*Coming up on having had this saw for a year....am a casual user and bought it to cut up sections for bowl blanks. Easy to start, **Bestfor.Garden** also recommend even after storage for a couple of months. Simple chain tension adjustment. Just cut up some 20" Osage Orange, including ripping bolts in half (at an angle). Like butter!*
*push the primer 6 times and let it rip I like the saw for the price👀 **allabout.wiki/Echo-CS** used maybe 10 tanks of fuel, 6 loads of hard wood and am very pleased with it. some will say its under powered for a 20" but I like it better then a 18". I have a 18" also which is great also just like the extra 2" inches. the saw is very light also which is nice. Huskavarna owns Echo so I am sure it will last. its not a sthl but still love it! I have seen some bad reviews on the saw but do not agree with them. some people told me not to waste my money but have since changed there mind. just have some common sense and cut some wood!*
Hi all the way from Suffolk England 😁very clear video! And I can now see you realise its a carving bar. The problem with carving bars is that you need to run the chain a lot slacker due to no sprocket in the nose, which is dangerous in the trees. I'm a full time arborist, and have just picked up 2 new Tes echoes. It's really important that people must be made aware if your changing drive sprockets to more teeth, Say 7 - 8 that you change or make sure your P. P. E protective trousers ect. Are able to cope with a faster saw, as the standard R. P. Ms will change. And won't do there job proply. Safty first. Thanks for a great video Stay safe Gareth 👍
Hey thanks for the info, And ya I got a 14 inch stihl bar on it now. Just so you know I didnt seem to gain much from the timing advance. Muffler mods probably the easiest safest way to get a bit more out of it.
No offence Gareth but I've ran the now stock carving style bar that it comes supplied with on 1/4 pitch and not thrown a single chain and i've taken the piss with the little bugger. Yes a little blueing on the underside of the nose but its heat treated so not a problem. Go PANTHER 1/4 0.43 bar and chain though.......different league isn't it
@@thecdoggydog2328 it is a very good chain. Stays sharp reasonable. And they come without the extra saftey rakers. What isnt as good as aimed for are the bars, they are fast used up. Better take a tsumara bar or a Stihl carving bar. The stock chain is much fatter as the 1/4 panther chain. What else? The chains are somewhat likewise to a Stihl picco so... there are options to buy.
Hey no problem, that should help out alot, I'm pissed off I dropped mine and it hasn't been running right, But other than that very impressive for a small saw.
Well done my man, you explained that to a Tee, I learn better with hands on but sometimes it get get a lil pricey best thing I learned is take you time .
Awesome video liked seeing you showing off your mechanical side it seems like itll really rip once u break it in and turn up the high side cant wait for the first cuts with it good job
Thanks man, I hope once it breaks in a bit more I get the gains I was hoping for, I think the chain is a big factor for this little saw, I will get it in some wood soon. 👊
@@PoplarMechanic yea i know what youre saying cause my polesaw runs the quarter and it cuts pretty smooth compared to my old one that ran 3/8lp hopefully the 1/4 will make it a little ripper👍🏼
Man I'm being totally honest dude this video is badass I really enjoyed it I'm pretty excited I want to go buy one and do the same thing you did I wish you would have came out with your video before I bought mine it would have saved me a lot of money I've never disassembled a perfectly new chainsaw was it easy to remove the cylinder and put it back on ? And is the gasket delete you just Mount the cylinder to the saw with no gasket is that what that is?sorry for the dumb question . Does it seem to run with no problems without having the gasket on there? Lol 😆 I don't know why but I was smiling the whole time watching your video keep us updated on the saw good job
Haha I'm glad your interested, your saw would be done at a much higher skill level than mine, you probably had the decking milled down so it can still run a gasket among other features that only years of experience could teach. This is just like how to get some extra power from your saw without a lot of experience or money. As far as the gasket goes, you just put some gasket sealer on it like yamabond. This just makes it so it doesnt leak air, You could also use a beer can gasket wich is a bit safer but not as tight.
And yes the echo is really easy the crank comes right out with the cylinder, in addition to that echos only run 1 ring instead of 2 like stihl, so that makes it easier to get the piston back in, Alot easier actually.
It doesnt weaken the key way, the shaft is tapered. Once you bolt it on you are good, But you could do it anyway you want I suppose. It's just the way I do it Thanks for watching.
No this was more of a test at this point in time, if I could do it again and I will at some point I would do the transfers, I'm going to put a wheel on it to get the timing eventually. The muffler mod helps this thing alot the timing advance isn't too noticeable.
@@bethanyhaskiell9116 in my opinion for someone that isn't willing to do all the hard work of porting. I would say muffler mod and 1/4 set up yields the most performance gains. If your willing to clean up transfers to improve flow and put a degree wheel on it I'm sure there would be more gains to be had, I'm just learning about degree wheels and what affect raising and lowering ports can do. So one day I will put the wheel on the echo but right now im working on my 385xp. Hope that helps it's a strong little saw as is.
I just do my own, I'm still learning so I wouldn't be confident taking on someone else's saws. Look up Sawgreater on youtube. Hes my buddy, I'm pretty sure hes taking them on.
I haven't tried it yet, I've got a new stihl bar for it, I'll have a video hopefully soon, My garage is full right now because we had a flood. When I get it back in order I will make the video.
Nice build. A little tip: take the key out of the crank, and file it down to advance the timing. Leave the flywheel alone. Now you can just flip the key over if you want to go back, or get a new key. Easiest way to file the key is to put it in a pair of vice grips, secure that in a vice and use a flat file to take material off.
Ya great advice thank you, I figured that out shortly after. I guess people sell keys they have set up for the advance. Anyway the timing advance didnt seem to do much for this saw. Thanks for the information. 👌
@@PoplarMechanic If it is in fact an electronically limited ignition I am not surprised, they normally taper the advance back out of the curve at high RPMs as a means to limit max RPM which is where you would see the gains from advanced timing.
Go into the description on Ebay here it shows the part numbers, And chain to use I got one of these bars a guy machines them. www.ebay.com/itm/BAR-ONLY-14-stihl-1-4-pitch-conversion-BAR-for-ECHO-CS2511t-355T-330T-360T/123759609814?epid=668130947&hash=item1cd0a5c7d6:g:jmoAAOSwgJ1cZ5tL
Can someone tell me what he means by how an eight tooth gives more speed and a gauge gives fiber cuts? I’m new to sawing but would like to learn how to mod an old chainsaw in order to get more life out of what seems to be a good chainsaw
The 43 gauge is a thinner bar from left to right when looking down on the saw from behind (it's also more narrow top to bottom near the tip, but that's irrelevant to your question). Therefore It runs a more narrow kerf, which is literally a finer, or thinner, cut. The ting to watch out for is that the bar being thinner means it has less strength to resist a bend. This is not a mod I would suggest for newer operators on larger saws or older saws unless you are using one with an Alaskan saw mill and want to reduce waste.
No, it won't. You can do a modification to make it work. Get some good drill bits. The steel is hard af, lol. If you want, drop me your email, and I will send you bar pictures so you can modify it to work.
Thanks man appreciate it, I was enjoying it until I dropped it from a tree. I got the cosmetic parts but it doesnt run quite right now could be an air leak. But either way I'll fix it and do an update.
Actually I can't remember the stock squish but 20 thousandths is where you want most saws, you can go a little tighter on the small ones if you have a lathe you can machine the base to 20 thow or you can just delete the gasket and call her good
@@darrengarlough5121 I appreciate that. I'm still learning though so I wouldn't feel comfortable taking money for it. The 200t sure turned out nice. The echo should be plenty good with the muffler mod, Not alot of room to work on the cylinder without proper equipment anyway. Good luck and remember to start with a small bit if you are using a drill the metal is really weak.
@@PoplarMechanic literally the only person i seen have them are jack. At least echo once decided that they weren't putting dawgs on the 2511 they still put the threaded holes in the case to have the option to do so if wanted at least.
@@PoplarMechanic the video before the video I suggested you to watch that jack did after he did the port work he was having some extreme chatter which i know him and it wasn't his bad having the chain to aggressive or anything like that so i watched the video again and noticed the saw didn't have dawgs on it just like the 192t so then asked him if he thought a set would help with the chatter? He told me it didn't come with any but there is the holes to accept some. 1 to 2 days later he came out with the next video. Even someone like August seems to sometimes struggle cutting through bigger stuff with that saw ported as well and you can tell it's because he is trying to force the saw through the wood being there isn't dawgs to aid with this problem on his.
@@andrewream5279 yea I totally get what you mean, I will cover this on the next video. It is really helpful in larger pieces when you dont want the wood to run right into the saw causing it to stop the chain, You need the dogs to cut smooth and allow for a controlled amount of leverage. This is good stuff 👊
I do this to my ms660 an my ms661. My ms660 is going to get a pop up piston an machine the head down a few 1,000s. The ms661 will get a carb swap soon.
Ya I got a lathe on the way now man, getting sick of gasket gunk even though it does work, I should be able to make pop ups and machine bases wich is really nice, after I figure it out that is lol
Would of like to seen more on the installation of the 1/4 pitch sprocket. I have a cs-271t and purchased it for carving so I will be converting it to 1/4 as soon as I find out where to get one for a Echo, I have one for my Stihl which has a 12 in dime tip. Where did you get your 1/4 sprocket?
I got it from here. www.sawagain.com/1-4-pitch-8-tooth-clutch-drum-spur-sprocket-fits-echo-cs-2511t-new-oem/ Also the installation is very simple, just use a small impact and remember they are left hand threads, also make sure the plastic piece that the sprocket rests in to spin the oiler is correctly aligned.
I don't like the 0.043" gauge chain, stretches too much. Those carving bars are expensive, and you have to watch your cutters' toes and heels with tight radius tips. Sometimes you have to take a little off the back of each top plate too.
Well I do have another backup bar if I dont like the 43. I'm gonna test them both out. The carving bar would be cool But I'm starting to question the durability. Thanks for comments and watching 👊
Thanks for sharing, hope you keep up the tinkering (and the sharing!!!!), would love to test-out one of these lil 2511's (well, a 3511 really lol!!!) because - god I can feel the hate this is going to generate - because I just got this lil generic 'scheppach csp2540', a 25cc/10" top-handled, and out-of-box it doesn't have any of the spark arresters / muffler-port-blockage that all my other gear came standard with, once my tachometer arrives & I'm able to get baselines and safely mess with my H screw I plan to check the schematics of the muffler [thing came with amazingly thorough manual] to dog out the thing and remove the catalytic if there is one and otherwise just ensure that there's greater-than-or-equal amount of air-passage through that muffler as there is for the exhaust-outlet from the cylinder! I say this because I've found all my name-brand gear to be 'choked' from the factory with restricted mufflers/spark arresters/etc and this scheppach seems to have avoided all that, it's as-if it got some of the modifications out of the way for me lol - at $145, *shipped*, my goal is to get at least 1 more unit so I can not only have a backup to swap-between when doing longer jobs but also have the confidence to really tinker- for someone like you who is doing these things professionally(or nearly-so), I can't help but think of how much fun you could have just dropping $145 or $290 so you could play around - I've already hit the Q of "how much power & heat can this safely take?" and am ordering an IR laser thermometer (hadn't considered this type of thing til, after merely removing the spark-arrester & its retention plate from my Husq 125B, the exhaust's output started melting the plastic body casing ;P ) Thanks again for sharing, these types of vids are awesome I hope you continue tinkering & sharing what you're learning!!!
Hey no problem man! I learn as I go, I have the echo running now, It had a bad coil believe it or not. So I will share once I put the mods back on again, have a good week man! 👊
Makes me want to advance the timing on my SRM266 trimmer now. Already bought a spare $10 muffler to gut and put on it so I don't destroy my good one if it doesn't work out. Not sure how I'm going to get that catalyst out of there but I will one way or another. Pretty sure that blue ignition module does have a rev limiter type deal. My SRM266 has the same looking blue module and it won't rev to the moon like my older Echos will with no load on it. I hate those rev limiters on small engines.
Ya I agree about the rev limiters, I will have a video about the saw soon I actually had a defect in the cylinder wich was not related to mods, there was a small pit just below the exhuast and I thought it may still work but it ended up letting pre detonated fuel/ and or air into exhuast port so when it got hot it didnt want to start again. So when I get the new cylinder I'm gonna play it safe and just do the gasket delete. I'm confident it will be fine, Its been a bit of a headache getting this sucker running the way I want. Thanks for watching. O and be careful with them cats, If it looks like a big honey comb I would leave it, They are a bear to get out and it's important to have back pressure, Not sure what the trimmer one looks like but if you have an extra may not hurt to look.
@@PoplarMechanic Yeah, the trimmers have the big round honeycomb, along with a super choked off 90 degree deflector. I have an older SRM2510 that has basically nothing inside of that muffler and you can even take it apart with a couple of screws. The 2510 is 1CC smaller than the 266 and has about double the power and throttle response, and that 266 isn't weak ! I've had issues with the rev limiters on Stihl 4 mix engines, stupid things won't start or run worth a hoot when it acts up.
Yes I did, But as long as it idles and runs good, I'm not going to do the final tuning until it breaks in, I did turn the high down a bit. And honestly there is alot of good videos if you need to tune a chainsaw from scratch. But I just do it by ear. I can tell if the high jet is too lean, And the low jet I base mostly off of throttle response. I will mention it in my next video when I test the cuts. There will more than likely be some tuning required. Thanks for watching .
Thank you for this video. I’d love some advice. I modified the muffler on my 2511 T, it immediately jump the power up. I’m an arborist and this saw is a perfect weight to power now. The only issue is I’ve had it into two different places to have it re-tuned. Specifically when I shut it down and then go to restart it a few seconds later It will not fire on any number of pulls. Then when I pull it with the throttle wide open it fires right up again. Do you have any idea what this is? I obviously did not adjust any of the timing or do any porting. I’m satisfied with how the saws power has been changed. But starting it this way especially in a tree is not optimum. Any advice is appreciated
So I've had this issue as well, the saw is a bit quirky I would say, fast idle works great to start it after its been shut off just flip the choke on then back off, and then you dont have to squeeze the throttle, Also I find aspen 2 works great for this saw, its a premix 2 stroke fuel and its all I run in it, I have a hunch the air filter has alot to do with the problem, im gonna try the mesh filter soon, hope that helps.
@7min -- LOVE that your conclusion, jug-in-hand, was basically that you saw most-potential in that exhaust-port's rear-end....I hate saying this but I wasn't going to port mine because I found out just how hard it is to get to the jug, you had to dissemble past the crankcase to get that thing in your hands...and I already knew guys were getting about 15% power ONLY from un-restricting the muffler's final exit-area, so I decided-against porting (I'm a small climber, power//weight is the end-all for me!) and figured I'd be able to beat 20% gains by doing the exhaust-port's rear half, and where it mates-up to the muffler (and, of course, the muffler's entryway where it's that choked 90deg turn), so glad to see someone else having done that :D I went further than you lol I went as far as the muff's mounting-holes allowed, and did a meticulous job of port-matching the TWO gaskets (not 3 ;D ) that were there... BTW Re those gaskets, for your open-can design it doesn't matter much, but for one like mine that's actually scavenging and getting back-pressure, sealing to the cylinder is VERY important, I tried to run it w/o that lil "soft, lead-type gasket" and it does NOT work, if you look at the 3rd mounting point on the left side you'll see it's all height-dependent, if you want that muff to meet the exhaust-flange dead-on true, you need to have both of those gaskets' thickness there....my "thin, lead-type" gasket did rip during initial opening-up of things, but thankfully it bent-back into place easily, adn - for porting it - I bolt/sandwich it in-between the thicker plate and the muff (or the exhaust flange) so that it gets port-matched w/o hurting or warping the delicate lil thing! (obviously I am using a VERY meticulously "blocked-up, 100.000%"exhaust port when doing this on an assembled engine!!!)
That's what I get for getting excited & posting before finishing, around 9:30 you clearly DID get about as-much-as-possible at that area of the exhaust-flange, muff-gasket(soft, lead-type) and aluminum heat-shield, I could even see that you used a flat-file on your alum heat-shield to get it nice and perfectly true, I do that on all my gaskets and muffler-entryways to ensure proper mating, I wish there were a gasket-goop that could handle exhaust temps lol (oh and will fully acknowledge you seemed to "get" the idea that the soft, lead-type muff gasket, obviously needing to be trimmed to match, is best done by simply sandwiching it, this preserves its integrity while you grind it, also you do a good job describing it as no chokepoints or however you phrase it, I like to call it "over-matching", if it's something where I'm mounting-up a muffler and I'm port-matching the gasket, I'll leave the bolts loose, push the gasket one way, tighten them & port it -- then loosen the bolts, push the gasket the other way, and port the side that's now needing it....because things never line-up 100.00%, you either MUST over-match your porting here, or you're guaranteed to have some non-zero amount of restriction due to non-perfect mating of the ports!)
Oh no... 10:04....Seeing your new exit hole is adequate, and I know you got the entryway to the muff (and gaskets, and exhaust-flange), BUT that muffler has front & back halves, with a baffle-wall separating them, and there's a hole on the left-side of the baffle wall that allows the gas to get from rear to front....because your baffle hole is still OEM spec, your muff still has a choke-point in it :( You may be able to make a pair of tiny ~1/8" holes in the baffle-wall that you exposed with your new exit-hole, doing a MINOR opening of the baffle-wall there would aid the undersized OEM baffle-hole and overcome the problem, obviously if you did, say, two big 1/2" holes in teh baffle, it'd defeat the muffler and just be "open can" crap which, while allowing cool flow, is unnecessarily noisy, weak, fuel-inefficient and just a suboptimal way to run a powersaw! I'll have a video up on mine to show this baffle hole, will get it posted within a few hours because i've left comments elsewhere about this so I need to show what I mean, cannot find 1 image on GIS for this, if anyone's got a dissected/opened 2511t muffler JPG please share it!!
@@joescissorhands141 hey Joe, thanks for watching, this video is old now and its when the first 2511s came out, I just wanted to see if I can get small gains if any, it was basic mods to test out the saw, ive since learned quite a bit, I now have a lathe and am currently learning alot more about port work and timing. There is a cat inside the muffler, ive seen guys split em and take it right out then weld them up, Seems like alot of work. Now im running a 2511 that my buddy ported for me and it just rips, I didn't have a lathe at the time so I had him do it
Yes, You have a wire off on the switch. I dont have specific experience with the saw, But if you have to open the handle be carefull about the linkage. There may be a small screw to take off the switch. Hope that helps. 👊
Another possibility is- debris gets down inside the switch and will prevent it from making the contact for kill. Oh PM,don't sell yourself short,I just subscribed for a reason;👍!
Yes you can bring the high jet down a little bit if the saw is new ( you should be able to tell if its screaming), If you have the limiter caps on you can still get some adjustment. If it runs and idles good dont touch the low jet, It is finicky on these saws atleast in my experience. But you cant really hurt it with the limiter caps on, I recommend leaving them on actually. Good luck 👊
ok I only feel comfortable drilling a hole in the muffler with my skill level. But my question is should I take the muffler off to do so? And will it still make a difference if I don't go any further inside with other mods?
The 100% proper way would be to take it off drill the hole and blow it out. But you could do it without just dont shoot compressed air into the hole or some may get into the cylinder. Just shake it out and let the engine blow it out. I have done it both ways and had success but do it at your own risk. And yes muffler mod helps any saw. Just dont go to big.
@@darrengarlough5121 honestly I would just leave it alone if it runs good the echo carbs can be finicky. Turn the high jet down a bit if anything. That's all I would do.
Its cutting good but I'm having some issues with it starting warm for some reason. I'm working on it though, I have a feeling it may be spark/ignition coil related.
Hey man I just picked up one of these saws and I love it. The chain is a little too aggressive though and I noticed you put a Stihl bar and a different chain on yours. Can your tell me which bar and chain you got so I can do the same?
Here is the bar part # 3005 008 3409 Here is the chain part # 3670 005 0072 1/4 sprocket part # A556-0001710 Also you will have to drill two holes for the bar to line up properly. Give me your email and I will send you pics of my bar to give you an idea where to drill.
@@stevebrowning5081 well I didnt drill the holes I bought one from ebay wich is now unavailable. But others have and it works fine. If you want it to perfection take it to a machine shop. There are also some oil channels put into the bar I have, I'll send you the email when I get home. It shouldn't cost more than 30 dollars to get it done.
So in this case I used permatex, red or black seem to work, this year I'm testing out a beer can gasket thats when you trace the gasket onto a can and use the can because its thinner, the idea is to tighten the area between the piston and squish band(top of the cylinder) to achieve more compression, basically more volatile combustion. The number you want is 20 thousands or a little less if you want on the small saws, put a soft piece of sodder through the spark plug hole once the cylinder is bolted down, use a wrench to turn it past the sodder and measure the sodder with your calipers. Make sure you take the cylinder off and clean once you reach your squish.
@@williamhansen1473 and the 2511t has a big squish area even with the gasket delete i wouldnt do much more than muffler mod gasket delete and a timing bump only remove about 25 thousands for the timing advance, you could pull the woodruff key and grind that, but i find just filing the flywheel itself works to, just dont take too much.
Good vídeo! the hole is drilled only on the external wall of the exaust? there seems to be an inner wall in the middle ... should i drill that wall of the exhaust too?
Nope you shouldn't have to. I'm not sure exactly where you put the hole but as long as you feel a good amount of exhuast comming out just leave it. Thanks for watching. 👊
Did you msg me on Instagram? And I mean if you know someone who did it and it's working good then go ahead , I just didn't want to tell you to do something and mess it up lol, Well I'm off to cut trees have a good day👊
@@PoplarMechanic I send you a photo on instagram because I don't know how to send it on youtube. The hole looks fantastic and the chainsaw runs amazing! Many thanks for your tuturial!
Right on Poplar!!! So far a successful mod. 👍 I can’t wait for your snow to melt so you can get back into some trees and rock that little thing. Congrats on breaking the 200 subs as well. 🤘👊
@@gregsrepair5623 awesome man I appreciate the exposure, Thanks for that. I also may have a faster solution to our little project. I'll phone you when I get some stuff figured out.
All you need know is the optional Palm debris cover that goes on the recoil I think it makes the chainsaw look bitchin not that you would really need it but it looks cool I think
My Dad started this company 20 years ago, I'm actually in the process of taking over, So on paper I will own 50 percent, But since its family Eventually it will be all mine. So to answer your question I own 50 percent of the company.
Nice work! I've got two hard seasons on my first 2511 and this season I hope to buy a second to modify! I love it so much I don't want to risk running without one! Can't wait to see yours in the wood. Be Well
Yes I will have it in the wood soon, i really want that chain though, You were right about the 3/8 50 chain, After some tests I found the chain did chatter and it bites too hard, The chain is on the way, I will make a video as soon as its here. Be safe brotha 👊
Panther 1/4 x 0.43 with matching chain with your porting. You're pretty switched on and on it Pop dude so I'll guess you've already sussed it.....but if you haven't.......you will shit Twinkies my friend
That is awesome about the company history and your future. I've been trying to get a company started for like the last 2 years. Ive been contract climbing for about 13 to 14 years now and i also climb full time for a company called The Tree Cowboys. Out of linden, mi.
Yeah but if you put the time, work, and money into the company the risk to reward is more then justifying in my mind. There will be headaches in anything you do in life as a job so if I have to deal with these headaches to have a company I'd be ok with that because all drama, headaches, and bullshit aside at the end of the day i know i absolutely love what i do for a living and wouldn't rather be doing anything else. I'm made for this and there are the really good work days i think to myself "Do I really get paid to do this for a living?"
Nice to see what the cylinder looks like! I just gave mine a good exhaust mod and it’s made it a different beast! I’d go for the ms150 quarter inch bar for yours, I think it’ll be better than the carving bar. Good work dude 😀
Yes, I will get that bar but at the time this one was available. Yes exhuast mod is a must imo. I'm just learning to port, We all have to start somewhere. Lol thanks for watching.
That’s great bud, it’ll be nice to watch how you progress. I’m new to it as well, I did my 460 and it made a real difference, I just don’t know why it did, lol. I did my 390xp and it didn’t make much difference, and I still don’t know why, haha! Keep us posted on anything you learn 👍
@@gerbutt I will do that. Its definitely not something you learn over night but more flow is usually better, Once you get into timing things get a bit more complicated, I did order a book from Amazon its supposed to be pretty good. Heres the link. www.amazon.ca/Two-Stroke-Performance-Tuning-Bell/dp/1859606199/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=2+stroke+performance&qid=1551615319&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Hello dude, I’ve pick up a bit of clutch squeal on mine now and then. If you have the chain cover off at some point would you mind just buzzing the clutch off and seeing if the washer behind it is flat on both sides or slightly concave on the side facing the saw?
Nice one dude 👍 Yeah I’ve watched a few vids and looked at exploded diagrams online but it just looks like a flat washer on them. Mine is slightly concave on the saw side, which does match the end of the crank, but it looks more like it’s worn like that than it’s meant to be like that - and that seems to be where the squealing is coming from 👍
*Coming up on having had this saw for a year....am a casual user and bought it to cut up sections for bowl blanks. Easy to start, **Bestfor.Garden** also recommend even after storage for a couple of months. Simple chain tension adjustment. Just cut up some 20" Osage Orange, including ripping bolts in half (at an angle). Like butter!*
*push the primer 6 times and let it rip I like the saw for the price👀 **allabout.wiki/Echo-CS** used maybe 10 tanks of fuel, 6 loads of hard wood and am very pleased with it. some will say its under powered for a 20" but I like it better then a 18". I have a 18" also which is great also just like the extra 2" inches. the saw is very light also which is nice. Huskavarna owns Echo so I am sure it will last. its not a sthl but still love it! I have seen some bad reviews on the saw but do not agree with them. some people told me not to waste my money but have since changed there mind. just have some common sense and cut some wood!*
Huskavarna (sic) owns Echo?
Well then who is Shindaiwa? Yamabiko?
Hi all the way from Suffolk England 😁very clear video!
And I can now see you realise its a carving bar. The problem with carving bars is that you need to run the chain a lot slacker due to no sprocket in the nose, which is dangerous in the trees.
I'm a full time arborist, and have just picked up 2 new Tes echoes. It's really important that people must be made aware if your changing drive sprockets to more teeth, Say 7 - 8 that you change or make sure your P. P. E protective trousers ect. Are able to cope with a faster saw, as the standard R. P. Ms will change. And won't do there job proply.
Safty first.
Thanks for a great video
Stay safe Gareth 👍
Hey thanks for the info, And ya I got a 14 inch stihl bar on it now. Just so you know I didnt seem to gain much from the timing advance. Muffler mods probably the easiest safest way to get a bit more out of it.
No offence Gareth but I've ran the now stock carving style bar that it comes supplied with on 1/4 pitch and not thrown a single chain and i've taken the piss with the little bugger. Yes a little blueing on the underside of the nose but its heat treated so not a problem. Go PANTHER 1/4 0.43 bar and chain though.......different league isn't it
@@stephentree3466 is the Panther bar/chain better than the 1/4 stock one which come with the saw?
@@thecdoggydog2328 it is a very good chain. Stays sharp reasonable. And they come without the extra saftey rakers. What isnt as good as aimed for are the bars, they are fast used up. Better take a tsumara bar or a Stihl carving bar. The stock chain is much fatter as the 1/4 panther chain. What else? The chains are somewhat likewise to a Stihl picco so... there are options to buy.
Just did my little echo base gasket and muffler mod, crazy how much they open up after.
Thank you
Hey no problem, that should help out alot, I'm pissed off I dropped mine and it hasn't been running right, But other than that very impressive for a small saw.
Man genius!!!😳😳😳
Subscribed my friend 🙏🏼
Keep up the great work!
Thanks, I subscribed to you as well. I used the echo all day today, Its starting to wake up, I'm still running 3/8 though waiting for my chain. 👊
Well done my man, you explained that to a Tee, I learn better with hands on but sometimes it get get a lil pricey best thing I learned is take you time .
That was a determinated start up !sounded good 🔊thanks4 vidéo
Yes it sounds good, I did do some test cuts the next day, It is pretty impressive for its size, 👊
Thnx bro for everything in this video. It was very helpful. I enjoyed really. Respect from Turkiye. Have a good times...
No problem man 👊
Awesome video liked seeing you showing off your mechanical side it seems like itll really rip once u break it in and turn up the high side cant wait for the first cuts with it good job
Thanks man, I hope once it breaks in a bit more I get the gains I was hoping for, I think the chain is a big factor for this little saw, I will get it in some wood soon. 👊
@@PoplarMechanic yea i know what youre saying cause my polesaw runs the quarter and it cuts pretty smooth compared to my old one that ran 3/8lp hopefully the 1/4 will make it a little ripper👍🏼
Man I'm being totally honest dude this video is badass I really enjoyed it I'm pretty excited I want to go buy one and do the same thing you did I wish you would have came out with your video before I bought mine it would have saved me a lot of money I've never disassembled a perfectly new chainsaw was it easy to remove the cylinder and put it back on ? And is the gasket delete you just Mount the cylinder to the saw with no gasket is that what that is?sorry for the dumb question . Does it seem to run with no problems without having the gasket on there?
Lol 😆 I don't know why but I was smiling the whole time watching your video keep us updated on the saw good job
Haha I'm glad your interested, your saw would be done at a much higher skill level than mine, you probably had the decking milled down so it can still run a gasket among other features that only years of experience could teach. This is just like how to get some extra power from your saw without a lot of experience or money. As far as the gasket goes, you just put some gasket sealer on it like yamabond. This just makes it so it doesnt leak air, You could also use a beer can gasket wich is a bit safer but not as tight.
And yes the echo is really easy the crank comes right out with the cylinder, in addition to that echos only run 1 ring instead of 2 like stihl, so that makes it easier to get the piston back in, Alot easier actually.
Woud you say the 14 in echo bar is worth the extra $. ....? I will using this saw for trail maintenance.
Yes the longer bar is nicer, it can pull it with ease, but it's up to you, may be nicer to have a bit more length for the bigger trail stuff.
I dont get it. Why not enlarge the holes on the mag coil and rotate that instead of weakening the keyway?
It doesnt weaken the key way, the shaft is tapered. Once you bolt it on you are good, But you could do it anyway you want I suppose. It's just the way I do it Thanks for watching.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 nice i make something similar with husqvarna T435 only change the bar it works really good with the stihl 12”bar 😁🤟
Looks good 👍
Thanks, I will have her in some wood soon 👊
Where did you order the sprocket for the 1/4 pitch?
I thought I answered this, If it shows up twice I'm lagging. Heres the website www.chainsawbars.co.uk
Did you not touch the transfer ports
No this was more of a test at this point in time, if I could do it again and I will at some point I would do the transfers, I'm going to put a wheel on it to get the timing eventually. The muffler mod helps this thing alot the timing advance isn't too noticeable.
That's still a pretty good gain in performance without doing any transfer port work
@@bethanyhaskiell9116 in my opinion for someone that isn't willing to do all the hard work of porting. I would say muffler mod and 1/4 set up yields the most performance gains. If your willing to clean up transfers to improve flow and put a degree wheel on it I'm sure there would be more gains to be had, I'm just learning about degree wheels and what affect raising and lowering ports can do. So one day I will put the wheel on the echo but right now im working on my 385xp. Hope that helps it's a strong little saw as is.
Do you do mods for only your chainsaws or do people send em to you to have you tune em up
I just do my own, I'm still learning so I wouldn't be confident taking on someone else's saws. Look up Sawgreater on youtube. Hes my buddy, I'm pretty sure hes taking them on.
How was the bar?
I haven't tried it yet, I've got a new stihl bar for it, I'll have a video hopefully soon, My garage is full right now because we had a flood. When I get it back in order I will make the video.
But you didn't port the actual cylinder at all
I did what I could, opened the exhuast and sanded the intake a bit, This was my first echo and this cylinder is tiny.
Nice build. A little tip: take the key out of the crank, and file it down to advance the timing. Leave the flywheel alone. Now you can just flip the key over if you want to go back, or get a new key. Easiest way to file the key is to put it in a pair of vice grips, secure that in a vice and use a flat file to take material off.
Ya great advice thank you, I figured that out shortly after. I guess people sell keys they have set up for the advance. Anyway the timing advance didnt seem to do much for this saw. Thanks for the information. 👌
@@PoplarMechanic If it is in fact an electronically limited ignition I am not surprised, they normally taper the advance back out of the curve at high RPMs as a means to limit max RPM which is where you would see the gains from advanced timing.
Why don’t the manufacturers build their saws with at least some of this stuff done, like the exhaust and muffler?
Wow, you got some precise mechanical skills man. Thats gonna save you some money one day, if it hasnt already! Great job man.
Thanks alot man, I dont feel I'm that good, But I am definitely learning, I like to see what I can get in there and do. Thanks for watching man. 👊
Enjoyed it man
Might be late but can you make a list of the item numbers for the chain, pitch bar and the sprocket for that chain setup?
Go into the description on Ebay here it shows the part numbers, And chain to use I got one of these bars a guy machines them. www.ebay.com/itm/BAR-ONLY-14-stihl-1-4-pitch-conversion-BAR-for-ECHO-CS2511t-355T-330T-360T/123759609814?epid=668130947&hash=item1cd0a5c7d6:g:jmoAAOSwgJ1cZ5tL
Can someone tell me what he means by how an eight tooth gives more speed and a gauge gives fiber cuts? I’m new to sawing but would like to learn how to mod an old chainsaw in order to get more life out of what seems to be a good chainsaw
The 43 gauge is a thinner bar from left to right when looking down on the saw from behind (it's also more narrow top to bottom near the tip, but that's irrelevant to your question). Therefore It runs a more narrow kerf, which is literally a finer, or thinner, cut. The ting to watch out for is that the bar being thinner means it has less strength to resist a bend. This is not a mod I would suggest for newer operators on larger saws or older saws unless you are using one with an Alaskan saw mill and want to reduce waste.
Very nice !!! BUT... for newbies, you should state the need and purpose of the muffler mod and the timing advance. Many thanks.
I will do that, I'm a bit of a newbie myself lol. Thanks for watching. 👊
Your supposed to grind the keyway, not the actual Flywheel.
True, but either works. Some don't have a key
I want to put 14in sthil light es bar on a brand-new echo 2511t will it fit if I do a 1/4 pitch sprocket conversion
No, it won't. You can do a modification to make it work. Get some good drill bits. The steel is hard af, lol. If you want, drop me your email, and I will send you bar pictures so you can modify it to work.
dude that thing kiks way to go great
Dude, that thing screams compared to stock. Great work. Great video.
Thanks man appreciate it, I was enjoying it until I dropped it from a tree. I got the cosmetic parts but it doesnt run quite right now could be an air leak. But either way I'll fix it and do an update.
@@PoplarMechanic ohoh man! Sorry to hear it dropped! 😬
👍
How do you like it now with the 1/4 pitch on it?, I just ordered the panther conversion kit for mine.
Hey sir! can you tell me what the squish should be? for 2511
Actually I can't remember the stock squish but 20 thousandths is where you want most saws, you can go a little tighter on the small ones if you have a lathe you can machine the base to 20 thow or you can just delete the gasket and call her good
I just feel comfortable modding the muffler. Do you think that will still make a difference?
Yes it will for sure. Muffler mods do alot you should be more than happy with that. These things sure run out of fuel fast hey?
Poplar Mechanic thanks for the response if we were closer i would pay you to give my saw a full mod. Very informative vidieos. Thanks.
@@darrengarlough5121 I appreciate that. I'm still learning though so I wouldn't feel comfortable taking money for it. The 200t sure turned out nice. The echo should be plenty good with the muffler mod, Not alot of room to work on the cylinder without proper equipment anyway. Good luck and remember to start with a small bit if you are using a drill the metal is really weak.
Outstanding brotha. She’s a real ripper! Love it.
👊
No problem. Hope they help. If your chattering your not cutting like you should be.
Exactly, I just ordered the dog and 2 bolts, so I will feature this in the first cuts video, it's funny I haven't seen many people run them.
@@PoplarMechanic literally the only person i seen have them are jack. At least echo once decided that they weren't putting dawgs on the 2511 they still put the threaded holes in the case to have the option to do so if wanted at least.
@@PoplarMechanic the video before the video I suggested you to watch that jack did after he did the port work he was having some extreme chatter which i know him and it wasn't his bad having the chain to aggressive or anything like that so i watched the video again and noticed the saw didn't have dawgs on it just like the 192t so then asked him if he thought a set would help with the chatter? He told me it didn't come with any but there is the holes to accept some. 1 to 2 days later he came out with the next video. Even someone like August seems to sometimes struggle cutting through bigger stuff with that saw ported as well and you can tell it's because he is trying to force the saw through the wood being there isn't dawgs to aid with this problem on his.
@@andrewream5279 yea I totally get what you mean, I will cover this on the next video. It is really helpful in larger pieces when you dont want the wood to run right into the saw causing it to stop the chain, You need the dogs to cut smooth and allow for a controlled amount of leverage. This is good stuff 👊
How much did u pay for the saw ...what am I saying ur probably the next MacGyver..
First results on the TH-cam search on modding a 2511. Thanks buddy, gave me some fun ideas to do to mine now.
Ya I wish I hade a lathe though, ill let you know how the 2511 turns out that Ian built for me.
stihl pole saw bar is what i put on mine.
Not a bad idea.
same for my 193t. turned a under powered saw into a ripper.
crazy that works. would you recommend this saw over any other saws that are similar?
@@jessejames1590 I just got the 150 tc so if you give me a chance to run it I'll let you know.
Good little saw! I have one and I like it a lot good video I subscribed to your channel 👍🏼✌️
Awesome man, happy holidays as well 👍
I do this to my ms660 an my ms661. My ms660 is going to get a pop up piston an machine the head down a few 1,000s. The ms661 will get a carb swap soon.
Ya I got a lathe on the way now man, getting sick of gasket gunk even though it does work, I should be able to make pop ups and machine bases wich is really nice, after I figure it out that is lol
I found the dogs on the ECHO are basically not functional so this boy is going to mod the dogs and add better spikes to the dogs,
Yes, they are pretty small. Should be easy enough to make some
A limited coil will stop sending spark over a specific rpm. It is an rpm limiting coil that wont allow the engine to over rev.
I dont think it could exceed that limit in the cut even with the mods. Well time will tell, still some testing to do.
Would of like to seen more on the installation of the 1/4 pitch sprocket. I have a cs-271t and purchased it for carving so I will be converting it to 1/4 as soon as I find out where to get one for a Echo, I have one for my Stihl which has a 12 in dime tip. Where did you get your 1/4 sprocket?
I got it from here. www.sawagain.com/1-4-pitch-8-tooth-clutch-drum-spur-sprocket-fits-echo-cs-2511t-new-oem/
Also the installation is very simple, just use a small impact and remember they are left hand threads, also make sure the plastic piece that the sprocket rests in to spin the oiler is correctly aligned.
I don't like the 0.043" gauge chain, stretches too much. Those carving bars are expensive, and you have to watch your cutters' toes and heels with tight radius tips. Sometimes you have to take a little off the back of each top plate too.
Well I do have another backup bar if I dont like the 43. I'm gonna test them both out. The carving bar would be cool But I'm starting to question the durability. Thanks for comments and watching 👊
Thanks for sharing, hope you keep up the tinkering (and the sharing!!!!), would love to test-out one of these lil 2511's (well, a 3511 really lol!!!) because - god I can feel the hate this is going to generate - because I just got this lil generic 'scheppach csp2540', a 25cc/10" top-handled, and out-of-box it doesn't have any of the spark arresters / muffler-port-blockage that all my other gear came standard with, once my tachometer arrives & I'm able to get baselines and safely mess with my H screw I plan to check the schematics of the muffler [thing came with amazingly thorough manual] to dog out the thing and remove the catalytic if there is one and otherwise just ensure that there's greater-than-or-equal amount of air-passage through that muffler as there is for the exhaust-outlet from the cylinder!
I say this because I've found all my name-brand gear to be 'choked' from the factory with restricted mufflers/spark arresters/etc and this scheppach seems to have avoided all that, it's as-if it got some of the modifications out of the way for me lol - at $145, *shipped*, my goal is to get at least 1 more unit so I can not only have a backup to swap-between when doing longer jobs but also have the confidence to really tinker- for someone like you who is doing these things professionally(or nearly-so), I can't help but think of how much fun you could have just dropping $145 or $290 so you could play around - I've already hit the Q of "how much power & heat can this safely take?" and am ordering an IR laser thermometer (hadn't considered this type of thing til, after merely removing the spark-arrester & its retention plate from my Husq 125B, the exhaust's output started melting the plastic body casing ;P )
Thanks again for sharing, these types of vids are awesome I hope you continue tinkering & sharing what you're learning!!!
Hey no problem man! I learn as I go, I have the echo running now, It had a bad coil believe it or not. So I will share once I put the mods back on again, have a good week man! 👊
Makes me want to advance the timing on my SRM266 trimmer now. Already bought a spare $10 muffler to gut and put on it so I don't destroy my good one if it doesn't work out. Not sure how I'm going to get that catalyst out of there but I will one way or another. Pretty sure that blue ignition module does have a rev limiter type deal. My SRM266 has the same looking blue module and it won't rev to the moon like my older Echos will with no load on it. I hate those rev limiters on small engines.
Ya I agree about the rev limiters, I will have a video about the saw soon I actually had a defect in the cylinder wich was not related to mods, there was a small pit just below the exhuast and I thought it may still work but it ended up letting pre detonated fuel/ and or air into exhuast port so when it got hot it didnt want to start again. So when I get the new cylinder I'm gonna play it safe and just do the gasket delete. I'm confident it will be fine, Its been a bit of a headache getting this sucker running the way I want. Thanks for watching. O and be careful with them cats, If it looks like a big honey comb I would leave it, They are a bear to get out and it's important to have back pressure, Not sure what the trimmer one looks like but if you have an extra may not hurt to look.
@@PoplarMechanic Yeah, the trimmers have the big round honeycomb, along with a super choked off 90 degree deflector. I have an older SRM2510 that has basically nothing inside of that muffler and you can even take it apart with a couple of screws. The 2510 is 1CC smaller than the 266 and has about double the power and throttle response, and that 266 isn't weak !
I've had issues with the rev limiters on Stihl 4 mix engines, stupid things won't start or run worth a hoot when it acts up.
Did you retune the carb after porting and advancing the timing? If so, can you tell how? Thanks.
Yes I did, But as long as it idles and runs good, I'm not going to do the final tuning until it breaks in, I did turn the high down a bit. And honestly there is alot of good videos if you need to tune a chainsaw from scratch. But I just do it by ear. I can tell if the high jet is too lean, And the low jet I base mostly off of throttle response. I will mention it in my next video when I test the cuts. There will more than likely be some tuning required. Thanks for watching .
The blue magneto means 13,000 rpm ignition cut
Ok I appreciate that. Wasn't sure when it cut out, But I've never had it govern out on me yet so 1300 should be more than enough. 👊
Should you adjust the carb? After doing those mods ?
Yes, when you open up the muffler your gonna want to fatten things up a bit because you will have more air flow.
Thank you for this video. I’d love some advice. I modified the muffler on my 2511 T, it immediately jump the power up. I’m an arborist and this saw is a perfect weight to power now. The only issue is I’ve had it into two different places to have it re-tuned. Specifically when I shut it down and then go to restart it a few seconds later It will not fire on any number of pulls. Then when I pull it with the throttle wide open it fires right up again. Do you have any idea what this is? I obviously did not adjust any of the timing or do any porting. I’m satisfied with how the saws power has been changed. But starting it this way especially in a tree is not optimum. Any advice is appreciated
So I've had this issue as well, the saw is a bit quirky I would say, fast idle works great to start it after its been shut off just flip the choke on then back off, and then you dont have to squeeze the throttle, Also I find aspen 2 works great for this saw, its a premix 2 stroke fuel and its all I run in it, I have a hunch the air filter has alot to do with the problem, im gonna try the mesh filter soon, hope that helps.
Poplar Mechanic great idea, I’ll try that tomorrow!
@7min -- LOVE that your conclusion, jug-in-hand, was basically that you saw most-potential in that exhaust-port's rear-end....I hate saying this but I wasn't going to port mine because I found out just how hard it is to get to the jug, you had to dissemble past the crankcase to get that thing in your hands...and I already knew guys were getting about 15% power ONLY from un-restricting the muffler's final exit-area, so I decided-against porting (I'm a small climber, power//weight is the end-all for me!) and figured I'd be able to beat 20% gains by doing the exhaust-port's rear half, and where it mates-up to the muffler (and, of course, the muffler's entryway where it's that choked 90deg turn), so glad to see someone else having done that :D I went further than you lol I went as far as the muff's mounting-holes allowed, and did a meticulous job of port-matching the TWO gaskets (not 3 ;D ) that were there... BTW Re those gaskets, for your open-can design it doesn't matter much, but for one like mine that's actually scavenging and getting back-pressure, sealing to the cylinder is VERY important, I tried to run it w/o that lil "soft, lead-type gasket" and it does NOT work, if you look at the 3rd mounting point on the left side you'll see it's all height-dependent, if you want that muff to meet the exhaust-flange dead-on true, you need to have both of those gaskets' thickness there....my "thin, lead-type" gasket did rip during initial opening-up of things, but thankfully it bent-back into place easily, adn - for porting it - I bolt/sandwich it in-between the thicker plate and the muff (or the exhaust flange) so that it gets port-matched w/o hurting or warping the delicate lil thing!
(obviously I am using a VERY meticulously "blocked-up, 100.000%"exhaust port when doing this on an assembled engine!!!)
That's what I get for getting excited & posting before finishing, around 9:30 you clearly DID get about as-much-as-possible at that area of the exhaust-flange, muff-gasket(soft, lead-type) and aluminum heat-shield, I could even see that you used a flat-file on your alum heat-shield to get it nice and perfectly true, I do that on all my gaskets and muffler-entryways to ensure proper mating, I wish there were a gasket-goop that could handle exhaust temps lol (oh and will fully acknowledge you seemed to "get" the idea that the soft, lead-type muff gasket, obviously needing to be trimmed to match, is best done by simply sandwiching it, this preserves its integrity while you grind it, also you do a good job describing it as no chokepoints or however you phrase it, I like to call it "over-matching", if it's something where I'm mounting-up a muffler and I'm port-matching the gasket, I'll leave the bolts loose, push the gasket one way, tighten them & port it -- then loosen the bolts, push the gasket the other way, and port the side that's now needing it....because things never line-up 100.00%, you either MUST over-match your porting here, or you're guaranteed to have some non-zero amount of restriction due to non-perfect mating of the ports!)
Oh no... 10:04....Seeing your new exit hole is adequate, and I know you got the entryway to the muff (and gaskets, and exhaust-flange), BUT that muffler has front & back halves, with a baffle-wall separating them, and there's a hole on the left-side of the baffle wall that allows the gas to get from rear to front....because your baffle hole is still OEM spec, your muff still has a choke-point in it :( You may be able to make a pair of tiny ~1/8" holes in the baffle-wall that you exposed with your new exit-hole, doing a MINOR opening of the baffle-wall there would aid the undersized OEM baffle-hole and overcome the problem, obviously if you did, say, two big 1/2" holes in teh baffle, it'd defeat the muffler and just be "open can" crap which, while allowing cool flow, is unnecessarily noisy, weak, fuel-inefficient and just a suboptimal way to run a powersaw! I'll have a video up on mine to show this baffle hole, will get it posted within a few hours because i've left comments elsewhere about this so I need to show what I mean, cannot find 1 image on GIS for this, if anyone's got a dissected/opened 2511t muffler JPG please share it!!
@@joescissorhands141 hey Joe, thanks for watching, this video is old now and its when the first 2511s came out, I just wanted to see if I can get small gains if any, it was basic mods to test out the saw, ive since learned quite a bit, I now have a lathe and am currently learning alot more about port work and timing. There is a cat inside the muffler, ive seen guys split em and take it right out then weld them up, Seems like alot of work. Now im running a 2511 that my buddy ported for me and it just rips, I didn't have a lathe at the time so I had him do it
Where did you purchase the 1/4 sprocket from .
www.sawagain.com/
Hell Yeah Brother!
Hello, I have cs 355t that keeps running even after setting button to stop. Any ideas of what's going on. One month old
Yes, You have a wire off on the switch. I dont have specific experience with the saw, But if you have to open the handle be carefull about the linkage. There may be a small screw to take off the switch. Hope that helps. 👊
Another possibility is- debris gets down inside the switch and will prevent it from making the contact for kill. Oh PM,don't sell yourself short,I just subscribed for a reason;👍!
@@plugger4945 👍
Really thorough and clear explanations. Good videos man. Hope all is well.
I got a video comming soon about it, there was an issue with the cylinder Right from factory but I got a new one comming. Thanks for tuning in. 👊
Nice video.im currently in the middle of modding my 2511t but was wondering if you retuned the carb after these mods
Yes you can bring the high jet down a little bit if the saw is new ( you should be able to tell if its screaming), If you have the limiter caps on you can still get some adjustment. If it runs and idles good dont touch the low jet, It is finicky on these saws atleast in my experience. But you cant really hurt it with the limiter caps on, I recommend leaving them on actually. Good luck 👊
@@PoplarMechanic thanks for your reply.its not new but will see how it runs on monday
ok I only feel comfortable drilling a hole in the muffler with my skill level. But my question is should I take the muffler off to do so? And will it still make a difference if I don't go any further inside with other mods?
The 100% proper way would be to take it off drill the hole and blow it out. But you could do it without just dont shoot compressed air into the hole or some may get into the cylinder. Just shake it out and let the engine blow it out. I have done it both ways and had success but do it at your own risk. And yes muffler mod helps any saw. Just dont go to big.
Poplar Mechanic OK thanks. Also do you remove the plastic liminaters to adjust or tweek the carb a bit?
@@darrengarlough5121 honestly I would just leave it alone if it runs good the echo carbs can be finicky. Turn the high jet down a bit if anything. That's all I would do.
How's it working for you? Ripping??
Its cutting good but I'm having some issues with it starting warm for some reason. I'm working on it though, I have a feeling it may be spark/ignition coil related.
What is the part number for the 8 tooth sprocket?
A556-0001710
Hey man I just picked up one of these saws and I love it. The chain is a little too aggressive though and I noticed you put a Stihl bar and a different chain on yours. Can your tell me which bar and chain you got so I can do the same?
Here is the bar part # 3005 008 3409
Here is the chain part # 3670 005 0072
1/4 sprocket part # A556-0001710
Also you will have to drill two holes for the bar to line up properly. Give me your email and I will send you pics of my bar to give you an idea where to drill.
@@PoplarMechanic thank you so much. It's browningsa@gmail.com. We're you worried about drilling holes into a brand new bar?
@@stevebrowning5081 well I didnt drill the holes I bought one from ebay wich is now unavailable. But others have and it works fine. If you want it to perfection take it to a machine shop. There are also some oil channels put into the bar I have, I'll send you the email when I get home. It shouldn't cost more than 30 dollars to get it done.
Can you explain the gasket delete and what you replaced with
So in this case I used permatex, red or black seem to work, this year I'm testing out a beer can gasket thats when you trace the gasket onto a can and use the can because its thinner, the idea is to tighten the area between the piston and squish band(top of the cylinder) to achieve more compression, basically more volatile combustion. The number you want is 20 thousands or a little less if you want on the small saws, put a soft piece of sodder through the spark plug hole once the cylinder is bolted down, use a wrench to turn it past the sodder and measure the sodder with your calipers. Make sure you take the cylinder off and clean once you reach your squish.
Ok
So aluminum plus permatex on both sides of aluminum ?
Will give it a go
@@williamhansen1473 no if you use the can you dont need any permatex
@@williamhansen1473 and the 2511t has a big squish area even with the gasket delete i wouldnt do much more than muffler mod gasket delete and a timing bump only remove about 25 thousands for the timing advance, you could pull the woodruff key and grind that, but i find just filing the flywheel itself works to, just dont take too much.
Dose that bar oil okay?
Yes it oils fine.
Great video brother!
Thanks brotha, My next video I will do some cutting , i hope my chain gets here soon.
Good vídeo! the hole is drilled only on the external wall of the exaust? there seems to be an inner wall in the middle ... should i drill that wall of the exhaust too?
Nope you shouldn't have to. I'm not sure exactly where you put the hole but as long as you feel a good amount of exhuast comming out just leave it. Thanks for watching. 👊
@@PoplarMechanic my father drilled both walls and looks like a completely new chainsaw...
@@saralagoamado5674 well if your getting good results then do it!
Did you msg me on Instagram? And I mean if you know someone who did it and it's working good then go ahead , I just didn't want to tell you to do something and mess it up lol, Well I'm off to cut trees have a good day👊
@@PoplarMechanic I send you a photo on instagram because I don't know how to send it on youtube. The hole looks fantastic and the chainsaw runs amazing! Many thanks for your tuturial!
Nice job!
Thanks buddy, It was sure a learning experience. 👊
Nice👍🏻! Always cool when we learn something
Right on Poplar!!! So far a successful mod. 👍 I can’t wait for your snow to melt so you can get back into some trees and rock that little thing. Congrats on breaking the 200 subs as well. 🤘👊
Thanks alot man, Hopefully It works like I want it to, I will get it into some wood soon 👊
Awesome video Dustin! Thank you
Haha thank you for the awesome saw.
@@PoplarMechanic facebook.com/gregsa1repair/posts/1222107337941531
@@gregsrepair5623 awesome man I appreciate the exposure, Thanks for that. I also may have a faster solution to our little project. I'll phone you when I get some stuff figured out.
All you need know is the optional Palm debris cover that goes on the recoil I think it makes the chainsaw look bitchin not that you would really need it but it looks cool I think
I'll have to check that out. Not many palms around here, we have alot of snow though lol.
@@PoplarMechanic lol yeah your right it looks cool though
I thought you were pulling my leg when you pointed the camera at the bench...I thought it was a kid's toy! Guess I'm used to my 355t
Lol it almost seems like a toy. Thanks for tuning in 👊
@@PoplarMechanic well I climb for a living, and I'm always looking for a lighter, more powerful option. Unless it's a 0200... Then I WANT IT.
So do you own your own company or contract climb. Just wondering. I like your video's and you seem like good people.
My Dad started this company 20 years ago, I'm actually in the process of taking over, So on paper I will own 50 percent, But since its family Eventually it will be all mine. So to answer your question I own 50 percent of the company.
Nice work! I've got two hard seasons on my first 2511 and this season I hope to buy a second to modify! I love it so much I don't want to risk running without one! Can't wait to see yours in the wood. Be Well
Yes I will have it in the wood soon, i really want that chain though, You were right about the 3/8 50 chain, After some tests I found the chain did chatter and it bites too hard, The chain is on the way, I will make a video as soon as its here. Be safe brotha 👊
Put a set of dawgs on it and that chatter will almost disappear depending how you file your stops also.
@@andrewream5279 I will have to look into that, Before i do that i will test the new chain and make another video.
Look up the video that Jack beelar did on the 2511. I think the video is labeled "the difference a dog makes".
@@andrewream5279 Thanks I will do that.
Panther 1/4 x 0.43 with matching chain with your porting. You're pretty switched on and on it Pop dude so I'll guess you've already sussed it.....but if you haven't.......you will shit Twinkies my friend
Ya I've seen those I want one, thanks for sharing my friend, I got a stihl bar for now.
That is awesome about the company history and your future. I've been trying to get a company started for like the last 2 years. Ive been contract climbing for about 13 to 14 years now and i also climb full time for a company called The Tree Cowboys. Out of linden, mi.
Awesome, well having your own company is awesome, you will get there, It has its headaches to though.
Yeah but if you put the time, work, and money into the company the risk to reward is more then justifying in my mind. There will be headaches in anything you do in life as a job so if I have to deal with these headaches to have a company I'd be ok with that because all drama, headaches, and bullshit aside at the end of the day i know i absolutely love what i do for a living and wouldn't rather be doing anything else. I'm made for this and there are the really good work days i think to myself "Do I really get paid to do this for a living?"
@@andrewream5279 I've been there, I love it to, Climbing and chainsaws are my favorite. 👊
Think that's a carving bar mate..
Ya it is. I got a different one now. But I wanted to test it out.
Nice to see what the cylinder looks like! I just gave mine a good exhaust mod and it’s made it a different beast! I’d go for the ms150 quarter inch bar for yours, I think it’ll be better than the carving bar. Good work dude 😀
Yes, I will get that bar but at the time this one was available. Yes exhuast mod is a must imo. I'm just learning to port, We all have to start somewhere. Lol thanks for watching.
That’s great bud, it’ll be nice to watch how you progress. I’m new to it as well, I did my 460 and it made a real difference, I just don’t know why it did, lol. I did my 390xp and it didn’t make much difference, and I still don’t know why, haha! Keep us posted on anything you learn 👍
@@gerbutt I will do that. Its definitely not something you learn over night but more flow is usually better, Once you get into timing things get a bit more complicated, I did order a book from Amazon its supposed to be pretty good. Heres the link. www.amazon.ca/Two-Stroke-Performance-Tuning-Bell/dp/1859606199/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=2+stroke+performance&qid=1551615319&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Hello dude, I’ve pick up a bit of clutch squeal on mine now and then. If you have the chain cover off at some point would you mind just buzzing the clutch off and seeing if the washer behind it is flat on both sides or slightly concave on the side facing the saw?
Yes I will do that when I get around to it, If you have the manual it may let you know in there. I cant remember off hand.
m.th-cam.com/video/X-qKUtG5GHk/w-d-xo.html
Watch this video on your computer I believe it shows wich way it goes if you watch closely.
Nice one dude 👍 Yeah I’ve watched a few vids and looked at exploded diagrams online but it just looks like a flat washer on them. Mine is slightly concave on the saw side, which does match the end of the crank, but it looks more like it’s worn like that than it’s meant to be like that - and that seems to be where the squealing is coming from 👍
@@gerbutt ok well I'm pretty sure mine wasn't flat, I'll double check when I can.
Poplar Mechanic cheers buddy 👍