the player and do enough of them, they all add up too. Its like finding that 'special' Les Paul by trying lots in a shop where some people will not hear any difference (or very marginal that makes no difference to them) between them all whilst another will hear a lot of difference and be able to categorise them from best to worse...
TPS makes some of the only vlogs I'll ever watch. Good video as always
Mick, you have given me the confidence to fix the intonation on my strat. It's one of those things I've avoided out of fear of making my guitar play worse and I never seem to get around to taking it to a tech. I will update you on how it goes. Keep up the great work.
It's been six months, how did it go?
You're not going to ruin your guitar by adjusting the saddles. Go for it, just take your time and make small adjustments at a time. :) Same goes for string height/action etc. Unless the whole thing is completely out of whack or you're having more involved work done, there's really not much reason to pay someone *just* to intonate it and set the action.
Fantastic video Mick, thank you For showing that the “fender “ Strat is still a great
You would be able to use 5 springs if you used the “Raw Vintage” spring set. They are slightly lower tension and made a difference for me. I chose them with my Callahan setup. On your guitar the Callahan seems to allow the fundamental of the note to ring louder. Sounds great!
I always say that everything make you feel the guitar more a part of your playing and music is real. If using a penny or a credit card as a pick or even some wood or simply a pair of shoes make you play more present and connected is real!
Hi Mick. If you don't want your duncans I will buy them from you
Man, you need an, "A/B" song. One song to test them all. Pedals, mics, bridges, strings, Dan replacements. That has helped me learn the voices of my mics
Like I said on Instagram for whatever reason after the Callaham Bridge, the guitar has more precieved higher mid range cutting frequencies. Maybe it's the action adjustment or newer strings Idk but it sounds more musical to my ears.
Probably just the new strings, lol
What do you mean by "more musical"? 🤔
@@gearoftones8585 harmonically rich. Fundamental note fequencies are most present as well.
@@sumyupee 🤣🤣🤣
@GEAR of TONES not sure why that's so funny to you. When the range and resonance in which the fundamental frequencies are clearly distinct and dynamic and the harmonic resonances fill out the spectrum is what most people tend to associate with something "musical". This is in contrast to a sound that has less harmonically sympathetic resonance, and more none-musical artifact frequencies are present. Take a snare sound for example, a snare that isn't tuned well or set up well will have more random sounds and less harmonic musical intervals present. Where a snare that sings and sounds sweeter will be harmonically sympathetic with itself and the head, body and actual snare will ideally all be combining to create a more musical sound. Idk I feel like if you don't get what I'm saying then that's fine, we all have different ways of thinking and listening to music. And non musical transients definitely have their place in the character of the sound.
If I may, I would like to share a few tips with you if you don’t already know them.
First, string height and neck relief is ALWAYS done before intonation as they greatly effect string length.
Second, your bolt-on neck heel may not be sitting flush against the back of the neck pocket, particularly if you have done any trussrod adjustments (where the adjustment screw is in the neck heel) requiring the loosening of the neck to get at the adjustment screw ( a really terrible design if I may say so). When the strings are in tune, very slightly loosen the neck screws, no more than ¼ turn should do. You may hear the wood groan a bit. This is good. It means that the strings have pulled the neck heel up against the back of the neck pocket where it belongs. If it was already there, then no harm. However, getting the neck to sit properly in the pocket will greatly enhance tone, sustain, overall feel and response. Of course, then tighten down the neck screws as much as you can without stripping the screw heads.
Third, you’ve probably heard this but I have found that using the 12th fret harmonic to intonate the guitar is not as good a method as actually noting at the 12th fret as well as at the fifth and whatever other frets you wish. You may find that when the intonation is perfect at the 12th fret, it is not so at other frets. This is not at all unusual. In such instance you will want to make compromises so that the guitar is in its best overall intonation. I agree that overly obsessing with intonation is not practical; however, starting off with a good base-line intonation makes later regular tuning and playing a bit better-sounding, I think.
Fourth, a bit of good lube and/or #2 pencil lead in the nut slots and under the string trees makes all go much smoother when bending strings and using the vibrato arm.
I recently installed a Callahan trem block in my ’62 Strat. Heresy, you say? Well, maybe not since the block that was in it was not original to the guitar anyway but was from a ’64 Strat and was installed many years ago when the vibrato arm broke off in the original block (which I now use as a paperweight). The top of the Callahan block is very smooth, almost mirror-finished and makes excellent contact with the bridge plate. This installation made a big difference in an already legendary-sounding guitar. I found the upper mids were greatly enhanced as well as a slight increase in volume. Also the Callahan vibrato arm is sooo much better with no slack at all. A good bit of rabbit-holing, for sure.
I know that you are trying to make “Blue” as good as it can be and I agree that you should. However, notwithstanding the great expense of it, I think that what you really require is a good pre-CBS Strat. I know that you know how magical they are and also that they’re not all equal. The good (best) ones are hard to find as players don’t usually part with them. Still…
Thanks Glick.
Me pleasure, mate.
Yup - I'll postpone working on one of my guitars until I deem the strings are "old enough" - whatever that means.
Enjoy the bridge. Callahams makes my favorite bridge/tremolo by far. So exacting.
Callanhan stuff is awesome all my guitars get their hardware within a week of buy a new axe build quality quality is high engineering grade not pressed steel more of a hand made feel.
Try a 'Wudtone' bridge it's hard to find better for a Strat in my opinion.
Hey mick if you see this, FWIW, i largely had a similar experience - the higher frequencies tend to be tighter and generally the sound is a little more ‘clean’. Mine’s a 56CS ash, and i put in a callaham block but kept the fender plate. It tightened the sound considerably and i put raw vintage saddles which softened the attack just a tad. But the most significant change happened when i installed the raw vintage springs, which added a little ‘reverb-like’ quality to the sound. I like the tension on the bridge as well. This is a topic that struck a chord with me and just wanted to reach out and add to your library of anecdotes; hope it will be of some use in some way, some day. Keep up the good work, love the show
Thank you kindly. I'm intrigued by how many people say those springs make such a difference. Needless to say I'll be getting some to try. Hahaha!
That Pedal Show Forgot to add that i kept mine floating, i haven’t tried this setup with a blocked trem lol. I didn’t think the springs would make such a profound difference as well, because i actually bought the springs for shits and giggles. All the best, and when it comes to snake oil, always buy the finest! Cheers
Hi Mick, you really need to do the intonation last, as any other changes you make could throw off the intonation slightly.
Acoustically I prefer the original for its fuller tone but plugged in the callaham wins - clarity is on another level, not that the original is muddy but there is a difference. Thanks for doing this, Mick!
You're right: A Callaham does make a bigger difference to a 70s CBS Strat. Changed a few of these and it improved the guitars a lot.
The change to a Fender CS is very subtle on the other hand. Still love the virtual pop in arm.
Hey Mick, love the personal perspective on this. I think this is an important message to share around personal connection as a guide to tone, sound, and gear. From someone who has no emotional attachment to either bridge, I can say based on what my ears were telling me, the Callahan bridge sounded more open, better upper mid range as you explained, and this might sound weird, but more “stratty”. Not much difference unplugged, but it did seem to have more range then the Fender bridge. The clarity and upper mid push really came out during Lenny - sounded right out of SRV case. Had that classic thoatyness of the vintage strats he played. Thanks for this. These vids help me a ton when wondering if I should change my bridge and I trust your OCD during editing and trying to keep the sounds as authentic as possible. Very much appreciated.
Callaham all day. The regular fender bridge sounds muddy in comparison. The Callaham is giving a more balanced tone, where the fender seems like the high end is rolled off a bit and not as much mids. The fender sounds like what the Callaham would sound like with completely dead strings.
Sharing your experience on this journey is such a gift. I love it. I’ve done a lot of swapping pickups and other parts, but I’ve always sent it to a tech to do the work. It is helpful to see it done so methodically and to hear your thoughts on the process, which can sometimes feel like alchemy.
There would me a much more noticeable difference if you were replacing a cast bridge and the small trem block. That Fender came with quite good stuff.
Yes those cast bridges aren't great.....i swapped out the bridge on an early silver series Japanese Squier Strat for a Wilkinson one with a steel block and it made a big difference to the sound...
I got 3 strats with callaham tremolo bridge sets and callaham blocks in 3 other strats. It definitely adds more bottom note separation and upper mids that really broadens tha sound of your guitar
I prefer the fender. Richer, darker, just more full bodied generally. I guess it depends what you are after but for me you've swapped a really powerful sound for something a bit weedy if you ask me.
Mick, on the comments about the psychological connection: I recently went from a (in my opinion) crappy Hagstrom Swede to a PRS Starla. You described it perfectly: I felt like the Hagstrom was a barrier getting in the way of my playing, and the Starla helps me get the sounds out that I want. Makes great sense; glad I'm not the only one :)
I heard little more presence or bite out of the Callahan bridge
I think that's what I hear too.
Lenny! WHAT A TUNE!!!
Interesting. It doesn't matter if the difference is subtle or pronounced, but better is better...and in the deep, dark recesses of your psyche that will always be the bottom line. If you think it's better, then it is.
There you go. Totally agree.
How i set that bridge tension is not eyeballing the distance between the body and the bridge when making the big bend but rather pick the low E string and then do the big bend and that way if the bridge moves forward the low E will go flat. That way you have an idea how it actually effects the other strings when doing a double bend for example or playing over droning open strings and incorporating bends.
I like the Callaham's chime better, it is suttle but it is there and if feels right than it's "happy happy days"
I'm a simple man. I see Blue, I click
Ron Ellis Pickups are the holy grail.. Happy for ya!
Am I the only one that really can’t wait to hear the Fender fat 60’s pickups in there?
There aren’t any videos on TH-cam that provide an accurate depiction of how they sound.
Probably one of my favorite videos on TPS. I loved your thoughts at the end, explaining why it was worth it and conecting with the instrument.Thanks for that. In my headphones I'm sure I heard a clarity difference.
I'm a good citizen and I pay my TV License. Can i remove Coronation Street and swop it for your channel. Great entetaining stuff. Cheers
Crazy ol’ grandpa Mick tinkering away. Love it!
Last night I dreamed I was invited to TPS. That would be so cool... :p
Interesting! Mick, I agree with your impression that the new bridge made a small change to the guitar's sound (though I think it's an improvement; almost "bigger" sounding in the way a 100w amp is bigger than a 35w amp). I found something similar when swapping the bridge on my Tele (from one boutique brand to another; needed because the brass barrels were starting to get a sitar effect after 12-14 years).
What I find especially interesting is that I also swapped the neck on my Tele before changing bridges. MASSIVE change in tone!! The new neck did have bigger frets, and your regret episode makes me wonder how much of that was a factor. The new neck is near-perfect quarter sawn (and non-figured) where the old neck was flatsawn due to the flame maple. Dimensions were also different. The new neck made the guitar immediately louder, bolder, more note vibration in the neck/body, more of everything.
Maybe a question for Johnny would be how much the guitar's tone is shaped by what's happening at the neck/headstock end of the strings, rather than at the body (assuming good wood, etc).
The tone difference will be so minimal its really a playability and tuning stability comparison that might make this mod worth it. A tone comparison is pure cork sniffery.
Exactly, rolling your tone knob 1/16th of a revolution will make wayyy more of a difference then changing all of these parts.
How many Strat bridges have you changed? I've replaced several. It CAN make an obvious change it tone. That said, I find that changing the block to make the most difference.
I love the wrap up. I’ve got various upgrades happening on many of my guitars trying to scratch that itch. Looking forward to getting the work done and getting back to playing more.
FFS Mick, I'm supposed to be making a demo, not watching this video...! ;)
Ah sorry geez!
Fun times! Thanks for putting this together Mick. I would say (by just hearing it) that it was worth the effort to install the Callaham bridge. Cheers!
A bit more "zing" with the new bridge, I would say...
Hey Hey! Finally! I love this! Now waiting for part 3
Thanks Mick, by the way what tuning app is that on your phone?
its the peterson strobe tuner app.
I share your love for Doyle, Mick. Love his new stuff and still wear out the Arc Angels album. Anyhow...I love your willingness to pursue upgrades that may not have a night and day effect on things, but address a psychological barrier. Pickups have been that for me, going from one great one to another great one, along the way probably not creating any difference anyone else could hear, but somehow it freed up something in my creative brain.
"I need to keep looking at the monitor to make sure my heads in"- Micks porn star problems!! 😁