Red Loctite is only rated up to 450 degrees. Gas blocks get up to 700 degrees. You need to use Rocksett on gas block screws. Rocksett is rated up to 1500 degrees. Red Loctite won’t last long under the extreme heat.
When hot, the red loctite gets gummy, which still prevents screw backout, you can use rocksett but what if it rains on your weapon or gets wet? (Breaks down the rocksett)
I purchased a faxon barrel, no dimpling what so ever ! I'd say a ok barrel, but this was a 9 inch , 300 blk , no dimpling at all ! Fact ! I made it work
I like gun building videos like this that are straight to the point, well laid-out, and they don't look like the videographer/editor is attempting to make another Mission Impossible or John Wick movie. Thanks, brother. 😎😎🇺🇸🇺🇸
I'm multiple builds in and just bought a jig for ALL the reasons you stated. My first build had no dimples and I had a borderline nightmare getting that gas block to stay put. GET A JIG!!!
Couldn't agree more... A dimpling jig was one of the 1st tools I bought when I got into building AR's and if something isn't working like it should after I put everything together I know without a doubt it's not the gas system giving me the problem... Why anyone would just wing it is kind of silly.
Great video. Thanks! I'm a little surprised you're using a relatively budget WEN drill press, but I honestly have only heard good things about WEN, personally. *shrug* I trust everything I've seen from this channel. Your advice holds up to scrutiny in my experience.
So glad I got my barrel dimples. I was having issues with my gas block moving and causing short strokes after a couple hundred rounds and finally got the barrel dimpled and used a tiny amount of blue lock tight and I haven’t had the issue anymore!
I watched a video where it said to not use red Loctite because red loctite can be softened by the application of heat (like a torch). Obviously the barrel gets very hot so… Seems to make sense to me
Hey boss could you please put one up in regards to properly staking a castle nut on the buffer tube. And also one on properly staking the gas key thanks
I would say stake the ncg if it isnt already but if you work the bit right you shouldnt need to unless it's a combat weapon why would you want to if you need to take it down later suddenly you have to hit back the changed metal you just staked on the castle nut...trust me it's a pain
@@justaregularguy3827 Castle nuts and end plates are cheap. I just counter-bore them out and replace them on the rare...RARE occasion where it is needed. The only time I have really 'needed' to was when I had a buffer retainer pin snap off due to a heavier 9mm buffer where I was Fckin with it and compressed it and released it into the pin. I think it was about a 10 oz buffer and had to replace the retainer pin which I did with a titanium one. Wasn't really a big issue.
First, big fans of SOLGW. They've got a well deserved reputation of making good things that last. I taper pin all my barrels, so this doesn't really apply to me, but there's nothing wrong with using an old gas block as a makeshift jig, especially if you're using a free float handguards for the build. This assumes you have a drill press at home. 1. Take the set screws out of the donor gas block. 2. Chuck it up in your drill press vise 3. Drill through the forward set screw hole, down past the gas block port, and all the way through the top of the gas block. 4. You now have an inexpensive jig that still has a set screw that works. 5. Align your jig on the barrel you want to dimple with the newly drilled hole centered around the gas port. Tighten down the appropriate set screw. 6. clamp down your jig in a drill press vise HARD. 7.Drill through the rearmost set screw hold into the barrel. 8. Less is more. The hole doesn't have to be very deep. 9. COMPLETELY AGREE ABOUT USING HAND DRILLS FOR ANYTHING. I bet SOLGW has seen more uncle Cletus specials than you can shake a stick at, and that's why he's making the points he made. There's a company called BRD engineering that makes jigs including taper pinning jigs. They CLAIM you can use hand drills to complete the process using their jigs. Just don't, folks. It's a recipe for disaster. You will do something to jack up your build.
Whoa ! At 2:30 of the video, that “dimple” looks pretty deep to me. I go about half that depth-or a little less. Before actual drilling I insert drill bit in the jig hole and put a piece of tape or depth collar on it about 3/32” above jig to know where to stop. Then compare check it for depth with a loose drill bit vs the other jig hole. Also available is a breakaway plastic alignment “dowel” or pin that you put in the barrel that slips into the gas block. Then slide the gas block over the hole, invert or roll the barrel 180 deg, and the pin will fall down into the gas block hole when aligned. At that point you put set screw in tight enough to mark or score the barrel for dimpling location. A cleaning rod can then be pushed down the barrel to break the pin in half. It comes out the end of the barrel in two pieces. Made by HD Industries. I believe Brownells has them too
I am literally staring at your company’s website every couple of mins waiting for the Soul Snatcher lower to come back in stock!! The wait is killing me!!!
Loctite? To remove a screw that has been loctited you apply heat. 30 rounds fired thru a rifle barrel and the barrel will burn skin.....and loosen Locktite. It seems to me that Rockset is much more heat resistant and useful for this purpose.
So... blue Loctite might as well be water? I'm debating just having a smith dimple a new barrel instead of paying for a jig that I only use once or twice, then misplace.
I’m replacing a no sight gas block which is staked. I going free float so my question is, is their a standard stake/pin hole? Wanna use the same pin hole
Hello. Thanks for the great video. I am in the process of building my first AR. I noticed that the barrel I bought was not dimpled. I didn't even know about this until I stumbled across a video the other day. I do not think I will try dimpling it myself. Since I only intend to build this one rifle, I don't see it being worth purchasing all the right equipment. I am thinking about contacting the barrel manufacturer and asking if I can send back the barrel and have them to do it for me. Or else, see if I can find a local weapon smith that can to it pretty cheaply. Any case, thanks for the tip. It's little things like this I am still finding out about.
Great video. My only question is why do some manufacturers tell you to not, and if you dimple you will void the warranty? It seems like there is no con and should not effect the integrity. Yet Aero is telling me not to. Thanks
Truly appreciate this video and the information that it provides. I did pick up the SLR rifleworks dimpling jig three or four months ago it works awesome!!! I know you said in the video to use red Loctite which I did when I dimpled my barrels. My question to you is have you ever used Rocksett threadlocker for the set screws on any of your gas blocks? I have heard good and bad things about using it just curious what your opinion would be ! And another question have you ever staked your set screws on your gas blocks and your opinion on that thanks.
I see a Shiner Bock. I usually add a second dimple by installing the gas block on the first dimple and then staking the second hole with a punch. I start small and work up to a 5/32 or 11/64, by hand. I do not have a drill press. Do not drill to deep, just widen the hole. go slow.
Why not just use a clamp on gas block if you don’t want to dimple the barrel? Install things the way they are designed to work. Clamp on style blocks work. Set screws require dimples however.
If the dimple is in the wrong spot you could take a small round file and make a trench through the dimple (assuming that it is spaced correctly for the gas port too) on the opposite side of the gas port. This is a lot of work but it's a way to save a barrel that's been, as you so eloquently put it, "Uncle Cletused".
@randy french you seriously lack in the comprehension part. Go back and watch again. And SOLGW knows what they they are doing. Taught by William Larson. Stfu
@randy french actually you are the one that doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Do you have a firearm company with multiple military and police contracts? Didn’t think so.
My 2 cents,. dimpling is nice, but not necessary in probably most situations. Although, I do have the jig and have dimpled many of my barrels, I have found since building uppers that once the rifle has only a few rounds through it, carbon will fill in around voids in the gas block and essentially fuse it on the barrel. If you have ever taken off a gas block on a used rifle, you will know what I mean. I have had to hammer them off. Also, it is dang near impossible to dimple a Nitrided barrel because it is so hard. A good way to align the gas block without dimpling is to use the jig and just place a Sharpie through the hole where you would drill and then you have the exact location of the set screw. Hold the gas block in place and then screw in the set screw and it will be exactly where it needs to be. I do use blue loctite to hold the set screw until I have fired the rifle enough to fuse the gas block on the barrel. This is my advice for any barrel under a handguard. However, if the gas block is on the outside of the handguard, dimpling and maybe even pinning might be helpful depending on how serious the use of your rifle is. I'm not against dimpling by any means, I just don't think it is critical in most situations.
Agreed, I can understand him, as a professional manufacturer, having this position. To him it is a minimal effort and can save him headaches and hits to his reputation should someone have an issue. As someone who makes my own stuff mostly for range use, I accept that there is a small chance the gas block could move, but with a properly torqued down and locktited cupped set screw, this is unlikely.
Hi Mike I do have a question, but this is about dot sights and scopes. If I took a rifle to the range, shot the scope or dot sight in so I hit every time the same place I would like. Would it be possible for me to "dismount" take it of the picatinny rail or what ever system I were using. And then refit the sight or dot sight after a long travel from A to B, and the rifle would still hit in the same spot as I aimed at like before. I do know I need to make sure that the scope/dot sight, is fitted in the same slots as before during the zeroing at the range the first time. Because if this is true then it should also be true for IR and laser sights.
When you mount and remount your sight, apply forward pressure as you tighten the QD mount. It stops the sight and mount from shifting under recoil, and it makes for more constancy when remounting your sight the next time. I bought a small cheap lazar and mounted it on the top of my rail on the rifle that I swap a regular scope and a night vision scope on. Before dismounting one of them I make sure the cross hairs and the Lazar dot are on the same spot at 50 yards. After I swap scopes I check that the crosshairs on the remount are also on the lazar dot at 50 yards. It's not a perfect system, but it assures that I mount the scopes in the correct slots. Often they line up very closely. If not, I remove the scope and apply more forward pressure when tightening the QD mounts again. I usually take a shot after that at 100 yards just to double check things. Sometimes I have to make an adjust, other times I don't. Either way, it cuts down on the shots it takes to align the remounted scope. This is in a hunting rifle and my typical shots are from 50 to 125 yards. Originally thought that I'd only have the lazar mounted for a few minutes while I swapped scopes. But it's so small I've taken to just leaving it on the rifle.
Its a dimple not a hole. basically you're 'nicking the surface for the set screw to grab onto and not rotate. That being said, Clamp style gas blocks are way better because they give you 360 degrees of force on the barrel, while all a set screw does is tighten on the opposite side of the gas block.
You seem to be forgetting that the dimple also physically locates the set screw ensuring proper alignment of the gas block with the gas port and preventing subsequent misalignment.
Instead of drilling, masking tape, measure off & mark the location for dimple then shoot a dent into the barrel with a 300bo sub at 5m _( remember your glasses & plugs, safety first)_
My brother's cousin's uncle's former roommate told me he does this every time and it works flawless. Been shootin .300blk to dimple since the 50's even. :)
I purchased a Daniel Defense barrel that is not dimpled and my local gunsmith won't do it. He says it is unnecessary. Can I send it in somewhere to get dimpled?
its not necessary, before it was a big deal ppl used to run non dimpled for thousands and thousands around with zero issues. Just tighten it down and use loctite
I bought a home built AR15 that was not ejecting spent round. When I pulled the low profile gas block I found two factory cross drilled slots that the builder just ran two common set screws down on top of. What do I do now, any suggestions?
Because different companies make their gas blocks with different distances between set screws. If you had two dimples out of the box, you would be limited to only using gas blocks from manufacturers that had that specific distance between set screws. He mentions this in the video; he says they only dimple the screw under the gas port because he doesn’t know what gas block the end user will use. BRD Engineering makes a hex jig that has the different screw distances on the various faces so you can dimple to the correct distance if you want to add the second dimple. It’s available from Brownell’s or from BRD’s website.
Recently got a Palmetto State & a Ruger, now I'm wondering if they dimple the barrel, or anything to make sure the gas block doesn't walk off. Anyone know for sure?
Clearly not melonite/nitride 4150 CMV barrel. Used the jig and cobalt bit from BRD. Barely made a pinpoint. Then used a dremel stone bit to break further through melonite. Still no perceptible metal being removed. Now shopping for drill press and maybe carbide bits. Much harder than you guys make it appear online.
What I've seen mentioned is that the spacing for the second hole is not standard, so if you ever use another block the second hole may not align. It could cause problems something like the video mentioned for a misaligned hole #1. Many seem to think the one hole with a dimple is sufficient with the second that just bites into the barrel with no dimple.
I have the jig but my Milwaukee and bosch cobalt drill bits barely scratch the surface of a nitrided barrel. Any suggestions on what bit to use? I also noticed you used oil. Is that necessary?
If you want a bomb proof rifle definitely drill and pin. Installed a Noveske chf barrel a few weeks back, thier drilled and pined gas blocks are the real deal.
on top of having the barrel dimpled and screws with red loctite, would you guys ever recommend staking the gas block set screws to keep them from coming out? thanks.
Alex Arias I have a Faxon barrel from AIM Surplus that is already drilled for a cross pin. I cross pin, red Loctite the set screws, *and* stake the screws. I have never had any issues and it’s cheap insurance to do it all.
I 3d printed a dimple jig for my BA barrel, sized the holes to use some drill bushings so the drill bit wouldn't walk
Thanks for telling it like it is. Straight forward and to the point. I’ll definitely invest in a jig
Red Loctite is only rated up to 450 degrees. Gas blocks get up to 700 degrees. You need to use Rocksett on gas block screws. Rocksett is rated up to 1500 degrees. Red Loctite won’t last long under the extreme heat.
How many rifles do you assemble and test each year, god you guys are smart!
@@alanmeyers3957you don't have to be a pro to be able to read...
When hot, the red loctite gets gummy, which still prevents screw backout, you can use rocksett but what if it rains on your weapon or gets wet? (Breaks down the rocksett)
I have soaked boiling water onto a Rocket muzzle for hours and it held…few rain drops won’t hurt it even if it could manage its way down onto your GB
Ice water helps get rocksett to break loose.
I like this guy, he lets if fly when talking.
Old video but a good video. Just what I needed to know.
I purchased a faxon barrel, no dimpling what so ever ! I'd say a ok barrel, but this was a 9 inch , 300 blk , no dimpling at all ! Fact ! I made it work
I like gun building videos like this that are straight to the point, well laid-out, and they don't look like the videographer/editor is attempting to make another Mission Impossible or John Wick movie. Thanks, brother. 😎😎🇺🇸🇺🇸
I'm multiple builds in and just bought a jig for ALL the reasons you stated. My first build had no dimples and I had a borderline nightmare getting that gas block to stay put. GET A JIG!!!
Couldn't agree more... A dimpling jig was one of the 1st tools I bought when I got into building AR's and if something isn't working like it should after I put everything together I know without a doubt it's not the gas system giving me the problem... Why anyone would just wing it is kind of silly.
Faxon really needs to start dimpling their barrels.
solution, use a good clamp on vice with rockset and never look back. Seals better as well
Great video. Thanks! I'm a little surprised you're using a relatively budget WEN drill press, but I honestly have only heard good things about WEN, personally. *shrug* I trust everything I've seen from this channel. Your advice holds up to scrutiny in my experience.
So glad I got my barrel dimples. I was having issues with my gas block moving and causing short strokes after a couple hundred rounds and finally got the barrel dimpled and used a tiny amount of blue lock tight and I haven’t had the issue anymore!
I watched a video where it said to not use red Loctite because red loctite can be softened by the application of heat (like a torch). Obviously the barrel gets very hot so… Seems to make sense to me
This is the first video I've seen on this that didn't feel like I was trying to watch a Transformers action scene. Thanks guys.
Is there s reason you use Threadlock 271 and not something with a higher temp rating like Rocksett?
The more I build the more I am glad I bought a dimpling jig. Money well spent.
Hey boss could you please put one up in regards to properly staking a castle nut on the buffer tube. And also one on properly staking the gas key thanks
I would say stake the ncg if it isnt already but if you work the bit right you shouldnt need to unless it's a combat weapon why would you want to if you need to take it down later suddenly you have to hit back the changed metal you just staked on the castle nut...trust me it's a pain
Forward controls design has a good video on their page
@@justaregularguy3827 Castle nuts and end plates are cheap. I just counter-bore them out and replace them on the rare...RARE occasion where it is needed. The only time I have really 'needed' to was when I had a buffer retainer pin snap off due to a heavier 9mm buffer where I was Fckin with it and compressed it and released it into the pin. I think it was about a 10 oz buffer and had to replace the retainer pin which I did with a titanium one. Wasn't really a big issue.
@@justaregularguy3827Jesus, you don’t hit back anything cleatus, you simply attach a castle nut wrench and turn counter clockwise!
First, big fans of SOLGW. They've got a well deserved reputation of making good things that last.
I taper pin all my barrels, so this doesn't really apply to me, but there's nothing wrong with using an old gas block as a makeshift jig, especially if you're using a free float handguards for the build.
This assumes you have a drill press at home.
1. Take the set screws out of the donor gas block.
2. Chuck it up in your drill press vise
3. Drill through the forward set screw hole, down past the gas block port, and all the way through the top of the gas block.
4. You now have an inexpensive jig that still has a set screw that works.
5. Align your jig on the barrel you want to dimple with the newly drilled hole centered around the gas port. Tighten down the appropriate set screw.
6. clamp down your jig in a drill press vise HARD.
7.Drill through the rearmost set screw hold into the barrel.
8. Less is more. The hole doesn't have to be very deep.
9. COMPLETELY AGREE ABOUT USING HAND DRILLS FOR ANYTHING. I bet SOLGW has seen more uncle Cletus specials than you can shake a stick at, and that's why he's making the points he made.
There's a company called BRD engineering that makes jigs including taper pinning jigs. They CLAIM you can use hand drills to complete the process using their jigs. Just don't, folks. It's a recipe for disaster. You will do something to jack up your build.
Whoa ! At 2:30 of the video, that “dimple” looks pretty deep to me. I go about half that depth-or a little less. Before actual drilling I insert drill bit in the jig hole and put a piece of tape or depth collar on it about 3/32” above jig to know where to stop. Then compare check it for depth with a loose drill bit vs the other jig hole. Also available is a breakaway plastic alignment “dowel” or pin that you put in the barrel that slips into the gas block. Then slide the gas block over the hole, invert or roll the barrel 180 deg, and the pin will fall down into the gas block hole when aligned. At that point you put set screw in tight enough to mark or score the barrel for dimpling location. A cleaning rod can then be pushed down the barrel to break the pin in half. It comes out the end of the barrel in two pieces. Made by HD Industries. I believe Brownells has them too
I use a Triarc easy pin gas block which I first dimple, shoot to confirm function, then pin once function is confirmed.
Did you use a drill press or hand drill to pin the gas block?
I am literally staring at your company’s website every couple of mins waiting for the Soul Snatcher lower to come back in stock!! The wait is killing me!!!
“Soul Snatcher” is also the nickname of his truck, considering how many times he got completely shitfaced and got behind the wheel of it.
Loctite? To remove a screw that has been loctited you apply heat. 30 rounds fired thru a rifle barrel and the barrel will burn skin.....and loosen Locktite. It seems to me that Rockset is much more heat resistant and useful for this purpose.
Red locktite is more than fine. It doesn’t get hot enough to remove it
rockset far better than red locktite.
So... blue Loctite might as well be water? I'm debating just having a smith dimple a new barrel instead of paying for a jig that I only use once or twice, then misplace.
I laugh every time you mention uncle Cletus, that's the name of my 1929 rat rod and its a perfect analogy.
SLR Rifleworks Jig for the WIN!
And if I buy a clamp on gas block ? For a pencil Faxon barrel
@SonsOfLibertyGunWorks:
May I Inquire as to WHAT the SET SCREW SPACING is on YOUR SOLGW .750 V2 Standard 4140 QPQ Gas Block Is?
Added 600 dimples. Almost finished. Unique look.
I’m replacing a no sight gas block which is staked. I going free float so my question is, is their a standard stake/pin hole? Wanna use the same pin hole
My Stag Arms barrel was not dimpled. Got a dimpling jig and GTG
I use DS Arms barrels they dimple there barrels for gas block alignment!!
Chone Martinez so do we.
Hello. Thanks for the great video. I am in the process of building my first AR. I noticed that the barrel I bought was not dimpled. I didn't even know about this until I stumbled across a video the other day. I do not think I will try dimpling it myself. Since I only intend to build this one rifle, I don't see it being worth purchasing all the right equipment. I am thinking about contacting the barrel manufacturer and asking if I can send back the barrel and have them to do it for me. Or else, see if I can find a local weapon smith that can to it pretty cheaply.
Any case, thanks for the tip. It's little things like this I am still finding out about.
Gas block jig is vital for anybody building any amount of AR's. 👍
You guys rule
Why have a jig and then not use depth Guage on the drill bit?
Clamp On gas block FTMFW.
And it doesn't take the integral f(x) by separation of parts to figure this out.
yeah its not that hard to align shit and it doesnt slide around unless your a pussy
i.e. 360 degrees of equal force beats 1 point of contact every time.
+1! I really don't understand why clamp-ons are not the standard.
Can you use a normal power drill and the dimple jig? I can't afford that tool you have.
Great video. My only question is why do some manufacturers tell you to not, and if you dimple you will void the warranty? It seems like there is no con and should not effect the integrity. Yet Aero is telling me not to. Thanks
Truly appreciate this video and the information that it provides. I did pick up the SLR rifleworks dimpling jig three or four months ago it works awesome!!! I know you said in the video to use red Loctite which I did when I dimpled my barrels. My question to you is have you ever used Rocksett threadlocker for the set screws on any of your gas blocks? I have heard good and bad things about using it just curious what your opinion would be ! And another question have you ever staked your set screws on your gas blocks and your opinion on that thanks.
Perfect video. Answered all of my questions, much appreciated!
Why no chf barrel?
Can you appropriately secure a FSB with only the dimple and not taper pins as well?
I’m not sure how secure it is, but the hole under the sling post is the perfect size for a 8-32 thread.
I use a Dez Tactical set screw FSB and it will stay put. The set screw closest to the shoulder is a little longer to go into the dimple.
Wow, that dimple looks deep compared to the one I did. Maybe I was too conservativative with the drill press.
Agreed, way to deep.
I see a Shiner Bock. I usually add a second dimple by installing the gas block on the first dimple and then staking the second hole with a punch. I start small and work up to a 5/32 or 11/64, by hand. I do not have a drill press. Do not drill to deep, just widen the hole. go slow.
Why not just use a clamp on gas block if you don’t want to dimple the barrel? Install things the way they are designed to work. Clamp on style blocks work. Set screws require dimples however.
What about rust?
Word. Thanks, man.
If the dimple is in the wrong spot you could take a small round file and make a trench through the dimple (assuming that it is spaced correctly for the gas port too) on the opposite side of the gas port. This is a lot of work but it's a way to save a barrel that's been, as you so eloquently put it, "Uncle Cletused".
Should you cold blue the dimple before installing gas block?
No chf barrels available?
Do you need to add a second dimple to a factory dimpled barrel? Or is just the one enough?
@randy french you seriously lack in the comprehension part.
Go back and watch again. And SOLGW knows what they they are doing. Taught by William Larson.
Stfu
@randy french actually you are the one that doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Do you have a firearm company with multiple military and police contracts? Didn’t think so.
My 2 cents,. dimpling is nice, but not necessary in probably most situations. Although, I do have the jig and have dimpled many of my barrels, I have found since building uppers that once the rifle has only a few rounds through it, carbon will fill in around voids in the gas block and essentially fuse it on the barrel. If you have ever taken off a gas block on a used rifle, you will know what I mean. I have had to hammer them off. Also, it is dang near impossible to dimple a Nitrided barrel because it is so hard. A good way to align the gas block without dimpling is to use the jig and just place a Sharpie through the hole where you would drill and then you have the exact location of the set screw. Hold the gas block in place and then screw in the set screw and it will be exactly where it needs to be. I do use blue loctite to hold the set screw until I have fired the rifle enough to fuse the gas block on the barrel. This is my advice for any barrel under a handguard. However, if the gas block is on the outside of the handguard, dimpling and maybe even pinning might be helpful depending on how serious the use of your rifle is. I'm not against dimpling by any means, I just don't think it is critical in most situations.
Agreed, I can understand him, as a professional manufacturer, having this position. To him it is a minimal effort and can save him headaches and hits to his reputation should someone have an issue. As someone who makes my own stuff mostly for range use, I accept that there is a small chance the gas block could move, but with a properly torqued down and locktited cupped set screw, this is unlikely.
Nope, I have had them loosen with use. I now dimple all my barrels with set screw gas blocks..
Thanks for the plain talk.
Your video made me pause - It's always easier to do it the right way first then try to unscrew the wrong choice. I ordered a jig today.
Hi Mike
I do have a question, but this is about dot sights and scopes.
If I took a rifle to the range, shot the scope or dot sight in so I hit every time the same place I would like. Would it be possible for me to "dismount" take it of the picatinny rail or what ever system I were using.
And then refit the sight or dot sight after a long travel from A to B, and the rifle would still hit in the same spot as I aimed at like before.
I do know I need to make sure that the scope/dot sight, is fitted in the same slots as before during the zeroing at the range the first time.
Because if this is true then it should also be true for IR and laser sights.
@@mail-qh2qc Thanks for the answer, I got everything which I needed.
When you mount and remount your sight, apply forward pressure as you tighten the QD mount. It stops the sight and mount from shifting under recoil, and it makes for more constancy when remounting your sight the next time.
I bought a small cheap lazar and mounted it on the top of my rail on the rifle that I swap a regular scope and a night vision scope on. Before dismounting one of them I make sure the cross hairs and the Lazar dot are on the same spot at 50 yards. After I swap scopes I check that the crosshairs on the remount are also on the lazar dot at 50 yards. It's not a perfect system, but it assures that I mount the scopes in the correct slots. Often they line up very closely. If not, I remove the scope and apply more forward pressure when tightening the QD mounts again. I usually take a shot after that at 100 yards just to double check things. Sometimes I have to make an adjust, other times I don't. Either way, it cuts down on the shots it takes to align the remounted scope.
This is in a hunting rifle and my typical shots are from 50 to 125 yards.
Originally thought that I'd only have the lazar mounted for a few minutes while I swapped scopes. But it's so small I've taken to just leaving it on the rifle.
Do all brands of gas blocks have a set screw in line with the gas port?
What size bit are you using? I have the KAK jig and they bit they provided wouldn't cut butter.
Awesome information. You guys are incredible
Is there an exact or minimum depth I should be drilling to?
Its a dimple not a hole. basically you're 'nicking the surface for the set screw to grab onto and not rotate. That being said, Clamp style gas blocks are way better because they give you 360 degrees of force on the barrel, while all a set screw does is tighten on the opposite side of the gas block.
You seem to be forgetting that the dimple also physically locates the set screw ensuring proper alignment of the gas block with the gas port and preventing subsequent misalignment.
Instead of drilling,
masking tape, measure off & mark the location for dimple
then shoot a dent into the barrel with a 300bo sub at 5m _( remember your glasses & plugs, safety first)_
My brother's cousin's uncle's former roommate told me he does this every time and it works flawless. Been shootin .300blk to dimple since the 50's even. :)
Great video. Thanks. New it was important
Brimstone gun smithing in camas wa told me they will not dimple barrels.
How deep should the dimple be, the dimple he did looked to be a little less then 1/8 inch deep which seems to be way to deep. Like balls deep.
Can a customer send their barrel to your company to have it dimples and their gas block pinned or would it be better to take it to a gunsmith
Drew Baglin you can definitely send it to us.
This is the kind of guy I’d like to learn from. No bullshit just straight to the point and in laments terms!!
You even quote what loctite you use!? How dare you!
Great video, thank you so much! Subbed
Excellent video!
Thanks!
I purchased a Daniel Defense barrel that is not dimpled and my local gunsmith won't do it. He says it is unnecessary. Can I send it in somewhere to get dimpled?
its not necessary, before it was a big deal ppl used to run non dimpled for thousands and thousands around with zero issues. Just tighten it down and use loctite
lol. I think I have seen the uncle Cletus video he’s talking about.
Great vidjeo!! +1 for clamp on blocks tho
What's your thoughts on thermal fitting?
Great information great video
This is why I get a high quality clamp style staked gas block. It's not going anywhere
I bought a home built AR15 that was not ejecting spent round. When I pulled the low profile gas block I found two factory cross drilled slots that the builder just ran two common set screws down on top of. What do I do now, any suggestions?
Good video . Thanks.
Thank you SOGLW, this answers at least one question I had about my M4-SML upper I ordered. Can’t wait to run it!
I still would rather have a gas block pinned.
Why do companies only add one dimple when gas blocks have two set screws?
Because different companies make their gas blocks with different distances between set screws. If you had two dimples out of the box, you would be limited to only using gas blocks from manufacturers that had that specific distance between set screws.
He mentions this in the video; he says they only dimple the screw under the gas port because he doesn’t know what gas block the end user will use. BRD Engineering makes a hex jig that has the different screw distances on the various faces so you can dimple to the correct distance if you want to add the second dimple. It’s available from Brownell’s or from BRD’s website.
Thanks for the video man!
Recently got a Palmetto State & a Ruger, now I'm wondering if they dimple the barrel, or anything to make sure the gas block doesn't walk off. Anyone know for sure?
PSA dimples yes.
Good thing I saw this video
Do I still have to dimple it
Pin or dimple it. I do both for fun....because I am weird.
If you have a clamp-style gas block, dimpling does nothing. You can still pin it though.
What brand barrel dimpling jig do you guys recommend?
Straight talk subscribed
Clearly not melonite/nitride 4150 CMV barrel. Used the jig and cobalt bit from BRD. Barely made a pinpoint. Then used a dremel stone bit to break further through melonite. Still no perceptible metal being removed. Now shopping for drill press and maybe carbide bits. Much harder than you guys make it appear online.
Why not dimple both screw holes ?
What I've seen mentioned is that the spacing for the second hole is not standard, so if you ever use another block the second hole may not align. It could cause problems something like the video mentioned for a misaligned hole #1. Many seem to think the one hole with a dimple is sufficient with the second that just bites into the barrel with no dimple.
I have the jig but my Milwaukee and bosch cobalt drill bits barely scratch the surface of a nitrided barrel. Any suggestions on what bit to use? I also noticed you used oil. Is that necessary?
Use dremel grind bit to sand off the surface finish, then cobalt drill can do the job easily
Ballistic Advantage has amazing barrels. It’s an option.
They cant seem to get the gas hole drilled inline with the extension pin. Seen over a dozen pics of misaligned gas holes
All barrels should be dimpled.
Makes sense
“Black & Decker fuckin drill” 💀 SUBBED!
Man... glad I bought the dewalt lol.
Why not pin every gas block on your barrels?
Laziness
Red loctite is removed using heat though.
Hell yeah great info
How much for that service?
Dimple as a minimum. Drilled and pinned is the way to go. I'm surprised to see companies offer clamp on styles
If you want a bomb proof rifle definitely drill and pin. Installed a Noveske chf barrel a few weeks back, thier drilled and pined gas blocks are the real deal.
on top of having the barrel dimpled and screws with red loctite, would you guys ever recommend staking the gas block set screws to keep them from coming out? thanks.
Alex Arias I have a Faxon barrel from AIM Surplus that is already drilled for a cross pin.
I cross pin, red Loctite the set screws, *and* stake the screws.
I have never had any issues and it’s cheap insurance to do it all.
The problem with the jigs is that they're made of soft metal and over time they get oval shaped if you don't use a drill press.
SLR has replaceable drill guides..
Gas Block Dimpling jig run $55 sounds like a good investment to me