You would be the perfect guy to make a video about all of the things you can do to a 1911 in order to make it shoot the best, have the best trigger pull, and all the other things that can be done to one. There are several "Jigs" available for the parts of a 1911. There are also a lot of tricks you can use to make one perform the best it can. This video on the seer is just one thing that can be done. I bought a new Springfield Armory 1911A1 Defender series pistol and it had a strange thing wrong with the trigger. Regardless of how hard I gripped the grip safety the trigger would catch on it and made the trigger very gritty and hard to use. I took a small amount of metal off the underside of the grip safety where it stops the trigger from being pulled. This solved the issue. Things like this could fill a large book and most likely make for several good vidoes.
Nice. I did 2 jobs with a Brownell jig, and each went from gritty and stiff to smooth and lighter. I then sold the jig for $5 less then I paid. Compare that to paying over $100 each to a gunsmith. Both have been shot 100s of round over the several years since accomplishing this easy task.
I like to tune my own 1911s, but you level it up man, nice job. IDK about your 'nay sayers' but when you can hear the the tune in the action, that is eFFing fantastic. Nay Sayers, Look Listen Learn, Don't be that Toxic person. Good Job JP
maybe run the stone perpendicular to the disks, that way there is more hardened steel acting as a guide. either way, love your videos, Jay. dont listen to the trolls, anyone working on a gun should have plenty of resources for learning, and your videos are among the best. You dont leave anything out, and you dont tout your experience as something more that it is. thank you, keep it up brother!
Thanks, Andrew. I appreciate it. As far as the stoning direction, I think it's important to run the stone parallel to the jig so as to guarantee (or make most likely) a perfectly radiused sear nose, whereas you'd be more likely to get a slight flat stoning at a perpendicular angle. Just my thoughts.
@@jayphilipwilliams I agree. Though stones don't leave much in terms of lines, you would want any lines in the direction of the sear travel. Stoning perpendicularly might not add to creep you could feel, but as a machinist I would agree with your direction of stoning.
I didn't know the TR jig had evolved into the varying quadrant type but I like the idea. I have the original Chuck Warner and the sear I had hoped to shape doesn't clear the top.
Little known fact, Jay, by the internet experts, Colt actually developed the radius shaped sear surface years ago. The issue was a fast and accurate way to apply it sears. Chuck Warner did that for the 1911.
I've watched couple of your videos. Great job, things are well explained and clear to understand. You should get commission from Harrisons , I just spent $200 on jig and other stuff. Keep going
That’s an interesting concept for the primary angle. It seems that for full engagement the hammer hook would need an equivalent radius. Then again with just a radiused sear hook it is now cramming or rolling on the hammer hook.
Jay, I love your videos and photography! I watched all your first build videos several times and just recently found your new ones. Seems like every time I watch one it costs me money! LOL- This time I just had to have that True Radius jig and mine arrived yesterday. It's amazing! My ole cheapo Rock Island came in at 2.3 pounds with no creep. My goal was 2 pounds but close enough. My Rock Island officer's model which I carry is not 3.5 pounds and also no creep. My wife's Rock Island GI model is awful, to be fixed quickly tomorrow thanks to your very good videos and that jig. Keep up the good work! We all appreciate it. Jim MillerS Saltillo, M
If you already have a general set of tools would the cost of the tools required to do a 1911 trigger job be less than paying someone to do a trigger job on your 1911?
Shouldn't be hard to do a comparison. Check with a local gunsmith for his price and figure out what tools you still need. However, I'd say if you do more than one, then you're really going to start saving money. Besides, if you're like me, you enjoy doing things yourself, so that always figures in for me.
@@jayphilipwilliams Thanks really enjoyed your video, if you feel comfortable answering what would be a starting ballpark price for your work and your general area?
Anyone who is too afraid to do a trigger job because they think it is dangerous definitely shouldn’t do their own trigger job, why?... because they are not wrong... it is dangerous. If on the other hand you are willing to learn how the 1911 ignition system works and understand where the thresholds of danger lie... those with just basic mechanical aptitude can get good at tuning their own 1911’s which IMHO is half the fun of owning a 1911.
Noticed while you were testing trigger pull that the grip safety appears to be deactivated??. Hopefully you only had it taped down, and not permanently deactivated. Really bad idea if so. Also, take care when using that trigger pull scale to have the rod parallel to the trigger. Pulling on any angle gives inconsistent and sometimes false readings. I use the same Lyman guage and have discovered that.
You don’t know if frame holes are lined up. Sear will set crooked. Seems like a device to really discover or bring a trigger to dimensions to work with in distance of the holes. We put all frames in the machine vise, set a long dial indicator and check for forward (bullseye ) movement or back move ment on the hammer with a shop made rod to move the trigger. We shoot for “0” movement of the hammer or .001 forward movement of the hammer. -.002 back is ok. Why not buy a gold standard. A hammer made correctly and use a Ron Power jig to set the trigger job. ALL angles are recorded with the trigger job to that pistol. Length of sear, hammer hook engagement, and fall degree. IF anything goes wrong cuz customer “boosted” his hammer, or polished it on leather it starts to fall you grab a sear, cut it to original specs and send it out. By the way ...... not getting into squaring/paralleling frame holes or oversized polished, hardened pins. I have way over thirty years on the 1911 triggers. This gage is very good to have around. Hold your trigger pull rod more in line with slide for repeatability. Move slow no jerky movement. Stay away from all battery hand held trigger pull stuff. Stay with it as it is becoming a lost art.
Yes Jay, thanks to your videos I’ve become the local 1911 trigger “expert”! I’ve done four others that were good but can’t wait to redo them with this new jig! I’d hate to ruin my reputation by leaking my source of information! LOL~. I’m not all that sharp on TH-cam so do you have a single link to get to all your later Videos? I find them scattered and don’t want to miss any. Thanks again and I really appreciate you replying. Jim
Jay...Fantastic set of videos. My goal would be a 3.5# trigger as I shoot bullseye matches. What could be done to add weight if this jig gave me a 3.25 for example? Add tension on the middle finger of the sear spring? Thank you
The are lots of complex interactions. This can contribute to a lighter trigger, but adjusting the triple spring does, too. This can reduce or eliminate creep and will contribute to a crisp break.
Learning so much from you about 1911s. I have 2 Kimbers. A 45ACP S.S Target II. / Aegis Elite Pro 9mm / Micro 9 TFX Pro . ALL 3 have incredible smooth crisp triggers. The Micro 9 has M☆ Carbo trigger Spring kit in it as well as a ultra smooth polish job on all trigger group contact spots. I'd love to build my own 1911 some day if I can buy a kit. Any suggestions on a Decent kit to purchase?
I don't really know anything about kits, but frankly, the beauty of building a 1911 is that you can pick and choose each part individually based on your needs, wants, and tastes...and on how much hand fitting you want to do vs. how easy you want the build to be. And for me, research and planning are half the fun.
@@jayphilipwilliams I may be old ( 61) but my desire to build a 1911 is burning inside me. I'll take your advice and do some more research before I make my 1st purchase. Thanks for keeping my dream a reality. 👍
Would you be better off using a fine file instead? I use a stone to sharpen tungsten carbide for my lathe and mill. It looks like you're putting a polish on the jig on top of removing ink, which will eventually cause inaccuracies. I know for a fact that a file won't remove hardened steel but a stone will.
I believe the way I'm using it is correct. I'd ask over on www.1911forum.com, though. There are some really smart guys over there. Maybe even the jig's inventor. Ask in the gunsmithing section.
Thanks for the reply. Do you like the square or flat one? I would think the triangular one would be helpful when doing hammer hooks.@@jayphilipwilliams
Nice job. I really don’t see all the concern about how many times you dry fire or racked the slide. That’s exactly how you train with a 1911.I do beg to differ on what you said about (doing a trigger job,it’s not like you’re going to kill someone) . You change the angle on the sear to much,you will have a accident waiting to happen. And I’m sure you would agree with me on that.Otherwise I enjoyed the video.
You can't really mess up the primary angle with this jig. The only thing you can mess up, I think, is taking too much off on the secondary, and initial testing of the trigger job (before firing) should reveal that.
I totally agree.My point was if you were to have a negative angle on the secondary,you could be asking for trouble.I think we’re both on the same page but maybe I’m not wording it right.
Fit a little bit, put it on the pistol try the function, if it's good stop, if not fit a little more, put on pistol try function, if good stop, if not fit some more. To prove we was right can be heard in our voice.
I'm a trigger snob. I love a great trigger. Unless it's a 1911 like a Wilson or Les Baer, etc., the trigger probably isn't all that great. Besides, I like fiddling with things. So, there's little doubt you could make your trigger better. However, I question how much difference it would really make in a self-defense situation, as your adrenaline would be through the roof. At least I believe that would be the case for me. Might matter to an expert. If it's not a self-defense gun, though, then that doesn't matter. You would just be tweaking it for enjoyment's sake (or maybe for helping you win a match). The decision, of course, lies with you. That's just my 2¢.
It's not really a matter of best. Any radius will give you the same trigger. You just start with the largest radius that will take metal off the sear nose. That way, you leave as much meat as possible on the sear for additional trigger jobs over the years. EDIT: Should be LARGEST radius, not smallest. Start big, and work your way down to smaller on subsequent trigger jobs.
Jay Philip Williams hey thank you. I just got done fitting my ed brown extended safety last night and it functions like it’s supposed to but it feels like it sticks a little bit when I flick it up. Think I need to take alittle more metal off?
I'm not an expert. I'd probably just take a close look to see if the safety is actually hitting (or rubbing against) the slide. If so, maybe file a bit off the top corner of the safety.
For the price of a crappy sear, and this useless jig, you could have bought a fully prepped sear from any number of manufacturers. They been making them for years. That crappy jig doesn't cut the secondary angle either.
No factory sear will ever give you the flexibility and ability to tune a sear to a specific action like doing your own custom trigger job. Also, maybe you should actually watch the video before making idiotic comments like "That crappy jig doesn't cut the secondary angle either." Additionally, I find it interesting that you think Ed Brown's sears are "crappy." Your ignorance truly knows no bounds.
@@jayphilipwilliamsOK you got me, I only watched about 75% of this video. Anyhoo, An ignorant idiot wouldn't have over twenty years experience working on 1911 pistols. If you want yo put yourself out there on TH-cam encouraging people to radius the hard angles on their Sears with a $120 jig, I'd suggest growing a thicker skin.
Also agree.....Wilson Combat and Harrison Design & Consulting come to mind. Drop in and go! Too much risk and liability modifying those angles and geometry. When the son of a bitch doubles and goes full auto on the range the expert gunsmith will look like a damn fool!
Also a 2# and some change trigger on a 1911 pistol is a accident and liability waiting to happen. You better never carry it for self defense is all I have to say. They will eat you alive in a courtroom. None of the big makers go below 3.5# to 4.0# for a very good reason!
@@JohnDoeEagle1 - Harrison Design & Consulting happens to sell a true radius sear. I happen to know a little bit about this jig and how it came about, the CAD drawings and concept that inspired it are on the same computer I am writing this comment on. Chuck Warner has a good amount of 1911 experience and providence, he is the one who put this tool on the market. Some top 1911 builders use this superior sear nose design, and it is perfectly safe. The trigger weight can be adjusted to what is required, within reason. If there is hammer lift or fall it's because of an out of spec hammer. If there is a trigger problem, it's not because the sear nose has the true radius shape. If you really understood the 1911 trigger, you would already know that.
The fact that youre such a detailed perfectionist and mild spoken, makes people learn and understand so clear. Thank you
I've had this same jig for a long time and have done many sears. Everyone is amazed at the trigger pull and feel.
You would be the perfect guy to make a video about all of the things you can do to a 1911 in order to make it shoot the best, have the best trigger pull, and all the other things that can be done to one. There are several "Jigs" available for the parts of a 1911. There are also a lot of tricks you can use to make one perform the best it can. This video on the seer is just one thing that can be done. I bought a new Springfield Armory 1911A1 Defender series pistol and it had a strange thing wrong with the trigger. Regardless of how hard I gripped the grip safety the trigger would catch on it and made the trigger very gritty and hard to use. I took a small amount of metal off the underside of the grip safety where it stops the trigger from being pulled. This solved the issue. Things like this could fill a large book and most likely make for several good vidoes.
This made sense, so I ordered one. I have a Springfield Armory TRP with a creepy trigger. The tool did the trick and now the trigger breaks clean.
You gotta love the 1911, JMB was pure genius! Good job mate!
Easily my favorite pistol of all time! He really was a genius!
Nice. I did 2 jobs with a Brownell jig, and each went from gritty and stiff to smooth and lighter. I then sold the jig for $5 less then I paid. Compare that to paying over $100 each to a gunsmith. Both have been shot 100s of round over the several years since accomplishing this easy task.
I like to tune my own 1911s, but you level it up man, nice job. IDK about your 'nay sayers' but when you can hear the the tune in the action, that is eFFing fantastic. Nay Sayers, Look Listen Learn, Don't be that Toxic person. Good Job JP
maybe run the stone perpendicular to the disks, that way there is more hardened steel acting as a guide. either way, love your videos, Jay. dont listen to the trolls, anyone working on a gun should have plenty of resources for learning, and your videos are among the best. You dont leave anything out, and you dont tout your experience as something more that it is. thank you, keep it up brother!
Thanks, Andrew. I appreciate it.
As far as the stoning direction, I think it's important to run the stone parallel to the jig so as to guarantee (or make most likely) a perfectly radiused sear nose, whereas you'd be more likely to get a slight flat stoning at a perpendicular angle. Just my thoughts.
@@jayphilipwilliams I agree. Though stones don't leave much in terms of lines, you would want any lines in the direction of the sear travel. Stoning perpendicularly might not add to creep you could feel, but as a machinist I would agree with your direction of stoning.
The jig comes with instructions. It doesn't pay to second guess them. Stoning perpendicular could introduce weird angles into the sear face.
Excellent video.
Very useful.
Thank you
Hurt feelings makes us to prove we are right. I learned a great tip, thank you.
I didn't know the TR jig had evolved into the varying quadrant type but I like the idea. I have the original Chuck Warner and the sear I had hoped to shape doesn't clear the top.
Little known fact, Jay, by the internet experts, Colt actually developed the radius shaped sear surface years ago. The issue was a fast and accurate way to apply it sears. Chuck Warner did that for the 1911.
These videos help me so much in learning 1911 maintenance and repairing, refitting "factory drop in parts" Thanks again.
Tried it today. It works great.
Turn your stone sideways you'll get a flatter surface across the whole jig it will wear more even too
I've watched couple of your videos. Great job, things are well explained and clear to understand. You should get commission from Harrisons , I just spent $200 on jig and other stuff. Keep going
Is that putting a rounded edge on the sear every sear job ive seen puts a square edge on the sear then they remove 1/3 of the back edge.
That’s an interesting concept for the primary angle. It seems that for full engagement the hammer hook would need an equivalent radius. Then again with just a radiused sear hook it is now cramming or rolling on the hammer hook.
Jay, I love your videos and photography! I watched all your first build videos several times and just recently found your new ones. Seems like every time I watch one it costs me money! LOL- This time I just had to have that True Radius jig and mine arrived yesterday. It's amazing! My ole cheapo Rock Island came in at 2.3 pounds with no creep. My goal was 2 pounds but close enough. My Rock Island officer's model which I carry is not 3.5 pounds and also no creep. My wife's Rock Island GI model is awful, to be fixed quickly tomorrow thanks to your very good videos and that jig. Keep up the good work! We all appreciate it.
Jim MillerS
Saltillo, M
Thanks, Jim! I sure appreciate it, and good work on your pistolas!
Gracias,exelente trabajo y muy buena explicacion del proceso,con mucha paciencia,entendi todo
Congratulaciones.
thats a good jig, your cut is parrelel to the mounting pin now.
If you already have a general set of tools would the cost of the tools required to do a 1911 trigger job be less than paying someone to do a trigger job on your 1911?
Shouldn't be hard to do a comparison. Check with a local gunsmith for his price and figure out what tools you still need. However, I'd say if you do more than one, then you're really going to start saving money. Besides, if you're like me, you enjoy doing things yourself, so that always figures in for me.
@@jayphilipwilliams Thanks really enjoyed your video, if you feel comfortable answering what would be a starting ballpark price for your work and your general area?
Depends on how many jobs you do. The more you do the cheaper they get.
Good vid Jay. Grateful for the notice in my e-mail.
Anyone who is too afraid to do a trigger job because they think it is dangerous definitely shouldn’t do their own trigger job, why?... because they are not wrong... it is dangerous. If on the other hand you are willing to learn how the 1911 ignition system works and understand where the thresholds of danger lie... those with just basic mechanical aptitude can get good at tuning their own 1911’s which IMHO is half the fun of owning a 1911.
Amen to that
So accurate!!
Noticed while you were testing trigger pull that the grip safety appears to be deactivated??.
Hopefully you only had it taped down, and not permanently deactivated.
Really bad idea if so.
Also, take care when using that trigger pull scale to have the rod parallel to the trigger. Pulling on any angle gives inconsistent and sometimes false readings.
I use the same Lyman guage and have discovered that.
Noticed that too,looked thru comments and found yours.
You don’t know if frame holes are lined up. Sear will set crooked. Seems like a device to really discover or bring a trigger to dimensions to work with in distance of the holes. We put all frames in the machine vise, set a long dial indicator and check for forward (bullseye ) movement or back move ment on the hammer with a shop made rod to move the trigger. We shoot for “0” movement of the hammer or .001 forward movement of the hammer. -.002 back is ok. Why not buy a gold standard. A hammer made correctly and use a Ron Power jig to set the trigger job. ALL angles are recorded with the trigger job to that pistol. Length of sear, hammer hook engagement, and fall degree. IF anything goes wrong cuz customer “boosted” his hammer, or polished it on leather it starts to fall you grab a sear, cut it to original specs and send it out. By the way ...... not getting into squaring/paralleling frame holes or oversized polished, hardened pins. I have way over thirty years on the 1911 triggers. This gage is very good to have around. Hold your trigger pull rod more in line with slide for repeatability. Move slow no jerky movement. Stay away from all battery hand held trigger pull stuff. Stay with it as it is becoming a lost art.
Indescribable magnificence !!! Masterpiece 👍👍👍👍👍
You should polish the sear and the hammer corespoinding surfaces it and make a case hardening. I guess you could lower the pull even more.
Yes Jay, thanks to your videos I’ve become the local 1911 trigger “expert”! I’ve done four others that were good but can’t wait to redo them with this new jig! I’d hate to ruin my reputation by leaking my source of information! LOL~. I’m not all that sharp on TH-cam so do you have a single link to get to all your later Videos? I find them scattered and don’t want to miss any.
Thanks again and I really appreciate you replying.
Jim
I do try to make playlists and group related videos together, so that might help.
Jay...Fantastic set of videos. My goal would be a 3.5# trigger as I shoot bullseye matches. What could be done to add weight if this jig gave me a 3.25 for example? Add tension on the middle finger of the sear spring? Thank you
i highly doubt you can tell the difference between 3.25 and 3.5lbs...
Great job bro!
Good video. Thank you.
That’s a great pull @ 2 .14 oz. perfect for the argent shooting.
Do you mean 2.14 lbs. instead ozs.? 2.14 oz. would be a hair trigger, not good, not safe, not controllable!
Well done video!
Awesome job.
Is this process to improve the lightness of the trigger?
The are lots of complex interactions. This can contribute to a lighter trigger, but adjusting the triple spring does, too. This can reduce or eliminate creep and will contribute to a crisp break.
just wondering......adding 3 mil tape doesn't change radius?
Learning so much from you about 1911s. I have 2 Kimbers. A 45ACP S.S Target II. / Aegis Elite Pro 9mm / Micro 9 TFX Pro . ALL 3 have incredible smooth crisp triggers. The Micro 9 has M☆ Carbo trigger Spring kit in it as well as a ultra smooth polish job on all trigger group contact spots. I'd love to build my own 1911 some day if I can buy a kit. Any suggestions on a Decent kit to purchase?
I don't really know anything about kits, but frankly, the beauty of building a 1911 is that you can pick and choose each part individually based on your needs, wants, and tastes...and on how much hand fitting you want to do vs. how easy you want the build to be. And for me, research and planning are half the fun.
@@jayphilipwilliams I may be old ( 61) but my desire to build a 1911 is burning inside me. I'll take your advice and do some more research before I make my 1st purchase. Thanks for keeping my dream a reality. 👍
Nice job very nice
Awsome vids Jay!!; Tanks for research/hard work!; God Bless!!🙏
interesting video. so what determines the length you want your sear? be it 404 or 403 etc?
Longest that gives a complete honing of the sear face.
Would you be better off using a fine file instead? I use a stone to sharpen tungsten carbide for my lathe and mill. It looks like you're putting a polish on the jig on top of removing ink, which will eventually cause inaccuracies. I know for a fact that a file won't remove hardened steel but a stone will.
I believe the way I'm using it is correct. I'd ask over on www.1911forum.com, though. There are some really smart guys over there. Maybe even the jig's inventor. Ask in the gunsmithing section.
Dude the winds going to blow and set that trigger off
How do you dress/polish the hammer hooks?
I use one of these:
www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/abrasives-polishing/norton-premium-hard-arkansas-stones/
Thanks for the reply. Do you like the square or flat one? I would think the triangular one would be helpful when doing hammer hooks.@@jayphilipwilliams
Nice video, where can I get a jig like that
shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-806-true-radius-pro-sear-stoning-jig
Crisp reset
With today's cnc machining sears could come shaped nicely.........
cnc wouldn't do a thing maybe edm, but nothing beats a hand polish if done right
Leave it stainless or silver. Put Hogue black G10 grips on it, 9/32" not 1/4" thick, a long trigger too!
Nice job. I really don’t see all the concern about how many times you dry fire or racked the slide. That’s exactly how you train with a 1911.I do beg to differ on what you said about (doing a trigger job,it’s not like you’re going to kill someone) . You change the angle on the sear to much,you will have a accident waiting to happen. And I’m sure you would agree with me on that.Otherwise I enjoyed the video.
You can't really mess up the primary angle with this jig. The only thing you can mess up, I think, is taking too much off on the secondary, and initial testing of the trigger job (before firing) should reveal that.
I totally agree.My point was if you were to have a negative angle on the secondary,you could be asking for trouble.I think we’re both on the same page but maybe I’m not wording it right.
Fit a little bit, put it on the pistol try the function, if it's good stop, if not fit a little more, put on pistol try function, if good stop, if not fit some more. To prove we was right can be heard in our voice.
should I do this to a new 1911
I'm a trigger snob. I love a great trigger. Unless it's a 1911 like a Wilson or Les Baer, etc., the trigger probably isn't all that great. Besides, I like fiddling with things. So, there's little doubt you could make your trigger better. However, I question how much difference it would really make in a self-defense situation, as your adrenaline would be through the roof. At least I believe that would be the case for me. Might matter to an expert. If it's not a self-defense gun, though, then that doesn't matter. You would just be tweaking it for enjoyment's sake (or maybe for helping you win a match).
The decision, of course, lies with you. That's just my 2¢.
What number is the best radius to use?
It's not really a matter of best. Any radius will give you the same trigger. You just start with the largest radius that will take metal off the sear nose. That way, you leave as much meat as possible on the sear for additional trigger jobs over the years.
EDIT: Should be LARGEST radius, not smallest. Start big, and work your way down to smaller on subsequent trigger jobs.
Jay Philip Williams hey thank you. I just got done fitting my ed brown extended safety last night and it functions like it’s supposed to but it feels like it sticks a little bit when I flick it up. Think I need to take alittle more metal off?
I'm not an expert. I'd probably just take a close look to see if the safety is actually hitting (or rubbing against) the slide. If so, maybe file a bit off the top corner of the safety.
Jay measures mm of trigger tankio
I can't find the true radius jig .
A quick search on Google gave me this:
www.harrisoncustom.com/hd-806-true-radius-pro-sear-stoning-jig
How much for jig and we’re ?
After you Google "true radius pro," you'll see the price.
Where can I buy one
Google "true radius pro."
How to you know when it’s ready
When the stone begins to remove the ink from the discs.
Are you making the end round or flat
The stone follows the curve of the discs, so it's rounded.
did u ever hear of a spot of oil
you must not have watched the video
A shame to paint that pretty stainless.
You do know we can't see thru your finger don't you dude? Your 5 minutes of trigger pulling is a waste for us. 😑
For the price of a crappy sear, and this useless jig, you could have bought a fully prepped sear from any number of manufacturers. They been making them for years. That crappy jig doesn't cut the secondary angle either.
No factory sear will ever give you the flexibility and ability to tune a sear to a specific action like doing your own custom trigger job. Also, maybe you should actually watch the video before making idiotic comments like "That crappy jig doesn't cut the secondary angle either." Additionally, I find it interesting that you think Ed Brown's sears are "crappy." Your ignorance truly knows no bounds.
@@jayphilipwilliamsOK you got me, I only watched about 75% of this video. Anyhoo, An ignorant idiot wouldn't have over twenty years experience working on 1911 pistols. If you want yo put yourself out there on TH-cam encouraging people to radius the hard angles on their Sears with a $120 jig, I'd suggest growing a thicker skin.
Also agree.....Wilson Combat and Harrison Design & Consulting come to mind. Drop in and go! Too much risk and liability modifying those angles and geometry. When the son of a bitch doubles and goes full auto on the range the expert gunsmith will look like a damn fool!
Also a 2# and some change trigger on a 1911 pistol is a accident and liability waiting to happen. You better never carry it for self defense is all I have to say. They will eat you alive in a courtroom. None of the big makers go below 3.5# to 4.0# for a very good reason!
@@JohnDoeEagle1 - Harrison Design & Consulting happens to sell a true radius sear. I happen to know a little bit about this jig and how it came about, the CAD drawings and concept that inspired it are on the same computer I am writing this comment on. Chuck Warner has a good amount of 1911 experience and providence, he is the one who put this tool on the market. Some top 1911 builders use this superior sear nose design, and it is perfectly safe. The trigger weight can be adjusted to what is required, within reason. If there is hammer lift or fall it's because of an out of spec hammer. If there is a trigger problem, it's not because the sear nose has the true radius shape. If you really understood the 1911 trigger, you would already know that.