The bell crank: there are a few versions of the swivel housing. One that has only a drain on the Port side, one that has the port drain and 2 drains on the SB side, another that has all that plus a grease nipple for the shift bell crank. In some models the bell crank is hollow and has 2 grooves, one for the o-ring, the other has a hole for grease. The other model is a solid bell crank with only the o-ring groove and the grease nipple only greases the tail of the bell crank. When you install the bell crank, add grease to the o-ring area, and to the tail, it will help to prevent water coming into that cavity. OMC triple guard grease is what the book calls for. For winterization the port drain is obvious, it is where the water pipe runs. The SB side’s bottom drain is very important. If that o-ring on the bell crank leaked, that is where water will be, in a cavity that has an open path to the bellows, drive shaft bearing and gimbal bearing. If you don’t have this drain, I suggest you make one. If it has water (like mine did), and it freezes it might crack your drive. Or you find water in the bellows and think those have cracked, while a little o-ring is the culprit. As one other person said: the nut on the top of the cable needs to be tightened against the cable, not against the trunnion. My drive is a ‘89 model, and it does have the little nut on the bottom of the cable.
2K sounds about right! I have other videos that might interest you too. Do a search under my name and I've got just about everything documented. Have a good one!
Michael thank you trying to explain what can be very frustrating and discouraging to Cobra owners. I applaud your efforts,at least you bought the special tools for the job. The most important tool missing?? The correct service manual for the model being serviced. There is a 3 digit code such as PWC,RGD etc. on the model code tag. Usually found on valve cover. Many updates are model specific and must be followed to the letter and must be done. To all the trolls who are so ready to jump on people,provide the info needed to correct what’s in error just don’t rip on him. A manual is needed that’s all. Cobras were pretty decent units after all updates were done and I’ve seen plenty of incorrect work come from marine shops trying to set up adjustments like a Mercruiser! Thank you again Michael. An OMC Stern Drive factory trained tech 1980 (stringers)and Cobra Master tech 1988.
Awesome videos brotha. After watching these a couple times I worked up the courage to tackle the lower shift cable myself. I'm glad I did. Boat shifts amazing now. The cable replacement is exactly what my boat needed. I couldn't have done it without your videos. Thanks a ton!
I cannot thank u enough for posting this,,,was having trouble with mine and was not confident about changing it until I saw this video... awesome help....
I love this video. It will help me as I do this job. Thank you for your help! I'm trying to document in one place these issues from others' comments. You can click on the times in my comment to go to that part of the video. 1:30 - OMC says this about the Collard Retainer Nut: "Perform the transom bracket shift cable adjustment. Use only the 914017 alignment plate to hold the bellcrank at the 90 degree position. Always use the new 915271-M tool to hold the 7 9/16" dimension. "PW" (1990) and newer models may have a collared retainer nut on the aft end of the shift cable core wire, leave it off!" But now at 1:20 I don't know how far to screw on the retainer. I think you're supposed to screw it on so that about 1/4 to 3/8" protrudes, about even with top of the bolt. So about where it would be if the nut were on it. Looking for the proof. 4:00 - the o-ring is the seal. It needs to rotate and shouldn't have gasket material in it. It should be lubricated. 14:30 and 15:35 - nut should be tightened against the rear, against the tube, rather than against the holder. Is this true? I'm only 50% sure. 15:21 - cotter pin needs a washer behind it. I imagine mine will have one when I take it off and I will put it back on. The kits that I see on eBay for around $60 have all of the parts and the O-rings and the calibration tools. It looks like I can do it for $60 or I can pay someone $2000 to do it.
Anxiously awaiting part 3. Recently found your channel and love all the videos. Currently restoring a 1992 Seaswirl 220, 5.0 Ford 302, with the OMC outdrive. Having tons of trouble setting up the remote controls after replacing worn cables. Keep the videos coming, thanks!
Allen Thanks for your comments! I'm rebuilding another unit at the moment, but I'll have the final videos up by the end of week. I have a bunch more videos to post too. Thanks again!
Awesome awesome video!! I have an 88 Bayliner with omc cobra outdrive and broke my cable. I'm half way into replacing it now! This video is on point though. Thank you!!!
Hey mike hope all is well… I have reached out to you multiple times and you always give the best advise and I really appreciate everything considering the boat mechanic says he will not work on OMC cobras. Anyways I have been dealing with my pesky shift problems since I picked up the boat a few summers ago I hear these particular motors have these issues so I have to do my best. My issues is I can never find tune my shift cable to work properly there’s always about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch play which doesn’t allow for me to ever go into neutral from either forward or reverse . The bell crank assembly is solid no play what’s so ever but tighten perfectly. I cannot get rid of the play I don’t know if thats normal . I have masters the art of attempting to place shifter in nuetral (from either foward or reverse )then I’ll have to kill the ignition pull back or push foward (depending on which direction I’m going) about a 1/2 in to 3/4 inch ,pop shifter back into neutral then turn the ignition back on . That will successfully get me into nuetral . I have gotten used to this but I want to fix the issue. And I have used the shift allotment tools . Any help
Great video! Changed cable easy lined it up with tool. When I put it in reverse it goes in gear and I can’t turn the prop. All good. But when I put it in forward gear it doesn’t fully engage and I can still spin the prop with my hands. If I start it on the trailer and try to put it in to forward gear it sounds like it trying to go into gear but it doesn’t I checked the bell crank and the cable is pulling it all the way back and it can’t come up anymore.
Hi Michael, I could not do this without you, thanks again! I replaced shift cable last year and then adjusted best I could. When shifting fwd/N/Rev, seems to work good however when powering up (trying to get on a plane, engine heavy loaded) there is a very large clunk and corresponding boat shudder. (Single clunk -> feels like a neutral drop with a car) I suspect that this is due to an improper shift cable adjustment, so I will be draining oil, looking for metal and hopefully just readjusting using 'The Hastings' method. Could you please comment on this based on your experience? At this point should I just readjust (assuming not a lot of metal filings) and try again or should I be looking deeper into the dog clutch etc?-> I'm in uncharted territory, happy to do the work and would prefer to get it right the second time arround. Comments appreciated. Loud clunking will cost me a little now......or a lot later!
You will need a helper. Disconnect the shift cable while in the water and manually move the cable into gear. If you have to hold the cable by hand to keep it in gear, there is an adjustment issue in the stern drive. You ought to be able to move through all gears with the end of the cable in your hand.
Daar Michael, thanks a lot for these Very clear instructions. Do you perhaps have a video on the fuel injectors? I learned that 2 out of 8 cilinders of my OMC Cobra 5.0 EFI engine are not functioning and it might be the potentionally clogged injectors I was gold. Its not the sprak plugs or its cables, that had been ruled out already. I’d like to see whether I van clean or replace them myself. Much appeciated.
Very good video, easy to follow --- well done. I am looking at 4WINNS with OMC Cobra and 5.7 MerCruiser and found this video most informative and allows easy understanding of how the shift cable works and the importance to proper alignment. With all the horror stories of alignment leading to clutch gear failure, I feel much more comfortable about this potential purchase.
Do I still have to pull the stern apart if the shift cable sleeve pulled off by the engine? Could I just buy the adjust kit. Push/pull cable with pliers till I feel it fall into neutral and then use the alignment tool just on the engine end of cable or do I have to take stern drive off to put that other alignment tool on. FYI You are a God sent. I cant tell you how helpful and greatly detailed your videos are!
Chris, Thanks for your comments.! I got you covered. Before, I get into this, are you talking about part #104 from this link? www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/56078.cfm?mdl=VI9RCP
@@michaelromer2016 No I'm not talking about that end of the cable I'm talking about the other end of the shift cable that's up by bracket with the W Piece. That piece pulled out of the sleeve so Before I attach it back to the sleeve do I grab it would pliers and pull the cable into where would be sitting for neutral. Then slide the sleeve is far on to the cable as it will go then tight down those picture bolts on the end. After that can I use the alignment told to get it accurate again out half and to take the Stern drive off
I did order a cable just in case if I needed it but I'm thinking I should just do It and replace the cable anyway I just don't have any help. I'm a one man show here
I didnt read all the comments so maybe this has been mentioned, but there is a procedure in the video that is INCORRECT. near the end of the vid where the lock nut is being tightened against the trunnion anchor.. it SHOULDNT BE!!! aftersliding the threaded housing tube over the core and screwing it into the end of the cable, and BEFORE adjusting the trunnion, the lock nut should be locking the housing tube into the cable end to hold it securely so it doesnt allow movement that may wear out the threads inside the cable end. the brass (or delrin) trunnion that anchors the cable housing in place should always be free to swivel on the threads of the stainless steel housing tube. this will insure everything stays securely in alignment and never wears out which would cause binding of the core wire... if the threads on the trunnion should ever wear out due to the stainless steel housing tube moving slightly within it, its a very much cheaper and quicker repair than another entire cable replacement and procedure.... DONT tighten the lock nut to the wrong piece!!! ADDITIONALLY, the lock nut at the lower end of the cable that has been screwed on after the retainer, needs to be discarded. the updated bulletins indicate that having the end of the core locked in place can cause binding and WILL cause unnecessary wear of the cable core if it cant rotate slightly as required during its travel back and forth....
I checked out some of my new videos and apparently I already fixed the first part you mentioned. I think this was one my first videos. As for the last part, I'm a sucker for using the old methodology, and I can't say I've kept up with all the bulletins. You definitely made a passionate comment with use of CAPS.
the caps was used to highlight the importance of the issues for those that may not know why they are having problems... if a person deviates from the latest TSB information, they wont have much better luck than what they had before working on it.. it was not, in any way meant to be a slam to the article, as its a relatively well produced informative video...
On the outdrive, specifically behind the prop, there are two seals. One is around the prop driveshaft, and the other I can see four bolts (I think) holding it (driveshaft) in. Do I have to remove the lower to change that inner seal? I noticed some oil leaking from behind the prop, it’s not coming from the first seal, it appears to be coming from the back seal. Thanks again for all your great videos!
Andy E There are two prop seals (in most cases) near the prop. There is one where you mentioned that is leaking. Sadly the prop bearing housing assembly has to be removed or you will have water inside over time. I have a video on removing it with chains posted. Plus all those bolts you mentioned. Lower unit doesn't need to be removed.
Michael Romer I thought that’s what you were pulling out. I’m going to have to get it replaced soon. I just got the ESA bracket and cables all adjusted today. It runs smooth and shifts great now. I want to get it on the water to make sure it’s all good before tearing the seals out of the lower unit. Again, thank you for the great info and responses!
Not sure if u will read this but here goes, had a marina replace the bellows on my lower unit of my 5.7 mercruiser, since I got it back it doesn’t want to shift out of forward or reverse while engine is running, but when engine is off, shifts no problem, any ideas, lower unit issue or shifter cable problem?
Hi Michael I was watching your parts 2 of the OMC Cobra cable.Is there a part 1.I have water coming through the hose that the shift cable runs through.Is there a video on how to solve this problem.Let me know thanks, Your video so far is very helpful.
I bought a boat in Cleveland and brought it home . They said they put a new shift cable on for Ford and reverse one from the handle to the motor went from the motor to the drive. Neither one work how do I fix that? And is there an exhaust flapper that goes on these things because we had to pull the motor and put into water jackets, not water jackets freeze plugs in the back of the four-cylinder and there wasn’t one in there but there was just a rod in my buddy says that in the cobra you don’t need to replace them but is this true? Please let me know.
awesome vid! my omc cobra doesn't have that little nut at bottom of the Retainer with the 2 holes.. not sure why. what is a good set point for the back shift shoe? Just all the way back?
How would you assemble the outboard back together again when it trying to change the shift cable? Please help me to fix my boat. I opened the outboard engine and now can’t put it back together.
How are you suppose to put gasket sealer on a rotating assembly with out it freezing up the part from moving. But your vids helped me get back in the warer
The o rings ought to remain stationary in the gimbal bearing. If it was a rotating surface he would need a bearing on top of the gimbal bearing which isn’t the case they just use an O-ring.
Can I get your opinion on my boat please?? My boat is stuck in reverse. The dropped the lower unit down and the prop wasn’t stuck anymore until I put it back
One of the better videos I've seen mechanically detailed and quality. thanks. My grease zerk tube filler(upper right side). desinagrated (sp) any way fix?
The tube actually comes out really easy and can be replaced from the outside. Do you know if part of the tube broke off inside the gimbal housing assembly? $25 www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/56127.cfm?mdl=TMV29H
Michael Romer. Thanks much, yes , Right behind the outside zerk threads it broke. The tube is approximately 5 inches long. in a tight space. Cobra stern drive, inboard outboard. 5.7 engine.
Thank you, thank you, thank you... Yes, must have engine bracket/interrupter adjustment please... Can you please tell us the measurement distance on that adjustment tool (center to center).?
Hi MIchael! At 1:45 of this video I have a question about the 5/16 brass nut that goes on the end of the cable. I just pulled my outdrive in prep for changing the shift cable, and noticed my drive does not have this nut. Is this normal? Looked at the parts diagram at Crowley and they show no nut for my rig / 502APRJVB/Ford 5.0. Thanks!
Ned Stroller I’ve heard other users mention the same thing. In theory it’s just for extra protection. Likely for vibration. The people who mentioned not having one don’t go back and add it.
@@michaelromer2016 REALLY appreciate your videos!!!! I am tackling an 87 SeaRay that is new to me. Tons of work, replaced the engine coupler, gimbal bearing, bellows, ignition refresh, starter (marine grade)..... After watching this I understand the geometry of the alignment and bought the tools. Questions for you: 1) I also don't have the retainer locking nut - can I use a nylon nut? Would like the security:) 2) You state putting the retainer about 1/2 way on the threads.... should I start there and then check the travel at the bracket end before calling it good?
I have 88 bayliner 5.0 with a omc cobra out drive. Was wondering where I can buy a shift cable and I will I know if it’s the right cable I am buying .. thanks
I have the same boat (88 bayliner, 5.0L w omc cobra out drive). Does anyone know what shift cable I should use? Part number? I don't have the original anymore :(
Is the first adjustment tool that fits in the 2 bolt holes used to keep it in place so you can adjust it on the the engine side? or is the first adjustment tool used for something else?
joe ortega The first tool is designed to hold the cable where neutral would be on the cable. It's also designed to hold the cable in a fixed position while you tighten the engine side to the engine shift bracket. Without that tool, you will have to make drastic adjustments on the engine bracket. The tools are dirt cheap. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152203518503
Any recommendations I have 1989 5.7L OMC Cobra. When it runs for couple of minutes it shots up and hard to start I noticed no spark on the coil and replaced the but no start. If I let cool it then crank right up.
Hey Michael, Thanks again for the video. I was adjusting my shift cable yesterday and noticed in the shop manual that they highly focused on the distance between the center of the shift pin hole to the edge of the brass cable fitting to be at 7 9/16 inches. Shouldn't we worry more about that length rather than the position of the shift cable trunnion (brass cylinder looking thing)? I bought the tools to do it but I came to a pause because I got a little confused. Once again, thanks for all the videos. I've pretty much watched all of them 5 times of more..haha
Great question. The answer to you question is here: th-cam.com/video/whGSfsGHEao/w-d-xo.html Long story short, there are 5 videos worth of explanations to be exact.
Hello Michael, RE: 1992/93 OMC COBRA. I replaced the lower shift cable and have followed all the guides and based on the way it sounds, when I shift into forward, I can hear something that sounds like gears clunking as if the gears are not fully meshed/engaged. Reverse works fine. (this is a dry test, I will immerse after I get a response from you) My question. With the condition I have described could you tell me which way to adjust what trunnion? I can fiddle and fiddle but I was wondering if you could point me towards the most likely place to start? Help me Obi Wan- I don't want to pay a marine mechanic to do something I can.
Could you contact me please. Do u want my cell number or email I’m sure ur busy I just wanna know how to adjust the other cable from the motor to the throttle on the side of the boat
One is a bell crank tool, the other is the shift cable alignment. I recommend buying both, they need to be rigid tools so I wouldn't recommend making one at home. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set?variant=3737795589
Thanks for the great video. On that shift lever set screw, is that a new screw that the service manual demands, or did you reuse your old one? Did you not need a threadlocker to keep it in place?
If it was adjusted properly at some point yes. You will still need the shift alignment tool though. You could in theory just measure it, but I'm encouraging people these days to buy the alignment tools. The tool will set the shift linkage perfectly to 7 - 9/16. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set?variant=3737795589 What you will do is put the stern drive in neutral. Confirm the prop free spins in the back. Then disconnect the shift linkage from the shift bracket. Use the longer of the two from the kit and set your shift length. Watch my ESA videos too as they help clarify this even better. It's a 5 part series.
Michael Romer adjusted the cable with the correct tool and at first it was shifting fine. But then it would not get any reverse even when I took the lower cable off and shifted it by hand all we can get is a clicking sound like it’s trying to get reverse
Oh so you have the shift cable off the engine bracket and you are manually moving the cable. If you can't get it into reverse by manually moving the cable by hand, the stern drive must be removed. Your shift height is wrong. It needs to be adjusted. I show how-to do that in part two of my ESA series.
Don't take a chance trying to measure it by hand. You can get close that way but it's best to get the tools. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set?variant=3737795589
Hi Michael. Thanks for the great videos. Would you happen to have the part number for the brass 5/16" nut for the lower shift cable? When I pulled my outdrive off i found that i did not have one on my assembly. Thanks!
Michael Romer See my comment with the wording from the OMC technical bulletin. They added that nut in 1990 and in 1996 they suggested that it not be reinstalled. If someone does not have that nut I bet it is from a pre-1990 Model.
No video yet (as of 5/9/2018) I'm rebuilding another unit at the moment. Should have that done and then hopefully by this Sunday, I can make the bracket video.
I see a discrepancy in your video.The last known OMC service bulletin (along with Stewart Hastings) calls for the retainer to be threaded all the way in until it stops at the end of the cable threads. You can back off less than one turn to allow it to line up with the shift guide bolt hole. The retainer nut is not to be used and simply discarded. Other than that.... good video.
Classic example of the cable being out of specifications-basically it is stretched or corroded. When you have the stern drive out, you will also have the opportunity to grease various surfaces and check the shifter height.
So my omc. If it’s in neutral I can shift into either gear perfectly fine. If I try to go from reverse to nuetral or forward to nuetral it is very hard. Have to really force it back to nuetral. Is this the cause of that? If not what might it be? Thank you in advance
Thank you, I for one absolutely appreciate your videos!! I have spent countless hours searching and watching videos and always come back to your videos. Like everything in life things change or we make basic mistakes and for those of you who feel the need criticize this gentlemen after watching his efforts there is something called constructive criticism in which you actually add something beneficial for those of us looking for guidance, and then theirs something called just being a "Jack A$$" Keep up the great work Mr. Romer! Now for my question! for clarification purposes the 5/16" nut on the out-drive side of the shift cable is 'No longer used" correct? and the lock nut on the motor end of shift cable locks down the shift cable at the end of cable housing sheathing? correct?
John thanks for your comments! The 5/16 is used because after about 5 years and really bad luck, the cable could turn around inside the sheath. It's unlikely but, I'd still use it. Think of it like insurance. And yes, the other end locks down the other side as well.
Thanks for the info and I apoligize to you and your followers for my reply, but if I took everything I watched on TH-cam as gospel... oh boy id be in big trouble so I always refer to multiple sources to compare notes. As for my question, unfortunately the only reason I asked this is because I could not find my 5/16 nut during the reinstall anywhere? and after watching this video several times over and several hours of searching my shop(misc. bolts drawer, under the boat, engine compartment, Garbage, I even removed seats!!) I went to Crowley Marine catalog to order the part and its not listed there? www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/55333.cfm?mdl=VZOG47 (see parts 22,98,99 no 5/16" nut) I started reading the comments section here and came across Mr Pateys post regarding this (good example of constructive criticism) and the light came on and I realized that this cable had been replaced by previous owner and they must have known about the service bulletin. so my actual question should be do I need to get one if I do not have one now? Thanks John
John, the 1987 version for some reason didn't include the 5/16 nut, however if you check later versions, for example, 1991. You can actually find the nut that you're looking for, it was likely added as an insurance policy-- anyways it's about $6 here's the link www.crowleymarine.com/parts/11575.cfm
this is flat out kicking my butt! im so invested in this project now there is no way I want to take it to a shop now!!I followed instructions. the manual and crowley Marine instructions! I was so sure I had it right but wont go into Fwd? a few things were different than your video, My shift rod is the basic screw in and out version and I adjusted it off the same locations as you did which is the same as the manual so hopefully the measuring points are the same? but it was a good 1/2" of difference from the prior position. I did purchase the correct tools including alignment tool. Im going to adjust the bracket right now but Im wondering if I could get of an adjustment out of that or if I should just pull the out drive back off? could I have missed the shift rod aligning with the bell crank when I installed the outdrive? if i did would I even be able to get it into reverse? I also ha
I'm replacing my shift cable now on OMC 5.0l and after I set the alignment tool on the outdrive to keep in neutral it doesn't line up on the engine side. It's like I'm running out of threads to move the trunnion and cant match it up.
Johnny I ended up aligning the outdrive and installing it back on the transom then I went to the engine and pushed all cable slack back in which engages into gear and it gives u just enough to get 6.5 inches from trunnion to center hole and that ended up working. Good luck
Michael my boat go forward but out reverse, when I making adjustments to the engine bracket It go reverse but not forward or lost of power going forward. I have a extra cobra out-drive and that dose the same thing. Is this the shift cable or I am not making the right adjustments to engine bracket? I played with it for several hours. I am interested in how to make the right adjustments on engine bracket video. I am interested in your opinion, can you please help thank you Robert.
Robert, I have an entire series of videos dedicated to this issue you are having. Please review these videos and let me know if you continue to have issues. Keep in mind this is a 5 part video series. th-cam.com/video/whGSfsGHEao/w-d-xo.html
Can anybody help i have 7.4 yamaha outdrive shift into reverse but wont shift into foward foward cable kind tight but does move help be apreciated any ideas.
So that model is similar in design to the OMC cobra/Volvo out drives. I have an ESA series that goes over how-to fix issues like you mentioned in your comments. Look for the 5 part video series, as they will help.
sweet, just bought a boat at a yard sale, precious owner said it would not shift into reverse, from everything ive seen looks like bad cable, boat and trailer and wakeboard rack only $100, thanks
@@michaelromer2016 Update, THE only thing wring with the boat was the fuel pickup tube from the tank, it had disconected in the tank and was sucking air, installed a new tube and now runs great, shifts and all no problem
I don't know where you got your training but you made 3 major mistakes that I saw. 1 you never put sealer of any kind on an "O" ring or a moving shaft because you will lock it in place-- 2 the brass nut is for locking the threaded tube to the top of the cable housing 3-- and always use a flat washer next to a cotter pin so you don't rub threw it and brake it. This is basic mechanics 101. ROOKIE
This video is totally incorrect. This guy doesn't have a clue what he is doing but acts like he does. That cobra would never shift correctly set up like that. He set the jig up all wrong and the nut he wasn't sure what to do with is used to position the jig.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
The bell crank: there are a few versions of the swivel housing. One that has only a drain on the Port side, one that has the port drain and 2 drains on the SB side, another that has all that plus a grease nipple for the shift bell crank. In some models the bell crank is hollow and has 2 grooves, one for the o-ring, the other has a hole for grease. The other model is a solid bell crank with only the o-ring groove and the grease nipple only greases the tail of the bell crank. When you install the bell crank, add grease to the o-ring area, and to the tail, it will help to prevent water coming into that cavity. OMC triple guard grease is what the book calls for.
For winterization the port drain is obvious, it is where the water pipe runs. The SB side’s bottom drain is very important. If that o-ring on the bell crank leaked, that is where water will be, in a cavity that has an open path to the bellows, drive shaft bearing and gimbal bearing. If you don’t have this drain, I suggest you make one. If it has water (like mine did), and it freezes it might crack your drive. Or you find water in the bellows and think those have cracked, while a little o-ring is the culprit.
As one other person said: the nut on the top of the cable needs to be tightened against the cable, not against the trunnion.
My drive is a ‘89 model, and it does have the little nut on the bottom of the cable.
Very important comment thank you.
Local or mechanic was going to charge $2000 for this repair. Due to your video I will be taking it on this winter! Thank you so much for posting
2K sounds about right! I have other videos that might interest you too. Do a search under my name and I've got just about everything documented. Have a good one!
Michael thank you trying to explain what can be very frustrating and discouraging to Cobra owners. I applaud your efforts,at least you bought the special tools for the job. The most important tool missing?? The correct service manual for the model being serviced. There is a 3 digit code such as PWC,RGD etc. on the model code tag. Usually found on valve cover. Many updates are model specific and must be followed to the letter and must be done. To all the trolls who are so ready to jump on people,provide the info needed to correct what’s in error just don’t rip on him. A manual is needed that’s all. Cobras were pretty decent units after all updates were done and I’ve seen plenty of incorrect work come from marine shops trying to set up adjustments like a Mercruiser! Thank you again Michael.
An OMC Stern Drive factory trained tech 1980 (stringers)and Cobra Master tech 1988.
Thanks for your comments. Out of the thousands of comments I have read, yours means the most to me. Thanks so much!
Awesome videos brotha. After watching these a couple times I worked up the courage to tackle the lower shift cable myself. I'm glad I did. Boat shifts amazing now. The cable replacement is exactly what my boat needed. I couldn't have done it without your videos. Thanks a ton!
Perfect! Thanks for your comments. Stay tuned for great videos.
I cannot thank u enough for posting this,,,was having trouble with mine and was not confident about changing it until I saw this video... awesome help....
Glad to hear you liked it. Don't forget to subscribe! I got tons of new videos coming out too!
I love this video. It will help me as I do this job. Thank you for your help!
I'm trying to document in one place these issues from others' comments. You can click on the times in my comment to go to that part of the video.
1:30 - OMC says this about the Collard Retainer Nut:
"Perform the transom bracket shift cable adjustment. Use only the 914017 alignment plate to hold the bellcrank at the 90 degree position. Always use the new 915271-M tool to hold the 7 9/16" dimension. "PW" (1990) and newer models may have a collared retainer nut on the aft end of the shift cable core wire, leave it off!" But now at 1:20 I don't know how far to screw on the retainer. I think you're supposed to screw it on so that about 1/4 to 3/8" protrudes, about even with top of the bolt. So about where it would be if the nut were on it. Looking for the proof.
4:00 - the o-ring is the seal. It needs to rotate and shouldn't have gasket material in it. It should be lubricated.
14:30 and 15:35 - nut should be tightened against the rear, against the tube, rather than against the holder. Is this true? I'm only 50% sure.
15:21 - cotter pin needs a washer behind it. I imagine mine will have one when I take it off and I will put it back on.
The kits that I see on eBay for around $60 have all of the parts and the O-rings and the calibration tools. It looks like I can do it for $60 or I can pay someone $2000 to do it.
Great comments!
Anxiously awaiting part 3. Recently found your channel and love all the videos. Currently restoring a 1992 Seaswirl 220, 5.0 Ford 302, with the OMC outdrive. Having tons of trouble setting up the remote controls after replacing worn cables. Keep the videos coming, thanks!
Allen Thanks for your comments! I'm rebuilding another unit at the moment, but I'll have the final videos up by the end of week. I have a bunch more videos to post too. Thanks again!
Dude, amazing video, I just followed it to rebuild the entire transom assembly. Good work
Awesome awesome video!! I have an 88 Bayliner with omc cobra outdrive and broke my cable. I'm half way into replacing it now! This video is on point though. Thank you!!!
Thanks! I got more coming up. Have a good day!
Hey mike hope all is well… I have reached out to you multiple times and you always give the best advise and I really appreciate everything considering the boat mechanic says he will not work on OMC cobras. Anyways I have been dealing with my pesky shift problems since I picked up the boat a few summers ago I hear these particular motors have these issues so I have to do my best. My issues is I can never find tune my shift cable to work properly there’s always about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch play which doesn’t allow for me to ever go into neutral from either forward or reverse . The bell crank assembly is solid no play what’s so ever but tighten perfectly. I cannot get rid of the play I don’t know if thats normal . I have masters the art of attempting to place shifter in nuetral (from either foward or reverse )then I’ll have to kill the ignition pull back or push foward (depending on which direction I’m going) about a 1/2 in to 3/4 inch ,pop shifter back into neutral then turn the ignition back on . That will successfully get me into nuetral . I have gotten used to this but I want to fix the issue. And I have used the shift allotment tools . Any help
Great video! Changed cable easy lined it up with tool. When I put it in reverse it goes in gear and I can’t turn the prop. All good. But when I put it in forward gear it doesn’t fully engage and I can still spin the prop with my hands. If I start it on the trailer and try to put it in to forward gear it sounds like it trying to go into gear but it doesn’t I checked the bell crank and the cable is pulling it all the way back and it can’t come up anymore.
Hi Michael, I could not do this without you, thanks again! I replaced shift cable last year and then adjusted best I could. When shifting fwd/N/Rev, seems to work good however when powering up (trying to get on a plane, engine heavy loaded) there is a very large clunk and corresponding boat shudder. (Single clunk -> feels like a neutral drop with a car) I suspect that this is due to an improper shift cable adjustment, so I will be draining oil, looking for metal and hopefully just readjusting using 'The Hastings' method. Could you please comment on this based on your experience? At this point should I just readjust (assuming not a lot of metal filings) and try again or should I be looking deeper into the dog clutch etc?-> I'm in uncharted territory, happy to do the work and would prefer to get it right the second time arround. Comments appreciated. Loud clunking will cost me a little now......or a lot later!
You will need a helper. Disconnect the shift cable while in the water and manually move the cable into gear. If you have to hold the cable by hand to keep it in gear, there is an adjustment issue in the stern drive. You ought to be able to move through all gears with the end of the cable in your hand.
Daar Michael, thanks a lot for these Very clear instructions. Do you perhaps have a video on the fuel injectors? I learned that 2 out of 8 cilinders of my OMC Cobra 5.0 EFI engine are not functioning and it might be the potentionally clogged injectors I was gold. Its not the sprak plugs or its cables, that had been ruled out already. I’d like to see whether I van clean or replace them myself. Much appeciated.
Very good video, easy to follow --- well done. I am looking at 4WINNS with OMC Cobra and 5.7 MerCruiser and found this video most informative and allows easy understanding of how the shift cable works and the importance to proper alignment. With all the horror stories of alignment leading to clutch gear failure, I feel much more comfortable about this potential purchase.
Thanks!
Do I still have to pull the stern apart if the shift cable sleeve pulled off by the engine? Could I just buy the adjust kit. Push/pull cable with pliers till I feel it fall into neutral and then use the alignment tool just on the engine end of cable or do I have to take stern drive off to put that other alignment tool on. FYI You are a God sent. I cant tell you how helpful and greatly detailed your videos are!
Chris, Thanks for your comments.! I got you covered. Before, I get into this, are you talking about part #104 from this link? www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/56078.cfm?mdl=VI9RCP
@@michaelromer2016 No I'm not talking about that end of the cable I'm talking about the other end of the shift cable that's up by bracket with the W Piece. That piece pulled out of the sleeve so Before I attach it back to the sleeve do I grab it would pliers and pull the cable into where would be sitting for neutral. Then slide the sleeve is far on to the cable as it will go then tight down those picture bolts on the end. After that can I use the alignment told to get it accurate again out half and to take the Stern drive off
I did order a cable just in case if I needed it but I'm thinking I should just do It and replace the cable anyway I just don't have any help. I'm a one man show here
I hear you about being a one-man show if you have someone nearby that can you can give some beer to maybe they'll be willing to help you out.
Great video! Thx! What would be the measurement centre to centre when the cable is in the upper tool after the lower is centred? Mercrusier is 6'.
I didnt read all the comments so maybe this has been mentioned, but there is a procedure in the video that is INCORRECT.
near the end of the vid where the lock nut is being tightened against the trunnion anchor.. it SHOULDNT BE!!!
aftersliding the threaded housing tube over the core and screwing it into the end of the cable, and BEFORE adjusting the trunnion, the lock nut should be locking the housing tube into the cable end to hold it securely so it doesnt allow movement that may wear out the threads inside the cable end.
the brass (or delrin) trunnion that anchors the cable housing in place should always be free to swivel on the threads of the stainless steel housing tube. this will insure everything stays securely in alignment and never wears out which would cause binding of the core wire... if the threads on the trunnion should ever wear out due to the stainless steel housing tube moving slightly within it, its a very much cheaper and quicker repair than another entire cable replacement and procedure.... DONT tighten the lock nut to the wrong piece!!!
ADDITIONALLY, the lock nut at the lower end of the cable that has been screwed on after the retainer, needs to be discarded.
the updated bulletins indicate that having the end of the core locked in place can cause binding and WILL cause unnecessary wear of the cable core if it cant rotate slightly as required during its travel back and forth....
I checked out some of my new videos and apparently I already fixed the first part you mentioned. I think this was one my first videos. As for the last part, I'm a sucker for using the old methodology, and I can't say I've kept up with all the bulletins. You definitely made a passionate comment with use of CAPS.
the caps was used to highlight the importance of the issues for those that may not know why they are having problems... if a person deviates from the latest TSB information, they wont have much better luck than what they had before working on it.. it was not, in any way meant to be a slam to the article, as its a relatively well produced informative video...
On the outdrive, specifically behind the prop, there are two seals. One is around the prop driveshaft, and the other I can see four bolts (I think) holding it (driveshaft) in. Do I have to remove the lower to change that inner seal? I noticed some oil leaking from behind the prop, it’s not coming from the first seal, it appears to be coming from the back seal.
Thanks again for all your great videos!
Andy E There are two prop seals (in most cases) near the prop. There is one where you mentioned that is leaking. Sadly the prop bearing housing assembly has to be removed or you will have water inside over time. I have a video on removing it with chains posted. Plus all those bolts you mentioned. Lower unit doesn't need to be removed.
Michael Romer I thought that’s what you were pulling out. I’m going to have to get it replaced soon. I just got the ESA bracket and cables all adjusted today. It runs smooth and shifts great now. I want to get it on the water to make sure it’s all good before tearing the seals out of the lower unit. Again, thank you for the great info and responses!
Not sure if u will read this but here goes, had a marina replace the bellows on my lower unit of my 5.7 mercruiser, since I got it back it doesn’t want to shift out of forward or reverse while engine is running, but when engine is off, shifts no problem, any ideas, lower unit issue or shifter cable problem?
Hi Michael I was watching your parts 2 of the OMC Cobra cable.Is there a part 1.I have water coming through the hose that the shift cable runs through.Is there a video on how to solve this problem.Let me know thanks, Your video so far is very helpful.
I bought a boat in Cleveland and brought it home . They said they put a new shift cable on for Ford and reverse one from the handle to the motor went from the motor to the drive. Neither one work how do I fix that? And is there an exhaust flapper that goes on these things because we had to pull the motor and put into water jackets, not water jackets freeze plugs in the back of the four-cylinder and there wasn’t one in there but there was just a rod in my buddy says that in the cobra you don’t need to replace them but is this true? Please let me know.
awesome vid! my omc cobra doesn't have that little nut at bottom of the Retainer with the 2 holes.. not sure why. what is a good set point for the back shift shoe? Just all the way back?
There was an article that came out from OMC in the 90s where they removed them and/or stopped using them. No issue. Please subscribe.
yes please ! make the video of the adjustment of the bracket / shifter assembly.
Part 1 is posted
There appears to be no part 2 to the esa adjustment video...
How would you assemble the outboard back together again when it trying to change the shift cable? Please help me to fix my boat. I opened the outboard engine and now can’t put it back together.
Take a look at my video series about shift cables/ESA. I offer a pretty nice walk through.
How are you suppose to put gasket sealer on a rotating assembly with out it freezing up the part from moving. But your vids helped me get back in the warer
The o rings ought to remain stationary in the gimbal bearing. If it was a rotating surface he would need a bearing on top of the gimbal bearing which isn’t the case they just use an O-ring.
Can I get your opinion on my boat please?? My boat is stuck in reverse. The dropped the lower unit down and the prop wasn’t stuck anymore until I put it back
One of the better videos I've seen mechanically detailed and quality. thanks. My grease zerk tube filler(upper right side). desinagrated (sp) any way fix?
The tube actually comes out really easy and can be replaced from the outside. Do you know if part of the tube broke off inside the gimbal housing assembly? $25 www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/56127.cfm?mdl=TMV29H
Michael Romer. Thanks much, yes , Right behind the outside zerk threads it broke. The tube is approximately 5 inches long. in a tight space. Cobra stern drive, inboard outboard. 5.7 engine.
Thank you, thank you, thank you... Yes, must have engine bracket/interrupter adjustment please... Can you please tell us the measurement distance on that adjustment tool (center to center).?
Video is posted.
Great video! I might dare to buy an OMC Cobra equipped boat.
Hi MIchael! At 1:45 of this video I have a question about the 5/16 brass nut that goes on the end of the cable. I just pulled my outdrive in prep for changing the shift cable, and noticed my drive does not have this nut. Is this normal? Looked at the parts diagram at Crowley and they show no nut for my rig / 502APRJVB/Ford 5.0. Thanks!
Ned Stroller I’ve heard other users mention the same thing. In theory it’s just for extra protection. Likely for vibration. The people who mentioned not having one don’t go back and add it.
@@michaelromer2016 REALLY appreciate your videos!!!! I am tackling an 87 SeaRay that is new to me. Tons of work, replaced the engine coupler, gimbal bearing, bellows, ignition refresh, starter (marine grade)..... After watching this I understand the geometry of the alignment and bought the tools. Questions for you: 1) I also don't have the retainer locking nut - can I use a nylon nut? Would like the security:) 2) You state putting the retainer about 1/2 way on the threads.... should I start there and then check the travel at the bracket end before calling it good?
I have 88 bayliner 5.0 with a omc cobra out drive. Was wondering where I can buy a shift cable and I will I know if it’s the right cable I am buying .. thanks
I have the same boat (88 bayliner, 5.0L w omc cobra out drive). Does anyone know what shift cable I should use? Part number? I don't have the original anymore :(
can u please show how to install the outdrive back on , and start up and fine adjust the shift cable with motor running
William Holdt I have a few more videos to most here in the next week. I'll have that video up next Friday.
That would be awesome.
Can you make a video showing how to adjust the bracket that the reverse and forward cables hook to thanks
I got part 1 posted. I'm getting to the reverse/forward videos. Make sure ESA is configured correctly first though.
Super video. I am not totally clear how to route the cable. It looks like yours passes between the steering gear and the transom.
Is the first adjustment tool that fits in the 2 bolt holes used to keep it in place so you can adjust it on the the engine side? or is the first adjustment tool used for something else?
joe ortega The first tool is designed to hold the cable where neutral would be on the cable. It's also designed to hold the cable in a fixed position while you tighten the engine side to the engine shift bracket. Without that tool, you will have to make drastic adjustments on the engine bracket. The tools are dirt cheap. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152203518503
Any recommendations I have 1989 5.7L OMC Cobra. When it runs for couple of minutes it shots up and hard to start I noticed no spark on the coil and replaced the but no start. If I let cool it then crank right up.
Thanks good kne waiting for the next one fine tuning
Hey Michael,
Thanks again for the video. I was adjusting my shift cable yesterday and noticed in the shop manual that they highly focused on the distance between the center of the shift pin hole to the edge of the brass cable fitting to be at 7 9/16 inches. Shouldn't we worry more about that length rather than the position of the shift cable trunnion (brass cylinder looking thing)? I bought the tools to do it but I came to a pause because I got a little confused. Once again, thanks for all the videos. I've pretty much watched all of them 5 times of more..haha
Great question. The answer to you question is here: th-cam.com/video/whGSfsGHEao/w-d-xo.html
Long story short, there are 5 videos worth of explanations to be exact.
Thanks for following the video series! Hope you like them!
Hello Michael, RE: 1992/93 OMC COBRA. I replaced the lower shift cable and have followed all the guides and based on the way it sounds, when I shift into forward, I can hear something that sounds like gears clunking as if the gears are not fully meshed/engaged. Reverse works fine. (this is a dry test, I will immerse after I get a response from you) My question. With the condition I have described could you tell me which way to adjust what trunnion? I can fiddle and fiddle but I was wondering if you could point me towards the most likely place to start? Help me Obi Wan- I don't want to pay a marine mechanic to do something I can.
Replacing the same cable would love other video please
Could you contact me please. Do u want my cell number or email I’m sure ur busy I just wanna know how to adjust the other cable from the motor to the throttle on the side of the boat
Part 1 of the video is posted.
Hi Michael,
At 9:16 you are showing two alignment tools, do you have maybe a skatch/drawing of them, with the exact dims?
Appreciate your help :)
One is a bell crank tool, the other is the shift cable alignment. I recommend buying both, they need to be rigid tools so I wouldn't recommend making one at home. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set?variant=3737795589
Appreciate your help, we have already ordered it :) :) ;)
Yeah shift interrupt would be great I have mine apart now
I'm going to put together a 5 part video on that bracket. Kind of a lot to getting that hooked up right.
Part 1 of your request is posted
Thanks for the great video. On that shift lever set screw, is that a new screw that the service manual demands, or did you reuse your old one? Did you not need a threadlocker to keep it in place?
yes id like to see a video on setting up the engine shifter bracket
Did you 3D print the tools yourself? If so, wouldn't happen to have files still?? Thanks for the videos, nice job.
Look on eBay for the parts. For about $70 you can get the shift cable kit that comes with both adjustment tools. It looks 3D printed but no need.
will 1 can with 4 oz be enough brp gasket sealing compound , install outdrive ? thank you
One 4 oz can is perfect for installing the stern drive. Here's another place to buy it: www.crowleymarine.com/parts/15896.cfm
Hey do u know what part# shift cable can be fix retainer can u tell what part# cable thank..
Jump out to crowleymarine.com
Thank
What would be the proper length for my lower shift cable? I have an omc cobra 4.3 1990.
If the cable moves and it’s not adjusted fully right when the drive goes back on is there a way to fix it without taking the drive off again
If it was adjusted properly at some point yes. You will still need the shift alignment tool though. You could in theory just measure it, but I'm encouraging people these days to buy the alignment tools. The tool will set the shift linkage perfectly to 7 - 9/16. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set?variant=3737795589
What you will do is put the stern drive in neutral. Confirm the prop free spins in the back. Then disconnect the shift linkage from the shift bracket. Use the longer of the two from the kit and set your shift length. Watch my ESA videos too as they help clarify this even better. It's a 5 part series.
Michael Romer adjusted the cable with the correct tool and at first it was shifting fine. But then it would not get any reverse even when I took the lower cable off and shifted it by hand all we can get is a clicking sound like it’s trying to get reverse
Oh so you have the shift cable off the engine bracket and you are manually moving the cable. If you can't get it into reverse by manually moving the cable by hand, the stern drive must be removed. Your shift height is wrong. It needs to be adjusted. I show how-to do that in part two of my ESA series.
How do I know if I have the correct shift cable? What length should it be?
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts
th-cam.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/w-d-xo.html
Michael romer i need info on how to adjust a 4.3 cobra new stern drive shift cable at the engine bracket please sir.
What gear should the shift selector be in, to set the 6.5 gage length
Hello my shift cable dident come with the cable ajuster tool for inside are you able to tell me the messurement for it ? Thanks in advance
Don't take a chance trying to measure it by hand. You can get close that way but it's best to get the tools. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set?variant=3737795589
Hi Michael. Thanks for the great videos. Would you happen to have the part number for the brass 5/16" nut for the lower shift cable? When I pulled my outdrive off i found that i did not have one on my assembly.
Thanks!
And the bolt holding the retainer on was very loose. (Bet you can guess I've been having shifting issues)
Joseph DeFrancesco have you checked the part breakdown on www.crowleymarine.com/ some don’t have the brass nut.
@@michaelromer2016 thanks!
Michael Romer
See my comment with the wording from the OMC technical bulletin. They added that nut in 1990 and in 1996 they suggested that it not be reinstalled. If someone does not have that nut I bet it is from a pre-1990 Model.
a common 5/16 10
-32 jam nut will work
Great video. Appreciate if you could show how to adjust the engine bracket as well. Keep up the good work :-)
Br Ar You got it. Let me work on that one. Should be this coming week.
Did you make a video on how to adjust the engine bracket if so where can I find it thanks for the videos
No video yet (as of 5/9/2018) I'm rebuilding another unit at the moment. Should have that done and then hopefully by this Sunday, I can make the bracket video.
Part 1 is posted
Michael Romer what is part one called
I see a discrepancy in your video.The last known OMC service bulletin (along with Stewart Hastings) calls for the retainer to be threaded all the way in until it stops at the end of the cable threads. You can back off less than one turn to allow it to line up with the shift guide bolt hole. The retainer nut is not to be used and simply discarded. Other than that.... good video.
Thanks, I love constructive feedback! More videos to come!
What is the part number or source where you purchased the replacement parts or kit
Start here: www.crowleymarine.com/parts.html Look under the transom mount
If you have a video for the engine bracket adjust it would be a great help
My omc shifts perfect forward, but in reverse the cut off switch gets hung up sputters for 5 seconds then kicks in reverse I don’t get it
Classic example of the cable being out of specifications-basically it is stretched or corroded. When you have the stern drive out, you will also have the opportunity to grease various surfaces and check the shifter height.
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for subscribing!
So my omc. If it’s in neutral I can shift into either gear perfectly fine. If I try to go from reverse to nuetral or forward to nuetral it is very hard. Have to really force it back to nuetral. Is this the cause of that? If not what might it be? Thank you in advance
1990 omc 4.3 cobra
I would like to see video on the engine bracket with shift cables
Cory, search my channel for ESA, it’s a 5 part series.
Thank you, I for one absolutely appreciate your videos!! I have spent countless hours searching and watching videos and always come back to your videos. Like everything in life things change or we make basic mistakes and for those of you who feel the need criticize this gentlemen after watching his efforts there is something called constructive criticism in which you actually add something beneficial for those of us looking for guidance, and then theirs something called just being a "Jack A$$" Keep up the great work Mr. Romer!
Now for my question! for clarification purposes the 5/16" nut on the out-drive side of the shift cable is 'No longer used" correct? and the lock nut on the motor end of shift cable locks down the shift cable at the end of cable housing sheathing? correct?
John thanks for your comments! The 5/16 is used because after about 5 years and really bad luck, the cable could turn around inside the sheath. It's unlikely but, I'd still use it. Think of it like insurance. And yes, the other end locks down the other side as well.
Thanks for the info and I apoligize to you and your followers for my reply, but if I took everything I watched on TH-cam as gospel... oh boy id be in big trouble so I always refer to multiple sources to compare notes.
As for my question, unfortunately the only reason I asked this is because I could not find my 5/16 nut during the reinstall anywhere? and after watching this video several times over and several hours of searching my shop(misc. bolts drawer, under the boat, engine compartment, Garbage, I even removed seats!!) I went to Crowley Marine catalog to order the part and its not listed there?
www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/55333.cfm?mdl=VZOG47 (see parts 22,98,99 no 5/16" nut)
I started reading the comments section here and came across Mr Pateys post regarding this (good example of constructive criticism) and the light came on and I realized that this cable had been replaced by previous owner and they must have known about the service bulletin. so my actual question should be do I need to get one if I do not have one now?
Thanks
John
John, the 1987 version for some reason didn't include the 5/16 nut, however if you check later versions, for example, 1991. You can actually find the nut that you're looking for, it was likely added as an insurance policy-- anyways it's about $6 here's the link www.crowleymarine.com/parts/11575.cfm
I'd install one.
this is flat out kicking my butt! im so invested in this project now there is no way I want to take it to a shop now!!I followed instructions. the manual and crowley Marine instructions! I was so sure I had it right but wont go into Fwd? a few things were different than your video, My shift rod is the basic screw in and out version and I adjusted it off the same locations as you did which is the same as the manual so hopefully the measuring points are the same? but it was a good 1/2" of difference from the prior position. I did purchase the correct tools including alignment tool.
Im going to adjust the bracket right now but Im wondering if I could get of an adjustment out of that or if I should just pull the out drive back off? could I have missed the shift rod aligning with the bell crank when I installed the outdrive? if i did would I even be able to get it into reverse?
I also ha
I'm replacing my shift cable now on OMC 5.0l and after I set the alignment tool on the outdrive to keep in neutral it doesn't line up on the engine side. It's like I'm running out of threads to move the trunnion and cant match it up.
Have the exact same problem
Johnny I ended up aligning the outdrive and installing it back on the transom then I went to the engine and pushed all cable slack back in which engages into gear and it gives u just enough to get 6.5 inches from trunnion to center hole and that ended up working. Good luck
Mario Garcia thanks man will get back to working on it after work
Please make the other video showing shifter cable adjustment
Michael my boat go forward but out reverse, when I making adjustments to the engine bracket It go reverse but not forward or lost of power going forward. I have a extra cobra out-drive and that dose the same thing. Is this the shift cable or I am not making the right adjustments to engine bracket? I played with it for several hours. I am interested in how to make the right adjustments on engine bracket video. I am interested in your opinion, can you please help thank you Robert.
Robert, I have an entire series of videos dedicated to this issue you are having. Please review these videos and let me know if you continue to have issues. Keep in mind this is a 5 part video series. th-cam.com/video/whGSfsGHEao/w-d-xo.html
Hey mike I just commented on my pesky shift cable the model and year of boat is a 1989 four winns 4.3 omc cobra
Can anybody help i have 7.4 yamaha outdrive shift into reverse but wont shift into foward foward cable kind tight but does move help be apreciated any ideas.
Johnny Santiago What year?
How about the attachment at the throttle lever? My reverse has detached just need to repair hopefully thx
Watch my ESA series ( 5 part) I go over all of that on those videos.
good
Thanks! Please hit that subscribe button!
1996 23 footer eurosport 454 yamaha out drive
So that model is similar in design to the OMC cobra/Volvo out drives. I have an ESA series that goes over how-to fix issues like you mentioned in your comments. Look for the 5 part video series, as they will help.
sweet, just bought a boat at a yard sale, precious owner said it would not shift into reverse, from everything ive seen looks like bad cable, boat and trailer and wakeboard rack only $100, thanks
You got a steal. I have a video that goes over just about anything that can go wrong to that boat. Do me a favor and please hit that subscribe button!
@@michaelromer2016 Update, THE only thing wring with the boat was the fuel pickup tube from the tank, it had disconected in the tank and was sucking air, installed a new tube and now runs great, shifts and all no problem
This all wrong. He doesn't have a clue!!
Thanks for your comments!
I don't know where you got your training but you made 3 major mistakes that I saw. 1 you never put sealer of any kind on an "O" ring or a moving shaft because you will lock it in place-- 2 the brass nut is for locking the threaded tube to the top of the cable housing 3-- and always use a flat washer next to a cotter pin so you don't rub threw it and brake it. This is basic mechanics 101. ROOKIE
Hello! I’ve never been trained, I just read the OMC manual. Please subscribe!
threw it = through it
brake it = break it
Rookie English mistakes. But you are good to point out the issues. Your comment still helps.
This video is totally incorrect. This guy doesn't have a clue what he is doing but acts like he does. That cobra would never shift correctly set up like that. He set the jig up all wrong and the nut he wasn't sure what to do with is used to position the jig.
100% correct, nothing works, boat is sunk. Try presenting a solution next time when you present your case.
You do not know what your talking about with the engine adj.
Robert Brown Thanks for the constructive feedback.
I would not follow this procedure.
The consensus doesn't agree with you.