Outstanding review. First one I've come across where the reviewer has actually done some turning. I'm impressed you saw through the faults and still appreciate it is a good machine.
Hi Franco. Try running the lathe without the chuck and backplate (spindle only) to see if it still vibrates. If it does not vibrate, run the lathe with the backplate only (no chuck). If the backplate is the cause of the vibration and it has extra holes for mounting different chucks, try filling the unused holes with steel plugs to see if that helps.
well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I've been looking at this size of lathe for a while. As far as I can tell, there are a couple different versions of the so-called 8" Chinese lathe, made by at least 2 companies; the Sieg C4 and "Weiss" (not exactly sure if that's the factory name) *-210V (or variant). The one shown in the video is the latter. They have different spindle bores running from 20mm to 38mm and different center to center lengths; the smaller C-C lengths seem to have the smaller spindle bores or it's based on the motor size, perhaps. The swing over bed diameters are either around 8.2" or 8.7" (Little Machine Shop calls them '8.5"'). From the latest results for 8" x 16" lathes on Ebay, Aliexpress and elsewhere, most I've seen are the 38mm bore *-210V variants. It's a headache figuring out the different configs. As for the gear train, the steel change (spur) gears are metric Module 1 (M1), 20 degree pressure angle (industry default), with bore sizes are either 12mm or 16mm. One can find 12mm diameter sets on Amazon or Ebay. Little Machine Shop sells a large set 16mm bore size (with 4mm keyway) change gears (up to 127T). littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4583&category=1963256896 Alternatively, one could go to Stock Drive Products (www.sdp-si.com) and look under metric M1 hubless spur gears (20 degree P/A is your only choice) in your choice of material based on tooth count. The bore sizes only go up to 10mm for hubless gears, so you'd have to open up the bore and cut a keyway. shop.sdp-si.com/catalog/?cid=p591&filter=&sort=undefined&view=table The powerfeed feed rate in X is determined by all the spur gears, including the drive gear on the spindle shaft, and the spindle speed (no kidding...). The 20mm spindle bore versions either have a .0025" (not too bad) or a .0037" slow feed (I've seen both) and the 38mm bore size versions (I've seen) have a feed rate of .0038" (feed/threading panel). So to get a slower feed rate, one has to come up with a "better" combination of the spur gears. There are online calculators that can be used to determine thread pitch cutting sizes based on the lead screw pitch and listing all the spur gears you have (and the drive gear) by the number of teeth. Using the calculator and the combined set of change gears that come standard, and any others that one can get, I found that I could think up "imaginary" (very small--150 TPI or .05mm pitch) thread pitches by "gaming" out the different all the combinations of the gears available. Since the thread pitch is the cutting distance in X, choose TPI or metric pitch. Here is one calculator I like: kachurovskiy.com/gears/ Hope this helps.
Dear sir, i also have this type of mini lathe in my home, the problem is, i would love to make a custom thread dial indicator for this machine but i don't know how to do the math to choose a perfect gear combination to match the lead screw of this machine. Would you share if you know how to calculate the thread pitch of the lead screw to match the thread dial indicator gear? Sorry for my english.
Thanks for the video, gave me confidence to pull the trigger. Just ordered one to Florida for $815 shipped. I'm in Alabama but close to border so it was worth the savings in tax, only thing I miss about Florida is no online sales tax.
One thing I've found out about this lathe since I've owned mine for little over 6 months. The headstock bearings are tapered on the chuck side and standard ball bearing on the belt side. After a misshap with my auto feed I developed a bit of chatter in my cuts and determined that the headstock had about 2-3 thou of play. Also my lathes combo feed is hollow aluminum and the gib is a bit smaller than I would like. Lastly I mounted a 6" independent 4-jaw chuck and needed to get an adaptor back plate but couldn't find one quickly so I tried to make one but it's not 100% to my liking.
For those of you looking at this lathe on eBay there’s one problem you need to be aware of on the tail stock. Underneath the tail stock there’s a bolt that’s over length that you’re gonna have to cut off in order to be able to slide it because if you don’t cut it down it’s going to hit on these little spots on the bed that are spaced a few inches apart. Next thing you need to know is no matter how you adjust the tail stock to tighten it down it’s not gonna drill a hole bigger than a 5/16 before it starts sliding itself back. One fix I came up with when trying to drill a 1 inch hole was take you a piece of 3/8 flat bar just big enough to sit on the end of the bed and drill and tap it to attach there. And you wanna drill a hole in that plate I was just talking about lining it up with the back of the tail stock and tap it for whatever size threaded rod you wanna use to screw against the tail stock to prevent it from sliding back when you’re drilling hole.
Oh and by the way , a lot of these Chinese lathes come with a twist in the bed that nothing can be done about. You can bolt them down to a bench all you want to attempt to take some of the twist out of the bed but good luck with that
Sorry if this has been covered, or if I misunderstood your description of the chuck mount fitment issue. It is normal for the backplate to require a little more turning to true it up on your exact lathe as any two lathes of the same specification from the same manufacturer in the same batch will have small deviations. In order to get the chuck to run as true as possible the backplate is finished on the lathe on which it is to be used. I think that's the issue you had, though it would surprise me if that was the case and it wasn't mentioned in the documentation.
A lot of the vibrations on mine were eliminated by changing the screw in the motor pulley to a grub screw instead of a long M6 cap head bolt! Another issue which i considered massive was the chuck not having a back plate in it. It would appear the chuck started life with a smaller through capacity and has been machined out to 38mm which broke into the screw holes securing the back plate, so they left it off! There is room to drill and tap new holes so i made a new plate. Without this plate the gears and worm in the chuck would get filled with swarf. This is my 3rd china lathe and is a bit short on features but i wanted that 38mm! There is no reverse for the lead screw direction, no dial indicator for saddle travel engagement, both of which my 7x14 has. Both easily sorted with a bit of engineering though.
@@rksg2003 I got the mx400 but had to do a lot of work to make it how i wanted it. Lead screw reverse, toothed belt drive, thrust bearing on all the lead screws and a Pratt burnerd Chuck. It's done a lot of work now and works great!
If you replace the spindle, ball, bearings with annular roller bearings and set the spindle side play a lot of the vibration will disappear and your machined surface will also improve. Ball bearings have no provision for side play adjustment so your spindle will dance back and forth as it spins causing crappy surface finish.
I almost bought that lathe, but went with a PM-1228 instead. A 1.5” bore was important to me too. You can put some igaging DROs on there to get around the metric dials and add some additional precision for about $150.
I just ordered a WM210V yesterday, looks like exactly the same model as this one. Very glad to see it's not a bad machine at all. The 38mm spindle bore was what sold me on it also :D I can fit 2020 extrusion through that, which is awesome. Also ordered it with a 4-jaw chuck... not sure if it's independent or scrolling, but I guess I'll find out when it arrives. Really looking forward to it, I've wanted a lathe for years now.
May want to put a variable speed motor or stepper connected to the leadscrew (tail end) to control feed rates - much easier than printing and changing gears. I did this on mine cuz I didn't like the gear noise (SouthBend 9A) and it works great! This will also allow you to auto feed either direction.
Funny you should say that, I have an old 1930 Colchester Bantam and it only has a leadscrew drive which I don't use for feed purpose due to having to move the change wheels around.....so I toyed with the idea of fitting a small 3 phase motor to drive the saddle with a VFD.....seems like it is a good idea after all.
@@gangleweed I used a 90VDC treadmill motor and a 10kw SCR controller with a rectifier to control the speed. VFD will work but may not provide sufficient torque at low RPM.
@@martik778 Yes, that will work for driving the leadscrew and saddle like any other motor you can control or a stepper motor and pulse generator etc......torque is not a big issue for feed drive but for a headstock drive the problem of torque is fixed with a bigger motor.
I had the thought it might be possible to do that. With an encoder or something to measure the position of the spindle, an arduino might be able to give you infinitely variable feed rates by 'software'
The mini lathes always look so fun and every time I watch your videos I either wanna by a mill or a lathe. But I feel like i really should just wait a little longer and save my money to get either a TL-1 Haas lathe or TM-1 Haas mill. You can find these sometimes used for a decent price. Best thing about Haas is you can program parts just handwriting G and M code. I could literally write a drill, turn, and bore program within 5 min. And with it being a Haas it has the rigidity to take bigger cuts and actually feed hard enough to break a chip.
I know I'm very late here bht one complaint i see often with this brand is the speed controller only has low to high but not off. I also dont like the idea of having to engage the drive of the lathe to turb it on. You could possibly remove the potentiometer and check its resistance values. Then find a replacement with the same values but has a disengage when turned fully counter clockwise. For me though I'd rather be able to set the speed and then give power to the spindle.
Like the 3D gear idea. If you ever need to upgrade you can order a PM1236 in a custom length of 24" or 16". Needs to be ordered from Taiwan so there is a wait. I have a 24" version. I'm pretty sure you can do same with 13" swing machine.
I really enjoyed watching your video. I especially liked the comments section. I was pondering on rather buying this one or the grizzly G0768. Which is almost twice the price. I had a HF mini mill 7x10 loved it but heck so much work just too get it right and then up and quit on me. 4x But HF was excellent they swapped it out all 3x with no hassle on the 4th I just asked for my money back and they refunded me with no problem. Anyway I think I will spend the extra money and hopefully get a better machine. Thanks. 🤪🤪🤪
@Chad, did you pull the trigger on this machine? If so does the chuck also have a 1.5" spindle bore and have you found a four jaw chuck with the same? Thanks
Yeah. It was literally mothballs lol It's oiled with a solution that has camphor in it because it sublimes and gets everywhere. You cannot get rid of it mechanically on small areas because it will sublime from somewhere else and precipitate there. It's like a fogging on cold object in a misty room. But that's the point, it closes off oxygen. As for the dirt, it's probably from shipping. Oils LOVE dust.
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 Yeah, Old timers (Machinists) use to keep a block of Camphor in some of their tool drawers to keep their tools like v-blocks and other set up blocks from rusting. I don't think I could stand the smell. Today it is easier to use something like Boeshield or LPS or line them with VCI paper.
sounds like the plastic gears have another benefit in being quieter think i would prefer nylon gears and keep the steel ones when doing screw cutting .
Awesome video, stilll wondering where you were able to pick this up so cheap. All of them seem to be around 1100 no tax included, also do you have a post where others can download the gears? Thanks!
I would love to know if you're still happy with this lathe - in Canada it seems to be the only lathe less than $3000 with more capacity than a $1300 7x12 (it retails for around $1550). I'll be doing mostly plastics with some brass/aluminum/nickel silver, and would love to get a DRO onto it!
Well, to be honest with you, I would not buy this lathe again. I would buy something more expensive from Precision Matthews. But, if you are on a budget, then this is a good option.
@@FrancoCNC what are you least happy with? since I don't do metals as a machnist, and i'm mostly worried about getting plastics to certain dimensions, feed rates/threading aren't as big of a deal for me. i may consider putting an ELS on it for the threading that I do, as I couldn't be bothered with changing the gears that often! :)
@@guitarchitectural I just had a HayWHNKN 8 x31 (WM-210) dropped off through Amazon last week. Free delivery and It arrived in near perfect condition. The run out out of the box on the three jaw chuck is within .001". I bought it with zero tooling because I'm a bit picky with that respect. It's not a bad manual lathe for a beginner. Also I was able to pick the thing up off the crate and put it on my workbench. There is only one gear that is not aligned well, but that is easily fixed with a shorter spacer. I disassembled it thoroughly to make sure that there was no leftover machining bits left anywhere, but it was pretty good. I must have got a good one. Time will tell. Cheers!
Did you ever happen to test the motor specs? This model seems to sell in two versions 750w and 1000w. It would be nice to know if those values are correct or inflated when comparing to grizzly, pm, little machine shop etc. Thanks
excellent. looks like drive gears are powered by belt, looks like the belt could be repositioned, would repositioning the belt slow down the feed rate?
nope, belt goes from motor to spindle.. leadscrew is driven by gear on spindle via the geartrain he was modding by using printed high ratio gear combinations
I have just received mine, which looks identical, but it has 800mm distance between the centers. the machine was well setup, tail stock was perfectly aligned too. the overall quality was very very good towards my surprise. I bought AXA 100 series QTCP, and it doesn't fit, also looks a little oversized. I also bought OXA 000 series QTCP, and it seems a little too small? also I have to deal with that 10 mm high 17.7 mm diameter stud sticking out of the compound, which fits into the original tool post, but doesn't allow me to simply put the AXA or OXA. how did you modify the plate? simply by boring the 17.7 mm hole to accommodate the compound stud? did you film the QTCP modifications process? I haven't tried my lathe yet, but from the quick inspection, there is no parts slack, everything is nicely tight and feels rigid out of the box. It came with the 4 jaws chuck (my choice), but it only has 2 key holes, so I guess it tightens the jaws symmetrically in pairs. not sure how to mount the rectangular object off center, maybe I need to buy another 4 jaw chuck with 4 key holes? I'm a total noob, so please forgive me my trivial questions.
Thanks for the review. I too just bought one. Can you comment on making the gears. Was thinking of doing something similar and wondering about material and sizes. Like the tool post - i need to get one.
Sweet! Got a G0752 but only want to keep it for manual machining. Bought the Centroid Acorn and CNC12 Mill Package purely on your videos, and it's great! Thank you for selling me on that! Also got that honking 12NM closed loop stepper from Stepperonline for my mill Z axis. What a beast! Their engineering support is excellent. They respond quickly considering the time difference between here and China. My question to you is, for practical use, what steps per motor rev do you set your drivers to? Been looking for a mini lathe to CNC and I think this is it! Thanks Franco for all the info you share!
Bought this lathe for 1300 on vevor, it had thread selection switches. It's junk I think. I've had it little over a year and it has problems in every screw hole.
Moth balls are used for rust prevention during shipping and storage. As bad as the smell is, it would have been worse if it was doused with the Chinese grease, requiring a complete disassembly and degreasing.
I wouldn't mind a set of the gears for mine. Any chance of a set?, Price?, Or even the plans so I can see if I can get someone to make/print me some. Thanks
That "high" feed rate is for threading, no? You can actually cut feeding? For feeding, you should have another handle, no? I see, that everybody is using those pointy insert tools, but why?
Nice video! If you, the respected reader, could choose (same price) between this WM210V and a Paulimot PM190-V, would you go for the larger, 4 cm, rough bore hole China model or for the quality finish but 2 cm bore hole German model? 🤣 it's a question about the lathies...
I would not buy this lathe again. I suspect all of these are made in Asia but not all importers require the same quality from the manufacturer. I'd buy from a more reputable distributor.
This is a really good video to show us how this thing works. I just acquired one today and I'm wondering if you could provide the 3D printer files for the gears? I have a risen printer that I think would work perfect for them and there's no sense in starting from scratch if you don't mind sharing the files?
Hi. The links are in the description of the video and pasted below. You will be able to download them in several different formats including STL. Have Fun! Gear Assembly: a360.co/3cc2oOQ 90-20-Gear: a360.co/3nLyxVe 100-20-Gear: a360.co/3tOr4ps 110-Gear: a360.co/2Z9azcq
I really don't know how I missed that. I could have sworn I clicked on the video description and looked through everything and saw nothing but they are there. Thank you for this
Hi, thanks for the vid I have ordered one of these with metal gears. Could you possibly tell me what the maximum shank of the cutting tool size is for the original tool post. I have not been able to clarify it on the Internet. Some say 8mm some say 12mm, but that may be confused with the quick change tool post Thanks for any help.
yes it does (feeds in both directions), it's fixed to the spindle tho out of the box (once the half nuts are engaged). If u intend to turn LH threads (carriage moving to right when spindle turns top towards u) it needs a mod that adds another gear into the train for as long as needed (vids about this are around).
I just bought a used mx-210v. the extra gears are missing. can I get a print on the gears you made? I can get a friend to print them for me. Im going to see if I can get this lathe to work for me before i resell it. thanks in advance.
Franco, nice video. Im thinking of buying this machine. If i do can you make me the gears on your CNC and send me them with instructions for fitting. Im happy to pay you for this if you give me a price.
if not spindle bore 1.5", could the chuck be chnaged to one with a 1.5" bore? im asking if you can put a 1.5" stock thru it , with and without chuck injstalled
Turn the Compound 90 degrees an you have 3" + 2" or 5 inches of total travel more than enough in the unlikely case you would need to face a full 8 inches on an 8 inch hobby lathe.
Hi after I watched your video I order this lathe it come in yesterday and after we set this up motor won't work I plugged in the power push the green button and selected the direction the motor to turn I get the screen to turn on but wen I tray the potentiometer to start the motor it won't turn is there anyone that can possible help me to solve this issue please. Thank you.
I've been looking at these for the small size and large through bore. Now that you've had the lathe for a year I'm wondering if you can answer a few questions. What's the actual distance from the chuck mounting plate to a dead center in the tailstock? They say it's 16" between centers but that seems a little optimistic. How is the motors torque at low speeds? Have you run into any major issues?
@@bradfrancola8485 Thanks for the reply. Guess I'm just gonna have to save up for a PM-1127. It's longer than I need but seems to be the best option as far as quality and price in that spindle bore size.
I'm in the market for this lathe. I'm looking to do a lot of imperial threading. I see some more common imperial thread pitches are missing from the chart. Do you know if optional gears can be 3D printed to yield 16 and 24 tpi pitches ? (I too have a 3D printer) Thanks !
I've found out that some of the imperial settings from this chart are inaccurate. If you need 24tpi=>1,058mm try: A:84, B:72, C:33, D:60, E:50 - gives you 1,056mm... with standard gears from this lathe.
@@FrancoCNC It seems to be a more capable machine than the 7" and with some modifications to strenghen the compound already with a more torquee motor it would be worth trying if a beefer tool post would help.
Outstanding review. First one I've come across where the reviewer has actually done some turning. I'm impressed you saw through the faults and still appreciate it is a good machine.
Moth balls are an excellent rust inhibitor. The same chemical was probably applied to the lathe to prevent corrosion during shipping and storage.
Hi Franco. Try running the lathe without the chuck and backplate (spindle only) to see if it still vibrates. If it does not vibrate, run the lathe with the backplate only (no chuck). If the backplate is the cause of the vibration and it has extra holes for mounting different chucks, try filling the unused holes with steel plugs to see if that helps.
well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I've been looking at this size of lathe for a while. As far as I can tell, there are a couple different versions of the so-called 8" Chinese lathe, made by at least 2 companies; the Sieg C4 and "Weiss" (not exactly sure if that's the factory name) *-210V (or variant). The one shown in the video is the latter. They have different spindle bores running from 20mm to 38mm and different center to center lengths; the smaller C-C lengths seem to have the smaller spindle bores or it's based on the motor size, perhaps. The swing over bed diameters are either around 8.2" or 8.7" (Little Machine Shop calls them '8.5"'). From the latest results for 8" x 16" lathes on Ebay, Aliexpress and elsewhere, most I've seen are the 38mm bore *-210V variants. It's a headache figuring out the different configs.
As for the gear train, the steel change (spur) gears are metric Module 1 (M1), 20 degree pressure angle (industry default), with bore sizes are either 12mm or 16mm. One can find 12mm diameter sets on Amazon or Ebay. Little Machine Shop sells a large set 16mm bore size (with 4mm keyway) change gears (up to 127T). littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4583&category=1963256896
Alternatively, one could go to Stock Drive Products (www.sdp-si.com) and look under metric M1 hubless spur gears (20 degree P/A is your only choice) in your choice of material based on tooth count. The bore sizes only go up to 10mm for hubless gears, so you'd have to open up the bore and cut a keyway. shop.sdp-si.com/catalog/?cid=p591&filter=&sort=undefined&view=table
The powerfeed feed rate in X is determined by all the spur gears, including the drive gear on the spindle shaft, and the spindle speed (no kidding...). The 20mm spindle bore versions either have a .0025" (not too bad) or a .0037" slow feed (I've seen both) and the 38mm bore size versions (I've seen) have a feed rate of .0038" (feed/threading panel). So to get a slower feed rate, one has to come up with a "better" combination of the spur gears. There are online calculators that can be used to determine thread pitch cutting sizes based on the lead screw pitch and listing all the spur gears you have (and the drive gear) by the number of teeth. Using the calculator and the combined set of change gears that come standard, and any others that one can get, I found that I could think up "imaginary" (very small--150 TPI or .05mm pitch) thread pitches by "gaming" out the different all the combinations of the gears available. Since the thread pitch is the cutting distance in X, choose TPI or metric pitch. Here is one calculator I like: kachurovskiy.com/gears/
Hope this helps.
Dear sir, i also have this type of mini lathe in my home, the problem is, i would love to make a custom thread dial indicator for this machine but i don't know how to do the math to choose a perfect gear combination to match the lead screw of this machine. Would you share if you know how to calculate the thread pitch of the lead screw to match the thread dial indicator gear? Sorry for my english.
Thanks for the video, gave me confidence to pull the trigger. Just ordered one to Florida for $815 shipped. I'm in Alabama but close to border so it was worth the savings in tax, only thing I miss about Florida is no online sales tax.
Do you have a link where you bought yours from ??
One thing I've found out about this lathe since I've owned mine for little over 6 months. The headstock bearings are tapered on the chuck side and standard ball bearing on the belt side. After a misshap with my auto feed I developed a bit of chatter in my cuts and determined that the headstock had about 2-3 thou of play. Also my lathes combo feed is hollow aluminum and the gib is a bit smaller than I would like. Lastly I mounted a 6" independent 4-jaw chuck and needed to get an adaptor back plate but couldn't find one quickly so I tried to make one but it's not 100% to my liking.
For those of you looking at this lathe on eBay there’s one problem you need to be aware of on the tail stock. Underneath the tail stock there’s a bolt that’s over length that you’re gonna have to cut off in order to be able to slide it because if you don’t cut it down it’s going to hit on these little spots on the bed that are spaced a few inches apart. Next thing you need to know is no matter how you adjust the tail stock to tighten it down it’s not gonna drill a hole bigger than a 5/16 before it starts sliding itself back. One fix I came up with when trying to drill a 1 inch hole was take you a piece of 3/8 flat bar just big enough to sit on the end of the bed and drill and tap it to attach there. And you wanna drill a hole in that plate I was just talking about lining it up with the back of the tail stock and tap it for whatever size threaded rod you wanna use to screw against the tail stock to prevent it from sliding back when you’re drilling hole.
Oh and by the way , a lot of these Chinese lathes come with a twist in the bed that nothing can be done about. You can bolt them down to a bench all you want to attempt to take some of the twist out of the bed but good luck with that
Sorry if this has been covered, or if I misunderstood your description of the chuck mount fitment issue. It is normal for the backplate to require a little more turning to true it up on your exact lathe as any two lathes of the same specification from the same manufacturer in the same batch will have small deviations. In order to get the chuck to run as true as possible the backplate is finished on the lathe on which it is to be used. I think that's the issue you had, though it would surprise me if that was the case and it wasn't mentioned in the documentation.
A lot of the vibrations on mine were eliminated by changing the screw in the motor pulley to a grub screw instead of a long M6 cap head bolt! Another issue which i considered massive was the chuck not having a back plate in it. It would appear the chuck started life with a smaller through capacity and has been machined out to 38mm which broke into the screw holes securing the back plate, so they left it off! There is room to drill and tap new holes so i made a new plate. Without this plate the gears and worm in the chuck would get filled with swarf. This is my 3rd china lathe and is a bit short on features but i wanted that 38mm! There is no reverse for the lead screw direction, no dial indicator for saddle travel engagement, both of which my 7x14 has. Both easily sorted with a bit of engineering though.
Which lathe did you end up going with?
@@rksg2003 I got the mx400 but had to do a lot of work to make it how i wanted it. Lead screw reverse, toothed belt drive, thrust bearing on all the lead screws and a Pratt burnerd Chuck. It's done a lot of work now and works great!
I have an Mx-210v myself. And I don’t regret buying it
140 lbs?! Jeeze. I just man-handled one of these onto my workbench a few days ago... I didn't think it weight quite that much. Thanks for this vid!
It’s likely the “shipping weight”.
If you replace the spindle, ball, bearings with annular roller bearings and set the spindle side play a lot of the vibration will disappear and your machined surface will also improve. Ball bearings have no provision for side play adjustment so your spindle will dance back and forth as it spins causing crappy surface finish.
I almost bought that lathe, but went with a PM-1228 instead. A 1.5” bore was important to me too. You can put some igaging DROs on there to get around the metric dials and add some additional precision for about $150.
That pm-1228 sells for almost 4000.00 us, this one for 820.00. Was it worth 4 times more money or did you get a good deal on one?
You could remove the shipping plate from beneath your quick change since there's enough adjustment in your tool holders.
no, there is a boss on the top of the compound where the QCTP won't fit over.. the plate is there to bring the TP up to the bosses height.
I just ordered a WM210V yesterday, looks like exactly the same model as this one. Very glad to see it's not a bad machine at all. The 38mm spindle bore was what sold me on it also :D I can fit 2020 extrusion through that, which is awesome. Also ordered it with a 4-jaw chuck... not sure if it's independent or scrolling, but I guess I'll find out when it arrives. Really looking forward to it, I've wanted a lathe for years now.
How has the wm210v treated ya
@@rc_fleet472 so far it's been great 👍 I still need to get a ton of tooling for it, but haven't had any issues. It's a solid piece of kit.
May want to put a variable speed motor or stepper connected to the leadscrew (tail end) to control feed rates - much easier than printing and changing gears. I did this on mine cuz I didn't like the gear noise (SouthBend 9A) and it works great! This will also allow you to auto feed either direction.
Funny you should say that, I have an old 1930 Colchester Bantam and it only has a leadscrew drive which I don't use for feed purpose due to having to move the change wheels around.....so I toyed with the idea of fitting a small 3 phase motor to drive the saddle with a VFD.....seems like it is a good idea after all.
@@gangleweed I used a 90VDC treadmill motor and a 10kw SCR controller with a rectifier to control the speed. VFD will work but may not provide sufficient torque at low RPM.
@@martik778 Yes, that will work for driving the leadscrew and saddle like any other motor you can control or a stepper motor and pulse generator etc......torque is not a big issue for feed drive but for a headstock drive the problem of torque is fixed with a bigger motor.
I had the thought it might be possible to do that. With an encoder or something to measure the position of the spindle, an arduino might be able to give you infinitely variable feed rates by 'software'
The mini lathes always look so fun and every time I watch your videos I either wanna by a mill or a lathe. But I feel like i really should just wait a little longer and save my money to get either a TL-1 Haas lathe or TM-1 Haas mill. You can find these sometimes used for a decent price. Best thing about Haas is you can program parts just handwriting G and M code. I could literally write a drill, turn, and bore program within 5 min. And with it being a Haas it has the rigidity to take bigger cuts and actually feed hard enough to break a chip.
Without doubt, a Haas mill or lathe would be better in almost every way.
I know I'm very late here bht one complaint i see often with this brand is the speed controller only has low to high but not off. I also dont like the idea of having to engage the drive of the lathe to turb it on. You could possibly remove the potentiometer and check its resistance values. Then find a replacement with the same values but has a disengage when turned fully counter clockwise. For me though I'd rather be able to set the speed and then give power to the spindle.
Like the 3D gear idea. If you ever need to upgrade you can order a PM1236 in a custom length of 24" or 16". Needs to be ordered from Taiwan so there is a wait. I have a 24" version. I'm pretty sure you can do same with 13" swing machine.
Hi Franco, great review, very useful.
I really enjoyed watching your video. I especially liked the comments section. I was pondering on rather buying this one or the grizzly G0768. Which is almost twice the price. I had a HF mini mill 7x10 loved it but heck so much work just too get it right and then up and quit on me. 4x But HF was excellent they swapped it out all 3x with no hassle on the 4th I just asked for my money back and they refunded me with no problem. Anyway I think I will spend the extra money and hopefully get a better machine. Thanks. 🤪🤪🤪
The 38mm spindle bore is nice but a 160mm chuck is needed to take advantage of it.
You can safely bore out the Chuck but you need to make a new internal cover to protect the chucks gears.
if i wore to get one could you supply gears like you made??? thanks for all the great content!
metric dials! i'm sold! getting one now
Metric dials but American voltage, sounds good
I've been looking at these really hard. Because some of them have a 1 1/2 spindle bore.
@Chad, did you pull the trigger on this machine? If so does the chuck also have a 1.5" spindle bore and have you found a four jaw chuck with the same?
Thanks
Camphor (Moth balls) is a rust inhibitor
Yeah. It was literally mothballs lol
It's oiled with a solution that has camphor in it because it sublimes and gets everywhere. You cannot get rid of it mechanically on small areas because it will sublime from somewhere else and precipitate there. It's like a fogging on cold object in a misty room. But that's the point, it closes off oxygen.
As for the dirt, it's probably from shipping. Oils LOVE dust.
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 Yeah, Old timers (Machinists) use to keep a block of Camphor in some of their tool drawers to keep their tools like v-blocks and other set up blocks from rusting. I don't think I could stand the smell. Today it is easier to use something like Boeshield or LPS or line them with VCI paper.
@@rhost714 Not gonna lie I love the smell of it because I never smelled it before and don't associate it with old rags
sounds like the plastic gears have another benefit in being quieter think i would prefer nylon gears and keep the steel ones when doing screw cutting .
Cheap is your buddy that never picks up the Bar Bill! inexpensive is the Chinese Laths!
Great video, I just got mine last week. Let me know if I could buy a set of the plastic gears from you. Thank you.
If you’re happy with the 3D printed gears have you considered finding a source to make metal versions?
Awesome video, stilll wondering where you were able to pick this up so cheap. All of them seem to be around 1100 no tax included, also do you have a post where others can download the gears? Thanks!
I would love to know if you're still happy with this lathe - in Canada it seems to be the only lathe less than $3000 with more capacity than a $1300 7x12 (it retails for around $1550). I'll be doing mostly plastics with some brass/aluminum/nickel silver, and would love to get a DRO onto it!
Well, to be honest with you, I would not buy this lathe again. I would buy something more expensive from Precision Matthews. But, if you are on a budget, then this is a good option.
@@FrancoCNC what are you least happy with? since I don't do metals as a machnist, and i'm mostly worried about getting plastics to certain dimensions, feed rates/threading aren't as big of a deal for me. i may consider putting an ELS on it for the threading that I do, as I couldn't be bothered with changing the gears that often! :)
@@guitarchitectural I just had a HayWHNKN 8 x31 (WM-210) dropped off through Amazon last week. Free delivery and It arrived in near perfect condition. The run out out of the box on the three jaw chuck is within .001". I bought it with zero tooling because I'm a bit picky with that respect. It's not a bad manual lathe for a beginner. Also I was able to pick the thing up off the crate and put it on my workbench. There is only one gear that is not aligned well, but that is easily fixed with a shorter spacer. I disassembled it thoroughly to make sure that there was no leftover machining bits left anywhere, but it was pretty good. I must have got a good one. Time will tell. Cheers!
Good video! Would have slowing down the D.C. motor with a rheostat helped with the threading speed?
For as anyone who has a lathe with a leadscrew powered feed build a DC variable feed drive for the Z axis.
Did you ever happen to test the motor specs? This model seems to sell in two versions 750w and 1000w. It would be nice to know if those values are correct or inflated when comparing to grizzly, pm, little machine shop etc.
Thanks
I know this is a 4 year old video, but any way you still have the 2d printed gear files? There in the link above.
Hey, can you re-share the gears? Links are not working and they are exactly what I need!
Great review, thank you. I used a geared electric motor to slow down the feed on my Warco wm250 (uk) lathe of asian origin, works well.
Graham Hall why did you not just say China instead of saying Asian origin.
i got har fre red mini laithe for 480$ total, 30% off /a red plastic cracked cover l fixed. This one is nice too, all the junk need work.
Great Video, Franco. I love the 3D Printed Gears!
excellent. looks like drive gears are powered by belt, looks like the belt could be repositioned, would repositioning the belt slow down the feed rate?
nope, belt goes from motor to spindle.. leadscrew is driven by gear on spindle via the geartrain he was modding by using printed high ratio gear combinations
I have just received mine, which looks identical, but it has 800mm distance between the centers.
the machine was well setup, tail stock was perfectly aligned too.
the overall quality was very very good towards my surprise.
I bought AXA 100 series QTCP, and it doesn't fit, also looks a little oversized.
I also bought OXA 000 series QTCP, and it seems a little too small?
also I have to deal with that 10 mm high 17.7 mm diameter stud sticking out of the compound, which fits into the original tool post, but doesn't allow me to simply put the AXA or OXA.
how did you modify the plate? simply by boring the 17.7 mm hole to accommodate the compound stud? did you film the QTCP modifications process?
I haven't tried my lathe yet, but from the quick inspection, there is no parts slack, everything is nicely tight and feels rigid out of the box.
It came with the 4 jaws chuck (my choice), but it only has 2 key holes, so I guess it tightens the jaws symmetrically in pairs. not sure how to mount the rectangular object off center, maybe I need to buy another 4 jaw chuck with 4 key holes? I'm a total noob, so please forgive me my trivial questions.
I see you have put cnc parts on the list of parts are you going to make this lathe cnc and thank you for sharing your file's for the gear's
The machine is covered for rust proofing, while is stored/shipped. All new machines are like that.
Hello and thank you for the review and information. Would you be able to share the .stl files for your feed gears?
that would be very nice and helpful
Thanks for the review. I too just bought one. Can you comment on making the gears. Was thinking of doing something similar and wondering about material and sizes. Like the tool post - i need to get one.
Find an broken pasta machine or paper shredder and scavenge the motor and gears.
Sweet! Got a G0752 but only want to keep it for manual machining. Bought the Centroid Acorn and CNC12 Mill Package purely on your videos, and it's great! Thank you for selling me on that! Also got that honking 12NM closed loop stepper from Stepperonline for my mill Z axis. What a beast! Their engineering support is excellent. They respond quickly considering the time difference between here and China. My question to you is, for practical use, what steps per motor rev do you set your drivers to?
Been looking for a mini lathe to CNC and I think this is it! Thanks Franco for all the info you share!
Bought this lathe for 1300 on vevor, it had thread selection switches.
It's junk I think. I've had it little over a year and it has problems in every screw hole.
I love the 3d printed gears idea. Any chance you could make and sell me a set?
Can you share your gears STL or SLDPRT models?!
Moth balls are used for rust prevention during shipping and storage. As bad as the smell is, it would have been worse if it was doused with the Chinese grease, requiring a complete disassembly and degreasing.
try an NU210E it is full electronic without gears.
WOW you did a lot of work to get this lathe operational!!!!
Mine came yesterday ,great vid 👍
The 38 mm bore doesn't run smoothly like 24 mm. The wall of the spindle is a lot thinner.
the 22mm spindle has got a 4mm wall thickness.. what is it for the 38mm?
I wouldn't mind a set of the gears for mine. Any chance of a set?, Price?, Or even the plans so I can see if I can get someone to make/print me some. Thanks
I have no doubt whatsoever the next video will have an Electronic Lead Screw
Mine came with the safety guard already bypassed I was very happy about that lol
That "high" feed rate is for threading, no? You can actually cut feeding? For feeding, you should have another handle, no? I see, that everybody is using those pointy insert tools, but why?
Nice video! If you, the respected reader, could choose (same price) between this WM210V and a Paulimot PM190-V, would you go for the larger, 4 cm, rough bore hole China model or for the quality finish but 2 cm bore hole German model? 🤣 it's a question about the lathies...
I would not buy this lathe again. I suspect all of these are made in Asia but not all importers require the same quality from the manufacturer. I'd buy from a more reputable distributor.
@@FrancoCNC Thank you kindly for your quick reply!
Good Video Franco! What would it cost to print up a set of plastic gears that would make threading more useful?
This is a really good video to show us how this thing works. I just acquired one today and I'm wondering if you could provide the 3D printer files for the gears? I have a risen printer that I think would work perfect for them and there's no sense in starting from scratch if you don't mind sharing the files?
Hi. The links are in the description of the video and pasted below. You will be able to download them in several different formats including STL. Have Fun!
Gear Assembly: a360.co/3cc2oOQ
90-20-Gear: a360.co/3nLyxVe
100-20-Gear: a360.co/3tOr4ps
110-Gear: a360.co/2Z9azcq
I really don't know how I missed that. I could have sworn I clicked on the video description and looked through everything and saw nothing but they are there. Thank you for this
Can you share the link where you bought your lathe from
Yup dirt and grit everywhere
some where i heard these 8" lathes dont cut counter clockwise or left hand. threads but the 7" lathes cut both directions ?
There are no tumbler gears on these lathes. The 7" lathe has them.
Most I see on eBay say .8” bore ? Can you point me to the 1.5”? Thanks
Very cool!
Hi, thanks for the vid I have ordered one of these with metal gears. Could you possibly tell me what the maximum shank of the cutting tool size is for the original tool post. I have not been able to clarify it on the Internet. Some say 8mm some say 12mm, but that may be confused with the quick change tool post Thanks for any help.
hello I would like to buy this tour. but I have a question please:
the auto feed screw can it move in both directions of rotation? thank you
yes it does (feeds in both directions), it's fixed to the spindle tho out of the box (once the half nuts are engaged). If u intend to turn LH threads (carriage moving to right when spindle turns top towards u) it needs a mod that adds another gear into the train for as long as needed (vids about this are around).
Отличный станок у самого такой же. Лайк и подписка!
Also, have you added a Thread Dial Indicator to this machine ???
Those spindle bearings sound like an engine about to explode!
Hi Franco
I should like a set of your gears. How much to make me a set. I live in the uk. Alternatively could you let me have your .stl files.
Hi i am looking for operator manual for WM210V Thank's
Does anyone know who makes a quick change tool post that is a bolt on fit on the MX-210V Lathe?
Not sure I'll get an answer, coming late to this video. Are those gears you 3D printed for Imperial or Metric treads?
they are for feeding, not threading
I just bought a used mx-210v. the extra gears are missing. can I get a print on the gears you made? I can get a friend to print them for me. Im going to see if I can get this lathe to work for me before i resell it. thanks in advance.
Check out the description there should be links there
great vid. thanks
i hate mine, how is yours 4 months later?
Will you 1.5 inch spindle bore accept 1.5 inch stock? Or is there not enough clearance.
Franco, nice video. Im thinking of buying this machine. If i do can you make me the gears on your CNC and send me them with instructions for fitting. Im happy to pay you for this if you give me a price.
Pretty sure the need to machine the chuck would be a deal breaker for most... good vid, thanks.
if not spindle bore 1.5", could the chuck be chnaged to one with a 1.5" bore? im asking if you can put a 1.5" stock thru it , with and without chuck injstalled
Franco
Does this machine come with a metric lead screw ???
Thanks for sharing this video
metric dials most likely means metric ls, mine has got 2mm pitch, but its not the one in the vid but one of its cousins (optimum tu2004v)
the sprocket are plastic? thank you
Did you possibly share you 3D gears on Thingiverse?
If you don't have 4" of travel on the cross slide, you don't have an 8" lathe, right?
An 8" lathe is one with a 4"centre height or having a swing of 8 Inches over the bed.
That 4" is the radius which is half the diameter so 4+ 4 IS 8 8".
@@bloop6812 Right.
Turn the Compound 90 degrees an you have 3" + 2" or 5 inches of total travel more than enough in the unlikely case you would need to face a full 8 inches on an 8 inch hobby lathe.
You can get a better finish off that cutter, use more of edge vs nose.
Hi after I watched your video I order this lathe it come in yesterday and after we set this up motor won't work I plugged in the power push the green button and selected the direction the motor to turn I get the screen to turn on but wen I tray the potentiometer to start the motor it won't turn is there anyone that can possible help me to solve this issue please.
Thank you.
I've been looking at these for the small size and large through bore. Now that you've had the lathe for a year I'm wondering if you can answer a few questions.
What's the actual distance from the chuck mounting plate to a dead center in the tailstock? They say it's 16" between centers but that seems a little optimistic.
How is the motors torque at low speeds?
Have you run into any major issues?
I would not buy this lathe again.
@@bradfrancola8485 Thanks for the reply. Guess I'm just gonna have to save up for a PM-1127. It's longer than I need but seems to be the best option as far as quality and price in that spindle bore size.
I'm in the market for this lathe. I'm looking to do a lot of imperial threading. I see some more common imperial thread pitches are missing from the chart. Do you know if optional gears can be 3D printed to yield 16 and 24 tpi pitches ? (I too have a 3D printer) Thanks !
I've found out that some of the imperial settings from this chart are inaccurate. If you need 24tpi=>1,058mm try: A:84, B:72, C:33, D:60, E:50 - gives you 1,056mm... with standard gears from this lathe.
OK good it has 1.5” spindle bore. Does the chuck also has 1.5” through hole?
Yes
@@FrancoCNC I didn’t catch that we have a 6” chuck?
What's all the chatter? Sound like it's ready to grenade.
Check the sound levels.... they are oscillating.
It'a because the mic is on board whatever camera the cameraman is using.
Did it sound that "jittery" with the original steel gears?
No. They were better.
Maybe you could print out a label or cover to put over the metric units and convert them to inches.
Do you know what your spindle runout was/is?
Franco, I have the room for the Mattews but not the finances!
Any lathe is better than not having one, right?
@@FrancoCNC Nope, a lathe is for life.....buy cheap and it never gets better.
@@gangleweed Chinese lathes can be made better by the owner you are only limited by skill and imagination....
The Qctp seems to be the good size though some got the AXA 250-100 instead. What do you think ?
Well, I used the QCTP I purchased for my 7" mini lathe and it seems to fit perfectly. No complaints and it seems to be a good size for the machine.
@@FrancoCNC It seems to be a more capable machine than the 7" and with some modifications to strenghen the compound already with a more torquee motor it would be worth trying if a beefer tool post would help.