My rule of thumb, if I need to ever borrow a tool, I return it clean and in the same of better shape then when I borrowed it! Now speaking of top quality brands I did not hear Master Craft 😂 When you had time on your hand during the Atlantic crossing and returned, you built a chicken coop, cleared land, build a garage (I call it a boat shed), a home, kitchen cabinets and the list goes on…oh and the WR650! I can’t imagine what you will build after this circumnavigation! Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and tips.
I have enjoyed all of your videos, and totally entranced by this project! I am feeling extremely tempted to try this project, but hesitate because of the skills and knowledge I perceive in your videos. And this most true with the hull and the fiberglass work. I admire your skills and drive, and I keep watching your videos and learning from you in the hopes I can gain the confidence to build my own "Wave Rover".....
All the skills I'm using are pretty easy to pick up. If I was starting from scratch skill wise, I would build some saw horses and an arched boat shed. By then you will be ready to tackle the strong back skill wise. Everything will fall into place with a bit of effort
Very good, I had a lot of work to get the fabric to accommodate the edge of the keel, I had to do it with 3 pieces, one side, the other and the edge separately, but it was still difficult. It would have been better to have done like you, first the fabric of the corner, which would be the edge, and then the faces. I learned one more! Good winds !.
I don't know why but for some reason this video really shows how small of a boat this is for such a large goal. I'm have full confidence in you and the design of the boat. She's a beautiful boat performance and reason in harmony. I guess if it's just you 21' is more than enough
Hi Alan it is looking really good, the scrape to fare technique is great saves on all the dust, and time too I imagine, also great to read comments about amine blush very informative. You sure make fibreglassing look like art.
Thanks Dan, I have been very fortunate to get the uptake that I have had. One never knows how things like this will work out when you initially launch them.
She's coming on very nicely! Interesting you're flipping it before the twin keels go on, they would seem to have their uses as a boat stand and be easier to install with gravity on your side. I'm guessing the weight is in situ rather than added later into hollow keels, but I'm sure all will be revealed at some point!
Thanks for the comment. The keels will go on last as they will, as you surmised, for a variety of reasons. One important one is the ease of getting in and out of the boat as I fit out the interior.
Wouldn’t it be sweet to have the boat mounted on a locking rotisserie. (Just don’t mention that to Mr. Speckles. 🐓) A good lead-in to the cliffhanger. A real boat turner so to speak. 🤣
While the term "fiberglassing" implies that the strength is in the 'glass. In reality, the strength comes from the combination of the 'glass and the epoxy (plastic). Correctly termed GRP - glass reinforced plastic. The fiberglass provides strength in tension and the epoxy provides strength in compression. Great work on the boat; can't wait to see it splash.
I have always used an old Red Devil paint scraper. I sharpen the edges with a file. Straight edge for the outside, and curved for the inside of my canoes. Scrape while the epoxy is still a little soft and it comes right off - saves a lot of sanding!
Just working on getting geared up to work on my fiberglass E bike fender that Im making probably wish I could watch the whole video before I start what I’m doing but ask him to listen to this at the same
Looking great, Alan! I can't see any white bubbles. I seem to always get those on large sections of roving, where I didn't get it to lay down smoothly on the surface. Well done.
Thank you my friend. I spend as much time planning and prep as I do laying the glass. If it wasn't for my team, things could easily get out of hand during these big lay ups (big by Wave Rover 650 standards).
I should invest in some white “coveralls” for my next project involving epoxy. Every epoxy project I’ve done, I’ve ruined a pair of pants and at least 2 shirts😂.
I appreciate your enthusiasm and work, I've been taught that if you apply epoxy, you should sand it before the next layer, have you done that in-between those two filler layers? Thanks
Isnt carbon , glass or even kevlar fibre more about tension st6rength? I would have thought compression and shear strength were more important for impact, especially at the bow.
Hello Sir. Can you explain why the difference in color on the sides of the Boat? Is the move fiber in some spots? Would Kevlar fiber help you more then Fiberglass? Yes it cost more but would the Boat be Stronger? Thanks for the learning!
In Part 1 I put bi axial FG only on the chines, and in this video it is just FG cloth, making it look different color wise. Kevlar would be stronger but the hull is strong enough as it is designed. Thanks for the question.
What a careful, skilled job of fiberglassing to make a super strong hull! Any concerns with working in such a small area with breathing while applying fresh resin? Thank you for your videos!
@@RoversAdventure It's such a pleasure to watch your boat take shape bit by bit. Just like your approach to tackling tough crossings, your approach to projects and building is an example of step by step doing careful work with joy.
I think that taking it step by step and using these videos as a guide it is very doable. Buy an extra couple of sheets of ply just to replace any mishaps that may happen, but everyone starts off as a novice at some point. We have kept the 650 simple in order to empower the average backyard builder.
I am currently building a generally considered harder to build boat a Leydon Paradox with no prior wood working skills. No single step is too hard just one bite at a time. It’s been a very educational and fulfilling experience so far.
I can see you are laying the different layers over one another but there doesn't appear to be much preparation between layers. Do you sand or prepare the old layer in any way before applying each new layer, or do you edit those boring bits of of the videos? I just wonder how you get a good physical and chemical bond between layers of hardened epoxy.
I am putting the second layer on before the epoxy has fully cured (it's harder than tacky but not hard enough to sand). This will give it a chemical bond.
Once you have used peel ply you will never go back. You wont have to do any prep before the second coat and you can use epoxy which does have amine in it. Also for about 25 bucks you really want to buy a set of scales and weigh your epoxy when mixing
When I built my "stich-and-glue" boat, I didn't use peal ply. If I build another one, I'm going to have plenty of peal ply. It probably would have saved me 100 hours or more. Live and learn.
@@RoversAdventure I think it would save a lot of work on the outside as well, but I suspect that ship has sailed... fairing is only work though. You look like you've got plenty of game left in you. : ) Thank you for showing us your build process.
@@jasonmcintosh2632 It should go pretty fast as it really is 2 flattish panels. Secondly, It took almost 4 week to get my peel ply after ordering (in part due to Christmas closures). Thirdly, I didn't order it at the beginning as I am on a pretty tight budget. I do have it now and will be using it in the future.
@@RoversAdventure I built a 18' fishing boat. It was the first time I'd ever fiber glassed and I didn't have anyone standing around telling me what to do, and I was a bit too proud to ask. The fairing compound I used was epoxy and "micro balloons". I put it on the hull and sanded it 7 times. It was an enormous amount of work, but I had more "game" in me back then. I had heard that you measure "finish quality" by the distance you have to stand away from the boat before it looks good. I had a 2 inch finish. It was baby-butt smooth. Two big lessons I learned: Don't mix your own fairing compound. That epoxy/balloon stuff I used worked great, but it was very hard to sand. Later I bought some 2 part "fairing compound" and the sanding was much easier. Second, the smoother you can make the surface in the first place, the easier the fairing will be. For me, fairing was well over half of the work. Anything you can to do reduce it will save you a lot of time. At some point you're going to be sick of building that boat, but maybe the TH-cam channel will keep you working on it. The less effort you spend on fairing, the more energy you'll have for the fun parts of the build. But I know you've already built a boat before and probably know all of this and more. Thank you for letting me share some old lessons. Fair winds.
@@jasonmcintosh2632 wise words my friend. Haven't hit the wall yet but I know what you are talking about. I would add that 95% is good enough, perfectionism is the death of many a project. In my younger days, I felt that it must always be perfect but the time and anxiety can take a toll on a fella and the project. Great comment, thanks for taking the time to share.
Tyvek suit but no respirator? Resin ‘catayzes’ in your lungs doing permanent damage. I love your videos & am a subscriber but this is irresponsible to show lamination without wearing appropriate respiration protection.
Can you supply a reference point on that as the quick research that I have done explains how epoxy resin has a very slow release of solvents and respirators aren't necessary. But I'm not a scientist.
@@RoversAdventure I have been laminating (glassing) surfboards for over 40 years. Trust me you do not want to inhale the chemicals in epoxy or polyester resin as these contain chemicals such as styrene (to name only 1 of the many toxic chemicals). I have lost 2 friends who laminated surfboards while not using a proper respirator to lung disease. Keep in mind you are inhaling a catalyzed vapor (liquid) that will soon 'kick' (harden). This vapor will harden in your lungs & respiratory system. Please wear a proper vapor respirator like the 3M 5301 with organic cartridges so we can enjoy WaveRover for years to come. Also when sanding the WaveRover post lamination fiberglass wear a respirator & not a dust mask. Hope this helps. Mahalo for your work & entertaining videos. Chris in Hawaii
@@RoversAdventure From West System 'SDS' sheet: RESPIRATORY PROTECTION GUIDELINES:................................... When ventilation cannot be made adequate enough to keep exposures below established limits, use a NIOSH approved respirator with an organic vapor cartridge, or organic vapor cartridge + P100 particulate filter, depending on specific workplace conditions. Consult with your respirator and cartridge supplier to ensure proper selection of respirator and cartridge based on ingredients listed in Section 3 and specific workplace conditions. Use and select a respirator according the guidelines established in OSHA 1910.134 or other applicable respiratory protection standard.
@@chrisgardner6677 I have been using the OV filters on my mask for some applications when I can't get enough ventilation for the last 6 weeks. Good point and thanks for sharing.
My rule of thumb, if I need to ever borrow a tool, I return it clean and in the same of better shape then when I borrowed it!
Now speaking of top quality brands I did not hear Master Craft 😂
When you had time on your hand during the Atlantic crossing and returned, you built a chicken coop, cleared land, build a garage (I call it a boat shed), a home, kitchen cabinets and the list goes on…oh and the WR650! I can’t imagine what you will build after this circumnavigation! Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and tips.
You made me laugh with the "master craft" comment.
The most important thing this series has reminded me is that the ants go marching one by one,
The hull is so very fair and true as evident by the way the cloth lays as you prep it for resin down the port side. Well Done Alan!
Thank you very much!
I have enjoyed all of your videos, and totally entranced by this project! I am feeling extremely tempted to try this project, but hesitate because of the skills and knowledge I perceive in your videos. And this most true with the hull and the fiberglass work. I admire your skills and drive, and I keep watching your videos and learning from you in the hopes I can gain the confidence to build my own "Wave Rover".....
All the skills I'm using are pretty easy to pick up. If I was starting from scratch skill wise, I would build some saw horses and an arched boat shed. By then you will be ready to tackle the strong back skill wise. Everything will fall into place with a bit of effort
That's a very strong hull, certainly on the well to over engineered side of the ledger, somewhere I like to be with my boats.
Great to have the help, many hands make light work and keep you motivated.
Good on Brian and Mrs. R.
Basically the entire hull was glassed over a weekend by the team. I would hate to try doing it alone.
Love the dedication to the cause of wave rover 2. Great to watch the progress
Best of luck
Much appreciated!
I'm building a 4 meter speedboat for myself
your videos help me a lot
thanks
Great to hear it.
Very good, I had a lot of work to get the fabric to accommodate the edge of the keel, I had to do it with 3 pieces, one side, the other and the edge separately, but it was still difficult. It would have been better to have done like you, first the fabric of the corner, which would be the edge, and then the faces. I learned one more! Good winds !.
Glad it helped!
I don't know why but for some reason this video really shows how small of a boat this is for such a large goal. I'm have full confidence in you and the design of the boat. She's a beautiful boat performance and reason in harmony. I guess if it's just you 21' is more than enough
The waterline length is the same for both the 650 and my old Contessa. But the 650 has greater usable volume due to the flat bottom and extra beam.
Hi Alan it is looking really good, the scrape to fare technique is great saves on all the dust, and time too I imagine, also great to read comments about amine blush very informative. You sure make fibreglassing look like art.
Very kind words Allan. The East System Epoxy doesn't suffer from amine blush like the West System, which was part of the reason that I went with it.
Luv'n the idea of that Benefactors Bulkhead! Best wishes from Massachusetts north shore.
Thanks Dan, I have been very fortunate to get the uptake that I have had. One never knows how things like this will work out when you initially launch them.
She's coming on very nicely! Interesting you're flipping it before the twin keels go on, they would seem to have their uses as a boat stand and be easier to install with gravity on your side. I'm guessing the weight is in situ rather than added later into hollow keels, but I'm sure all will be revealed at some point!
Thanks for the comment. The keels will go on last as they will, as you surmised, for a variety of reasons. One important one is the ease of getting in and out of the boat as I fit out the interior.
@@RoversAdventure Best till last - it's all in those angles!
Wouldn’t it be sweet to have the boat mounted on a locking rotisserie. (Just don’t mention that to Mr. Speckles. 🐓)
A good lead-in to the cliffhanger. A real boat turner so to speak. 🤣
You always make me smile my friend!
While the term "fiberglassing" implies that the strength is in the 'glass. In reality, the strength comes from the combination of the 'glass and the epoxy (plastic). Correctly termed GRP - glass reinforced plastic. The fiberglass provides strength in tension and the epoxy provides strength in compression.
Great work on the boat; can't wait to see it splash.
Quite right my friend.
Great video, thanks 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Good luck with the project I've built a 23 footer using the same technique Ifound the Hull was the easy bit the fitting out takes forever .
Very true Brian. I will be keeping it very basic as I want to get on the water as soon as possible.
Glad to see you can use a chisel to fair before epoxy fully cured. I'll have to remember that!
I have always used an old Red Devil paint scraper. I sharpen the edges with a file. Straight edge for the outside, and curved for the inside of my canoes. Scrape while the epoxy is still a little soft and it comes right off - saves a lot of sanding!
Yes, I have done the same. They are really easy to sharpen with a file.
Just working on getting geared up to work on my fiberglass E bike fender that Im making probably wish I could watch the whole video before I start what I’m doing but ask him to listen to this at the same
Good luck with the FG job. Don't forget to watch the full video at a later date, lol
Looking great, Alan! I can't see any white bubbles. I seem to always get those on large sections of roving, where I didn't get it to lay down smoothly on the surface. Well done.
Thank you my friend. I spend as much time planning and prep as I do laying the glass. If it wasn't for my team, things could easily get out of hand during these big lay ups (big by Wave Rover 650 standards).
Nice job. Do you need to rub resin down between coats? Cheers.
No, I'm applying the next coat before the first one cures fully.
I should invest in some white “coveralls” for my next project involving epoxy. Every epoxy project I’ve done, I’ve ruined a pair of pants and at least 2 shirts😂.
I ruined 2 pairs of pants and several shirts (Mrs R gets all my work shirts at Thrift stores) before getting the overalls, lol
I appreciate your enthusiasm and work, I've been taught that if you apply epoxy, you should sand it before the next layer, have you done that in-between those two filler layers? Thanks
No, I'm applying the next coat before the first one cures fully.
I know the Biaxial on the chines was 10oz (340gms) what cloth did you use on the sides, normal 6oz (200gms) cloth?. Cheers DB
The Bi axial was 18oz (600g/m) and the cloth was 10oz
Using carbon fiber on bow edge improves impact strength in combination with glass cloths
No doubt! Generally, the Bi axial is strong enough but I would be happy to use Kevlar if I had some laying about for sure
Isnt carbon , glass or even kevlar fibre more about tension st6rength? I would have thought compression and shear strength were more important for impact, especially at the bow.
@@richardstott7777 Good point.
Hi,did you sand before each time you add a layer of epoxy? Thanks
Hello Sir. Can you explain why the difference in color on the sides of the Boat? Is the move fiber in some spots? Would Kevlar fiber help you more then Fiberglass? Yes it cost more but would the Boat be Stronger? Thanks for the learning!
In Part 1 I put bi axial FG only on the chines, and in this video it is just FG cloth, making it look different color wise. Kevlar would be stronger but the hull is strong enough as it is designed. Thanks for the question.
Alan do you have a list of recommended reading material for prospective sailors?
Let me think on that. My initial reading a few decades ago was the Pardeys books and John Guzzwell.
What a great progress! One question: Was the additional epoxy just plain epoxy or thickened with some amount?
Keep it up!
Just plain epoxy (East System). At 20 C it stays pretty thin for about 20min then it starts getting a bit thick.
Algorithm Booster! ⛵
What a careful, skilled job of fiberglassing to make a super strong hull! Any concerns with working in such a small area with breathing while applying fresh resin? Thank you for your videos!
Great point, generally it isn't an issue but I may start wearing a respirator as it is a fairly small space as you noted. Cheers
@@RoversAdventure It's such a pleasure to watch your boat take shape bit by bit. Just like your approach to tackling tough crossings, your approach to projects and building is an example of step by step doing careful work with joy.
Dont you need peel ply for epoxy?
Not necessarily.
For someone that has never built a boat before but has the help of some handy friends how difficult is this?
I think that taking it step by step and using these videos as a guide it is very doable. Buy an extra couple of sheets of ply just to replace any mishaps that may happen, but everyone starts off as a novice at some point. We have kept the 650 simple in order to empower the average backyard builder.
I am currently building a generally considered harder to build boat a Leydon Paradox with no prior wood working skills.
No single step is too hard just one bite at a time. It’s been a very educational and fulfilling experience so far.
I can see you are laying the different layers over one another but there doesn't appear to be much preparation between layers. Do you sand or prepare the old layer in any way before applying each new layer, or do you edit those boring bits of of the videos? I just wonder how you get a good physical and chemical bond between layers of hardened epoxy.
I am putting the second layer on before the epoxy has fully cured (it's harder than tacky but not hard enough to sand). This will give it a chemical bond.
Alan is right!
A chemical bond will take place up to 12-18 hours after epoxy “goes off” no need to sand if done within that time period.
What type of keel goes on that
It will be getting Twin Keels (Bilge Keels)
Once you have used peel ply you will never go back. You wont have to do any prep before the second coat and you can use epoxy which does have amine in it. Also for about 25 bucks you really want to buy a set of scales and weigh your epoxy when mixing
Great Project!!!, I subscribe to your channel too!
Thanks and welcome aboard!
That is looking distinctly like a boat of some sort.
Thanks Jared, very soon you will see it turn right side up.
Sven Yrvind proved Fiberglas outer hull and carbon fiber inner hull superior impact resistance... combination of both tested better...
I'm sure that the TallyHo crew will be flattered with the references.
I don't get a chance to watch much TH-cam but I will look up TallyHo. I assume it has something to do with sailing and not fox hunting.
@@RoversAdventure Be careful Alan, Leo of the Tally-Ho restoration is addictive and you don't want to get distracted.
@@RoversAdventure Be careful with TallyHo, Leo will drag you down the wormhole of 100% is only just good enough!
When I built my "stich-and-glue" boat, I didn't use peal ply. If I build another one, I'm going to have plenty of peal ply. It probably would have saved me 100 hours or more. Live and learn.
Will be using Peel ply on the inside tabbing and the hull deck.
@@RoversAdventure I think it would save a lot of work on the outside as well, but I suspect that ship has sailed... fairing is only work though. You look like you've got plenty of game left in you. : ) Thank you for showing us your build process.
@@jasonmcintosh2632 It should go pretty fast as it really is 2 flattish panels. Secondly, It took almost 4 week to get my peel ply after ordering (in part due to Christmas closures). Thirdly, I didn't order it at the beginning as I am on a pretty tight budget. I do have it now and will be using it in the future.
@@RoversAdventure I built a 18' fishing boat. It was the first time I'd ever fiber glassed and I didn't have anyone standing around telling me what to do, and I was a bit too proud to ask. The fairing compound I used was epoxy and "micro balloons". I put it on the hull and sanded it 7 times. It was an enormous amount of work, but I had more "game" in me back then. I had heard that you measure "finish quality" by the distance you have to stand away from the boat before it looks good. I had a 2 inch finish. It was baby-butt smooth. Two big lessons I learned: Don't mix your own fairing compound. That epoxy/balloon stuff I used worked great, but it was very hard to sand. Later I bought some 2 part "fairing compound" and the sanding was much easier. Second, the smoother you can make the surface in the first place, the easier the fairing will be. For me, fairing was well over half of the work. Anything you can to do reduce it will save you a lot of time. At some point you're going to be sick of building that boat, but maybe the TH-cam channel will keep you working on it. The less effort you spend on fairing, the more energy you'll have for the fun parts of the build. But I know you've already built a boat before and probably know all of this and more. Thank you for letting me share some old lessons. Fair winds.
@@jasonmcintosh2632 wise words my friend. Haven't hit the wall yet but I know what you are talking about. I would add that 95% is good enough, perfectionism is the death of many a project. In my younger days, I felt that it must always be perfect but the time and anxiety can take a toll on a fella and the project. Great comment, thanks for taking the time to share.
Tyvek suit but no respirator? Resin ‘catayzes’ in your lungs doing permanent damage.
I love your videos & am a subscriber but this is irresponsible to show lamination without wearing appropriate respiration protection.
Can you supply a reference point on that as the quick research that I have done explains how epoxy resin has a very slow release of solvents and respirators aren't necessary. But I'm not a scientist.
@@RoversAdventure I have been laminating (glassing) surfboards for over 40 years. Trust me you do not want to inhale the chemicals in epoxy or polyester resin as these contain chemicals such as styrene (to name only 1 of the many toxic chemicals). I have lost 2 friends who laminated surfboards while not using a proper respirator to lung disease. Keep in mind you are inhaling a catalyzed vapor (liquid) that will soon 'kick' (harden). This vapor will harden in your lungs & respiratory system. Please wear a proper vapor respirator like the 3M 5301 with organic cartridges so we can enjoy WaveRover for years to come. Also when sanding the WaveRover post lamination fiberglass wear a respirator & not a dust mask. Hope this helps. Mahalo for your work & entertaining videos. Chris in Hawaii
@@RoversAdventure From West System 'SDS' sheet: RESPIRATORY PROTECTION GUIDELINES:................................... When ventilation cannot be made adequate enough to keep exposures
below established limits, use a NIOSH approved respirator with an organic vapor cartridge, or organic vapor cartridge + P100 particulate filter,
depending on specific workplace conditions. Consult with your respirator and cartridge supplier to ensure proper selection of respirator and
cartridge based on ingredients listed in Section 3 and specific workplace conditions. Use and select a respirator according the guidelines
established in OSHA 1910.134 or other applicable respiratory protection standard.
@@chrisgardner6677 I have been using the OV filters on my mask for some applications when I can't get enough ventilation for the last 6 weeks. Good point and thanks for sharing.
Crack on