Nice bit of fabrication but what I've been using is so ball bearings welded to a piece of round bar, drill the hole under size as you said the punch the hole to create a depression "relevant to size of insert" then when insert is installed then assembly it gathers the flare as it tightened and chokes it onto the insert, it makes a much stronger installation in thinner metals too !
👍 nice work and good video. You did not need to step drill. The correct way to use a drill bit is to go right to size. Some may step because they're afraid of cutting oversize but that can be harder on the bit.
Apply to monitize this channel at the soonest. You'll reach the qualifying minimum subs and views really quickly based on your stats so far. Excellent content and better than most starting out.
I tip for you who don't know, there are counter sunk rivnuts that ends up flush. Easiest way to use them is to drill the hole with a step drill to get a perfect hole with chamfer.
The parent material thickness on this project doesn’t fit within the minimum grip range of countersunk rivnuts for the thread diameter to match the factory hardware of the parts.
@motleymetals4057 yes it requires 1.5mm to grip good. Your tool could also be used on the mating part instead if one can't access the back of the plate with the insert like a thin walled profile. 👍
He would have a hard time competing. Tools like this are usually mass produced on a cnc. He would be better off prototyping or making one off parts with a manual lathe
If I need a flush rivnut I just use a countersunk one. It's a neat idea to use a standard rivnut and a dimple die but it's too much messing around when countersunk rivnuts are off the shelf, quick and easy to use.
There are a few companies selling them I just ended up needing one before I could get it shipped and as simple as it was it didn’t take long to machine so it was worth it.
@@motleymetals Yes, I guess it would be impossible to have them available for all thicknesses and type of rivnut. Generic won't work on all applications. I'll come back to your vid here when I need tips on a flush application.
Good question. There can be a drawing effect where it pulls material along the path of least resistance and if it draws it from the hole it could change the tolerances for the rivnut. By drilling to fit as a second operation you are sure to be within spec.
I don't get it ??? I appreciate the fact that one might want to countersink the rivenut somehow to compensate for the rivnut material rise. But isn't the whole premise of using rivnuts because you don't have access to the backside of the mounting surface to use a nut ...
@@artvuilleumier5702 this is to allow in this situation a single tool adjustment of the part at the racetrack and my customer is more likely to have a revnut tool and recents to make quick easy repairs then they are the ability to replace pem nuts or caged nuts.
Thank you. I especially appreciate the white board discussion that clearly identifies what it took to have excellent results. 👍👍😎👍👍
Nice bit of fabrication but what I've been using is so ball bearings welded to a piece of round bar, drill the hole under size as you said the punch the hole to create a depression "relevant to size of insert" then when insert is installed then assembly it gathers the flare as it tightened and chokes it onto the insert, it makes a much stronger installation in thinner metals too !
so a ball bearing ball? welded and then used to punch the hole. And it makes the rivnut flush as it averages the flare created?
THIS approach make sense especially since one uses rivnuts because of no access to place a nut on the backside ...
A great idea to start off with and then adapted to individual needs.
👍 nice work and good video.
You did not need to step drill. The correct way to use a drill bit is to go right to size. Some may step because they're afraid of cutting oversize but that can be harder on the bit.
Apply to monitize this channel at the soonest. You'll reach the qualifying minimum subs and views really quickly based on your stats so far. Excellent content and better than most starting out.
Thank you I appreciate it and the advise.
Sweet idea , now I just gotta convert from “ bananas” to older metric system. Thanks man.
Thanks yeah it took me a bit to convert to freedom decimals too 😂
Great idea. Thanks for sharing.
No problem hope it helps
I tip for you who don't know, there are counter sunk rivnuts that ends up flush. Easiest way to use them is to drill the hole with a step drill to get a perfect hole with chamfer.
The parent material thickness on this project doesn’t fit within the minimum grip range of countersunk rivnuts for the thread diameter to match the factory hardware of the parts.
@motleymetals4057 yes it requires 1.5mm to grip good. Your tool could also be used on the mating part instead if one can't access the back of the plate with the insert like a thin walled profile. 👍
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Nice work
Thank you I appreciate it looks like you’re doing some rad work too. I subscribed and can’t wait to see more
Bro! You need to make and sell those. I've seen those riv-nuts used but always thought that the lip would be a pain to because they sit proud.
There is a company that makes one but I am thinking of looking into having a batch of mine made
He would have a hard time competing. Tools like this are usually mass produced on a cnc. He would be better off prototyping or making one off parts with a manual lathe
If I need a flush rivnut I just use a countersunk one. It's a neat idea to use a standard rivnut and a dimple die but it's too much messing around when countersunk rivnuts are off the shelf, quick and easy to use.
The material thickness is less than minimum grip range on countersunk riv-nuts for the diameter bolt we need.
Very cool video
Thank you greatly appreciate it
Such a simple tool, you'd think this tool would be sold and available at fastener supply businesses but it's not.
There are a few companies selling them I just ended up needing one before I could get it shipped and as simple as it was it didn’t take long to machine so it was worth it.
@@motleymetals Yes, I guess it would be impossible to have them available for all thicknesses and type of rivnut. Generic won't work on all applications.
I'll come back to your vid here when I need tips on a flush application.
Thanks
Good video
Thank you
Why wouldn't you make the hole the correct size to start with?
Good question. There can be a drawing effect where it pulls material along the path of least resistance and if it draws it from the hole it could change the tolerances for the rivnut. By drilling to fit as a second operation you are sure to be within spec.
@@motleymetals Would've been nice to see what the hole was after drilling and after forming.
Not a bad tool but I would just weld a nut to the back of that sheet Instead of using that style insert
Whenever possible
I use weld nut quite often but most of this assembly is aluminum and may get some carbon fiber pieces as well.
Why not use a countersink riv nut?
Material thickness is too thin for the minimum grip of a countersink rivnut.
You could sell these.
I don't get it ??? I appreciate the fact that one might want to countersink the rivenut somehow to compensate for the rivnut material rise. But isn't the whole premise of using rivnuts because you don't have access to the backside of the mounting surface to use a nut ...
@@artvuilleumier5702 this is to allow in this situation a single tool adjustment of the part at the racetrack and my customer is more likely to have a revnut tool and recents to make quick easy repairs then they are the ability to replace pem nuts or caged nuts.
No good for blind holes though
No this is for a pre assembly on a part I’m fabricating that will be enclosed once assembled